The Art of Crochet for Beginners: Unique Themes and Patterns for your Loved Ones
Author: Gates, Freya
Date: 2019-06-22

THE ART OF CROCHET FOR BEGINNERS

Unique Themes and Patterns for your Loved Ones

Freya Gates

Text Copyright © Freya Gates
All rights reserved. No part of this guide may be reproduced in any form without permission in writing from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.

Legal & Disclaimer

The information contained in this book and its contents is not designed to replace or take the place of any form of medical or professional advice; and is not meant to replace the need for independent medical, financial, legal or other professional advice or services, as may be required. The content and information in this book have been provided for educational and entertainment purposes only.

The content and information contained in this book has been compiled from sources deemed reliable, and it is accurate to the best of the Author's knowledge, information and belief. However, the Author cannot guarantee its accuracy and validity and cannot be held liable for any errors and/or omissions. Further, changes are periodically made to this book as and when needed. Where appropriate and/or necessary, you must consult a professional (including but not limited to your doctor, attorney, financial advisor or such other professional advisor) before using any of the suggested remedies, techniques, or information in this book.

Upon using the contents and information contained in this book, you agree to hold harmless the Author from and against any damages, costs, and expenses, including any legal fees potentially resulting from the application of any of the information provided by this book. This disclaimer applies to any loss, damages or injury caused by the use and application, whether directly or indirectly, of any advice or information presented, whether for breach of contract, tort, negligence, personal injury, criminal intent, or under any other cause of action.

You agree to accept all risks of using the information presented inside this book.

You agree that by continuing to read this book, where appropriate and/or necessary, you shall consult a professional (including but not limited to your doctor, attorney, or financial advisor or such other advisor as needed) before using any of the suggested remedies, techniques, or information in this book.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1 - Gearing Up

Chapter 2 - Starting Small with Simple Projects

Chapter 3 – Across the Globe

Native American

Oriental

European

Chapter 4 - Pop Culture

Chapter 5 – For Our Little Superhero

Chapter 6 – Toy Crochet Patterns

Introduction

The art of crochet has been around for hundreds of years and still continues to exist in these modern times. Yet, among the fibre arts, crochet is the new kid on the block being roughly 200 years old. It is now mentioned in the same breath as knitting and weaving. And this is a big feat as the latter hase been around for a millennium. The the common consensus is that crocheting started in Europe, making its way to other parts of the globe.

This book serves as a compilation of unique designs that you can recreate as gifts to loved ones. Crocheting is a great rewarding craft that doesn’t need too many tools. Open yourself up to a world of endless possibilities with a few simple techniques. The rest stems from your imagination.

The sincere hope is that you will enjoy this book. These ideas should spark the wildest of imaginations and get you started.

Chapter 1 - Gearing Up

Crocheting originated as a way to create beautiful and fanciful laces. With this, a whole system of how to manipulate fabric and hook came into being. Organisations have their own set of secret code words, and the art of crochet is no different. In this chapter, we will give you a run down on the basic terms used throughout the crochet world. Indulge yourself in the world of crocheting - from the tools of the trade to its special vocabulary.

Tools and Yarns

You generally don’t need much gear and equipment to start your journey on crocheting. For beginners, a hook, some yarn, and a pair of good scissors will suffice. Since crocheting uses up 1/3 more yarn than you need with knitting, a good amount of yarn should be stored. While crochet is fantastic with cotton, it can also be done with wool, linen, hemp, alpaca, wool blends, or even good old durable acrylic. While there is always an abundance of cheap cotton, working with high quality yarns can yield amazing results especially when your finished products can be worn afterwards. That said, you don’t need to invest in expensive yarns that can cost you an arm and a leg, especially if you’re just starting out.

Crochet Hooks

Every crochet experience begins with a hook. These are made of plastic, aluminium, or steel, and can also sometimes be available in wood and bamboo. It is made of the following parts: the point or head, throat, shaft, thumb rest or grip, and the handle.

The size of your hook is determined by the diameter of its shaft. For thicker yarns, you would need to use hooks with thicker shafts and vice versa. Thinner hooks also produce smaller loops. Standard hooks are sized using letters, but they can also be referenced by the diameter of their shafts if you want to be more precise.

Yarns

Try stepping into a craft or yarn store and you will be immediately overwhelmed by the myriad of choices. You’ll see bumpy yarns, smooth yarns, puffy and sleek yarns, yarns in different shades of warm and neutral tones, yarns in bright and crazy colours, gradient yarns with multiple colours, yarns with metallic glitz, and a whole lot of other options. When choosing the right yarn for you, you have to consider the end product and its purpose. If they are used for warm or cooling wear, it should not be scratchy and irritating to the skin. Another factor could be its ability to absorb or repel moisture. Is it meant to be hand-washed or simply thrown in the washer? Consider these things first, then choose the yarn for its aesthetics afterwards.

Yarn made from plant sources like cotton, hemp, and linen, are especially absorbent. This makes them a great choice for garments you put on during hot weather. Animal-produced fibres such as silk, sheep’s wool, and angora help keep the warmth inside your body, making them useful for wearing during the cold months. On the other hand, man-made fibres such as acrylic have the benefit of being machine-washable and dryable.

Metal Gauge

This is a rectangular object with a little peephole on its side that is used to measure your gauge. It usually has holes that measures the size of the crochet hook.

Measuring tape

Retractable measuring tapes that help you establish the correct sizing of your work.

Tapestry Needles

Blunt-ended needles that are used at the end of the project when it’s time to weave away the ends and sew the pieces back together.

Scissors

Use embroidery scissors that are nice and small for easy snipping. They are made just for crafts and fabrics and can be folded up too.

Split stitch marker

The use of these markers help you identify the beginning of each round. Slit markers can easily be inserted and lifted right out of your fabric.

Safety Pins

Use safety pins to hold the crochet pieces together before sewing them up, to keep everything lined up and even.

Reading a Pattern

At first glance, crochet patterns may look nothing more than gibberish. Because of the number and types of stitches that go into a single project, each stitch needs to be written out. Hence the hefty use of abbreviations and symbols. This can be a very intimidating and daunting time for beginners. The good news is the more patterns you read, the easier it becomes to recognize each of these symbols and abbreviations.

Always read the section at the beginning of the pattern. This should tell you all you need such as hook size, yarn, garment sizes, gauge, or any special stitches used in the pattern.

When reading a crochet pattern, you will notice a couple of symbols that are being used repeatedly through the process. Each of these bullets, brackets, or parentheses have their own meanings.

Basic abbreviations are as follows: chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), triple or treble crochet (tr or trc).

Terms to represent the things for you to do are: increase or to add one or more stitches (inc), decrease or eliminate one or more stitches (dec), turning your work so you can work back for the next row (turn), joining two stitches together, usually done by working a slip stitch in the top of the next stitch (join), and repeat or doing it again (rep).

A pattern may be worked in rows (which means back and forth to form a flat piece such as an afghan) or in rounds (worked around to form a tube with no seams, such as a hat). Whichever way the pattern is to be worked, the very first thing for you to do is make a slip knot on your hook.

Count the stitches at the end of every row. For example, both instructions below mean the same thing:

Row 1: Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each sc across

Ch 15. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across.

You are to make a slip knot on your hook (keep in mind that patterns never tell you to do this), then make 15 chain stitches to make them loosely. Count the chains closely and carefully. Do not count the slip knot as a stitch, and the loop on the hook is never counted as a stitch as shown in the illustration below:

With the given sample instructions above, you should then have 15 chains. Count the first chain which you will skip away from the hook, then work a single crochet in the 2nd chain away from the hook. Try working a single crochet in and find out that you need to skip the first chain. Now work the single crochet in the 2nd ch from the hook, and in each of the remaining (abbreviated rem) 13 chains.

You have now completed Row 1.  Count your stitches, and take care not to count the loop (abbreviated lp) on the hook, or the slip knot which is now at the end of the row. You should end up with 14 single crochet stitches. Always count the stitches at the end of every row. Most patterns will tell you how many stitches you should have, and here are several ways of telling this: 14 sc, (14 sc), or – 14 sc. Do not confuse this with an instruction to do something. This is just a way to show the number of stitches you should have.

Remember that first chain that was skipped at the start of the row? When working a single crochet, you never work in that chain. Now you have worked Row 1. In your instructions it might say “ch 1, turn”. That means it is time to turn the work so that you can make a row of stitches. You need to work chain 1 to get your yarn high enough to begin the next row. The illustration below shows how to turn the work:

In addition to using a lot of terms and their respective abbreviations, crochet patterns use several symbols to tell you what to do. Crochet patterns often have a series of steps that are repeated several times across a row. Rather that writing these out after time, asterisks (*) are used to indicate the repeats.
An instruction may look something like this: “Row 3: dc in next 3 sts; *ch1, skip next st, dc in next st, rep from * across row (or to end)”. This means that the steps following the asterisk are to be repeated, in order, until you reach the end of the row.

Another way of saying the exact same is this: “Row 3: dc in next 3 st, dc in next st*, rep from * to * across row (or repeat between *’s). Sometimes, you will repeat several steps several times within a row, and then end up doing something else. That can mean you will find ** within the *. A sample pattern of this might read: “Row 3: dc in next 3 sts, *ch 1, skip next st, dc in the next st,** work a shell in the next st; rep from * across row, ending last rep at **. To dissect this instruction, first ignore the ** until the pattern tells you to do something with it. So, you will work the steps following the asterisk across the row, and the last time you will end at the **, meaning you will not work the shell the last time.

Bullets are used to enclose an entire phrase, with a bullet at each end and at the beginning of a phrase, with repeat instructions immediately following.  For example: “SC in next st, ch 1, skip next st, rep from. 4 times”. This means to work the stitches after the bullet once, then repeat those same stitches 4 more times for a total 5 times. Once in a while, you will encounter double bullets. This is used to note a second section to be repeated in any line of instruction, or to note a group of instructions, including at least one single-bullet repeat, that will be repeated. Take this direction, “. Dc in each of next 3 sts, ch 2, skip next 2 sts., rep from. to. twice,  .. dc in each of next 3 sts, ch 2, skip next 2 sts .., rep from. to .. twice, dc in each of last 2 sts.” Simply put, you would work the stitches between the single bullets for a total of 3 times, then work the stitches between the double bullets, which are different than the phrase between the single bullets, a total of 3 times, then complete the rest of the row.

Parentheses are used to isolate a set of stitches that are worked in 1 stitch. For example, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next sc means that in the next single crochet stitch, you work 1 double crochet, chain 1, then another double crochet in the same single crochet. Another term you are likely to encounter are rows and rounds repeated. Rows will be to create something back and forth, like a blanket, while rounds are to create tubes with no seams like for hats. For the statement “Rows 2-10:  ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.” This means that you chain 1, single crochet in each single crochet across, then turn at the end of the row consecutively for 9 rows.

Slip stitch (sl st) is the flattest of all stitches and is used to join rounds, travel from point A to Point B without fastening off the yarn, sew seams, and create combination stitches.

Lesson 1: How to Hold the Crochet Hook

Crochet hooks come in many sizes. Very fine steel hooks are used to make intricate doilies and lace. Larger hooks made of aluminum, plastic or wood are used to make afghans, clothing and household items.

The hooks you will use most often are about 6 inches long and are sized alphabetically from B (the smallest) to Q (the largest).

The crochet hook is the most important tool you will use in learning how to crochet, so it is important to understand each part and its function.

When you look at a crochet hook at first glance it looks like a straight piece with a hook on the end. But when you take a closer look, you will see that each hook typically has 5 necessary parts. It is important to know what each part is used for when learning how to crochet.

First is the hook end (A), which is used to hook the yarn and draw it through other loops of yarn (called stitches). The throat (B) is a shaped area that helps you slide the stitch up onto the next part of the crochet hook called the working area (C).The finger hold, or thumb rest (D), is the flattened area that helps you grip the hook comfortably, usually with your thumb and third finger. The fifth and final part is the handle (E) which rests under your fourth and fifth fingers and provides balance for easy, smooth work.

