Date: 2013-02-21T05:00:00+00:00

Interweave Crochet

inc

inc (2013)

Contents

Thursday, February 21, 2013

STRANDS

A couple of months ago, I found myself in a chilly coastal town with no hat. (I know, right? How could I not have a hat?) As it happens, there was a crafts fair set up on the town’s green. And...

CROCHETME.COM
discovering more online broomstick loops www.crochetme.com/spring_broomstick bruges lace www.crochetme.com/bruges_lace beaded ladder www.crochetme.com/beaded_ladder working into...

IN THE LOOP

Readers share in words and pictures their feedback about recent issues of Interweave Crochet. TRULY HOOKED FALL FIELDS CARDIGAN Your Fall 2012 issue was the very first crochet magazine I...

NEW & NOTABLE

Hook BEAD & fastener GIVE YOUR CROCHET JEWELRY THE RIGHT TOUCH Earthfaire beads make everything more beautiful. The metallic finishes add lovely dimensions to thread colors. The crystal...

BOOKS

Crochet Work: Learn Crochet Work Step-by-Step Therese de Dillmont, Plain Sight Publishing This guide to all things crochet is actually pieced together from one of the best-loved needlework...

YARN SPOTLIGHT: DON'T PLY FOR ME

Marcy Smith

Many of the yarns commonly used for crochet are plied—put simply, strands of fiber are twisted together to produce yarns. But another whole category of yarns is not plied. Most of these non-plied...

BACK TO BASICS: JEWELRY FASTENINGS

Sharon Zientara Fine Finishes for Crochet Jewelry This issue features a variety of lovely crocheted jewelry (see page 18). The crochet part will be fun and engaging, of course, but what about the part that...

FAST & FABULOUS: CHAMELEON CUFF

Pat Cooper

Rating: 1 Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 6¼" long, 1¾" wide before blank is inserted. YARN Lizbeth size 10 (100% Egyptian cotton; 122 yd [112 m]/⅞ oz [25 g]; LACE): #655 Wedgewood lt;...

GLORIANA BRACELET

Karen Hooton

This bracelet was inspired by the Gloriana, the lead barge in the Thames Diamond Jubilee Pageant honoring Queen Elizabeth II. The bracelet, with its shimmering bugle bead “logs,” actually took shape...

PROMISE NECKLACE

Kathryn White

The idea for this necklace woke the designer at 4:30 one morning. The twining chain and the single bead in the focal pendant promise an elegant finish to a simple outfit. Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Classic...

CELTIC NECKLACE

Jennifer E. Ryan Using simple crochet stitches and an intricate knot pattern, this Celtic necklace adds elegance to any outfit. Yarn: Nazli Gelin Garden size 10 (Universal Yarn). Page 22. ...

WHIMSY NECKLACE

Karen Hooton

This project can be worn at least three ways to suit any neckline and outfit (try it draped down the back with an open-back top or dress). Yarn: DMC Perlé Cotton size 5. Page 24. ...

BEYOND THE BASICS: CUSTOMIZING GLOVES

Karen Ratto-Whooley Crocheting gloves may seem intimidating. Having all those extra pieces to cover fingers makes gloves seem complicated. Actually, the construction is very simple. Crocheting gloves is very...

BASIC GLOVE RECIPE

Karen Ratto-Whooley Rating: 2 Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 8 (9, 10)" hand circumference. YARN The Loopy Ewe Solid Series (100% superwash merino; 2 oz/220 yd [201 m]/2 oz [56 g]; SUPERFINE): #30-52...

LACE GLOVE RECIPE

Karen Ratto-Whooley Rating: 2 Getting Started FINISHED SIZE 8 (9, 10)" hand circumference. YARN Aunt Lydia’s Bamboo Crochet Thread size 10 (100% bamboo from viscose; 150 yd [137 m]; LACE): 0001 white,...

UNDEFINED COWL

Janet Brani

A ripply tape yarn gives a scrumply interest to a lace stitch. The pattern is easy enough, but you will challenge yourself with altered stitch definition. Blocking transforms the lace into a go-to...

MOREOVER DUSTER

Kimberly K. McAlindin This quick and easy piece, created from a relatively small amount of yarn, is worn open as an accent. It moves beautifully as you walk, instantly transforming even the most basic outfit. Yarn:...

BLOOMSBURY TOP

Tammy Hildebrand Winner of the first place in fashion at the 2012 Crochet Guild of America design contest, this top is made up of join-as-you-go flower motifs worked in a color-change yarn. Smaller motifs fill the...

VANESSA SHELL

Robyn Chachula An addictive woven stitch, perfect for those new to Tunisian stitch, forms the main portion of this tee, with a lacy cluster stitch at the yoke. The pima silk gives delicious drape to this wardrobe...

YADDO CARDIGAN

Moon Eldridge

A conventional silhouette is softened by fine lace. Designed to be worn unbuttoned, this is a piece you will reach for again and again. Yarn: Zitron Filisilk (Skacel). Page 39. ...

EVERYDAY CROCHET: DOUBLE CROCHET

Kathryn Vercillo The inspiring crochet relationship between neighbors Jodie and Adrienne makes you wish you could be in Australia with them, crafting in the sunshine in Jodie’s garden and enjoying a “chat over a...

MELANIA DRESS

Cristina Mershon Melania loves to dance and swirl and turn in puffy-fluffy tutus. This dress is designed to be worn over a tutu, but it’s just as happy all by itself. Yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine. Page 55. ...

WILLOW DRESS

Laurinda Reddig Willow enjoys climbing rocks with her daddy as much as dressing up in pretty frocks. She can do both in this reversible intarsia A-line dress worked in half double crochet. The reversible technique...

BLOSSOM HAIR CLIPS

Karen Hooton

These blossoms, with or without picots, twinkle in a little girl’s hair just like the blooms that adorn the tresses of little garden fairies. Yarn: DMC Perlé Cotton sizes 8 and 12. Page 58. ...

CHARLOTTE DRESS

Kathy Merrick

Charlotte has long outgrown the fancy smocked dresses that her mother used to make for her, but the sentiment lives on in a wee pretty dress with trims and buttons. The gray and yellow combination...

PARENTHOOK: APRON STRINGS

Vickie Howell

This motherhood thing is a full-time gig. Regardless of your situation—stay at home or go to an office, with child care or without child care, traditional family or nontraditional family—moms are...

APRON STRINGS

Vickie Howell

Getting Started FINISHED SIZE About 16½" long. YARN Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (100% cotton; 80 yd [73 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; MEDIUM): Robin’s egg #13215 (A), 4 balls; hot green # 13712 (B), 2...

SWAN LAKE SHAWL

Lily Chin

Bruges, in Belgium, is known for its grand tradition of gorgeous bobbin lace. With Bruges crochet, an echo of bobbin lace, a long strip of double crochet is joined to other parts of the strip with...

PROMENADE SHAWL

Kathryn White

Motifs are joined as you go to shape this triangular shawl, with pearl-studded flowers strolling among the panels. A splendid edging finishes the elegant look. Yarn: Manos del Uruguay Serena...

SALSA SKIRT

Doris Chan

This vintage motif is based on a doily from the trousseau of the designer’s mother; Doris tells its story in the May-June 2011 issue of PieceWork, where it is called the Yokahama Mama motif. The...

TANGO TUNIC

Doris Chan

Inspired by a vintage thread doily, the motifs of the yoke on this seamless, stretchy tunic circle the shoulders and draw the eye to your face while providing a framework for the lace mesh body that...

CALYPSO CLUTCH

Brenda K. B. Anderson Dropped double treble stitches form this textured chevron pattern. A simple fabric lining hides the plastic canvas that gives this clutch its sleek and sturdy shape. Magnetic snaps keep the flap in...

CANCAN COLLAR

Lily Chin

The outrageous ruffles of this elegant collar are created with a ribbon yarn that is crocheted onto a smooth crochet base (it’s easier than it looks!). Wear this with everything all the time! Yarn:...

PROJECT DESIGNERS

BRENDA K. B. ANDERSON makes mascots during the day. She cooks, crochets, and belly dances at night. She lives in a little house in Saint Paul, Minnesota, with her awesome husband and their hairy...

GLOSSARY/OOPS

Abbreviations beg begin(s); beginning bet between blo back loop only CC contrasting color ch chain cm centimeter(s) cont continue(s); continuing dc ...

BACK PAGE

Marcy Smith

Crochet It Forward (see what's behind this beanie at CrochetMe.com)...

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STRANDS

A couple of months ago, I found myself in a chilly coastal town with no hat. (I know, right? How could I not have a hat?)

As it happens, there was a crafts fair set up on the town’s green. And there I found and purchased a crocheted hat. It’s pretty great—a beret made with three strands of yarn held together and crocheted with a big hook. Three people promptly stopped me on the street and asked where I got it.

Here’s the thing: I could have crocheted that hat in twenty minutes. But without yarn and a hook, I was just a person with a cold head.

A few weeks ago, I got to thinking about folks who, even if they had a yarn and hook, could not conjure up a hat. Some of these folks are people who will have a hat only if someone gives them a hat. So I set about turning a huge pile of yarn into beanies, berets, and slouches (you can get a peek at the project on the Back Page and read more about it at CrochetMe.com). And while I was crocheting those hats, I was thinking about you all—and this great skill you have that allows you to crochet a long string of yarn into a functional beanie that you could give to someone with a cold head.

Why am I writing about this now, when daffodils are poking their heads up out of the soil and the dogwood are putting out little buds?

Because, right now you’re gathering up cotton thread to make the beautiful crochet jewelry in Chain, Bead Picot (page 18); sassy non-plied yarn to make Doris Chan’s Tango Tunic top, Lily Chin’s fabulous Cancan Collar, or Janet Brani’s Undefined Cowl; and all manner of lightweight fibers to make one of the terrific girls’ dresses by Kathy Merrick, Cristina Mershon, and Laurinda Reddig (Secret Garden, page 48). And you’ll need space in your stash area to make way for the new yarn, right?

So you can gather up the wools of winter—all the stray fibers and partial balls—hold them together, and, using the biggest hook you have, crochet a beanie. Or two. Or as many as your stash allows. Each one will take you less than an hour. Then when cold weather returns, find homes for these beanies. All those cold heads will thank you.

Also in this issue, in a continued celebration of you, Kathryn Vercillo joins us with her new column: Everyday Crochet. She begins by talking with two Australian crocheters who teamed up to support each other through a sweater-making project. In future issues, she will talk with crocheters who, just like you, crochet from pure love of the craft.

Have a lovely spring. We’d love to see what you’re crocheting! Stop by CrochetMe.com to show us.

Best,

Marcy

crochet@interweave.com

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CROCHETME.COM

discovering more online

broomstick loops
www.crochetme.com/spring_broomstick

bruges lace
www.crochetme.com/bruges_lace

beaded ladder
www.crochetme.com/beaded_ladder

working into ribbon yarn
www.crochetme.com/ribbon_yarn

blindstitch
www.crochetme.com/blindstitch

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crochet-along

Undefined Cowl

facebook
www.facebook.com/CrochetMe

twitter
www.twitter.com/#!/CrochetMe

pinterest
www.pinterest.com/crochetmedaily

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DOWNLOAD FREE Patterns at crochetme.com

FEATURING: Wire & Bead Crochet Jewelry Patterns

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IN THE LOOP

Readers share in words and pictures their feedback about recent issues of Interweave Crochet.

TRULY HOOKED

FALL FIELDS CARDIGAN

Your Fall 2012 issue was the very first crochet magazine I ever purchased. I absolutely fell in love with the Fall Fields Cardigan by Beth Nielsen. I love to crochet, and I love thick wool sweaters, so this pattern provided the perfect inspiration. I used heavier-weight wool with a slightly larger hook, and followed the pattern for a smaller size. I couldn’t have asked for the fit to turn out better, and I now have a super-warm, handmade wool sweater! I also used my own handmade holly-wood buttons down the front for a personal touch. Thanks for publishing such a fantastic pattern. I can’t wait to try more from this issue!

Carla P.

Keats Island, British Columbia, Canada

Carla, your sweater is beautiful (as is your photo)! And we’re thrilled that ours is the first crochet magazine you’ve ever purchased! But you won’t have to buy one for another year, because we’re sending you a year’s subscription. Crochet on!

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RASTA ROSE CARDI

I’m your inspired reader from Finland, in Europe. I truly love your crochet magazine; we don’t have anything like it here. I’m glad that Interweave Crochet can be bought here, although it comes to the shops with a delay.

During the past few years I’ve crocheted several pieces from the magazine, but the best pattern I’ve ever seen was the Rasta Rose Cardi by Tammy Hildebrand in the Fall 2012 issue. The moment I saw it, I dove into my stash and found a suitable yarn (a thin sock yarn called Tico Tico by Novita, a Finnish brand) to crochet that beautiful cardi. (When the inspiration comes, I just have to start immediately!)

I loved crocheting the cardi; every piece was different, so it didn’t bore me at any time. I’ve been wearing it a lot, and I hear compliments about it all the time. More patterns like this, please! Thank you for your great magazine. Keep on doing the good work!

Anna-Maria M.

Järvenpää, Finland

We’re so happy that you enjoyed making the Rasta Rose Cardi! The solid color sure makes the design pop—it’s lovely. See page 30 for another enticing design by Tammy Hildebrand.

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BULLION BEACH BLANKET LOVE

Like your other readers, I loved the Bullion Beach Blanket (by Donna K. Lacey) in the Summer 2012 issue. I made it double-bed size and all in one color. I used 8-ply pure wool. I like the white bedspread showing through. The bullions were tricky at first, but I realized that if I kept my hands very relaxed, the loop came through easily.

I’m new to crochet and have taught myself lots of new things, including reading a pattern, thanks to you and the Internet. I am now addicted and spend every spare minute crocheting. I’m converting a lot of my friends to this great craft. Love your magazine.

Lyn J.

Leura Blue Mountains, New South Wales, Australia

Lyn, your monochromatic blanket is just beautiful and so elegant! We love it when readers make designs their own. We’re really impressed that you completed such a large project so quickly, especially since you are new to the craft!

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DRIFTWOOD HAT

Love your magazine and look forward to getting it. I made the Driftwood Cap (by Ellen K. Gormley) from the Fall 2008 magazine for my nieces and granddaughters this Christmas. I love how cozy it fits on your head. They loved it. I am working on another hat now, using sportweight yarn, for a friend’s infant granddaughter.

Thanks again for all the great patterns.

Lori S.

Fenton, Michigan

We love all the different versions of the Driftwood Cap that you made—the matching doll hat is super cute! We love it when back-issue patterns keep on giving pleasure. (PS Back issues are available in the CrochetMe shop online.)

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NEW & NOTABLE

Hook BEAD & fastener

GIVE YOUR CROCHET JEWELRY THE RIGHT TOUCH

Earthfaire beads make everything more beautiful. The metallic finishes add lovely dimensions to thread colors. The crystal beads catch and release shimmery light in a way that is sure to turn heads. Earthfaire’s online shop also offers a varied selection of threads, wire, kits, and yarn.

www.earthfaire.com

The Jewelry Shoppe offers a broad range of affordable jewelry fastenings. Use them on cardigans, shawls, handbags, hats, and beyond. Each fastening shown here (and many more) is available in pewter, nickel and gold finishes.

www.hobbylobby.com

Jewelry projects often require many sizes of thread and beads. This portable set of needles and threader from Sew-Ology is a compact way to be prepared for all your needs. The set includes thirty different needles in four different sizes: tapestry, sharps, embroidery, and betweens.

www.hobbylobby.com

Comfort grips on Tulip Etimo’s Thread Hooks make crochet jewelry–making the pleasure it should be! The in-line heads glide smoothly through beadholes and small stitches. The case makes the set portable for small stitching projects.

www.buy.caron.com

Thread Heaven Thread Conditioner & Protectant just looks like a funny little box—but really it’s a little bundle of salvation for threadwork. Run thread through the container before stitching; the reduction in friction and drag eases hand pain while working with small thread and steel hooks. The balm also prevents fraying and reduces fading. Dip the eye of a sewing needle in to make it easier to thread the needle and weave in ends. Jewelry worked with the treated thread is smoother on the skin and repels dampness.

www.threadheaven.com

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BOOKS

Crochet Work: Learn Crochet Work Step-by-Step Therese de Dillmont, Plain Sight Publishing

This guide to all things crochet is actually pieced together from one of the best-loved needlework guides of all time, The Encyclopedia of Needlework, originally published in 1886 with more than 600 pages covering every needlework technique imaginable. This compilation of every crochet technique from the original volume is an expansive yet portable guide to crochet, with clear illustrations and expert advice. Paperback, 160 pages, $12.99, ISBN 978-1-4621-1186-2.

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Geek Chic Crochet Nicki Trench, CICO Books

Geeks, rejoice! This colorful, cheeky book of crochet accessories and garments for guys and gals will help crocheters get in touch with their inner geek. Projects range from a classic Starsky & Hutch cardigan to a skinny tie. Each pattern has a skill-level recommendation for stitchers of all levels. Paperback, 128 pages, $21.95, ISBN 978-1-908862-05-1.

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Runway Crochet

Margaret Hubert, Creative Publishing

In her latest book, Margaret Hubert, Crochet Guild of America Hall of Fame inductee, seeks to harness the flood of crochet seen on the runway. She is joined by designers Doris Chan, Shelby Allaho, Shannon Mullett-Bowlsby, and Sharon Valencia to provide a twenty-two-piece collection of stylish garments and accessories to set fashionable hooks in motion. Hardcover, 128 pages, $24.95, ISBN 978-1-589237-49-0.

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Connect the Shapes Crochet Motifs Edie Eckman, Storey Publishing

Have you ever been turned topsy-turvy by an impressive piece composed of crochet motifs? This book demystifies how those shapes are put together. After opening with smart techniques for planning motif projects, the book transitions to motif patterns and joins for an abundance of shapes. Eleven great patterns, for a range of projects from home goods to garments, round out the lessons. Hardcover, 272 pages, $19.95, ISBN 978-1-60342-973-3.

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YARN SPOTLIGHT: DON'T PLY FOR ME

Marcy Smith

Many of the yarns commonly used for crochet are plied—put simply, strands of fiber are twisted together to produce yarns. But another whole category of yarns is not plied. Most of these non-plied yarns are tubes knitted by machine. Some are round, as tubes usually are, but some are flat because the fibers are so supple that they do not stay round. Some fall somewhere between round and flat, perhaps scrunching down with the stitches. Other non-plied yarns are railroad or ladder style, where loops of yarn are machine-chained at the sides and sometimes down the middle. These yarns generally produce fabrics with distinct stitches because the fibers don’t merge together as with plied yarns. Explore more non-plied yarns in this issue: Janet Brani works the crisp, undulating tape yarn Ripple (by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.) into the Undefined Cowl (page 30); Lily Chin transforms the sumptuously wide ribbon Opus (by Universal Yarn) into an elegant collar (page 72); and Doris Chan crochets Prism Yarn Tencel Tape into the delicious Tango Tunic (page 70).

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BACK TO BASICS: JEWELRY FASTENINGS

Sharon Zientara

Fine Finishes for Crochet Jewelry

This issue features a variety of lovely crocheted jewelry (see page 18). The crochet part will be fun and engaging, of course, but what about the part that involves a bit of jewelry skill? Well, it’s easier than it seems. Here’s a closer look at some of the closures, with tips for a professional finish as well as suggestions for other applications for the fastenings in your crochet projects.

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READY-MADE JEWELRY FASTENINGS

After crocheting, leave a tail about 8 inches long. Thread the tail on a needle and sew it in and out of one side of the fastening. Repeat on the other side. For added stability, dab a small amount of glue to secure the thread to the clasp and prevent raveling. Weave the remaining tail back and forth through the crocheted jewelry. Place a dab of sealant, such as Fray Check, on ends.

TIP: For added durability, before sewing on the fastener, string a bead or jump ring with soldered closure onto the tail. Sew into the loop on one side of the fastening and then back through the stopper bead or jump ring. Repeat several times to reinforce.

CELTIC NECKLACE, Page 19.

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DOUBLE CLOSURE

This closure allows you to join two buttons with a double loop. To work it, crochet a chain long enough to surround each button, with enough give to create a central closure. Pinch the chain in the middle and sew closed. The closure on the Whimsy Necklace includes a decorative button in the middle to cover the stitching. A sturdier option is to slip-stitch along the chain; when you reach the end, pinch the circle to create the double loops and slip-stitch through both sides of the loop at the center.

WHIMSY NECKLACE, Page 20.

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BUTTON, ATTACHED TO FABRIC BASE

For a button fastening, you can crochet a bit of fabric for attaching the button to allow more stability for the button and comfort against the skin. The Promise Necklace has a fancy shell-shaped base with a decorative picot at one end. For other jewelry with a button fastening, you could crochet a simple circle as a base. Work the casing in the same color as the project or a complementary color. The other end of the necklace has a loop that fits around the button.

PROMISE NECKLACE, Page 19.

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FAST & FABULOUS: CHAMELEON CUFF

Pat Cooper

Rating: 1

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

6¼" long, 1¾" wide before blank is inserted.

YARN

Lizbeth size 10 (100% Egyptian cotton; 122 yd [112 m]/⅞ oz [25 g]; LACE): #655 Wedgewood lt; 2 balls. Thread distributed by Handy Hands.

HOOK

Size 10 (1.3 mm) steel hook. Adjust hook sizes if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

1½" brass bracelet blank form; 30" strand gem chips or matching beads (see Notes); tapestry needle; large eye beading needle; sewing needle; sewing thread, 2 sew-on snaps (5 mm); st marker (m); small safety pins.

GAUGE

13 sts and 6 rows = 1" square in dc.

Notes

Beaded strip is worked in joined rnds. Size 6 seed beads or 4 mm round semiprecious beads may be substituted for gem chips. Sort gem chips, removing any really large chips or chips with a very thin edging along the hole.

Beads will sit at back of work; turn beads to outside to try piece on blank.

Stitch Guide

Beaded double crochet (bdc): Push bead up to hook, yo and insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps, yo draw through rem 2 lps.

Pattern

String about 65 beads onto thread with large eye beading needle.

Ch 11.

Rnd 1: Sc blo in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across to last ch, 3 sc in last ch, rotate work, sc in unused lp of next 8 ch, 3 sc in last ch, sl st in first st to join, place marker (pm) in join—22 sc. Move m up at end of each rnd.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in last st, sl st in first st to join—24 sc.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in each st around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—28 dc.

Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc in next st, [bdc (see Stitch Guide) in next dc, dc in next dc] 5 times, dc in each st to end, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join.

Rnd 5: Ch 3, [dc in next dc, bdc in next st] 6 times, dc in each st to end, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join.

Rnds 6–23: Rep last 2 rnds until piece is long enough to cover bracelet blank leaving ½" uncovered.

Snap flap:

Rnd 24: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join.

Rnd 25: Ch 1, sc2tog (see Glossary), sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog, sc to end, sl st in beg ch to join, turn—22 sts.

Row 26: Ch 1, sc in next 11 sts, turn—11 sc.

Row 27–28: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn—7 sts at end of Row 28.

Row 29–32: Ch 1, sc across, turn.

FINISHING

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Turn beads to outside. Block with bead side down on a soft surface. Place cover on cuff, sew on snaps.

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GLORIANA BRACELET

Karen Hooton

This bracelet was inspired by the Gloriana, the lead barge in the Thames Diamond Jubilee Pageant honoring Queen Elizabeth II. The bracelet, with its shimmering bugle bead “logs,” actually took shape as the designer watched the pageant, surrounded by compatriots waving little red-and-blue flags. Yarn: DMC Perlé Cotton size 8. Page 22.

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Rating: 3

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

About 7 (7½, 8)" wrist circumference. Sample shown measures 8".

YARN

Stretch Magic elastic jewelry thread 0.7 mm/.028 in clear. Available in the jewelry section of most craft stores. DMC Perlé Cotton size 8 (100% cotton; 87 yd [80 m]; LACE): #402 burnt peach (MC), #945 cool peach (CC); 1 ball each.

HOOK

Size 7 (1.65 mm) steel hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

60 (64, 68) 12 x 2 mm twisted bugle beads: 30 (32, 34) silver and 30 (32, 34) gold; one 28 g tube (or 120 [128, 136] count) 9° beads in clear gold; 2 bead threaders; yarn needle.

GAUGE

Not critical for this project.

Stitch Guide

Double needle ladder st: Using two bead threader needles, one on each end of thread, pass one needle through one or more beads from left to right and pass the other needle through the same beads from right to left. Cont adding beads by crisscrossing both needles through one bead at a time.

Slip up a bead (sub): After completing last st, slip a bead up to hook and complete next st.

Post cl st: [Yo, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st indicated, yo and pull up lp] 3 times (7 lps on hook), yo and draw through 6 lps (2 lps on hook), yo and draw through 2 lps.

Pattern

Center bead band:

Cut a 6-yd length of yarn or jewelry thread. Place a bead threader through first bugle bead (gold), leaving a 3-yd length to the right and the left of this bead. Each 3-yd length will have a threader at end. Place silver bead above first bead, then thread right hand threader towards left and the left hand threader towards the right through the center of the 2nd bead. Cont double needle ladder st (see Stitch Guide), alternating gold and silver beads until all beads have been threaded. Thread first bead again to form a bracelet, then cut and secure yarn or elastic. Bet each bead at each side is a strand that will be picked up and used as the base for the first rnd of crochet.

Edge:

With CC, string 60 (64, 68) 9º beads onto thread.

Rnd 1: (WS) Ch 1, rev sc (see Glossary) in sp bet each bead around, sl st in first rev sc to join, do not turn—60 (64, 68) rev sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, (rev sc, sub [see Stitch Guide]) in each st around, sl st in first rev sc to join, do not turn—60 (64, 68) rev sc.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, changing to MC on last st, sl st in first rev sc to join, turn.

Rnd 4: (RS) Ch 2, esc (see Glossary) in each st around, sl st in first esc to join, do not turn—60 (64, 68) esc.

Rnd 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, do not turn—60 (64, 68) dc.

Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as dc), post cl st (see Stitch Guide) around post of next dc, dc in next dc, post cl st around post of next dc; rep from around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join, turn—30 (32, 34) post cl sts, 30 (32, 34) dc.

Rnd 7: (WS) Ch 2, esc in each st around, sl st in first esc to join, changing to CC on last st, turn—60 (64, 68) esc. Fasten off MC.

Rnd 8: (RS) (Ch 3 [counts as dc], 2 dc, ch 3, sl st in top of last dc worked, dc) in first st, sk next 3 sts, (3 dc, ch 3, sl st in top of last dc worked, dc) in next st, sk next 3 sts; rep from around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—15 (16, 17) picots. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Turn bracelet to work opposite side.

Rep Rnds 1–8 for other side.

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PROMISE NECKLACE

Kathryn White

The idea for this necklace woke the designer at 4:30 one morning. The twining chain and the single bead in the focal pendant promise an elegant finish to a simple outfit. Yarn: Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread size 10 (Coats & Clark). Page 23.

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Rating: 3

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

18 (19½, 21)" long from button to buttonhole. Medallion measures 3" long and 1⅜" across.

YARN

Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread size 10 (100% mercerized cotton; 400 yd [365 m]/3 oz [85 g]; LACE): # 0226 natural (A), # 0021 linen (B); 1 ball each. Thread distributed by Coats & Clark.

HOOK

Size 7 (1.65 mm) steel hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

St markers (m); yarn needle; ⅜" button; ⅜" tear drop bead; needle that will fit through hole on bead; sewing or beading thread to sew bead to necklace.

GAUGE

Medallion Rnds 1–2 = 3" long and 1⅜" wide.

Notes

Rnd 2 of medallion is worked blo. Rnd 3 is worked in free lps of Rnd 1.

Stitch Guide

Triple picot (tr-picot): Ch 4, sl st in front lp and front strand at top of last st made, ch 5, sl st in same st, ch 4, sl st in same st.

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in last sc made.

Cluster (cl): Ch 3, yo 2 times, insert hook in same st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times; rep from 2 times, yo and draw through all rem lps on hook.

Pattern

NECKLACE

Medallion:

With A, ch 12, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as first dc), 26 dc in ring, ch 5, sl st in top of beg ch-2, place marker (pm) in 2nd dc on each side of ch-5, sl st in next 2 dc, turn, 13 dc in ch-5 sp, sk next 2 dc, sl st in next dc, turn—50 dc.

Rnd 2: (RS) Sl st blo (see Notes) of next dc, working blo, ch 1, sc in same st, picot (see Stitch Guide), [sc in next 2 dc, picot] 2 times, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, (dc, tr, tr-picot [see Stitch Guide], dc) in next dc, (dc, ch 1, sc) in next dc, sc in next dc, picot, [sc in next 2 dc, picot] 4 times, sc in next 5 sc, pm in 3rd sc of 5 sc just made, (sc, ch 1, dc) in next dc, (dc, tr, tr-picot, dc) in next dc, (dc, ch 1, sc) in next dc, sc in next 6 dc, pm in 3rd sc of 6 sc just made, picot, sc in next 2 dc, picot, sc in next dc, sl st in first sc to join—32 sc, 8 dc, 2 tr, 10 picot, 2 tr-picot. Fasten off.

Rnd 3: With RS facing and holding beg ch-12 lp at top, join B with sl st around post of marked dc on Rnd 1 to left of ch-5 sp, ch 1, sc around same st, working in free lps of Rnd 1 (see Notes), sc in first st of ch-5 sp, [ch 2, sc in next st] 5 times, ch 2, (sc, picot, sc) in next st, [ch 2, sc in next st] 6 times, sc around post of 2nd marked st on Rnd 1, ch 2, sc in 4th dc on Rnd 1, [ch 2, sc in next st] 9 times, ch 2, (sc, picot, sc) in next st, [ch 2, sc in next sc] 10 times, ch 2, sl st in first sc to join—34 ch-2 sps, 2 picot. Fasten off.

Cluster chain:

Side 1 (buttonhole): With RS facing and working behind Rnd 3, join A with sl st in marked st at top right of medallion on Rnd 2, cl (see Stitch Guide) in same sc, [turn, cl in top of previous cl] 21 (23, 25) times, ch 9, sl st in top of previous cl to form ring, (8 sc, picot, 7 sc) in ring, sl st in top of last cl to join. Fasten off.

Side 2 (button shell): Work same as Side 1 to ch-9, (ch 3, 3 tr, picot, 2 tr) in last cl, ch 3, sl st in same cl. Fasten off.

Cluster chain accent:

With RS facing join B with sl st in sc below cl join. Ch a length approx 2" longer than cl chain, not including buttonhole or button shell. Do not fasten off. Wrap chain evenly around cl chain allowing it to lay in the dips and valleys bet cl; add or undo ch sts at end to make it lay nicely. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to sew end to back side of cl chain. Rep for 2nd side.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Sew tear drop bead at top center of beg ch-12 ring of medallion. Sew button to button shell. Block.

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CELTIC NECKLACE

Jennifer E. Ryan

Using simple crochet stitches and an intricate knot pattern, this Celtic necklace adds elegance to any outfit. Yarn: Nazli Gelin Garden size 10 (Universal Yarn). Page 22.

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Rating: 1

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

Pendant = 2½" wide and tall. Total length (with clasp) = about 19".

YARN

Nazli Gelin Garden size 10 (100% Egyptian Giza mercerized cotton; 306 yd [280 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; LACE): #700-47 (darker green; A), #700-44 (lighter green; B), 1 ball each. Yarn distributed by Universal Yarn.

HOOK

Size 6 (1.8 mm) steel crochet hook.

NOTIONS

Necklace clasp; sewing needle; 5" x 5" foam block at least ½" thick (or 5" x 5" corkboard); 20 straight sewing pins; cotton pressing cloth.

GAUGE

9 sc = 1".

Notes

Necklace is made by crocheting two cords that are then woven in a knot pattern.

Necklace is steam blocked more than once to make it easier to work with.

For step-by-step photos and tips on how to weave the Celtic Knot, visit www.celticknotcrochet.blogspot.com

Pattern

CORD #1

With A, ch 220.

Working in bottom ridge lp of ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across—219 sc.

Fasten off.

CORD #2

With B, ch 194.

Working in bottom ridge lp of ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across—193 sc.

Fasten off.

BOTTOM PIECE #1 AND #2 (MAKE ONE WITH EACH COLOR)

Ch 11.

Working in bottom ridge lp of ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across—10 sc.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for assembly.

WEAVING CELTIC KNOT

Pin copy of diagram to foam block.

With RS facing, pin center of cord #1 to diagram at star.

Lay one end of cord down on path of knot using pins to keep it in place and follow the black arrows. When you reach the end of first path, let rem cord lay to side.

Rep with other end of cord and foll red arrows.

Note: Make sure cord passes correctly either over or under at each crossing.

Rep with cord #2 lying below first cord when beg at star.

Remove all pins and carefully adjust knot so that all sps are removed bet all cords. Remove knot from the block and turn over so WS is facing. Using a yarn needle and thread, secure all crossings. Using whipstitch (see Glossary) on back, sew all cords tog where they lay next to each other. With RS facing, sew all cords tog that lay next to each other on top of knot. Be careful to not let sewing sts show.

FINISHING

Add bottom pieces to bottom (see template) of knot and secure with sewing needle and thread.

Using a clean cotton pressing cloth, steam block necklace making sure 4 cord ends are laying flat coming out of top of woven knot.

Let dry/set overnight.

Criss-cross rem cord ends in an over and under pattern, pin at each crossing. Secure each crossing with thread and yarn needle on WS.

CHAIN SEGMENT (MAKE 2)

With A, leaving a long yarn tail at beg, ch 25. Fasten off leaving a 12" tail for attaching clasp. With yarn needle and RS of ch facing, secure one end of one ch segment to end of one side of necklace. Rep for 2nd ch segment.

Using a cotton pressing cloth and steam iron on a cotton setting, steam block necklace. Let cool and dry.

With yarn needle, secure necklace clasp with double knot to both ch segments. Weave yarn tail through ch. Optional: Put a dab of white glue on knot connecting ch section to clasp and let dry for extra security.

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WHIMSY NECKLACE

Karen Hooton

This project can be worn at least three ways to suit any neckline and outfit (try it draped down the back with an open-back top or dress). Yarn: DMC Perlé Cotton size 5. Page 24.

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Rating: 2

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

26½” before twist; 23” after twist.

YARN

DMC Cotton Perlé size 5 (100% cotton; 49 yd [45 m]/½ oz [10 g]; SUPERFINE): blanc, 2 balls.

HOOK

Size 3.25 mm.

NOTIONS

Size 30 broomstick tool; 2 shank buttons for closure; yarn needle.

GAUGE
is not critical for this pattern.

Notes

See photos to assist with edge instructions. Photos are worked at a looser gauge for illustration purposes.

Stitch Guide

Broomstick patt:

Row 1: (WS) Sl last lp on hook onto broomstick tool, [pull up long lp in blo of next st, sl lp onto broomstick tool] 11 times, turn—12 lps.

Row 2: (RS) Insert hook under first 6 lps, ch 1, 6 sc in same sp, insert hook under next 6 lps, ch 1, 6 sc in same sp, turn—2 clusters.

Row 3: Sl last lp on hook onto broomstick tool, sk first sc, [pull up long lp in next st, sl lp onto broomstick tool] 11 times, turn—12 lps.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Pattern

NECKLACE (MAKE 2)

Set-up row: Ch 11, sl st in 6th ch from hook (buttonhole), ch 6, turn. Check that button fits though buttonhole before proceeding.

Broomstick section:

Row 1: (WS) Work Row 1 of broomstick patt (see Stitch Guide), pulling up lp in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, including base of buttonhole—12 lps.

Rows 2–4: Work Rows 2–4 of broomstick patt. Rep Rows 3–4 of broomstick patt until 24 rows of clusters completed, then rep Row 3.

Next cluster row: Insert hook under first 6 lps, ch 1, 6 sc in same sp, ch 5, sl st in 6th sc of first cluster (buttonhole), insert hook under next 6 lps, ch 1, 6 sc in same sp, do not turn. Do not fasten off.

Twisting edge:

Rotate to work down long side of clusters toward first cluster.

Insert hook under nearest 4 strands on next broomstick row-end, work 6 sc around strands, sc in first sc worked on adjacent cluster to anchor twist.

Rep for each cluster to set-up row. Sc in first ch of set-up row.

Opposite side:

Insert hook bet next pair of clusters (through center space), keeping yarn on top, insert hook under 4 strands of unworked cluster, work 6 sc around strands.

Rep for each cluster to last 2 sc at top, sc in next sc. Fasten off.

CLOSURE

Ch 30, sl st through first and 15th ch to form double buttonhole. Wrap tail around center and tuck in end. If desired, sew small additional button to center of closure.

FINISHING

Holding necklace by buttonholes, gently pull to straighten work. Weave in ends. Sew button to one end of each strand. Thread buttons through buttonholes of opposite strand, then loop closure over each button to fasten.

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BEYOND THE BASICS: CUSTOMIZING GLOVES

Karen Ratto-Whooley

Crocheting gloves may seem intimidating. Having all those extra pieces to cover fingers makes gloves seem complicated. Actually, the construction is very simple.

Crocheting gloves is very similar to crocheting mittens (see “Crochet Great Mittens!” in the Winter 2013 issue of Interweave Crochet). The main difference is separating the fingers instead of creating a tapered tip that encloses all of them together.

Selecting yarn

To crochet gloves that allow more use of your fingers, select a yarn that is no thicker than fingering weight. Heavier yarns will reduce your range of motion. If you want to make gloves primarily for extreme warmth and finger movement isn’t important, DK or sportweight would also work. Worsted weight or thicker will create gloves that are too dense.

For warmth, select wool, alpaca, or any other animal fiber. Acrylic really isn’t meant to keep hands warm. For classic lacy gloves (think Mad Men style, see page 30), cotton, bamboo, or silk thread work beautifully.

Understanding the parts of a glove

1. The Cuff—This part sits right below your hand. It may be patterned or ribbed. Some cuffs are just long enough to cinch the glove around the wrist.

2.The Palm—This part covers the palm of the hand.

3. The Thumb—This part covers the thumb.

4. The Fingers—These parts cover each of the four fingers separately. They are constructed the same way.

What you need to measure

To crochet custom gloves, you will need the following measurements:

• Wrist circumference

• Palm circumference

• Distance from wrist to base of thumb

• Distance from base of thumb to top of palm (base of fingers)

• Length of each finger (four measurements)

• Thumb length

• Stitch and row gauges of your yarn, worked in the round.

Calculate gauge

To calculate the gauge properly, work the pattern in the round; gauge varies greatly working in the round versus working back and forth in rows. Use a hook smaller than recommended on the label to create a dense fabric.

To make a gauge swatch, chain 24. Join with a slip stitch to form a ring. Crochet the main pattern for 20 rows. Measure the circumference of the swatch. Divide the measurement by the number of stitches in each round. This will give you the number of stitches per inch. If you have fewer stitches than the pattern calls for, use a smaller hook; if you have more stitches than the pattern calls for, use a larger hook.

The math

To calculate your pattern, do the following math:

• The number of cuff stitches:

(Wrist circumference minus ½ inch) multiplied by (gauge stitches per inch), rounded up to the nearest even number.

• The number of palm stitches:

(Palm circumference) multiplied by (gauge stitches per inch), rounded up to the nearest even number.

• The number of thumb stitches:

(Palm stitches) divided by 6.

• The number of stitches for each finger: (Palm stitches) divided by 4.

A standard recipe—cuff to rounded tip

The Cuff—Chain the number of stitches needed with a hook one or two sizes smaller than the hook required for gauge. Join the round and work ribbing or other preferred stitch pattern for the desired cuff length. An adult glove is usually 2½ inches, a child’s 1½ to 2 inches.

The Palm—Change to hook for desired gauge and increase stitches evenly around to the required number of stitches for the palm. Use the stitch you plan to use for the main part of the glove. Work until palm measures the required distance from the top of the ribbing to base of thumb.

Mark the Thumb Position—If your glove doesn’t have a fancy pattern on the back of the hand, you can work both gloves the same, then change the side that the thumb falls on when working the fingers. If the glove has a distinct pattern for the back of the hand, use the following information:

For right glove: At the start of the next round, chain the required number of stitches for the thumb and then skip that many stitches on the palm. Finish round as normal.

For left glove: Work to the middle of the round, less the thumb stitches. For example, if the round is 48 stitches, and the thumb needs 8 stitches, work to 24 − 8 = 16 stitches. Chain the required number of stitches for the thumb and then skip that many stitches on the main hand. Finish round as normal.

Finish the Palm—To finish, work in pattern around, including the chain that created the thumb opening, until the glove reaches the top of the palm.

Fingers—To separate the fingers, first divide the number of palm stitches by 4. This will give you the total number of stitches for each finger. Now take that number and divide it in half. That is the number of stitches you will need to pick up on each half of the palm.

Creating the Thumb—Start the thumb by picking up in pattern around the opening you created above. Working in the round and in pattern, continue working the thumb until it measures about 1 round shorter than the length of the thumb measurement. In the last round, sc2tog all the way around to make a sloped tip. Fasten off and sew up the opening.

These basics should help you not only customize existing patterns, but also learn to create your own. Once you have established glove basics, the ideas and creativity will be endless!

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BASIC GLOVE RECIPE

Karen Ratto-Whooley

Rating: 2

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

8 (9, 10)" hand circumference.

YARN

The Loopy Ewe Solid Series (100% superwash merino; 2 oz/220 yd [201 m]/2 oz [56 g]; SUPERFINE): #30-52 kiwi (A), #23-20 butter (B), #46-76 cornflower (C), #78-12 lilac (D); 1 skein each. Gloves shown in multiple colors for illustration purposes. Gloves can be crocheted with one skein of yarn in one color.

HOOK

Sizes D/3 (3.25 mm) and E/4 (3.5mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

Yarn needle; st markers (m).

GAUGE

20 sc and 24 rows = 4".

Pattern

GLOVE

Cuff:

Rnd 1: With smaller hook, fdc (see Glossary) 32 (36, 42), sl st in first fdc to form ring.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), FPdc (see Glossary) around next dc, dc in next dc, FPdc around next dc; rep from around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—16 (18, 21) dc, 16 (18, 21) FPdc.

Rnds 3–5: Ch 3, FPdc around next FPdc, dc in next dc, FPdc around next FPdc; rep from around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—16 (18, 21) dc, 16 (18, 21) FPdc.

Hand:

Rnd 1: Change to larger hook, ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc, inc 4 sts evenly around, do not join—36 (40, 46) sc. Place marker (pm) in first st of rnd; cont to move m up each rnd.

Rnd 2: Sc around.

Rep Rnd 2 until hand reaches base of thumb.

Next rnd: Sc in next 15 (17, 19 ) sc, ch 6 (6, 8), sk 6 (6, 8) sc, sc in rem sc around—30 (34, 38) sc.

Next rnd: Sc in each sc and ch around—36 (40, 46) sc. Rep Rnd 2 until hand reaches base of fingers. At end of last rnd, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Fold hand so that thumb opening is sitting on correct side of palm for hand you are working. Using m, evenly divide total number of sts by 4 and pm so that each finger hole has same number of sts. Note: For largest size, 2 finger holes will have 11 sts and 2 will have 12.

Fingers:

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join yarn with sc in any st of finger hole, work 10 (11, 12 or 13) sc evenly around opening, inc as necessary, do not join—11 (12, 13 or 14) sc. Pm in first st of rnd; move m up each rnd.

Rnd 2: Sc around.

Rep Rnd 2 until finger length is ¼" from fingertip.

Next rnd: Sc2tog (see Glossary) around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Thumb:

Rnd 1: With RS facing, join D with sc in any st of thumb, work 13 (13, 17) sc evenly around, do not join—14 (14, 18) sc. Pm in first st of rnd; move m up each rnd.

Rnd 2: Sc around.

Rep Rnd 2 until thumb length is ¼" from tip.

Next rnd: Sc2tog around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Turn glove inside out and weave tail through rem sts on each finger and thumb, pulling tail to close tip. Weave in ends.

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LACE GLOVE RECIPE

Karen Ratto-Whooley

Rating: 2

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

8 (9, 10)" hand circumference.

YARN

Aunt Lydia’s Bamboo Crochet Thread size 10 (100% bamboo from viscose; 150 yd [137 m]; LACE): 0001 white, 2 balls. Yarn distributed by Coats & Clark.

HOOK

Size 1.75 mm steel hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

St markers (m); yarn needle; two ½ to ¾" buttons.

GAUGE 35 sc and 48 rows = 4".

Notes

Cuff is worked in rows, then joined to work in joined rnds for hand. Glove is separated for fingers, yarn is joined, and fingers are worked in joined rnds.

Stitch Guide

Increase (inc): Work 2 sts in st indicated.

Pattern

RIGHT GLOVE

Cuff:

Ch 71 (81, 89).

Row 1: (RS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—70 (80, 88) sc.

Rows 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first 2 sc, ch 4, sk next 4 sc, sc across, turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each sc and ch across, turn—70 (80, 88) sc.

Rows 7–9: Ch 1, sc across, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, inc (see Stitch Guide) 8 (7, 11) sts evenly across first 61 (81, 79) sts, to last 9 sc, turn, leaving rem sc unworked—69 (78, 90) sts.

Hand:

With WS tog, fold cuff and join first and last st of Row 10 (leaving unused sts of Row 9 for button flap) with sc and beg work in the rnd.

Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc, [ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc] around to last sc, sk last sc, ch 1, dc in first sc (counts as ch-3 sp throughout) to join—23 (26, 30) ch-3 sps.

Rnd 2: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] around to last dc, ch 1, dc in last dc to join.

Rnd 3: Ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] around to last dc, sl st in top of first dc to join.

Rnd 4: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same ch-3 sp, ch 3, [sk next ch-3 sp, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] around to last ch-3 sp, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 6: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] around, ch 1, dc in first ch-3 sp (counts as ch-3 sp) to join.

Rnd 7: Ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] around to last dc, sl st in top of dc to join.

Rnd 8: Rep Rnd 6.

Rnd 9 (thumbhole): [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] 14 (15, 17) times, [ch 3, dc in 3rd ch from hook] 4 (4, 5) times, sk next 3 (3, 4) ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] around to last ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in last dc to join.

Rnds 10–17: Rep Rnds 3–8, then Rnds 7–8.

Rnds 18–21: Rep Rnds 3–6. Fasten off.

With RS facing, slip glove on hand. Starting with pinky finger, place markers (pm) for 4 fingers evenly around, allowing for at least 1 ch-3 sp bet fingers.

Fingers (make 4):

With RS facing, join yarn with sc in any marked ch-3 sp.

Rnd 1: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] around to next m, ch 1, dc in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] around, ch 1, dc in first dc to join.

Rep Rnd 2, occasionally checking fit until finger length is ½" from tip.

Next Rnd: Ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] around, sl st in first dc to join.

Last Rnd: [Sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1] around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Thread yarn needle with tail, weave through ch-1 sps of last rnd and pull to close.

Thumb:

With RS facing, join yarn with sc in ch-3 sp at thumb opening.

Rnd 1: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] around, ch 1, dc in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: [Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] around; ch 1, dc in first dc to join.

Rep Rnd 2, occasionally checking fit until thumb length is ½" from tip.

Next Rnd: Ch 3, [sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] around, sl st in first dc to join.

Last Rnd: [Sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1] around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Thread yarn needle with tail, weave through ch-1 sps of last rnd and pull to close.

LEFT GLOVE

Cuff:

Work as for right glove for cuff through Row 10.

Hand:

With WS tog, fold cuff and join first and last st of Row 10 with sc and beg working in the rnd.

Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc, [ch 3, sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc] around to last sc, sk last sc, ch 1, dc in first sc (counts as ch-3 sp throughout) to join—23 (26, 30) ch-3 sps.

Rnds 2–8: Work as for right glove.

Rnd 9 (thumbhole): Ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, dc in 3rd ch from hook] 4 (4, 5) times, sk next 3 (3, 4) ch-3 sps, sc in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-3 sp] around to last ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in last dc to join.

Cont as for right glove.

FINISHING

Thread yarn needle with a length of yarn. Using photo as a guide, sew button to RS of cuff. Rep for 2nd glove.

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UNDEFINED COWL

Janet Brani

A ripply tape yarn gives a scrumply interest to a lace stitch. The pattern is easy enough, but you will challenge yourself with altered stitch definition. Blocking transforms the lace into a go-to accessory. Yarn: Tahki Yarns Tahki Ripple (Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.). Page 37.

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Rating: 2

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

8" wide, 62" circumference.

YARN

Tahki Yarns Tahki Ripple (100% cotton; 142 yd [130 m]/1¾ oz [50g]; MEDIUM): ocean, 2 balls. Yarn distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.

HOOK

Size H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

Blocking pins, yarn needle.

GAUGE

2 shells and 7 rows = 4" in patt.

Notes

Cowl is worked flat, widthwise, and short ends are sewn tog. Twist is inserted before sewing.

Stitch Guide

Beginning Shell (beg sh): (Ch 4, 2 dc) in st indicated.

Ending Shell (end sh): (2 dc, ch 1, dc) in st indicated.

Shell (sh): (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in st indicated.

V-stitch (V-st): (Dc, ch 3, dc) in st indicated.

Pattern

COWL

Ch 26.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, [sk 2 ch, sh (see Stitch Guide) in next ch, sk 2 ch, sc in next ch] 4 times, turn—4 sh, 5 sc.

Row 2: Beg sh (see Stitch Guide) in first sc, sc in ch-1 sp of next sh, [sh in next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, end sh (see Stitch Guide) in last sc, turn—5 sh, 4 sc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, [sh in next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp] 4 times, turn—4 sh, 5 sc.

Rows 4–11: Rep Rows 2–3 four times.

Row 12: Beg sh in first sc, sc in ch-1 sp of next sh, [V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, end sh in last sc, turn—2 sh, 3 V-st, 4 sc.

Row 13: Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, [V-st in next sc, sc in ch-3 sp] 3 times, V-st in next sc, sc in ch-1 sp, turn—4 V-st, 5 sc.

Row 14: Beg sh in first sc, sc in ch-3 sp of next V-st, [V-st in next sc, sc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, end sh in last sc, turn—2 sh, 3 V-st, 4 sc.

Row 15: Rep Row 13.

Row 16: Rep Row 14.

Row 17: Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, [sh in next sc, sc in ch-3 sp] 3 times, sh in next sc, sc in ch-1 sp—4 sh, 5 sc.

Rows 18–65: Rep Rows 2–17 three times.

Rows 66–80: Rep Rows 2–16.

FINISHING

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Soak scarf in cold water until fully wet. Roll in a towel and press out excess moisture. Gently stretch to approximately 10" in width and pin to a blocking board. Allow to dry completely. Match short ends of scarf tog with one twist (to create a Moebius) and sew with a loose whipstitch (see Glossary).

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MOREOVER DUSTER

Kimberly K. McAlindin

This quick and easy piece, created from a relatively small amount of yarn, is worn open as an accent. It moves beautifully as you walk, instantly transforming even the most basic outfit. Yarn: Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock. Page 38.

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Rating: 2

PLUS SIZE

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

30 (36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51)" bust circumference. Samples shown are longer version: 30", shorter version: 39".

YARN

Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock (80% superwash merino, 20% nylon; 435 yd [398 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; SUPERFINE): longer version: humboldt, 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) skeins; shorter version: pewter, 2 skeins all sizes.

HOOK

Sizes H/8 (5 mm); I/9 (5.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

Yarn needle.

GAUGE

6 sh = 9" and 12 rows = 8¼" in sh patt with larger hook.

Notes

Vest is worn open, so finished size may best be determined by hip measurements, rather than bust. Measure both, and choose a size accordingly, for best results.

Vest is made in one piece from hem to underarms and split for fronts and back. Two versions of pattern are given—one longer and one shorter. When working body, work indicated number of rows for desired version.

Stitch Guide

Shell (sh): [Dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc] in indicated st or sp.

