Knitting: Box Set: The Complete Comprehensive Guide on Knitting
Author: Wilters, Susan
Date: 2014-12-19T05:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Knitting for Beginners

Table of Contents

Chapter One: Needles and Equipment for Beginners

Chapter Two – Yarn Basics for Beginners

Chapter Three – How to Read a Pattern

Chapter Four – Basic Knitting Stitches

Chapter Five – How to Work with Color for Beginners

Chapter Six – Patterns for Beginning Knitters

Image Attributions

Chapter One – How to Use Graph or Chart Patterns

Chapter Two – Intarsia Knitting

Chapter Three – Fair Isle Knitting

Chapter Four – Advance Stitches and Techniques

Chapter Five – Fun Yarns

Attributions and Resources

Chapter One – Expert Techniques

Chapter Two – Lace

Chapter Three – Entrelac Knitting

Chapter Four – Expert Garment Tips

Patterns

Attributions and Resources

Knitting: Box Set: The Complete Comprehensive Guide on Knitting

Susan Wilters

(2014)

Tags: Knitting for Beginners

Knitting for Beginnersttt

Knitting for Beginners

Thank you for purchasing this book. If you are interested in learning how to knit from square one, this is the book for you. We will learn all about the equipment, yarn, and techniques you need to learn to become a knitter. Don’t worry if you don’t know anything about knitting. I wrote this book with the absolute beginner in mind with simple and easy to follow instructions. I’ve also included 10 fun and different basic patterns for you to try out to practice your skills. So with these things in mind let’s start!

Table of Contents

Chapter One: Needles and Equipment for Beginners

Chapter Two – Yarn Basics for Beginners

Chapter Three – How to Read a Pattern

Chapter Four – Basic Knitting Stitches

Chapter Five – How to Work with Color for Beginners

Chapter Six – Patterns for Beginning Knitters

Image Attributions

Chapter One: Needles and Equipment for Beginners

The first step we’ll take is to learn about the various types of needles, what they are used for, and the proper way to use them. Next we’ll move onto some basic equipment you should have to start out knitting. You don’t have to spend a lot of money to start out, but try to purchase good quality needles and equipment right off the bat. They will perform well for you and last for many years if you take care of them properly.

Straight Needles

Most people think of straight needles when someone mentions knitting. They come in sets of two and one needle holds the stitches while you work the stitches off of that needle with the other one. Straight needles can be used for many projects and when you use straight needles it is known as flat knitting. You work rows back and forth with straight needles. When you reach the end of a row you turn your work and then knit back across the row.

The most commonly used size is US size 8, but straight needles come in a wide variety of sizes from very small used in lace knitting to very large which are used for bulky yarns. Straight needles also come in different lengths. Most patterns call for 10 or 14 inch straight needles.

One end of the needle is called the knot and keeps the stitches securely on the needle as you knit. The center is the shaft which tapers down to the point. Straight needles can be made from aluminum, steel, bamboo, or wood. For the beginner a nice set of 14 inch size 8 and size 10 straight needles are a good investment.

Circular Needles

Circular needles are used to knit large projects such as Afghans and for knitting in the round. Circular needles have straight points joined by a section of plastic or wire in various lengths. As you work the stitches rest on the section between the needles and you usually don’t turn your work as you reach the end of a row.

When knitting in the round the right side of your work is always facing you. Circular needles come in the same sizes as straight needles, but they come in various lengths. For example the points on a US size 8 circular needle are the same as the corresponding straight needles.

But you may need a shorter or longer circular needle depending on the project you are working on. You would use longer circular needles for a large project like an Afghan, but for projects such as hats smaller needles would be more appropriate. Check the pattern before you begin to make sure you have the correct size before you begin to knit. You can also find sets which have various lengths of plastic and detachable point which come in a variety of sizes. These are a good investment if you like to knit in the round.

Use this handy chart for conversions from Imperial, Metric, and US needle sizes. Patterns reference all three types, so use this to tell what size of needle you need.

Double Point Needles

Double point needles are used to knit in the round on small projects such as socks and baby hats. They come in sets of at least three. When you knit with double point needles one needle is always the working needle while the stitches rest on the remaining needles. For example if you are using five double point needles four of them would have stitches resting on them while one of them is used to knit the stitches off the needles. As you knit the stitches transfer from one needle to the other. Double point needles can be made from wood, aluminum, bamboo, and other materials. Some are quite decorative and pretty.

Cable Needles

Cable needles are used to hold the stitches needed to create one leg of a cable. Cables are very easy to use once you understand how to knit with them, and although some brave souls will knit without cable needles, I highly recommend you use them as a beginner. Even advanced knitters rely on cable needles to help them create the lovely cable patterns you see on sweaters and other projects. Cable needles can be curved or straight. Curved needles are best for beginners since they hold the stitches more securely. They can be made of a variety of materials such as bamboo, aluminum or wood.

Stitch Markers

Almost all patterns have some sort of pattern repeat. When you are knitting across a row, or knitting in the round, you need to keep track of where these repeats start and stop. This is where you use stitch markers. Stitch markers can be slipped onto your needles and transferred along as you work, or they can be clip on. You can even use a paper clip or a contrasting color of yarn in a pinch. I’ve been known to do that quite often since I have a bad habit of misplacing my stitch markers.

As you can see in the picture the stitch markers show where the cable pattern begins and ends. As you knit you would simply slip the stitch markers onto the right needle each time to come to it. When you are knitting in the round you would use a stitch marker to show where the new round begins. Once you join your knitting it is impossible to tell where the new round starts and the old round ends. Get in the habit of using stitch markers; they make your life so much easier.

Row Counter

A row counter is another handy little tool. Not only do you need to keep track of pattern repeats, but you need to know what row you are on as you knit. You can use a pencil or a pen and make hash markers or write down the row number as you knit. But using a row counter is faster and an easy way to keep track of which row you are knitting. There are several different styles of row counters from hand held clickers to small round plastic tools which fit onto your needle.

Miscellaneous Tools

Besides the previous tools I mentioned you also need a good quality pair of shears (scissors), a blunt tapestry or yarn needle. You also need a way to store your yarn and supplies. When you’re just starting out a cute bag is a choice. A covered bin is also a good way to store your yarn and supplies and keep them safe. I have to keep my stuff in a big plastic tub with a lid to prevent my cats from getting my yarn and having a party. A good light source is also important. Look into full spectrum lights. These lights are easy on the eyes and you see the true colors of your yarn.

Chapter Two – Yarn Basics for Beginners

In this chapter we’ll learn about the different types of fibers used to make yarn, how yarn is made, and how to read a yarn label. Yarn is made from three types of fibers: animal, plant, and synthetic. Yarn also comes in different weights. Size zero is considered fingerling yarn and is used for very delicate work and to create lace. Most baby items are created with weight size three. The most common weights used are four and five. These medium weight yarns are used to create garments, Afghans, and home accessories. Bulky and super bulky yarns use size five and six. These yarns work up quickly and create a plush soft fabric used for many items.

You can also find yarns in many different textures. Some yarns have nubby areas which work up to give your projects a lot of texture and interest. Sequins and jewels are also added to yarns to create decorative effects. Mesh yarn with lace, sequins, and metallic accents are used to create pretty lacey scarves, shawls, and as accents on projects. There are too many types and brands of yarns to cover in this book and part of the fun of learning to knit is discovering all of the different yarns available. Most knitters become quite enamored with yarn and collect large stashes.

As a beginner I would suggest you choose a nice inexpensive acrylic yarn. This type of yarn is easy to work with, has a bit of give, and can be machine washed and dried. Many projects worked with acrylic yarn do not need to be blocked making it very easy to care for. While there are some very pretty and expensive artisan yarns, save those for later when you are more experienced and skilled at knitting.

Acrylic and Synthetic Yarn

Acrylic yarn uses petroleum based fibers to create the most familiar and popular type of yarn for knitting. Acrylic fibers arrive at the yarn factory in large bales. It is then cleaned and spun several times to create yarn. Acrylic yarn comes in many different colors and color variations. It also comes in several different weights from fingerling to super bulky. Red Heart Super Saver, Lion Brand Heartland, and Caron Simply Soft are all examples of acrylic yarn. Each one is made with acrylic fibers, but has a bit of a different texture and sheen. Acrylic yarn is very versatile and can be spun to resemble animal and plant fibers.

Other synthetic yarns include polyester, nylon, and other synthetic fibers. These fibers are usually blended into acrylic or wool to create different textures and effects. Microfiber is used with other types of fibers to create sport and summer garments. It is light and gives the knitted fabric stretch and breathability.

Animal Fibers

Wool is the most well-known animal fiber used to create yarn. Wool fibers are from the wool sheared from sheep. Wool gives you a soft spongy fabric that is very warm and strong. Bales of wool arrive at the factory and are cleaned and combed. The fibers are then spun into yarn which can range from very fine to super bulky.

Wool can be dyed into all sorts of colors and color variations. A nice quality wool yarn is another good choice for beginning knitters since it is easy to work with and fairly easy to care for. Most wool yarns need to be blocked and are not suited to machine drying, but the end product is soft, strong, and warm.

Alpaca yarn comes from the animal with the same name. It has a nice drape and is a bit shinier than wool. It is very soft to the touch and comes in many different colors. Mohair comes from fibers sheared from goats and comes in very vivid colors. It is a very strong yarn and is a popular choice for garments. Coarse mohair comes from older goats, while very soft mohair comes from younger goats.

Cashmere is sheared from the underbellies of a particular species of goat. It is very soft and luxurious. Cashmere yarn can be a bit pricey, and it can’t be machine washed and dried, but it is worth every penny. Angora yarn is another luxurious and is sheared from the fur of the Angora bunny. Angora yarn produces very soft garments with a lovely drape. Like cashmere it does require special handing when washed to retain their shape.

Plant Fibers

Cotton, bamboo, hemp, and linen are all plant fibers used to create yarn. These yarns create very strong fabrics and are perfect for kitchen and bath items as well as summer garments. Cotton yarn can be a bit stiff to work with, but it is unsurpassed for knitting dishcloths and washcloths. Bamboo is very similar to cotton yarn and is often used as an accent yarn for cotton pieces. A fabric made with bamboo yarn has a bit of a shine, and is very soft. Bamboo yarn is often blended with silk and gives you excellent stitch definition when you use it for knitting. It is softer than cotton, but can be a bit slippery until you get used to knitting with it.

Hemp yarn is made from fibers from the hemp plant. This yarn is very strong and comes in many natural colors. Hemp yarn is a good alternative to cotton or bamboo and creates a very durable fabric. Linen comes from the fibers of the flax plant. It is very similar to cotton yarn and is perfect for summer garments. Fabric knitted using linen yarn breathes and wicks away moisture. Many projects using plant fibers can be machine washed and dried. You may have to block garments knitted from plant fibers so that they retain their shape. Blocking will also help to expose the definition in your stitches.

Chart of Yarn Weights

Use this handy chart of categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes from the Craft Yarn Council to understand the different weights of yarn and what they are used for. This chart also gives you the suggested needle sizes to use for each weight class.

Yarn Weight Symbol

& Category Names

Type of

Yarns in

Category

Fingering

10-count

crochet

thread

Sock,

Fingering,

Baby

Sport,

Baby

DK,

Light

Worsted

Worsted,

Afghan,

Aran

Chunky,

Craft,

Rug

Bulky,

Roving

Knit Gauge

Range* in

Stockinette

Stitch to 4 inches

33–40**

sts

27–32

sts

23–26

sts

21–24

st

16–20

sts

12–15

sts

6–11

sts

Recommended

Needle in

Metric Size

Range

1.5–2.25

mm

2.25—

3.25

mm

3.25—

3.75

mm

3.75—

4.5

mm

4.5—

5.5

mm

5.5—

8

mm

8 mm

and

larger

Recommended

Needle U.S.

Size Range

000–1

1 to 3

3 to 5

5 to 7

7 to 9

9 to 11

11

and

larger

Crochet Gauge*

Ranges in

Single Crochet

to 4 inch

32–42

double

crochets**

21–32

sts

16–20

sts

12–17

sts

11–14

sts

8–11

sts

5–9

sts

Recommended

Hook in Metric

Size Range

Steel***

1.6–1.4

mm

2.25—

3.5

mm

3.5—

4.5

mm

4.5—

5.5

mm

5.5—

6.5

mm

6.5—

9

mm

9

mm and

larger

Recommended

Hook U.S.

Size Range

Steel***

6, 7, 8

Regular

hook B–1

B–1

to

E–4

E–4

to

7

7

to

I–9

I–9

to

K–10 1⁄2

K–10 1⁄2 to

M–13

M–13

and

larger

Understanding a Yarn Label

Before you choose a yarn for a knitting project, check the pattern and see what type of yarn and the weight the pattern calls for. The weight of your yarn and the size of your needles will affect how close your final project matches the pattern. In order for you to pick the correct yarn it is important for you to understand the information found on a yarn label. Most of the symbols used on yarn labels are standardized so even if you find a yarn created in another country you may still be able to read the basic information on the yarn’s label.

The following chart from Lion Brand Yarns is a handy reference for you to refer to when selecting yarn. My suggestion is to go to the link in the Attributions section in the back of this book and print this chart out. Then you can take it with you when you go yarn shopping.

Machine Wash, Normal

Machine Wash, Cold

Machine Wash, Cold

Machine Wash, Warm

Machine Wash, Warm

Machine Wash, Hot

Machine Wash, Hot

Machine Wash, Hot

Machine Wash, Hot

Machine Wash, Hot

Machine Wash, Hot

Machine Wash, Hot

Machine Wash, Permanent Press

Machine Wash, Gentle or Delicate

Hand Wash

Hand Wash, Cold

Hand Wash, Warm

Hand Wash, Hot

Do Not Wash

Dryclean

Dryclean, Any Solvent

Dryclean, Petroleum Solvent Only

Dryclean, Any Solvent Except Trichloroethylene

Dryclean, Short Cycle

Dryclean, Reduced Moisture

Dryclean, Low Heat

Dryclean, No Steam

Do Not Dryclean

Bleach When Needed

Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed

Do Not Bleach

Tumble Dry, Normal

Tumble Dry, Normal, Low Heat

Tumble Dry, Normal, Medium Heat

Tumble Dry, Normal, High Heat

Tumble Dry, Normal, No Heat

Tumble Dry, Permanent Press

Tumble Dry, Gentle

Do Not Tumble Dry

Do Not Dry

Line Dry

Drip Dry

Dry Flat

Dry In Shade

Do Not Wring

Iron, Any Temperature, Steam or Dry

Iron, Low

Iron, Medium

Iron, High

Do Not Steam

Do Not Iron

In the example below you can see the yarn is a medium, weight size 4, yarn. To obtain the correct gauge you should use US size 8 (5mm) knitting needles. The yarn can be machine washed as long as it is not above 104 degrees and can be tumble dried on low. So if you were to knit a garment using this yarn it would be very easy to care for.

Chapter Three – How to Read a Pattern

Before we start on the actual stitches you will need to learn in order to knit, we need to cover how to read a knitting pattern. The pattern will tell you many thing s about the project including the correct needle size, the gauge, the type and weight of yarn to use, and any special stitches or abbreviations used in the pattern. Before you start a pattern take the time to look it over carefully so that you understand what you need to complete it and if there are any stitches you need to practice. Patterns are a great way to increase your skills and if you find a pattern that is a bit above your current skill level, go ahead and try it. You may be pleasantly surprised and find out that you have just taken the next step in your knitting skill level.

For our example we’ll be using a free Red Heart pattern, Easy Knit Scarf. First you will see the pattern brand and the designer. On Red Heart patterns they also give you the difficulty, this pattern is rated easy and can be done by beginning knitters.

Next look at the section tell you the yarn and supplies you’ll need to complete the pattern. For this pattern you will need 3 balls of Red Heart’s Vivid yarn in Powerful Pink and Black. You will also need a pair of US size 19 (15.5mm) straight needles, and a yarn needle to weave in the tails once you’re done.

Gauge is important when working a pattern. Always do a swatch for the gauge. This is a 4 inch by 4 inch piece of fabric using the yarn and recommended needles. If your swatch is too large either tighten up your tension or use a smaller needle. If it is too small loosen your tension or use a larger needle size.

For this pattern you will see 5.5 stitches and 9 rows equal 4 inches. This means once you knit your gauge swatch you should have 5.5 stitches across 4 inches, and 9 rows in 4 inches.

