(2 Book Bundle) "Crochet Beginners Guide" & "Crochet Stitches Beginners Guide"
Author: Nelson, Emily
Date: 2014-09-25T04:00:00+00:00
Publisher: Crochet Press

Table of Contents

Book 1: Crochet Beginners Guide

Preface

Chapter 1: What is Crochet?

Chapter 2: What Things Do I Need?

Crochet hooks

Yarn

Other Items You May Need

Pompom Makers

Stitch Counters

Storage/Work Box

Chapter 3: Understanding Patterns

Reading A Crochet Pattern

Tips & Tricks of Reading Patterns

Chapter 4: Crochet Basics

Holding the Crochet hook

Holding the Yarn

Creating the Starting Knot

Chapter 5: Crocheting Basic Stitches

Where To Put The Crochet Hook

How To Chain

How To Do A Single Crochet

How To Turn Your Work

How To Slip Stitch

How To Do A Double Crochet

Chapter 6: Crocheting Techniques

Increasing

Decreasing

Working in different loops

Chapter 7: Beginners Crochet Patterns

Cell Phone Sock

Pot Holders

Basic Granny Square

Book 2: Crochet Stitches Beginners Guide

Preface

Chapter 1: Basic Stitches

Single Crochet

Slip Stitch

Double Crochet

Chapter 2: Advanced Stitches

Half Double Crochet

Treble Crochet

Front post double crochet

Back post double crochet

Chapter 3: Textured Stitches

Front loop crochet

Back loop crochet

Moss stitch

Basket Stitch

X Stitch

Chapter 4: Lace And Open Work Stitches

Chain Lace

Solomon’s Knot

V-Stitch

Chapter 5: Mesh Stitches

Small Mesh Ground

Large Mesh Ground

Diamond Mesh Stitch

Chapter 6: Cluster Stitches

Puff Stitch

Bullion Stitch

Raspberry Stitch

Chapter 7: Fan And Shell Stitches

Basic Shell Stitch

Basic Fan stitch

Arcade Stitch

Chapter 8: Trims & Edging

Picot Edging

Reverse double crochet edging

Shell edging

Chapter 9: Special Stitches

Loop stitch

Chevron Stitch

Broomstick Lace

Chapter 10: Conversion Charts

Hook Conversion Chart

Stitch Abbreviations

(2 Book Bundle) "Crochet Beginners Guide" "Crochet Stitches Beginners Guide"

Emily Nelson

Crochet Press (2014)

2 Book Bundle

“Crochet Beginners Guide”

&

“Crochet Stitches Beginners Guide”

Copyright © 2013 by Emily Nelson

All rights reserved.

This publication is protected under the copyright laws of the United States of America. No part of this work may be used, reproduced, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, and faxing, or by any information storage and retrieval system by anyone but the purchaser for their own personal use.

This book may not be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of Emily Nelson, except in the case of a reviewer who wishes to quote brief passages for the sake of a review written for inclusions in a magazine, newspaper, or journal—and these cases require written permission from Emily Nelson prior to publication. Any reproduction or other unauthorized use of the material or artwork herein is prohibited without the express written permission of the author.

Although the author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information in this publication was correct at press time, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.

OTHER BOOKS BY THIS AUTHOR

Please visit http://goo.gl/8DO96i to discover other books by Emily Nelson.

“Crochet Patterns Beginners Guide”

“Crochet Stitches Beginners Guide”

“Crochet Beginners Guide”

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Book 1: Crochet Beginners Guide

Preface

Chapter 1: What is Crochet?

Chapter 2: What Things Do I Need?

Crochet hooks

Yarn

Other Items You May Need

Pompom Makers

Stitch Counters

Storage/Work Box

Chapter 3: Understanding Patterns

Reading A Crochet Pattern

Tips & Tricks of Reading Patterns

Chapter 4: Crochet Basics

Holding the Crochet hook

Holding the Yarn

Creating the Starting Knot

Chapter 5: Crocheting Basic Stitches

Where To Put The Crochet Hook

How To Chain

How To Do A Single Crochet

How To Turn Your Work

How To Slip Stitch

How To Do A Double Crochet

Chapter 6: Crocheting Techniques

Increasing

Decreasing

Working in different loops

Chapter 7: Beginners Crochet Patterns

Cell Phone Sock

Pot Holders

Basic Granny Square

Book 2: Crochet Stitches Beginners Guide

Preface

Chapter 1: Basic Stitches

Single Crochet

Slip Stitch

Double Crochet

Chapter 2: Advanced Stitches

Half Double Crochet

Treble Crochet

Front post double crochet

Back post double crochet

Chapter 3: Textured Stitches

Front loop crochet

Back loop crochet

Moss stitch

Basket Stitch

X Stitch

Chapter 4: Lace And Open Work Stitches

Chain Lace

Solomon’s Knot

V-Stitch

Chapter 5: Mesh Stitches

Small Mesh Ground

Large Mesh Ground

Diamond Mesh Stitch

Chapter 6: Cluster Stitches

Puff Stitch

Bullion Stitch

Raspberry Stitch

Chapter 7: Fan And Shell Stitches

Basic Shell Stitch

Basic Fan stitch

Arcade Stitch

Chapter 8: Trims & Edging

Picot Edging

Reverse double crochet edging

Shell edging

Chapter 9: Special Stitches

Loop stitch

Chevron Stitch

Broomstick Lace

Chapter 10: Conversion Charts

Hook Conversion Chart

Stitch Abbreviations

Book 1: Crochet Beginners Guide

By

Emily Nelson

PREFACE

So you’ve opened this book in the hopes of being able to learn how to crochet, well look no further! This handy guide has everything you need to learn the basics of crochet.

The art of crochet has regained its popularity over the past few years after disappearing off the radar. You can now find multiple weekly or monthly crochet pattern magazines on the shelves of most supermarkets as well as numerous blogs and websites all sporting original and unique crochet patterns at the press of a few keys.

You can see examples of crocheted work all over the place as it comes back into fashion as a popular and on trend accessory to any neckline or hems. The ability to crochet opens up an exciting world of possibilities allowing you, with a few instructions, to create whatever you can think of. The amount of things you can create from a simple hook and yarn is limitless with a little time and patience.

People are attracted to crochet due to its easiness and how quick it is to pick up; many actually prefer the art of crochet over knitting because of how simple it is yet what you can create with it can be phenomenal.

Crochet allows a person who has never picked up a hook before in their lives to make something for themselves with a few simple instructions. Crochet projects come together very quickly, and you can see your work grow and take shape in front of your eyes, which encourages a beginner to keep going.

This art form is great for beginners as there is less to go wrong; you are working one simple stitch at a time whereas with knitting you are working, in some case, hundreds of stitches all at once. It can be frustrating if you all of a sudden notice you’ve dropped a stitch four rows back!

This guide is designed to teach you the fundamentals of crochet It will walk you through the crochet basics with visual aids in the form of pictures to help you to pick up that crochet hook and some yarn and to begin creating beautiful projects.

The basic stitches as well as the all-important question of how do you actually hold a crochet hook, will all be answered. You will be shown helpful step by step guides of how to create stitches as well as going over the vital equipment you will need besides the obvious hook and yarn.

This handy guide also contains a few basic beginner-friendly crochet patterns that have been written in an easy to understand manor that will help you create amazing projects that you will be proud of!

So follow along, and you’ll soon be covering everything in your entire house in colorful crochet projects!

CHAPTER 1: WHAT IS CROCHET?

Crochet is a form of craft in which a small hooked needle or rod is used along with yarn to create items or sheets of fabric with different textures and appearance through using different techniques.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CROCHET AND KNITTING?

The main differences between crochet and knitting are the types of stitches and the techniques used. For instance, knitting incorporates using two same size needles at the same time to work the wool and create sheets of fabric at a time. With crochet, you only use a single needle at one time as well as your hands. This also means you only have one active stitch at a time, whereas in knitting you have many active stitches at any one time which can make it easier to accidently drop a stitch without noticing.

Crochet is also remarkably easier to pick up over knitting; crochet has very simple beginner stitches which you can use even in the early stages of learning to create cute and funky little objects. It is a great encouragement for a beginner to see their hard work begin to grow and take shape in front of them.

WHERE DID CROCHET ORIGINATE?

The first conclusive evidence of crochet can be found in the early 19th century when it became increasingly popular in Europe with the first written reference to the craft being recorded in 1797. Although there are early forms of crochet that have been discovered in the United Kingdom known as shepherds crook knitting, this was quickly dismissed by Victorian exponents as two writers by the names of Cornelia Mee and Mlle de la Branchardiere both claim crochet as their invention. While it cannot be proven as there is no supporting evidence, it is believed that crochet has been around a little longer than the 19th century and originated from traditional techniques and practices that can be found in both South America and China.

During the Victorian period, crochet itself was aimed towards the upper classes. This meant anything to do with crochet including even the magazines were very expensive and difficult to get a hold of, this meant only women who were part of a wealthy family could have access to this craft.