V-St: [Dc, ch 2, dc] in indicated sp. Shell patt (multiple of 5 sts + 2; fsc [see Glossary] 32 with larger hook for gauge swatch):

Foundation Row: (RS) Ch 1, dc in first fsc, sk 2 fsc, sh in next fsc, sk 4 fsc, sh in next fsc; rep from to last 3 fsc, sk 2 fsc, dc in last fsc, turn—6 sh.

Row 1: (WS) Ch 1 (does not count as st throughout), sc in first dc, ch 2, sc in first ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from to last dc, ch 2, sc in last dc, turn.

Row 2: (RS) Ch 1, dc in first sc, sk ch-2 sp, sh in ch-3 sp, sk ch-4 sp, sh in ch-3 sp; rep from to last ch-2 sp, sk ch-2 sp, dc in last sc, turn.

Rep Rows 1–2 for patt.

Pattern

BODY

With larger hook, fsc (see Glossary) 102 (122, 132, 142, 152, 162, 172).

Work foundation row of sh patt (see Stitch Guide)—20 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34) sh.

Work Rows 1–2 of sh patt 22 times for longer version or 12 times for shorter version.

Left front:

Shape armhole:

Row 1: (WS) Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 2, sc in first ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in first ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5) times, ch 2 (2, 4, 2, 4, 2, 4), sk 1 (1, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2) dc, sc in next dc, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) ch-3 sps.

Row 2: Ch 1, dc in first sc, sk first ch-sp, sh in next ch-3 sp, sk ch-4 sp, sh in next ch-3 sp; rep from to last ch-2 sp, sk last ch-2 sp, dc in last sc, turn—4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sh.

Work 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 0, 0) rows even in sh patt.

Shape neck:

Row 1 (dec): (WS) Ch 3, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from to last 2 dc, ch 2, sk 1 , 18, 21, 21)" 3 (3, 3, 4½, 41 dc, sc in last dc, turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, dc in first sc, sk ch-2 sp, sh in next ch-3 sp, sk ch-4 sp; rep from to last ch-3 sp, V-st (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-3 sp, dc in last sc, turn—3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sh and 1 V-st.

Row 3: Ch 3, sc in first ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from to last 2 dc, ch 2, sk 1 dc, sc in last dc, turn—3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) ch-3 sps.

Row 4: Ch 1, dc in first sc, sk ch-2 sp, sh in next ch-3 sp, sk ch-4 sp; rep from to last sc, dc in last sc, turn—3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sh. Rep last 4 rows 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) times—2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) sh rem.

Work 2 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0) rows even in sh patt.

Next Row: (WS) Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch-2 sp across—12 (12, 12, 17, 17, 17, 17) sc. Fasten off leaving a long tail for seaming shoulder.

Back:

With WS facing, sk 4 (4, 5, 4, 5, 4, 5) dc from left front, join yarn with sl st in next dc.

Shape armholes:

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same dc as join, ch 2 (2, 4, 2, 4, 2, 4), Note: for sizes 39 (45, 51)" only: sk first ch-2 sp, for all sizes: Sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from 6 (8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12) times, ch 2 (2, 4, 2, 4, 2, 4), sk 1 (1, 2, 1, 2, 1, 2) dc, sc in next dc, turn, leaving rem sts unworked—8 (10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14) ch-3 sps.

Beg with Row 2 of sh patt, work 13 (15, 15, 15, 15, 17, 17) rows even, ending with Row 2 of patt.

Next Row: Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch-2 sp across—42 (52, 52, 62, 62, 72, 72) sc. Fasten off.

Right front:

With WS facing, sk 4 (4, 5, 4, 5, 4, 5) dc from back, join yarn with sl st in next dc.

Shape armhole:

Row 1: (WS) Ch 1, sc in same dc as join, ch 2 (2, 4, 2, 4, 2, 4), Note: For sizes 39 (45, 51)" only: sk first ch-2 sp, for all sizes: Sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from to last 2 dc, ch 2, sk 1 dc, sc in last dc, turn—4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) ch-3 sps.

Row 2: Ch 1, dc in first sc, sk first ch-2 sp, sh in next ch-3 sp, sk ch-4 sp, sh in next ch-3 sp; rep from to last ch-sp, sk last ch-sp, dc in last sc, turn—4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sh.

Work 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 0, 0) rows even in sh patt.

Shape neck:

Row 1: (WS) Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 2, sc in ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep from to last 2 dc, sk next dc, dc in last dc, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), V-st in first ch-3 sp, sk ch-4 sp, sh in next ch-3 sp; rep from to last sc, dc in last sc—3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) sh and 1 V-st.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 2, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 4; rep from to V-st, sc in last ch-2 sp, dc in tch, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, sk ch-4 sp, sh in next ch-3 sp; rep from to last sc, dc in last sc, turn. Rep last 4 rows 1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3) times—2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3) sh rem.

Work 2 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0) rows even in sh patt.

Next Row: (WS) Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch-2 sp across—12 (12, 12, 17, 17, 17, 17) sc. Fasten off leaving a long tail for seAMING SHOULDER.

FINISHING

Block piece to measurements. Sew shoulder seams.

Edging:

With smaller hook and RS facing, join yarn with sl st at bottom of right front.

Rnd 1: Work sc evenly up front of vest by working 3 sc for every 2 rows, sc in each sc across neck, back down left front to left front corner, work 3 sc in corner, sc in each sc of beg fsc row, 3 sc in last st, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Sc blo in each sc around.

Rnd 3: Rep Rnd 2.

Weave in ends.

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BLOOMSBURY TOP

Tammy Hildebrand

Winner of the first place in fashion at the 2012 Crochet Guild of America design contest, this top is made up of join-as-you-go flower motifs worked in a color-change yarn. Smaller motifs fill the space between the larger blooms. Yarn: DROPS Delight (Garnstudio). Page 41.

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Rating: 3

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

34 (38, 42, 46)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 34", modeled with no ease.

YARN

DROPS Delight (75% superwash wool, 25% polyamide; 191 yd [175 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; SUPERFINE): #07 beige/blue, 5 (6, 7, 8) balls. Yarn distributed by Garnstudio.

HOOK

Size F/5 (3.75 mm) hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

Yarn needle.

GAUGE

Rnds 1–2 of small flower motif = 2¼" in diameter; Rnds 1–2 of large flower motif = 3¼" in diameter; 6 rows = 4" in (dc, ch 3, dc) sleeve patt; 8 rows = 4" in (hdc, ch 3, hdc) side edging patt.

Notes

Sweater is best worn with very little, if any, ease. The open st patt allows for stretch to cover a large range of body shapes and sizes.

Sweater is made from 2 panels. Flower motifs are made first and assembled with a join-as-you-go technique. Filler and half filler motifs are then worked directly into the sps bet flower motifs foll placement diagram. Shoulder motifs are joined to the top of one panel and then joined to top of 2nd panel. Side edgings are worked onto both sides of one panel. Side edgings are then worked onto both sides of 2nd panel and joined to first panel. Sleeves are worked directly into armhole openings.

Stitch Guide

Ch-3 join: Ch 1, drop lp from hook, insert hook in center ch of corresponding ch-3 of adjoining motif, pick up dropped lp and draw through, ch 1.

Ch-5 join: Ch 2, drop lp from hook, insert hook in center ch of corresponding ch-3 of adjoining motif, pick up dropped lp and draw through, ch 2.

Small flower motif:

Ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 15 dc in ring, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—16 dc.

Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in next st, ch 1; rep from around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—16 dc, 16 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 3: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 3 ch, sk next ch-1 sp on Rnd 2*, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from around, ending last rep at *, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Rnd 4: Working in bottom ridge lps from ch-10 of prev rnd, sl st in next ch, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 8 lps, ch 5, dc in next 9 sts, sk next sc, dc in next 9 bottom ridge lps of ch-10, ch 5, dc in next 9 sts, sk next sc; rep from around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—144 dc.

Rnd 5: Ch 5 (counts as dtr), sk next 4 sts, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next st, (sc, [ch 3, sc] 3 times) in next ch-5 sp, sk next 3 sts, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next st, sk next 5 sts, dtr (see Glossary) in sp before next st, sk next 5 sts, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next st, (sc, [ch 3, sc] 3 times) in next ch-5 sp, sk next 3 sts, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next st, sk next 5 sts; rep from around, sl st in top of beg ch-5 to join. Fasten off.

Large flower motif:

Ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 5 (counts as tr and ch 1), [tr in ring, ch 1] 15 times, sl st in 4th ch of beg ch-5 to join—16 tr, 16 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 2: Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in same st, ch 1, 2 tr in next st, ch 1; rep from around, sl st in top of beg ch-4 to join—32 tr, 16 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 3: Sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next ch, ch 1, sk last ch of ch-11, sk next ch-1 sp on Rnd 2*, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from around, ending last rep at *, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Rnd 4: Working in bottom ridge lps from ch-11 of prev rnd, sl st in next ch, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 9 lps, ch 5, dc in next 9 sts, dc in next ch, sk next sc, dc in next 10 bottom ridge lps of ch-11, ch 5, dc in next 9 sts, dc in next ch, sk next st; rep from around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—160 dc.

Rnd 5: Ch 6 (counts as ttr), sk next 6 sts, (tr, ch 3, tr) in next st, (sc, [ch 3, sc] 3 times) in next ch-5 sp, sk next 2 sts, (tr, ch 3, tr) in next st, sk next 7 sts, ttr (see Glossary) in sp before next st; sk next 7 sts, (tr, ch 3, tr) in next st, (sc, [ch 3, sc] 3 times) in next ch-5 sp, sk next 2 sts, (tr, ch 3, tr) in next st, sk next 7 sts; rep from around, sl st in top of beg ch-6 to join. Fasten off.

Joining motifs:

Work 1 full flower motif through Rnd 5. During last rnd of each subsequent motif, join to side of another motif by replacing ch-3 with ch-3 join.

Filler motif:

Rnds 1–2: Rep Rnds 1–2 of flower motif for appropriate size.

Rnd 3: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), drop lp, insert hook in center ch of any ch-3 sp of adjoining flower motif, pick up dropped lp and draw through, ch 2, dc in next ch-1 sp on filler motif, ch-5 join (see above); rep from around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join—16 dc. Fasten off.

Small half filler motif:

Ch 3, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 7 dc in ring, turn—8 dc.

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in next st, ch 1, dc in next st; rep from across, turn—8 dc, 7 ch-1 sps.

Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), drop lp from hook, insert hook in center ch of indicated ch-3 sp, pick up dropped lp, draw through, ch 2, dc in next ch-1 sp, [ch-5 join (see above), dc in next ch-1 sp] 6 times, ch-5 join, dc in last dc—9 dc. Fasten off.

Large half filler motif:

Ch 3, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Row 1: Ch 5 (counts as tr and ch 1), tr in ring, [ch 1, tr in ring] 6 times, turn—8 tr, 7 ch-1 sps.

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as tr), tr in same st, ch 1, 2 tr in next st; rep from across, turn—16 tr, 7 ch-1 sps.

Row 3: Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), drop lp from hook, insert hook in center ch of indicated ch-3 sp, pick up dropped lp, draw through, ch 2, dc in next ch-1 sp, [ch-5 join (see above), dc in next ch-1 sp] 6 times, ch-5 join, dc in last dc—9 dc. Fasten off.

Pattern

PANEL (MAKE 2)

Foll diagram for placement, make and join 6 small (small, large, large) flower motifs. Then make and join 2 filler motifs and 5 small (small, large, large) half filler motifs. Join panels at shoulders.

Sizes 34 (38)" only:

Shoulder motif:

Rnds 1–2: Rep Rnds 1–2 of small flower motif.

Rnd 3: Sl st in next ch-1 sp, (ch 1, sc) in same sp, ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 3 ch, sk next ch-1 sp of Rnd 2, sc in next ch-1 sp*; rep from once more, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 4 times; rep from to ** 2 times, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3 times, sl st in first sc to join—4 petals, 8 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 4: Working in bottom ridge lps from ch-10 of prev rnd, sl st in next ch, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 8 lps, ch 5, dc in next 9 sts, sk next sc, dc in next 9 bottom ridge lps of ch-10, ch 5, dc in next 9 sts, sk next sc*, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times; rep from to * 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—72 dc, 6 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in first dc, sc in next 8 dc, joining to first panel, with RS facing (see diagram for placement): (sc, [ch-3 join (see Stitch Guide), sc] 2 times) in next ch-5 sp, sk next 3 dc, (dc, ch-3 join, dc) in next dc, sk next 5 dc, dtr (see Glossary) in sp before next dc, sk next 5 dc, (dc, ch-3 join, dc) in next dc, (sc, [ch-3 join, sc] 2 times) in next ch-5 sp*, sc in each st and ch-1 sp to next ch-5 sp; joining to second panel: rep from to *, sc in each st and ch-1 sp to end, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Rep, joining other side of panels.

Sizes 42 (46)" only:

Shoulder motif:

Rnds 1–2: Rep Rnds 1–2 of large flower motif.

Rnd 3: Sl st in next st, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 2 ch, tr in next ch, ch 1, sk last ch of ch-11, sk next ch-1 sp of Rnd 2, sc in next ch-1 sp*; rep from * once more, [ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp] 4 times; rep from to * 2 times, ch 2, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 2] 3 times, sl st in first sc to join—4 petals, 8 ch-2 sps.

Rnd 4: Working in bottom ridge lps from ch-11 of prev rnd, sl st in next ch, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 9 lps, ch 5, dc in next 9 sts, dc in next ch, sk next sc, dc in next 10 bottom ridge lps of ch-11, ch 5, dc in next 9 sts, dc in next ch, sk next sc*, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, sk next sc; rep from to * 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, [ch 2, sc in next ch-1 sp] 3 times, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—80 dc, 6 ch-2 sps.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in first dc, sc in next 9 dc, joining to first panel, with RS facing (see diagram for placement): (sc, [ch-3 join (see Stitch Guide), sc] 2 times) in next ch-5 sp, sk next 2 dc, (tr, ch-3 join, tr) in next dc, sk next 7 dc, ttr (see Glossary) in sp before next dc, sk next 7 dc, (tr, ch-3 join, tr) in next dc, (sc, [ch-3 join, sc] 2 times) in next ch-5 sp*, sc in each st and ch-2 sp to next ch-5 sp; joining to second panel: rep from to *, sc in each st and ch-2 sp to end, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Rep, joining other side of panels.

All sizes:

Side edging for first panel:

Row 1: (RS) With RS facing, join yarn with sc in center ch-3 sp of indicated petal (see diagram), (ch 5, sc) in same sp, (sc, ch 5, sc) in next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next dtr, sc in next ch-3 sp, (sc, ch 5, sc) in next 2 ch-3 sps, working over post of sts in row-ends of half filler motif, sc in Row 3, (dc, ch 5, dc) in Row 2, sk Row 1, (dc, ch 5, dc) in center ch-3, sk Row 1 on second side, (dc, ch 5, dc) in Row 2, sc in Row 3, (sc, ch 5, sc) in next 2 ch-3 sps, sc in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next dtr, sc in next ch-3 sp, (sc, ch 5, sc) in next 2 ch-3 sps; rep from once, turn.

Row 2: Sl st in next ch-5 sp, ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), dc in same sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in each ch-5 sp across, turn.

Sizes 34 (42)" only:

Fasten off.

Sizes 38 (46)" only:

Rows 3–4: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 5 (counts as hdc and ch 3), hdc in same sp, (hdc, ch 3, hdc) in each ch-3 sp across. Fasten off. Rep for second edge on first panel.

Side edging for 2nd panel:

Row 1: Rep Row 1 of first panel.

Sizes 34 (42)" only:

Row 2: Sl st in next ch-5 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), drop lp from hook, insert hook in center ch of corresponding ch-3 on first panel, pick up dropped lp and draw through, ch 1, dc in same sp, (dc, ch-3 join, dc) in each ch-5 sp across. Fasten off.

Sizes 38 (46)" only:

Row 2: Sl st in next ch-5 sp, ch 5 (counts as hdc, ch 2), hdc in same sp, (hdc, ch 3, hdc) in each ch-5 sp across, turn.

Row 3: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 5 (counts as hdc, ch 2), hdc in same sp, (hdc, ch 3, hdc) in each ch-3 sp across, turn.

Row 4: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc, ch 1), drop lp from hook, insert hook in center ch of corresponding ch-3 on first panel, pick up dropped lp and draw through, ch 1, dc in same sp, (dc, ch-3 join, dc) in each ch-3 sp across. Fasten off.

Rep for 2nd edge on 2nd panel.

All sizes:

Neck edging:

Rnd 1: Working around neck opening, with RS facing, join yarn with sc in any st on shoulder motif, sc in each st to next flower motif, 3 sc in next 2 ch-3 sps, sc in next dtr (dtr, ttr, ttr), 3 sc in next 4 ch-3 sps, sc in next dtr (dtr, ttr, ttr), 3 sc in next 2 ch-3 sps; rep from once, sc in each st to end, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Sleeves:

Rnd 1: Working around armhole opening, with RS facing, join yarn with sc in center of seam joining at underarm, work 3 sc in each row-end of side edging, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next dtr (dtr, ttr, ttr), sc in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next ch-3 sp, working across shoulder, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next sc, [sk 3 sc, (dc, ch-5, dc) in next sc] 6 times, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next dtr, (dtr, ttr, ttr), sc in next ch-3 sp, (dc, ch 5, dc) in next ch-3 sp, 3 sc in each row-end of side edging, sl st in first sc to join—13 ch-5 sps, 13 (13, 25, 25) sc at underarm.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in first sc, sc2tog 3 (3, 6, 6) times, (dc, ch 3, dc) in each ch-5 sp around, sc2tog 3 (3, 6, 6) times, sl st in first sc to join—13 ch-3 sps, 7 (7, 13, 13) sc at underarm.

Sizes 42 (46)" only:

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first sc, sc2tog (see Glossary) 3 times, (dc, ch 3, dc) in each ch-3 sp around, sc2tog 3 times, sl st in first sc to join—13 ch-3 sps, 7 sc at underarm.

All sizes:

Rnds 3–5 (3–5, 4–6, 4–6): Ch 1, sc in first 4 sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in each ch-3 sp, sc in last 3 sc, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 6 (6, 7, 7): Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), dc in same sc as join, sk next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in each ch-3 sp around, sk next sc, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next sc, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join—16 ch-3 sps.

Rnds 7–15 (7–15, 8–16, 8–16): Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 6, dc in same sp, (dc, ch 3, dc) in each ch-3 sp around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-6 to join.

Rnd 16 (16, 17, 17): Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), dc in same sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in each ch-3 sp around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join—16 ch-2 sps.

Rnds 17–23 (17–23, 18–24, 18–24): Sl st in next ch-2 sp, ch 5, dc in same sp, (dc, ch 2, dc) in each ch-2 sp around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5 to join.

Rnd 24 (24, 25, 25): Sl st in next ch-2 sp, ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), dc in same sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-2 sp around, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join—16 ch-1 sps.

Rnds 25–35 (25–35, 26–36, 26–36): Sl st in next ch-1 sp around, ch 4, dc in same sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in each ch-1 sp, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-4 to join. Fasten off after last rnd.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Immerse sweater in cool water, squeeze out excess water, taking care not to wring or twist. Place the piece on a flat, covered surface, gently stretch to open lace pattern. Pin in place to measurements. Leave until completely dry.

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VANESSA SHELL

Robyn Chachula

An addictive woven stitch, perfect for those new to Tunisian stitch, forms the main portion of this tee, with a lacy cluster stitch at the yoke. The pima silk gives delicious drape to this wardrobe staple. Yarn: Cascade Yarns Pima Silk. Page 35.

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Rating: 3

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

34 (37¼, 40¾, 45¼, 48)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 34", modeled with 3" ease. Garment is meant to be close fit with 0-1" ease.

YARN

Cascade Yarns Pima Silk (85% pima cotton, 15% silk; 109 yd [99 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; MEDIUM): #9506 pastel sea green, 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) balls.

HOOK

Size J/10 (6 mm) 14" Tunisian hook; L/11 (8 mm) 30" Tunisian cabled hook; H/8 (5 mm) standard hook. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

Blocking pins and spray bottle; st markers (m); yarn needle.

GAUGE

4 reps = 4" and 6 rows = 3¾" in lace patt with smaller Tunisian hook; 12 sts and 7 rows = 4" in tew st with larger Tunisian hook.

Notes

Shell top is worked in one piece from front to back, then folded in half at shoulders. Lower body is worked from top down in 2 pieces to underarm, then joined to work flat in one piece to hem before joining it to lace top. Sleeves are worked separately and sewn to body.

Lace top and sleeves are worked in lace patt with smaller Tunisian hook. Lower body is worked in tew st with larger Tunisian hook.

Pay close attention to RetP for lace top and sleeves as the directions vary from row to row.

Stitch Guide

Double Crochet Cluster (2 dc-cl): [Yo, insert hook from right to left in front vertical bar of st (or in ch for first row), yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times in same st, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook.

Tunisian Treble Crochet (Ttr): Yo 2 times, insert hook from right to left in front vertical bar of st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times. One lp rem on hook to be worked off during RetP.

Lace patt (multiple of 4 sts + 3):

Ch 20 for gauge swatch.

Row 1: FwP: Sk first 2 ch (counts as first st), 2 dc-cl (see above) in next ch, sk next ch, pull up lp in next ch, sk next ch; rep from to last 2 ch, 2 dc-cl in next ch, pull up lp in last ch, ch 1. RetP: Yo, draw through 1 lp on hook, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, ch 1; rep from to last 2 sts, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times.

Row 2: FwP: Ch 1 (counts as first st), tps (see Glossary) in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 2 sts, tps in next st, tss (see Glossary) in last st, ch 1. RetP: Work as for Row 1.

Row 3: FwP: Ch 1 (counts as first st), 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 2 sts, 2 dc-cl in next st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Work as for Row 1. Rep Rows 2–3 for patt.

RetP for lower body: Yo, draw through 1 lp on hook, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook; rep from across.

Tunisian sl st (Tsl st): Insert hook from right to left in front vertical bar of next st, yo and draw lp through st and lp on hook; rep from across.

Tunisian extended woven st (tew): Insert hook in both front vertical bar and front horizontal bar of next st, yo and pull up lp, ch 1; rep from across.

Pattern

LACE TOP

Front:

With smaller Tunisian hook, ch 56 (60, 64, 68, 68).

Row 1: Work Row 1 of lace patt (see Stitch Guide)—14 (15, 16, 17, 17) 2 dc-cl.

Rows 2–5: Work even in lace patt.

Shape left neck:

Row 1: FwP: Ch 1 (counts as first st throughout), [tps (see Glossary) in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl (see Stitch Guide) in next st, sk next st] 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) times, Ttr (see Stitch Guide) in next st, leave rem sts unworked. RetP: Yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, ch 1; rep from to last 2 sts, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times—4 (4, 5, 5, 5) 2 dc-cl.

Row 2: FwP: Ch 1, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 3 sts, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, Ttr in last st. RetP: Work as for Row 1.

Row 3: FwP: Ch 1, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st; rep from to last st, Ttr in last st. RetP: Work as for Row 1—3 (3, 4, 4, 4) 2 dc-cl.

Row 4: FwP: Ch 1, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 3 sts, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, tss (see Glossary) in top of Ttr, ch 1. RetP: Yo, draw through 1 lp on hook, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, ch 1; rep from to last 2 sts, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times.

Row 5: FwP: Ch 1, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 4 sts, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Work as for Row 4.

Row 6: FwP: Ch 1, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 4 sts, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Work as for Row 4.

Row 7: FwP: Ch 1, [tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st] 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, Ttr in last st. RetP: Yo, draw through 1 lp on hook, ch 1, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, ch 1; rep from to last 2 sts, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times—3 (3, 4, 4, 4) 2 dc-cl.

Row 8: FwP: Ch 1, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st; rep from to last st, (2 dc-cl, Ttr) in last st. RetP: Work as for Row 7—4 (4, 5, 5, 5) 2 dc-cl. Drop working yarn; do not fasten off.

Shape right neck:

Join new ball of yarn with sl st in same st as Ttr at end of Row 1 of left neck.

Row 1: FwP: Sl st across center sts to last 17 (17, 21, 21, 21) sts, ch 3 (counts as Ttr throughout), sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st; rep from to last st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Yo, draw through 1 lp on hook, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, ch 1; rep from to last 2 sts, yo, draw through 3 lps on hook—4 (4, 5, 5, 5) 2 dc-cl.

Row 2: FwP: Ch 3, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 2 sts, 2 dc-cl in next st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Work as for Row 1.

Row 3: FwP: Ch 3, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st; rep from to last st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Work as for Row 1—3 (3, 4, 4, 4) 2 dc-cl.

Row 4: FwP: Ch 1, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 4 sts, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Yo, draw through 1 lp on hook, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, ch 1; rep from to last 2 sts, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times.

Row 5: FwP: Ch 1, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 4 sts, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Work as for Row 4.

Row 6: Rep Row 4.

Row 7: FwP: Ch 3, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 2 sts, tps in next st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Yo, draw through 1 lp on hook, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, ch 1; rep from to last 2 sts, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, ch 1, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook.

Row 8: FwP: Ch 3, 2 dc-cl in first st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st; rep from to last st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Work as for Row 7, ch 23 (27, 23, 27, 27), sl st in last st on Row 8 of left neck to join—4 (4, 5, 5, 5) 2 dc-cl. Fasten off.

Back:

Return to working with yarn attached to left neck.

Row 1: FwP: Ch 1, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st; rep from across all sts and ch to last 2 sts, tps in next st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP: Yo, draw through 1 lp on hook, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, ch 1; rep from to last 2 sts, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times.

Rows 2–7: Work even in lace patt (see Stitch Guide).

Last row: Tsl st (see Stitch Guide) across. Fasten off.

SLEEVES

With smaller Tunisian hook, ch 48 (52, 56, 64, 68).

Row 1: Work Row 1 of lace patt—12 (13, 14, 16, 17) 2 dc-cl.

Row 2: Work Row 2 of lace patt.