Check for any abbreviations used in the pattern. Most abbreviations are standardized, but some pattern designers may use different ones. Be sure you understand the abbreviations used in the pattern you have chosen.

Finally we come to the actual pattern. If you are flat knitting with straight needles the pattern will be written in rows. For knitting in the round the rows are called (appropriately enough) rounds. As you can see the pattern also tells you how large the scarf should be once you are finished.

When you’re done you’ll have a simple but very nice scarf to wear.

The next example we’ll cover is for a hat knitted in the round from Lion Brand Yarns. This will give you a chance to see how a pattern knitted in the round differs from a flat knitting project. There really isn’t much difference, but I want you to be sure you know how to read different manufacturer and designer’s patterns.

This pattern is the Woodstock Slouch Hat by Lion Brand and it is knitting on double point needles. First we see the skill level, the size, and the finished size. There are no corrections for this pattern, and you can buy the materials right off the Lion Brand site.

Next check the gauge. If you knit a 4 inch by 4 inch swatch you should have 16 stitches and 20 rounds in your swatch.

This hat is worked with a pattern repeat. The next section tells you what stitches are in the pattern repeat and how to work them. Rounds 1 through 8 make the stitch pattern repeat for the hat. When you see * in a pattern this means a repeat is beginning. The next * is the end of the pattern. So for this pattern you would knit 3 and then purl 3, and then repeat this pattern through the entire round on rounds 1, 2, 3, and 4. For rounds 5, 6, 6, and 8 the pattern repeat changes to purl 3, and knit 3. You would repeat the pattern for rounds 1 through 8 the specified number of times in the pattern.

This is very important information for you to understand. If you’re not sure how to work the pattern repeats, practice with some yarn and needles until you are comfortable working the stitches. This section also has notes about how to knit the pattern so that your project comes out correctly.

First you work the hat pattern and then you add the edging. In order to add the edging you pick up the stitches from the lower edge of the hat onto your needles and use these stitches to knit the edging. The hat is worked from the bottom edge to the top, so when you pick up the edging stitches you simply put the point of your needle under the stitches on the edge and place them onto your needle.

You will need 1 ball of Lion Brand Landscapes yarn in Sand Dune and 1 ball of Lion Brand Pelt in Mink to complete this pattern. You will also need a set of 5 double point size 10.5 (6mm) needles and a tapestry needle to weave in your ends.

Check what abbreviations are used in the pattern. Be sure you understand them and know how to work the stitches that may be listed. (The stitch k2tog is used to decrease to make the top of the hat smaller. We’ll cover this stitch in the next chapter as well as the basic knit and purl stitches.)

Now we come to the actual pattern. As you can see when you knit on double point needles you cast on the correct amount of stitches onto the first needle and since you use 5 needles to knit this hat, distribute the stitches evenly on 4 of the needles. You use a stitch marker at the beginning of a round so you tell when a round ends and a new one begins. Work the pattern exactly as written and you will have a pretty hat when you are finished.

Pattern Abbreviations and Symbols

Pattern designers use abbreviations to save time and space when writing out patterns. They also use symbols so that the patterns are not so long and confusing to read. Here is a chart from the Craft Yarn Council you can use to refer to when reading and understanding patterns. You can go to the link I have listed in the back of this book and print this out for a handy reference.

Knitting Abbreviations Master List

Following is a list of knitting abbreviations used by yarn industry designers and publishers. The most commonly used abbreviations are highlighted. In addition, designers and publishers may use special abbreviations in a pattern, which you might not find on this list. Generally, a definition of special abbreviations is given at the beginning of a book or pattern.

Abbreviation

Description

Abbreviation

Description

[ ]

work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

pat(s)

or patt

pattern(s)

( )

work instructions within parentheses in the place directed

pm

place marker

* *

repeat instructions following the asterisks as directed

pop

popcorn

*

repeat instructions following the single asterisk as directed

p2tog

purl 2 stitches together

"

inch(es)

prev

previous

alt

alternate

psso

pass slipped stitch over

approx

approximately

pwise

purlwise

beg

begin/beginning

rem

remain/remaining

bet

between

rep

repeat(s)

BO

bind off

rev St st

reverse stockinette stitch

CA

color A

RH

right hand

CB

color B

rnd(s)

round(s)

CC

contrasting color

RS

right side

cm

centimeter(s)

sk

skip

cn

cable needle

skp

slip, knit, pass stitch over—one stitch decreased

CO

cast on

sk2p

slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over the knit 2 together;

2 stitches have been decreased

cont

continue

sl

slip

dec

decrease/

decreases/

decreasing

sl1k

slip 1 knitwise

dpn

double pointed needle(s)

sl1p

slip 1 purlwise

fl

front loop(s)

sl st

slip stitch(es)

foll

follow/follows/

following

ss

slip stitch (Canadian)

g

gram

ssk

slip, slip, knit these 2 stiches together—a decrease

inc

increase/increases/

increasing

sssk

slip, slip, slip, knit 3 stitches together

k or K

knit

st(s)

stitch(es)

k2tog

knit 2 stitches together

St st

stockinette stitch/stocking stitch

kwise

knitwise

tbl

through back loop

LH

left hand

tog

together

lp(s)

loop(s)

WS

wrong side

m

meter(s)

wyib

with yarn in back

M1

make one stitch

wyif

with yarn in front

M1 p-st

make one purl stitch

yd(s)

yard(s)

MC

main color

yfwd

yarn forward

mm

millimeter(s)

yo

yarn over

oz

ounce(s)

yrn

yarn around needle

p or P

purl

yon

yarn over needle

Chapter Four – Basic Knitting Stitches

All knitting, no matter how complicated, is a combination of knit and purl stitches. How you hold your yarn, which direction you yarn over, decreasing and increasing, and slip stitches are combined with knit and purl stitches to create all knitting pattern repeats. First we need to learn how to cast the stitches onto the needles. Next we’ll learn how to cast them off, and then how to knit and purl. We’ll be making a couple of swatches to practice so gather up a medium weight (weight size 4) yarn (Red Heart Super Saver is a good choice), a pair of US size 8 (5mm) straight needles, 2 stitch markers, a pair of shears, and a blunt tapestry needle.

I have included video links at the end of the chapter to help illustrate the techniques we’ll cover in this chapter. I encourage you to watch them to actually see how the techniques and stitches are performed.

Ready? Okay let’s learn to knit!

Casting On

There are a few easy ways to cast stitches onto your needle. One of the easiest ways is to knit the stitches on.

First make a knot and slip it onto the left needle. This becomes your first stitch.

Now insert the tip of the right needle into the first stitch as shown and bring the yarn up and over the right needle from the back to the front wrapping the yarn around the needle. The yarn should end up in the back of your work.

With your right pointer finger pull the yarn to tighten it, but not too tight. Pull the right needle towards you and out from below the left needle with the yarn wrapped on the right needle. Pull it up and through the center stitch of the left needle. Pull the tip of the right needle towards the tip of the left needle and pull the yarn through the stitch on the left needle. The yarn will then be a loop on the right needle and your second stitch. Transfer this stitch back over to the left needle and repeat the process.

It may take some time for this action to feel natural. Don’t give up, remember to keep your yarn snug but not tight. You have to have enough play in it so that you can work with it, but not have it so loose it falls off the needle. Just keep practicing and you’ll get it.

Repeat this method of casting on until you have the correct number of stitches on your right needle.

You can also use the method called the long tail cast on. Instead of bringing yarn from the ball you use the tail of yarn which is left after you create a slip knot and place it on your needle. This method is also handy to learn for beginners. To determine how much of a tail you need to leave try casting on about 10 stitches, take them off your needle and unravel them, and measure how much yarn you used. Then approximate how much you will need for the number of stitches you need to cast on.

You won’t need two needles for the long tail cast on, only one. First make a slip knot and place it on the needle holding both ends of the yarn in your hand. Create a V shape by inserting your thumb and forefinger between the strands of yarn and pulling downwards. With the needle in your right hand bring the tip up through the loop created by your thumb, down through the loop on your finger and grab the yarn with the needle. Pull the needle down through the loop on your thumb and slip the loop off of your thumb. Tighten the stitch by bringing your thumb back under the loose strand of yarn to secure the stitch onto the needle. Repeat until you have the correct number of stitches.

Before we begin this section cast on 34 stitches onto your needle. You will use these stitches to practice making knit and purl stitches. Knit stitches are denoted by the letter “k” in patterns. For example if the pattern calls for k5, you would knit 5 stitches. Rows of knitting are called the Garter Stitch and you may see this term in patterns. All it means is that you do rows of knitting without any purl stitches. The purl stich is denoted in patterns by the letter “p”. If you see p5 in a pattern you would purl the next 5 stitches.

Alternating rows of knit and purl are called Stockinette or Stocking stitches. Many patterns use these terms interchangeable. You would knit one row, and then purl one row, alternating the rows as you knit.

English Method vs Continental Method

If you use the English method the yarn is controlled by your right hand and is “thrown” over the needles. The Continental method controls the yarn with the left hand and the yarn is “picked” from the left hand. Both methods produce the same stitches. Left hand knitters may find the Continental method feels better to them since the yarn is controlled by the left hand. I will use the English method of knitting in this book.

Okay are you ready to start your first practice swatch? Let’s begin. First cast on 34 stitches.

The Knit Stitch

With the knit stitch you pull the yarn over the right needle from behind your work. First insert the right needle into the front loop of the stitch on the left needle. Pull the yarn over the right needle from behind your work and pull the point of the right needle through the loop on the left needle catching the yarn. Transfer the stitch to the right needle. Repeat this process for the next 33 stitches and then turn your work.

Knit 4 more rows. Do not cut your yarn.

The Purl Stitch

You hold your yarn in the front of your work when creating the purl stitch. Pull your yarn from the back to the front in between the two needles. Insert the tip of the right needle into the back loop of the stitch on the left needle. Pull the yarn up and around the right needle, pull the point of the right needle through the stitch on the left needle catch the yarn and transfer the new stitch onto the right needle. Purl the remaining 33 stitches.

One you have 5 rows of knit stitches and 5 rows of purl stitches your fabric should look like the following examples. If you hold a tape measure up to the fabric 17 stitches should equal 4 inches. If the swatch is bigger tighten up your tension as you knit. If the swatch is smaller then you should loosen up your tension as you knit. A small difference in size is acceptable, but if there is a large difference adjusting your tension should take care of the problem. If not you may need to go up or down a needle size to obtain the correct gauge.

Purl 4 more rows. Co not cut your yarn. We’ll keep using this swatch to practice binding off.

Casting or Binding Off

Once you’ve completed knitting you need to get the project off your needles. There are a few methods to casting or binding off. Both terms mean the same things and you will see either term used interchangeably in patterns. Casting off is denoted by the letters “co”, and binding off is denoted by the letters “bo” in patterns.

The easiest method and one that gives you a nice edge is knitting off the last row. When you reach the last row of your project, turn your work and knit two stitches. Insert the left needle into the top of the first knit stitch and pull it over the second stitch and let it fall off your needle. Knit the next stitch and insert the left needle into the previous stitch and pull it over the stitch you just knit. Continue to do this until you get to the end of the row, cut the yarn, and pull the tail through the last stitch and pull it up snug.

Now you have a swatch of knitting that is 10 rows long and 34 stitches wide.

Homework Assignment for You

I have a homework assignment for you before we continue. Cast on another 34 stitches and knit one row, purl one row for 10 rows. Bind off your work and compare this fabric to the first swatch. Notice how the material looks and feels different. The second swatch is knitted in the Stockinette or Stocking stitch.

Now cast on another 34 stitches and knit one, purl one across the row. Turn your work continue to knit one purl one for 5 more rows. This is known as the seed stitch. This stitch repeat would look like this in a pattern:

Row 1: *k1, p1* rep across row

Rows 2-6: rep Row

Seed Stitch Hat

To create ribs alternate knit and purl stitches. For example do k2, p2 on the first row. Turn your work and p2, k2 on the second row. In a pattern it would look like this:

Row 1: *k2, p2* rep across row

Row 2: *p2, k2* rep across row

Rows 3-6: rep Rows 1 and 2

To make thicker ribs increase the knit and purl stitches. For example you could knit 4, purl 4 across the first row and then purl 4, and knit 4 across the second row. You would continue to alternate the rows until your fabric is the correct length. You can also use the stitch markers to mark where each rib begins if you need to keep track of this information.

Ribbing is commonly used to create cuffs for sleeves, collars, and to create decorative patterns in knitted fabric.

Rib Stitch Scarf

Slip Stitch

The slip stitch is used in many patterns. If can be used to create gaps for lace, to transfer a stitch from one needle to the next, and to create color work in projects. The stitch is slipped knitwise or purlwise. You slip the stitch like you were going to either knit or purl it without a yarn over. Insert the right needle into the stitch on the left needles and simply move it over to the right needle without yarning over.

Increasing

As you work patterns you will sometimes need to make the fabric larger. This is known as increasing. Three are three main methods you can use to increase.

The first method we’ll cover is known as knitting in the front and back loop. If you look at a stitch resting on the left needle you’ll see it has a front and back side of the loop on the needle. In this method you first knit into the front of the stitch, but you don’t slip the stitch onto the right needle. Next knit into the back loop of the stitch on the left stitch, and then slip both stitches onto the right needle. You have now increased your stitches by one.

The next method is known as making a stitch. You will see “make” or “M” in a pattern for this method. When you look at two stitches you will see a loop between them. Slip this loop onto your left needle and knit with it. You have just made a new stitch and increased your stitches by one.

The last method we’ll cover is known as the yarn over method. It is similar to making a stitch. You yarn over and knit as normal, but pass one loop onto the right needle without knitting it. On the next row you either knit or purl this loop as normal increasing your stitches by one.

Decreasing

An example of when you need to decrease is when you are making a hat from the edge up to the crown. If you continue to knit the fabric without decreasing the hat will be very bulky when you gather the top together to create the crown. Decreasing is very easy. You simply knit or purl two stitches together. Instead of inserting your right needle under just one stitch on the right needle, you insert it into two stitches and then knit or purl them as one. This will appear as “k2tog” or “p2tog” in a pattern.

Weaving in the Tails

Once you finish a project you will have tails of yarn you need to do something with, especially if you have used several color changes. Do not knot them and cut them. This weakens the fabric and creates unsightly knots and bumps on your work. Instead leave about six inches when you join a color or bind off and thread this tail into a tapestry needle. Weave the tail in and out of the stitches about four times, then turn your work and weave in and out of the stitches going the opposite direction. This creates a stronger fabric and guarantees the tails won’t work themselves out of the finished fabric.

Creating Cables

Cables are one of the trademark techniques used in knitting. Cables may be small and narrow or very wide and complex. Don’t be afraid of cables, they are really not hard once you understand how to knit them.

All cables have two legs. One leg is dominate and on top of the other leg. How you place the stitches resting on the cable needle determines if a cable leg is in the front or behind the other leg. When you are just starting out I would recommend you use curved cable needles. The stitches are more secure on curved cable needles, but in a pinch you can use a single double point needle for a cable needle.

In this example you can see that the entire cable consists of 10 stitches. Five stitches are used for each leg. To create the legs which are on top of the other legs transfer 5 stitches to a cable needle and hold them in the front of your work. Knit the next 5 stitches and then knit the 5 stitches off of your cable needle. For the next leg which will be underneath, transfer 5 stitches to a cable needle and hold them behind your work. Knit the next 5 stitches and then knit the stitches off of the cable needle.

Here are examples of how cable patterns look as charts. In the first example 4 stitches are used to form a cable; 2 per leg. In the second example 6 stitches form the cable; 3 per leg.

Video Links

The following videos will demonstrate how to perform the stitches and techniques we learned in this chapter. There are many more videos on YouTube for you to explore, and I would encourage you to check them out also.

How to Knit: Cast On by Lion Brand Yarns

How to Knit: Long Tail Cast On  by Lion Bran Yarns

English Style Knitting Compared to Continental Style Knitting by Elsteffo

Continental vs English Style Knitting by iknitwithcatfur

How to Knit – Brief Start to Finish Sample by iknitwithcatfur

(She uses the Continental style of knitting in this great video.)