It is important that every stitch is made on the working area, never on the throat (B), which would make the stitch too tight, and never on the finger hold (D), which would stretch the stitch.

There are different ways of holding the crochet hook. You will need to experiment and find the way that feels the most comfortable for you. If your hand isn’t comfortable, it will cause your hand to cramp up, and your stitches will not be even. We will show you two ways to hold the hook. Again, play around and find the one that feels most natural to you.

The first position is similar to holding a knife, and your hand will grip over the hook. Place your hand over the crochet hook with the handle resting against the palm of your hand and your thumb and third finger gripping the thumb rest.

The second position is similar to holding a pencil. Hold the crochet hook as you would a pencil with your thumb and index finger on the finger hold, and the third finger near the tip of the hook.

The crochet hook should be turned slightly toward you, not facing up or down. The crochet hook should be held firmly, but not tightly. At first you will find yourself gripping tightly but over time, once you feel more comfortable, you will find your hand relaxes.

For demonstration purposes, we will be using the pencil hold. Again, find the way that feels most comfortable to you.

Lesson 2: How to Slip Knot and Chain Stitch

Appearnace in pattern: ch

Crochet usually begins with a series of chain stitches called a beginning or foundation chain. A slip knot is the first step in most crochet projects.

We will begin by making a slip knot on the crochet hook about 6 inces from the free end of the yarn. You will first start by creating a loop with the yarn. Be sure that the free end of the yarn is dangling behind your loop.

Insert the crochet gook through the centre of the loop and hook the free end.

Pull this through and up onto the working area of the crochet hook.

Pull the free yarn end to tighten the loop (see illustration 6). The loop on the crochet hook should be firm, but loose enough to slide back and forth easily on the hook. Be sure you still have about a 6-inch yarn end.

Once you have the yarn wrapped, hold the base of the slip knot with the thumb and index finger of your left hand.

Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and hook it.

Draw the hooked yarn through the loop of the slip knot on the hook and up onto the working area of the crochet hook.

You have now made one chain stitch.

Again, hold the base of the slip knot and bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front.

Hook it and draw though the loop on the hook. You have made another chain stitch. Repeat this step for each additional chain.

It is important to note that you should move the left thumb and index finger up the chain close to the crochet hook after each new stitch or two. This helps you control the work. Also, be sure to pull each new stitch up onto the working area of the hook; otherwise your starting chain stiches will become too tight.

Practice making chains until you are comfortable with your grip of the crochet hook and the flow of the yarn. In the beginning, your work will be uneven, with some chain stitches loose and others tight. While you’re learning, try to keep the chain stitches loose. As your skill increases, the chain should be firm, but not tight, with all chain stiches even in size.

Lesson 3: How to Single Crochet

Appearance in pattern – sc

Single crochet is the shortest and most basic of all stitches.

Remember, you will never work in the first chain from the crochet hook, unless the pattern you are working specifically directs you to do so.

How to Single Crochet Row 1

Step1: Make a slip knot and chain 6. Skip the first chain from the crochet hook, insert hook in the second chain through the centre of the V and under the back bar of the chain. Bring the yarn over the hook from back to front.

Draw yarn through chain and up onto the working area of the crochet hook. You now have two loops on the hook.

Step 2: Again, bring the yarn over the hook from back to front, and draw it through both loops on the crochet hook.

One loop will remain on the hook. You have made a single crochet.

Step 3: Insert hook in the next chain as before, hook the yarn from back to front and draw it through the chain stitch. Yarn over again and draw through both loops. It is important to know that the terms “hook the yarn” and “yarn over” have the same meaning. In both instances, you will bring the yarn over the hook from back to front.

Repeat step 3 in each remaining chain, taking care to work in the last chain, but not in the slip knot. Remember, as you work, to be careful not to twist the chain; keep all the Vs facing you. You have completed one row of single crochet and should now have five stitches in the row.

How to Single Crochet Row 2

To work the second row of single crochet, you need to turn the work counterclockwise, as shown in illustration 22a, so you can work back across the first row. Do not remove the crochet hook as you do this (illustration 22b).

This row and all the following rows of single crochet will be worked into a previous row of single crochet, not into the beginning chain as you did before. Remember that when you worked into the starting chain, you inserted the crochet hook through the center of the V and under the bar. This is only done when working into a starting chain.

The first single crochet of the row is worked in the last stitch of the previous row not into the beginning chain.

Insert hook in the last stitch of the previous row under top 2 loops, bring the yarn over the hook from back to front and draw yarn through stitch and up onto the working area of the crochet hook. You now have two loops on the hook. Again, bring the yarn over the hook from back to front and draw it through both loops on the crochet hook.

Work a single crochet into each single crochet to the end, taking care to work in each stitch, especially the last stitch, which is easy to miss.

Let’s stop now and count your stitches; you should still have five single crochets on the row. You can continue practicing or fasten off.

Fastening off: After the last stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. As you do when you take your crochet hook out for a break, draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end completely through the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end tight to close.

Lesson 4: How to Half Double Crochet

Appearance in pattern – hdc

This stitch eliminates one step from the double crochet stitch and works up about half as tall. Unless your crochet pattern tells you so, never work in the first chain from the crochet hook.

How to Half Double Crochet in Row 1

Step 1: Start by making a slip knot and chain 13. Bring the yarn once over the crochet hook from back to front, then skip the first two chains before inserting the hook in the third chain from the hook. Take note not to count the loop on the hook as a chain.

Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook. With this, you will end up with 3 loops on the hook as illustrated below:

Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through all three loops on the hook in one motion.

You will have completed one half double crochet, with one loop remaining on the hook as seen below:

To finish the row, continue to work one half double crochet in each remaining chain across the row. Once this row is completed, stop and check the count of your stitches. You should have 12 double half crochets, counting the first two chains you skipped at the beginning of the row as a held double crochet. Then turn our work counterclockwise.

How to Half Double Crochet in Row 2

Step 1: Start by bringing together the yarn of thread up to the correct height for the next row. To raise the yarn, chain 2 (also called turning chain). Like double crochet, the turning chain counts as a stitch in half double crochet unless your pattern specifies otherwise.

Chain2, skip the first half double of the previous row. Be sure to insert crochet hook under top 2 loops of the stitch, work a half double crochet in the second stitch and in each remaining stitch across the previous row, as below:

If not fastening just yet, remember to chain 2 before your first half double crochet.

Fastening off: After the last stitch, cut the yarn. Leave a 6-inch end. Draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end completely through the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end to close.

Lesson 5: How to Treble Crochet

Appearance in pattern – tr (or tr dec if decrease)

This is a tall stitch that works up quickly. Remember to never work in the first chain from the crochet hook, unless the pattern you are working specifically directs you to do so.

How to Treble Crochet in Row 1

Step 1: Begin by making a slip know and chain 15 stitches loosely. Wrap the yarn around the crochet hook from back to front twice, skip the first four chains and then insert the hook into the fifth chain from the hook.

Step 2: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook from back to front and draw it through the chain stitch and up onto the working area of the hook. You will then have four loops on the hook.

Step 3: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through the first two loops on the hook. You will end up with three loops on the hook as below.

Step 4: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook again and draw it through the next two loops on the hook. You will end up with two loops remaining on the hook.

Step 5: Bring the yarn over the crochet hook and draw it through both remaining loops on the hook as below.

You have now completed one treble crochet with one loop still remaining on the hook.

Continue working the 5 steps in each of the remaining chains across. When you have worked your last chain, count your stitches. There should be 12 treble crochets, counting the first four chains you previously skipped at the beginning of the row as a treble crochet.

Turn your work counterclockwise and you can begin working row 2.

How to Treble Crochet in Row 2

To work row 2, you need to bring the yarn or thread up to the correct height for the next row. To raise the yarn, chain four (this is called the turning chain). The four chains in the turning chain just made count as the first treble crochet on the new row. Skip the first stitch and work a treble crochet in the second stitch as in the illustration below. Make sure to insert the crochet hook under top two loops of each stitch.

We will continue to work a treble crochet in each remaining stitch across the previous row. Be sure to work the last treble crochet in the top of the beginning chain form the previous row. Stop and count your treble crochets. There should be 12 stitches. You can keep going or fasten off at this point.

Fastening off – After the last stitch, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. Like you do when you take your crochet hook out for a break, draw the hook straight up, but this time draw the cut yarn end and completely through the stitch. Pull the 6-inch end to close.

Lesson 6: How to Crochet a Turning chain

At the end of each row of a crochet pattern, it will say “turn” so you are ready to begin working the next row. The proper way is to turn the work around so that the side that was away from you now faces you and the crochet hook is now at the right-hand side of the work, instead of the left. Before starting the next row, you need to remember to raise the crochet hook and working loop up to the same level of the stitch at the beginning of a new row. This is done by working what is called a turning chain. The number of turning chains needed will vary depending on the type of stitch being worked.

Always keep in mind that you should never work into the first chain from the crochet hook unless your instructions state otherwise. Depending on the stitch, you will work into the second, third, fourth, fifth, etc., chain from the hook. Your instructions will always state which chain you will work.

Slip stitch: Work 1 turning chain

Single crochet: Work 1 turning chain

Half double crochet: Work 2 turning chains

Double crochet: Work 3 turning chains

Lesson 7: How to Join Yarn

This lesson will teach you how to join new yarn at the end of a row whenever possible. To do this, work the last stitch with the old yarn until two loops remain on the hook, then with the new yarn complete the stitch.

To join new yarn in the middle of a row, when about 36 inches of the old yarn remains, work several more stitches with the old yarn, working the stitches over the end of new yarn. Then change yarns in previously explained.

Lesson 8: How to Crochet in the Front and Back loop

Appearance in pattern – front lp or back lp

Working the front or back loops only of a crochet stitch will leave a horizontal bar exposed on the fabric. When working in the back or front loop the crochet fabric becomes more elastic than the traditional way of working under both loops. You can then crochet in the front or back loop only of any crochet stitch.

Below is an example of a traditional crochet stitch wherein you insert the crochet hook from the front of the chain, through the center of the “V” and under the corresponding bar on the back of the same stitch.

To crochet in the back loop of a stitch, insert your crochet hook underneath the back loop only and make the stitch as indicated in your pattern.

To crochet in the front loop of a stitch, insert your crochet hook underneath the front loop only and make the stitch as indicated in your pattern.

Lesson 9: Fastening Off

After the last stitch of the last row, cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch end. Draw the hook straight up and draw the yarn cut end completely through the stitch.

Chapter 2 - Starting Small with Simple Projects

Beginner Crochet Washcloth

Materials:

Yarn – Any worsted weight yarn-pattern that uses cotton Lily Sugar N Cream in Batik, White, or Grey (you may choose from any colour you like)

Hook – Size K hook

Stitches used –single crochet (sc)

Tapestry needle, scissors

Directions:

Chain 19

* Single crochet in second chain from hook. Single crochet in each stitch across row. At the end of the row chain one, turn*

Repeat from * to * until width desire is obtained.

Washcloth Set Crochet Pattern

Materials:

Yarn – Any worsted weight yarn, universal cotton supreme in colours dusty rose and navy or whichever you prefer

Hook – Size 5.5 mm

Gauge – 2” = 5.5 mm crochet

Stitches used –single crochet (sc), chain (ch), st(s) – stitch(es), double crochet (dc)

Approx. finished dimensions – 9.5” by 9.5”

Tapestry needle, scissors

Directions:

Chain 26

Row 1: Sc into the second ch from the hook and into each st across

Row 2: ch 1 turn. Sc into each st across

Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc into each of the first 2 sts. *sc into the next st, dc into the following st; repeat from * across. Sc into the last 3 sts.

Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc into the first st. *Sc into the next st, dc into the following st; repeat from * across. Sc into the last 2 sts.

Row 5-29: Repeat Rows 3 and 4

Row 30-31: Ch 1, turn. Sc into each st across.

Cut yarn and tie off, weave in all ends.

Crochet Coffee Cosy Sleeve

Materials:

Yarn – Chunky

Hook – Size N hook, 9mm

Stitches used – chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), half-double crochet (hdc)

Tapestry needle, scissors

Directions:

Row 1: Ch 20, sl st to join.