It was only in the mid-1870s when the government passed the education act that cheaper equipment and books became available and the number of people who could easily afford such things rose dramatically as it gained in popularity.

Just like with any trend, crochet fashion and craft has gone through periods of being popular to being practically non-existent. After crocheting’s initial rise in popularity, crocheting slowly disappeared like a passing trend and by the early 1920s, was difficult to see. Crocheting gained back its popularity in America in the 1950s. With America pushing the revival of crochet, it rapidly spread around the globe once again.

WHAT HAS CROCHET BEEN USED FOR?

Although crochet can be used for many different things including household furnishings, the most-prominent form of crochet can be found in the glorious world of fashion and design. Some of the earliest patterns for clothing come from the early 90s where it was popular to have crochet trimmings around the collar, wrists and hems of jumpers and coats; this fashion trend has recently popped back up again in modern times.

If you look carefully enough you can find examples of crochet in many types of clothing and household objects, many modern day wedding dresses have incorporated thicker lace patterns that are indeed a form of crochet. Coming into the modern era, the most-prominent form of crochet can be found once again in women’s clothing. In spring and summer you can easily spot women’s dresses sporting a crocheted neckline or have the sleeves and hem of them decorated in intricate crocheted lace panels.

Even today one of the most-popular patterns to create is known as the granny square, this type of pattern goes back to early crochet pattern magazines. Granny squares can be used for a number of things, from making colorful bedspread, blankets, hats, jumpers and table runners. The appeal of the granny square rose after it was discovered how simple it can be to learn. The pattern was easy enough for beginners to pick up without any trouble, but still had its appeal with the more experienced people due to how versatile it was.

CHAPTER 2: WHAT THINGS DO I NEED?

No craft can be completed without a few materials here and there. An artist cannot paint without their paintbrush and canvas, the same way in which you cannot crochet without a few essential pieces of equipment. This section is designed to cover all of the most basic of materials as well as some of the less obvious items you will need to pick up a hook and begin creating your first project!

CROCHET HOOKS

Crochet hooks come in a wide variety of types for you to choose from. The most-common crochet hook is made out of wood, plastic or aluminum; however, you can find older crochet hooks in second-hand shops or online which are made out of ivory, steel or various crystals such as agate.

You can also buy crochet hooks that have handles or grips. The handles are typically made of either wood or plastic, and are usually made around the crochet hook and cannot be bought separately. You can also choose to make your own handles using polymer clay, the purpose of the handle is to provide extra comfort when in use as well as to provide support. The grips are almost always made of rubber; you can buy these grips in craft stores or online which slide right over your existing crochet hook.

When choosing a crochet hook you should go with what feels best to you, some people prefer wood crochet hooks as they have more of a natural grip to them while others find that wood hooks catch too much on the yarn they are working with. It is all about personal preference.

Crochet hooks can be found in a variety of sizes, all of which have a number, letter, or both, indicating the size of the hook. The information is usually found on the wider part of a crochet hook either engraved or printed onto the hook. Please refer to the chart below that includes both number and letter sizing for finding the correct hook.

YARN

Picking the right type of yarn for a project is a very vital step to ensure that your project turns out looking beautiful. There are hundreds of different types of yarn available, and it can be a little daunting to choose one as they all have different uses. This section will help you guide you through the most-common types of yarn and their uses.

When you begin to crochet you may run into an expression called yarn weight, this is simply referring to the thickness of the yarn. Following is a list of the most-common yarn weights and their core uses:

-Super fine yarn, also known as 1-4 ply yarn, this type of yarn is mostly used for socks, baby clothes and very fine lace.

-Fine yarn, also known as 5 ply yarn, commonly used for baby clothes and sportswear.

-Light yarn, also known as double knit (commonly known as DK) or 8 ply yarn, this is the most-common yarn available and is widely used in several types of patterns.

-Medium yarn, also known as worsted, Aran or triple knit yarn, commonly used for blankets, ponchos or thicker clothing such as scarves.

-Bulky yarn, also known as chunky or craft yarn, used for cowls, scarves or for more sturdy craft projects such as rugs.

-Super bulky yarn, also known as roving yarn, can be used for making baskets, bags and chunky clothing such as warm winter hats.

OTHER ITEMS YOU MAY NEED

SCISSORS

Scissors are one of your basic tools you will need, when starting out with crochet, any basic pair of scissors you have laying around the house will work. However, it may be wise to invest in a pair of craft scissors in the future for bigger projects or if you are using thicker yarn.

NEEDLES

If there is one thing you should definitely not forget to get when starting up with crochet is a needle, and not just any needle either! Unless you are working with very fine yarn, a regular needle will not work. The correct type of needle that is required for working with regular yarn is called a tapestry needle, also called a blunt needle.

This type of needle is a normal needle, but very chunky, the eye of the needle is much larger allowing you to fit different varieties of yarn through it; this is a very useful tool as it helps you to weave in loose ends that are left at the end of projects.

POMPOM MAKERS

These funky little tools can add the final touches to a project, plus they make your job quite a bit easier too! Pompom makers as standard have three colorful rings which you can remove or add based on the size of the pompom you are looking to make. You simply wrap your yarn through the center of the tool and around the edges till you cannot fit any more on, tie a knot and cut around the outside edge of the pompom maker to be left with an adorable and fluffy bobble.

STITCH COUNTERS

These handy little things, although typically for knitting, can indeed be used for crochet. They become very useful when working on larger projects; you can simply enter in the number of rows you have completed to keep track of what you have done; this is especially useful if you put your project down to walk away for a while!

STORAGE/WORK BOX

The more equipment you gather, the more your need for somewhere to store them! Any box will do in the beginning just to keep everything in one place. However, the more hooks you will inevitably collect and the more tools you gather, it could be worth your time to invest in a proper storage box with separate compartments or organize everything better. Not only will a storage container keep your work area clean and tidy but also save you from losing too many things! Those pesky tapestry needles disappear very easily, and that is one thing you do not want to find in the middle of the night with bare feet!

CHAPTER 3: UNDERSTANDING PATTERNS

One of the biggest problems many people have when starting to learn how to crochet is the patterns; to a complete beginner these walls of abbreviated text will not mean the slightest thing and can quickly lead to frustration. This section will cover how to understand the basics of crochet patterns and to simplify them as much as possible.

One of the most-common problems is getting what part of the world the particular pattern was written in. This is a significant problem especially between the USA and the UK, because both countries have their own abbreviations and phrases for crochet terminology. Although the difference between the two is slight, it can make or break your projects.

It is vital that you determine what countries terminology your pattern is using. This information can be found in the pattern description on single patterns or website, and can be found in the front of crochet books.

The following chart shows the basic full US crochet terms along with their abbreviations that are used within this guide:

The following chart shows the differences between US and UK terminology:

READING A CROCHET PATTERN

In this section, we will break down a simple crochet pattern piece by piece.

SAMPLE PATTERN:

“Row 1: Row 1: sl st into the 4th ch from the hook, *ch 4, skip 3 ch and sl st into the 4th* repeat to end of row, ch 4 and turn.*ch 4, skip 3 ch and sl st into the 4th* repeat to end of row, ch 4 and turn.”

Looking at the above sentence all together, you are probably scratching your head thinking what on earth that chunk of writing is, but no fear! It can easily be broken down into smaller bits.

Let’s take a look at the first part of this sentence:

“Row 1: sl st into the 4th ch from the hook,”

We know from the conversion charts in this chapter that sl st is an abbreviation of slip stitch; we also know that ch means chain. Altogether this sentence read:

“Row 1: Slip stitch into the 4th chain from the hook”

Writing out patterns without the shortened text can help you grasp the basics of crochet. Take each part of the pattern you are looking at and write it out on a piece of paper. Change all of the abbreviations for their full terms and you can easily decipher any pattern!

Let’s take a look at the second part of that sentence:

“*ch 4, skip 3 ch and sl st into the 4th* repeat to end of row,”

Once again, take out the abbreviations and the sentence reads as follows:

“Chain 4, skip 3 chains and slip stitch into the 4th, repeat to the end of the row”

Doesn’t that look simpler to understand?

Putting everything we know together the entire sentence should read:

“Row 1: Slip stitch into the 4th chain from the hook, *chain 4, skip 3 chains and slip stitch into the 4th,* repeat to the end of the row, chain 4 and turn your work, chain 4, skip 3 chains and slip stitch into the 4th, repeat to the end of the row, chain 4 and turn your work.”

It can be a pain to translate every pattern you work with into sentences, but it is worth it in the long run. Not only does translating make the pattern you are working with easier to understand, but it also teaches you the abbreviations for the most-common crochet terms subconsciously. The more you practice this technique, the less you will need to translate your patterns.

TIPS & TRICKS OF READING PATTERNS

This section is designed to give you a few little things to look out for when you read through a crochet pattern. For beginners, small markings within the text have their own meaning which may not be explained in the pattern description.

WHAT DOES AN ASTERISK MEAN IN A PATTERN?