Shape cap:

Row 1: FwP: Sl st in next 3 sts, ch 3 (counts as Ttr), sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st; rep from to last 4 sts, Ttr in next st. RetP: Yo, draw through 2 lps on hook, ch 1; rep from to last 2 sts, yo, draw through 3 lps on hook—10 (11, 12, 14, 15) 2 dc-cl.

Row 2: FwP: Ch 3, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st, tps in next st, sk next st, 2 dc-cl in next st, sk next st; rep from to last st, Ttr in last st. RetP: Work as for Row 1—9 (10, 11, 13, 14) 2 dc-cl.

Rows 3–6 (3–8, 3–8, 3–10, 3–10): Rep Row 2 four (six, six, eight, eight) times—5 (4, 5, 5, 6) 2 dc-cl.

Last row: Tsl st across. Fasten off.

LOWER BODY

Upper section (make 2):

With larger Tunisian hook, ch 44 (47, 50, 53, 53).

Size 34" only:

Row 1: FwP: Sk first 2 ch, insert hook in next ch, (pull up lp, ch 1) 2 times in same ch, insert hook in next ch and pull up lp, ch 1; rep from to last ch, (pull up lp, ch 1) 2 times in last ch—45 lps. RetP: Work standard RetP (see Glossary).

Sizes 37¼ (40¾, 45¼, 48)" only:

Row 1: FwP: Sk first 2 ch, insert hook in next ch and pull up lp, ch 1; rep from across—46 (49, 52, 52) lps. RetP: Work standard RetP (see Glossary).

Sizes 40¾ (45¼, 48)" only:

Row 2: FwP: Ch 1 (counts as st), sk first st, tew (see Stitch Guide) in each st across to last st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP.

Rep last row 0 (1, 1) time.

All sizes:

Row 2 (2, 3, 4, 4): FwP: Ch 1 (counts as st), tew (see Stitch Guide) in first st, tew in each st across to last st, [tss, ch 1] 2 times in last st—47 (48, 51, 54, 54) lps. RetP.

Rep last row 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) time—47 (50, 53, 56, 56) sts. Drop working yarn; do not fasten off. Work second upper section same as first with a new ball of yarn, then ch 4 (6, 8, 12, 16) and join to first upper section with a sl st to the last st on the last row. Fasten off.

Note: Only join once, leave one side open to work flat.

Lower section:

Return to working with yarn attached to first upper section.

Row 1: FwP: Ch 5 (7, 9, 13, 17), sk first 2 ch, insert hook in next ch and pull up lp, ch 1*; rep from across ch, tew in each st across to ch, rep from to ** across ch, tew in each st across to last st, tss in last st, ch 1—102 (112, 122, 136, 144) lps. RetP.

Row 2: FwP: Ch 1, sk first st, tew across to last st, tss in last st, ch 1. RetP.

Rep Row 2 three (three, four, four, four) times.

Shape body:

Place marker (pm) in 4th (6th, 8th, 12th, 16th), 52nd (57th, 62nd, 69th, 73rd), and 55th (60th, 57th, 72nd, 76th) sts.

Inc row: Ch 1, tew in first st, tew in each st to m, 2 tew in next st, move m up to 2nd st, tew in each st to m, 2 tew in next st, move m up to first st; rep from to once, tew across to last st, tss in last st, ch 1—106 (116, 126, 140, 148) lps. RetP.

[Rep Row 2 four times, rep inc row] 3 times—118 (128, 138, 152, 160) sts.

Rep Row 2 five (five, six, six, six) times.

Last row: Insert hook in front vertical bar and top horizontal bar of next st, yo and draw through st and lp on hook; rep from across. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Pin panels to schematic size. Spray with water and allow to dry. Whipstitch (see Glossary) side seams together.

Join lace top to lower body:

With RS facing and standard hook, join yarn with sl st to upper edge of lower body.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly across upper edge. Fasten off.

With RS facing and standard hook, join yarn with sl st to lower edge of lace top.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly across lower edge, do not turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, rev sc (see Glossary) flo across. Do not fasten off.

Pin lace top to lower body. Working in free lps of Row 1 of both pieces at the same time, sl st across to join. Fasten off. Rep on opposite side of lace top.

Pin sleeves into armholes with RS facing and whipstitch in place. Sew sleeve seams.

Sleeve edging:

With RS facing and standard hook, join yarn with sl st to sleeve edge.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Neck edging:

Pm in inside corners of front and back of neck With RS facing and standard hook, join yarn with sl st to back neck.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around neck, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc to 1 st before m, sk next st; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 3: Sl st around. Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

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YADDO CARDIGAN

Moon Eldridge

A conventional silhouette is softened by fine lace. Designed to be worn unbuttoned, this is a piece you will reach for again and again. Yarn: Zitron Filisilk (Skacel). Page 39.

______________________________

Rating: 3

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

34 (36, 38, 40, 42)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 34", modeled with no ease.

YARN

Zitron Filisilk (70% extra fine merino, 30% silk; 656 yd [600 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; SUPERFINE): #3009, light green, 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) skeins. Yarn distributed by Skacel.

HOOK

Sizes C/2 (2.75 mm); D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

Yarn needle.

GAUGE

30 sts and 24 rows = 4" in ribbing patt with smaller hook; 36 sts and 9 rows = 4" in main body patt with larger hook.

Notes

Cardigan is worked from bottom up in one piece to armholes, then back and fronts are worked separately. Sleeves are worked separately and sewn in.

When working main body patt, do not count ch-3 at beg of row as part of st count.

Stitch Guide

Partial dc: Yo, insert hook in st or sp indicated and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook.

Main body patt (multiple of 6 sts + 1):

Ch 49 for gauge swatch.

Set-up row: Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn.

Row 1: (RS) Ch 3 (counts as dc), sk next 2 dc, (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, partial dc [see above]) in next dc, [sk 2 dc, partial dc in next dc] 2 times, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook, ch 2, (dc, ch 2, partial dc) in same dc as last dc; rep from across, sk 2 dc, partial dc in last dc, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook, turn.

Row 2: (WS) Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), dc3tog (see Glossary) over first 3 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc; rep from across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc; rep from across, end with ch 2, dc2tog (see Glossary) over last dc worked and last dc, turn.

Rep Rows 2–3 for patt.

Pattern

BODY

Ribbing:

With smaller hook, ch 248 (264, 278, 294, 308).

Row 1: (RS) Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—246 (262, 276, 292, 306) dc.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc), FPdc (see Glossary) in next st, BPdc (see Glossary) in next st; rep from to last st, dc in last st, turn.

Rows 3–10: Rep Row 2.

Lower body:

Change to larger hook.

Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first 2 (3, 2, 3, 2) sts, (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, partial dc [see Stitch Guide]) in next st, sk next 2 sts, partial dc in next st, sk next 2 sts, partial dc in next st, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook, ch 2, (dc, ch 2, partial dc) in same st as last dc; rep from across, sk next 2 sts, partial dc in last st, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook, turn—295 (313, 331, 349, 367) sts.

Row 2: (WS) Work Row 2 of main body patt (see Stitch Guide).

Rows 3–12 (12, 14, 14, 16): Work even in patt.

Shape waist:

Rows 13–18 (13–18, 15–20, 15–20, 17–22): Change to smaller hook, work even in patt.

Rows 19–28 (19–28, 21–30, 21–30, 23–32): Change to larger hook, work even in patt.

Separate for fronts and back:

Right front:

Shape armhole:

Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, [ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc] 9 (10, 10, 11, 11) times, turn leaving rem sts unworked—61 (67, 67, 73, 73) sts.

Row 2: (WS) Ch 5, dc3tog over first 3 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc; rep from across, turn.

Row 3 (dec armhole): Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc; rep from across, end with ch 2, dc2tog over last dc worked and last dc, turn—58 (64, 64, 70, 70) sts.

Row 4: Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc; rep from across, turn.

Row 5 (dec armhole): Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc; rep from across, turn—55 (61, 61, 67, 67) sts.

Shape neck:

Row 6 (dec neck): Ch 5, dc3tog over first 3 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc; rep from across, turn—52 (58, 58, 64, 64) sts.

Row 7 (dec armhole): Ch 5, dc3tog over first 3 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc; rep from across, end with ch 2, dc2tog over last dc worked and last dc, turn—49 (55, 55, 61, 61) sts.

Note: Armhole shaping is complete.

Row 8 (dec neck): Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc; rep from across, end with ch 2, dc2tog over last dc worked and last dc, turn—46 (52, 52, 58, 58) sts.

Row 9: Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc; rep from across, turn.

Row 10 (dec neck): Rep Row 5—43 (49, 49, 55, 55) sts.

Row 11: Work Row 2 of main body patt.

Rows 12–20: Rep Rows 8–11 two times, then Row 8—28 (34, 34, 40, 40) sts.

Size 34" only:

Fasten off.

Sizes 36 (38, 40, 42)" only:

Rows 21–22 (22, 24, 24): Work even in main body patt. Fasten off.

Back:

With RS facing, sk 14 (11, 14, 11, 14) sts, join yarn with sl st in next st.

Shape armholes:

Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, dc2tog over next 2 dc, [ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc] 21 (22, 25, 26, 29) times, turn—127 (133, 151, 157, 175) sts.

Row 2: (WS) Work Row 2 of main body patt.

Row 3 (dec): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc; rep from across, end with ch 2, dc2tog over last dc worked and last dc, turn—121 (127, 145, 151, 169) sts.

Row 4: Work Row 3 of main body patt.

Row 5 (dec): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc2tog over next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc; rep from across, turn—115 (121, 139, 145, 163) sts.

Rows 6–7: Rep Rows 2–3—109 (115, 133, 139, 157) sts.

Rows 8–20 (22, 22, 24, 24): Work even in main body patt. Fasten off.

Left front:

With WS facing, join yarn with sl st in first st on last row of lower body. Work as for right front.

Note: RS and WS will be reversed.

SLEEVES

Ribbing:

With smaller hook, ch 70 (74, 78, 82, 90).

Row 1: (RS) Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—68 (72, 76, 80, 88) dc.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc), FPdc in next st, BPdc in next st; rep from to last st, dc in last st, turn.

Rows 3–10: Rep Row 2.

Sleeve:

Change to larger hook.

Row 1: (RS) Ch 3, sk first 3 (3, 2, 2, 1) sts, (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, partial dc) in next st, [sk next 2 sts, partial dc in next st, sk next st, partial dc in next st, yo and draw through all 4 lps on hook, ch 2, (dc, ch 2, partial dc) in same st as last dc] 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) times, sk next 3 (2, 2, 1, 1) sts, partial dc in last st, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook, turn—79 (85, 91, 97, 103) sts.

Row 2: (WS) Work Row 2 of main body patt.

Rows 3–15: Work even in patt.

Row 16 (inc): (WS) Ch 5 (counts as dc and ch 2), dc in first dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc; rep from across, end with ch 2, (dc, ch 2, dc) in same dc, turn—85 (91, 97, 103, 109) sts.

Row 17 (inc): Rep Row 16—91 (97, 103, 109, 115) sts.

Rows 18–23: Work even in patt.

Rows 24–39: Rep Rows 16–23 two times—115 (121, 127, 133, 139) sts.

Row 40: Work even in patt.

Shape cap:

Row 1 (dec): (RS) Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc; rep from across, end with ch 2, dc2tog over last dc worked and last dc, turn—109 (115, 121, 127, 133) sts.

Row 2: Work Row 3 of main body patt.

Row 3 (dec): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc2tog over next 2 dc, ch 2, dc in same dc, ch 2, dc3tog over last dc worked and next 2 dc; rep from across, turn—103 (109, 115, 121, 127) sts.

Row 4: Work Row 2 of main body patt.

Rows 5–8: Rep Rows 1–4—91 (97, 103, 109, 115) sts.

Rows 9–14 (15, 15, 16, 16): Rep Row 1 four (five, five, six, six) times—55 (55, 61, 61, 67) sts. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Sew shoulder seams.

Edging:

With RS facing and smaller hook, join yarn with sl st at bottom corner of right front.

Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 13 dc along edge of ribbing, 154 (160, 166, 172, 178) dc evenly up right front to shoulder, 54 (54, 66, 66, 78) dc along back neck, 154 (160, 166, 172, 178) dc down left front and 14 dc along bottom ribbing, turn—390 (402, 426, 438, 462) dc.

Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as dc), FPdc in next st, BPdc in next st; rep from to last st, dc in last st, turn.

Rows 3–6: Rep Row 2. Fasten off.

Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve seams. Weave in ends. Block.

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EVERYDAY CROCHET: DOUBLE CROCHET

Kathryn Vercillo

Photo courtesy of Jodie Pearce

The inspiring crochet relationship between neighbors Jodie and Adrienne makes you wish you could be in Australia with them, crafting in the sunshine in Jodie’s garden and enjoying a “chat over a cuppa.”

The Beginning of a Beautiful Friendship

After Adrienne Kajewski moved to a Adelaide, South Australia, she decided to fend off isolation by learning to crochet. While helping her kids meet new people in the neighborhood, she met Jodie Pearce, who has a daughter the same age as hers. Adrienne mentioned to Jodie that she was learning to crochet. Jodie had learned to crochet in 2005, inspired by the desire for one-of-a-kind home items and shawls. Passionate about the craft, Jodie loves helping others, so she told Adrienne that she could come by anytime she got stuck. Thus a craft-based friendship was born.

Inspired by a Pretty Pattern

Flipping through Interweave Crochet’s Spring 2011 issue, both women both fell in love with Robyn Chachula’s Petal Pullover. They decided to work together, but each would make her own version. Jodie was drawn to the adaptability of Robyn’s pattern, and Adrienne was attracted to the seeming ease of the project.

Jodie wanted to modify the pattern to fit her petite frame. “Many petite women will tell you that often the smallest store-bought sizes don’t fit properly,” she says. “Crochet lets me modify a pattern to my personal specifications. All the patterns I have seen of Robyn Chachula’s are logical and well written; Petal Pullover is no exception. It is easier to modify a pattern when the original design framework makes sense to the reader.”

As a new crocheter, Adrienne wanted to create a handmade garment that expressed her individuality, but she didn’t want to be overwhelmed by a complicated pattern. The Petal Pullover felt elegant but achievable.

The two women went yarn shopping together, opting to substitute the pattern’s suggested linen yarn with a warmer, but breathable, washable merino wool. Then they each began to work.

Learning from Each Other

Jodie is a right-handed, experienced crocheter interested in modifying patterns. Adrienne is a left-handed newbie to crocheting garments. Jodie served as the informal mentor through this process, but the women ultimately learned from each other. Adrienne says Jodie helped her iron out details and take her crochet to the next level. For example, Jodie taught her about the importance of observing the right side (RS) and wrong side (WS) of a garment and explains, “When the body of the garment is joined in the round, it is easy to confuse the inside and outside. I had to redo one sleeve when I realized that it would attach to the garment inside out and that it would be noticeable.” Adrienne learned the importance of fixing a problem in crochet as soon as you spot it, challenging the “near enough is good enough” notion she had had before.

Because they crochet with opposite hands, the shared experience let Jodie develop her skills in reading patterns “backward.” To teach Adrienne what she knew, Jodie had to make sure that she was clear on her own knowledge, allowing her to think more about the entire process. Jodie also told Adrienne about the importance of making a gauge swatch and then washing and blocking that swatch. “The extra time in swatching provides practice in working the stitch pattern so that by the time you are ready to commence with the garment, your crochet will be smooth and even for a professional look,” Jodie says.

Adrienne taught Jodie the value of using the Internet to find crochet resources; both women are visual learners, but Jodie learned from books, whereas Adrienne taught herself by using YouTube.

Crafting Together Is Motivating

Jodie and Adrienne said that working together really motivated them to complete their projects. The women helped each other overcome confusion and frustration. Jodie says that even if they had only fifteen minutes together, it was “enough to recharge, connect with each other, work on our projects, and learn complementary skills.” Adrienne adds, “If you can’t have a neighbor across the road, the next best thing is a community of friends online to have questions answered.”

These crafty women have five children between them, and households to tend to. A creative outlet is important for self-esteem and stress relief, Jodie says, and it’s important to balance meeting her family’s needs with time for herself. Both women do other crafts, but they appreciate crochet’s benefits: its portability, its no-mess factor, and its slow pace with accompanying relaxation, as well as the fact that it can be done even when faced with illness or low energy. And, Adrienne adds, “Errors can be reversed very quickly.”

Appreciating Each Other

Through problem solving together, the women gained respect for each other’s craftiness. Jodie loves Adrienne’s enthusiasm for diving into a project. Adrienne appreciates Jodie’s “attention to detail and her knowledge of the mathematics behind the construction.”

Adrienne loves the passion for crochet that Jodie embodies. Jodie really enjoys crafting for others, especially her family. Crocheting ties her to the generations before her, she says, and she thinks about her mother, grandmother, and great-aunties while she crafts. Jodie takes great joy in passing the skill on to future generations as well. When children see her crocheting and show an interest, she will show them how to do it.

Adrienne has also made the Kristy Cardigan by Dora Ohrenstein (Interweave Crochet, Spring 2010), a fact Jodie proudly points out. Jodie has crocheted Karen Ratto-Whooley’s socks (Winter 2011), the Pinebark Hood by Shannon Mullett-Bowlsby (Winter 2010), and the Five Spice Hat by Dora Ohrenstein (Fall 2010).

What’s next for these crafty neighbors? Jodie says, “I don’t know, but when we get together and find ourselves gushing simultaneously about the beauty of a particular project, that’s the project we will do.”

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MELANIA DRESS

Cristina Mershon

Melania loves to dance and swirl and turn in puffy-fluffy tutus. This dress is designed to be worn over a tutu, but it’s just as happy all by itself. Yarn: Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine. Page 55.

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Rating: 2

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

14½ (18, 21, 24½)" chest circumference, to fit size 6–12 month (12–24 month, 2–3 yr, 3–4 yr). Garment shown measures 21", modeled with 1" ease.

YARN

Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima Fine (100% pima cotton; 137 yd [125 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; FINE): #3752, 5 skeins.

HOOK

Size C/2 (2.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

St marker (m); yarn needle.

GAUGE

Three 7-dc groups and 8 rows = 4" in patt.

Notes

Dress is worked from top down in joined rnds. Mark beg of rnd with st marker.

When working into v-st, work sts in ch-2 sp bet 2 dc.

Stitch Guide

Beginning V-stitch (beg v-st): (Ch 4, dc) in same sc.

V-stitch (v-st): (Dc, ch 2, dc) in same sp.

Picot: Ch 3, sl st through front lp and vertical strand of previous sc.

Pattern

DRESS

Yoke:

Ch 84 (96, 108, 120). Being careful not to twist sts, sl st in first st to form ring. Place marker (pm) for beg of rnd (see Notes), move m up as work progresses.

Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in same sp, sk next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, sk next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, sk next 2 ch; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—14 (16, 18, 20) sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, beg v-st (see Stitch Guide) in first sc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, v-st (see Stitch Guide) in next sc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 2 dc; rep from around, sl st in beg v-st to join.

Rnd 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 3 dc in same v-st, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-2 sp, 7 dc in next v-st, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-2 sp; rep from around, 3 dc in first v-st, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 2, sk next 3 dc, v-st in next sc, ch 2, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 3 dc, v-st in next sc, ch 2, sk next 3 dc; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in first sc, sk next ch-2 sp, 7 dc in next v-st, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-2 sp, 7 dc in next v-st, sk next ch-2 sp; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, beg v-st in first sc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, v-st in next sc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc; rep from around, sl st in first v-st to join.

Rnd 7: Ch 3, 4 dc in first v-st, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-3 sp, 9 dc in next v-st, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-3 sp; rep from around, 4 dc in first v-st, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 3, sk next 4 dc, v-st in next sc, ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 4 dc, v-st in next sc, ch 3, sk next 4 dc; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in first sc, sk next ch-3 sp, 9 dc in next v-st, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-3 sp, 9 dc in next v-st, sk next ch-3 sp; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join.

Sleeve opening:

Rnd 10: Ch 1, beg v-st in first sc, ch 10, sk next 9 dc, [sk next sc, sk next 9 dc] 3 times, v-st in next sc, ch 4, sk next 4 dc, sc in next dc, ch 4, sk next 4 dc, v-st in next sc; rep from 2 (3, 4, 5) times, ch 10, sk next 9 dc, [sk next sc, sk next 9 dc] 3 times, v-st in next sc, ch 4, sk next 4 dc, sc in next dc, ch 4, sk next 4 dc, v-st in next sc, ch 4, sk next 4 dc, sc in next dc, ch 4, sk next 4 dc; rep from * 1 (2, 3, 4) times, sl st in first v-st to join—8 (10, 12, 14) v-sts.

Bodice:

Rnd 11: Ch 1, three (four, two, three) sc in first v-st, 10 sc in next ch-10 sp, 2 sc in next v-st, *4 sc in next ch-4 sp, sk next sc, 4 sc in next ch-4 sp, 2 sc in next v-st; rep from to next ch-10 sp, 10 sc in next ch-10 sp, 2 sc in next v-st, 4 sc in next ch-4 sp, sk next sc, 4 sc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * around, sl st in first v-st to join—85 (106, 124, 145) sc.

Rnds 12–21: Ch 1, sc blo in each sc around, sl st in first sc to join.

Skirt:

Rnd 22: Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 5, sk next 2 sc, *sc in next sc, ch 5, sk next 2 sc; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join—28 (35, 41, 48) ch-5 sps.

Rnd 23: Ch 1, sc in first sc, 5 sc in next ch-5 sp, *sc in next sc, picot (see Stitch Guide), 5 sc in next ch-5 sp; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join, picot.

Rnd 24: Ch 1, sl st in next 2 sc, sc in next sc, ch 7, *sk next 2 sc, sk next picot and next 2 sc, sc in next sc, ch 7; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 25: Ch 1, sc in same sc, 7 sc in ch-7 sp, *sc in next sc, picot, 7 sc in next ch-7 sp; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join, picot.

Rnd 26: Ch 1, sl st in next 3 sc, sc in next sc, ch 7, *sk next 3 sc, sk next picot and next 3 sc, sc in next sc, ch 7; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnds 27–37 (43, 47, 53): Rep Rnds 25–26, then Rnd 25.

Rnd 38 (44, 48, 54): Ch 1, sl st in next 3 sc, sc in next sc, sk next 3 sc, 7 dc in picot, *sk next 3 sc, sc in next sc, sk next 3 sc, 7 dc in picot; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 39 (45, 49, 55): Ch 1, beg v-st in first sc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc v-st in next sc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc; rep from around, sl st in first v-st to join—28 (35, 41, 48) v-sts.

Rnd 40 (46, 50, 56): Ch 3, 3 dc in first v-st, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-3 sp, *7 dc in next v-st, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-3 sp; rep from * around, 3 dc in first v-st, sl st in first dc to join.

Rnd 41 (47, 51, 57): Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, v-st in next sc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, *sc in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc, v-st in next dc, ch 3, sk next 3 dc; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 42 (48, 52, 58): Ch 1, sc in same sc, sk next ch-3 sp, 9 dc in next v-st, sk next ch-3 sp, sc in next sc, sk next ch-3 sp, 9 dc in next v-st, sk next ch-3 sp; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Neck edging:

With RS facing, join yarn with sl st in any foundation ch.

Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, sc in each foundation ch around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, rev sc (see Glossary) in each sc around, sl st in first rev sc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

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WILLOW DRESS

Laurinda Reddig

Willow enjoys climbing rocks with her daddy as much as dressing up in pretty frocks. She can do both in this reversible intarsia A-line dress worked in half double crochet. The reversible technique eliminates strands that can get caught in little fingers when putting it on, and if it gets mussed by crumpets or carabiners, it can be flipped right round. Yarn: Tahki Yarns/Tahki Cotton Classic (Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.). Page 52.

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Rating: 4

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

18 (19, 20, 22, 24)" chest circumference, to fit girl’s sizes 12 mo (18 mo, 2, 3, 5). Garment shown measures 22", modeled with 1" ease.

YARN

Tahki Yarns Tahki Cotton Classic (100% mercerized cotton; 108 yd [100 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; LIGHT): #3718 celadon (MC), 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) skeins; #3473 coral (CC), 1 (2, 2, 2, 3) skeins. Yarn distributed by Tahki-Stacy Charles Inc.

HOOK

Size E/4 (3.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

St markers (m); yarn needle; 8" length of ⅞" to 1½" wide grosgrain ribbon in similar color to MC; 2 size 10 sew-on metal snaps; needle and thread to match ribbon.

GAUGE

17 sts and 14 rows = 4" in hdc.

Notes

Dress is worked from bottom up. Bottom band is worked in spiral rnds, skirt is worked in joined, turned rnds to armhole, then bodice is split for front and back, worked in rows.

Use a separate ball or length of yarn for each section of color. Divide skeins as necessary.

Bobbins of yarn colors waiting to be used should hang on side of work facing crocheter; after a color is used, bobbin will hang at back of work.

St counts at ends of rows indicate number of sts of each color on top of row.

When joining new color, loop yarn over hook on first yo, leaving several inches to weave in.

When working a late color change, carry new color under last st of old color; on inc before color change carry under both sts; on dec before color change, carry new color under second st.

After working first st in new color, give old color yarn a gentle pull to keep lps tight.

Work in flo of late color change sts where top lps are a different color than lower st.

Unused yarns may sometimes be carried under sts to avoid extra bobbins, but only above sts of same color.

Stitch Guide

Color change (change to): Work to last lp of last st in old color, yo and complete st with new color. Bring old color forward around new color and hook and return back bet new color and hook.

Late color change (late change to): Complete last st in old color carrying new color under st, pick up new color leaving bobbin of old color to hang at back of work, and complete next st in new color. Top lp of st will be a different color than lower post of st.

Hdc-sc decrease (hdc-sc-tog): Yo, insert hook in next st, pull up lp, insert hook in next st, pull up lp, yo and draw through all 4 lps.

Hdc-sc-hdc decrease (hdc-sc-hdc-tog): Yo, insert hook in next st, pull up lp, insert hook in next st, pull up lp, yo, insert hook in next st, pull up lp, yo and draw through all 6 lps.

Diagonal shell (sh): (Sc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same st.