Rows 2-5: Ch 1, then hdc around (20 stitches) st to join

Row 6: sc around, weave in ends.

Hand Towel

Materials:

Yarn – Any DK weight cotton works for this. You will need 2 50g balls of knit picks Kotlin dk yarn in swan/natural, 1 50g ball of knit picks Kotlin dk yarn in planetarium/navy, 1 50g ball of knit picks Kotlin dk yarn in sagebrush/teal, 1 50g ball of knit picks Kotlin yarn in Moroccan red/red

Hook – Size H hook, 5.5mm

Gauge – 12 stitches and 14 rows = 4in/10cm worked in the pattern (rows of pique stitch and single crochet)

Stitches used –chain (ch), single crochet (sc), pique stitch (instructions below), slip stitch (sl st), st (stitch)

Tapestry needle, scissors

How to work pique stitch:

Yarn over and insert the hook into the 3rd ch from the hook or the first stitch of the row.

Yarn over and draw up a loop. You should have three loops on the hook. At this point, the stitch is like a double crochet, but the following step is a little different.

Yarn over and draw it over through two loops. You should have two loops on the hook.

Yarn over and insert the hook into the same ch or stitch as you did at the beginning. Draw up a loop. You should have four loops on the hook.

Yarn over one more time and draw it through all four loops. You should then have one loop on the hook. This completes the first pique stitch.

Directions:

Ch 32 loosely for a starting chain.

Row 1: Starting in the 3rd ch from the hook, work a pique stitch in every ch (30 sts) ch 1 for a turning chain and turn.

Row 2: sc in every st. ch 2 for a turning chain and turn.

Row 3: Pique st in every st. ch 1 for a turning chain and turn.

Row 4: sc in every st. ch 2 for a turning chain and turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4.

Change to the navy yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 two times.

Change to the natural yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 one time.

Change to the teal yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 two times.

Change to the natural yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 one time.

Change to the red yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 two times.

Change to the natural yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 seven times.

Change to the red yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 two times.

Change to the natural yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 one time.

Change to the teal yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 two times.

Change to the natural yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 one time.

Change to the nav yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 two times.

Change to the natural yarn and repeat rows 3 and 4 three times.

Secure the last st and trim the yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.

To add a border to the towel, attach the natural yarn in the upper left corner and work a border of single crochet around the entire towel. Space the stitches as even as possible on the sides.

To make an edgier decorative, you can do that instead of putting in the border.

When you reach the upper left corner again, ch 16.

Sl st in the 5 ch from the hook. This makes the button loop.

Sl st in each of the remaining chs as you work back towards the towel. Sl st in the sc at the corner.

Secure the last stitch trim the yarn with a 12-inch tail.

To attach a button for hanging, weave a tail through the first row or two of the towels and then use it to sew the button in place.

Secure the yarn and weave in any remaining ends.

Use the hanging loop to attach the towel around an oven or cabinet handle, or simply to hang it on a hook.

Reusable face Scrubbies

Materials:

Yarn – Any worsted weight yarn-pattern that uses cotton (about 8 yards)

Hook – Size H hook, 5mm

Stitches used – chain (ch), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (sl st), half double crochet (hdc)

Tapestry needle, scissors

Directions:

Ch 4 and join with sl st to form a ring.

Round 1: ch 2 and then sc into the centre. Repeat this 4 times. Ch 2 and join to first stitch with sl st.

You should have 12 stitches around the circle.

Round 2: [hdc into the gap from the previous round 2 times, ch 1] Repeat this 5 times. Hdc into the gap from the previous round. Ch 1 and join to first stitch with sl st.

You should have 18 stitches around the circle.

Round 3: ch 2 [sc 2, ch1] Repeat this 8 times. Sc 2. Join to first stitch with sl st.

You should have 27 stitches around the circle.

Round 4: [ch 3 and then sl st into the next sc] Repeat 12 times. Ch 3 and then sl st in the last stitch.

Secure the last stitch and weave in ends with a yarn or tapestry needle.

Beginner Crochet Heart

Materials:

Yarn – Any worsted weight yarn, 4-5 yards

Hook – Crochet hook in the size that matches your yarn

Stitches used – chain (ch), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (sl st), st (stitch), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc)

Tapestry needle, scissors

Directions:

Make a slip knot and then ch 4 and join with sl st to form a ring.

Turn your work so that the slip knot is at the back of your work.

Round 1: work sc stitches

Ch 1 for a turning chain and then sc into the centre of the ring 10 times.

Join with sl st into the slip stitch form when you formed the ring. In a typical round form, you would join to the turning chain, but by changing the placement of the join, it helps shape the heart indent.

You should have 11 stitches around the circle by this time.

Round 2: work dc and hdc stitches.

Skip the turning chain and make your first double crochet into the first single crochet from round one.

[dc, ch 1] 2 times. [hdc, ch 1] 2 times.

Dc, ch 1.

[hdc, ch 1] 2 times. [dc, ch 1] 2 times.

Sl st in the last two stitches.

You should have 19 stitches around the circle, which now looks more like a heart.

Round 3: work sc stitches.

Ch 1 for a turning chain.

[sc, ch 1] 8 times. Work the single crochets into the stitches instead of the gaps from the chain stitches on round two.

Sc 2 into the chain before the dc. Ch 1.

[sc, ch 1] 9 times. Sl st in the last stitch.

To finish your crochet heart, cut the yarn, leaving about six inches. Secure the last stitch and weave in the ends with a yarn or tapestry needle.

As you secure the yarn at the heart indent, weave the needle towards the indent, which helps complete the heart shape.

Potholder

Materials:

Yarn – Lily “Sugar’ n Cream” 4 ply worsted-weight yarn (100% cotton)

Hook – Crochet hook size i-9 US size or size available that is needed to obtain gauge

Measurements – 71/4 inches wide x 71/4 inches long

Gauge – 11 sts and 13 rows sc = 3 in.

Stitches used – chain stitch (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc)

Directions:

Foundation chain: Ch 26

Row 1 (right side): Sc in 2nd from hook, sc in each ch across (25 sc), turn

Rows 2-29: Ch 1, sc in each sc across (25 sc), turn

Row 30: Ch 1, sc in each across (25 sc), do not turn

Edging: Working across side edge of potholder, work 1 sc in each row-end st across to next corner, work 3 sc in corner st, sc in each ch opposite side of foundation chain to next corner, work 3 sc in corner st, working across next side edge, work 1 sc in each row-end st across to next corner.

Finishing: Make a hanging loop – ch 10, sl st in next sc to join, forming a loop. Fasten this off.

For a heavier and thicker potholder, make two potholders using this same pattern, being careful to omit the edging. Once these potholders are complete, put the wrong sides together, matching the stitches, then crochet the ending through the double thickness of both potholders. For a larger potholder, increase the number of chain stitches in the foundation row until desired width is obtained. Then increase the number of rows worked accordingly so that the potholder forms a square.

Headband

Materials:

Yarn – Lion brand yarn “Trellis” bulky-weight ribbon yarn

Hook – Crochet hook size H-7 US size or size available that is needed to obtain gauge

Tapestry needle

Measurements – 13/4 inches wide x 18 in. in circumference

Gauge – 5 sts and 5 rows sc = 1 in.

Stitches used – chain stitch (ch), single crochet (sc)

Directions:

Foundation chain: Ch 9

Row 1 (right side): Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch across (8 sc), turn

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across (8 sc), turn

Repeat Row 2 until headband measures 18 in. or fits the circumference of your head. Fasten off, leaving a sewing length of about 10 in.

Finishing: With the right sides of the headband facing, line up the stitches across from each other, and using the whipstitch, sew the last row to the foundation chain by using the tapestry needle and sewing length.

Scarf

Materials:

Yarn – patons “CiCi” super bulky-weight yarn

Hook – Crochet hook size M-13 US size or size available that is needed to obtain gauge

Measurements – 6inches wide x 621/2 in. long

Gauge – 6 sts and 6 rows sc = 1 in.

Stitches used – chain stitch (ch), single crochet (sc)

Directions:

Foundation chain: Ch 13

Row 1:  Sc in 2nd from hook, sc in each ch across (12 sc), turn

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across (12 sc), turn

Repeat Row 2 until scarf measures 621/2 in. or desired length. Fasten off.

Wool Blanket / Warmer

Materials:

Yarn – Lion brand yarn “Wool-Ease Thick and Quick)

Hook – Crochet hook size M-13 US size or size available that is needed to obtain gauge

Measurements – 501/2 in. wide x 76 in. long

Gauge – 6 sts = 4 in.; 5 rows in pat = 4 in.

Stitches used – chain stitch (ch), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), triple crochet (tr)

Directions:

Foundation chain: Ch 124 + 2 (first hdc)

Row 1:  Hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across (125 hdc), turn

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first hdc, tr in next hdc, sc in next hdc., rep from. to. across to within last 2 hdc, tr in next hdc, sc in turning ch (125 sts), turn.

Row 3: Ch 2 (first hdc), hdc in each st across (125 hdc), turn,

Row 4: Ch 3 (first dc), dc in each hdc across, dc in turning ch (125 dc), turn.

Row 5: Ch 2 (first hdc), hdc in each dc across, hdc in turning ch (125 hdcd), turn.

Rows 6-57: Rep Rows 2-5 (13 times).

Rows 58-59: Rep Rows 2-3. Fasten off.

Add stitches to your foundation chain to make a bigger blanket or warmer. Do this until you reach the desired length. Make sure that you end with an odd number of stitches so that the pattern in Row 2 works. Then adjust the width by repeating Rows 2-5 as many times as you ant. For this type of project, you may need extra skins of yarn. Alternatively, you may also use super-bulky weight chenille yarn using the same size hook for this pattern.

Table Runner

Materials:

Yarn – Aunt Lydia’s “Quick Crochet” worsted-weight thread

Hook – Crochet hook size H-8 US size or size available that is needed to obtain gauge

Measurements – 131/4 in. wide x 301/4 in. long

Gauge – 16 sts and 16 rows in pat = 3 in.

Stitches used – chain stitch (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc). Dec 1 sc: (Insert hook in next st, yo, draw yarn through st) twice yo, draw yarn through 3 loops on hook.

Directions:

Foundation chain: Ch 4

Row 1:  Sc in 2nd from hook, ch 1, skip next ch, sc in last ch (3 sts), turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in first sc (inc made), sc in next ch-1 space, (ch 1, sc)) in last sc (inc made) (5 sts), turn.

Rows 3-34: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in first sc (inc made), sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, skip next sc., rep from. to. across to within last sc, sc in last sc (69 sts at end of last row), turn.

Row 35: Ch 1, dec 1 sc in first sc and ch-1 space, ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch-1 space., rep from. to. across to within last 2 sts, dec 1 sc in next ch-1 space and last sc (67 sts), turn.

Rows 36-57: Ch 1, dec 1 sc in first sc and ch-1 space, ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch-1 space., rep from. to. across to within last 2 sts, dec 1 sc in next ch-1 space and last sc (23 sts at end of last row), turn.

Rows 58-80: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in first sc (inc made), sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, skip next sc., rep from. to. across to within last sc, sc in last sc (69 sts at end of last row), turn.

Rows 81-103: Ch 1, dec 1 sc in first and ch-1 space, ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch-1 space., rep from. to. across to within last 2 sts, dec 1 sc in next ch-1 space and last sc (23 sts at end of last row), turn.

Rows104-126: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in first sc (inc made), sc in next ch-1 space, ch 1, skip next sc., rep from. to. across to within last sc, sc in last sc 969 sts at end of last row), turn.

Rows 127-159: Ch 1, dec 1 sc in first sc and ch-1 space, ch 1, skip next sc, sc in next ch-1 space., rep from. to. across to within last 2 sts, dec 1 sc in next ch-1 space and last sc (3 sts at end of last row), turn. Do not fasten off.