How to Knit the Knit Stitch by Lion Brand Yarns

How to Knit the Purl Stitch by Lion Brand Yarns

How to Bind or Cast Off by Lion Brand Yarns

How to Increase: Knit in Front and Back by Lion Brand Yarns

How to Decrease: Knit or Purl 2 Together by Lion Brand Yarns

How to Knit the Cable 4 Back by New Stitch a Day

Chapter Five – How to Work with Color for Beginners

Color is fun to work with. I love color and incorporate many different colors in my projects. One of my favorite ways to incorporate color is to use a solid color and a matching variegated yarn. This creates a very pretty effect and gives a project a lot of interest.

In this chapter we’ll learn how to change colors at the beginning of a row, how to change colors in mid-row, and the difference between Intarsia and Fair Isle color works. We won’t go into detail about Intarsia and Fair Isle, but as a beginner I think it is important you understand at least the basic concepts.

Changing Color at the Start of a Row

Changing color at the start of a row is very easy. When you get to the end of the row of the old color, simply pick up the new color and start knitting. It is a good idea to capture the old color under a few stitches as you work with the new color to secure your stitches. You first few stitches will be loose so gently tug on them to snug them up. You can watch this video from New Stitch a Day to see this technique in action. This video from All Free Knitting is also a great reference.

Changing Color in Mid-Row

Changing color mid-row is not hard, either. Insert your needle into the next stitch, grab the new yarn and complete the stitch. You can also capture the old yarn under the stitches of the new yarn to lock it into place. You may have to snug up the first few stitches, but don’t pull so tightly the fabric puckers. Leisure Arts has a great video demonstrating how to change colors in mid-row.

Intarsia versus Fair Isle

Intarsia uses color changes to create pictures and patterns in a fabric of knitting. Before you begin an Intarsia project you would wind the various colors you need onto spools or bobbins. As you work across the rows you pick up or drop the colors called for in the pattern. The yarn is not carried across the back of the work, but is dropped and rests on the bobbins awaiting your return back across the row.

In Fair Isle color work the unused colors are carried across the back of your work. They do not rest on bobbins, but as you drop the old color you would carry it across the back of the stitches of the new color until you need it again. Normally you don’t carry yarn more than three or four stitches to prevent tangling and weakening the fabric.  Fair Isle knitting creates intricate and beautiful designs in hats, sweaters, accessories and many other projects.

Choosing Colors

When you are choosing colors for your projects it is handy to know a bit about color theory. The three colors which are not created by being mixed with other colors are yellow, red, and blue. These are known as primary colors. When you mix two primary colors together you get secondary colors. These include green, orange, and purple. The colors between secondary and primary colors are known as tertiary colors. These include blue-green or teal, violet and violet-red, and red-orange.

If two colors are on opposite sides of the color wheel they are known as contrasting colors. These colors are good choices for a vibrant color scheme. Colors also come in color families and are the different shades of a primary color. Examples would include blue, light blue, navy, blue/green, and pastel blue. Colors can also be grouped as cool and warm. Cool colors include blue, purple, blue-green, teal, and gray. Warm colors include red, orange, yellow, brown, and beige. Black and white are considered neutral colors and create stunning effects when used in conjunction with other colors.

Here is an example of a color wheel used by artists and crafters to help them choose the colors for their projects.

Chapter Six – Patterns for Beginning Knitters

Now that we’ve covered the basics for beginners and made a few swatches to practice it is now time to put your new skills to the test. Well not a test really, but it’s time to put your new skills to work. I guess that’s a better way of putting it. The patterns I have selected are all free on the internet and I’ve made every effort to choose patterns you can work easily. My advice to you is to start out with small projects. These projects help to increase your confidence and give you a sense of accomplishment. I hate to see new knitters tackle a large project like an Afghan. Many of them get bored or frustrated and give up in the middle of their project. While making Afghans is fine for the new knitter, please try out some smaller projects first.

I have several works in progress going on at one time. You may find this is a fun way to work on a larger project. If you get bored with it, set it down and start a new smaller project. There’s no limit to how many works in progress you can have, and I know many knitters have several going on all at once. So don’t hesitate to start a new pattern that catches your eye, you can go back to your other projects when you’re ready.

When possible I have given the original designer the credit for the pattern. All of the images come from the pattern link I give with each pattern. Red Heart, Lion Brand Yarns, Bernat, AllFreeKnitting, and Ravelry are great places to explore and find free and paid patterns. You can also find a very handy stitch dictionary at New Stitch a Day. Also check out YouTube for some great knitting channels. I like iknitwithcatfur for her simple and easy to follow style. She also has a blog, Sapphires n Pearls, where she posts tutorials and will answer your questions. Be sure to check out Facebook and Pinterest for groups to join and inspiration.

Okay, are you ready? Here are some fun and easy patterns for you to explore.

Button Up Pillow Cover

Pattern Link: http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/button-chair-pillow

Designed by Cindy Craig for Red Heart would make a great addition to any décor. The pattern looks more complicated than it really is. It combines k2tog, knit, and purl stitches to create an interesting pattern. When completed the pillow measures 16 inches square.

You will need 1 skein of Red Heart Super Saver in 3941 Chili, US size F-10 (6mm) knitting needles, a yarn needle, and 5, 7/8 inch buttons, and a 16 inch pillow form.

The gauge is 13 stitches equal 4inces (10 cm), and 21 rows equal 4 inches (10 cm) in Pattern stitch.

Pillow

Cast on 52 stitches.

Knit 8 rows.

Begin Pattern

Row 1 (Right Side): K2, *yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K2, *k2tog, yo; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.

Row 4: Purl.

Row 5: K2, *yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.

Rows 6-8: Knit.

Repeat Rows 1-8 for Pattern stitch until piece measures 32” [81cm] from beginning, end with Row 6.

Buttonhole Row: K7, bind off 2 stitches, *knit until 7 stitches have been worked, bind off 2 stitches; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to end – 5 buttonholes.

Next Row: Knit across, casting on 2 stitches above bind-off stitches of previous row.

Knit 3 rows.

Bind off.

FINISHING

Overlap buttonhole edge over cast-on edge so piece measures 16 inch square. Sew side edges. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes. Weave in ends. Insert pillow form.

Fairfield Cowl

Pattern Link: http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/L40359.html

This really cute Fairfield Cowl designed by Teresa Chorzepa for Lion Brand Yarn is easy and quick to knit up. The pattern uses Lion Brand Hometown yarn in Albuquerque Orange, but this yarn comes in many pretty colors. When completed the cowl will measure about 28 inches (71 cm) in circumference and will be about 10 inches (25.5 cm) high.

You will need 2 balls of Lion Brand Hometown yarn in your choice of color, size 13 (9mm) needles, and a yarn needle.

The gauge is 8 stitches equal about 4 inches (10 cm) in pattern.

Cowl

Cast on 57 sts.

Row 1: *Knit 2, purl 2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, knit 2, purl 1.

Repeat Row 1 until about 2 yd. (2 m) of yarn remains.

Bind off, but do not cut yarn.

Finishing

Thread yarn end into blunt needle and sew sides of Cowl together for about 6 inches (15 cm), leaving remaining 4 inches (10 cm) unsewn for slit.

Weave in ends.

Ribbed Knit Hat

Pattern Link: http://www.yarnspirations.com/patterns/ribbed-hat-198131.html

This is a pattern you can knit up to make hats for your entire family. Let each family member choose his or her favorite color and go to it. The pattern is written for the smallest size (4-6 years) with other sizes in parenthesis. It uses Caron United medium weight acrylic yarn which means these hats can be tossed into the washer and dryer.

You will need 1 skein of Caron United yarn in the color of your choice and US size 8 (5mm) knitting needles.

Gauge is 17 stitches and 23 rows equal 4inces in stocking stitch.

Cast on 57 (65-81-97) stitches.

1st row: (RS). *K1. P1. Repeat from * to last stitch K1.

2nd row: *P1. K1. Repeat from * to last stitch P1.

Repeat last 2 rows (K1. P1) ribbing until work from beg measures 7 (7½-8½-9)" [18(19-21.5-23) cm], ending on a 2nd row.

Shape top: 1st row: (RS). *K1. P3tog. (K1. P1) twice. Repeat from * to last stitch K1. 43 (49-61-73) stitch remain

2nd and alt rows: *P1. K1. Repeat from * to last stitch P1.

3rd row: *K1. P3tog. K1. P1. Repeat from * to last stitch K1. 29 (33-41-49) stitches remain

5th row: *K1. P3tog. Repeat from * to last stitch K1. 15 (17-21-25) stitches remain

7th row: *K2tog. Repeat from * to last stitch K1. 8 (9-11-13) stitches remain

Break yarn, leaving a long end. Draw end tightly through rem stitches. Sew center back seam.

Cabled E-Reader Cozy

Pattern Link: http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/cabled-e-reader-cozy

This really cute and useful e-reader cozy designed by Jodi Lewanda for Red Heart helps you practice your cable skills. Don’t be intimidated by this pattern. Once you get into the swing of it you will discover how much fun cables are to create. Cozy will measure 6 inches (15 cm) wide by 10 inches (25 cm) long when completed.

You will need 1 skein of Red Heart With Love in 1252 Mango, US size 7 (4.5mm) knitting needles, US size G (4mm) crochet hook, a cable needle, a tapestry needle, and a 1 ¾ inch toggle button.

Gauge is 25 stitches and 26 rows equal 4inches (10 cm) in Cable Stitch.

Pattern Notes: Special Stitches M1 = Make 1 (Increase) – Lift strand between needles to left-hand needle and knit strand through the back loop, twisting the stitch to prevent a hole in the fabric.

Cable (uses 4 stitches) – Slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, K2 from the left needle, K2 from the cable needle.

Body

Cast on 32 sts.

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2 (Right side): Knit across.

Row 3 (Increase row): K2, (M1, K5) across: 38 sts.

Row 4: K1, (P1, K4) across to last 2 sts, P1, K1.

Row 5: P1, (K1, P4) across to last 2 sts, K1, P1.

Row 6: K1, (P1, work Cable) across to last 2 sts, P1, K1.

Row 7: P1, (K1, P4) across to last 2 sts, K1, P1.

Repeat Rows 4-7 for pattern until Body measures approximately 9¼” (24 cm) from cast on edge, ending by working Row 4.

Turning Ridge (wrong side): Knit.

Beginning with Row 4, repeat rows 4-7 until Body measures approximately 19½” (49.5 cm)

from cast on edge, ending by working a Row 4.

Repeat Turning Ridge.

Flap

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2 (Right side): K1, (P1, K4) across to last 2 stitches, P1, K1.

Row 3: P1, (K1, P4) across to last 2 stitches, K1, P1.

Row 4: K1, (P1, work Cable) across to last 2 stitches, P1, K1.

Row 5: P1, (K1, P4) across to last 2 stitches, K1, P1.

Rows 6-21: Repeat Rows 2-5, 4 times.

Row 22 (Decrease row): K4, (K2, K2 tog) across to last 2 stitches, K2: 30 stitches.

Rows 23 and 24: Knit across.

Row 25: Bind off 14 stitches, slip stitch from right needle onto crochet hook, chain 8 (toggle loop made), slip stitch from crochet hook onto right needle; bind off remaining stitches in knit.

Finishing

Thread a yarn needle with an 18 inch length of yarn. With right sides together and matching stitches, fold piece at first turning ridge, sew side seams. Fold over Flap for toggle placement, sew toggle to Body. Weave in ends.

Adjustable Headband

Pattern Link: http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/L20653.html

Who says knitting has to be boring? This fun and furry headband is a fun fashion accent for girls and women of all ages that like to show off their fun side. Made with Lion Brand’s Bellini yarn and you use the tracks on the side of the yarn to knit.

You will need 1 ball of Lion Brand Bellini yarn in the color of your choice. Pattern uses 929-202 Naples. You will also need size 11 (8mm) needles, and about 2 yards of ribbon.

The gauge is not important for this pattern.

Note that Bellini yarn is constructed with a track along one edge. The spaces in this track edge should be counted as holes.

Cast on 26 stitches as follows:

From end of yarn, skip the first 2 holes (this end of the yarn is the yarn tail), then insert your needle from back to front into the next hole. Keeping this loop on your needle, insert your needle from back to front into each of the next 25 holes - 26 stitches (loops) on needle.

Without knitting any rows, bind off all stitches as follows:

One at a time, slip first 2 stitches from left needle to right needle. With the tip of the left needle, lift the first stitch on the right needle up and over the second stitch and off the needle. Slip the next stitch from the left needle to the right needle and repeat the previous step using the point of the left needle to lift the first stitch up and over the second stitch and off the needle. Continue until all the stitches on the left needle have been bound off and one stitch remains on the right needle. Cut the yarn and pull the tail through the last stitch and slip it off the needle.

Finishing

Cut scrap yarn or narrow ribbon into two pieces each about 1 yd. (1 m) long. Fold each piece in half and tie one piece to each end of headband. Trim ends.

(You can also use this method with Red Heart Sashay yarn.)

Knit Stadium Lapghan

Pattern Link: http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/knit-stadium-lapghan

This easy and quick lapghan designed by Julie Hines for Red Heart is made from 16 squares using Red Heart’s team spirit yarn. It looks like there is a lot of color work, but the yarn changes colors on its own to form stripes. Since you knit each square separately this project is a great take-along to knit on the go, or when you’re relaxing in the evening. Choose your team’s favorite colors and stay warm while cheering for them. The lapghan measures about 42 inches square after edging.

You will need 5 skeins of Red Heart Team Spirit yarn, a 32 inch US size 8 (5mm) circular needle, and a tape

Gauge is 16 stitches and 28 rows equal 4 inches in Garter stitch. One square measures about 10 inches square

Special Stitch
kfb (Knit into front and back) = Knit next stitch but do not remove from needle, knit into back loop of same stitch and remove from needle.

Notes

1. Lapghan is made from 16 Squares.

2. Squares are arranged as shown in Photo and sewn together.

3. Circular needle is used to accommodate large number of stitches needed to work edging. Work back and forth in rows as if working with straight needles.

4. Edging is worked across each side edge of assembled Lapghan and corners of edging are sewn together.

Square (make 16)

Cast on 38 stitches.

Work in Garter stitch (knit every row) until piece measures about 10 inches from beginning.

Bind off.

Finishing

Arrange Squares into 4 rows of 4 Squares, alternating vertical and horizontal striping as shown in photo, and sew Squares together.

Lapghan Edging

With right side facing, pick up and k146 stitches evenly spaced across one side edge.

Row 1 (wrong side): Knit.

Row 2 (increase row): K1, kfb, knit to last 2 stitches, kfb, k1—148 stitches.

Rows 3–10: Repeat last 2 rows 4 more times—156 stitches.

Bind off. Repeat across all sides. Sew mitered corners together. Weave in ends.

Braided Headband

Pattern Link: http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/60595.html

This headband is actually three lengths of knitted fabric. It is worked in Lion Brand’s Wool Ease yarn which is a blend of wool and acrylic making it easy to work with and easy to care for. You could quickly knit up a bunch in different colors to match your favorite outfits or give as gifts. Headband measures approximately 2 inches wide by 12 inches long when completed.

You will need 2 balls of Lion Brand Wool ease in contrasting or coordinating colors. (Headband is knitted with 2 strands of yarn held together.) You will also need size 8 (5mm) needles, 1 yard of 1 inch grosgrain ribbon in a matching color, a sewing needle, and matching thread.

Gauge: 1 headband strip is 1 inch wide.

Headband Strip (make 3)

With 1 strand A and 1 strand B held together, cast on 5 stitches.

Row 1: Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1.

Row 2: Purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until Strip measures 12 inches from beginning. Bind off.

Finishing

Place 3 Strips on top of one another and sew together at one end. Braid Strips, and then sew together at other end. Weave in ends. Cut ribbon length in half; sew one half to each end of Headband.

Basic Garter Stitch Dishcloth

Patten Link: http://com.yarnspirations.pattern-pdfs.s3.amazonaws.com/Web-L-BackToBasicsDishcloth-ENG.pdf

I absolutely love to make my own dishcloths, and cotton yarn is perfect for this easy project. The pattern uses Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn in Earth Ombre so the pattern is self-striping. The dishcloth should measure 8 inches square when finished.

You will need 1 ball of Lily Sugar n Cream yarn in the color of your choice, US size 7 (4.5mm) needles, and a tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Gauge is 19 stitches and 32 rows equal 4 inches in Garter stitch.

Cast on 38 stitches.

1st row: (Wrong side). Knit.

2nd row: (Right side). Knit.

Rep last 2 rows for garter stitch until work from beg measures 8" ending on a Right Side row. Cast
off knitwise (Wrong Side).