Pattern

Bottom band:

Note: Worked in spiral rnds, do not join until last rnd.

Set-up rnd: (RS) With CC, fhdc (see Glossary) 154 (160, 170, 180, 196). Being careful not to twist, sl st in first fhdc to join. Place unique marker (pm) in beg of rnd; move m up each rnd.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, hdc in first hdc and next 37 (39, 41, 44, 48) hdc, hdc2tog (see Glossary), pm, hdc in next 75 (78, 83, 88, 96) hdc, hdc2tog, pm, hdc around—152 (158, 168, 178, 194) hdc.

Rnd(s) 2 (2–3, 2–4, 2–5, 2–7): Ch 1, hdc in each hdc to next hdc2tog, hdc2tog; rep from , hdc around.

Rnd 3 (4, 5, 6, 8): Ch 1, hdc in each hdc to next hdc2tog, hdc2tog; rep from , hdc to last hdc, sc in last hdc, sl st in first hdc to join—148 (152, 160, 168, 180) hdc. Fasten off.

Skirt:

Note: Shaping and colorwork occur simultaneously. Foll chart (page 54) for colorwork. Join MC with sl st at center back (count 36 [37, 39, 41, 44] hdc back from first hdc2tog).

Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 1, hdc in first 36 (37, 39, 41, 44) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 43 (44, 46, 48, 52) hdc, change to CC (see Stitch Guide), hdc in next 3 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 26 (27, 29, 31, 33) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—146 (150, 158, 166, 178) hdc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, hdc in first 35 (36, 38, 40, 43) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 26 (27, 29, 31, 33) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 3 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 42 (43, 45, 47, 51) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—144 (148, 156, 164, 176) hdc.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, hdc in first 35 (36, 38, 40, 43) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 42 (43, 45, 47, 51) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 3 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 25 (26, 28, 30, 32) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—142 (146, 154, 162, 174) hdc.

Rnd 4: Ch 1, hdc in first 34 (35, 37, 39, 42) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 25 (26, 28, 30, 32) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 3 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 41 (42, 44, 46, 50) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—140 (144, 152, 160, 172) hdc.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, hdc in first 34 (35, 37, 39, 42) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 41 (42, 44, 46, 50) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 3 hdc, carrying MC under, late change to MC (see Stitch Guide), hdc in next 24 (25, 27, 29, 31) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—138 (142, 150, 158, 170) hdc.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, hdc in first 33 (34, 36, 38, 41) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 23 (24, 26, 28, 30) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 40 (41, 43, 45, 49) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—136 (140, 148, 156, 168) hdc.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, hdc in first 33 (34, 36, 38, 41) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 39 (40, 42, 44, 48) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 22 (23, 25, 27, 29) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—134 (138, 146, 154, 166) hdc.

Rnd 8: Ch 1, hdc in first 32 (33, 35, 37, 40) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 21 (22, 24, 26, 28) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 6 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 38 (39, 41, 43, 47) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—132 (136, 144, 152, 164) hdc.

Rnd 9: Ch 1, hdc in first 32 (33, 35, 37, 40) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 37 (38, 40, 42, 46) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 7 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 20 (21, 23, 25, 27) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—130 (134, 142, 150, 162) hdc.

Rnd 10: Ch 1, hdc in first 31 (32, 34, 36, 39) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 19 (20, 22, 24, 26) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 8 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 36 (37, 39, 41, 45) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—128 (132, 140, 148, 160) hdc.

Rnd 11: Ch 1, hdc in first 31 (32, 34, 36, 39) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 35 (36, 38, 40, 44) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 9 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 18 (19, 21, 23, 25) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—126 (130, 138, 146, 158) hdc.

Rnd 12: Ch 1, hdc in first 30 (31, 33, 35, 38) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 15 (16, 18, 20, 22) hdc, hdc-sc-tog (see Stitch Guide), change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, change to MC, hdc in same hdc as last hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next hdc, change to CC, hdc in same hdc as last hdc and next 3 hdc, hdc-sc-tog, late change to MC, hdc in next 32 (33, 35, 37, 41) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—124 (128, 136, 144, 156) hdc.

Rnd 13: Ch 1, hdc in first 30 (31, 33, 35, 38) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 32 (33, 35, 37, 41) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 15 (16, 18, 20, 22) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—122 (126, 134, 142, 154) hdc.

Rnd 14: Ch 1, hdc in first 29 (30, 32, 34, 37) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 14 (15, 17, 19, 21) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 31 (32, 34, 36, 40) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—120 (124, 132, 140, 152) hdc.

Rnd 15: Ch 1, hdc in first 29 (30, 32, 34, 37) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 30 (31, 33, 35, 39) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 13 (14, 16, 18, 20) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—118 (122, 130, 138, 150) hdc.

Rnd 16: Ch 1, hdc in first 28 (29, 31, 33, 36) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 12 (13, 15, 17, 19) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 2 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 29 (30, 32, 34, 38) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—116 (120, 128, 136, 148) hdc.

Rnd 17: Ch 1, hdc in first 28 (29, 31, 33, 36) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 28 (29, 31, 33, 37) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 3 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 2 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 11 (12, 14, 16, 18) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—114 (118, 126, 134, 146) hdc.

Rnd 18: Ch 1, hdc in first 27 (28, 30, 32, 35) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 10 (11, 13, 15, 17) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 3 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 3 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 27 (28, 30, 32, 36) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—112 (116, 124, 132, 144) hdc.

Rnd 19: Ch 1, hdc in first 27 (28, 30, 32, 35) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 26 (27, 29, 31, 35) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 4 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 3 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 9 (10, 12, 14, 16) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—110 (114, 122, 130, 142) hdc.

Rnd 20: Ch 1, hdc in first 26 (27, 29, 31, 34) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 8 (9, 11, 13, 15) hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 4 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 4 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 25 (26, 28, 30, 34) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—108 (112, 120, 128, 140) hdc.

Rnd 21: Ch 1, hdc in first 26 (27, 29, 31, 34) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 25 (26, 28, 30, 34) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 4 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 8 (9, 11, 13, 15) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—106 (110, 118, 126, 138) hdc.

Rnd 22: Ch 1, hdc in first 25 (26, 28, 30, 33) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 7 (8, 10, 12, 14) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 5 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 5 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 24 (25, 27, 29, 33) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—104 (108, 116, 124, 136) hdc.

Rnd 23: Ch 1, hdc in first 25 (26, 28, 30, 33) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 23 (24, 26, 28, 32) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 6 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 5 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 6 (7, 9, 11, 13) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—102 (106, 114, 122, 134) hdc.

Rnd 24: Ch 1, hdc in first 24 (25, 27, 29, 32) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 5 (6, 8, 10, 12) hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 6 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 6 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 4 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 22 (23, 25, 27, 31) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—100 (104, 112, 120, 132) hdc.

Rnd 25: Ch 1, hdc in first 24 (25, 27, 29, 32) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 22 (23, 25, 27, 31) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 3 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 7 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 6 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 3 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 5 (6, 8, 10, 12) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—98 (102, 110, 118, 130) hdc.

Rnd 26: Ch 1, hdc in first 23 (24, 26, 28, 31) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 4 (5, 7, 9, 11) hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 3 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 7 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 7 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 3 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 21 (22, 24, 26, 30) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—96 (100, 108, 116, 128) hdc.

Rnd 27: Ch 1, hdc in first 23 (24, 26, 28, 31) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 21 (22, 24, 26, 30) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 3 hdc, hdc-sc-tog, carry CC over to change to CC, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 4 hdc, carry MC under hdc in next hdc and 2 hdc in next hdc, late change to MC, hdc-sc-tog, hdc in next 3 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 4 (5, 7, 9, 11) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—94 (98, 106, 114, 126) hdc.

Rnd 28: Ch 1, hdc in first 22 (23, 25, 27, 30) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 3 (4, 6, 8, 10) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 2 hdc, hdc-sc-tog, change to CC, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, late change to MC, hdc-sc-tog, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 20 (21, 23, 25, 29) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—92 (96, 104, 112, 124) hdc.

Rnd 29: Ch 1, hdc in first 22 (23, 25, 27, 30) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 19 (20, 22, 24, 28) hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, late change to CC, hdc-sc-tog, change to MC, hdc in next 3 hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 12 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 3 hdc, late change to CC, hdc-sc-tog, change to MC, 2 hdc in next hdc, hdc in next 1 (2, 4, 6, 8) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—90 (94, 102, 110, 122) hdc.

Rnd 30: Ch 1, hdc in first 21 (22, 24, 26, 29) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 6 (7, 9, 11, 13) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 14 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 23 (24, 26, 28, 32) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—88 (92, 100, 108, 120) hdc.

Rnd 31: Ch 1, hdc in first 21 (22, 24, 26, 29) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 22 (23, 25, 27, 31) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 15 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 5 (6, 8, 10, 12) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—86 (90, 98, 106, 118) hdc.

Rnd 32: Ch 1, hdc in first 20 (21, 23, 25, 28) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 4 (5, 7, 9, 11) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 16 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 21 (22, 24, 26, 30) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—84 (88, 96, 104, 116) hdc.

Rnd 33: Ch 1, hdc in first 20 (21, 23, 25, 28) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 20 (21, 23, 25, 29) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 17 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 3 (4, 6, 8, 10) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—82 (86, 94, 102, 114) hdc.

Rnd 34: Ch 1, hdc in first 19 (20, 22, 24, 27) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 3 (4, 6, 8, 10) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 17 hdc, late change to MC, hdc in next 19 (20, 22, 24, 28) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—80 (84, 92, 100, 112) hdc.

Rnd 35: Ch 1, hdc in first 19 (20, 22, 24, 27) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 19 (20, 22, 24, 28) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, hdc-sc-tog, change to MC, 3 hdc in next hdc, late change to CC, hdc-sc-tog, hdc in next hdc; rep from , hdc in next hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 2 (3, 5, 7, 9) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—78 (82, 90, 98, 110) hdc.

Rnd 36: Ch 1, hdc in first 18 (19, 21, 23, 26) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in next 2 (3, 5, 7, 9) hdc, change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 4 hdc, late change to CC, hdc in next 2 hdc; rep from , hdc in next hdc, change to MC, hdc in next 18 (19, 21, 23, 27) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—76 (80, 88, 96, 108) hdc.

Rnd 37: Ch 1, hdc in first 38 (40, 44, 48, 55) hdc, late change to CC, hdc-sc-tog, change to MC, 2 hdc next hdc, hdc in next 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, late change to CC, hdc-sc-hdc-tog (see Stitch Guide); rep from to , hdc-sc-tog, change to MC, hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn—76 (80, 88, 96, 108) hdc.

Rnds 38–40 (41, 42, 43, 46): Ch 1, hdc in each hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join, turn. Fasten off at end of last rnd.

Front:

With WS facing, sk first 22 (23, 25, 28, 32) hdc from last rnd of body, join MC with sl st in next hdc.

Row 1: Ch 1, hdc in next 29 (31, 35, 37, 41) hdc, hdc2tog, turn—30 (32, 36, 38, 42) hdc.

Rows 2–3: Ch 1, sk first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last 2 hdc, hdc2tog, turn.

Rows 4–9 (9, 10, 11, 13): Ch 1, hdc in first hdc and each hdc across, turn—26 (28, 32, 34, 38) hdc. Do not fasten off.

First front strap:

Row 1: Ch 1, hdc in first hdc and next 7 (7, 8, 9, 11) hdc, hdc2tog, turn—9 (9, 10, 11, 13) hdc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sk first hdc, hdc in each hdc across, turn—8 (8, 9, 10, 12) hdc.

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in first hdc and next 5 hdc, hdc2tog, turn—7 (7, 8, 9, 11) hdc.

Row 4: Rep Row 2—6 (6, 7, 8, 10) hdc.

Row(s) 5 (5, 5, 5–6, 5–8): Ch 1, hdc across, turn—6 (6, 7, 8, 10) hdc. Fasten off.

Second front strap:

With WS facing, counting from last st of first row of first strap, sk next 8 (8, 9, 10, 12) unused sts, join MC with sl st in next hdc.

Row 1: Ch 1, hdc in next hdc and in each hdc across, turn—9 (9, 10, 11, 13) hdc.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first hdc and each hdc to last 2 hdc, hdc2tog, turn—8 (8, 9, 10, 12) hdc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sk first hdc, hdc across, turn—7 (7, 8, 9, 11) hdc.

Row 4: Rep Row 2—6 (6, 7, 8, 10) hdc.

Row(s) 5 (5, 5, 5–6, 5–8): Ch 1, hdc across, turn—6 (6, 7, 8, 10) hdc. Fasten off.

Back:

With WS facing, counting from last st of first row of front, sk next 3 (5, 5, 7, 9) hdc, join MC with sl st in next hdc.

Row 1: Ch 1, sk first hdc, hdc in next 31 (33, 37, 39, 43) hdc, hdc2tog, turn—32 (34, 38, 40, 44) hdc.

Rows 2–3: Ch 1, sk first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last 2 hdc, hdc2tog, turn.

Rows 4–12 (12, 13, 14, 16): Ch 1, hdc across, turn—28 (30, 34, 36, 40) hdc. Do not fasten off.

First back strap:

Rows 1–4: Rep Rows 1–4 of first front strap.

Rows 5–9 (10, 11, 12, 14): Ch 1, hdc across, turn—6 (6, 7, 8, 10) hdc.

Row 10 (11, 12, 13, 15): Ch 1, sk first hdc, hdc in each hdc to last 2 hdc, hdc2tog—4 (4, 5, 6, 8) hdc. Fasten off.

Second back strap:

With WS facing, counting from last st of first row of first strap, sk next 10 (10, 11, 12, 14) unused sts, join MC with sl st in next hdc.

Rows 1–4: Rep Rows 1– 4 of second front strap.

Rows 5–10 (11, 12, 13, 15): Work as for first back strap. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Bottom edge:

With RS facing, join CC with sl st in bottom of last st of set-up rnd of bottom edge.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in first 38 (40, 42, 45, 50) sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 76 (79, 84, 89, 99) sts, 3 sc in next st, sc around, sl st in first sc to join, do not turn—158 (164, 174, 184, 200) sc.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sh (see Stitch Guide) in first sc, sk next 2 sts, sh in next sc; rep from around, sk last 2 sts, sl st in same st as first sc. Fasten off. Note: If necessary for st count, sk only 1 st after last 1 or 2 sh.

Top edge:

Join CC with sl st in center bottom of either armhole.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around, working 2 sc in both corners of each strap, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Work Rnd 2 of bottom edge, skipping 3 sts on inside curves of neck and armholes. Fasten off.

Closures:

Cut grosgrain ribbon into 2" pieces. Use needle and thread to sew 1 part of snap to center of each piece of ribbon. Fold in raw edges of ribbon, and sew all the way around, onto edge of MC part of each strap. Attach outside ring of snap onto back strap so it will not poke the wearer. For wider ribbon, fold corners under to fit better in the curved edge of strap. Weave in ends. Block.

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BLOSSOM HAIR CLIPS

Karen Hooton

These blossoms, with or without picots, twinkle in a little girl’s hair just like the blooms that adorn the tresses of little garden fairies. Yarn: DMC Perlé Cotton sizes 8 and 12. Page 58.

______________________________

Rating: 2

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

3½–7" across, depending on thread, tension, and crochet hook used.

YARN

DMC Perlé Cotton size 8 (100% mercerized cotton; 87 yd [80 m]/½ oz [14 g]; LACE): plum, 1 ball.

DMC Perlé Cotton size 12 (100% mercerized cotton; 131 yd [120 m]/½ oz [14 g]; LACE): lilac, 1 ball.

HOOK

Size 7 (1.65 mm) steel hook for size 8 thread, size 9 (1.4 mm) steel hook for size 12 thread.

NOTIONS

St marker(s); small yarn needle; 2 barrettes; assorted beads or shank back buttons.

GAUGE

Size 8 thread = 2–2½"; size 12 thread = 1½–1¾". Gauge is not critical.

Notes

Rnds 1–7 are the same for all variations; instructions for different petal shapes foll.

When pulling up lps for petals, a crochet hook handle can be used to pull up and hold lps of an even diameter. Hook sizes 7 to 10 mm are recommended for best effect. Double-pointed knitting needles can also be used.

Stitch Guide

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.

Pattern

Make an adjustable ring.

Rnd 1: (RS) Ch 3, 23 dc in ring, sl st in blo of 3rd ch of beg ch to join—24 dc.

Rnds 2–3: Ch 1, working blo, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st in blo of first sc to join, turn—24 sc.

Rnd 4: Working in free lps of Rnd 2, ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st in first sc to join—24 sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: With RS facing and working in free lps of Rnd 1, join with sl st in any st, ch 1, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st in blo of first sc to join—24 sc.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, working in blo, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st blo of first sc to join, turn—24 sc.

Rnd 7: Working in free lps of Rnd 5, sc in same st and in each st around, sl st in first sc to join—24 sc. Fasten off.

Petal option 1:

Sc petals:

For each layer, with RS facing throughout, lps are picked up in each sc on on rnd instructed (see Notes). Pull lps up to uniform height, then place lps on st marker to hold for working on next rnd.

Base layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sl st, 17 sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sl st, 17 sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

On foll 3 layers, pick up lps beg in front center of any petal on previous layer so that petals are staggered.

Third layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sl st, 15 sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sl st, 15 sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Second layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sl st, 13 sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sl st, 13 sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Top layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sl st, 11 sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sl st, 11 sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Petal option 2:

Sc petals with picots:

For each layer, with RS facing throughout, lps are picked up in each sc on on rnd instructed (see Notes). Pull lps up to uniform height, then place lps on st marker to hold for working on next rnd.

Base layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sl st, 8 sc, picot [see Stitch Guide], 8 sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sl st, 8 sc, picot, 8 sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Third layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sl st, 7 sc, picot, 7 sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sl st, 7 sc, picot, 7 sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Second layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sl st, 6 sc, picot, 6 sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sl st, 6 sc, picot, 6 sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Top layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sl st, 5 sc, picot, 5 sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sl st, 5 sc, picot, 5 sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Petal option 3:

Full petals:

For each layer, with RS facing throughout, lps are picked up in each sc on on rnd instructed (see Notes). Pull lps up to uniform height, then place lps on st marker to hold for working on next rnd.

Base layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sc, esc [see Glossary], 3 dc, 7 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 7 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Third layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 5 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 5 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Second layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 3 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 3 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Top layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 1 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Petal option 4:

Full petals with picots:

For each layer, with RS facing throughout, lps are picked up in each sc on on rnd instructed (see Notes). Pull lps up to uniform height, then place lps on st marker to hold for working on next rnd.

Base layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sc, esc [see Glossary], 3 dc, 4 tr, picot [see Stitch Guide], 3 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 4 tr, picot, 3 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Third layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 3 tr, picot, 2 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 3 tr, picot, 2 tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Second layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 2 tr, picot, tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, 2 tr, picot, tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

Top layer:

Insert hook through first 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, tr, picot, tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps (petal made), insert hook in next 3 lps, (sc, esc, 3 dc, tr, picot, tr, 3 dc, esc, sc) in lps; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join—8 petals.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block. Attach to barrette, or use to decorate as desired.

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CHARLOTTE DRESS

Kathy Merrick

Charlotte has long outgrown the fancy smocked dresses that her mother used to make for her, but the sentiment lives on in a wee pretty dress with trims and buttons. The gray and yellow combination lends an air of sophistication to this girly dress with inserts and contrast edges. Yarn: Madelinetosh Tosh Sock. Page 60.

______________________________

Rating: 2

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

21½ (23, 25, 26½)" chest circumference, to fit 2T (4T, 6, 8). Garment shown measures 21½", modeled with ½" ease.

YARN

Madelinetosh Tosh Sock (100% superwash merino; 395 yd [361 m]/4 oz [114 g]; SUPERFINE): celadon (MC), 2 (2, 2, 3) skeins; winter wheat (CC), 1 skein.

HOOK

Size D/3 (3.25 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain gauge.

NOTIONS

Yarn needle; one ⅜" button.

GAUGE

21 sts and 12 rows = 4" in dc.

Notes

Front and back are worked separately from bottom up and seamed tog. Sleeves are worked into armholes.

Turning ch do not count as sts.

Stitch Guide

Dctr2tog: Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook.

Trdc2tog: Yo 2 times, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times, yo and insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook.

Insert patt (worked over 11 sts):

Row 1: (RS) Ch 1, sk 1 st, (dc, ch 2, tr) in next st, sk 3 sts, dc in next st, sk 3 sts, (tr, ch 2, dc) in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st.

Row 2: Ch 1, sk 1 st, dctr2tog (see above) over dc and tr of prev row, ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 3, trdc2tog (see above) over tr and dc of prev row, ch 1, sk 1 st.

Rep Rows 1–2 for patt.

Pattern

BACK

With MC, ch 72 (76, 80, 84).

Row 1: (RS) Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—69 (73, 77, 81) dc.

Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count as st), dc across, turn.

Work 3 (3, 5, 5) more rows even in dc.

Next row: (WS) Ch 1, sc flo across, turn.

Beg insert:

Row 1 (dec): (RS) Ch 3, dc in first st, dc2tog (see Glossary), dc in next 10 (11, 12, 13) sts, work Row 1 of insert patt (see Stitch Guide) over next 11 sts, dc in next 21 (23, 25, 27) sts, work Row 1 of insert patt over next 11 sts, dc in next 10 (11, 12, 13) sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn—67 (71, 75, 79) sts.

Rows 2–4: Work even in dc and insert patt as est.

Row 5 (dec): Ch 3, dc in first st, dc2tog, work to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn—2 sts dec’d.

Rows 6–17: Rep Rows 2–5 three times—59 (63, 67, 71) sts rem.

Rows 18–24: Work even in patt as est.

Row 25: Rep Row 5—57 (61, 65, 69) sts rem.

Rows 26–32 (32, 36, 36): Work even in patt as est.

Row 33 (33, 37, 37): (RS) Ch 1, sc blo across. Fasten off.

Right back:

Shape armhole:

With WS facing, sk 4 (4, 5, 5) sts, join MC with sl st in next st.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, dc2tog 2 times, dc in next 19 (21, 22, 24) sts, dc blo in next st, turn leaving rem sts unworked—23 (25, 26, 28) sts.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc across, turn.

Rows 4–7: Rep Rows 2–3 two times—20 (22, 23, 25) sts rem.

Work even in dc until armhole measures 4½ (5, 5½, 6)", ending with a WS row.

Shape neck:

Next row: (RS) Ch 3, dc in first 10 (11, 12, 13) sts. Fasten off, leaving rem sts unworked.

Left back:

Shape armhole:

With WS facing, join MC with sl st flo in center st (same st as dc blo was worked).

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, dc to last 5 sts, dc2tog 2 times, dc in last st, turn—23 (25, 26, 28) sts.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in first st, dc2tog, dc across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc across, turn.

Rows 4–7: Rep Rows 2–3 two times—20 (22, 23, 25) sts rem.

Work even until armhole matches right back, ending with a WS row.

Shape neck:

Next row: (RS) Sl st in first 10 (11, 11, 12) sts, ch 3, dc in each st to end. Fasten off.

FRONT

With MC, work as for back to armhole.

Shape armholes:

With WS facing, sk 4 (4, 5, 5) sts, join MC with sl st in next st.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in first st, dc2tog 2 times, dc in next 14 (16, 17, 19) sts, work Row 2 of insert patt over next 11 sts, dc in next 14 (16, 17, 19) sts, dc2tog 2 times, dc in last st, turn—45 (49, 51, 55) sts.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in first st, dc2tog, work in dc and insert patt as est to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn.

Row 3: Work even in patt as est.

Rows 4–7: Rep Rows 2–3 two times—39 (43, 45, 49) sts rem.

Work even until armholes measure 2½ (3, 3½, 4)", ending with a WS row.

Shape left neck:

Row 1: (RS) Work to 3 (4, 4, 5) sts before insert, dc2tog, dc in next st, turn leaving rem sts unworked—13 (14, 15, 16) sts.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in first st, dc2tog, dc across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2—10 (11, 12, 13) sts rem. Work even until armhole matches back armholes. Fasten off.

Shape right neck:

With RS facing, join MC with sl st in first (2nd, 2nd, 3rd) st after insert.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, dc2tog, dc across, turn—13 (14, 15, 16) sts.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc to last 3 sts, dc2tog, dc in last st, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, dc in first st, dc2tog, dc across, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2—10 (11, 12, 13) sts rem. Work even until armhole matches back armholes. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY

Join shoulders using a sl st seam (see Glossary). Sew side seams.

Neck edging:

With RS facing, join CC at left center back at bottom of opening, sc evenly up back opening, work (sc, ch 4, sc) for buttonhole in upper left corner, sc evenly across back neck, down left front neck, across insert, up right front neck, across back neck, work 3 sc in upper right corner, sc evenly down right back opening. Fasten off.

Cap sleeves (make 2):

With RS facing, join MC at center st of underarm.

Rnd 1: Work 5 (5, 6, 6) sc, 5 (5, 6, 6) hdc, 5 (6, 6, 7) dc, 5 (6, 6, 7) tr, 15 (15, 18, 18) dtr (see Glossary), 5 (6, 6, 7) tr, 5 (6, 6, 7) dc, 5 (5, 6, 6) hdc, 5 (5, 6, 6) sc evenly around armhole, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Rep Rnd 1, working each st same as st below.

Rnd 3: Change to CC, ch 1, sc around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Yoke trim:

With RS facing and bottom edge of dress facing away, join CC to left side seam at yoke to work in free lps from Row 33 (33, 37, 37) of body.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, working in free lps, sc in each st around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Hem trim:

With RS facing and bottom edge facing away, join CC to left side seam to work in rem free lps.

Note: Adjust number of sc bet ch-3 lps if the number of free lps is not an exact multiple of 5.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, ch 3; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, 5 dc in next ch-3 lp; rep from around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next 2 dc, (sc, ch 3, sc) in next dc, sc in next 2 dc; rep from around, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Sew button opposite buttonhole. Weave in ends. Block to finished measurements.