Edging: Ch 1, sc in each st around entire outside edge of runner, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Shawl

Materials:

Yarn – Bernat “Soft Boucle” bulky-weight yarn

Hook – Crochet hook size K-101/2 US size or size available that is needed to obtain gauge

Measurements – 341/2 in. from bottom point to top edge; 681/2 in. across top edge

Gauge – 10 sts and 10 rows hdc = 4 in.

Stitches used – chain stitch (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc). Dec 1 hdc: Yo, (insert hook in next st, yo, draw yarn through st) twice, yo, draw yarn through 4 loops on hook.

Directions:

Foundation chain: With MC, ch 167 + 2 (first hdc).

Row 1 (right side): Hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch across (168 hdc), turn.

Row 2 (wrong side): Ch 2 (first hdc), dec 1 hdc in next 2 hdc, hdc in each hdc across to within last 3 hdc, dec 1 in next 2 hdc, hdc in top of turning ch (166 hdc), turn.

Rows 3-84: Ch 2 (first hdc), dec 1 hdc in next 2 hdc, hdc in each hdc across to within last 3 hdc, dec 1 hdc in next 2 hdc, hdc in top of turning ch (2 hdc at end of last row), turn.

Row 85: Dec 1 hdc in 2 hdc (1 hdc). Fasten off.

Edging: With right side facing, join CC in first hdc at top right-hand corner, ch 1, working across top edge of shawl, sc in first hdc, ch 1. Sc in next hdc, ch 1. Rep from. to. across to next corner, (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner st, ch 1, working in row-end sts across side edges of shawl, rep from. to. across to next corner, (sc, ch 1, sc) in bottom point, ch 1, working in row-end sts across next side edge, rep from. to. across to top right-hand corner, (sc, ch 1, sc) in corner st, ch 1, sl st in first sc to join. Fasten off.

Fingerless Gloves

Materials:

Yarn – Any light-worsted weight yarn

Hook – Size G hook, 6 – 4.25mm

Stitches used – chain (ch), single crochet (sc), each (ea) st (stitch), repeat (rep), treble crochet (tr)

Tapestry needle, scissors

Directions:

Chain 30.

Row 1: tr in 4th ch from hook and I ea st across the foundation row. Ch 3, turn.

Row 2: Work tr 1 in ea st across the row. Ch 3, turn.

Rep row 2 until piece measures approximately 6 1/8 inches or desired size.

To determine which size gloves you want to make, measure the circumference around your hand

(or the hand of the intended wearer) at the widest point above the thumb but below the finger.

When you are using a stretchy material yarn such as wool, you may wish to make your gloves size smaller than your actual hand measurement since the material will stretch enough, making a comfortable fit. But for an inelastic yarn that does not stretch very much, measure a glove size that is closest to your actual hand measurement.

For Teen size or Adult size extra small: Rep row 2 until piece measures approx. 6 1/8 inches or desired size.

For adult size / medium: Rep row 2 until piece measures approx. 7 inches.

For adult size medium / large: Rep row 2 until piece measures approx. 7 7/8 inches.

Before finishing the gloves, check to see if they fit well. Put a safety pin in the active loop and then pin the sides of the gloves together and see how it fits around the hand of the intended wearer. If it feels right and comfortable, finish it off. Crochet another row or as many rows until it feels comfortable if it is too tight. If it is too loose, carefully unravel a row of stitches.

Once you are satisfied with the fit, end off, leaving a trail of about 24 inches of yarn, which you will use for stitching the side seams of your gloves.

Use whip stitch to sew the side seam of the gloves. Thread the tapestry needle using the 24-inch tail of yarn.

Fold the flat glove in half so the top and bottom edges match.

Begin whip stitching in the corner. Go through 6 or 7 stitches, or about 2 inches then leave a gap for thumb hole.

To form the thumb hole, reinforce the start of the thumb opening by sewing through the same stitch several times. The thumb opening is likely to see a lot of wear and tear, so this step is a very important one.

Continue whip stitching in the same direction across the piece, but stitch through only one side. Go through 8 or 9 stitches or about 2 1/2 inches.

At the other end of the thumb opening, sew a few more stitches in the same spot for more reinforcement. Continue whip stitching through both layers to complete the gloves.

Repeat these steps again to finish the other glove. Make sure they match each other before weaving your ends in.

When you are finish with sewing the gloves and they already match each other, weave the remainder of your ends into the work so that they are hidden and are secured well. You can now wear your new hand-crafted gloves or wrap them up as a handmade gift.

Ribbed Boot Cuffs

Materials:

Yarn – Any worsted weight yarn

Hook – Size I hook. 5.50 mm

Stitches used – chain (ch), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (sl st), back loop single crochet (blsc), turn (t)

Gauge – 14 st x 17 r = 4” in blsc

Tapestry needle, scissors

Directions:

Row 1: ch 19, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across st (18).

Row 2: ch 1, t, blsc in each st across (18)

Repeat row 2 until piece measures 8” across (upstretched) or until desired length.

Ch 1 and insert your hook through the 1st st on both edges and sl st to join the edges of the boot cuff.

Repeat all the way down to the side. Cut the yarn and weave in ends. Repeat for the other boot cuff.

Beginner Crochet Leg Warmers

Materials:

Yarn – 2-3 skeins Lion Brand Landscapes in the colourway of your choice (sand dune and desert spring in sample picture)

Hook – Size 6 mm hook

Stitches used – chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), double crochet (dc)

Gauge – 14” in circumference 11” long

Darning needle, scissors

Directions:

Ch 35. Make sure this fits around your calf at the widest point.

Join with a sl st to the first chain. Make sure your chain is not twisted.

Round 1: Ch 3. Dc into each chain. Join with a sl st to the 3rd chain.

Rounds 2-28: Ch 3. Dc into each stitch. Join with a sl st into the 3rd chain.

Bind off and weave in your ends.

Fall Bunting Crochet

Materials:

Yarn – Size 4 yarn in 2 colours (the sample picture uses Red Heart Super Saver in Aran and Fall), refer to Colour A as main colour and Colour B as the complimentary colour used in 3 stripes

Hook – Size J hook, 6 mm

Stitches used – chain (ch), single crochet (sc), foundation double crochet (fdc), double crochet (dc)

Gauge – 4” across = 13 dc, finished size: each rectangle is 4.5” wide x 6.25” tall

Yarn needle, scissors

Directions:

Row 1: Using colour A, 14 fdc. Or, if you don’t prefer foundation double crochet, do this: Chain 16. Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook and in each chain across. (14)

Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the same stitch and in each stitch across. (14) Change to colour B and finish off colour A.

Row 3: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the same stitch and in each stitch across. Change to colour A and finish of colour B.

Row 4: Ch 2. Turn. Dc in the same stitch and in each stitch across. Change to colour B and finish off colour A. (14)

Row 5. Ch 2. Turn. Dc in the same stitch and in each stitch across. Change to colour A and finish off colour B (14)

Row 6: Ch 2. Turn. Dc in the same stitch and in each stitch across. Change to colour B and finish off colour A. (14)

Row 7: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the same stitch and in each stitch across. Change to Colour A and finish off Colour B. (14) The rest of the pattern will be completed with colour A.

Row 8: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the same stitch and in each stitch across. (14)

Row 9: Ch 2. Turn. Dc in the same stitch and in each stitch across. (14)

Rows 10-15: Repeat Rows 8 and 9. (14)

Finish off and weave in all your ends.

To attach the rectangles, start by holding two strands of colour A together, then begin to crochet a yarn. You can make this beginning section of the chain (before you attach the first rectangle) as long as you like.

Attach the first rectangle by using the two strands of Colour A to single crochet along the top stitches of the rectangle (14 stitches). After the last stitch of the rectangle, continue chaining again. You can then adjust the length of your chain depending on how much gap you want between your rectangles. I chained 10 to achieve 3 inches between my rectangles.

Repeat this process for each rectangle. After the last rectangle, crochet a chain the same length as the beginning chain you created before your first rectangle was attached. Finish off your chain.

Add decorative elements to your chain or rectangles as desired.

Colour Block Bag

Materials:

Yarn – Light worsted yarn DK – Cascade Ultra Prima x 3 colours (yellow rose, Light gray, and gray)

Hook – Size H hook, 5mm

Stitches used – chain (ch), st (stitch), double crochet (dc)

4 metal D-rings

Finished size – 12” wide x 14” wide

Darning needle, scissors

Directions:

Chain 54 with colour A

Row 1: In the second chain from the hook sc. Sc in each stitch across the row. Ch 1.

Row 2-4: Sc in each stitch across the row. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 5-18: Sc, dc into the first stitch, skip a stitch, *sc, dc into the next stitch, skip a stitch*repeat* until the end, ending with a single crochet in the last stitch. Ch1 and turn.

Row 19-36: Change to colour B. Sc, dc into the first stitch, skip a stitch, *sc, dc into the next stitch, skip a stitch*repeat* until the end, ending with a single crochet in the last stitch. Ch1 and turn.

Row 37-75: Change to colour C. Sc, dc into the first stitch, skip the stitch, *sc, dc into the next stitch, skip a stitch * repeat * until the end, ending with a single crochet in the last stitch. Ch1 and turn.

Row 76-92: Change to colour B. Sc, dc into the first stitch, skip a stitch, *sc, dc into the next stitch, skip a stitch, * repeat*, until the end, ending with a single crochet in the last stitch. Ch 1 and turn.

Row 93-106: Change to colour A. Sc, dc into the first stitch, skip a stitch, *sc, dc into the next stitch, skip a stitch, *repeat* until the end, ending with a single crochet in the last stitch. Ch1 and turn.

Row 107-110: Sc in every stitch across the row.

Cut the yarn, weave in ends.

For the finishing, fold in the finished rectangle half and seam up the two edges. You may also use the mattress stitch to join the ends of the bag.

Using colour, A, sew D-rings onto bag approximately ½” from the top of the bag.

Crochet 2 cords for the handles. Each handle should be 18” long or whatever length you prefer. Secure cord to d-ring using a double knot.

Chapter 3 – Across the Globe

Native American

Navajo Ripples Dishcloth

Materials:

Yarn – 4 medium weight or worsted weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches)

Hook – Crochet hook size H-8 US size or 5mm hook

Stitches used – chain stitch (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc)

Directions:

Ch 50 loosely

Row 1 (sc, 2 dc in second ch from the hook, * skip the next 2 chs, (sc 2dc) in the next dc; repeat from * across to the last 3 chs, sc in the last ch

Row 2: Ch 1, turn; (sc,2dc) in the first sc and in each sc across to the last sc, Sc in the last sc.

Border

Rnd 1. Ch 1, sc in same sp. Sc in each st around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Rnd 2. Ch 7, dc in the 4th from the hook, dc in the same st as joining, skip the nest 3 sc, * dc in the next sc, ch 4, dc in 4th ch from the hook, dc in same sc, skip next 3 sc; rep from “ around; join with sp to the 3rd ch of beginning ch 7, finish off.

Indian Blanket

Materials:

Yarn – Yarn group B

Hook – Crochet hook size J-10 US size or 6mm hook or size needed to get 1 repetition with zigzag pattern = width 15 cm/6”

Measurements – About 90 x 120 cm/ 35 ½” x 47”

Stitches used – chain stitch (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc)

Notes:

If a wider blanket is preferred, beg with an extra 32 ch for every extra repetition desired in width. Repeat explanation in 1st and 2nd row from *. * one more time for every extra repetition added. Work until desired length.

Directions:

Stripes: 1 row in diagram = 1 row in dc

Blanket: Ch 194 loosely (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 6mm/J-10 with beige brown.

Then work stripes according to A.1 – see explanation above, while working at the same time the zigzag pattern as follows:

Row1:Work1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 12 ch, * skip ch 4, 1 dc in each of the next 14 ch, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 14 ch *, repeat from *.* 4 more times, skip ch 4, 1 dc in each of the last 14 ch + 168 dc.

Row 2: ch 3(= 1 dc), 1 dc in same dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc, * skip 4 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 12 dc, 2 dc in ch space, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in each of the next 12 dc *, repeat from *.* 4 more times, skip 4 dc, finish with 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc and 2 dc in each of the last 2 dc = 168 dc.