The asterisk is usually seen in crochet patterns such as the following:

*ch 4, skip 3 ch and sl st into the 4th*

The * on either end of a block of text is an indication that those instructions need to be repeated once again or multiple times, this information is usually given to you in the crochet pattern itself. You may see the text say:

“Repeat from *to* 4 times”

This instruction is telling you to repeat what is in between those two marks, four more times.

HOW TO TELL HOW MANY STITCHES PER ROW A PATTERN WANTS YOU TO DO

Any well-written crochet pattern usually has an indication somewhere in the pattern description or in the actual pattern itself how many stitches per row a pattern requires.

You will typically find this information in a pattern like this:

“…… join with a sl st and ch 2 (24)”

The brackets with a number in at the end of a row like the one above has the number of stitches that row should have.

As seen above the brackets have the number 24 in them, this tells you that there should be 24 stitches in the row you have just completed.

WHAT DOES FINISHING OFF MEAN?

At the end of a pattern or section it may ask you to finish off. This simply means that the pattern wants you to cut the yarn and knot it so your work does not unravel. To knot your yarn, simply cut the yarn that is connected to the ball leaving 4-6 inches. Now with the loop you still have on your crochet hook, pull it through that loop, this creates a slip knot that will tighten once you pull on the tail of yarn you have left. At this point, you are free to sew the ends in using a tapestry needle.

CHAPTER 4: CROCHET BASICS

This chapter is going to focus on the absolute basics of crochet. This section will cover how to hold the crochet hook (yes there are different ways!), how to hold the yarn, how to hold both the yarn and the hook at the same time and how to put yarn on the crochet hook.

HOLDING THE CROCHET HOOK

Now, you must be thinking that this step does not sound too hard right? Well, it is not as long as you are comfortable with how you are holding the hook and can crochet with no discomfort and trouble. There is no set right or wrong way to hold a crochet hook and everyone has their own technique, below is a demonstration of the two most common and popular ways to hold a crochet hook.

The first technique is holding the hook in the same way you would hold a knife; this method is suitable for working at a reasonable speed; it also gives you a good amount of control as you control the hooks movement with your index finger and thumb:

The second technique is holding the hook in a similar fashion to holding a pen or pencil, this method is useful for working on little details and at a slow speed. However, this process can become quite painful on your hands and more difficult to control the hook and yarn for working at faster speeds.

HOLDING THE YARN

As with the crochet hook itself, there are multiple ways to hold your yarn when crocheting, again there is no right or wrong way to hold the yarn as long as you are comfortable and can easily move the yarn around without it getting tangled.

The following is a very simple beginner’s method that is easy to understand. This method is also comfortable for crocheting at a medium pace without hurting your hands.

Begin by draping the yarn over your index finger, now hold on to the main portion of the yarn using your ring and pinkie finger. You are now free to pinch the end of the yarn that is referred to as the tail with your middle finger and thumb.

Although a beginner method, many veteran crafters who crochet use this method for its comfort and ease of use, once again there is no correct method, you may choose to wrap the yarn around a few fingers while crocheting to help you balance everything together more. Just do what feels most comfortable for you.

CREATING THE STARTING KNOT

All that is required to start crocheting is a simple slip knot, this goes over the hook that you then tighten.

To begin, make a big loop as shown below, taking the top of the loop, fold it down over yarn strand connecting to the main part of your ball, not the shorter end! You should now have a smaller loop with a strand running through the middle of that loop and the tail extending out the other side as shown:

Next, take your crochet hook and thread it under the strand of yarn running through the center of the loop, now gripping tightly at both strands of yarn, slowly pull at the crochet hook, this will draw together the slip knot:

The perfect knot to work with should not be loose on the hook, but it should also not be so tight that you cannot slide the knot around on the hook.

CHAPTER 5: CROCHETING BASIC STITCHES

Now you know how to hold your yarn and hook correctly as well as how to create a knot. It is time to move on to the main crochet stitches; this section includes:

-Where to put the crochet hook

-How to Chain

-How to do a Single Crochet

-How to turn your work

-How to slip stitch

-How to do a Double Crochet

WHERE TO PUT THE CROCHET HOOK

There are a wide variety of places you can place the crochet hook in a chain. This section will review the easiest and most-common placement.

Below is a picture of what the top of a chain looks like along with what the top of a single crochet looks like. There are two distinctive loops on each. When crocheting any stitch unless specified by the pattern you will always use both of these loops.

You will insert your hook through both of these loops; this should look similar to the following picture:

Further on into this guide we will cover how to utilize both of those loops in different ways. The only time the placement of your hook can differ is when you start your work off. All projects start with a chain, now as specified above you can indeed go through both loops when working with the chain. However it may be easier for beginners to just practice by going through one of the loops only. This makes the chain easier to work with as it can get a little fiddly when you’ve just started.

HOW TO CHAIN

Chains are the most-common way to start off your project. Chains are your first initial building block that you use to guide the rest of your work, and luckily it is also one of the easiest crochet techniques.

To chain, begin with your knot on the hook holding your yarn gently, slide your hook up and wrap it round the yarn as shown below:

Now slide the yarn back down through the loop already on the crochet hook and pull. The original knot should come off of your hook and be underneath your first stitch.

Continue to repeat these steps to get the amount of chain stitches you require.

HOW TO DO A SINGLE CROCHET

Single crochet is one of the most-used stitches. It the first basic full stitch you will learn as it is very simple to complete, and many patterns can be made entirely of this one type of crochet stitch.

To make a single crochet, insert your crochet hook into your first chain:

Wrap the yarn around the hook, in the same way you would with a chain, pull the yarn back through the stitch but do not go through the loop you already have on your hook, you should now have two loops on your hook:

Now wrap the yarn back around the hook without going through a stitch and pull it through the two loops:

That is a basic single crochet, repeat these steps as required to reach the end of your row.

HOW TO TURN YOUR WORK

When you reach the end of a row of stitches and need to go the other way, you cannot simply turn it around and keep going. If you were to do this, your work would start to curl in on itself from the tension of not having any slack.

To turn your work you simply incorporate a single chain at the end of your rows, to do this you chain one simple stitch as shown below once you reach the end of a row.

Once you have this chain, you can turn your work around to face the opposite way and continue your work.

The amount of chains you put at the end of a row can vary depending on the type of stitch that you are doing. For example with single crochet you will usually add one single chain before turning, however with the taller stitches such as double and treble crochet you may add 2-4 chains when you turn.

The amount of chains you need to add when turning is usually written in any good crochet pattern, this can be located at the end of a rows description or if it is the same for every row it may be specified in the pattern description.

HOW TO SLIP STITCH

Slip stitches are an extremely simple form of crochet. This stitch is typically not used to crochet whole projects because it builds up very slowly. It is a very tight stitch that can make your work quite stiff. This type of stitch is frequently found on things like the rim of beanies to make them grip your head better or on projects like pots and bags to add stability and to ensure nothing falls through any gaps.

Slip stitches are also used to get from one side of your project to the other without adding an extra row onto you work. This type of stitch is also commonly used to attach two bits of crochet together as it acts as a type of sewing.

To make a slip stitch, you insert you crochet hook through a stitch and wrap the yarn around your hook:

Pull it back through your stitch without pulling up a big loop, and then take the yarn through the loop on your crochet hook and repeat as required.

HOW TO DO A DOUBLE CROCHET

The double crochet is the hardest stitch that you will learn in this guide, but don’t worry with practice it will become easier.

The double crochet is essentially the same as a single crochet with an extra few easy steps. The main difference in their appearance is that the double crochet is considerably taller than a single crochet, which means that this stitch can make your work grow very fast as the stitches you are using are larger. Another difference in their appearance is how they look altogether, single crochet stitches are very close together which creates a block of fabric which you can barely see through, double crochet, on the other hand, is a lot more open. This means that there will be gaps in your work, because of this; double crochet is a popular choice for granny squares “which intentionally have gaps in them” or lightweight scarves and blankets.

To begin, instead of putting your yarn into a stitch, wrap the yarn around the hook instead. This should leave you with two strands or loops of wool on your hook.

Now insert your hook into the stitch and pull the yarn through in the same way as you would with a single crochet which should leave you with three loops on your hook.

Now yarn over and pull through only 2 of the loops on the hook, yarn over once again and pull through the remaining loop.

And there you go! One completed double crochet stitch. This guide will mainly use the single crochet for teaching purposes; however one very simple double crochet pattern has been included in the patterns section of this guide for you to try.

CHAPTER 6: CROCHETING TECHNIQUES

Now you have the basic stitches mastered it is time to move on to something a little more tricky and in depth.

With the techniques you have learned over the last couple of chapters you can now create rectangles and squares of crocheted fabric. However, what if you wanted to make the fabric into different shapes? Maybe you want the fabric to curve, expand or shrink the further you get into it.

This chapter is going to cover the basics of how to increase and decrease the amount of stitches you have per row as well as how changing one simple thing can create interesting patterns and textures within your work.