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PARENTHOOK: APRON STRINGS

Vickie Howell

This motherhood thing is a full-time gig. Regardless of your situation—stay at home or go to an office, with child care or without child care, traditional family or nontraditional family—moms are always on parental alert. It’s the hardest, most rewarding job we’ll ever have. It’s also a veritable juggling act. To be truly successful at it, one of those balls in the air needs to be time spent nurturing the creative soul. Creativity is at the very heart of being a mom—it requires the same ebb and flow of ideas that’s crucial to surviving the ups and downs of raising well-rounded children. Producing something positive to put out into the world, even if it seems inconsequential, is good for the psyche. It’s a physical manifestation of the time and care we put into every breath of the day. It makes us smile—and you know what they say: “If Mama’s happy, then everyone’s happy!” Enter, crochet.

It may seem frivolous to carve out part of an already overpacked day to get crafty. Trust me, I feel ya on this one! That’s why I suggest that you simply integrate crochet into your lifestyle by not only taking minutes here and there (for instance, in waiting rooms and on soccer-game sidelines) to stitch, but also by making projects that are relatively quick and ultimately serve a purpose (especially if that purpose is solely to put a bright spot in your day).

In this issue I give nod to one of the many duties of parents: cooking. Whether or not you love being in the kitchen (most days I fall into the “not” category), preparing food for our families is an everyday reality. What goes better with dinner-making than a sweet little apron? Nothing, I say! (Well, except for a glass of wine. But I digress.) My version is made with Bernat Handicrafter Cotton for both durability and washability. I went with bold, pop colors and hexagonal shaping to make it feel modern, but kept it cocktail-style to add a bit of vintage kitsch. Oh, and bonus: the double-crochet rows will make the project move quickly so you just might be able to wear it by end-of-the-week dinnertime.

Have fun and enjoy!

Vickie

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APRON STRINGS

Vickie Howell

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

About 16½" long.

YARN

Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (100% cotton; 80 yd [73 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; MEDIUM): Robin’s egg #13215 (A), 4 balls; hot green # 13712 (B), 2 balls.

HOOK

Size G/7 (4.5 mm) Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

GAUGE

12 dc and 7 rows = 4".

Stitch Guide

3 double crochet cluster (3 dc-cl): [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times in same st, yo and draw through rem lps on hook.

Pattern

Half hexagon:

With B, ch 2.

Row 1: 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook, turn.

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), 3 dc-cl (see Stitch Guide), [ch 5, 3 dc-cl, ch 3, 3 dc-cl] 2 times, ch 5, 3 dc-cl, ch 1, dc in last sc, turn. Change to A.

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, [(3 dc-cl, ch 3, 3 dc-cl) in ch-5 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 1] 2 times, (3 dc-cl, ch-3, 3 dc-cl) in ch-5 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, turn.

Row 4: Ch 3, dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc-cl, ch 3, 3 dc-cl) in next ch-3 sp, ch-1, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next three dc, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1*; rep from to *, [3 dc-cl, ch 3, 3 dc-cl] in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in last 2 dc. Change to B.

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in each dc and ch-sp to next cl, ch 1, (3 dc-cl, ch 3, 3 dc-cl) in next ch-3 sp, ch-1; rep from 2 times, dc in each ch-sp and dc to end, turn. Cont in 2-row stripe patt, rep Row 5 until piece measures about 14" (or desired length) from center top edge to bottom center point, ending with A on a WS row. Do not fasten off.

Cont with A.

Next Row: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, sc in next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook; rep from to end. Fasten off.

Top band:

Row 1: (RS) Join A at top-right corner of straight edge of half-hexagon, ch 2 (counts as first hdc), work 79 hdc evenly across row ends, turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, [FPhdc (see Glossary), BPhdc (see Glossary] across, ending with hdc in last st.

Rep Row 2 until band measures 2½" wide. Fasten off.

Apron ties:

Row 1: Join A at side corner of top band, ch 2, work 7 hdc across row-ends, turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, hdc across.

Rep Row 2 until tie measures 28” or desired length. Fasten off.

Rep for opposite side.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block.

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SWAN LAKE SHAWL

Lily Chin

Bruges, in Belgium, is known for its grand tradition of gorgeous bobbin lace. With Bruges crochet, an echo of bobbin lace, a long strip of double crochet is joined to other parts of the strip with chains and slip stitches at the beginning of each row as the strip dances to and fro. The slow striping yarn takes full advantage of the twists and turns that the strip makes. Yarn: Crystal Palace Yarns Mini-Mochi. Page 80.

______________________________

Rating: 4

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

74" wide, 25" long with top trim.

YARN

Crystal Palace Yarns Mini-Mochi (80% machine washable merino, 20% nylon; 195 yd [180 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; SUPERFINE): #312 seafoam, 5 skeins.

HOOK

Size E/4 (3.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

GAUGE

One 5-dc strip with ch-7 lps on either side = 2"; 20 dc and 10 dc rows = 4" after steam blocking.

Notes

Shawl is worked sideways from tip to tip, joining edges of Bruges lace as you go. Top strip curves up from tip and is worked and joined along top edge of shawl, curving joining to first row worked.

Rows of dc are worked to form a narrow tape. Ch lps appear on each end of alternating rows and these are designated A and B to simplify keeping track of which side of tape you are working. A single row never has a ch lp on both ends. When working single joins, as the row count increases by two, the row number of the joined lp decreases by two; for example; Row 43A joins to Row 29A, Row 45A joins to Row 27A, Row 47A joins to Row 25A, and so on. See st diagram for assistance.

Stitch Guide

Arch join: Ch 3, insert hook through next 5 ch-7 lps, using 5 row-A lps if on side A of tape and using 5 row-B lps if on side B of tape, sl st to join all lps tog, ch 3, turn, dc in each dc across tape.

Single join: Ch 3, sl st in indicated ch-7 lp of adjacent length of tape, ch 3, turn, dc in each dc across tape.

Pattern

SHAWL

Joined Tape:

Row 1A: Ch 12, dc in 8th ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—ch-7 lp and 5 dc.

Row 2B: Ch 7, dc in each dc across, turn—ch-7 lp and 5 dc.

Rows 3A–12B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 13A: Arch join (see Stitch Guide) with Rows 11A, 9A, 7A, 5A and 3A.

Row 14B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 15A: Single join (see Stitch Guide) to Row 1A.

Rows 16B–23A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 24B: Arch join with Rows 22B, 20B, 18B, 16B and 14B.

Row 25A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 26B: Single join to Row 12B.

Rows 27A–40B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 41A: Arch join with Rows 39A, 37A, 35A, 33A and 31A.

Row 42B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 43A: Single join to Row 29A.

Row 44B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 45A: Single join to Row 27A.

Row 46B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 47A: Single join to Row 25A.

Row 48B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 49A: Single join to Row 23A, ch 3, turn, dc in each dc across.

Row 50B–57A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 58B: Arch join with Rows 56B, 54B, 52B, 50B and 48B.

Row 59A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 60B: Single join to Row 46B.

Row 61A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 62B: Single join to Row 44B.

Row 63A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 64B: Single join to Row 42B.

Row 65A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 66B: Single join to Row 40B.

Rows 67A– 80B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 81A: Arch join with Rows 79A, 77A, 75A, 73A and 71A,

Row 82B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 83A: Single join to Row 69A.

Row 84B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 85A: Single join to Row 67A.

Row 86B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 87A: Single join to Row 65A.

Row 88B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 89A: Single join to Row 63A.

Row 90B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 91A: Single join to Row 61A.

Row 92B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 93A: Single join to Row 59A.

Row 94B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 95A: Single join to Row 57A.

Rows 96B–103A: Rep Row 2B.

Cont in est patt as foll:

Note: There are 1, 4, 7, 10, 13, 16, 19, 22, 24, then 25 single joins per strip bet turns before patt reverses itself.

Row 104B: Arch join with Rows 102B, 100B, 98B, 96B and 94B.

Single join Rows 106B–118B to Rows 92B–80B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 119A–132B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 133A: Arch join with Rows 131A, 129A, 127A, 125A, 123A.

Single join Rows 135A–153A to Rows 121A–103A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 154B–161A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 162B: Arch join with Rows 160B, 158B, 156B, 154B, 152B.

Single join Rows 164B–182B to Rows 150B–132B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 183A–196B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 197A: Arch join with Rows 195A, 193A, 191A, 189A, 187A.

Single join Rows 199A–223A to Rows 185A–161A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 224B–231A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 232B: Arch join with Rows 230B, 228B, 226B, 224B, 222B.

Single join Rows 234B–258B to Rows 220B–196B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 259A–272B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 273A: Arch join with Rows 271A, 269A, 267A, 265A, 263A.

Single join Rows 275A–305A to Rows 261A–231A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 306B–313A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 314B: Arch join with Rows 312B, 310B, 308B, 306B, 304B.

Single join Rows 316B–346B to Rows 302B–272B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 345A–360B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 361A: Arch join with Rows 359A, 357A, 355A, 353A, 351A.

Single join Rows 363A–399A to Rows 349A–313A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 400B–407A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 408B: Arch join with Rows 406B, 404B, 402B, 400B, 398B.

Single join Rows 410B–446B to Rows 396B–360B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 447A–460B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 461A: Arch join with Rows 459A, 457A, 455A, 453A, 451A.

Single join Rows 463A–505A to Rows 449A–407A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 506B–513A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 514B: Arch join with Rows 512B, 510B, 508B, 506B, 504B.

Single join Rows 516B–558B to Rows 502B–460B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 559A–570B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 571A: Arch join with Rows 569A, 567A, 565A, 563A, 561A.

Single join Rows 573A–619A to Rows 559A–513A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 620B–627A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 628B: Arch join with Rows 626B, 624B, 622B, 620B, 618B.

Single join Rows 630B–676B to Rows 616B–570B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 677A–686B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 687A: Arch join with Rows 685A, 683A, 681A, 679A, 677A.

Single join Rows 689A–737A to Rows 675A–627A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 734B–745A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 746B: Arch join with Rows 744B, 742B, 740B, 738B, 736B.

Single join Rows 748B–794B to Rows 734B–688B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 795A–802B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 803A: Arch join with Rows 801A, 799A, 797A, 795A, 793A.

Single join Rows 805A–851A to Rows 791A–745A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 852B–859A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 860B: Arch join with Rows 858B, 856B, 854B, 852B, 850B.

Single join Rows 862B–904B to Rows 848B–806B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 905A–912B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 913A: Arch join with Rows 911A, 909A, 907A, 905A, 903A.

Single join Rows 915A–957A to Rows 901A–859A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 956B–965A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 966B: Arch join with Rows 964B, 962B, 960B, 958B , 956B.

Single join Rows 968B–1004B to Rows 954B– 918B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1005A–1012B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1013A: Arch join with Rows 1011A, 1009A, 1007A, 1005A, 1003A.

Single join Rows 1015A–1051A to Rows 1001A–965A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1052B–1059A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1060B: Arch join with Rows 1058B, 1056B, 1054B, 1052B, 1050B.

Single join Rows 1062B–1092B to Rows 1048B–1018B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1093A–1100B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1101A: Arch join with Rows 1099A, 1097A, 1095A, 1093A, 1091A.

Single join Rows 1103A–1133A to Rows 1089A–1059A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1134B–1141A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1142B: Arch join with Rows 1140B, 1138B, 1136B, 1134B, 1132B.

Single join Rows 1144B–1168B to Rows 1130B–1106B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1169A–1176B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1177A: Arch join with Rows 1175A, 1173A, 1171A, 1169A, 1167A.

Single join Rows 1179A–1203A to Rows 1165A–1141A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1204B–1211A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1212B: Arch join with Rows 1210B, 1208B, 1206B, 1204B, 1202B.

Single join Rows 1214B–1232B to Rows 1200B–1182B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1233A–1240B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1241A: Arch join with Rows 1239A, 1237A, 1235A, 1233A, 1231A.

Single join Rows 1243A–1261A to Rows 1229A–1211A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1262B–1269A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1270B: Arch join with Rows 1268B, 1266B, 1264B, 1262B, 1260B.

Single join Rows 1272B–1284B to Rows 1258B–1246B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1285A–1292B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1293A: Arch join with Rows 1291A, 1289A, 1287A, 1285A, 1283A.

Single join Rows 1295A–1307A to Rows 1281A–1269A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1308B–1315A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1316B: Arch join with Rows 1314B, 1312B, 1310B, 1308B, 1306B.

Single join Rows 1318B–1324B to Rows 1304B–1298B, working alternating A rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1325A–1332B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1333A: Arch join with Rows 1331A, 1329A, 1327A, 1325A, 1323A.

Single join Rows 1335A–1341A to Rows 1321A–1315A, working alternating B rows as Row 2B.

Rows 1342B–1349A: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1350B: Arch join with Rows 1348B, 1346B, 1344B, 1342B, 1340B.

Row 1351A: Rep Row 2B. Single join Rows 1352B to 1338B.

Rows 1353A–1360B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1361A: Arch join with Rows 1359A, 1357A, 1355A, 1353A, 1351A.

Row 1362B: Rep Row 2B.

Single join Rows 1363A to 1349A.

Top Trim:

Row 1364B: Rep Row 2B.

Row 1365A: Ch 4, sl st in next ch-7 lp of Row 1347A, ch 4, turn, dc in each dc across, turn.

Row 1366B–1369A: Rep prev 2 rows two times.

*Next B Row and all B rows: Rep Row 2B.

Next A row: Ch 1, sl st in next ch-7 lp, ch 1, turn, dc in each dc across**.

Next A row: Ch 3, sl st in next ch-7 lp, ch 3, turn, dc in each dc across.

Next A row: Ch 5, sl st in sl-st join bet next 2 ch-7 lps, ch 5, turn, dc in each dc across.

Next A row: Ch 3, sl st in next ch-7 lp, ch 3, turn, dc in each dc across.

Rep from across top ending at *.

Next A row: Ch 4, sl st in next ch-7 lp, ch 4, turn, dc in each dc across.

Next 2 A rows: Ch 4, sl st in same ch-7 lp as before, ch 4, turn, dc in each dc across.

Work one B row. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Sew top of last dc row to foundation ch to complete strip.

Weave in ends. Steam block.

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PROMENADE SHAWL

Kathryn White

Motifs are joined as you go to shape this triangular shawl, with pearl-studded flowers strolling among the panels. A splendid edging finishes the elegant look. Yarn: Manos del Uruguay Serena (Fairmount Fibers). Page 82.

______________________________

Rating: 3

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

69" wide, 32" long.

YARN

Manos del Uruguay Serena (60% alpaca, 40% cotton; 170 yd [155 m] /1¾ oz [50 g]; FINE): #s2302 english (MC), 5 skeins; #s2680 sea urchin (A), s2334 mineral (B), 1 skein each. Yarn distributed by Fairmount Fibers.

HOOK

Size E/4 (3.5 mm) Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

Yarn needle; strand of forty-five 4 mm pearl beads; thread for sewing on beads; bead sewing needle.

GAUGE

Motif = 3" square before blocking.

Notes

Work in ends as you go.

On foundation row of top edging, do not dc in ch-7 sps on full motifs.

Stitch Guide

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in top of indicated st.

Triple picot: Ch 3, sl st in front lp at top of last st made and front strand of same st, ch 4, sl st in same st and front lp of first ch-3 lp, ch 3, sl st in same st and front lps of first ch-3 lp and ch-4 lp.

Mixed cluster at beg of rnd (beg-mcl): Ch 2, yo, insert hook from front to back to front around post of st to be worked, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo and working behind post st just made, insert hook in top of same st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo and draw through all lps on hook.

Mixed cluster (mcl): Yo, insert hook in st to be worked, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook, yo, insert hook from front to back to front around post of same st, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through first 2 lps on hook; rep from to , yo, draw through all lps on hook.

Mixed treble cluster (mtrcl): Yo 2 times, insert hook in st to be worked, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times, yo, insert hook from front to back to front around post of same st, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times; rep from to , yo, draw through all lps on hook.

Beginning cluster (beg-cl): Ch 2, [yo, insert hook in st to be worked, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through first 2 lps on hook] 2 times, yo and draw through all rem lps on hook.

Cluster (cl): [Yo, insert hook in st to be worked, yo and pull up lp, yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times, yo and draw through all rem lps on hook.

2-tr cluster (2tr-cl):[Yo 2 times, insert hook in st, yo and pull up lp, (yo and draw through 2 lps) 2 times] 2 times, yo, draw through all rem lps on hook.

4tr-cl (4tr-cl): [Yo 2 times, insert hook in st, yo and pull up lp, (yo and draw through 2 lps) 2 times] 4 times.

Motif A:

With MC, ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as dc throughout), 15 dc in ring, sl st in top of beg ch-2 to join—16 dc.

Rnd 2: Beg-mcl (see above), picot (see above) in top of mixed cl just made, ch 4, sk next dc, mtrcl (see above), picot in top of mtrcl just made, ch 4, sk next dc, mcl (see above) in next dc, picot in top of mcl just made, ch 4, sk next dc, mtrcl in next dc, picot in top of mtrcl just made; rep from to around, ending with ch 2, hdc in top of first beg-mcl to join—4 mcl, 4 mtrcl, 8 ch-4 sps.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same ch-sp, picot in sc just made, sc in same ch-sp, ch 5, 2 sc in next ch-4 sp, picot in last sc made, sc in same sp, ch 9, 2 sc in next ch-4 sp, picot in last sc made, sc in same sp, ch 5, 2 sc in next ch-4 sp, picot in last sc made, sc in same sp, ch 9, 2 sc in next ch-4 sp, picot in last sc made; rep from to around, ending with sl st in first ch of rnd—24 sc, 8 picot, 4 ch-5 sps, 4 ch-9 sps.

Rnd 4: Sl st to center of next ch-5 sp, sl st in same sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 7, sc in next ch-9 sp, ch 7, sc in same sp, ch 7, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 7, sc in next ch-9 sp, ch 7, sc in same sp, ch 7; rep from to around, ending with sl st in first ch to join—12 ch-7 sps. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Motif B (joined on one side):

Work as for motif A through Rnd 3.

Rnd 4: Sl st to center of next ch-5 sp, sl st in same sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 7, [sc in next ch-9 sp, ch 7, sc in same sp, ch 7, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 7] 2 times, sc in next ch-9 sp, ch 3, sc in ch-7 sp on corner of adjacent motif, working toward next corner, ch 3, sc in same ch-9 sp on working motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-7 sp on adjacent motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp on working motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-7 sp on adjacent motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-9 sp, ch 7, sc in same sp, ch 7, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Motif C (joined on two sides):

Work as for motif A through Rnd 3.

Rnd 4: Sl st to center of next ch-5 sp, sl st in same sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 7, sc in next ch-9 sp, ch 7, sc in same sp, ch 7, sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 7, sc in next ch-9 sp, [ch 3, sc in ch-7 sp on corner of adjacent motif, working toward next corner, ch 3, sc in same ch-9 sp on working motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-7 sp on adjacent motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-5 sp on working motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-7 sp on adjacent motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-9 sp on working motif] 2 times, ch 7, sc in same sp, ch 7, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Half motifs:

Half motif D (joined on two sides):

With MC, ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as dc throughout), 8 dc in ring, ch 4, turn—9 dc.

Row 2: Mtrcl in last dc of previous rnd, picot, [ch 4, sk next dc, mcl in next dc, picot, ch 4, sk next dc, mtrcl in next dc, picot] 2 times, ch 1, tr in same st, ch 9, turn—3 mtrcl, 2 mcl, 1 tr, 2 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-4 sps.

Row 3: 2 sc in next ch-4 sp, picot in last sc made, sc in same sp, ch 5, 2 sc in next ch-4 sp, picot in last sc made, sc in same sp, ch 9, 2 sc in next ch-4 sp, picot in last sc made, sc in same sp, ch 5, 2 sc in next ch-4 sp, picot in last sc made, sc in same sp, ch 4, tr in 3rd ch of ch-4 at beg of prev rnd, turn—12 sc, 4 picot, 3 ch-9 sps, 2 ch-5 sps.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in ch-4 sp, ch 3, sc in ch-7 sp of adjacent motif, ch 3, sc in same ch-9 sp on working half motif, [ch 3, sc in next ch-7 sp on adjacent motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-sp on working half motif] 2 times, ch 3, sc in corner ch-7 sp of adjacent motifs, ch 3, sc in same ch-9 sp on working half motif; rep from . Fasten off.

Half motif E (joined on one side):

Work Rows 1–3 of Half motif D.

Row 4: Ch 1, (sc, ch 7, sc) in first ch-9 sp, [ch 7, sc in next ch-sp] 2 times, ch 3, sc in corner ch-7 sp of adjacent motifs, ch 3, sc in same ch-9 sp on working half motif, [ch 3, sc in next ch-7 sp on adjacent motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-sp on working half motif] 2 times, ch 3, sc in corner ch-7 sp of adjacent motif, ch 3, sc in same ch-9 sp on working half motif. Fasten off.

Half motif F (joined on one side):

Work Rows 1–3 of Half motif D.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in ch-9 sp, ch 3, sc in ch-7 sp of adjacent motif, ch 3, sc in same ch-9 sp on working half motif, *[ch 3, sc in next ch-7 sp on adjacent motif, ch 3, sc in next ch-sp on working half motif] 2 times, ch 3, sc in corner ch-7 sp of adjacent motifs, ch 3, sc in same ch-9 sp on working half motif, [ch 7, sc in next ch-sp on working half motif] 2 times, ch 7, sc in same ch-9 sp. Fasten off.

Pattern

SHAWL

Using placement diagram for motifs, beg at bottom point of triangle, making motif A, working across, use either motif B or C as needed according to chart until there are 10 motifs across top edge of shawl. Work half motif D across top edge of shawl. Use motifs E and F to complete points of triangle.

Side edging:

Row 1: (WS) Join with sl st in ch-7 sp on corner of half motif E and working toward motif A at bottom of shawl, (ch 1, sc, ch 7, sc) in same sp, [(ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp) 2 times, ch 7, sc in motif join] 10 times, [ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp] 3 times, ch 7, sc in same sp, [(ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp) 3 times, ch 7, sc in motif join] 10 times, [ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp] 3 times, ch 3, tr in same sp—68 ch-7 sps, 1 ch-3-tr sp, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc around tr just made, ch 7, sc in same sp, [ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp] 34 times, ch 7, sc in same sp, [ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp] 34 times, ch 3, tr in same sp, ch 1, turn—70 ch-7 sps, 1 ch-3-tr sp.

Row 3: Sc around tr just made, ch 7, sc in same sp, [ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp] 35 times, ch 7, sc in same sp, [ch 7, sc in next ch-7 sp] 35 times, ch 3, tr in same sp, ch 4, turn—72 ch-7 sps, 1 ch-3-tr sp.

Row 4: (Dc, ch 2, dc) in same sp, ch 2, 5 sc in next ch-7 sp, [ch 2, (dc, [ch 2, dc] 3 times) in next ch-7 sp, ch 2, 5 sc in next ch-7 sp] 17 times, ch 2, (dc, [ch 2, dc] 5 times) in next ch-7 sp, ch 2, 5 sc in next ch-7 sp, [ch 2, (dc, [ch 2, dc] 3 times) in next ch-7 sp, ch 2, 5 sc in next ch-7 sp] 17 times, ch 2, dc in ch-7 sp at end of prev row, [ch 2, dc in same sp] 2 times, ch 1, turn—180 sc, 148 dc, 183 ch-2 sps.

Row 5: Sc in same dc, ch 3, sc in ch-2 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 2 times, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc, [sc in next ch-2 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp) 4 times, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 17 times, sc in next ch-2 sp, [ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp] 6 times, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc, [sc in next ch-2 sp, (ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp) 4 times, sk next sc, sc in next 3 sc] 17 times, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-2 sp, turn—293 sc, 148 ch-3 sps.

Row 6: Beg-cl (see Stitch Guide), ch 3, cl (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc, [ch 2, (cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 4 times, ch 2, sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc] 17 times, ch 2, [cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 3] 6 times, ch 2, sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc, [ch 2, (cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 3) 4 times, ch 2, sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc] 17 times, ch 2, cl in next ch-3 sp, [ch 3, cl in next ch-3 sp] 2 times, ch 1, turn—148 cl, 111 ch-3 sps, 75 ch-2 sps.

Row 7: Sc in top of last cl of previous row, ch 4, 4tr-cl (see Stitch Guide) in next ch-3 sp, ch 4, sc in top of next cl, ch 2, cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sc in top of next cl, ch 2, [sc in top of first cl on next point, ch 2, cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sc in top of next cl, ch 4, 4tr-cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 4, sc in top of next cl, ch 2, cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sc in top of next cl, ch 2] 17 times, sc in top of first cl on next point, ch 2, cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, [sc in top of next cl, ch 4, 4tr-cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 4] 3 times, sc in top of next cl, ch 2, cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sc in top of next cl, ch 2, [sc in top of first cl on next point, ch 2, cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sc in top of next cl, ch 4, 4tr-cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 4, sc in top of next cl, ch 2, cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sc in top of next cl, ch 2] 17 times, sc in top of first cl on next point, ch 2, cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, sc in top of next cl, ch 4, 4tr-cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 4, sc in top of last cl of previous row, ch 1, turn—78 ch-4 sps, 142 ch-2 sps, 39 4tr-cl, 72 cl.

Row 8: 5 sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in next cl, triple picot (see Stitch Guide) in top of last sc made, sc in same cl, 5 sc in next ch-4 sp, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next cl, picot in last sc made, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, [3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in top of next cl, picot in last sc made, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, 5 sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in top of next cl, triple picot in last sc made, sc in same cl, 5 sc in next ch-4 sp, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next cl, picot in last sc made, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp] 17 times, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in top of next cl, picot in last sc made, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, [5 sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in top of next cl, triple picot in last sc made, sc in same cl, 5 sc in next ch-4 sp] 3 times, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next cl, picot in last sc made, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp, [3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in top of next cl, picot in last sc made, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, 5 sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in top of next cl, triple picot in last sc made, sc in same cl, 5 sc in next ch-4 sp, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next cl, picot in last sc made, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in next ch-2 sp] 17 times, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, sc in top of next cl, picot in last sc made, 3 sc in next ch-2 sp, 5 sc in next ch-4 sp, sc in top of next cl, triple picot in last sc made, sc in same cl, 5 sc in next ch-4 sp—966 sc, 72 picot, 39 triple picot. Do not fasten off.