Repeat 2nd row upwards until stripes in A.1 have been worked, blanket measures approximately 120 cm / 47” in length.

Apache Tears Afghan

Materials:

Yarn – 16 sk, 4 ply yarn, 2 sks each of colour A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H

Hook – Crochet hook size H-8 US size or size available that is needed to obtain gauge

Measurements – About 50” x 72”

Stitches used – chain stitch (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc)

Notes:

Each row is worked from the right side, beginning at the right edge by leaving 5” or yarn at beginning of row; 6” of yarn when fastening off at the ends of row. These strands are for fringes. If making a child-sized afghan, do not use fringe.

Every 4 rows, change colours.

Work all sc in back loop of st in previous row, work all Tr in front loop of st 3 rows below, sk sc behind. Ch 254 (ch 203 for 40” width) with colour A.

Directions:

Rows 1-4: Sc across

Rows 5: With colour B, *Tr in st 3 below, sc in next 6 sc, repeat from * across.

Row 6: Sc in 1st Tr, *Tr in st 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sts, repeat from * across.

Row 7: Sc in 1st 2 sts *tr in st 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sts, repeat from * across.

Row 8: Sc in 1st 3 sts *Tr in st 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sts, repeat from * across.

Row 9: With colour C, sc in 1st 4 sts *Tr in st 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sts, repeat from * across.

Row 10: Sc in 1st 5 sts *Tr in st 3 rows below, sc in next 6 ts, repeat from * across.

Row 11: Sc in 1st 6 sts *Tr in st 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sts, repeat from * across.

Row 12: Sc in 1st 7 sts. *Tr in st 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sts, repeat from * across.

Row 13: With colour D, #Tr in st 3 rows below, sc in next 6 sts, repeat from * across.

Repeat rows 6-13 for pattern. With each new row, the tear is one st over from the previous row. Repeat colour sequence of A-H for a total of 5 times.

Finishing: Know 2 adjusting strands on sides close to work. If preferred, make fringe to match on ends.

Oriental

Persian Tiles Afghan

Materials:

Yarn – Red Heart “Super saver”: 15 ounces No. 313 Aran CA and 17 ounces No. 376 Burgundy CB

Hook – Crochet hook size 1-9 US size or 5.5mm hook

Measurements – About 46” x 51”

Gauge – Square = 5 ¼ in or use any size hook to obtain the gauge

Directions:

FIRST SQUARE

With CA, ch 4; join with a sl st to form a ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, 15 dc in ring; join with a sl st to top of ch-3 – 16sts. Fasten off.

Rnd 2 (work all back lps): Attach CB in the back lp of any dc; ch 1, sc in same dc as joining, (2 sc in next dc, sc in next dc) 7 times, 2 sc in last dc; join in back lp of first sc – 24 sc.

Fasten off.

Rnd 3 (Work all in back lps): Attach CA in the back lp of any sc; ch 1, sc in same sc as joining and next 2 sc, * skip next sc, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in next sc, skip next sc **, sc in next 3 sc; rep from * around, end at **; join in both lps of first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd 4: Attach CB in same sc as joining, ch 3, dc in next 2 sc, * ch 3, (sc, ch 2, sc) all in ch-3 sp, ch 3 **, dc in next 3 sc; rep from * around, end at **; join in top of ch-3. Fasten off.

Rnd 5: Attach CA in same st as joining; ch 1, sc in same st, * ch 3, skip next dc, sc in next dc, (ch 3, sc in next sp) 3 times, ch 3 **, sc in next dc; rep from * around, end at **; join. Fasten off.

Rnd 6: Attach CB in next ch-3 sp (above the dc of Rnd 4); (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) all in same sp, * ch 3, skip next sp, (sc in next sp, ch 3) twice, skip next sp **, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) all in next sp; rep from * around, end at **; joi. Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

SECOND SQUARE

Rnds 1-5: Work same as first square.

When joining, hold squares with wrong sides together. Rnd 6-Joining Rnd: Attach CB in next ch – 3 sp (above the dc of Rnd 4); ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, sl st in corresponding ch-5 corner sp on completed square, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp on square in progress, ch 1, sl st in next ch-3 sp on completed square, ch 1, skip next sp on square in progress, (sc in next sp, ch 1, sl st in next sp on completed square, ch 1) twice, skip next sp, 3 dc in next corner sp, ch 2, sl st in corner sp on completed square, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp on square in progress – one side joined; * ch 3, skip next sp, (sc in next sp, ch 3) twice, skip next sp **, (3 dc, ch 5, 3 dc) all in next sp; rep from * around, end at **; join. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Continue to join squares on in this manner for an afghan 9 squares long by 8 squares wide; join on one side or two sides as required. When joining to previously joined corners, sl st in the sl st of the previous joining for a neat finish.

BORDER

With right side facing, join CB in a dc before any corner ch-5 sp; ch 3, *** 7 dc in ch-5 sp, * dc in next 3 dc, (3 dc in sp, dc in sc) twice, 3 dc in sp, dc in next 3 dc **, 3 dc in sp, dc in joining, 3 dc in sp; rep from * to next corner, end at **; rep from *** around, end at ** working dc in last 2 instead of 3 dc; join. Fasten off.

Rnd 2: With right side facing, attaching, attach CA in the dc after the joining (first dc of 7 corner dc); ch 1, sc in same dc, ch 2, skip next 2 dc, ** (sc, ch 2, sc) all in next dc, ch 2, skip next 2 dc, * sc in next dc, ch 2, skip next 2 dc; rep from * to next corner; rep from ** around; join in first sc. Fasten off.

Rnd3: With right side facing, attach Cb in the ch 2 sp before the corner; ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ** 5 dc in corner sp, * 3 dc in next sp; rep from * to next corner; rep from ** around; join in top of ch-3. Fasten off and weave in ends.

European

Swedish Countryside Blanket

Materials:

Yarn – 4 medium weight/worsted weight and Aran (16-20 stitches to 4 inches) Patons décor - Main Colour (MC) Aran (87602) 4 balls, Contrast A Frond (8721) 4 balls, Contrast B barn Red (87714) 2 balls, Contrast C Pale Oceanside (87104) 3 balls, Contrast D Mimosa (87609) 2 balls

Hook – Crochet hook size H-8 US size or 5mm hook

Measurements – About 53” x 58” (134.5cm x 147.5cm)

Gauge - 14 sc and 17 rows = 4” (10 cm)

Notes:

Work to last 2 loops on hook of previous to change colours and draw new colour through.

When working with more than 2 colours within 1 row, carry colour not in use loosely across top of previous row. Work new sts around carried colours.

Ch 2 at beg of row does not count as hdc.

Directions:

With C, ch 171

First row: (RS). 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in each ch to end of ch. Turn. 170 sc.

2nd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn.

3rd row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 2 sc. *dcfp around next sc 2 rows below. Skip sc behind dcfp just worked. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn.

4th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st to end of row. Turn.

5th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each of first 2 sc. *1 dcfp around next 2 dcfp rows below. Skip sc behind dcfp just worked. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn.

6th and 7th rows: As 4th and 5th rows.

8th row: As 4th row, join A at end of row. Turn.

9th row: With A, as 5th row.

10th and 11th rows: With A, as 4th and 5th rows.

12th row: As 4th row.

13th row: Ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in next st. Join MC. *With MC, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts. With A, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts. Rep from * to end of row. Turn.

14th row: With MC, ch 2. 1 hdc in each dc to end of row. Turn.

15th row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each of first 2 hdc. *With B, bobble in next hdc. With MC, 1 hdc in each of next 3 hdc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn.

16th row: With MC, ch 2. 1 hdc in each st to end of row. Join A. Turn.

17th row: As 13th row.

18th row: With A, ch 1. 1 sc in each of next 4 sts. *2 sc in next st. 1 sc in each of next 3 sts. 2 sc in next 2 sts. 2 sc in next st. 1 sc in each of last 2 sts. Join D. Turn. 217 sts.

19th row: With D, ch 1. 1 sc in first st. *Ch 1. Skip next st. 1 sc in next st. Rep from * to end of row. Join C. Turn.

20th row: With C, ch 1. 1 sc in first st. *1 in next ch-1 sp. Skip next sc. Rep from * to last 2 sts. 1 sc in first st. *1 sc in next ch-1 sp. 1 sc in last sc. Join A. Turn.

21st row: With A, ch 1. 1 sc in first st. *Ch 1. Skip next sc. 1 sc in next ch-1 sp. Rep from * to last 2 sts. Ch 1. Skip next sc. 1 sc in last sc. Join MC. Turn.

22nd row: With MC, as 20th row. Join B. Turn.

23rd row: With B, as 21st row. Join D. Turn.

24th row: With D, as 20th row. Join C. Turn.

25th row: With C, as 21st row. Join A. Turn.

26th row: With A, as 20th row. Join MC. Turn.

27th row: With MC, as 21st row. Join B. Turn.

28th row: With B, as 20th row. Join D. Turn.

29th row: With D, as 21st row. Join C. Turn.

30th row: With C, as 20th row. Join A. Turn.

31st row: With A, as 21st row. Join MC. Turn.

32nd to 41st rows: Rep 22nd to 31st rows once more.

42nd to 44th rows: As 2nd to 24th rose, ending last row with join A. Turn.

45th row: With A, ch 1. 1 sc in each of next 2 sts. Rep from *Sc2tog. 1 sc in each of next 3 sts. SC2tog. 1 sc in each of next 2 sts. Rep from * to last 6 sts. 1 sc in each of next 2 sts. Sc2tog. 1 sc in each of last 2 sts. Turn.

46th row: Ch 1. 1 sc in each st to end of row. Turn.

47th row to 52nd rows: As 3rd to 8th rows. Join MC. Turn.

53rd row: With MC, as 5th row.

54th and 55th rows: As 4th and 5th rows.

56th row: As 4th row.

57th row: With MC, ch 3 (counts as dc). 1 dc in next * With B, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts. With MC, 1 dc in each of next 2 sts. Rep from * to end of row. Turn.

58th row: With B, ch 2. 1 hdc in each dc to end of row. Turn.

59th row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each of first 2 hdc. *With D, Bobble in next hdc. With B, 1 hdc in each of next 3 hdc. Rep from * to end of row. Turn.

60th row: With B, ch 2. *1 hdc in each of next 3 sts. 2 hdc in next st. 1 hdc in each of next 3 sts. 2 hdc in next st) 3 times. 1 hdc in each of last 4 sts. 217 sts.

61st to 84th rows: As 21st to 44th rows. Join C. Turn.

85th row: With C, ch 1. 1 sc in each of next 5 sts. *Sc2tog. I sc in each of next 3 sts. Sc2tog. 1 sc in each of next 2 sts. Rep from * to last 5 sts. Sc2tog. 1 sc in each of last 3 sts. Turn. 170 sts. Rep 2nd to 85th rows for pat once more, then 2nd to 56th rows once more. Fasten off.

Chapter 4 - Pop Culture

Gryffindor Scarf

Materials:

Yarn – 4 ounces of main colour (scarlet), 2 ounces or more of contrasting colour (golden yellow)

Hook – Crochet hook size I US size

Directions:

With main color and crochet hook I, chain 30.

Beginning row: hdc in second chain from hook and in each chain for a total of 29 hdc stitches. Turn.

Row 1: Chain 2, count chain 2 as first hdc, hdc in each stitch across, for 29 stitches, turn.

Row 2: 21 repeat row 1.

Row 22: Repeat row 1, but change colors in last hdc. To change, make your hdc in the old color on the last stitch, then pull the new color through the three loops on the hook to complete that hdc of half double crochet.

Row 23-24: Repeat row 1 with contrasting color, on Row 24 last hdc change colors to main color.

Row 25-27: Repeat row 1 with main color, on row 27 last hdc, change colors to contrasting color.

Row 28-29: Repeat row 1 with contrasting color, on Row 29 last hdc. Change colors to main color.

Keep repeating Rows 1-29 as much as you need to, until it reaches about 56 inches, then finish with Row 1-22.