Meridian Scarf

Pattern Link: http://www.yarnspirations.com/patterns/meridian-scarf.html

This cute scarf is worked in a rib stitch with Paton’s Denimy yarn in Lemon Curry Denim. It measures around 7 inches wide by 80 inches long when completed. This pattern would be suitable for a man or a woman and make a great gift.

You will need 4 balls of Paton’s Denimy yarn in the color of your choice and US size 9 (5.5mm) needles.

Gauge is 16 stitches and 22 rows equal 4 inches in Stocking stitch.

Cast on 31 stitches.

1st row: *K2. P2. Rep from * to last 3 stitches. K2. P1.

Rep 1st row until work from beg measures 80 inches.

Cast off.

Fringe: Cut lengths of yarn 16 inches long. Taking 3 strands tog, fold in half and knot into fringe evenly across Scarf ends. Trim fringe evenly.

Bright Pencil Case

Pattern Link: http://www.yarnspirations.com/patterns/bright-pencil-case.html

This is a really cute idea to help keep your pens and pencils from getting misplaced. If you have school age children you could knit these up for them to carry to school, or to use at home to store their pens, pencils, markers, and crayons. This pattern uses Lily’s Sugar n Cream cotton yarn which makes it easy to care for. It also has a fabric lining to keep the pens and pencils from working their way through the knitted material.

You will need the following to knit the pencil case shown in the pattern:

1 ball each of Lily Sugar n Cream

Contrast B (01628 Hot Orange)

Contrast C (00073 Sunshine)

Contrast D (01712 Hot Green)

Contrast E (01215 Robin’s Egg)

Contrast F (01742 Hot Blue)

Contrast G (01317 Hot Purple)

Contrast H (00071 Grape)

You will also need US size 7 (4.5 mm) knitting needles, fabric for lining approximately 17 inches by20 inches, sewing thread, matching embroidery floss, and elastic ¾ inches wide by 16 inches long.

Gauge is 20 stitches and 26 rows equal 4 inches.

Special Stitch: Sl1wyif: Slip next stitch knitwise, with yarn in front of work.

Stripe Pattern: Work 12 rows of each color in the following sequence:

A, B, C, D, E, F, G and H. These 96 rows form Stripe Pattern

.

With A, cast on 45 sts.

1st row: (RS). K1. *Sl1wyif. K1. Repeat from * to end of row.

2nd row: Purl.

3rd row: K1. *K1. Sl1wyif. Repeat from * to last 2 sts. K2.

4th row: Purl.

First 4 rows of Stripe Pat are complete.

Keeping continuing of Stripe Pat, Repeat last 4 rows until all 96 rows of Stripe Pat are complete. Cast off.

Tie: With D, cast on 90 stitches. Cast off.

Trim fabric lining to measure 16 by 19 inches. With sewing thread, sew lining to Pencil Case around perimeter, using a ½ inch seam allowance along top and sides.

Fold bottom 2 inches of Case to Wrong Side to form pocket. With embroidery floss to match color of stripes, sew through all thicknesses from bottom to top of pocket along center line. Repeat stitching 1inch apart on both sides to form slots for pencils. Sew elastic in position (see picture). Stitch slots for pencils in same spots as for bottom pocket.

Optional: Color elastic with colored pencils to match colors of Pencil Case.

Place marker on Tie approximately 6 inches from one end. Sew Tie at marker to outer end of Case as shown in photo, leaving long end of Tie to wrap around Case.

Thank you again for purchasing this book on beginning knitting. I have enjoyed writing this book, and I hope you enjoy knitting up these patterns and many more to practice and perfect your new knitting skills. Remember to relax, have fun, and enjoy this time honored and fun art form. All my best to you!

All of the patterns I have included in this book which are not mine can be found for free on the internet. I have given credit to the original designers I could, and the attributions for the images I use in this book can be found at the end of this book

Image Attributions

All images from Flickr shared under Creative Commons License
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/2.0/

Knitting

Image from Flickr shared by fdecomite
https://www.flickr.com/photos/fdecomite/3121817681

Straight Needles

Image from Flickr shared by Bronwyn Quillam
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beeep/119700331

Circular Needles

Image from Flickr shared by Hedgehog Fibers
https://www.flickr.com/photos/29825916@N05/11650891113

Knitting Needle Size Chart
http://sheepfibre.blogspot.com/2011/05/knitting-needle-conversion-chart_3984.html

Sheep Fibre Blog

Double Point Needles

Image from Flickr shared by Barbara N
https://www.flickr.com/photos/46097950@N02/6860325051

Cable Needle

Image from Red Heart Learning Center
http://www.redheart.com/learn/articles/learn-knit-cables

Stitch Markers

Image from Flickr shared by Fiona Bradley
https://www.flickr.com/photos/blisspix/23742506

Row Counter

Image from Flickr shared by Kate Bolin
https://www.flickr.com/photos/katemonkey/4603834404

Yarn Store

Image from Flickr shared by Hobvias Sudoneighm
https://www.flickr.com/photos/striatic/489940538

Red Heart Soft Yarn

Image from Flickr shared by Jessica Kennedy
https://www.flickr.com/photos/moria/2148535873

Decorative Yarn

Image from Flickr shared by normanack
https://www.flickr.com/photos/29278394@N00/31230903

Sheep in New Zealand

Image from Flickr shared by epSos .de
https://www.flickr.com/photos/epsos/5765901998

Bamboo/Silk Blend Yarn

Image from Flickr shared by Ny
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ilashdesigns/11197687453

Chart of Yarn Weights
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html

Image from Craft Yarn Council

Yarn Label Symbols
http://www.lionbrand.com/yarnCare.html

Image from Lion Brand Yarns

Yarn Label
www.craftyarncouncil.com/label.html

Image from Craft Yarn Council

Easy Knit Scarf Pattern
http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/easy-knit-scarf

Images from Red Heart Pattern

Woodstock Slouch Hat Pattern
http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/L40362.html?noImages=

Images from Lion Brand Pattern

Knitting Abbreviations and Symbols Master List
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/knit.html

Craft Yarn Council

Casting On
http://learntoknit.lionbrand.com/faq/83.html?learntoknit=1&lbc=&language=

Images from Lion Brand Yarns Knitting Tutorial

Knit Stitch Images
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/84.html?www=1&lbc=&language=

Images from Lion Brand Yarns Tutorial

Purl Stitch Images
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/85.html?www=1&lbc=&language=

Images from Lion Brand Yarns Tutorial

Seed Stitch Example
https://www.flickr.com/photos/breibeest/2885284558

Image from Flickr shared by Breibeest

Rib Stitch Example
https://www.flickr.com/photos/eraphernalia_vintage/4091125163

Image from Flickr shared by Cheryl

Slip Stitches
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/81.html?www=1&lbc=&language=

Lion Brand Yarns

Back Loop Increase Images
http://www.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/faq-search.cgi?store=/stores/eyarn&faqKey=75

Lion Brand Yarn

Make a Stitch Images
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/77.html?www=1&lbc=&language=

Lion Brand Yarns

Yarn Over Increase Image
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/78.html?www=1&lbc=&language=

Lion Brand Yarns

Weaving in Ends
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/94.html?www=1&lbc=&language=

Lion Brand Yarns

Color Wheel
http://makezineblog.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/cl_colorwheel-thumb-600x546-35529.jpg?w=600&h=546

Image from Makezine Blog

Stained Glass Sweater
https://www.flickr.com/photos/milele/1455193558

Image from Flickr shared by Lisa Dusseault

Left Twist Cable Pattern Image
http://www.knitpicks.com/KPimages/NING/PDFimages/LeftTwistCableChart.jpg

Knit Picks Tutorials

Right Twist Cable Pattern Image
http://www.knitpicks.com/KPimages/NING/PDFimages/RightTwistCableChart.jpg

Knit Picks Tutorials

Advanced Knitting

Thank you for purchasing this book on advanced knitting. This book is geared toward knitters who have advanced from basic knitting and are ready to take the next step in their craft. By now you should be proficient with basic knit stitches such as knit, purl, increase and decrease. You should also know how to cast on and bind off, and basic color techniques. In this book we’ll learn advanced knitting techniques and some fun advanced stitches. We’ll also explore some fun yarn that will really make your projects pop.

So are you ready to become an advance knitter? Okay let’s get started!

Contents

Chapter One – How to Use Graph or Chart Patterns

Chapter Two – Intarsia Knitting

Chapter Three – Fair Isle Knitting

Chapter Four – Advance Stitches and Techniques

Chapter Five – Fun Yarns

Attributions and Resources

Chapter One – How to Use Graph or Chart Patterns

As you progress in your knitting skills you will want to try more advanced patterns. Many of these patterns are in the form of graphs and charts. You can even take counted cross stitch patterns and convert them into a graph for knitting. Once you understand and can read graphs an entire new world of knitting becomes available to you.

When you first look at a graph or chart, check the key for the pattern. This is the list of symbols used in the pattern and what they stand for. Most charts and graphs are pretty well standardized, but some older graph patterns or patterns from different countries may have different symbols. This is why it is important to look at the key so that you understand all of the symbols used in the pattern.

The next thing you’ll notice about a chart or graph is the way the rows are numbered. The odd row numbers are on the right side, and the even row numbers are on the left of side of the chart. This is because you begin with the first row and read the chart from right to left. When you turn your work and begin the second row you read the chart from left to right. If you’re knitting in the round and the right side is always facing you, you would read each line of a chart from right to left. Some charts also have the stitch numbers on the bottom of the chart. This is to help you count your stitches and stay on track.

Charts can also have pattern repeats. These are indicated by heavy lines between rows. The pattern will tell you how many times to repeat the pattern between the darkened lines for a pattern repeat. If you see a black square on a chart this is to tell you that no stitch is worked. These blocks are used in charts to help visualize the pattern, and to keep the chart even.

In this example from How to Read a Chart by Wendy D. Johnson on her blog Wendy Knits, you can see the blacked out squares where you would not make a stitch.  Instead of doing any stitch or slip stitching, you would just pass over that square and move on to the next one. If this pattern were written out it would look like this:

This excerpt is from her Sprucey Lucy free sock pattern available on her blog. She has written instructions as well as charts for this pattern. I can’t share the entire pattern with you, but if you go to the link I have provided you can see this really cute sock pattern and how the combination of charts and written instructions make this advanced pattern easy to understand.

Charts and graphs are used for lace, Intarsia, Fair Isle, and complicated patterns where writing out the pattern would be too time consuming and confusing. The following chart is from Craft Yarn Council and lists the most common symbols used in charts and graphs. I would recommend printing this chart out for easy reference. (I know it is quite small on an e-reader screen, but if you print it out you will be able to read it much better.)

This section shows symbols used for cables. In the first example the cable uses 2 stitches with the front cable leaning to the right. The direction of the top cable is important when you are using charts, so be sure you know how many stitches are used for the cable, and which leg of the cable is on top, and which one is on the bottom.

Now that we’ve covered the basics of reading a chart pattern let’s make one together. I have selected the Cabled Toddler Hat designed by Laura Bain for Red Heart for us to work on. (You can find hundreds of free patterns on the Red Heart site as well as on the Lion Brand and Bernat/Caron site. Be sure the check the Resource section in the back of the book for links to other pattern sites.)

To knit this cute pattern you will need 2 balls of Red Heart Soft acrylic yarn in 9388 Wheat. You will also need a 16 inch US 15 (10mm) circular needle, set of US 15 (10mm) double point needles, a 4 inch piece of heavy cardboard to create the tassels, stich holder, cable needle, stitch marker, and a yarn needle.

The gauge for this pattern is 12 stitches and 18 rounds equal 4 inches in cable and checkerboard pattern.

The hat will measure 16 inches around and stretches to fit most toddler and young children’s heads.

Okay now that we’ve covered all of the things you need, the special stitches, the notes, and the abbreviations let’s take a look at the chart key.

When you look at the key you will see the stitches used in the hat pattern. Notice that the cables use 4 stitches. Decreases are done by k2tog.

Next let’s take a look at the chart for shaping the crown.

The crown is shaped 34 stitches across and ending with11 stitches in the 5th row. The 5 rows alternate between knit, purl, and k2togh stitches to decrease the crown to shape it. In the first row of the crown you would knit 2 together, purl 2, k 2 together, purl 2, knit 2 together, purl 3, knit 2 together 4 times, purl 3, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2 together, purl 2, knit 2 together, purl 3, knit 2 together 4 times, and finish by purling 3 stitches. Since you are knitting in the round you would return to the right of the pattern and work the stitches across row 2.

At the end of each row you return tothe right side of the pattern and work across. Remember that the first row is the right side, so on the odd rows the black circle is a purl stitch, but on the next line the black circle would be a knit stitch. (You might find it helpful to take a yellow highlighter and highlight every other row so you can keep track of right and wrong side.)

This is what the crown portion of the pattern looks like written out. You can compare it to the chart to see how the stitches all come together.

Shape Crown

Note:When stitches will no longer fit comfortably on circular needle, change to double pointed needles.

Round 1: [K2tog, p2] twice, k2tog, p3, [k2tog]4 times, p3, k2tog, [p2, k2tog] twice, p3, [k2tog] 4 times, p3—34 stitches.

Round 2: [K1, p2] twice, k1, p3, k4, p3, k1, [p2, k1] twice, p3, k4, p3.

Round 3: [P1, k2tog] 3 times, p1, [k2tog] twice, p1, [k2tog, p1] 4 times, [k2tog] twice, p1, k2tog—22 stitches.

Round 4: [P1, k1] 3 times, p1, k2, p1, [k1, p1]4 times, k2, p1, k1.

Round 5: *K2tog;repeat from * to end of round—11stitches.

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail and thread it through remaining 11 stitches and pull them off of the needle. Pull to close the top opening and weave in tail securely.

If you look at the chart of the hat body you will see that there are 48 stitches per row. These are cast onto circular needles and worked in the round which means you return to the right of the chart at the end of each row and alternate the knit stitches to purl.

The first set of cables use 4 stitches and the first cable is created by slipping 2 stitches onto the cable needles and holding them to the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches, and then knit the 2 stitches off of the cable needle. All of the cables are located on odd rows so you would knit all of the stitches in them.

Here is the hat pattern written out.

Round 1: [P2, k2] 3 times, p1, [2/2 LC] twice, p1, [k2, p2]3 times, k2, p1, [2/2 LC] twice, p1, k2.

Round 2: [P2, k2] 3 times, p1, k8, p1, [k2, p2]3 times, k2, p1, k8, p1, k2.

Rounds 3 and 4: [K2, p2]twice, k2, p3, k8, p3, k2, [p2, k2]twice, p3, k8, p3.

Rounds 5 and 6:Repeat Round 2 twice.

Round 7: [K2, p2]twice, k2, p3, k2, 2/2 LC, k2, p3, k2, [p2, k2]twice, p3, k2, 2/2 LC, k2, p3.

Round 8: Repeat Round 3.

Rounds 9 and 10: Repeat Round 2 twice.

Rounds 11 and 12: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4.

Rounds 13–22:Repeat Rounds 1–10.

There is no chart for the earflaps. You work them back and forth in rows.

Earflaps (make 2)

With two double pointed needles and 2 strands of yarn held together, cast on 4 stitches.

I-Cord Tie: Work 8 inches of I-cord. Do not bind off.

Note: You can now use 2 double pointed needles or 1 circular needle to work and work back and forth in rows.

Row 1 (right side): K2, place marker, k2.

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: K1, kfb, slip marker, kfb, k1—6 stitches.

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit to 1 st before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to end of row—8 stitches.

Row 6: Purl.

Rows 7 and 8: Repeat last 2 rows—10 stitches.

Work in Stockinette stitch until earflap (including I-Cord tie) measures about 8½ inches from beginning; and end on the wrong side (purl) row.

Place the stitches of the first earflap onto a stitch holder and cut yarn. Keep stitches of 2nd earflap on needle and do not cut yarn.

Joining Round (right side): With right side facing and circular needle, knit across the stitches of the 2nd earflap, cast on 14 stitches, knit across the stitches of the first earflap on holder, cast on 14 stitches—48 stitches. Place a marker for beginning of round. Do not twist the piece and you will now work in rounds.,

FINISHING

Pompom

Make a pompom about 3 inches diameter and attach securely to top of hat. (You can also make pompoms by winding yarn around a piece of cardboard several times. Slip the yarn off of the cardboard and tie a piece of yarn around the center. Cut the ends of the yarn and fluff to form pompoms. Trim to make a ball. The more yarn you use, the fluffier your pompom will be.)