Top edge foundation:

Row 1: (RS) Working across top edge of shawl, (sc, hdc, dc) around post of last dc of cl on Row 6 on side edge, 3 dc in each of next 7 ch-3 sps, 2 dc around next dc, 2 dc in center of motif, 2 dc around next dc, [3 dc in each of next 6 ch-3 sps, making sure to not dc in ch-7 sp on full motifs (see Notes), 2 dc around next dc, 2 dc in center of motif, 2 dc around next dc] 10 times, 3 dc in each of next 7 ch-3 sps, (dc, hdc, sc) around post of last dc of cl on Row 6 on side edge, turn—2 sc, 2 hdc, 293 dc.

Row 2: Sl st to sp bet first and 2nd dc, sl st in same sp, ch 1, sc in same sp, [ch 3, sk next 3 dc, dc bet last skipped dc and next dc] 97 times, ch 1, turn—97 ch-3 sps.

Row 3: 2 sc in first ch-3 sp, [7 dc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next ch-3 sp] 47 times, 7 dc in next ch-3 sp, sc in hdc—48 sc, 329 dc. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

TRI PETAL LEAF (MAKE 3)

With B, leaving a 6–8" tail, ch 5, sl st in first ch to form ring, ch 4, [2tr-cl (see Stitch Guide), picot in top of cl just made, ch 4, sl st in ring, sl st in ch-st in ring, sl st in ring] 3 times, Fasten off.

BI PETAL LEAF (MAKE 42)

With B, leaving a 6–8" tail, ch 6, 2tr-cl in 4th ch from hook, picot in cl just made, ch 4, sl st in same ch, sl st in next 2 ch, ch 3, 2tr-cl, picot in cl just made, ch 4, sl st in same ch. Fasten off.

STAR FLOWER (MAKE 45)

With A, leaving a 6–8" tail, ch 4, 2tr-cl in 4th ch from hook, picot in top of cl just made, ch 3, sl st in same ch at base of 2tr-cl, [(ch 3, 2tr-cl, ch 3, sl st) in same ch] 4 times—5 petals. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in end tails of leaves and flowers. Using long beg tails, sew pearls, leaves, and flowers onto shawl where motifs join as indicated on chart. Tri petal leaves are sewn to center join of each row of flowers. Bi petal leaves go up each side on each row of flowers.

Spray block and leave to dry.

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SALSA SKIRT

Doris Chan

This vintage motif is based on a doily from the trousseau of the designer’s mother; Doris tells its story in the May-June 2011 issue of PieceWork, where it is called the Yokahama Mama motif. The motif continues to offer up its lace goodness to projects, including this swingy skirt. Yarn: Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy (Knitting Fever). Page 78.

______________________________

Rating: 3

PLUS SIZE

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

Waist circumference: 34 (41, 48)" with stretch to pull on; high hip circumference: 37½ (45, 52½)"; finished length: 23" to motif point. Garment shown measures 34", modeled with 8" ease.

YARN

Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy (34% hemp, 41% cotton, 25% Modal; 153 yd [140 m]/1¾ oz [50g]; LIGHT): #042 snow shadow, 5 (6, 7) balls.

HOOK

Size G/6 (4 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

Yarn needle.

GAUGE

14 fsc or sc = 4". First 3 rnds of motif = 5" at widest; full motif = 7½" diameter (side to side including picots), diagonal (point to point) 10½".

Notes

Skirt is constructed of large square motifs joined as you go. Skirt is essentially a tube; handkerchief hem is made by inserting squares on point at bottom, bet motifs of tube. Due to construction, availability of sizing is limited by dimensions of motifs.

Once assembled, blocked and worn, skirt may hang longer on the body than crocheted measurements would indicate. Motifs are crocheted in the rnd with RS always facing. Motifs are joined in last rnd according to assembly diagram.

Stitch Guide

Double treble 3 together (dtr3tog): All in the same place indicated, yo 3 times, insert hook, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times; rep from 2 times, yo and draw through rem 4 lps on hook.

Double treble 4 together (dtr4tog): All in the same place indicated, yo 3 times, insert hook, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times; rep from 3 times, yo and draw through rem 5 lps on hook.

Cluster (cl; dc3tog over 3 sts): Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook (2 lps on hook), yo, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook (3 lps on hook), yo, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook (4 lps on hook), yo, draw through all 4 lps on hook.

Bobble (bob) (dc3tog in one place): All in same st or sp indicated, [yo, insert hook, yo and pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times, yo, draw through all 4 lps on hook.

Beginning bobble (beg-bob): Ch 2, yo, insert hook in beg st or sp, yo and pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook (2 lps on hook), yo, insert hook in same st or sp, yo and pull up lp, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook (3 lps on hook), yo, draw through all 3 lps on hook.

Shell (sh): [Bob, ch 2, bob] in same st or sp.

Picot: To create a picot on top of a dc3tog (cluster or bobble), ch 3, sl st in top of dc3tog just made as foll: Insert hook from top to bottom under front lp of st and under 3 vertical strands of posts, yo, draw through all 5 lps to close picot.

Picot join: To join picots, replace ch 3 with ch 1, sl st in corresponding picot sp of previous motif, ch 1, sl st in top of st on working motif.

Corner Join: Work final rnd of motif to corner you need to connect, replace ch-9 bet bobs with ch 4, sl st in corresponding ch-9 corner sp of previous motif, ch 4, cont on working motif.

Motif:

Ch 6, sl st in beg ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 4, dtr3tog (see Stitch Guide) in ring (counts as dtr4tog), [ch 4, dtr (see Glossary) in ring, ch 4, dtr4tog (see Stitch Guide) in ring] 3 times, ch 4, dtr in ring, ch 4, sl st in top of beg ch-4 to join—4 dtr4tog bobs.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc2tog (see Glossary) in same st for beg bob, [ch 4, dc in next ch-4 sp, dc in next dtr, dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sh (see Stitch Guide) in next dtr-bob] 4 times, omitting last sh, end with bob in same sp as beg, ch 1, sc in top of beg-bob (counts as ch-2 sp).

Rnd 3: Beg-bob in first ch-2 sp, [ch 4, dc in next ch-4 sp, dc in next 3 dc, dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sh in ch-2 sp of next sh] 4 times, omitting last sh, end with bob in same sp as beg, ch 1, sc in top of beg-bob to complete sh.

Rnd 4: Beg-bob, [*ch 4, dc in next ch-4 sp, dc in next 5 dc, dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4*, (sh, ch 2, bob) in ch-2 sp of next sh] 3 times; rep from to , sh in same sp as beg, ch 1, sc in top of beg-bob.

Rnd 5: Beg-bob, ch 2, bob in same beg sp, [*ch 4, dc in next ch-4 sp, dc in next 7 dc, dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sh in next ch-2 sp*, ch 2, sh in next ch-2 sp] 3 times; rep from to , ch 1, sc in top of beg-bob.

Rnd 6: Beg-bob, ch 2, (sh, picot or picot join [see Stitch Guide]) in ch-2 sp of next sh, ch 3, [cl (see Stitch Guide) in next 3 dc, picot or picot join, ch 3] 3 times, (bob, picot or picot join, ch 2, bob) in ch-2 sp of next sh, ch 2*, (bob, ch 9 or corner join [see Stitch Guide], bob) for corner in next ch-2 sp bet sh, ch 2*; rep from to 2 times; rep from to *, end with bob in same sp as beg, ch 9, sl st in top of beg-bob. Fasten off.

Joining motifs:

While working Rnd 6, motifs are joined to each other at 5 picots at sides and at ch-9 corner sps using a picot join or corner join. To join in a corner where there is already a join, insert hook and sl st in the existing joining sl st.

Pattern

Make 15 (18, 21) motifs, connecting to each other as you go according to assembly diagram as foll:

First level:

The first 5 (6, 7) motifs are assembled in a long row, side by side, then, while making last motif, ends of row are connected to form a tube as foll:

Motif 1:

Make one motif as written.

Motifs 2–4 (5, 6):

Connect one motif edge (from corner to corner) to previous motif, forming a strip.

Motif 5 (6, 7):

Connect one motif edge (from corner to corner) to previous motif, work next picots of motif side unconnected, connect next motif edge completely (from corner to corner) to next free edge of Motif 1, finish rest of motif.

Second level:

Connect next motifs to bottom edges of previous motifs and to each other as foll:

Motif 6 (7, 8):

Connect one motif edge c (from corner to corner) to bottom edge of motif 1 of tube.

Motif 7 (8, 9) (on-point):

Connect one motif edge (from corner to corner) to previous motif, ending with a corner join in same previous corner, do not connect to tube, finish rest of motif.

Motif 8 (9, 10):

Connect one motif edge (from corner to corner) to previous motif, (yes, there are five motifs connected at this corner); cont to connect next motif edge to next motif edge of tube, finish rest of motif.

Motifs 9 (10, 11)–14 (17, 20):

Rep last 2 motif assemblies 3 (4, 5) times.

Motif 15 (18, 21) (last on-point motif):

Connect one motif edge (from corner to corner) to previous motif; connect next motif edge to next free edge of motif 6 (7, 8) to close assembly, finish rest of motif.

Waistband:

Fsc 120 (144, 168), to measure approximately 34 (41, 48)"; turn foundation over so sc edge is on top, sl st in beg sc to form a ring, being careful not to twist sts, beg work across sc edge.

Hold foundation ring to RS waist edge of tube; work a rnd of sts that connect foundation to top edge of 5 (6, 7) skirt motifs as foll: Beg connecting at a corner join bet any 2 motifs.

Rnd 1 (join): (RS) Ch 1, sc in first sc of foundation, ch 4, sl st in sl st of previous corner join bet motifs, ch 4, sk next 3 sc of foundation, sc in next sc, ch 3, sk next 2 sc of foundation, [cl in next 3 sc of foundation, picot join to next picot of motif, ch 3] 5 times , sk next 2 sc of foundation, sc in next sc; rep from to 4 (5, 6) times, omitting last sc, end with sl st in first sc.

RS still facing, rotate work so ch edge of waistband is on top, sl st around post of same beg sc, sl st in foundation st below same sc, beg work around ch edge of foundation.

Rnd 2: (RS) Ch 2, sk first ch, dc2tog over next 2 ch for beg cl, ch 3, [cl in next 3 ch, ch 3] 39 (47, 55) times, sk top of beg cl, sl st in first ch of next ch-3 sp—40 (48, 56) cl.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, 3 sc in each ch-3 sp around, sl st in first sc—120 (144, 168) sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block to shape.

NARROW BELT (¾")

Row 1: Ch 3, (dc2tog, ch 2, bob) in 3rd ch from hook for sh, turn.

Row 2: (Beg-bob, ch 2, bob) in ch-2 sp of sh, turn.

Rep Row 2 sixty-five (seventy-five, eighty-five) times, or until belt measures about 45 (51, 58)" long or for length desired. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Thread belt in and out of spaces bet cl of waistband trim, cinch waist and tie as desired.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

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TANGO TUNIC

Doris Chan

Inspired by a vintage thread doily, the motifs of the yoke on this seamless, stretchy tunic circle the shoulders and draw the eye to your face while providing a framework for the lace mesh body that floats to tunic length. The deep, gently ruffled trim creates a roomy, flared fit around the hip and gives the hem the weight it needs to sway with your every step. Yarn: Prism Yarn Tencel Tape. Page 75.

______________________________

Rating: 3

PLUS SIZE

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

42 (45, 56¼)" bust circumference. Garment shown measures 42", modeled with 11" ease.

YARN

Prism Yarn Tencel Tape (100% tencel; 120 yd [110 m]/2 oz [57 g]; LIGHT): denali, 4 (5, 6) skeins.

HOOK

Size H/8 (5 mm) for size 42"; I/9 (5.5mm) for sizes 45 (56¼)". Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

GAUGE

With H/8 (5 mm) hook, 14 Fsc = 4" (10 cm). Motif (before assembly) = 5" height (stem to point); 5½" wide. In mesh stitch of body: 2 reps of [ch 8, (sc, ch 3, sc)] = 3½"; 4 rnds = 4". With I/9 (5.5mm) hook, 13 Fsc = 4". Motif (before assembly) = 5½" height (stem to point); 6" wide. In mesh stitch of body: 2 reps of [ch 8, (sc, ch 3, sc)] = 3¾"; 4 rnds = 4½". See Notes.

Notes

Tunic is worked in the rnd from top down, with RS always facing.

There is no practical way to make a gauge swatch, as st patt rnds are RS facing. The best indication is to check gauge of neckline. Work entire circle of neckline with stated hook for your size, stretch it slightly, let it snap back if it wants to, then measure across the width. This should equal approximately half the neckline circumference, at a gauge of 14 (13, 13) sts per 4".

Motif is never used unassembled, however you may want to make one basic motif complete to measure gauge. Do not fasten off swatch, rip back Rnd 2 and re-work with joins.

If longer tunic is desired, cont to rep Rnd 2 of body to desired length, end at a rnd where ch-8 sp is at center of front/back so edging is centered.

Stitch Guide

Long Treble (ltr): Yo 5 times, insert hook in st indicated, yo and pull up lp, (7 lps on hook), [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 6 times.

Double Treble 2 together (dtr2tog): Yo 3 times, insert hook in picot sp as indicated, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times (2 lps rem on hook), yo 3 times, insert hook in next picot sp as indicated, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times (3 lps rem on hook), yo and draw through all 3 rem lps.

Picot: This creates a picot on top of a tall st (tr, dtr, trtr or ltr). After completing a tall st, ch 3, insert hook from top to bottom in front lp of tall st just made and in forward lp of post just below top, sl st to close picot.

Picot cluster (dtr6tog cluster with picot): Worked from 4th ch in center of one ch-7 sp across to 4th ch in center of next ch-7 sp. All in first ch indicated: (Yo 3 times, insert hook in ch, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times) 3 times (4 lps rem on hook); all in next ch indicated: (Yo 3 times, insert hook in ch, yo and pull up lp, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times) 3 times (7 lps rem on hook), yo and draw through all 7 lps on hook, ch 3, insert hook top to bottom through all 7 front lps, sl st to close picot.

Ch-8-Picot: After completing a tall st of edging, ch 8, insert hook in same way as ch-3 picot above, sl st to close picot.

Motif:

Ch 11, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 6, dtr (see Glossary) in ring, ch 3, ttr (see Glossary) in ring, [ch 3, ltr (see above) in ring] 3 times, ch 5, [ltr in ring, ch 3] 3 times, ttr in ring, ch 3, dtr in ring, ch 6, sl st in same ch as join for ring.

Rnd 2: See Notes. (Sc, 7 dc, picot) in next ch-6 sp, (5 dc, picot) in each of next 4 ch-3 sps, (3 dc, 2 tr, picot, tr, 3 dc) in next ch-5 sp, (dc, picot, 4 dc) in each of next 4 ch-3 sps, (dc, ch-8-picot, 6 dc, sc) in next ch-6 sp, sl st in same ch as join for ring, ch 4 (stem made), sl st again in same ch as join for ring. Fasten off.

Assembling motifs:

Motifs are joined to neckline and each other while working picots on Rnd 2 of motif.

Picot join: To join at a ch-3 picot, instead of ch 3, ch 1, insert hook from front to back in corresponding picot of previous motif or of neckline as indicated, sl st, ch 1, finish picot with sl st in top of last st made on working motif, cont with working motif.

To picot join in an existing join, insert hook in sl st of previous join, under 2 strands of join.

Stem join: To join at a ch-4 stem picot, instead of ch-4 stem, ch 2, sl st in next picot of neckline, ch 2, sl st in same ch as join for motif ring. Fasten off.

Pattern

With H/8 (I/9, I/9) hook, fsc (see Glossary) 72, turn foundation over so sc edge is on top, being careful not to twist, hold ends of foundation tog, sl st in first sc to form a ring, beg work across sc edge as foll:

Neckline Rnd: (RS) Ch 1, sc in first sc, [sk next 2 sc, (3 dc, picot, 2 dc) in next sc, sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc] 12 times, omitting last sc, end with sl st in first sc—12 picots/sh. Fasten off.

Motif yoke:

Make and assemble 6 motifs, joining at picots and stem of Rnd 2 to picots of neckline and to each other as you go, with RS of motifs and neckline always facing. Motifs are joined counterclockwise around neckline.

Motif 1: Work motif until first picot of Rnd 2, picot join (see Stitch Guide) first picot to any picot of neckline. Work motif until last picot; moving to the right of previous join, sk next picot of neckline, picot join to next neckline picot. Work motif until stem, stem join (see Stitch Guide) in skipped neckline picot, finish motif. Fasten off.

Motifs 2–5: Work motif until first picot of Rnd 2, holding motif to right of previous motif, picot join in last picot join of previous motif; work motif until next picot, picot join in next free picot of previous motif. Work motif until last picot; moving to the right of previous join, sk next picot of neckline, picot join in next neckline picot before that. Work motif until stem, stem join in skipped neckline picot, finish motif. Fasten off.

Final motif is connected to both previous motif 5 and to first motif and to neckline, completing yoke circle.

Motif 6: Work motif until first picot of Rnd 2, picot join in last picot join of motif 5, work motif until next picot, picot join in next free picot of motif 5. Work motif until next to last picot, picot join in next free picot before join of motif 1; work motif until last picot, picot join in first picot join of motif 1; work motif until stem, stem join in rem neckline picot, finish motif. Fasten off.

Weave in ends before cont.

Mesh yoke:

Each motif has 7 free picots along outer edge (42 total). With RS of motifs facing, join yarn with sl st in picot at bottom pointed tip of any motif. Cont as foll:

Sizes 42 (45)" only:

Rnd 1: [Ch 7, sc in next picot] 2 times, ch 7, dtr2tog (see Stitch Guide) in next picot of same motif and in next free picot of next motif, [ch 7, sc in next picot] 2 times, ch 7, sl st in next picot (at tip); rep from to 5 times, omitting last ch 7 and sl st, end with ch 3, tr in same picot as beg sl st (counts as ch-7 sp)—36 ch-7 sps.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in upper stem of beg tr, [ch 8, (sc, ch 3, sc) in 4th ch at center of next ch-7 sp] 2 times, ch 8, picot cluster (see Stitch Guide) over 4th ch of next 2 ch-7 sps (top of shoulder), [ch 8, (sc, ch 3, sc) in 4th ch at center of next ch-7 sp] 16 times, ch 8, picot cl over 4th ch of next 2 ch-7 sps (top of shoulder), [ch 8, (sc, ch 3, sc) in 4th ch at center of next ch-7 sp] 13 times, end with ch 3, dtr in beg sc (counts as ch-8 sp)—34 ch-8 sps. Next rnd, join front and back of yoke with additional fsc for each underarm, forming a continuous body rnd as foll:

Rnd 3 (join body): Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in upper stem of beg dtr, ch 1, fsc 12 for underarm, sk next 6 ch-8 sps for armhole, in next ch-8 sp (sc in 4th ch, ch 3, sc in 5th ch), [ch 8, sk next ch-3 sp, in next ch-8 sp (sc in 4th ch, ch 3, sc in 5th ch)] 10 times; rep from to for other underarm, [ch 8, sk next ch-3 sp, in next ch-8 sp (sc in 4th ch, ch 3, sc in 5th ch)] 9 times, end with ch 3, dtr in first sc (counts as ch-8 sp).

Size 56¼" only:

Rnd 1: [Ch 7, sc in next picot] 2 times, ch 7, dtr in next picot of same motif, ch 7, dtr in next free picot of next motif, [ch 7, sc in next picot] 2 times, ch 7, sl st in next picot (at tip); rep from to 5 times, placing last sl st in same picot as first sl st—42 ch-7 sps.

Rnd 2: [Ch 7, (sc, ch 3, sc) in 4th ch at center of next ch-7 sp] 7 times, ch 7, sl st in same picot as previous picot (at tip), [ch 7, (sc, ch 3, sc) in 4th ch at center of next ch-7 sp] 14 times, ch 7, sl st in same picot as previous picot (at tip); rep from to , end with ch 3, tr in same picot of motif as first sl st (counts as ch-7 sp)—46 ch-7 sps.

Rnd 3: Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) upper stem of beg tr, [ch 8, (sc, ch 3, sc) in 4th ch at center of next ch-7 sp] 3 times, ch 8, picot cluster over 4th ch of next 2 ch-7 sps (top of shoulder), [ch 8, (sc, ch 3, sc) in 4th ch at center of next ch-7 sp] 21 times, ch 8, picot cluster over 4th ch of next 2 ch-7 sps (top of shoulder), [ch 8, (sc, ch 3, sc) in 4th ch at center of next ch-7 sp] 17 times, end with ch 3, dtr in beg sc (counts as ch-8 sp)—44 ch-8 sps.

Next rnd, join front and back of yoke with additional fsc for each underarm, forming a continuous body rnd as foll:

Rnd 4 (connect body): Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in upper stem of beg dtr, ch 1, fsc 12 for underarm, sk next 8 ch-8 sps for armhole, in next ch-8 sp (sc in 4th ch, ch 3, sc in 5th ch), [ch 8, sk next ch-3 sp, in next ch-8 sp (sc in 4th ch, ch 3, sc in 5th ch)] 13 times; rep from to for other underarm, [ch 8, sk next ch-3 sp, in next ch-8 sp (sc in 4th ch, ch 3, sc in 5th ch)] 12 times, end with ch 3, dtr in beg sc (counts as ch-8 sp).

All Sizes:

Body:

Rnd 1: Ch 1, in edge of beg dtr (sc in 2 forward lps of post just below top, ch 3, sc in next 2 forward lps of post, ch 8, sk next (sc, ch 3, sc) before underarm foundation, sk next 2 sc of foundation, sc in next sc, ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 8, sk next 4 sc, sc in next sc, ch 3, sc in next sc, sk rem 2 sc of foundation, sk next (sc, ch 3, sc), [ch 8, in next ch-8 sp (sc in 4th ch, ch 3, sc in 5th ch)] 10 (10, 13) times; rep from to across other underarm; [ch 8, in next ch-8 sp (sc in 4th ch, ch 3, sc in 5th ch)] 9 (9, 12) times, end with ch 3, dtr in first sc (counts as ch-8 sp)—24 (24, 30) ch-8 sps.

Rnd 2: Ch 1, in edge of beg dtr (sc in 2 forward lps of post just below top, ch 3, sc in next 2 forward lps of post), [ch 8, in next ch-8 sp (sc in 4th ch, ch 3, sc in 5th ch)] 23 (23, 29) times, end with ch 3, dtr in first sc—24 (24, 30) ch-8 sps.

Rnds 3–12 (10, 11): Rep Rnd 2 ten (eight, nine) times, or for body length desired (see Notes).

Edge:

Note: Each rep of edge uses 3 ch-8 sps of last rnd, for 8 (8, 10) reps. There should be a ch-3 sp at center front/center back of last rnd. For sizes S (M/L), active st should be at middle of ch-8 sp, 2 ch-8 sps to the right of center. For size XL/2XL (or if you have altered the body length; see Notes), fasten off after last body rnd, locate ch-8 sp at center of body front, count back 2 ch-8 sps to right, join yarn in 5th ch of ch-8 sp.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in 2 forward lps of post just below top lps of beg dtr (if you have joined yarn, sc in same ch of ch-8 sp as join), [ch 8, sc in 4th ch of next ch-8 sp, (5 dtr, ch-8-picot [see Stitch Guide] in top of last dtr made, 4 dtr) in next ch-3 sp, sc in 5th ch of next ch-8 sp, ch 8, in next ch-8 sp (sc in 4th ch, ch 3, sc in 5th ch); rep from to 7 times, omitting last (sc, ch 3, sc), end with sc in top lps of same dtr as beg (if you have rejoined yarn, sc in 4th ch of same ch-8 sp as beg), ch 1, hdc in first sc (counts as beg ch-3 sp)—8 (8, 10) reps.

Rnd 2: Ch 8 (counts as dc and ch 5), sk next ch-8 sp, [ttr (see Glossary), (ch 3, ttr) 7 times] in next ch-8-picot, ch 5, sk next ch-8 sp*, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 5*; rep from to 6 (6, 8) times; rep from to *, end with dc in same sp as beg, ch 1, hdc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8 (counts as ch-3 beg sp).

Rnd 3: Ch 8 (counts as dc and ch 5), sk next ch-5 sp, sc in next ttr, [3 dc in next ch-3 sp, dc in next ttr] 3 times, 5 dc in next ch-3 sp, [dc in next ttr, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp] 3 times, sc in next ttr, ch 5, sk next ch-5 sp*, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 5*; rep from to 6 (6, 8) times; rep from to *; end with dc in same sp as beg, ch 1, hdc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8 (counts as beg ch-3 sp).

Rnd 4: Ch 8 (counts as dc and ch 5), sk next ch-5 sp, sk next (sc, 2 dc), sc in next dc, [ch 5, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc] 8 times, ch 5, sk next ch-5 sp*, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 5*; rep from to 6 (6, 8) times; rep from to *, end with dc in same sp as beg, ch 1, hdc in 3rd ch of beg ch-8.

Rnd 5: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), dc in beg sp, ch 5, sk next ch-5 sp, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 7 times, sk next ch-5 sp*, (dc, ch 3, dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 sp*; rep from to 6 (6, 8) times; rep from to *, end with dc in same sp as beg, ch 1, hdc in 3rd ch of beg ch-6.

Rnd 6: Ch 6 (counts as dc and ch 3), (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sk next ch-5 sp, [sc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5] 6 times, sk next ch-5 sp**, (dc, ch 3, dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 3*; rep from to 6 (6, 8) times; rep from to *, end with dc in same sp as beg, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-6. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Wet or spray block. Note: Tencel, particularly in this knitted tape yarn construction, will shrink when wet. Do not be alarmed if top seems too small as you are blocking it. Do not try to stretch piece to measurements. Instead, just smooth out fabric, ease it into shape, opening up motifs and trim sections. Once fabric is dry, it will relax and achieve finished measurements.