Finishing: Weave the ends. If desired, add fringe.

Princess Anna Hat

Materials:

Yarn – 4 medium weight/worsted weight yarn in the following colours: raspberry, hot rose, terracotta, and ivory.

Hook – Crochet hook size J US size

Measurements – 20”-21” head circumference, stretch fit for children

Chain 2 counts as 1 dc

Directions:

Magic ring, ch 2, 11 dc into a magic ring, sl st into top of ch 2 (12)

Round 2: Ch 2, dc into base of chain, 2 dc in all stitches, sl st into top of ch 2. (24)

Round 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in the next stitch, *dc, 2 dc * repeat around, sl st into top of ch 2 (36)

Round 4: Ch 2, dc into the first stitch, 2 dc into the next stitch, * dc, dc, 2 dc * repeat around sl st into top of ch 2 (48)

Round 5-10: Ch 2, dc into each stitch, sl st into top of ch 2.

Round 11: (colour change) ch 1, sc into each stitch, sl st into top of ch 1.

For hair, hair is cut into strands twice as long, then folded in half to place into the hat. For Anna’s hair, 2 feet long strands will make about one-foot braids.

To attach strands to the hat, take 2 strands, then finding the middle, fold in half.

Use a crochet hook to slip the hook into the bottom stitch from the bottom of the hat toward the top.

Hook the middle of the hair pieces and pull a couple of inches through.

Pass the long end of the strands through the loop and pull tight. Repeat around.

Divide hair in half and create two braids. Secure braids with hair ties or tightly knotted yarn.

Pikachu Plushie

Materials:

Yarn – 4 oz WW yarn in yellow, 1 oz. WW yarn in black, small amount of WW brown yarn, small bits of red felt or red yarn for cheeks, 2 black eyes or black buttons, fibrefill stuffing, yarn needle

Hook – Crochet hook size F US size

Notes:

Number in () at the end of each rnd indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round.

When working dec stitch, it is helpful to use the invisible decrease by working the decrease in the form loops only.

Directions:

HEAD AND BODY (Using yellow)

Rnd 1: Using magic ring 8 sc in ring (8)

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

Rnd 3: sc in sc, 2 sc in next around (24)

Rnd 4: sc in each c around (24)

Rnd 5: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (32)

Rnd 6: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (40)

Rnd 7-13: sc in each sc around (40)

Rnd 14: sc in next 6 sc, dec over next 2 sc. Sc in next 6 sc, dec around (35)

Rnd 15: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc. Around (30)

Rnd 16: sc next 5 sc, 2 sc next sc around (42)

Rnd 18: sc in each sc around (42)

Rnd 19: sc in next 13 sc 2 sc in next sc (45)

Rnd 20: sc in each around (45)

Rnd 21: sc in next 14 sc, 2 sc in next sc (48)

Rnd 22: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 23: sc in next 11 sc, sc in next sc (52)

Rnd 27: sc in next 11 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (48)

Rnd 28: sc in each sc around (48)

Rnd 29: sc in next 6 sc dec over next to sc around (42)

Rnd 30: sc in each sc around (42)

You may begin stuffing at this point. Stud the head and body moderately firm.

Rnd 31: sc in next 5 ch, dec over next 2 sc around (36)

Rnd 32: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)

Rnd 33: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)

Rnd 34: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Rnd 35: dec over next 2 sc around (9)

F/O and using your yarn needle, add a bit of stuffing to push the filling to the bottom and weave yarn through the very last round. Pull tight and close off, weave in ends.

ARMS (make 2)

Using yellow, Rnd 1: Use magic ring, 6 sc in ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in each sc around (6)

Rnd 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next c around (9)

Rnd 4-6: sc in each sc around (9)

Rnd 7: sc in next 5 sc, leaving remaining 4 sc unworked, turn. Sk first sc, sc next sc, dec over last 2 sc, for a total of 3 sc.

FEET (make 2)

Using yellow, Rnd 1: using magic ring, 6 sc in ring (6)

Rnd 2: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc around (9)

Rnd 3: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (12)

Rnd 4-15: sc in each sc around 912)

Rnd 6: c in 2 sc, dec over next 2 around (9)

Rnd 7: flatten out the foot and sc together to close the foot. This is not stuffed.

EARS (make 2)

Using black: Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)

Rnd 2: sc in fist 3 sc, 2 sc in last (5)

Rnd 3: sc in first 4 sc, 2 sc in last (6)

Rnd 4: sc in first 5 sc, 2 sc in last sc, change to yellow at joining stitch 97)

Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (7)

Rnd 6: sc in first 6 sc, 2 sc in last (8)

Rnd 7: sc in first 7 sc, 2 sc in last (9)

Rnd 8: sc in first 8 sc, 2 sc in last (10)

Rnd 9: sc in fist 3 sc, dc in next 4 sc, sc in last 3 sc (10 sts)

TAIL (make 2)

Using yellow, Row 1: Chain 11. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch. (10)

Row 2-3: Sc in each sc across (10)

Row 4: sc in each sc across, ch 6 (10 sc and 6 ch)

Row 5: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of remaining chs. Sc in first 5 sc of row 4 (leave remaining 5 sc unworked) (total of 10 sc)

Row 6-7: sc in each sc across (10_

Row 8: repeat row 4

Row 9: repeat row 5

Row 10-14: sc in each sc across (10)

Row 15: sc in first 3 sc, hdc in next 3 sc, dc in last 4 sc. (10) F/O

Sew the 2 tail pieces together by whip stitching or using sc even around the edges.

Using brown: Row 1: Ch 7. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. Turn.

Row 2: sk first sc, sc in each remaining sc (6)

Row 3: repeat row 2 (5)

Row 4: repeat row 2 (4)

Row 5: repeat row 2 (3)

Row 6: repeat row 2 (2)

F/O

Stripes on black

Using brown. Bottom stripe, Row 1: Ch 15 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (14)

Row 2: sc in first 2 sc, hdc in 2 sc, dc in next 6 sc, hdc in next 2 sc, sc in last 2 sc (14). F/O

Top stripe, Row 1: Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across (10)

Row 2: sc in first 2 sc, hdc in next 2 sc, dc in next 2 sc, hdc in next 2 sc, sc in last 2 sc (10). F/O

CONSTRUCTION:

Stuff arms and sew to the body.

Stuff ears and sew to the head using slight slant of the final row to give a backwards tilt.

Sew feet to the bottom. Sew two stripes to the back.

Sew tail to the bottom of the backside below the bottom stripe at an angle.

Sew small brown triangle over the bottom of the tail.

Sew buttons onto the face, black for nose using whip stitches.

Sew felt circles to cheeks.

Using small backstitches, add mouth.

Chapter 5 – For Our Little Superhero

Avengers: Ironman Hat

Materials:

Yarn – 4 medium weight/worsted weight yarn in the following colours: red and mustard

Hook – Crochet hook size 5.5mm

Measurements – 20”-21” head circumference, stretch fit for children

Stitches used – magic circle, ch, sl st, sc, hdc, dc, rep, st, rnd

Directions:

BODY

With red, make a magic circle, ch 1

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, join (8 hdc)

Rnd 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in each st around, join (16 hdc)

Rnd 3: ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st, rep from * around, join (24 hdc)

Rnd 4: ch 1, *2 hdc in next sc, hdc in next 2 st, rep from * around, join (32 hdc)

Rnd 6: ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 4 st, rep from * around, join (48 hdc)

Rnd 7: ch 1< *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 5 st, rep from * around, join (56 hdc)

Rnd 8: ch 1, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 13 st, rep from * around, join (60 hdc)

Rnd 9-18: ch 1, hdc in each st around, join (60 hdc)

Change to mustard. Rnd 19: ch 2, turn, hdc in next 2 st, change to red, hdc in next 37 st, change to mustard, hdc in next 2 st, ch 2, turn (41 hdc)

Rnd 20: hdc in next 2 st, change to red, hdc in next 37 st, change to mustard, hdc in next 2 st, ch 8, sk8 st from rnd 18, dc in 3 st, ch 8, sl st to first st.

Rnd 21: ch 2, dc in next 2 st, change to red, hdc in next 37 st, change to mustard, dc in next 23 st, join, tie off.

Sew in loose ends.

MASK

With mustard ch 25. Row 1: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook, and in each ch until end, ch 2, turn (23 hdc)

Row 2-3: hdc in each st across, ch 2, turn (23 hdc)

Row 4a-10a: hdc in next 8 st, ch 2, turn, tie off after row 10a (8 hdc)

Count 7 st across row 3 from last st of row 4 and attach yarn with a sl st, ch 2

Row 4b-10b: hdc in next 8 st, ch 2, turn, tie off after row 10b (8 hdc)

Sew in loose ends

ASSEMBLY

Place mask on front of hat

Stitch mask to hat.

Justice League: Super Man and Wonder Woman Finger Puppets

Materials:

Yarn – 4 medium weight/worsted weight yarn in the following colours: black, yellow, red, blue, white and yellow sheet of foam, black beads for eyes, hot glue gun

Hook – Crochet hook size 3mm

Gauge – 24.0 to 30.0 sts = 4 inches

Directions:

Base: black yarn

R1: 6 sc in Magic ring (6)

R2: increase around 912)

R3: * sc, inc * x6 (18)

R4: sc around (18) FO black

Change to beige. R5 – R6: sc around (18)

R7: * sc, dec * X6 (12 FO beige yarn

R8: sc around (12)

R9: *sc 5, ince * X2 (14)

Change to red yarn. R10-R13: sc around (14) FO

Hair: black yarn and work in lines

R1: 14 ch (14)

Rw: sc 13 starting from 2-nd ch (13)

R3: ince, sc 11, inc (15)

R5: sc 17 (17)

R6: sc 17 (17)

R7: 2 ch, ss, * dc 2, ss * until the end of round FO.

Sew two black beads as eyes and hair. Glue headband and wonder woman cut logo from foam.

Superman Pattern:

Directions:

Base: beige yarn

R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

R2: increase around (12)

R3: * sc, inc * X6 (18)

R4-R6: sc around 918)

R7: * sc, dec * X6 (12) FO beige yarn

Change to blue yarn

R*: * sc 5, inc * X2 (14)

R9: sc around (14)

R10-R13: sc around (14) FO

Hair: black hair

R1: 7 sc in MR (7)

R2: in around (14)

R3: * sc, inc * X7 (21)

R4: sc around (21) FO

Sew hair to the head, a bit on the back. With the same black yarn, make a few loose hairs.

Batman Crochet Hat

Materials:

Yarn – 4 medium weight/worsted weight yarn in the following colour: red heart black

Hook – Crochet hook size I

Stitches used – sl, ch, sc, dc, sc2tog

Directions:

Base: Ch 3

Rnd 1: 8 sc in 1st ch made, sl to 1st sc made, ch 1, turn

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sp around, sl to 1st sc made, ch 1, turn (16)

Rnd 3: *sc, 2 sc in next sp, rep from * around, sl to 1st sc made, ch 1, turn (24)

Rnd 4: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sp, rep from * around sl to 1st sc made, ch 1, turn. (30)

Rnd 5: *4 sc, 2 sc in next p, Rep from * around sl to 1st sc made, ch 1, turn (36)

Rnd 6: sc around, sl to 1st sc made, ch 1, turn

Rnd 7: *8 sc, 2 sc in next sp, rep from * around, sl to first sc made, ch 1, turn.

Rnd 8: *9 sc, 2 sc in next sp, Rep from * around, sl to 1st sc made, ch 1, turn (44)

Rnd 9: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sp, Rep from * around, sl to 1st sc made, ch 1, turn

Rnd 11-23: Sc around, rep from * around, sl to 1st sc made, ch 1, turn

Eye holes rounds: Rnd 24: 23 sc, ch 8, sk 5 sps, 3 sc, ch 8, sk 5 sps, 24 sc, sl to 1st sc made, ch 1, turn

Rnd 25: sc to ch sp, 8 sc in ch 8 sp, 3 sc, 8 sc in ch 8 sp, sc around, sl to 1st sc made, tie off hide string.