Tassels (make 2)

Wrap yarn about 20 times around a 4 inch piece of heavy cardboard.Thread a 6 inch length of yarn under the top of the wraps and tie into a tight knot for top of tassel. Slip off of cardboard. With a 6 inch piece of yarn tie around wraps about one inch from the top to create tassel neck and wrap around tassel several times and draw the ends into the tassel. Tie on tassel to the end of both I-Cords.

Weave in ends.

Chapter Two – Intarsia Knitting

Now that we’ve covered the basics of working with a graph or chart we can move onto Intarsia knitting. Intarsia knitting enables you to create large or small blocks of color which form pictures, letters, patterns, and designs in your knitting. Intarsia uses graphs and written out instructions to guide you through the pattern, although you may come across Intarsia patterns which are just charts or graphs.

Unlike Fair Isle knitting you do not carry the unused yarn on the back of your work. Rather you pick up and drop colors as you need them as you work back and forth across the rows of your pattern. If you look closely at the example you will see that the colors are resting across the row.

The best way to work Intarsia is to wind up the various colors you will need onto bobbins and work off of them. This makes it much easier to knit since you won’t have to be wrestling large balls of yarn as you knit. You can find bobbins in many craft stores. Cardboard embroidery bobbins work very well, or you could just use some cardboard cut into squares to wind your yarn onto. If you run out of yarn on one bobbin, simply wind up some more and pick the color up the next time you work across the row. If you need a color more than once, you will need to wind up as many bobbins as the color is called for in the pattern.

When you come to a color change it is very similar to joining a new color except you do not cut the yarn. Twist or trap the old yarn over or under the new yarn on the wrong side of the fabric to prevent gaps. The direction you twist the yarn will determine if the new color strand leans to the left, right, or remains straight.

Vertical Lines

To work vertical lines bring the old yarn in front of the new yarn on the wrong side of your work. Now knit the stitch.

Notice how the blue yarn (old color) is positioned over the white (new color). This will form a vertical line in your pattern and prevent gaps between the colors.

Once the stitch is knitted the back of your work will look like this. The old color is trapped under the new color forming a nice neat color change and vertical line in the front of the fabric.

Right and Left Slant

If you need to form a right slant you always have to twist the yarn. Left slants can just be worked without twisting the yarn because of the way the yarn works up naturally.

The next image shows the right slant twist on the knit side of the fabric. The image after this one shows the right slant twist on the purl side of the fabric.

As you can see when you come to the point where you need to change to blue and the edge must slant to the right you would take the white yarn and twist it up over the left needle before you knit with the blue. This traps the yarn and makes the legs of the stitch lean to the right.

On the purl side the white yarn is held in front of the blue to form a right leaning slant. This also traps the yarn and prevents gaps while forming the correct lean in the pattern.

When you need a left leaning color change the yarn naturally forms the slat without twisting.

In the following Intarsia Tulip chart designed by Barbara Breiter you can see the pattern calls for 40 stitches across and 60 rows. Each row shows the various color changes and how many stitches you need to work for each color. The edges of the leaves and some of the edges of the flower require you to create right or left leaning stitches. For example on row 3 you would work 16 knit stitches, and then create a right leaning color change to green and knit 3 stitches in dark green.

The next color change is a vertical change back to yellow across the row. If you are flat knitting you would begin the row 4 on the left and purl 18 stitches in yellow, purl 1 in light green with a vertical color change, purl 3 in dark green with a vertical color change, purl 1 in medium green with a vertical color change, 2 in dark green with a vertical color change, and then finish the row with 15 yellow purl stitches.

For flat knitting you would continue working back and forth across the graph working the odd rows in knit stitchfrom right to left, andthe even rows in purl stitch from left to right. When working in the round you work each row in knit stiches from right to left unless otherwise specified in the pattern.

Using the techniques we just covered you could knit this tulip motif quite easily and use it as a pillow cover or knit several and join them to create a pretty throw. You could also incorporate this motif into a sweater or bag pattern. Once you get the hang of working Intarsia patterns, you can make your own.

There are several programs and sites you can use to create an Intarsia chart or you can use graph paper and design your own. Cross stitch or counted cross stitch patterns are very easily converted to Intarsia charts.

Santa’s Stocking Just for You

Pattern Link: http://www.yarnspirations.com/patterns/santa-s-stocking-just-for-you.html

This really cute Santa stocking from Bernat Yarnspirations is knitting in the Intarsia method and is about 14 inches from top to toe.

You will need a four US 8 (5mm) double pointed needles, US 8 (5mm) straight needles. The pattern uses 1ball each Bernat Happy Holidays Sparkle yarn in the following colors:

Glittery Green –  MC (Main Color)

Slivered Red –  Contrast A

Twindle White – Contrast B

And 1 ball of Bernat Satin in Camel for Contrast C

Gauge for the pattern is 18 stitches and 24 rows equal 4 inches in stocking stitch.

Abbreviations:

W&T = Bring yarn to front of work. Slip next stitch purlwise.Bring yarn to back of work. Slip stitch back onto left-hand needle. Turn.

WS = Wrong side

Note: Stocking is worked in rows on pair of needles until Chart is complete, then Stocking is joined into round and worked on set of 4 double-pointed needles.

Note: When working from chart, wind small balls of the colors to be used, one for each separate area of color in the design. To change colors, twist the 2 colors around each other where they meet on Wrong Side to avoid a hole.

With MC and pair of needles, cast on 62 stitches 1st row: (RS). *K2. P2. Rep from * to last 2 stitches K2.

2nd row: *P2. K2. Rep from * to last 2 stitches P2.

3rd row: Knit.

4th row: *With MC, P1. With A, P1. Rep from * to end of row.

With A, beg with a knit row, work 15 rows in stocking stitch

Next row: (WS). *With MC, P1. With A, P1. Rep from * to end of row.

With MC, beg with a knit row, work 2 rows in stocking stitch

Place chart: Next row: (RS). Work 1st row of Chart across next 31 stitches, reading row from right to left. With MC, knit to end of row.

Next row: (RS). With MC, P31. Work 2nd row of Chart across next 31 stitches, reading row from
left to right.

Chart is now in position. (This means to work the stitches on the chart.)

Continue working Chart in stocking stitch until 36 rows of Chart are complete.

Next row: (RS). With MC, K2tog. Knit to last 2 stitches. K2tog. 60 stitches.

Next row: *With MC, P1. With A, P1. Rep from * around. Break MC.

Divide 60 stitches onto 3 needles (20 stitches on each needle) and join in round (with join at center back), placing a marker on first stitch.

With A, knitIin rounds until work from beg measures 12 inches. Break A.

Heel: Slip last 15  stitches from 3rd needle and first 15 stitches from 1st needle onto 1 needle for heel.

Leave remaining 30 stitches on 2 needles for instep. Join Main Color to Right Side of work and proceed across 30 stitches for heel as follows:

1st row: (RS). K29. W&T.

2nd row: K28. W&T.

3rd row: K27. W&T.

4th row: K26. W&T.

Continue until there are 10 ‘unwrapped’ stitches, end a Wrong Side row.

Next row: (Right Side). K11. W&T.

Next row: K12. W&T.

Next row: K13. W&T.

Next row: K14. W&T.

Continue until all Heel stitches have been worked, ending on a Right Side row. Break MC.

Divide 30 these stitches onto 2 needles (15 stitches on each needle). Join A to 1st needle. K15 on 1st
needle. K30 on 2nd needle. K15 on 3rd needle.

Place marker at beg of 1st needle to indicate beginning of round.

Knit even in rounds until work from Heel measures 4inches.

Next round: *With MC, K1. With A, K1. Rep from * around. Break A.

Shape toe: 1st round: 1st needle: With MC, knit to last 3 stitches. K2tog. K1. 2nd needle: K1. ssk.Knit to last 3 stitches. K2tog. K1. 3rd needle: K1. ssk. Knit remaining stitches to end of needle.

2nd round: Knit.

Rep last 2 rounds to 24 stitches. Divide stitches onto 2 needles.

Graft 2 sets of 12 stitches tog.

Embroider name with MC and duplicate stitch.

Sew center back seam from cast on edge to join.

Twisted Cord: Cut 2 lengths of MC, 18 inches long. Taking both strands tog, have someone hold one end or attach end to a hook. Twist strands to the right until they being to curl.

Fold 2 ends tog and tie in a knot so they will not unravel. The strands will now twist themselves
together. Sew to center back of Stocking inside cast on edge for hanging loop.

Pompom: Wind B around 2 fingers 20 times.

Remove from fingers and tie tightly in center.

Cut through each side loops. Trim to smooth round shape. Sew to end of Santa’s hat as shown in photo.

In Bloom Pullover

Pattern Link: http://www.yarnspirations.com/in-bloom-pullover.html

This is a very lovely sweater with a large flower on the front and a smaller flower motif on the back. The pattern is written for the smallest size with other sizes in parenthesis. Sizes are as follows:

Gauge is 20 stitches and 26 rows equal 4 inches in stocking stitch with larger needles.

Abbreviations:

FRONT

**With D and larger needles, cast on 111 (121-131-141-161-175) stitches. Break D. Join MC.

1st row: (RS). With MC, K1. *P1. K1. Rep from * to end of row.

2nd row: P1. *K1. P1. Repeat from * to end of row. Repeat last 2 rows of (K1. P1) ribbing for 3”

[7.5 cm], ending on a 2nd row.**

Proceed in stocking stitch until work from beg measures 11” [28 cm], ending on a purl row.

Place Chart: 1st row: (Right Side). With MC, K20 (25-30-35-45-55). Knit 1st row of Chart I, reading row from right to left. With MC, K20 (25-30-35-45-55).

2nd row: With MC, P20 (25-30-35-45-55). Purl 2nd row of Chart I, reading row from left to right. With MC, P20 (25-30-35-45-55).

Chart I is now in position.

Continue working chart to end of Chart.

With MC, continue even until work from beginning measures 25” [63.5 cm], ending on a purl row.

Shape neck: 1st row: (RS). K46 (50-53-57-66-72). Turn. Leave rem stitches on a stitch holder.

Dec 1 stitch at neck edge on next 4 rows, then every following alt row 4 times more. 38 (42-45-49-58-64) stitches rem.

Continueeven until work from beg measures27½ (27½-27½-28-28-28½)” [70 (70-70-71-71-72.5) cm], ending on a purl row.

Shape shoulder: Cast off9 (10-11-12-14-16) stitches begof next and every following alt row twice more. Purl 1 row even. Cast off rem 11 (12-12-13-16-16) stitches.

With RS facing, slip next 19 (21-25-27-29-31) stitches onto a stitch holder. Join MC to remaining stitches and knit to end of row.

Dec 1 stitch at neck edge on next 4 rows, then every following alt row 4 times more. 38 (42-45-49-58-64) stitches rem.

Continue even until work from beg measures 27½ (27½-27½-28-28-28½)” [70 (70-70-71-71-72.5) cm, ending on a knit row.

Cast off9 (10-11-12-14-16) stitches beg of next and every following alt row twice more. Knit 1 row even. Cast off rem 11 (12-12-13-16-16) stitches.

BACK

Work from ** to ** as given for Front.

With MC, proceed in stocking stitch until work from beg measures same length as Front to beg of shoulder shaping, ending on a purl row.

Shape shoulders and back: 1stitch row:

(RS). Cast off 9 (10-11-12-14-16) stitches. K28 (31-33-36-43-47). K2tog. K2. Turn. Leave rem stitches unworked.

2nd row: P2. P2tog. Purl to end of row.

3rd row: Cast off 9 (10-11-12-14-16) stitches.

Knit to last 4 stitches. K2tog. K2.

4th row: Purl.

5th row: Cast off 9 (10-11-12-14-16) stitches.

Knit to end of row.

6th row: Purl.

Cast off rem 11 (12-12-13-16-16) stitches.

With RS facing, slip next 29 (31-35-37-39-41) stitches onto a stitch holder.

1st row: Join MC to rem stitches. K2. ssk. Knit to end of row.

2nd row: Cast off 9 (10-11-12-14-16) stitches. Purl to last 4 stitches. P2togtbl. P2.

3rd row: K2. ssk. Knit to end of row.

4th row: Cast off 9 (10-11-12-14-16) stitches. Purl to end of row.

5th row: Knit.

6th and 7th rows: As 4th and 5th rows.

Cast off rem 11 (12-12-13-16-16) stitches.

SLEEVES

With D and smaller needles, cast on 49 (49-53-55-59-61) stitches. Break D. Join MC.

With MC, work 6 (6-6-6-2-2)” [15 (15-15-15-5-5) cm] in (K1. P1) ribbing as given for Front, ending on a 2nd row.

Change to larger needles knit in stocking stitch, increase 1 stitch each end of needle on next and every following 6th (4th-4th-2nd-2nd-2nd) row until there are 63 (63-63-63-69-91) stitches, then every following

8th (6th-6th-4th-4th-4th) row until there are 69 (75-79-91-99-111) stitches.

Continue even until work from beg measures 16 (16-17-17-13-12½)” [40.5 (40.5-43-43-33-32) cm], ending on a purl row.

Shape top: Cast off 7 (8-9-10-11-12) stitches beg next 6 rows. Cast off rem 27 (27-25-31-33-39) stitches.

Finishing

Pin garment pieces to measurements and cover with damp cloth leaving cloth to dry.

Following Chart II, work duplicate stitch embroidery details of Rose on Front.

See Chart II on page 4.

Work duplicate stitch embroidery of Chart III at center Back, having top row of chart 5 rows below neck edge and center both sides evenly.

Collar: Sew right shoulder seam. With MC and smaller needles, pick up and knit 15 stitches down left front neck edge. K19 (21-25-27-29-31) from front stitch holder. Pick up and knit 15 stitches up right front neck edge,

3 stitches down right back neck edge. K29 (31-35-37-39-41) across back stitch holder, decrease 1 stitch at center. Pick up and knit 3 stitches up left back neck edge. 83 (87-95-99-103-107) stitches.

Work 7 rows in(K1. P1) ribbing as given for Front.Cast off in ribbing.

Sew left shoulder and neckband seam. Place markers on Front and Back 7½ (8-8½-9½-10½-11½)” [19 (20.5-21.5-24-26.5-29) cm] down from shoulders. Sew in Sleeves between markers.Sew side and sleeve seams.

Kiss Me Candy Dishcloth

Pattern Link: http://www.yarnspirations.com/patterns/kiss-me-candy-dishcloth.html

This really cute dishcloth is the perfect gift for Valentine’s Day or any time of the year. The Intarsia heart and raised letters look like the favorite candy heart candies of Valentine’s Day, and is about 8 inches square when completed.

You will need 1 ball of Lily Sugar’n Cream Cotton Yarn in Hot Purple for Contrast A, and Rose Pink for Contrast B (1 ball will make 2 dishcloths). You’ll also need US size 7 (4.5mm) needles.

Gauge is 20 stitches and 26 rows equal 4 inches in stocking stitch.

Instructions

Note: When working from Chart, wind small balls of the colors to be used, one for each separate area of color in the design. When changing colors, wind the 2 colors around each other where they meet, on WS, to avoid a hole. With A, cast on 41 stitches. Work rows 1 to 50 of Chart, noting first row is Wrong Side and reading Wrong Side rows from left to right and Right Side rows from right to left. With A, cast off knitwise (Wrong Side).

Chapter Three – Fair Isle Knitting

Fair Isle knitting is another technique used to create intricate and beautiful color work in projects. It is traditionally used for sweaters, scarves, socks, and hats. Instead of picking up and dropping colors as you work across row the colors are carried in the back of your work. Normally the yarn isn’t carried a long ways usually no more than three or four stitches. In this example you can see how a Fair Isle sock looks in the wrong side and how it looks on the right side. You can see way the yarn is carried, or floated, across the back of the work and picked up when needed.

Holding the Yarn in Fair Isle Color Work

You can knit Fair Isle totally in English style by dropping and picking up the yarn you need each time you need to create a stitch. This method is fine, but there is a lot of extra work when you knit in this manner. A more efficient way is to use Continental and English method. This works best if you are using only two colors. In your left hand you hold one color like you are knitting in the Continental method, and in your right hand you hold the other color in order to knit in the English method. This allows you to seamlessly switch colors without dropping and picking them up each time.