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CALYPSO CLUTCH

Brenda K. B. Anderson

Dropped double treble stitches form this textured chevron pattern. A simple fabric lining hides the plastic canvas that gives this clutch its sleek and sturdy shape. Magnetic snaps keep the flap in place, and large decorative buttons add modern style. Yarn: The Sassy Skein Key West Karibbean Kotton Kollection DK. Page 73.

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Rating: 2

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE

About 9½" wide, 5½" tall, and 2" thick (at bottom of clutch).

YARN

The Sassy Skein Key West Karibbean Kotton Kollection DK (100% mercerized cotton; 109 yd [100 m]/1¾ oz [50 g]; LIGHT): #134 dolphin grey (MC), #120 violet (CC), 2 skeins each.

HOOK

Size E/4 (3.5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

St marker (m); yarn needle; one sheet of 5 mesh plastic canvas with large enough holes for yarn needle to fit through (this should measure about ½" smaller than dimensions of main section of purse); rectangle of cotton woven fabric that measures approximately 10" X 16" for lining (or about ½" larger in each direction than main section of purse); two sets of ¾" magnetic purse snaps; sewing pins; two 1⅝" [41 mm] buttons; sewing needle and thread that matches lining fabric.

GAUGE

19 sts and 13 rows in textured chevron patt = 4". Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

Notes

“Insert hook in indicated st” means to work dtr sts and dtrcl sts in a st 2 rows below where you normally would work into. Do not insert hook in ch-1 sp. Insert hook from front to back in st below ch-1 sp, then insert hook from back to front through ch-1 sp above.

With the exception of Row 3, all dtr and dtrc sts will be made into a st of same color (below the stripe of the opposite color).

Stitch Guide

Linked double crochet (ldc): To make a ldc when previous st is a turning ch: Insert hook through back lp of 2nd ch from hook, yo and draw through just this lp (2 lps on hook), insert hook under back lp of same st as join, yo and draw through to front of work (3 lps on hook), [yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times—1 ldc made. To make a ldc when previous st is a ldc: insert hook from top to bottom through horizontal bar in previous st, yo and draw through just this lp (2 lps on hook), insert hook under blo of next st, yo and draw through to front of work (3 lps on hook), [yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times—1 ldc made.

Double treble crochet cluster (dtrcl): This st has two legs. First leg is worked in st below previous ch-1 sp, 2nd leg is worked in st below next ch-1 sp. Yo 3 times, insert hook in st below previous ch-1 sp (same one you just worked a dtr into), yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times (2 lps left on hook), yo 3 times, insert hook in st below next ch-1 sp, yo and pull up lp, [yo and draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times (3 lps on hook), yo and draw through all 3 lps on hook.

Gauge swatch:

With MC ch 20.

Row 1: (RS) Working in bottom ridge lp of foundation ch, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 ch, [ch 1, sk next st, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times, turn—19 sts.

Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count as st throughout), ldc (see above) in each st across, changing to CC on last yo of rnd, turn—19 ldc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, dtr (see Glossary) in st directly below next ch-1 (see Notes), sk next st, sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st, dtrcl (working first leg in same st just worked when making previous dtr, and 2nd leg of st in st below foll ch-1 sp), [sk next st, sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st, dtrcl (working first leg in same st just worked when making previous dtrcl, and 2nd leg of st in st below foll ch-1 sp)] 2 times, sk next st, sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st, dtr in same st worked on 2nd leg of previous dtrcl, sk next st, sc in last st—19 sts.

Rep Rows 2–3 five times, ending with a rep of Row 3 worked in MC—6 zigzag stripes.

Pattern

CLUTCH

Side panels (make 2):

With CC, ch 15.

Row 1: Working in bottom ridge lps, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—14 sc.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in next 13 sts, 3 sc in next st, rotate work 180 degrees to work in opposite side of foundation ch, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 13 sts, turn—32 sts.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in next 14 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 14 sts, turn—36 sts.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc in next 15 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 15 next 16 sts, turn—44 sts.

Row 5 (WS): Ch 1, sc in next 16 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in sts, turn—40 sts.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc across. Do not fasten off. Place marker (pm) in first and last sts of row. Rotate work clockwise 90 degrees to work 8 sc across top straight edge of side panel. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Main section:

With MC, ch 44.

Row 1: (RS) Working in bottom ridge lp, sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 ch, [ch 1, sk next ch, sc in next 3 ch] 10 times, turn—43 sts.

Row 2: Ch 3 (does not count as st throughout), ldc across (see Stitch Guide), changing to CC on last yo of rnd, turn—43 ldc.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, dtr (see Glossary) in st directly below next ch-1 (see Notes), sk next st, sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st, dtrcl (see Stitch Guide), [sk next st, sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st, dtrcl] 8 times, sk next st, sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st, dtr in same st worked on 2nd leg of previous dtrcl, sk next st, sc in last st—43 sts.

Rep Rows 2–3 twenty-five times, ending with a Row 3 worked in MC—13 zigzag stripes of each color. Do not fasten off.

Edging:

With RS facing, rotate work 90 degrees clockwise to work along side edge of piece as foll: 2 sc in each CC section, 3 sc in each MC section until only 1 section of MC rem. 4 sc in last MC section—66 sts down this side of rectangle. Rotate work clockwise 90 degrees and work sc in 43 sts across bottom edge of rectangle. Rotate work 90 degrees to work along other long side of rectangle as foll: 4 sc in first section of MC, 2 sc in CC sections and 3 sc in MC sections—66 sts along edge. Rotate work 90 degrees clockwise and work sc in 43 sts across top edge of rectangle. Do not fasten off. Pm in live lp so that work will not ravel (m is at corner of what will be the purse flap). Weave in ends except for the live lp end.

Assembly:

Cut plastic canvas and lining:

Measure dimensions of main section of purse. Cut fabric lining to measurements plus ½". Cut plastic canvas to ½" smaller than main section of purse. Cut plastic canvas into 2 sections as foll: With WS of main section of purse facing up, set plastic canvas on top of work at end with live loop so that ¼" of crochet extends around top and side edges of plastic canvas. Count down from the first narrow MC stripe through the next 6 full stripes. This should be about 3½" by 9” wide. Cut off this size plastic canvas. This piece will be attached to WS of purse flap. Place remainder of plastic canvas on WS of main section of purse, leaving a border of ¼" of crocheted fabric around bottom edge and sides. Count from the bottom edge MC stripe to top edge of 17th stripe; cut plastic canvas along this edge. This piece should measure about 9½" by 9" wide. The gap bet the canvas pieces measures about 1½" and will be at the top fold of purse when flap is closed.

Attaching snaps to purse flap lining:

The magnetic snaps are attached to underside of purse flap; prongs should go through fabric lining and plastic canvas, but not through crocheted fabric. To allow the prongs to fit into canvas, you may need to cut away one horizontal bar of canvas, taking care not to cut out the snap area completely. Leave plastic canvas intact bet prongs. The center of each snap should be about 1" from top edge of plastic canvas, and about 1⅜" in from side edges. For best results, cut away space for prongs on one side of plastic canvas, and then fold in half to ensure other side is cut out the same way. Mark and cut small slits in lining fabric to allow prongs to go through fabric, then plastic canvas. Before cutting these slits, be sure the fabric sticks out past the top and side edges of the plastic canvas by about ½". Attach 2 snaps in place. Slide metal backing over prongs, then bend prongs toward each other, fastening securely in place.

Make holes in bottom piece of plastic canvas for snap prongs. The center of each snap should be about 2⅜" up from bottom edge of canvas, and about 1⅜" in from side edges. Cut away horizontal bar in canvas where prongs need to go through.

Before attaching other side of snaps, attach plastic canvas to the WS of crocheted fabric first as foll:

Whipstitch (see Glossary) edges of each piece of plastic canvas to WS of purse using MC and yarn needle, taking care not to stitch through to RS of crocheted fabric, and leaving a ¼" border of crochet around edges of plastic canvas. Be sure to leave a 1½" gap bet pieces of plastic canvas.

Attach other sides of snaps through RS of crocheted fabric, then through plastic canvas where holes were cut out, but not through lining fabric. Slide metal backing over prongs then bend prongs toward each other, fastening them securely in place.

Pin lining in place to cover top plastic canvas piece, folding under raw edge of fabric. Pin just under the bottom edge of plastic canvas to secure in place. Because lining is on the inside curve of purse, it should be pulled tighter to avoid excess fabric. (The lining behind purse flap should not be pulled tight, just the remainder of the lining.) Fold the bottom edge of lining so that canvas sticks past it by about ⅜", then pull on fabric so that it completely covers plastic canvas; this forces purse into a slight curve. Pin bottom edge in place. Fold side edges of lining under and pin in place to WS of work, taking care to cover canvas, but allowing last rnd of sc to extend past edge of lining. Ease in side edges. Using sewing needle and thread, sew lining to WS of main section of purse using blind stitch as foll: Slide threaded needle into folded edge of lining for about ⅛", then poke it back out of the lining at folded edge. Take a small stitch into the crocheted fabric just barely below edge of lining. Rep around edges of lining. Stitching should be hidden within the fold of fabric.

Attaching sides:

Starting with live loop, and keeping RS facing, rotate rectangle 90 degrees clockwise to work into long side of rectangle as foll: Sl st in next 22 sts along side of purse flap. Place side panel behind work with WS tog. Starting with next st of main section and marked stitch of side panel, sl st 2 pieces tog working sl st in next 44 sts, rotate work 90 degrees and sl st in next 43 sts of main section of purse, place other side panel behind work with WS tog and sl st 2 pieces tog through next 44 sts, sl st in next 22 sts along other side edge of purse flap. Rotate work 90 degrees clockwise and sl st in next 43 sts. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Spray block lightly if necessary. Using sewing needle and thread, sew center of each button to RS of purse flap just above edge of each snap. For more durability, sew through all layers when attaching buttons.

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CANCAN COLLAR

Lily Chin

The outrageous ruffles of this elegant collar are created with a ribbon yarn that is crocheted onto a smooth crochet base (it’s easier than it looks!). Wear this with everything all the time! Yarn: Rozetti Yarns Opus & Double Twist (Universal Yarn). Page 75.

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Rating: 1

Getting Started

FINISHED SIZE 22½" neck circumference; 40½" chest circumference; 5¾" tall.

YARN

Universal Yarn Double Twist (100% acrylic; 273 yd [250 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; LIGHT): # 125 silver (MC), 1 skein.

Rozetti Yarns Opus (92% acrylic, 8% polyester; 54 yd [48 m]/3½ oz [100 g]; BULKY): #43102 silver lining (CC), 1 skein. Yarns distributed by Universal Yarn.

HOOK

Size H/8 (5 mm). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.

NOTIONS

St marker (m); yarn needle.

GAUGE

16 sts and 18 rows = 4" in sc.

Notes

Collar is worked from bottom up with WS facing. Do not turn throughout. Ruffles will appear at back (RS) of work.

With CC yarn, sts are worked in open ladder sp along edge of yarn.

Stitch Guide

Joining sc (jsc): Insert hook in next sc, insert hook in ladder space of CC, yo with MC and draw yarn through both, yo with MC and complete sc.

Pattern

With MC, loosely ch 162, sl st in first ch to form ring.

Rnd 1: (WS) Sc blo in each ch around—162 sc. Place marker (pm) in last st of first rnd and move m up each rnd.

Rnd 2: With MC and CC, jsc (see Stitch Guide) in each st around, working one jsc in each ladder space of CC to form ruffles behind work, drop CC, do not fasten off—162 jsc.

Rnd 3: With MC, sc in next 11 sc, sc2tog (see Glossary), [sc in next 25 sc, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in next 14 sc—156 sc.

Rnd 4: Rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 5: With MC, [sc in next 24 sc, sc2tog] 6 times—150 sc.

Rnd 6: Rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 7: With MC, sc in next 10 sc, sc2tog, [sc in next 23 sc, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in next 13 sc—144 sc.

Rnd 8: Rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 9: With MC, [sc in next 22 sc, sc2tog] 6 times—138 sc.

Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 11: With MC, sc in next 9 sc, sc2tog, [sc in next 21 sc, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in next 12 sc—132 sc.

Rnd 12: Rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 13: With MC, [sc in next 20 sc, sc2tog] 6 times—126 sc.

Rnd 14: Rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 15: With MC, sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog, [sc in next 19 sc, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in next 11 sc—120 sc.

Rnd 16: Rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 17: With MC, [sc in next 18 sc, sc2tog] 6 times—114 sc.

Rnd 18: Rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 19: With MC, sc in next 7 sc, sc2tog, [sc in next 17 sc, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in next 10 sc—108 sc.

Rnd 20: Rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 21: With MC, [sc in next 16 sc, sc2tog] 6 times—102 sc.

Rnd 22: Rep Rnd 2.

Rnd 23: With MC, sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog, [sc in next 15 sc, sc2tog] 5 times, sc in next 9 sc—96 sc.

Rnd 24: Rep Rnd 2. Fasten off CC.

Rnd 25: With MC, [sc in next 14 sc, sc2tog] 6 times—90 sc.

Rnd 26: Sc in each sc around.

Rnd 27: Loosely sl st in each sc around.

FINISHING

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

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PROJECT DESIGNERS

BRENDA K. B. ANDERSON makes mascots during the day. She cooks, crochets, and belly dances at night. She lives in a little house in Saint Paul, Minnesota, with her awesome husband and their hairy baby, Mr. Kittypants.

JANET BRANI teaches, designs patterns, and blogs as OneLoopShy designs. Four of her patterns are in Crochet One-Skein Wonders: 101 Projects from Crocheters Around the World (Storey, 2013). Follow Janet at www.oneloopshy.blogspot.com.

ROBYN CHACHULA gives tips on fixing even the worst accidents without ever ripping out a stitch in her latest book, Blueprint Crochet Sweaters (Interweave, 2013). She is incredibly thankful to be able to design and write from home in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, while playing with her little “office assistants.” She is also the author of Blueprint Crochet, Baby Blueprint Crochet, Simply Crochet, Unexpected Afghans (all by Interweave), and Crochet Stitches Visual Encyclopedia (Wiley, 2011).

DORIS CHAN enjoys cobbling together unusual motifs and lace stitch patterns into seamless garments. For more lace play, see her latest book, Convertible Crochet (Potter Craft, 2013). Visit her blog at www.dorischancrochet.com, and see her latest self-published pattern line, DJC designs, exclusively at www.designingvashti.com.

LILY CHIN is the author of several knit and crochet books and is featured in DVDs from Interweave. She is co-chair of the New York Stitch N’ Pitch and helped set a Guinness World Record there in 2010 for largest number of people crocheting simultaneously. A million-miler on American Airlines, she teaches extensively around the world.

PAT COOPER, along with her husband, has been living full time in an RV since 1999. They have traveled in most of the fifty states, with Pat picking up beads, threads, and yarn along the way. They recently built a shed in Texas for craft storage. You can follow Pat at www.bajorlane.blogspot.com.

MOON ELDRIDGE was born and raised in the grasslands of Inner Mongolia, China. The beauty of her homeland inspires her work as a music composer and crochet designer.

TAMMY HILDEBRAND, a professional member of the Crochet Guild of America, serves on the CGOA board of directors. She is working on her first book, to be published in 2014. Please visit her at www.hotlavacrochet.blogspot.com.

KAREN HOOTON lives in Scotland near the fishing town of Arbroath with her husband, Peter. She is interested in all crafts, particularly broomstick lace, knitting, and crochet. Most days she plays with yarn in some form or another.

KIMBERLY K. MCALINDIN has been designing professionally since 2005. Her newest ventures are writing technique articles for the magazine Knit 1.2.3 and an exciting crafting partnership with Namaste Farms at www.simplepatterns.etsy.com. Follow her at-home goddess adventures at www.mybuttonjar.blogspot.com.

KATHY MERRICK knits, crochets, and designs from her living room in the northwest corner of the City of Brotherly Love. She is a frequent contributor to Interweave Crochet, which makes her very happy.

CRISTINA MERSHON, a graphic designer and mom of four, works in an advertising agency during the day and crochets at night. She loves to create traditional pieces with modern twists.

LAURINDA REDDIG has published several articles and designs using the reversible intarsia technique she developed. She is the author of ReCrochetions Presents: Rowan’s Learn to Crochet Sampler (CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform). Learn more at www.recrochetions.com.

JENNIFER E. RYAN is a homeschooling mom of three young girls who also teaches crochet and Russian in New Hampshire. She enjoys combining her love of Celtic knots and crochet. You can see more of her creations at www.celticknotcrochet.blogspot.com.

KATHRYN WHITE has a passion for thread and lace crochet. Her goal is to design fine crochet pieces that have a place in today’s crochet world. “Designing for me is a dance between my soul and my hook,” she writes. “Letting the ideas and stitches flow is music you can see and touch. I love when the steps are intricate and delicate.” See more of her work at www.crochetnbeads.com.

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GLOSSARY/OOPS

Abbreviations

beg
begin(s); beginning

bet
between

blo
back loop only

CC
contrasting color

ch
chain

cm
centimeter(s)

cont
continue(s); continuing

dc
double crochet

dtr
double treble crochet

dec(s)(’d)

decrease(s); decreasing; decreased

est
established

fdc
foundation double crochet

flo
front loop only

foll
follows; following

fsc
foundation single crochet

g
gram(s)

hdc
half double crochet

inc(s)(’d)

increase(s); increasing; increased

k
knit

lp(s)

loop(s)

MC
main color

m
marker

mm
millimeter(s)

patt(s)

pattern(s)

pm
place marker

p
purl

rem
remain(s); remaining

rep
repeat; repeating

rev sc
reverse single crochet

rnd(s)

round(s)

RS
right side

sc
single crochet

sk
skip

sl
slip

sl st
slip(ped) stitch

sp(s)

space(es)

st(s)

stitch(es)

tch
turning chain

tog
together

tr
treble crochet

WS
wrong side

yd
yard

yo
yarn over hook

*
repeat starting point

( )

alternate measurements and/or instructions

[ ]

work bracketed instructions a specified number of times

______________________________

Concentration Ratings

1 = LITTLE CONCENTRATION REQUIRED.

Straightforward stitching means your hands can work on autopilot.

2 = SOME CONCENTRATION REQUIRED.

Easily memorized stitch patterns and minimal shaping might require some focus and counting.

3 = FAIR AMOUNT OF FOCUS REQUIRED.

Involved stitch patterns, shaping, or assembly require fairly constant concentration.

4 = EXTREME FOCUS REQUIRED.

Unusual techniques or complex stitch patterns and shaping require constant focus.

______________________________

Standard Yarn Weight System

0: LACE

Yarn: Fingering, 10-count crochet thread Gauge*: 33–40 sts

Hook (metric): 1.5–2.25 mm Hook (U.S.): 000 to 1

1: SUPERFINE

Yarn: Sock, Fingering, Baby Gauge*: 21–32 sts

Hook (metric): 2.25–3.5 mm Hook (U.S.): B-1 to E-4

2: FINE

Yarn: Sport, Baby

Gauge: 16–20 sts

Hook (metric): 3.5–4.5 mm Hook (U.S.): E-4 to G-7

3: LIGHT

Yarn: DK, Light Worsted Gauge: 12–17 sts

Hook (metric): 3.5–4.5 mm Hook (U.S.): G-7 to I-9

4: MEDIUM

Yarn: Worsted, Afghan, Aran Gauge: 11–14 sts

Hook (metric): 5.5–6.5 mm Hook (U.S.): I-9 to K-10½

5: BULKY

Yarn: Chunky, Craft, Rug Gauge: 8–11 sts

Hook (metric): 6.5–9 mm Hook (U.S.): K-10½ to M-13

6: SUPER BULKY

Yarn: Bulky, Roving

Gauge: 5–9 sts

Hook (metric): 9 mm and larger Hook (U.S.): M-13 and larger

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Crochet Gauge

To check gauge, chain 30 to 40 stitches using recommended hook size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" (10 cm) from foundation chain. Lay swatch on flat surface. Place a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4" (10 cm). Repeat two or three times on different areas of swatch to confirm measurements. If you have more stitches and rows than called for in instructions, use a larger hook; if you have fewer, use a smaller hook. Repeat until gauge is correct.

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Learn to Crochet

CHAIN (CH)

Make a slipknot on hook, yarn over and draw through loop of slipknot; repeat from drawing yarn through last loop formed.

SLIP STITCH (SL ST)

Insert hook in stitch, yarn over and draw loop through stitch and loop on hook; repeat from .

SINGLE CROCHET (SC)

Insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (Figure 1), yarn over and draw through both loops on hook (Figure 2); repeat from .

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (HDC) Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over (Figure 1) and draw through all loops on hook (Figure 2); repeat from .

DOUBLE CROCHET (DC)

Yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook; Figure 1), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (Figure 2), yarn over and draw through remaining 2 loops (Figure 3); repeat from .

TREBLE CROCHET (TR)

Yarn over 2 times, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (4 loops on hook; Figure 1), yarn over and draw through 2 loops (Figure 2), yarn over and draw through 2 loops, yarn over and draw through remaining 2 loops (Figure 3); repeat from .

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BACK POST HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (BPHDC) Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

BACK POST DOUBLE CROCHET (BPDC) Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around post of stitch to be worked, yarn over and pull up loop [yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times.

DOUBLE CROCHET TWO TOGETHER (DC2TOG) [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—1 stitch decreased.

DOUBLE CROCHET THREE TOGETHER (DC3TOG) [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through two loops] three times (four loops on hook), yarn over, draw through all loops on hook—two stitches decreased.

DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (DTR) Yarn over three times and insert the hook in the sixth chain from the hook. Draw a loop through the chain—five loops on hook. Yarn over and draw through two loops at a time four times, completing the double treble crochet. After completing the first row, chain five and turn to begin next row. This chain-five will always count as the first double treble crochet of the row you are working on. With yarn over three times, skip the first stitch and insert the hook in the next stitch. Complete the stitch following Step 2 of first row. Continue until the row is complete.

EXTENDED SINGLE CROCHET (ESC) Insert hook in next stitch or chain, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), yarn over and pull through 2 loops—1 esc completed.

FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET (FSC) Start with a slipknot, chain 2. Insert hook in second chain from hook, pull up a loop. Yarn over, draw through 1 loop (the “chain”). Yarn over, draw through 2 loops (the single crochet). One sc with its own ch st (shaded) at the bottom. *Insert hook under the 2 loops of the “ch” st (shaded) of the last st and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Repeat from * for length of foundation.

FOUNDATION DOUBLE CROCHET (FDC) Chain 3. Yarn over, insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times (Figure 1)—1 foundation double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook under the 2 loops of the chain at the bottom of the stitch just made, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook) (Figure 2), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times (Figure 3). Yarn over, insert hook under the 2 loops of the chain at the bottom of the stitch just made (Figure 4), yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), [yarn over and draw through 2 loops] 2 times. Repeat from (Figure 5).

FOUNDATION HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (FHDC) Ch 3, yarn over, insert hook in 3rd chain from hook, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 1 loop (1 chain made), yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—1 foundation half double crochet. *Yarn over, insert hook under the 2 loops of the “chain” stitch of last stitch and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook; repeat from * for length of foundation.

FRONT POST HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (FPHDC) Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of corresponding stitch below, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.

FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET (FPDC) Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around post of stitch to be worked, yarn over and pull up loop [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 2 times.

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET TWO TOGETHER (HDC2TOG) [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop] 2 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook—1 stitch decreased.

LINKED DOUBLE CROCHET (LDC) Insert hook in horizontal bar on post of last st made, yo and pull up lp, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up lp (3 lps on hook), [yo and draw through 2 lps] 2 times.

REVERSE SINGLE CROCHET (REV SC) Working from left to right, insert crochet hook in an edge stitch and pull up loop, yarn over and draw this loop through the first one to join, insert hook in next stitch to right (Figure 1), pull up a loop, yarn over (Figure 2), and draw through both loops on hook (Figure 3); repeat from .

SINGLE CROCHET TWO TOGETHER (SC2TOG) Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (2 loops on hook, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook—1 stitch decreased.

SLIP-STITCH SEAM

Begin by placing the pieces with right sides together. Hold the pieces in your hand with the two edges facing you. Attach the yarn by inserting your hook through both pieces at the beginning of the seam, pulling up a loop, and chaining 1. Work slip stitches, inserting your hook through both pieces at the same time, from front to back, and pulling up the yarn from behind. Complete the seam and secure the seaming yarn.

TRIPLE TREBLE CROCHET (TTR) * Yarn over 4 times, insert hook in stitch, yarn over and pull up loop (6 loops on hook), yarn over and draw through 2 loops 5 times.

TUNISIAN PURL STITCH (TPS) Tps Forward pass (FwP): *Insert hook from right to left behind front vertical bar, yarn over and pull up loop (see Figure), leave loop on hook; repeat from * to last vertical bar at edge, pick up front and back loops of last bar to create firm edge; return pass.

Return pass (RetP): Yarn over and draw loop through first loop on hook, *yarn over and draw though 2 loops on hook: repeat from * to end, ending with 1 loop on hook.

TUNISIAN SIMPLE STITCH (TSS) Tss forward pass (FwP): *Insert hook from right to left behind front vertical bar (Figure 1), yarn over and pull up loop (Figure 2), leave loop on hook; repeat from * to last vertical bar at edge, pick up front and back loops of last bar to create firm edge; return pass.

Return pass (RetP): Yarn over and draw through first loop on hook *yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook (Figure 3); repeat from * to end, ending with 1 loop on hook.

WHIPSTITCH SEAMS

Place pieces with right sides together. Hold pieces with the 2 edges facing you.

Step 1: Secure seaming yarn on wrong side of one piece. Pass needle through pieces from back to front at start of seam. This creates a small stitch to begin seam.

Step 2: A little farther left, pass needle through pieces, again from back to front, wrapping seam edge. Repeat Step 2 to complete seam. Secure end of seaming yarn.

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empowering crochet awesomeness

Marcy Smith

Crochet It Forward

(see what's behind this beanie at CrochetMe.com)

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