Ears part 1 (Make 2) Base: ch 1

Row 16: Sc2tog, 6 sc, sc2tog, ch 1, turn

Row 17: 8 sc, ch 1, turn

Row 18: sc2tog, 4 sc, sc2tog, ch 1, turn

Row 19: 6 sc, ch 1, turn

Row 20: sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog, ch 1, turn

Row 21: 4 sc, ch 1, turn

Row 22: (sc2tog) twice, ch 1, turn

Row 23: sc2tog, tie off hide string.

Ear part 2. Base: Ch 11

Row 1-2: 10 sc, ch 1, turn

Row 3: Rep 16

Row 4: Rep 17

Row 5: Rep 18

Row 6: Rep 19

Row 7: Rep 20

Row 8: Rep 21

Row 9: Rep 22

Row 10: Rep 23

Cut out 2 plastic canvas ears in the shape of ear 1.

Sew the 2 ear motifs together around the edge to make a pocket for the plastic canvas.

Hide all strings and sew ears to each side of the head.

Chapter 6 – Toy Crochet Patterns

Sheep Plushie

Materials:

Yarn – Alize cotton gold yarn (or DMC natura) for legs, ears, muzzle, and tail / yarn art dulce (or Sirdar Smudge yarn) for head and body

Hook – 2mm and 3.5mm crochet hooks

Stitches used – single crochet (sc), slip stitch (sl st), st (stitch), [..] total number of stitches

Tapestry needle, scissors, stuffing

2 felt circles of white colour which is optional and 2 black beads or half beads for eyes

Black embroidery floss

Directions:

Stuff the parts as you go (except the ears)

HEAD

Start with Alize cotton gold, take 2.0mm crochet hook.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next st, inc) repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in the next 2 st, inc) repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in the next 4 st, inc) repeat 6 times [36]

Rnd 7-12: sc in all 36 st.

Rnd 13: (sc in the next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 14: -15: sc in all 30 st.

Rnd 16: (sc in the next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]

Change yarn to Yarn Art Dolce and take 3.5mm crochet hook.

Rnd 17-19: sc in all 24 st.

Rnd 20: (sc in the next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 21: (sc in the next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 22: (dec) repeat 6 times

Fasten off, hide the ends.

EAR (make 2)

With Alize cotton Gold and 2mm crochet hook.

Rnd 1: sc in a magic ring.

Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 3-9: sc in all 12 st.

Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

BODY

With Yarn Art dolce yarn and 3.5mm crochet hook

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next st, inc) repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in the next 2 st, inc) repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in the next 4 st, inc) repeat 6 times [36]

Rnd 7-10: sc in all 36 st.

Rnd 11: (sc in the next 4 st, dec) repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 12: sc in all 30 st.

Rnd 15: (sc in the next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]

Sc in all 18 st.

Rnd 17: (sc in the next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 18: (dec) repeat 6 times

Fasten off, hide the ends.

LEGS (make 2)

With Alize cotton gold and 2mm crochet hook

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring.

Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next st, inc) repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 4-6: sc in all 18 st.

Rnd 7: (dec, sc in the next 7 st) repeat 2 times [16]

Rnd 8: (dec, sc in the next 6 st) repeat 2 times [14]

Rnd 9: (dec, sc in the next 5 st) repeat 2 times [12]

Rnd 10: (dec, sc in the next 4 st) repeat 2 times [10]

Rnd 11: (dec, sc in the next 3 st) repeat 2 times [8]

Rnd 12-27: sc in all 8 st.

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Do not stuff firmly, just a little bit and enough to fill.

ARMS

With Alize cotton gold and 2mm crochet hook

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring.

Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 3-6: sc in all 12 st.

Rnd 7: (dec, sc in the next 4 st) repeat 2 times [10]

Rnd 8: (dec, sc in the next 3 st) repeat 2 times [8]

Rnd 9-22: sc in all 8 st.

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Do not stuff firmly, just a little bit and enough to fill.

TAIL

With Alize cotton gold and 2mm crochet hook.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next 1 st, dec) repeat until the end of the round [6]

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Assemble all the parts, attach the eye, then embroider the muzzle. Your sheep amigurumi is now completed!

Crochet Doll

Materials:

Yarn – Approximately 150g size 4 yarn

Hook – Size 3.75-3.5mm hook

Stitches used –single crochet (sc), single crochet increase (2 sc in each stitch), invisible decrease (inv dec), magic circle

Tapestry needle, scissors, stuffing

10.5mm safety eyes

Yarn for hair and clothes

Stitch marker

Directions:

To do an invisible decrease, put hook through the front loop only of two consecutive stitches (two loops on hook). Yarn over pull through both loops [two loops on hook]. Yarn over pull through two loops.

To make a magic circle, make a loop, leaving a long tail to work with. Insert hook in centre of loop, yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over, pull through to make the first chain (this does not count as a stitch). Continue to crochet over the loop and tail with the number of stitches called for. For example, if you need 5sc, then crochet 5sc inside the ring. Pull the tail to close the circle. Always move your stitch marker to the last stitch in the round. This pattern is worked in continuous round. Lightly stuff as you go.

LEGS (use slipper colour)

Round 1: In a magic circle, sc 6.

Round 2: sc inc in each stitch around. (12)

Round 3: sc in first, sc inc in next. Repeat around. (18)

Round 4-10: sc in each stitch around (18)

Change to skin colour.

Rounds 11-38: sc in each stitch around (18)

Fasten off.

Repeat for the second leg but do not fasten off. Instead, chain 3 and then sc in the next stitch of the other leg. Keep in mind to crochet the tail left over by fastening off. Sc around the entire leg. When you come to the three chains, sc in each chain around the next leg. Sc over the chain back to the other leg. In the last sc on the last chain, place your chain marker. This is your round 39.

Round 40: sc around (2)

If you are making a dress, you can change the yarn to match the dress colour of your choice at this point.

Round 41-60: sc around (42)

At this point, change back to skin colour. Crochet in the back loop only for the first row of skin colour. While this is optional, it is a good consideration because it provides cleaner lines.

Round 61: 4 sc, inv dec, repeat around. (35)

Round 62: 3 sc, inv dec, repeat around. (28)

Round 63: 2 sc, inv dec, repeat around. (21)

Round 64: 1 sc, inv dec, repeat around. (14)

Round 65: 4 sc, sc in each stitch around. (14)

Inc dec until you have 12 stitches on the round. From this point, you will be increasing the head. Reset the number on the rounds. Round 66 of the body is now round 1 of the head. This way, it will be easy to check for eye/mask placement and overall general counting.

HEAD

Round 1: sc in first, sc inc in next. Repeat around. (18)

Round 2: sc in first 2, sc inc in next. Repeat around. (24)

Round 3: sc in first 3, sc inc in next. Repeat around. (30)

Round 4: sc in first 4, sc inc in next. Repeat around. (36)

Round 5: sc in first 5, sc inc in next. Repeat around. (42)

Round 6: sc in first 6, sc inc in next. Repeat around. (48)

Round 7: sc in first 7, sc inc in next. Repeat around. (54)

Round 8-23: sc in each stitch around. (54)

Put the safety eyes in between rows 15 and 16, about 9 stitches apart. Make sure they fit well by lining up your mask. Sew the eyelashes at this point. This is also a good time to place the foam roller or dowel if you are using one. Make sure tot stuff the neck around the dowel as well as you can.

Round 24: sc in first 7, inv dec in next. Repeat around. (48)

Round 25: sc in first 6, inv dec in next. Repeat around. (42)

Round 26: sc in first 5, inv dec in next. Repeat around. (36)

Round 27: sc in first 4, inv dec in next. Repeat around. (30)

Round 28: sc in first 3, inv dec in next. Repeat around. (24)

Round 29: sc in first 2, inv dec in next. Repeat around. (18)

Round 30: sc in the first, inv dec in next. Repeat around. (12)

Round 30: inv dec around. (6)

Fasten off and carefully sew the remaining hole closed. Leave a long tail to make a nose.

ARMS

Round 1: In a magic circle, sc 6. (6)

Round 2: inc in each around. (12)

Rounds 3-28: sc in each stitch around. (12)

Stuff lightly and attach to body. Sew these on between rows 62 and 63.

If you will be adding sleeves, only go to row 23 with the skin colour. Change to the dress colour and finish the 5 remaining rows.

HAIR

First, make the hair hat. This is not worked into the round, as you will attach this with a slip stitch to the first stitch after each row. Use a larger hook such as 4.5mm size hook.

Row 1: dc 10 in a magic circle.

Row 2: dc inc in each around.

Row 3: dc in the first, dc inc in the next. Repeat around.

Row 4: dc in the first 2, dc in the next. Repeat around.

Row 5-8: dc in each around.

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing into the head.

Amigurumi Spiderman Toy

Materials:

Yarn – Any worsted weight yarn, 5-ply red and blue yarn

Hook – Size 2.5 mm hook

Stitches used –single crochet (sc), st (stitch), increase, inc (two sc in one stitch), decrease, dec (two st together), repeat the space in brackets given the number of times (..), total number of stitches [..]

Tapestry needle, scissors

Black thread

Some white felt

Fiberfill

One black half bead

Wooden beads (may be optional): 2 small ones for the arms, 2 bigger arms for the legs, and a wooden stick

Directions:

FOR THE ASSEMBLY:

Sew on the forelegs at Rnds 3-4 of the body.

Sew on the hind legs at Rnd 12-14 of the body.

Sew on the horn at Rnds 21-25 of the head.

Sew on the ears at Rnds 24-27 of the head at 5 st in between them.

Sew on the mane right in the middle of the head beginning from the horn and ending on the nape.

The tail ringlets are sewn into rows between Rnd 14 and Rnd 16 of the body.

ARMS (to make 2 pieces):

Crochet with the red yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnd 2: (inc) then repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 3-4: without changes [12]

Insert a wooden bead and continue crocheting.

Rnd 5: (dec) repeat 6 times [6]

Rnd 6-20: sc in the all 6 st [6]

Fasten off then crochet the second arm in the same way.

LEGS (make 2 pieces)

Crochet with the red yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring.

Rnd 2: (inc) then repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next st, inc) then repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 4-5: without changes [18]

Insert a wooden bead and then continue crocheting.

Rnd 6: (sc in the next st, dec) then repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 7: (dec) then repeat 6 times [6]

At this point, change to color blue.

Rnd 8-25: sc in all 6 st [6]

To fasten off: Crochet in the second leg in the same way. You can make the arms and legs much shorter of longer as you prefer or need.

HEAD-BODY (1 part):

Start with the red color yarn then stuff as you go. Take care not to overfill or overstuff.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next st, inc) then repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in the next st, inc) then repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in the next 4 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in the next 5 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [42]

Rnd 8-14: without changes [42]

Rnd 15: (sc in the next 5 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [36]

Rnd 16: (sc in the next 4 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 17: (sc in the next 3 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 18: (sc in the next 2 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [18]

At this point, insert a wooden stick in the next opening.

Rnd 19: (sc in the next st, dec) then repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 20: (dec) then repeat 6 times [6]

Rnd 21-122: sc in all 6 st [6]

Rnd 23: (inc) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 24: sc in the next st, inc, then attach the arms in this round, then crochet as follows through the loops of the body and two layers of arm – sc in the next st, inc, sc in the next st; further crochet along the body – inc, sc in the next st, inc; then attach the second arm in the same manner – sc in next st, inc, sc in the next st; inc [18]

Rnd 25: (sc in the next 2 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 26-30: without changes [24]

At this point, change to blue color.

Rnd 31-34: without changes [24]

Rnd 35: attach the legs in the same manner as the arms (3 stitches in between the legs) – sc in all st [24]

Rnd 36: sc in the next 24 st. Stuff and sew the opening.

Embroider a net on the head. Then embroider the edges of felt eyes with blanket stitches and glue eyes to the face.

Next, embroider spider legs on the chest with the use of a black thread and glue a half-bead in the center. Now your Spiderman amigurumi toy is finished and ready to be played with!