INCREASING

Increasing is used to add more stitches to a row, this can be helpful when you want your work to grow in size. If used the right way, increasing can also create a beautiful design.

Increasing is very simple to do; you simply add more crochet stitches, that is all there is to it! You are not limited to putting one crochet stitch per chain. You can create a variety of shapes and sizes simply by adding maybe 1-2 extra stitches per chain.

To begin you can either start with just a chain or even a panel of fabric. The following example uses a small square of crocheted fabric. Start off with a normal single crochet, now instead of moving on to the next stitch, put your crochet hook back into the same stitch again as shown:

Pull through another loop and add another single crochet, you now have added 2 single crochets into one space:

Increasing is as simple as that, you can stick to just increasing at the very end of your rows or you can increase in every stitch along.

You also don’t need to have just 2 single crochets in each stitch either; there are a number of very attractive stitches available to you which involve putting up to 10 single crochets in a single stitch. Doing this can create a wonderful fan or shell effect in your work.

DECREASING

The process of decreasing means that the number of stitches you have per row goes down, this technique is used for shrinking down your projects or tightening edges.

As mentioned in the increasing section, you are not limited to how many decreases you can have in a row. If you want just to decrease at the ends of a row then you can but if you want to decrease in every stitch along then by all means go ahead!

The only limitation you have when decreasing is that to decrease you need 2 spaces, this means you need two stitches to do it, so if you have an uneven number of stitches in your row then 1 stitch needs to be a regular stitch.

Decreasing is a little bit more complicated than increasing as you are not just missing out stitches; there is a certain technique you have to use for your project not to have holes where stitches are missing; this method is referred to as crocheting two together.

Every crochet stitch has its own way of decreasing; however, this tutorial will cover how to do a basic single crochet decrease stitch.

To begin, insert your hook into the stitch and pull the yarn through as if you are going to do a single crochet this should leave you with two loops on your hook:

Now insert your hook into your next stitch, do not remove or do anything with the two loops already on the hook. Once again hook the yarn and pull it through as if you were going to do a single crochet, you should now have a total of three loops on your hook.

Now wrap your hook around the yarn one last time and draw it through all 3 loops that are on your hook. You should now be left with one loop on your hook. This method shrinks 2 stitches down to 1. You can now either continue crocheting normally or perform another decreasing stitch:

WORKING IN DIFFERENT LOOPS

So by this point you should be able to do the most basic of crochet stitches such as slip stitches and single crochet. This section covers how you can change the way you work looks by altering the location of your hook.

Below is what a single crochet stitch looks like from the top:

Here you can see that there is two different loops side by side that make up a single crochet. When you do a normal single crochet on top if this one, your hook goes underneath both of these loops; however you can crochet into those individual loops themselves, these are known as the front and back loops.

To work in the front loop only, insert your crochet hook through the first loop only, you can do any stitch you would like such as a single crochet.

FRONT LOOP

BACK LOOP

To work in the back loop, insert your hook through the back loop only; once again you can do any stitch you like at this point

Working in the front and back loops can make your work have an interesting texture and appearance. They can also be used to make the fabric fall or curve a certain way. It is typically used in patterns such as slippers or baby shoes to make them curve and fold in the right places.

Make sure to play around with the techniques mentioned in this chapter, it will not only improve your understanding of crochet patterns but also broaden your knowledge of different things you can do with crocheting.

CHAPTER 7: BEGINNERS CROCHET PATTERNS

Great, you have made it this far! You’ve bought all the tools you need and practiced all the basics, now it is time for you to make your first crocheted project! The following patterns range from being suitable for complete beginners who have never made a thing before, to slightly more complicated patterns to challenge you.

CELL PHONE SOCK

This project is perfect for a complete crochet beginner, not only is the pattern written with no abbreviations but in the end you get something you can actually use!

This pattern is based on a smart phone size and is suitable for iPhone as well as larger smart phones like the Samsung galaxy. If you find this pattern is too loose on your phone you can crochet fewer rows in the pattern below to tighten it up.

SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED:

-1 light/medium weight ball of wool in the color of your choice

-4mm crochet hook

-Tapestry needle

-Scissors

INSTRUCTIONS

-To begin, chain 23

-Row 1: Insert your crochet hook into the second chain from the hook.

-Now put a regular single crochet into that chain

-Continue to put a single crochet into every chain along until you reach the end of your row of chains, you should have a total of 22 single crochets.

-Chain 1 and turn your work around.

-Row 2: Insert your hook into the first single crochet of the row and begin to put one single crochet into each stitch in the row, once again you should have a total of 22 single crochets.

-Row 3-24: Repeat row 2 until you reach the end of your 24th row, once you have reached the end, finish off and weave in any loose ends with a tapestry needle.

-Now that you have your rectangle of crocheted fabric, fold it over so it looks like a phone sock.

-Taking a tapestry needle and a long piece of yarn that is the same color as the phone sock, begin to sew neatly around the bottom of the sock to close it up. Make sure to leave the top open so you can get your phone in there!

-Once complete, finish off your sewing with a knot and weave in any loose ends.

-Now turn the phone case inside out and there you have it; one very easy but funky looking crocheted phone sock!

-You can customize these however you wish. You may try using different colors or stick designs or items to the sock itself. These make great last minute gift ideas as they take hardly any time to make!

POT HOLDERS

When crochet became widely available one of the first projects children were taught was a pot holder. This was not only to teach them the basics of crochet, but the pot holders also had a purpose for when the children began to learn how to cook.

Pot holders are very simple to make, and the best part about this project is you can change the colors around to match your kitchen. These pot holders are suitable for picking up trays and baking dishes from the oven but not appropriate for placing over direct flames or sources of heat.

SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED:

-2 balls of medium to heavy weight wool in the colors of your choice (or one ball if you want both sides to be the same color)

-4mm Crochet hook

-Scissors

-Tapestry needle

INSTRUCTIONS

-To begin, Chain 35

-Row 1: Insert your hook into the second chain from where your hook is and put a single crochet here, continue putting a single crochet into every chain stitch all the way to the end, you should have 34 stitches in total, chain 1 and turn your work.

-Row 2: Begin once again by inserting your crochet hook into the first stitch of that row and beginning to single crochet, put one single crochet in each stitch along the row till you reach the end, chain 1 and turn your work.

-Row 3-34: repeat row 2 until you reach the 34th row, the number of chains you started with should equal the number of rows, this allows you to create a perfect square. Finish off. Use a tapestry needle to sew the remaining yarn into the square to hide it.

-Repeat this pattern 3 more times to create 4 identical squares.

-Once you have your 4 squares, line up 2 on top if each other in the color order of your choice.

-Now taking your tapestry needle and a long piece if yarn in your choice of color, begin to sew neatly around 3 out of the 4 edges. This is to allow you to put your hand inside the glove so be sure to leave one side open!

-Once you have finished sewing round the edges, finish off with a knot and weave the remaining thread into the pot holders to neaten everything up.

-Now repeat these steps with the other glove.

-Once this is complete you now have a pair of funky pot holders that were custom made for your kitchen!

-You can either stop here or you can add a little loop on each over pot holder that allows you to hang them up.

-To create this loop, use a little bit of string or yarn, thread it through and tie a knot. If you want to crochet the loop, simply chain 14 and then finish off. Sew the chain into the shape of a loop, and then attach it to the corners of your pot holders.

BASIC GRANNY SQUARE

This pattern is designed to teach you how to make a basic granny square using double crochet. This pattern is slightly more complicated than the previous patterns. To help make things easier the pattern has been written to include the full crochet terms, this means no words have been shortened.

If you get stuck, please refer to the stitch guide and the pattern reading section of this guide, take your time and do not rush!

SUPPLIES YOU WILL NEED:

-A suitable yarn of your choice, I recommend light or medium weight wool

-A 4mm or size G crochet hook

-A pair of scissors

-Tapestry needle

-Time and patience!

INSTRUCTIONS

-To begin, attach your yarn to your hook using a slip knot

-Now chain 4

-Insert your hook into the first chain that you did and yarn over

-Pull your yarn through the loop on your hook to slip stitch everything together to create a ring

-Round 1: Chain 3 (these count as one stitch through the entire pattern)

-Yarn over and put your crochet hook through the middle of the ring you created and make a double crochet. (For this pattern you will not be working in stitches but in empty spaces instead, which makes things easier!)

-Now make one more double crochet right next to your first one, make sure to go through the loop to do them, you should now have three stitches.

-Chain 2, now do 3 more double crochet within that central ring

-Chain 2, once again put 3 more double crochets in the ring

-Chain 2, make a final 3 double crochet within the ring

-You should have a total of 12 double crochets within the loop at this point with a chain 2 space in between each one.

-Chain 2 and insert your crochet hook into the top of your starting chain and slip stitch together to join the whole lot. You now should have something that looks like this:

-Round 2: Chain 3, you now want to do 2 double crochets into the gap you just created by chaining 2, don’t worry if it looks a little crowded as it evens itself out.

-Chain 2, skip over the 3 double crochets from the previous row and do 3 double crochets in your next chain 2 space.