If you’re not familiar with Continental knitting, there are several videos on YouTube you can watch to get the hang of it, and I’ve included a link to a video in the back of this book. Basically you hold the yarn in your left hand and “pick” the yarn up onto your needle instead of wrapping it around the needles as in the English method. In this image you can see how she holds both colors.

When the pattern calls for purple she “picks” the yarn from her left hand, and when she needs white she wraps the yarn with her right hand. This method is quicker and once you get the hang of it you may find it is the best way for you to knit Fair Isle color works. Just remember not to pull the floats up tightly or your fabric will pucker.

Also keep the way you twist the yarn to float it consistent throughout your work. It doesn’t matter if the yarn is twisted over or under, just make sure you keep it the same throughout your work. Keep your tension the same throughout your work, too. So remember which way you’re floating the yarn and keep your tension true during the entire project and your Fair Isle pattern will work up correctly.

If you need to float a color more than four stitches you will need to gently stretch the stitches on the right needle, bring the color over the back of you work and then knit or purl with that strand of yarn. By stretching the stitches on the right needle you prevent the fabric from puckering when you pull the yarn up to work with.

If you don’t need a color for a few rows, float the color up the side of the fabric. At the beginning of a row simply twist the unused yarn under the color you are using and let it rest at the end of the row. When it is time for you to pick it up again it will be ready for you. This prevents breaking the yarn and having a bunch of ends to weave in. It also creates a stronger fabric than one with a lot of breaks in the yarn.

Fair Isle Patterns and Charts

Fair Isle uses charts and graphs. These are read just like all other charts. When flat knitting the chart is read from the right to the left starting at the bottom, and the next row is read from left to right. All odd rows are read from right to left, and all even rows are read from left to right. If you are knitting in the round, each row (round) is read from the right to the left since the right side of the fabric is facing you at all times.

Although Fair Isle charts and patterns may look confusing. If you take them one row at a time and understand the key to the chart you will find Fair Isle is easy and creates beautiful patterns in your knitting.  Okay are you ready to try some patterns? I’ve picked out some that I thought would help you get the hang of Fair Isle and help you get your technique down pat.

Cloud Song Cowl

Pattern Link: http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/90660AD.html

This pretty cowl from Lion Brand Yarns is a good first Fair Isle project. It works up to be about 21 ½ inches and once it is hemmed it will be 15 inches wide. You will need 1 ball each of Lion Brand Cotton Ease yarn in Hazelnut (A), Cactus (B), Cherry (C), and Almond (D). You will also need a 24 inch size 7 (4.5mm) circular needle, stitch markers, and a tapestry needle.

Gauge is 18 stitches equal 4 inches in Stockinette stitch worked in the round.

NOTES:

1. Cowl is knitted in Stockinette stitch in the round.

2.Follow Chart from right to left on every round with a 24-stitch repeat four times around in total.

COWL

With D, cast on 96 stitches.

At the beginning of each round place a marker.

Join by working the first stitch on left hand needle with the working yarn from the right hand needle, being careful not to twist stitches.

Work in Stockinette stitch worked in the round for 11/2 inches.

This portion of piece will be turned to the Wrong Side after piece is knitted and hemmed in place.

Begin Chart

With D as first color and A as second color, and working in Stockinette stitch, work Rounds 1-25 of Chart.

Cut A and join C.

With C as first color and D as second color, work Rounds 26-40 of Chart.

Cut C and join B.

With D as first color and B as second color, work Rounds 41-46 of Chart.

Continue with D as first color and B as second color and work Rounds 1-24 of Chart.

Cut D and join A.

With B as first color and A as second color, work Rounds 25-44 of Chart.

With B only, work in Stockinette stitch for 1 1/2 in.

Bind off.

FINISHING

Turn about 1 1/4 in.

(3 cm) to Wrong Side along top edge of Cowl and sew in place.

Repeat along lower edge of Cowl.

Weave in ends.

Fair Isle Scarf

Pattern Link: http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/fair-isle-scarf

The next pattern I picked out is a man’s Fair Isle Scarf designed by Christine Marie Chen for Red Heart Yarns. You can easily substitute the colors and knit up this classic scarf for everyone man or woman. The scarf measures 70 inches by 6 inches when completed.

You will need 1 skein each ofRed Heart Super Saver in Black (A),Grey Heather (B), andSoft White (C). You will also need US size 10 (6mm) double pointed needles, and a tapestry needle.

Gauge is 16 stitches and 18 rows equal 4 inches in Stockinette stitch.

Notes

1. Scarf is worked in Stockinette stitch in rounds with Fair Isle color work.

2 Twist the strands together, preventing holes. Carry color not in use across wrong side of piece.

3. Scarf can be worked using 3 or 4 double pointed needles or a 36” (90 cm) circular needle.

Scarf

With A, cast on 48 stitches. Place marker for beginning of round.

Ribbing Round: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Ribbing Round until piece measures about 1½ inches from beginning.

Seeding Section

Round 1: *With A, k1; with C, k1; with A, k2; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 2 and 3: With A, knit.

Round 4: *With A, k3; with C, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Rounds 5 and 6: With A, knit.

First Zigzag Section

Round 7: *With A, k3; with B, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 8:With B, k1, *with A, k1; with B, k3;repeat from * to last 3 sts; with A, k1; with B, k2.

Round 9: With B, knit.

Round 10: *With B, k3; with A, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 11:With A, k1, *with B, k1; with A, k3; repeat from * to last 3 sts; with B, k1; with A, k2.

Rounds 12 and 13: With A, knit.

Geometric Section

Round 14: *With A, k1; with C, k4; with A, k5; with C, k5; with A, k5; with C, k4; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 15: *With A, k1; with C, k1; with A, k2; with C, k1; with A, k4; with C, k2; with A, k3; with C, k2; with A, k4; with C, k1; with A, k2; with C, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 16: *With A, k2; with C, k1; with A, k1; with C, k1; with A, k3; with C, k1; with A, k2;
with C, k3; with A, k2; with C, k1; with A, k3; [with C, k1; with A, k1] twice; repeat from * to
end of round.

Round 17: *With A, k1; with C, k1; with A, k1; [with C, k2; with A, k2] twice; with C, k3; [with A, k2; with C, k2] twice; with A, k1; with C, k1; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 18: *With C, k1; with A, k5; with C, k1; with A, k2; with C, k1; with A, k1; with C, k3; with A, k1; with C, k1; with A, k2; with C, k1; with A, k5; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 19: *With A, k5; with C, k1; with A, k4; with C, k1; with A, k3; [with C, k1; with A, k4] twice; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 20: *With C, k1; with A, k3; with C, k1; with A, k2; [with C, k3; with A, k1] twice; with C, k3; with A, k2; with C, k1; with A, k3; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 21: *With A, k3; with C, k1; with A, k3; with C, k3; [with A, k1; with C, k1] twice; with A, k1; with C, k3; with A, k3; with C, k1; with A, k2; repeat from * to end of round.

Round 22: Repeat Round 20.

Round 23: Repeat Round 19.

Round 24: Repeat Round 18.

Round 25: Repeat Round 17.

Round 26: Repeat Round 16.

Round 27: Repeat Round 15.

Round 28: Repeat Round 14.

Rounds 29 and 30: With A, knit.

Second Zigzag Section

Rounds 31–37: Repeat Rounds 7–13 (First Zigzag Section).

Rounds 38–296: Repeat Rounds 1–37 seven more times.

Rounds 297–300: Repeat Rounds 1–4.

Ribbing Round: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.

Repeat Ribbing Round until ribbing measures about 1½ inches

FINISHING

Bind off and weave in ends.

Houndstooth Check Tie

Pattern Link: http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/90122AD.html

This cute tie pattern will give you a chance to practice your Continental and English style of holding the yarn. Since there are several color changes per row, I would recommend this method of holding the yarn. The tie works up to about 3 ½ inches by 56 inches when completed.

For this pattern you will need 1 ball of Lion Brand Superwash Merino Yarn in each of these colors:

Wild Berry (A), Cotton Candy (B), Rock Candy (C), and Toffee (D).  You will also need size 3 (3.25mm) knitting needles.

Gauge is 30 stitches and 40 rows equal 4 inches.

When changing color, pick up new color from under old color to twist yarns and prevent holes.

TIE

With A, cast on 56 stitches.

Row 1: With A, k14; with B as CC, work Row 1 of Check Pattern across next 28 stitches, with A, k14.

Row 2: With A, p14, with B as CC, work Row 2 of Check Pattern across next 28 stitches, with A, p14.

Continue and keep first and last 14 stitches in Stockinette stitch with A and working remaining stitches in Check Pattern with B as CC, until piece measures 7 in. (18 cm) from beginning, end with a Row 4 of Check Pattern.

Next Row: Cut B, join C. Continue as established, keeping first and last 14 stitches in St stitch with A and working rem stitches in Check Pattern with C as CC, until piece measures 14 in. (35.5 cm) from beginning, end with a Row 4 of Check Pattern.

Next Row: Cut C, join D. Continue as established, keeping first and last 14 stitches in St stitch with A and working rem stitches in Check Pattern with D as CC, until piece measures 20 in. (51 cm) from beginning, end with a Row 4 of Check Pattern.

Next Row: With A k16, with D k1, *with A k7, with D k1; repeat from * across to last 15 stitches, with A k15.

Next Row: With A, purl.

Next Row: With A k18, with D k1, *with A k9, with D, k1; repeat from * once more, with A, k to end of row.

Cut D, remainder of Tie is worked with A only.

Next Row: With A, purl.

Next (Decrease) Row: K1, k2tog (Decrease made), k to last 3, ssk (Decrease made), k1– 54 stitches remain.

Continue in St stitch with A only, AT THE SAME TIME, repeat Decrease Row every 4 rows 6 more times – 42 stitches after all Decreases have been made. Continue in Stockinette stitch until piece measures 40 in. (101.5 cm) from beginning, end with a Wrong Side row.

Next (Increase) Row: K1, k into front and thenback of next stitch(Increase made), k across to last 2 stitches, k into front and then back of next stitch (Increase made), k1 – 44 stitches remain at end of row. Continue in St stitch, AT THE SAME TIME, repeat Increase Row every 6 rows 2 more times – 48 stitches after all Increases have been made.

Work in Stockinette stitch until piece measures 56 in. (142 cm) from beginning. Bind off.

FINISHING

Seam long sides of Tie. Flatten Tie with seam centered at back. Seam top and lower edges. Weave in ends.

Chapter Four – Advance Stitches and Techniques

One of the things I enjoy about knitting is discovering and perfecting new stitches. As you progress in your knitting skills I encourage you to be on the lookout for new stitches to learn. There are several sites which offer free tutorials. If you sign up for New Stitch a Day you will get a new knitting stitch delivered to you each day with a link to a video so you can keep learning new stitches. They also have a handy Stitchionary for knitting and crochet you can use as a reference.

Popcorn Stitch or Bobble Stitch

The popcorn or bobble stitch creates little popcorn or bobble like shapes in your fabric which give it a lot of texture and interest. You will see either term used in patterns, but it means the same stitch. The pattern will also tell you how many stitches are used to create the popcorn or bobble stitch. Most of these stitches use either three, four, or five stitches to create the bobbles.

3 Stitch Popcorn Bobble

On the Right Side

Step 1: Insert the right needle into the first stitch on your left needle knitwise and knit one. Leave the stitch on the left needle.

Step 2: Move the yarn to the front and purl one into the same stitch.

Step 3: Move the yarn to the back and knit one into the same stitch.

On the Wrong Side

Step 4: Insert the right needle into all three stitches purlwise and purl 3 together.

Here is a pretty pattern for you to practice your new popcorn/bobble stitches. It is the Bobbled Cowl designed by Grace Alexander for Red Heart. You will need 2 balls of a medium weight wool blend or wool yarn, and a 24 inch long US size 8 (5 mm) circular needle. You will also need a stitch marker and a tapestry needle. Cowl measures 27 inches in circumference and 15 inches long.

Pattern Link: http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/bobbled-cowl-0

Cowl

Cast on 120 stitches.

Place marker for beginning of round and join, being careful not to twist stitches.

Garter Stitch Edging

Rounds 1 and 3: Purl.

Round 2: Knit.

Begin Pattern Stitch

Rounds 1 and 2: * P2, [k1, p2] 6 times, k20; repeat from * around.

Round 3: * P2, [k2B, p2]6 times, k2, MB, k5, MB, k5, MB, k5; repeat from * around.

Rounds 4 and 5: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2.

Round 6: * P2, [k2B, p2] 6 times, k20; repeat from * around.

Rounds 7 and 8: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2.

Round 9: * P2, [k2B, p2]6 times, k5, MB, k5, MB, k5, MB, k2; repeat from * around.

Rounds 10 and 11: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2.

Round 12: Repeat Round 6.

Repeat Rounds 1 �� 12 for pattern, until piece measures 13½” (34 cm) from beginning, ending with Round 5.

Work 3 rounds in Garterstitch,same as cast on edging. Bind off loosely.

Weave in yarn ends.

Mitered Corners

Mitered corners let you create perfect corners in your knitting. They are formed by invisible increases on each side of the corner. To create a mitered corner simply knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together through the back loop at the corner on the right side. On the wrong side you knit all of the stitches except the center stitch of the corner. You purl this stitch. Repeat until you reach the size of the square you need.

The Miters in Motion Afghan from Lion Brand Yarns is a great pattern to practice mitered corners. The squares combine to create a stunning Afghan. Each square measures 7 ¼ inches by 7 ¼ inches. The finished throw is about 60 inches long and 30 inches wide.

You will need 1 ball each of a Hunter Green, Green Heather, Plum, Grape Heather, Dark Rose, and Heather Rose. You will also need 2 balls of black and size 8 knitting needles and a size J/10 crochet hook.

Each basic square is worked in garter stitch  and is constructed using the sequence in Diagram A. Two rows of garter stitch equals one ridge. The cast on row (or pick-up row used when joining squares) plus the first Wrong Side row form the first ridge. From then on a ridge is formed by knitting one Right Side row and one Wrong Side row. Make color changes on Right Side rows. Each square in Diagram A represents one stitch (horizontally) and one ridge (vertically). Therefore, the first 3 ridges (squares) in Black represent 6 rows. The instructions will specify which to do. This project is made up of 24 basic squares. Each one is labeled in Diagram B with a letter (according to color) and a number. Use Diagram B to construct the piece as you work. Refer to Side A and Side B of Basic Squares (see Diagram A). Refer to diagrams as you knit.

Basic Square:Cast on 29+1+29 stitches (59 stitches total). The middle st becomes the of the mitre which is formed by working a double decrease (DD) on every WS row as follows: DD (double decrease): Knit 3 stitches together through back loop.

Next row (WS): K28, DD k27, slip last stitch as if to purl with yarn in front. First ridge has now been formed. Next row (RS): K to last stitch, slip last stitch as if to purl with yarn in front. Next row (WS): K27, DD, k26, slip last stitch as if to purl with yarn in front. Second ridge has now been formed. Repeat last 2 rows in this manner, having one less stitch on either side of mitre every RS row, and working the DD every WS row. When 3 stitches are left, work the Right Side row as usual and work the Wrong Side row as only the DD. Follow Diagram A for ridge/color sequence.

Shawl/Throw: Bottom Course- G1, G2, G3 and G4: Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. Working V squares and joining to G squares: V1: Cast on 29 +1 stitches, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of G1. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. V2: Pick up and k29 stitches alongside B of G1, cast on 1 stitch, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of G2. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. V3: Pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of G2, cast on 1 stitch, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of G3. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. V4: Pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of G3, cast on 1 stitch, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of G4. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. V5: Pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of G4, cast on 1 plus 29 stitches. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch.

Top Course - G5, G6, G7, and G8: Work Basic square and fasten off last stitch. Working V squares and joining to G squares: V6: Cast on 29+1 stitches, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of G5. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. V7: Pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of G5, cast on 1 stitch, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of G6. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. V8: Pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of G6, cast on 1 stitch, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of G7. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. V9: Pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of G7, cast on 1 stitch, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of G8. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. V10: Pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of G8, cast on 1 + 29 stitches. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch.