Ballerina Cat Doll

Materials:

Yarn – Yarn art Jeans (55% cotton, 45% acrylic; 160 m / 50 g) in dark beige, lavender, and pink colours

Hook – Size 2.0 mm hook

Stitches used – chain (ch), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (sl st), st (stitch), half double crochet (hdc), increase, inc (2 sc in one st), decrease, dec (2 sc together), BLO (crochet in back loops only), repeat the space in brackets the given number of times (..), total number of stitches [..]

Sewing needle, scissors

12 mm safety eyes

Some veiling fabric for skirt

Fiberfill

The crochet doll is about 30 cm (11.8”) tall with ears.

Directions:

HEAD AND BODY:

Star crocheting the head with the dark beige yarn. Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: inc 6 times [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next st, inc) then repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 4: (sc in the next 2 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in the next 2 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 5: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 6: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [36]

Rnd 7: (sc in the next 5 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [42]

Rnd 8: (sc in the next 6 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [48]

Rnd 9: (sc in the next 7 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [54]

Rnd 10-16: sc in all 54 st [54]

Rnd 17: (sc in next 8 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [60]

Rnd 18-20: sc in all 60 st [60]

At this point, insert the safety eyes in between Rnd 15 and Rnd 16 (about 7 st from each other)

Rnd 21: (sc in the next 8 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [54]

Rnd 22: (sc in the next 7 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [48]

Rnd 23: sc in all 48 st [48]

Rnd 24: (sc in the next 6 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [42]

Rnd 25: (sc in the next5 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [36]

Rnd 26: 9sc in the next 4 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 27: (sc in the next 3 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 28-29: sc in the next 23 st, sl st in the next st [24]

Rnd 31: crochet this round in back loops only, then change color to the lavender one and continue as follows:

BLO sc in all 24 st [24]

Rnd 32: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 33: (sc in the next 4 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [36]

Rnd 34: sc in all 36 st [36]

Rnd 35: (sc in the next 5 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [42]

Rnd 36-39: sc in all 42 st [42]

Rnd 40: (sc in next 6 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [54]

Rnd 44: sc in all 54 st [54]

Rnd 45: sc in the net 53 sl st, sl st in the next st [54]

Rnd 46: BLO sc in the next 54 st [54]

Rnd 47: (sc in the next 7 st, de) then repeat 6 times [48]

Rnd 48: (sc in the next 6 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [42]

Rnd 49: sc in all 42 st [42]

Rnd 50: (sc in the next 5 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [36]

Rnd 51: (sc in the next 4 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [30]

Rnd 52: (sc in the next 3 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 53: (sc in the next 3 st, dec0 then repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 54: 9sc in the next st, dec) then repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 55: dec 6 times [6]

At this point, close the hole. Fasten off and then hide the yarn end.

EARS (make 2 pieces)

Crochet with a dark beige yarn,

Rnd 1: 4 sc in a magic ring [4]

Rnd 2: (inc) repeat 4 times [8]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next st, inc) then repeat 4 times [12]

Rnd 4: 9sc in the next 5 st, inc) then repeat 2 times [14]

Rnd 5: (sc in the next 6 st, inc) then repeat 2 times [16]

Rnd 6: (sc in the next 7 st, inc) then repeat 2 time [20]

Rnd 8: (sc in the next 9 st, inc) then repeat 2 times [22]

At this point, fasten off leaving a tail for sewing. Take extra care not to overstuff or overfill.

CHEEKS (to make 2 pieces):

12 hdc in a magic ring, then join with sl st.

At this point, fasten off then leaving a tail for sewing.

ARMS (to make 2 pieces):

Start with the dark beige yarn then stuff only the bottom part of the arms.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: inc 6 times [12]

Rnd 3: (sc in the next st inc) then repeat 6 time [18]

Rnd 4: sc in all 18 st [18]

Rnd 5: (sc in the next 2 st, inc) then repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 6: sc in all 24 st [24]

Rnd 7: (sc in the next 2 st, dec) then repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 8: sc in all 18 st [18]

Rnd 9: sc in the next 6 st, (dec, sc in the next st), then repeat 4 times [14]

Rnd 10-17: sc in all 14 st [14]

Rnd 18: sc in the next 13 st, sl st in the next st [14]

Rnd 19: crochet this round in back loops only, change color to the lavender one and continue as follows:

BLO sc in all 14 t [14]

Rnd 20-23: sc in all 14 st [14]

Crochet sc in the next 2 st, then flatten the upper part of the arms and crochet sc in the next 6 st through both layers. Fasten of, leaving a tail for sewing.

LEGS (to make 2 pcs):

Crochet with the lavender yarn.

6 ch.

Make an oval starting from the second ch from the hook, work on both side of the chain:

Round 1: sc in the next 4 ch, 3 sc in last st, turn, sc in the next 3 st, inc [12]

Round 2: inc, sc in the next 3 st, inc 3 times, sc in the next 3 st, inc 2 times [18]

Round 3: inc, sc in the next 5 st, inc, sc in the next 2 st, inc, sc in the next 5 st, inc, sc in the next 2 st [22]

Round 4: inc 2 times, sc in the next 5 st, inc 2 times, sc in the next 2 st, inc 2 times, sc in the next 5 st, inc 2 times, sc in the next 2 st [30]

Round 5: BLO sc in all 30 st [30]

Round 6-8: sc in all 30 st [30]

Round 9: sc in the next 9 st, (dec, sc in the next st) then repeat 4 times, sc in the next 9 st [26]

Round 10: sc in the next 7 st, (dec, sc in the next st) then repeat 4 times, sc in the next 7 st [22]

Change to dark beige yarn.

Round 11: sc in all 22 st [22]

Round 12: sc in the next 8 st, (dec, sc in the next st) then repeat 2 times, sc in the next 8 st [20]

Round 13: sc in the next 8 st, dec 2 times, sc in the next 8 st [18]

Round 14: sc in all 18 st [18]

Round 15: (sc in the next 4 st, dec) then repeat 3 times [15]

Round 16-32: sc in all 15 st [15]

Flatten the upper part of the leg and then crochet sc into the next 7 st through both of the layers. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

COLLAR:

Row 1: 31 ch

Row 2: start from the second ch from the hook: (sc in the next 3 st, inc) then repeat 7 times, sc in the next 2 st [37]

Row 3: 1 turning ch, (sl st in the next st, hdc in the next st, dc in the next st, hdc in the next st) then repeat 9 times, sl st in next st [37]

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

CUFF:

Row 1: 18 ch

Row 2: Start from the second ch from the hook: (sc in next 3 st, inc) then repeat 4 times, sc in the next st [21]

Row 3: turning ch, (sl st in the next st, hdc in the next st, dc in the next st, hdc in the next st) then repeat 5 times, sl st in nest st [21]

Fasten off tail leaving a tail for sewing.

SKIRT:

Make a belt at the waist using the front loops that are left after Rnd 45 of the body.

Rnd 1: Attach the yarn at the side of the body and crochet sc in the next 54 st in front loops of Rnd 45 [54]

Rnd 2: (sc in the next 7 st, inc), then repeat 6 times, sc in the next 6 st [60]

Join with sl st, fasten off, and hide the end.

Take some veiling fabric for the skirt and then put it on your cat doll, gathering at the waist to determine the size of the skirt. Gather the skirt at the waist with the help of a sewing needle and sew it right underneath the belt.

ASSEMBLY:

Sew cheeks on the muzzle at between Rnd 17 and Rnd 22 of the head (this is about 11 st from each other)

Make the ears slightly round-shaped and pin them on the top of the head in between Rnd 3 and Rnd 11, then sew them on.

Embroider a nose and eyelashes.

Pin the collar around the neck and the cuffs around the sleeves then sew them on.

Sew arms to the body right under the collar.

Sew legs to the bottom of the body.

Insert two strands of yarn at the sides of the shoes and then tie them like ballet shoes.

Easter Bunny Eggs

Materials:

Yarn – Any light worsted weight (DK) yarn – Gazzal XL Baby Cotton (50% cotton, 50% acrylic; 105m/50g) in your desired colours

Hook – Size 3.0mm hook

Stitches used – chain (ch), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (sl st), st (stitch), double crochet (dc), increase, inc (2 sc in one stitch), decrease, dec (2 sc together), dc increase, dc-inc (2 dc in one stitch), repeat the space in the brackets the given number of times (..), total number of stitches [..]

Tapestry needle, scissors

Fiberfill, 6 mm safety eyes or beads

The size of the amigurumi egg is about 5.5-6cm (2”-2.3”) without ears – like the size of a real egg.

Directions:

EGG

Crochet in continuous rounds using a stitch marker.

Round 1: 7 sc in magic ring [7]

Round 2: (inc) repeat 7 times [14]

Round 3: (sc in next 2 st, inc) repeat 4 times, sc in next 2 st [18]

Round 4: 9sc in next 5 st, inc) repeat 3 times [21]

Round 5: (sc in next 6 st, inc) repeat 3 times [24]

Round 6: (sc in next 5 st, inc) repeat 4 times [28]

Round 7: (sc in next 6 st, inc) repeat 4 times [32]

Round 8: (sc in next 15 st, inc) repeat 2 times [34]

Round 9-14: sc in all 34 st [34]

Insert safety eyes between Rnd 7 and Rnd 8 (about 5 st between the eyes).

Round 15: (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat 3 times, sc in next 5 st, dec [30]

Round 16: sc in all 30 st [30]

Round 17: (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 5 times [25]

Round 18: (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 5 times [20]

Round 19: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 5 times [25]

Stuff firmly.

Round 20: sc in next st, dec x 7 times [8]

Dec 2 times, cut off the yarn, leaving a small tail. Pass the yarn end through the front loops of the rest 6 stitches with your hook or sewing needle and pull to close the hole. Fasten off and weave in the end.

EARS (make 2):

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring [6]

Rnd 2: (sc in next st, inc) repeat 3 time [9]

Rnd 3: sc in all 9 st [9]

Rnd 4: (sc in next 2 st, inc) repeat 3 times [12]

Rnd 5-6: sc in all 12 st [12]

Rnd 7: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 4 times [8]

Rnd 8-9: sc in all 8 st [8]

Finish with sl st. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew ears to the top of the egg at the level of Rnds 2-3. Embroider a nose and tint cheeks with powder rouge.

FLOWER EGG COZY:

Begin crocheting the flower.

Rnd 1: 3 ch, 12 dc in 3rd ch from hook, join with sl st [13]

Rnd 2: (dc-inc) repeat 13 times, join with sl st [26]

Rnd 3: 1 ch, (sc in next st, inc) repeat 13 times, sl st in next st [40]

Rnd 4: sc in next 40 st in back loops only [40]

Rnd 5: 1 ch, (dc in next 3 st, 5 ch, dc in the same st where you made the previous dc, dc in next 2 st, 1 ch), repeat 8 times, join with sl st. Now you have 8 arches.

Rnd 6: (12 dc in arch, sc under the chain between dc stitches) repeat 8 times. Finish the round with sl st changing the yarn color.

Rnd 7: sc in each st until the end. Fasten off and weave in end.

To make a cozy, attach the yarn of the main color to one of the front loops of Rnd 3 of the flower. Keep up crocheting in continuous rounds.

Rnd 1-4: sc in all 40 st [40]

Rnd 5: sl in all 40 st [40]

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Dear Reader,

Thanks for exploring this book with me. Now that you know some beautiful crochet projects for your kids …

… why not take one step further and learn how to develop their emotional intelligence?

You’ll love the other book, because providing the best for our children is definitely worth it.

Get it now.

Thanks,

Freya

P.S. Reviews are like giving a warm hug to your favourite author.

We love hugs.

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Author Biography

Freya Gates is a teacher with a decade of experience…

… working with children with special needs.

She currently lives in Florida ... and is the successful author of Developing Emotional Intelligence for Kids in 5 Steps.

She is currently blessed with having a personal project of her own named Logan who is seven months old and counting.

Check Out Other Books

Developing Emotional Intelligence for Kids in 5 Steps:

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