-Chain 2, staying in the space you are in, do 3 more double crochets, with a granny square, you will always end up putting 3 double crochets, chain 2 and another set of 3 double crochets in the corners; this is to make the square expand.

-Chain 2, skip over the 3 double crochets from the previous round and in the corner put 3 double crochets, chain 2 and another set of 3 double crochets.

-Chain 2, skip over the 3 double crochets from the previous round and in the corner put 3 double crochets, chain 2 and another set of 3 double crochets.

-Chain 2, in the final corner space you should already have one set of 3 double crochets from the beginning of the round. Put another set of 3 double crochets and a chain 2 and attach the top of the chain 2 to the top of the first double crochet you did to finish off this round.

-Round 3: From here onwards it is pretty much the same in every round; the only difference is that in between the corners the number of chain 2 spaces you have will increase. In these gaps simply fill them with 3 double crochets.

-Chain 3, Do 2 double crochets into the gap you just created by chaining 2 as in the previous round.

-Chain 2 and put 3 double crochets in the chain 2 gaps which is in the center of your square

-Chain 2 put 3 double crochets, chain 2 and another 3 double crochets in the corner space.

-Chain 2 and put 3 double crochets in the chain 2 gaps in the center of the row.

-Chain 2 put 3 double crochets, chain 2 and another 3 double crochets in the corner space.

-Chain 2 and put 3 double crochets in the chain 2 gaps in the center of the row.

-Chain 2 put 3 double crochets, chain 2 and another 3 double crochets in the corner space.

-Chain 2 and put 3 double crochets in the chain 2 gaps in the center of the row.

-Now just like the previous round, simply put one more set of 3 double crochets in the last corner space, chain 2 and join this to the top of the first double crochet.

There you go! After this very long process, you should have yourself an impressive looking granny square you should be very proud of! At this point, you can either finish off your work or you can repeat the steps in round 3 to expand your granny square and potentially make a blanket out of it.

Book 2: Crochet Stitches Beginners Guide

By

Emily Nelson

PREFACE

The art of crochet has been around since the early 19th century and is thought to originate from areas of South America and China. Although the first substantial written evidence of the craft was discovered in 1797 in Europe, crochet has been known by a number of names over the years and was considered a sub-category of knitting for a short time. There are many references through history of pieces of fine lace work that bears similarities to crochet; there are even some references dating back to the Victorian Era.

You can see examples of crochet everywhere in modern times; one of the most prominent places it is found is in fashion. Crochet has made a big comeback in the fashion world over the last several years as it has become trendy for the spring and summer months. You will most commonly see the necklines or hems of dresses and shirts with crocheted sections, as well as waistcoats and cover ups, made entirely out of crocheted fabric.

Many people prefer the art of crochet over knitting due to how easy it is to pick up. Crochet can be less frustrating than knitting because with crochet you work 1 row at a time. This means you can correct little mistakes as you go rather than unravelling half of your work to get at a stitch you dropped three rows ago.

This book is designed to show you over 30 different crochet stitches that you can incorporate in your everyday projects. The chapters start off with the basic beginner stitches and go all the way up to more advanced stitches. There are also sections dedicated to the less frequent and even bizarre stitches, including one that uses a broom!

This guide does not include instructions on how to crochet. This book is written like a dictionary for beginner knitters to learn new and unique stitches. The crochet stitch instructions in this book are written out in plain English so that you can follow along even if you do not fully understand crochet lingo.

All of the stitches provided in this book allow you to create a variety of beautifully textured and unique items from the comfort of your home, so what are you waiting for? Grab a crochet hook and some yarn and let’s get started!

CHAPTER 1: BASIC STITCHES

This section is designed to give you some of the most basic crochet stitches that are very beginner friendly. You  can use these stitches for entire projects or the basis of these stitches as a frame for more advanced stitches found later in this guide.

SINGLE CROCHET

When learning how to crochet, single crochet will become your best friend. It is the core stitch you will need to learn because it is incorporated into many crochet patterns you will come across. The single crochet has the appearance of a very tight piece of fabric. It has very few holes in it and has distinctive uniform rows that look elegant and crisp. This gives your work a very clean look. Height wise, single crochet is one of the smallest of the crochet stitches; therefore work tends to build slowly when using this stitch.

To single crochet begin with your chain or row, insert your crochet hook into the next stitch or chain along. Put your yarn over your hook and draw that yarn through the hole, once you have brought the yarn through the stitch or chain you should now have 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over again and draw that yarn through both of these loops on your hook. You should now be left with only 1 loop on your hook, and that is it! That is how simple a single crochet is.

SLIP STITCH

A slip stitch, like the single crochet, is one of the basics. It has a huge variety of uses and is crucial to learn early. A row of slip stitches looks very uniform and tight. This stitch is not typically used for large sheets of fabric or objects due to how tightness of the stitches. The most common use for this stitch is for crossing a row without adding any more height to your work. It is also used to make something tighter, such as the rim of a hat. Slip stitches are commonly used to join two bits of work together such as two sheets of fabric; to do this you work a slip stitch through both pieces of fabric to join them together.

To slip stitch insert your crochet hook into the next stitch along, yarn over and draw this yarn from back to front through the stitch, now bring that yarn through the loop that is already on your hook, and that is it! This can be a little fiddly to get the hang of, but you can make it easier by making the loop on your hook a little looser, this helps with pulling the yarn through the loop.

DOUBLE CROCHET

A double crochet is twice the height of a single crochet and is just as easy. This crochet stitch has a much more open look and projects using this stitch will build very quickly. Due to the height of this stitch you will tend to need a larger starting chain; otherwise your work can begin to look warped.

To double crochet, begin by yarning over your hook, this will leave you with 2 loops on your hook. Insert the crochet hook into the next stitch (or 3rd stitch if starting at the beginning of a row) and yarn over once more and draw that yarn through the stitch. You will now have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over once again and draw that yarn through 2 of the 3 loops only, once this is complete you will have 2 loops left on the hook. Yarn over a final time and draw the yarn through the last 2 loops on your hook and you are done.

CHAPTER 2: ADVANCED STITCHES

This section will focus on the fiddly and more advanced crochet stitches. All of these stitches use the basic stitches reviewed in the previous section, but with slight variations. The results are unique and unusual stitches you can use in your next project.

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET

This stitch is a variant of a double crochet. The height of this stitch is hallway between single and double crochet. This stitch has fewer steps than a double crochet which makes it a favorite among many people. Another significant attribute of this stitch is that it is tall like a double crochet but has the density of a single crochet.

To make a half double crochet, begin by yarning over your hook. This will leave you with 2 loops on your hook. Insert the crochet hook into the next stitch and yarn over once more and draw that yarn through the stitch, you will now have 3 loops on your hook. At this point all of these steps are the same as a double crochet, it is how you finish the stitch that is different. Yarn over and pull that yarn through all 3 loops that are on your hook to complete the stitch, and that is it!

TREBLE CROCHET

A treble crochet is a very tall stitch. It is commonly used for large open projects such as light weight blankets. This stitch does require quite a few steps, but once you have mastered how to do this, it will not take very long at all.  As with double crochet, you will need to compensate when turning your work by chaining 3-5 depending on the pattern.

To begin yarn over 2 times, you should start with 3 loops on your hook. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through the stitch giving you 4 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 of the 4 loops on your hook, you will be left with 3 loops after pulling through. Yarn over again and pull through another 2 loops; you will be left with 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over a final time and pull through the remaining 2 loops on your hook. Yes, it is a bit time-consuming and tricky to work with, but the results are worth it.

A great way to remember how many times to pull through the loops is in the names, a single crochet only pulls through the loops once; a double crochet pulls through the loops twice, and the treble crochet will pull through the loops three times.

FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET

The front post double crochet can be tricky to learn, especially if you are new to crochet. The confusion comes from the placement of your hook. The front post double crochet is simply a regular double crochet, but what makes it unique is where you will place your hook before beginning this stitch.

The finished stitch will give you the effect of a raised edge or ridge through your work. When used in conjunction with a back post double crochet, it can create a beautiful pattern.

To begin do a standard row of double crochet, this is your foundation for this stitch. If the foundation is not done, the stitch will not work. Chain 2 when you reach the end of this row.

At the beginning of your new row, yarn over and instead of inserting your hook into the top of the double crochet stitch, go under and around the stitch or post itself as shown.

Now yarn over and pull the yarn through the way you came. Finish off with a regular double crochet by yarning over and going through 2 loops, yarning over and going through the final 2 loops.

BACK POST DOUBLE CROCHET

Like the front post double crochet, this is simply a glorified double crochet, but put into a different place to create a unique little design in your work. This stitch can be used by itself or in conjunction with the front post double crochet to create a fun raised and sunken texture within your projects.

To begin, do a regular row of double crochet to form the foundation for this stitch Chain 2 at the end of your row for turning.