Joining Bottom and Top Courses of G and V to Middle Course of P: P1: Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. Sew side A of P1 to side B of V10, and side B of P1 to side A of V1. P2: Pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of V2, cast on 1 stitch, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of V9. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. Sew side A of P2 to side B of V1; sew side B of P2 to side A to V10. P3: Pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of V3, cast on 1 stitch, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of V8. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. Sew side A of P3 to side B of V2; sew side B of P3 to side A of V9. P4: Pick up and k 29 stitches alongside A of V8, cast on 1 stitch, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of V3. Work basic square and place last stitch on pin. Sew side A of V7, k the stitch from pin, pick up and k 29 stitches alongside B of V4. Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. Sew side A of P5 to side B of V6; sew side B of P5 to side A of V5. P6: Work basic square and fasten off last stitch. Sew side A of P6 to side B of V5; sew side B of P6 to side A of V6.

Edging: With RS facing, crochet hook and black, starting at point of P1, *single crochet into slip stitch or coast on stitch, chain 5, skip 1 stitch; rep from *around entire perimeter of piece. Fasten off.

Steeking

Steeking enable you to work a piece in the round creating a tube of fabric and then cut the fabric to add the arms, create an open cardigan, or add a collar. Yes I did say cut your knitting. This technique only works on animal fiber yarns because they will felt with time. Do not try to steek acrylic, cotton, bamboo, linen, or anything except animal fibers. The line of stitches that you cut is known as the steek.

Steeking is traditionally used in Fair Isle knitting. It is much easier to knit a tube of fabric and then add the arms than it is to try and keep the pattern intact and shape the arm holes. You can also use a steek to add ribbing, a collar, or a button band by slipping the steeked stitches onto the needle and continue knitting on the addition.

If you look at a knitted fabric you will see the knit stitches form a V. It is between the two legs of this V that you will cut. But before you start cutting you will need to reinforce the steek. There are two methods for reinforcing a steek. The first method involves a sewing machine while the second method employs a crochet hook and yarn.

If you want to use a sewing machine run a line of stitches down both legs of each stitch that sandwiches the steek. In other words sew a line vertically down one leg and then the other leg of the stitch to the left of the steek. Now do the same with the stitch to the right of the steek.

If you prefer to use a crochet hook surface crochet a line up one side of the steek, and down the other side sandwiching in the loop which will form the steek between the two lines of crochet. To surface crochet make a slip knot and place it on your hook. Insert the hook into the first stitch, yarn over and draw it back through the fabric and then through the slip knot. Insert the hook into the next stitch directly above the first one, yarn over, pull through the fabric and then through the 2 loops on your hook. Continue to do this until you get to the top of your fabric, yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop on the crochet hook, cut the yarn and tighten the last stitch. Repeat this process on the other side of the steek.

Now that you have both sides reinforced you can cut your fabric. Gently pull the fabric apart so that you can see the loop to cut. With sharp shears carefully cut up the line between the legs of the stitches to form the steek. Once you have it cut, the steek will naturally fold back upon itself. Your stitches are secure and will not unravel. In time the edges will felt and become quite secure.

You can now sew on arms, a collar, work an edge to create a cardigan, or even sew on a zipper. You can view the video I have listed in the back of this book. She shows a very detailed method to steek material and I find watching videos a great way to clarify how to do various techniques.

Life Lines

Life lines are a great advanced technique to learn. Life lines are used in a lot of different applications from cable patterns to lace patterns. They help you keep track of what row you are on, and if you make a mistake you don’t have to rip out the entire piece, but only to the life line. As you advance in your skills you will find life lines will save you time and your sanity.

To use a life line thread a tapestry needle with a contrasting color of yarn. As mentioned before each knit stitch has 2 legs which form a V. Place the needle under the second leg of the first stitch and pull the yarn through. Don’t worry about knotting the yarn, you won’t be knitting with it or keeping it in your fabric. Skip the first leg of the next stitch and insert the needle under the second leg and pull the yarn through. Continue to do this across the row making sure the lifeline is straight and you are on the same row of stitches. Mark on your pattern which row you placed the life line, and as you move up the pattern pull the life line out and place it closer to your needles and mark your pattern.

If you find a mistake in your work you can unravel down to the life line and not have to worry about the stitches unravelling or having to rip out all of your work. You will know exactly what row you are on and can then start your pattern again.

The stitches and techniques I included in this chapter are just the very surface of advanced techniques and stitches. I encourage you to search out new stitches and techniques so that you can advance even further in your knitting skills. I have included some links at the end of this book that offer free and paid tutorials plus free patterns.

Chapter Five – Fun Yarns

There are lots of fun yarns you can use to create unique and creative effects in your knitted projects. Eyelash yarn has little furry eyelash fibers which add fun and texture. You use these yarns along with medium weight or bulky yarns and hold them together knitting 2 strands at once. Lion Brand Fun Fur is another example of a fun yarn. When knitted up it looks like plush fur. You can use it to knit a scarf, or as an accent on your knit projects. There are lots of fun yarns you can find in shops to experiment with. Many of them can be used alone, or in conjunction with regular weight yarn.

Here’s an example of a scarf knitted using Fun Fur Yarn. You can find the pattern for free on the Lion Brand website.

Red Heart Boutique Sashay Yarn

Ruffle yarn is another favorite fun yarn to knit with. One example is Red Heart Sashay line of yarn. When knitted this yarn forms pretty ruffles which can be used to create ruffled scarves, accents on bags, accents on pillows, and skirts. There are many different types of ruffle yarn and each one gives you a different look.

Positive Pink Ruffles Scarf

Pattern Link: http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/positive-pink-ruffles

Knitting with Sashay yarn is very easy. When you look at the yarn you will see there is a decorative edge and an edge with what looks like tracks. The track edge is what you use when you knit. Use the loops of the track as stitches. The more loops you skip as you knit the more of a ruffled effect you will get. This pattern is for a very pretty scarf. You can use the yarn listed, or any one of the Sashay yarns you like.

You will need1 ball of Red Heart Boutique Sashay in Tutu, and US size 9 (5.5mm) needles along with a sewing needle and matching thread. Gauge is not important for this project. Scarf measures 4 inches by 62 inches with changes for a 38 inch scarf in parentheses.

Scarf

Beginning at the top right edge, insert tip of a knitting needle from back to front starting 4inchesfrom end and using top row of holes (railroad tracks). Inert your needle five more times skipping a hole in between each insert. Cast on 10 stitches onto the left needle. Knit each stitch skipping a hole between stitches. Turn at the end of each row. You may have to open up the mesh and untwist the yarn as you knit. Leave 24 inches for binding off.

Finishing

Bind off stitches and pull the yarn through the last bound stitch and trim the yarn leaving a four inche tail. Fold the ends under and tack with needle and thread.

End Note

All of the patterns I have included in this book that is not mine can be found for free on the internet. I have given credit to the original designers where I could, and the attributions for the images I use in this book can be found at the end of this book. Many thanks go out to the wonderful designers and teachers who have help add to the wonderful content in this book they have shared for free.

And many thanks to you for purchasing this book. I hope it has taught you new techniques to expand your knitting skills, and prompted you keep exploring the fun and creative world of knitting.

All my best!

Attributions and Resources

All images shared on Flickr are used under the Creative Commons License 2.0 unless otherwise specified.

All images for patterns can be found at the pattern link included in the text.

Chart Symbols and Pattern Examples
http://wendyknits.net/2009/06/03/how-to-read-a-chart/

Wendy Knits; Adventures with Sticks and Strings

Knitting Chart Symbols
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/chart_knit.html

Craft Yarn Council

Cabled Toddler Hat Images and Pattern
http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/cabled-toddler-hat

Red Heart

Intarsia Example
https://www.flickr.com/photos/katemonkey/3408314091

Image shared on Flickr by Kate Bolin

Intarsia Stitch Examples
www.purlbee.com/2008/06/30/intarsia/

Purl Bee Blog

Intarsia Tulip Chart
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/patterns/motiftulipchart.htm

Image from Knitting on the Net Chart designed by Barbara Breiter

Fair Isle Wrong Side Example
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lydialark/8044477548

Image shared on Flickr by lkonstanski

Fair Isle Right Side Example
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lydialark/8044477174

Image shared on Flickr by lkonstanski

Example of How to Hold Yarn for Fair Isle
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVMPaHJYdv0

Image from video How to do Fair Isle Knitting by KnittingHelp.com at 2:04

Popcorn or Bobble Stitch Example
http://newstitchaday.com/popcorn-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Machine Sewn and Crocheted Steek
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-make-steeks-for-cutting-after-knitting-in-t.html

Image from Dummies.com

Videos

Knitting Basics: Continental Knitting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9XImtoQmZ8

KnittingHelp.com

Stranded Knitting: It’s Easier than You Think
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQlc4UQWuzc

Deborah Tomasello

How to Do Fair Isle Knitting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVMPaHJYdv0

KnittingHelp.com

How to Knit the Popcorn/Bobble Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xi7d7dCeDig

New Stitch a Day

Knitting Help – Steeking
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vno-cMURQjc

Very Pink Knits

Advanced Knitting Technique – Life Line
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aD9X9LEoJ6E

Days of Twine and Cozies

Boutique Sashay Collection by Red Heart
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=672lSp8bXkE

Red Heart Yarns

Learn How to Knit with Sashay from Red Heart Yarns
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVA4OjNAIjc

Red Heart Yarns

Get to Know Fun Fur Yarn
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsbKcfGTX-w

Lion Brand Yarns

Resources

Knit Symbols Used on Charts from the Craft Yarn Council
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/chart_knit.html

This site is a wealth of information for every level of knitter. You can find conversion charts for needle sizes, symbol and abbreviations used in knitting, and much more.

Library of Knitting Stitches
http://www.knittingonthenet.com/stitches.htm

On this site you can find links to around a hundred different knitting stitches with pictures and instructions for each one.

Freckles & Purls
http://frecklesandpurls.com/

A great site full of ideas, patterns, and fellowship I found through the Very Pink site. She has patterns you can purchase, but she also posts free patterns from time to time. The Entrelac scarf pattern in this book was designed by Allison LoCicero, the owner of this site.

Very Pink

Website: http://verypink.com/

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/verypinkknits

Staci has a complete website chock full of information and patterns. Her YouTube channel is a goldmine of information and I used many of her videos to illustrate some of the stitches and techniques in this book. She’s fun to watch and is very easy to follow in her videos. She uploads new videos each Wednesday.

Sapphires-n-Purls The Weekly Stitch

Blog: http://www.sapphiresnpurls.com/

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/iknitwithcatfur

Each week a new stitch is loaded up onto this YouTube channel. This was another channel that helped me understand and illustrate some of the stitches and techniques covered in this book. She uploads new videos each Friday.

New Stitch a Day

Website: http://newstitchaday.com

Video Stitchionary: http://newstitchaday.com/video-stitchionary/

If you need to see how to make a stitch this is the place to visit. This is a collection instructional videos on basic stitches. Follow the links to learn more advances stitches and skills.  Be sure to visit the website and blog for more information, patterns, and classes. They charge for the classes, but the majority if information on here is free.

The Weekly Stitch

Website: http://www.theweeklystitch.com/

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1he-q7dTSmN5p0UyVmrMfQ

Such a wealth of information on this blog! Every week she shares a new stitch complete with written instructions, a picture of a sample of the stitches and a video embedded right into the blog post for you to learn how to do the featured stitch. Her YouTube channel is iknitwithcatfur and I found a lot of stitches there to share in this book.

Online Knitting Terms and Stitch Glossary
http://www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary/

Use this handy reference for knitting terms and stitches from Knitting Daily.

Knit Picks
http://www.knitpicks.com/

Here you will find materials to purchase as well as tutorials for all levels of knitting. The instructions in their tutorials are clear and the illustrations very easy to understand. I used many of the images in this eBook from site. They also have a wide array of videos so that you can increase your skills.

Lion Brand Yarn
http://learntoknit.lionbrand.com/

Filled with instructions and lots of information about knitting and yarn this site is very helpful and a great place to order yarn and find free patterns.

Red Heart
http://redheart.com

Not only can you find quality yarn at a great price on this site, but you can also find hundreds of free patterns to download. Be sure to sign up for their free newsletter to find out the latest trends in yarn and knitting.

All Free Knitting
http://www.allfreeknitting.com/

This site is the mother lode of free patterns. You can set up an account and save your favorite patterns, add notes, and be sure to sign up for their free weekly newsletter.

Knitting Help.com
http://www.knittinghelp.com/

Here you’ll find a great site full of instructional videos, online store, free patterns, and much more.

Interweave
http://www.interweave.com/

This is another great site full of patterns, information, an online store, and forums to connect with other knitting enthusiasts.

Expert Knitting

By Susan Wilters

Contents

Chapter One – Expert Techniques

Chapter Two – Lace

Chapter Three – Entrelac Knitting

Chapter Four – Expert Garment Tips

Patterns

Attributions and Resources

Thank you for purchasing the third book in my knitting series. In this book we’ll learn how to bring your knitting up to the expert level with expert stitches and techniques. We’ll also take the mystery out of lace and Entrelac knitting. In each chapter I will share some free knitting patterns with you to help you practice your new skills.

This volume is geared toward advanced and intermediate knitters that want to learn expert techniques and stitches to add to their skills. I hope you enjoy this book, and thanks again for purchasing it!

Chapter One – Expert Techniques

In this chapter we’ll cover some expert techniques to help give your projects a professional look. We’ll learn how to use the provisional cast to create a crisp edge and knit a scarf from the middle out. I will share some expert stitches that really work up nicely, and we’ll discuss how to get the correct size when making garments and some tricks to help your garments fit better. Ready? I am so let’s begin!

Provisional Cast On

The provisional cast on is a handy technique to use when you’re not sure if you have enough yarn, if you want to add a crochet edge to your work, and if you need to work a scarf of other project from the inside out. You may want to use this technique on complicated graph patterns or Fair Isle scarves in order to work the graph easily. The first version we’ll learn about uses a chain of crochet stitches as the base for the cast on stitches.

First you will need a crochet hook and some yarn that is the same weight or heavier than the yarn you plan to knit with. Crochet a chain about six inches longer than you need for the cast on stitches. (If you need to learn to crochet a chain you can watch this video tutorial from New Stitch a Day.) Crochet the chain rather loosely because you’ll be slipping your needle into the back of the chain to work the cast on stitches. Leave the last chain loose and place a stitch marker in it to secure it and cut your yarn.

When you look at the crochet chain you will see that like knitting crochet stitches also form a V. Turn the chain on its side and you will see an extra loop on the back of the stitches. This is the loop we’ll be working with, not the top loops which form the V. The back loops look like little bumps across the back of the chain.

Start at the second back loop and insert your needle into this loop. Wrap the yarn around your needle just like you are going to knit a stitch and pull the yarn through the loop of the crochet chain. Move to the next loop to your left and repeat. Repeat this process until you have worked all of the way across the crochet chain. You can now knit the cast on stitches as normal.

You can also use this technique to graft one piece of knitting to another. This is a good technique to use if you are making an infinity scarf or working in the round. Use the same method, but instead of using a crochet chain you would pick up the stitches from the loops on the edge of the fabric you need to graft onto your live work. If you have more stitches on your needles than you can find on the edge of the piece you are grafting, use the outside edge loops of the grafting piece as stitches. Of course your stitch count must be only a few stitches off for this method to work.

If you are using this method to start from the middle of a scarf, simply pull the loose end of yarn which is attached to the open loop to remove the crochet chain. It will come right out and you will have all of your stitches on your needle and be ready to continue to knit. Provisional cast on is handy expert technique to master, and once you get the hang of it you can do it in flat knitting or when knitting in the round.

Open Provisional Cast On Method

If you don’t want to use a crochet chain to create a provisional cast on you can use either a needle twice as large the needle size you pattern calls for or two needles held together. You will also need a long piece of sturdy yarn larger than the weight of yarn you will use for your knitted piece. Cut a long piece of the spare yarn (you will be pulling the cast on stitches from your ball of working yarn). Hold the needles and the spare yarn in your right hand.

Make a slip knot with the working yarn andslip it onto the needle or needles. Pull the spare yarn in front of the working yarn and pull it down. Now pull the working yarn up and over the needles. Pull the spare yarn in front of the working yarn again and then pull the working yarn up and over the needle capturing the spare yarn creating a cast on stitch on the needle.

Once you have the correctnumber of stitchescast onto your needles it should look like this:

You can now transfer the stitches onto your working needle leaving the spare yarn in place.

Once you’re ready to work on the provisional cast on stitches simply slip your needle into the stitches and remove the spare yarn.

Brioche Stitch

The Brioche stitch is not only very attractive but works up to be a warm and lofty. It can be worked with one color of yarn, or use two for a very stunning effect. The fabric does not roll and lays flat so it is perfect for scarves. When you use two colors you get a pattern in which the ribs and background contrast each other.