Now yarn over and instead of going into the top of the stitch, go behind your work and insert your hook around the post of the stitch as shown. From this position yarn over and pull the yarn through the path which you came to draw up a loop. Once you have your 3 loops on the hook, yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through the final 2 loops just like in a regular double crochet.

The front and back post double crochet work very well together and can create a type of stitch known as a basket weave, covered later on in this guide. These two stitches are also a perfect example of how you can take a regular basic stitch like the double crochet and alter it slightly to give you a great effect.

CHAPTER 3: TEXTURED STITCHES

This section will focus on textured stitches. There are a wide variety of crochet stitches that give great textures through fairly simple methods; this has been a reason crochet has become so popular. The stitches in this section are relatively easy to complete, and some of them are just an expansion of stitches taught in previous sections of this book.

FRONT LOOP CROCHET

Not to be confused with the similar front post crochet, this stitch is simple and doesn’t have much of an impact. The stitch can make your plain objects have a touch of pizazz with no extra effort; as it utilizes a very basic and user-friendly single crochet.

To begin, first you need to see where your crochet hook goes. You can see from the top view of a chain or row of single crochet that you have two distinctive loops. For a regular crochet you would use both of these loops when inserting your hook, however for a front loop crochet you will be going through that first loop closest to you only!

Once at this stage simply yarn over and pull through. Yarn over and go through both 2 loops on your hook exactly like you would in a double crochet, there is nothing more to this stitch, but to make more of them!

BACK LOOP CROCHET

Just like in the front loop crochet, do not get this stitch confused with a back post double crochet as they are 2 different things. Just like the front loop crochet, this stitch utilizes the basic single crochet to create a pattern that is unique. This particular type of crochet is also used in making items like shoes and containers, as it manipulates the yarn to bend and fold in the required directions.

To begin, first you need to see where your crochet hook goes, you can clearly see from the top view of a chain or row of single crochet that you have two distinctive loops. For a regular crochet, you would use both of these loops when inserting your hook. However, for a back loop crochet you will be inserting your hook through the back loop only. Once you have done this, yarn over as you would with a single crochet, pull the yarn through, yarn over and pull through both of the 2 loops on your hook to complete the stitch.

MOSS STITCH

The Moss stitch uses 2 different crochet stitches to add a unique look to your work. This is a simple yet intriguing stitch that will spruce up many of your projects.

-Begin at the beginning of your row, and start by putting a regular half double crochet in that first stitch, and then slip stitch into the next stitch. Repeat this pattern of one half double crochet and one slip stitch to the end of the row. You will be able to clearly see a little dip in your work wherever you did a slip stitch.

-Once you reach the end of your row, chain 1 and turn your work. Now on this row you want to do the complete opposite of the previous row, this means wherever you put a half double crochet you now want to do a slip stitch, and wherever there is a slip stitch you want to do a half double crochet.

-If you forget what stitch is where, you can look at the stitch below it. If the stitch below is small than the one next to it then it was a slip stitch, if it is taller than the stitch next to it then it was a half double crochet. Keep working this pattern until you are happy with the length of your work.

BASKET STITCH

This particular stitch makes use of the stitches covered in the advanced section of this book. It uses both the front and back post double crochet, but in a particular pattern to create a beautiful texture to any pattern.

This type of stitch is mainly used for table runners, hats and blankets. The reason is that the stitch takes a long time to complete, and the result is a dense fabric. However, you can experiment with using this stitch in any project you would like.

To begin, first start off with the correct number of chains because this pattern relies on multiples. This means you must always have enough chains in that multiple. For example, if you decide that you want 4 stitches per basket stitch then your overall number of chains should be a multiple of 4, such as 16. If you wanted 5 stitches, then it would be a multiple of 5, such as 20. For this demonstration, we will be using a multiple of 4.

-Begin by having a chain of 16 with an extra 2 for your stitch allowance. Next put one double crochet in each stitch to the end of the row, chain 2 and turn your work.

-At this stage you now want to do 4 back post double crochets, and then 4 front post double crochets, repeat this pattern to complete the row, chain 2 and turn.

-Now repeat the pattern but this time in reverse. So wherever you put a front post double crochet, put a back post double crochet and vice versa.

-Simply repeat this pattern till your work is at a length you are happy with.

X STITCH

The X stitch is a very open type of stitch. The reason it is in the textured section of this book is because it has a wonderful pattern and texture that adds a beautiful highlight to any work. The X stitch like the other stitches in this section makes use of the stitches in the basic section of this guide. Note, this particular stitch requires knowledge of the double crochet.

This stitch is worked over 2 stitches. Be sure your chain or row is an even number so you can fit all the stitches.

-To begin, skip the first stitch and put a double crochet into the second stitch. Once you complete the first double crochet, yarn over and insert the hook into the stitch or chain that you skipped previously.

-Complete this by going round the back of the first stitch, into the stitch, yarn over and pull through before finishing off like a regular double crochet.

This stitch is a little tricky to get your head around in the beginning, but it is well worth the effort as you can add a unique look to your work.

CHAPTER 4: LACE AND OPEN WORK STITCHES

This chapter will focus specifically on the crochet stitches that are open and delicate. The stitches in this section will include variations of both basic stitches and some entirely new techniques which can add a very elegant look to your work without being overly complicated.

CHAIN LACE

This form of lace crochet is by far one of the easiest you will come across, why? It only uses chaining to create the actual lace itself! You use one of the most basic of crocheting techniques to create this beautiful open delicate lace design to create sheets of fabric, objects or even a trim or edging.

Chain lace is worked by using multiples of 4; this means that when working chain lace you must have enough stitches in your row to be a multiple of 4 such as 16. You can however use larger multiples of 5-8 if you wanted a very open look.

-Begin by chaining your starting row of 16 (or whatever multiple you choose). Slip stitch into the 4th chain from the hook, chain another 4 and slip stitch into the 4th stitch along, repeat this once more to finish the row.

-From this point you will be working in the loops rather than individual.

-Chain 4 and slip stitch through the middle of your first loop. This can be a little difficult to see depending on how tight your work is, chain another 4 and slip stitch through the center of the next loop. Repeat this once more to finish the row.

-Repeat this series of steps to carry on with your work and simply finish off once your work has reached your desired length. Please note that this stitch can sometimes appear warped in the first few rows, this is completely normal and will even itself out as you continue.

SOLOMON’S KNOT

This stitch is commonly known as Solomon’s knot; however, it is also known and can appear in patterns as the lovers knot. It is a very dainty lace design which can either be very loose or very tight depending on your preference. Solomon’s knot does not use any techniques similar to that of other stitches and has its own unique method to create this type of stitch.

-To begin, start with your starting knot plus a chain 2, single crochet into the second chain from your hook. Next pull up a loop by pulling on the crochet hook, the length of this loop will determine how loose and open your Solomon’s knot lace will be, the typical length for this loop is usually a maximum of half an inch.

-Now yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop, you will now have 2 bits of yarn on one side and one bit of yarn on the other side; you will need to keep these pieces separated.

-Next you will want to put your crochet hook through the center of the loop you created, pull the yarn through and perform a standard single crochet and seal it all together. Once you have completed that first knot you can repeat from the beginning by drawing up a same size loop after you finish the last single crochet and carryon from there.

V-STITCH

The crochet V stitch is the smallest stitch in this chapter. It is not considered a lace stitch, but it is a very open type of stitch hence why it is in this section. The V stitch gives any work a beautiful and delicate feel.

The V stitch is a very fast working stitch that is popular for larger projects, such as blankets and Afghans. The stitch has a great overall look and texture without being too time consuming to create.

The V stitch is worked in multiples of 7 with an extra 3 chains for turning; keep this in mind when doing your starting chain. The chain 3 you do also counts as your first double crochet of each row.

-Begin by putting a double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook, chain 1 and skip the next chain, *double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, all in the same stitch or chain then skip the next 2 chains*. Repeat *to* to the end of the row, finish off the round with 2 double crochets in the final 2 stitches.

-In the next row start off with a double crochet, chain 1 then work *double crochet, chain 1, double crochet, all in the same stitch or chain* into every V stitch from the previous round Finish the rows off with 2 double crochets in the final 2 stitches.

That is your basic V stitch. For a more colorful effect you can switch to a different color of yarn for each row of V stitches to give it a great granny square effect to the project.

CHAPTER 5: MESH STITCHES

This section will focus on mesh stitches; this type of stitch although very open is not considered lace. The reason is that the way these stitches are laid out gives them the appearance of uniformity, such as the look of wired mesh or chicken wire. This type of stitch does not alter much in appearance, but you can change the look by increasing the height of the stitches as well as the size of the hook you use.

SMALL MESH GROUND

The small mesh ground or a single crochet mesh stitch is the smallest of the mesh stitches in this guide. This stitch makes use of the most basic of crochet techniques, the single crochet and the chain.

-To begin, on your starting chain single crochet into the 3rd chain from the hook and chain 1, skip the following chain and single crochet into the next chain, once again chain 1 and skip the next chain.

-By this point you should see a pattern forming of a tiny little grid. Do not worry if the ends look weird as they even themselves out the more of this stitch you do. Repeat the pattern of a single crochet, chain 1, skip 1, until you come to the end of your row.

-Once you reach the end of the row, chain 3 and turn your work. Next single crochet either into the top of the first single crochet you did (this lines each stitch up to make it appear more grid like) or into the chain 1 space you did (this gives your work a kind of staggered effect).

-Repeat this sequence until your work is the desired length.

LARGE MESH GROUND

The large mesh ground also called double crochet mesh stitch, just like its smaller makes use of the basic stitches of a chain stitch and a double crochet. This stitch is a lot more open than the smaller version and if completed correctly can look very delicate and pretty.

This stitch is worked in a very similar way to the smaller version except you have to allow extra stitches to compensate because a double crochet is a lot taller than a single crochet.

-To begin, start with a long chain, put one double crochet into the 5th chain from the hook, for a more basic looking mesh chain 1 and skip 1 stitch, for a more open and lace effect mesh, chain 2 and skip 2 stitches.

-Double crochet into the next chain along and chain 1-2, skip your chosen number of stitches and carry on in this fashion until you reach the end of your row. Chain 5 and turn your work, next double crochet either into the top of the first single crochet (this lines each stitch up to make it appear more grid like) or into the chain 1 space you did (this gives your work a kind of staggered effect).

-Repeat this effect until you reach the desired length.

DIAMOND MESH STITCH

This stitch is the only one in this section that does not run horizontal. The diamond mesh stitch looks very similar to chicken wire and uses the same technique as chain lace found in the lace and open work section of this guide.

The only difference between this technique and chain lace is that in chain lace you will work through the loops you create, whereas with diamond mesh you will attach each strand to a stitch making it appear more uniform and secure. You will attach your yarn to the chains using a single crochet. This gives your work a very similar appearance to the joins on a chain link fence where the wire is knotted and wrapped around each other to keep its shape.

Just like with the chain lace, you need to start with a multiple of 4 to make this work. If you wanted a larger diamond mesh then use a bigger multiple like 5 or 6, but for the purposes of the tutorial a multiple of 4 is be used.

-Begin by chaining your starting row of 20 (or any other multiple of 4), slip stitch into the 4th chain from the hook, chain another 4 and slip stitch into the 4th stitch along, repeat this once more to finish the row.

-Now, unlike with the chain lace, you will still be working into the chains rather than the loops themselves.

-Chain 4 and turn your work. You will now single crochet into the top chain of the first loop; this will either be the 2nd or 3rd chain, whichever one happens to fall at the highest point of the loop. Chain 4 and single crochet into the top chain of the next loop along, repeat this process to reach the end of the row.

-Keep in mind that just like the chain lace the beginning and ending loop of the rows may be difficult to see based on how tight you chained. Your work may also appear warped at the ends, don’t worry this evens itself out the more of this stitch you do.

-Repeat these steps to grow your diamond mesh to the length you require.

CHAPTER 6: CLUSTER STITCHES

This chapter will focus on a special set of stitches called cluster stitches. These funky types of stitches create clusters by grouping large amounts of yarn together in one area. The pattern or look you get is based on the type of cluster stitch you use. Using a little amount of yarn or stitches can give you a tiny bobble, whereas using a lot of yarn or stitches in one place can give you a large puffy appearance.

PUFF STITCH

Sometimes referred to as the popcorn stitch or a bobble stitch, this is the largest and fullest of the cluster stitches in this section. It has a large puffy appearance as if it is a popped popcorn kernel. This stitch builds very slowly and does take quite a bit of yarn, but it is worth it due to the light and lovely look it gives to your projects.

-To begin chain 3 wherever it is you want to start your puff stitch. Yarn over like you would a regular double crochet and insert your hook into the next stitch along, yarn over and pull back through, you should now have 3 loops on your hook.

-Yarn over once more and insert your crochet hook into the same stitch as before, yarn over and pull up another loop. You should now have 5 loops on your hook, repeat this step 2 more times until you have a total of 9 loops on your hook (you should repeat the process 4 times to get this number).

-Now yarn over one final time and pull the yarn through all 9 loops on your hook. This can be a little tricky so take your time and go loop by loop. Once you have gone through all the loops finish with a chain 2, this stabilizes the puff stitch and stops it bending in one direction.

-To work the next puff stitch always skip one stitch to allow it enough room otherwise it can be too overcrowded.

BULLION STITCH

The bullion stitch is considered one of the hardest stitches to master. It is not only very fiddly to try to get the hang of, but there is quite a bit that can go wrong that can affect the shape of the stitch. This type of stitch is not as large as a puff stitch and can be used in every stitch or every other stitch along depending on how big you make them.

The bullion stitch itself has a unique and different appearance which can make any work you do look all the more technical. Like all cluster stitches it does take up a fair bit of yarn; but unlike the puff stitch, there are a lot less steps that go into making a bullion stitch.

-To start, begin yarning over repeatedly on your hook. The number of yarn overs you need will be specified if you are reading from a pattern. For the purposes of this tutorial, we shall yarn over a total of 4 times.

-Now insert your hook into the next stitch along, yarn over and pull through the yarn, now here comes the tricky bit! Pull that yarn through all of the yarn overs or loops you did in the beginning. This step is what gives the bullion stitch its tough reputation as you need to be able to have the right tension which takes practice to make this step work.

-Begin slowly dragging your hook and yarn through the loops you did; it can help to use a spare finger to help push the yarn overs off the hook in the beginning until you get the tension right. Once you have passed through all loops, finish off the stitch with a chain 1 to hold it all together and move on to the next stitch.

Don’t worry if you do not get this straight away, this is a very hard stitch to learn and will take a fair bit of time and patience to master.

RASPBERRY STITCH

The raspberry stitch is the smallest and also the easiest of the cluster stitches within this guide. Not only does this stitch not use loops like the puff and bullion stitch, but it is also quick to do while looking just as good as the other cluster stitches.

This stitch makes use of the basic crochet stitches found within this guide including the single and double crochet. This stitch works best if you use it on top of a base of solid stitches; for example, on top of a row of single or double crochet.

-To begin, at the beginning of your row, in the first stitch put *1 single crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 single crochet* all within 1 stitch, after this skip the next 2 stitches and repeat that same sequence into the next stitch.

-And that is it! You simply repeat that sequence of stitches in a single stitch to create your raspberry stitch! It’s important to note that from the front (the side you are looking at) it will not look very special. The cluster or little puff of this stitch appears on the back of your work so make sure to work inside out if you want to in the front of your projects.

CHAPTER 7: FAN AND SHELL STITCHES

This section will focus on different types of fan and shell stitches. These stitches get their name from the semi-circle or fan like appearance. Fan and shell stitches are often used to create a lovely border around projects such as blankets and Afghans. There are also lace varieties of these stitches which are popular when making lace beach cover ups or shirts.

Fan and shell stitches tend to look exactly the same and can be hard to distinguish from each other. The main difference between a fan and a shell stitch is the way they are made up. A shell stitch tends to be made up of a group of stitches in one single stitch, and a fan is usually made up in the same way but has chain spaces between each stitch making them more open. Another main difference is shell stitches will often stagger getting multiple shell stitches per row, whereas fan stitches will almost always be stacked on top of each other.

BASIC SHELL STITCH

The basic shell stitch is a very easy stitch to learn and can easily be spruced up to look like a lot of time and effort has gone into the project. A popular option with the shell stitch is to do each row in a different color, this helps to distinguish each row of shells to make them stand out. This technique is popular with the V stitch as well.

For the shell stitch, you will be working in multiples of 6 plus 1 for your turning chain.

-To begin single crochet into the second chain from the hook, skip 2 chains and put 5 double crochets into the following chain, this creates your shell. Skip the next 2 chains and single crochet into the next chain.

-Repeat this pattern of *1 single crochet, skip 2 chains, 5 double crochet into next chain, skip 2 chains, 1 single crochet in the next chain* until you reach the end of the row, chain 3 (counts as 1 double crochet) and turn your work.

-On the next row do 2 double crochet into the same area as the chain 3 you did, skip 2 double crochets from the row before and single crochet into the next one; this should be the center of the fan. Skip another 2 double crochets and do 5 double crochets into the next single crochet. Repeat this pattern to the end of the row ending with a set of 3 double crochet.

-Repeat these two steps to grow your shell stitches to the required length.

BASIC FAN STITCH

As mentioned at the beginning of this chapter, fan stitches vary from shell stitches due to the gaps in between each stitch as the fact each fan stitch will be stacked on top of one another rather than go up in a diagonal line.

This pattern only has 2 repeating rows and is worked in multiples of 8 plus 2 for your turning.

-Start with a chain of 26, single crochet into the second chain from the hook *skip 3 chains then do [1 double crochet plus a chain 1] 4 times all into one chain, do 1 more double crochet into the same shell, skip the next 3 chains and single crochet into the following chain* repeat this pattern to finish the row.

-Chain 6 and turn your work, *single crochet into the double crochet which is the center of the first fan, chain 3 and then double crochet into the next single crochet* repeat this pattern across to the end of the row.

-Chain 1 and turn your work, *skip 3 chains then do [1 double crochet plus a chain 1] 4 times all into one chain, this should line up with the top of the fan from the previous round, do 1 more double crochet into the same shell, skip the next 3 chains and single crochet into the following chain*repeat this pattern to finish the row.

-Repeat the last 2 steps to grow your work to the required length.

ARCADE STITCH

The arcade stitch is one of those stitches that have many different names and variations around the world. In some places this stitch does not even have a name. The stitch has a very distinctive open appearance that almost looks as if the fans have been reversed. Do not let the complicated look deceive you! This fan is actually remarkably easy to learn and looks fantastic at the same time!

The arcade stitch is worked using multiples of 8 plus 2 for turning.

-Start with a chain of 28, skip the first chain and single crochet into the 2nd and 3rd chain, chain 5 at this point and skip the next 5 chains and single crochet into the next 3 chains. Repeat the steps of chain 5, skip 5 chains and single crochet into the next 3 chains to finish the row, end the row with 2 single crochet rather than 3.

-Chain 1 and turn your work, do 1 single crochet into the first single crochet, skip the next stitch and work 9 double crochets into the chain 5 space from the row before* skip the first single crochet out of the set of 3 and work 1 single crochet into the second one, skip the last single crochet in the set. Work another 9 double crochet into the chain 5 space* repeat this pattern to the end of the row. Finish off by skipping one single crochet and single crocheting into the last single crochet of the row.

-Chain 4 and turn your work, skip the first 3 double crochets and single crochet into the next 3 stitches,* chain 5 and skip the next 6 double crochets, work 3 single crochets into the next 3 stitches * repeat this process across the row to the end, finish with a chain 1 and do 1 double crochet into the last stitch of the round.

-Chain 3 and work 4 double crochets in the chain 4 spaces from the previous round,* single crochet into the middle of the set of 3 single crochet, work 9 double crochet into the chain 5 space* repeat to the end of the row ending with 5 double crochets in the final gap

-Repeat all of the steps from the beginning to create and grow your arcade stitch.

CHAPTER 8: TRIMS & EDGING

So you’ve used all the stitches in this guide to create a beautiful piece of fabric and are wondering how exactly can you finish off the edges? This section will cover some of your options and different trims you can use to finish your work off.

PICOT EDGING

Picot edging is very dainty looking yet still makes any item look fun. A picot is a very tiny bobble made by doubling back on the work you have done; it creates cute little raised bobbles without going through the trouble of making a puff stitch.

-Begin by starting where you want your border to start from. Chain 3 from that spot, now place your hook through the 3rd chain from the hook, from here yarn over and pull the yarn through the hook. This pulls the chain down forming a little bobble.

-From this point you can either choose to make a little picot into every stitch or you can space them out a little by doing 1 or 2 single crochets in between, which creates a nice design overall.

You can work this edging all the way around the border of your projects, and it will add that extra bit of detail. If you decide to put spaces in between each picot stitch make sure that that it works out evenly to avoid getting any wrong size gaps.

REVERSE DOUBLE CROCHET EDGING

Reverse double crochet edging is another simple method of finishing. This technique is simple but adds a neat border to tidy up any wonky stitches or frayed yarn.

This particular stitch requires only a very basic stitch, the double crochet! The trick that makes this technique special is how you use it; this method can be used as a border on almost everything from blankets to booties.

-To begin, make a row of double crochet around everything you want to have a border. Make sure that if working with blankets or objects with corners to put an extra 3 double crochet in the corners to make sure your object keeps its shape.

-Next double crochet back along what you have already done but don’t turn your work! This can be a little difficult to get your head around, but the effect it gives is worth it.

SHELL EDGING

The stitches used with this type of technique are very similar to that of the fans found in the fan and shell section of this guide. Note you have to make sure that when you use this finishing stitch that you have enough length on your project for the number of shells you want. If there is not enough length, you may end up with gaps in your edging work. This edging works best with either square or rectangular projects.

-Begin by doing a row of single crochet all around the project; this will form the foundation of the shells.

-Turn your work and slip stitch into the first stitch, *skip 2 stitches then put 5 double crochets into the next stitch, skip 2 more stitches and slip stitch into the following stitch*.

-Repeat this pattern again and again until you have gone all the way around; when you come to the corners, turn the corners by slip stitching round them then carrying on with the provided steps.

CHAPTER 9: SPECIAL STITCHES

This final section will focus on some of the more bizarre, less well known and difficult crochet stitches. Note that some of these stitches (especially the broomstick lace) require additional items to create them so be sure to check if the stitch you want to work requires something extra.

LOOP STITCH

The loop stitch is a funky type of stitch that adds a great amount of character to any project you use it with. The stitch itself is nothing more than a single crochet with an extra step thrown in to make the stitch possible.

The main uses of this stitch are to create hats that look like they have hair. This is a method to create the popular cabbage patch hat that has recently gained popularity. It is also a preferred stitch for baby boots and shoes.

-Start with a row of stitches of your choice; the amount does not matter as this stitch does not use sets of stitches. Begin by inserting your crochet hook through the stitch, instead of yarning over, hook around both sides of the yarn you are holding.

-Next, bring both of these pieces through the stitch, but not all the way, this should leave a small loop on the opposite side of your work. From here you can pull in the yarn you pulled through to adjust the size of the loop, yarn over and pull through all loops on your hook.

-Repeat these steps in each stitch on your work for an excellent effect!

CHEVRON STITCH

The chevron stitch, like a few stitches within this guide, makes use of basic stitches to create a beautiful effect within your work. The chevron stitch uses increases and decreases at regular intervals to make your work bend into a chevron-like pattern after just 1 row. A popular effect with this stitch is to do every row in a different color to accentuate the chevron pattern. This stitch be used on its own for an entire project or as a border for completed projects if worked correctly.

A basic full-sized chevron is worked in multiples of 14 plus an extra 2 for turning.

-Begin with your starting chain, skip the first 2 chains and double crochet into the next chain, *1 double crochet into the next 3 chains, double crochet 3 together 2 times, 1 double crochet into the next 3 chains, put 3 double crochet into the next chain twice* repeat this pattern to the end of the row ending with 3 regular double crochets.

-Chain 3 and turn your work, 2 double crochet into the first stitch, *1 double crochet in the next 3 stitches, double crochet 3 together twice, 1 double crochet in the next 3 stitches, 3 double crochet into the next stitch twice* repeat this pattern to the ending with 3 regular double crochet.

-Repeat this pattern to create your chevrons.

BROOMSTICK LACE

The broomstick lace is a type of stitch that is one of the more interesting ones available to you. The stitch itself is actually remarkably easy considering how difficult it looks.

For this stitch, you will need a regular crochet hook, regular yarn and most importantly either a broom handle (as the name suggests), a large knitting needle or anything else that is round in nature. You can also use cardboard if you do not have any of the suggested items.

-To begin, chain 21 (this will give you set of 4 broomstick lace stitches), single crochet into the 2nd chain from the hook and into every chain on your foundation, once you reach the end do not turn your work!

-Now take your broom handle or whatever you are using, for this tutorial we are using a large crochet hook. Draw up a loop and put this loop onto the second hook, take your crochet hook and insert it into the next stitch along, draw up another loop and put this on the hook, carry on in this fashion until you reach the end of the row, you should have 20 loops on the hook.

-Once the final loop is on the hook, carefully slide the loops off of the hook; make sure not to pull on the yarn to much! Now take your crochet hook and insert it through 5 loops.

-Yarn over and pull through these 5 loops and chain 1 to secure it, you now want to work 5 single crochets through the center of those 5 loops.

-Once complete go through another 5 loops and repeat the above process till you reach the end of the row, you should have 4 sets of broomstick lace at this point, instead of turning your work start drawing up loops from the single crochets you created in each 5 loop set to start the next row.

And you’re done! Yes, it may look complicated, and it can get a little fiddly but the result that it gives is a great addition to your stitch knowledge!

CHAPTER 10: CONVERSION CHARTS

This section will provide you with a few charts to help you identify hook sizes and abbreviations within your work or patterns if there are terms or abbreviations you do not understand it will be here as well as a conversion chart for hook sizes.

HOOK CONVERSION CHART

Every hook size required for patterns are listed by their size in millimeters, however you may only know these hooks by the letters that they come in. Below is a handy chart showing both the numbers and letters that accompany each hook to help you identify what ones you need.

STITCH ABBREVIATIONS

Although this book does not use stitch abbreviations within the content to keep things easy to understand, when writing your own patterns or crocheting from someone else’s you may come across terms you do not recognize. The chart below shows some common crochet terms in their US form.

OTHER BOOKS BY THIS AUTHOR

Please visit http://goo.gl/8DO96i to discover other books by Emily Nelson.

“Crochet Patterns Beginners Guide”

“Crochet Stitches Beginners Guide”

“Crochet Beginners Guide”