When working with the Brioche stitch remember the pattern is worked in sets of two rows. Begin by casting on an odd number of stitches. The first and last stitches of each row are knitted to create a selvage edge.

On row one slip the first stitch knitwise; knit 2 together, pull the yarn forward and slip the next stitch. Repeat until you reach the last three stitches and then knit 2 together and knit one.

For row two begin by slipping the first stitch knitwise, pull the yarn forward and slip one stitch, knit 2 together, and repeat until you get to the last two stitches. For the last two stitches pull your yarn forward, slip one stitch, and knit the last stitch. Repeat rows one and two until you reach the desired length.

The second row is worked by slipping the first stitch knit wise, pull your yarn forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 2 together and repeat this pattern to the last 2 stitches. Pull your yarn forward, slip 1 stitch, and knit the last stitch. Repeat these two rows until your work is the desired length.

In a pattern the stitch will look like this:

Row 1: Sl 1 knit wise, * k2tog, yf, sl 1* to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1

Row 2: Sl 1 knit wise, *yf, sl 1, k2tog* to last 2 stitches, yf, sl 1, k1

When you use two colors to knit the Brioche stitch one color is worked across a row and then you pick up the second color and knit back across the row. Alternate colors each timeyou reach the end of the row. Do not cut your yarn at the end of the rows, simply let it rest and then pick it up again and twist it around the new color to secure it before you form the first stitch. Two color Brioche stitch is worked in a four row pattern. On rows two and three you yarn over purlwise and use purl stitches instead of knit. One side of the fabric will have each color highlighted in dual-colored Brioche.

Two color Brioche looks like this written out as a pattern:

Setup Row: using CC, Sl 1 knit wise, *K 1, yf, sl 1* to last stitch two stitches, K 2. Do not turn work.

Row 1: using MC - Sl 1 purlwise, *sl 1 wyif, yb and yf, p2tog* to last 2 stitches, sl 1 wyif, yb and yf, p1

Row 2: Turn work, using CC, sl 1 purlwise, *p2tog, sl 1 wyif, yb and yf* to last 3 stitches, p2tog, P 1

Row 3: Do not turn work, using MC - sl 1 knit wise, *yf, sl 1, k2tog* to last 2 stitches, yf, sl 1, K 1

Row 4: Turn work, using CC, sl 1 knit wise, *k2tog, yf, sl 1* to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. Do not turn work.

I recommend you use a lifeline for this stitch since it would be impossible to tell where you were in the pattern if you make a mistake.

Color Works and Cables

Cables add interest and texture to knitting. No doubt by now you’re pretty proficient at creating cables, but have you ever considered using color work when creating cables? If not it is a very pretty way to add some color contrast and create intricate patterns in your knitting. The way you work color into cables is very similar to Intarsia knitting.

In this image you can see that as you work a cable graph the yellow and green cables overlap each other alternatively. Knit the cables in the exact same way as you usually do, but one leg of the cable is knitted with yellow yarn, and the other one is knitted with green yarn.

For example if the green leg is to be dominate you would pull the green cable stitches to the front of your work as you knit the yellow leg, and then knit the green stitches off of the cable needle. When the yellow leg is to be in front, pull the yellow stitches to the front and knit them off the cable needle at the appropriate time.

Pick up and drop the colors as you need them. If you have more than one cable then you will need separate bobbins or balls of yarn for each color change in the cables. You do not carry the yarn across the back of your work, but use the Intarsia method of changing colors.

Mosaic Knitting

Mosaic knitting is very similar to Fair Isle in the way it looks and is knitted. But instead of using knit or purl stitches to form color changes, you use the slip stitch. As you work across each row only the active yarn is knitted, the other yarn is slip stitched. It sounds a bit confusing, but it is really very easy once you understand how the patterns work.

Mosaic knitting uses charts, but you read the charts in a different manner than for Fair Isle or Intarsia. No matter if you are flat knitting or knitting in the round you read the chart from right to left. Traditionally you would only use two colors in Mosaic knitting and slip no more than three stitches at once. All stitches are knitted, and all slip stitches are done purlwise.

In this chart from Veridgris Knits for their four-heart pattern, the pattern is a 12 stitch/21 row repeat. As you work across the chart the colored squares are slip stitched and the white squares are knitted.

Start at row one and work across from right to left, turn your work and then return to the right side and work across from right to left for each row. For example in Row 1 slip the first stitch purlwise with color 1. Knit 1 stitch with color 2, and then slip 3 stiches purlwise with color 1. Knit 1 with color 2, slip 3 stitches purlwise with color 2, knit 1 with color 2, slip purlwise 1 stitch with color 1 and finish off the row with 1 knit stitch in color 2.

Turn your work and then return to the right side of the pattern and reverse the colors. The next row starts with knit 2 with color 1, slip stitch purlwise with color 2, knit 1 with color 1, slip stitch purlwise with color 2, knit and slip stitch 2 more times, and end up with knit 3 with color 1.

Each time you turn your work you will reverse the colors and work right to left. This is a very pretty example of socks made with Mosaic knitting and cables.

Double Knitting

Double knitting creates a mirror image on each side of the fabric. You can create some really fun and exciting designs with double knitting. The fabric is very plush and thick making it perfect for winter garments and home accessories. When double knitting you use two strands of yarn held together as you knit, but you pull the colors forward and back to form patterns on both sides of the fabric.

When you are using the double knitting technique you always need to cast on an even number of stitches. Alternate the colors as you cast on until you reach the number of stitches desired. Most knitters like to use the long tail cast on for double knitting, but you can use which ever method you like the best. Start and end with the same color. The first two and last two cast on stitches will count as one stitch.

Double knitting uses charts to form patterns. You can flat knit or knit in the round with this technique. Charts are read right to left, and then left to right for flat knitting, and right to left for each round when knitting in the round.

After you cast on an even number of stitches slip the first two stitches knitwise (this actually counts as one stitch). With both strands of yarn in the back of the work knit the next stitch with color 1. Pull both yarns forward and purl the next stitch with color 2. Pull both yarns to the back and knit with color 1 again, and pull both yarns to the front and purl with color 2. Work your way across the row and when you get to the last two stitches pull both strands to the front and purl them as one stitch. Turn your work and repeat across the next row. When you finish two rows you will see how one side is made of knit stitches in color 1, and one side is made of knit stitches in color 2. The purl stitches are sandwiched between the two colors and are not seen. The first stitch is always a slip stitch using both colors, and the last stitch is a purl stitch using both colors.

When you come to the point where you need to work that pattern follow the chart and pull both yarns to the back or the front and knit using the color called for in the chart. I’ve included a link to a great video by Very Pink Knits that shows you exactly how to do this technique.

Knitting Lace Shawls from the Outside Edge In

I really like the look of lace knitting. Shawls made with lace stitches look so delicate and beautiful once they are completed and blocked. Have you ever considered knitting a shawl from the outside edge in?

In her video, How to Knit Short Row Scalloped Edging for Lace Cape, Kristin Omdahl shows us how to begin a shawl with a scalloped edge from the outer edge in. The edge is knitted in short rows and when you complete one scallop you knit cast on more stitches and knit the next scallop until you have knitted the entire edge of the shawl. This is a really handy technique you could use with almost any edging stitch.

In her example she cast on 19 stitches and started with a few stitches gradually picking up more cast on stitches until she had 19 in her row. For example the first row is knit across the 19 stitches. The second row is knit 10 stitches and turn. Then the third row is only knit 2 and turn. The fourth row is knit 3, and each row you add a stitch until you reach 19. At this point you then knit cast on 19 more stitches and repeated the process until she had the number of scallops you need for her shawl’s edge. You can find the link to her video at the end of this book. I recommend you watch it and learn this really handy technique.

Chapter Two – Lace

Lace knitting creates beautiful fabrics perfect for shawls, garments, and home décor items. Lace is knitted with very light weight yarn such as fingerling yarn. In this chapter we’ll go over some pretty lace stitches to familiarize you with the beauty and fun of creating knitted lace projects.

In lace patterns you will see the abbreviations ssk and p2sso. Ssk stands for slip slip knit: slip the first and second stitches knitwise and then insert the left needle tip in front of both stitches and knit together. P2sso is the pass two slip stitch over: insert the needle into the front of the second and first stitches on the left needle knitwise but do not knit them. Slip them both over once and knit the next stitch on the left hand needle. Insert the point of the left needle into both slipped stitches and draw them over the knit stitch and off of the right hand needle.

Rick Rack Rib Stitch

This stitch is knitted in a two row pattern. First cast on an even number of stitches.

Row one starts on the right side: knit 1, *yarn over, slip stitch, knit 1, psso (pass slip stitch over), repeat from *, end with knit one.

Row two: purl 1, *yarn over, slip with yarn in front, purl one, psso, repeat from * and end with a purl one.

Star Rib Mesh Stitch

The star rib mesh stitch is a four row repeat. First cast on multiples of four plus one.  Row one is the wrong side. Purl across the row.

Row two: knit one, * yarn over, slip two stitches knitwise knit one p2sso, yarn over, knit one * repeat from *

Row three: purl

Row four: ssk, yarn over, knit one * yarn over slip two knitwise knit one p2sso, yarn over knit one * repeat from * end with a yarn over and k2tog

Simple Lace Stitch

This is a two row pattern and you start by casting on multiples of four plus two.

Row one: knit one, * k2tog, yarn over twice, k2togh * repeat to last stitch and knit one.

Row two: purl one, * purl two, knit one, purl one * repeat to last stitch and purl one.

Double Herringbone Stitch

This stitch is done in a 12 row repeat and begins with casting on a panel of 21 stitches.

Row one is the wrong side and purl across the row.

Row two: knit two (yarn over, ssk) three times. Yarn over, slip one k2tog psso, (yarn over k2tog) four times, yarn over, knit two.

Row three: purl across the row

Row four: knit three (yarn over, ssk) three times. Yarn over, slip one k2tog psso, (yarn over k2tog) three times, yarn over, knit three.

Row five: purl across the row

Row six: knit three (yarn over, ssk) twice times. Yarn over, slip one k2tog psso, (yarn over k2tog) twice times, yarn over, knit two.

Row seven: purl across the row

Row eight: knit two, k2togh, yarn over, knit one, (yarn over, ssk) twice, yarn over slip one k2tog psso, (yarn over, k2tog) twice, yarn over, knit one, yarn over, ssk, knit two.

Row nine: purl across the row

Row ten: knit one, k2tog, yarn over, knit three, yarn over, ssk, yarn over slip one k2tog psso, (yarn over, k2tog) twice, yarn over, knit three, yarn over ssk, knit one.

Row eleven: purl across the row

Row twelve: k2tog, yarn over, knit five, yarn over, ssk, yarn over, slip one k2tog psso, yarn over, k2tog, yarn over, knit five, yarn over, ssk.

Fern Lace Stitch

The fern lace stitch starts with casting on sets of nine stitches plus four. It is worked in a four row pattern and the first row is the wrong side. Purl the first and third row.

Row two: knit three, * yarn over, knit two, slip one stitch, ppso, k2tog, knit two, yarn over, knit one * repeat to last stitch and knit one.

Row four: knit two *yarn over, knit two, slip one stitch, knit one, psso, k2tog, knit two, yarn over, knit one * repeat to last two stitches, knit two.

Shetland Eyelet Panel Stitch

The Shetland eyelet panel stitch is worked in an eight row repeat. Begin by casting on 9 stitch groups. All even rows are purled across the row (Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8).

Row one: On the right side, knit two, k2tog, yarn over, knit one, yarn over slip one stitch, knit one, psso, knit two.

Row three: knit one, k2tog, yarn over, knit three, yarn over, slip one stitch, psso, knit one

Row five: knit one, yarn over, slip one stitch, knit one, psso, yarn over, slip two stitches knitwise, knit one, p2soo, yarn over, k2tog, yarn over, knit one.

Row seven: knit 3, yarn over, slip two stitches knitwise, knit one, p2sso, yarn over, knit three
k3, yo, sl 2 knitwise, k1, p2sso, yo, k3.

Diagonal Lace Stitch

This unique stitch is an 8 row repeat. It uses the p2tog tbl stitch which is purl two together through the back loop. Being by casting on sets of 8 plus 4, and row one is the right side.

Row one: knit two, * yarn over, slip one, knit one, psso, knit one, k2tog, yarn over,knit three * repeatto last twostitches and knit two.

Row two: purl seven * p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl six * repeat to last five stitches: p2tog, yarn over, purl three.

Row three: knit four, *yarn over, slip one stitch, knit one, psso, knit one, k2tog, yarn over, knit three *repeat to end of row.

Row four: purl five, * p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl six * repeat to last seven stitches: p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl five.

Row five: knit one, * k2tog, yarn over, knit three, yarn over, slip one, knit one, psso, knit one * repeat to last three stitches: k2tog, yarn over, knit one.

Row six: purl three, * p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl six * repeat to last stitch and purl one.

Row seven: knit three, * k2tog, yarn over, knit three, yarn over, slip one stitch, knit one, psso, knit one * repeat to last stitch: knit one.

Row eight: purl one, * p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl six * repeat to last three stitches: p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl one.

Cat’s Eye Stitch

The cat’s eye lace stitch is a three row repeat and begins by casting on multiples of 4.

Row one: Row one is the right side: purl two, * yarn over, p2tog * repeat to last two stitches and purl two.

Row two:knit two, * knit one, (knit one, purl one, knit one) in the yarn over of previous row,repeat from * to the lasttwo stitches and knit two.

Row three: Knit across the row

Lacy Openwork Stitch

The lacy openwork stitch is knitted with a two row repeat and begins with casting on multiples of four plus one.

Row one: knit one, *yarn over, p3tog, yarn over, knit one * repeat to end of row.

Row two: p2tog, yarn over, *p3tog, yarn over, knit one, yarn over * repeat to last two stitches and p2tog.

Bird’s Eye Stitch

The bird’s eye stitch is knitted in a four row repeat and begins with casting on multiples of four.

Row one is the wrong side: * k2tog, yarn over twice, k2tog * repeat to end of row

Row two: * knit one (knit one, purl one) into two yarn overprevious row, knit one * repeatto end of row.

Row three: knit two, * k2tog, yarn over twice, k2tog * repeat to last two stitches and knit two.

Row four: knit two, (knit one, purl one) into two yarn over of previous row, knit one * repeat to last two stitches and knit two.

Tips for Lace Knitting

Always use a lifeline when knitting lace. Dental floss makes a very good lifeline for lace knitting since it is very thin and flexible. Think ribbon also makes a good lifeline for lace knitting. If you knit a lace edging onto a project insert the lifeline at the point where you pick up the live stitches. This will help you greatly if you need to undo any part of the edging.

Use stitch markers to keep track of all pattern repeats. This tip will really help you keep track of where you are in the pattern. This way if you get distracted in the middle of a pattern repeat you can pick up exactly where you should in the repeat.

If you are using a chart make a copy of it and use highlighters to help you keep track of where you are in the pattern. Highlight each row or round as you complete it. You can also highlight pattern repeats to help you work the chart.

Use Post-It notes to keep track of what row you are one in a chart. You can easily move them up as you work.

Practice a new lace pattern with medium weight yarn. Instead of trying to learn a new pattern with fingerling lace yarn and small needles, practice with a heavier weight yarn and larger needles so that the yarn is easier to handle and you can see the pattern better.

Bamboo needles are excellent choices for lace knitting especially if you are using a wool yarn which can be a bit sticky. Bamboo lets the yarn slide easily off your needles. Also no matter what type of needles you use, make sure the ends are good and pointy.

Chapter Three – Entrelac Knitting

Entrelac knitting looks very complicated, but it really isn’t. The pattern works up to create a basket weave effect and is knitted in short rows. Instead of going across the entire row you work each section of the pattern separately. The triangles diamonds form tiers which interlock and make it look like you have woven the entire piece of knitting together. This is one technique that will really wow your friends and family.

To understand how to get started let’s take a look at this image. The first tier consists of triangles. Each one is knitted separately. The second tier starts with a triangle, then three diamonds, and ends with another triangle. The fourth tier of this pattern consists of four diamonds. This pattern repeats to create the beautiful Entrelac technique of making Afghans, hats, sweaters, scarves, and home décor projects. You can change colors with each tier or diamond, or an easier way to get color changes is to use a long strand variegated yarn. This is a very versatile technique to learn, and once you understand the basics it is fun and easy.

To illustrate and learn the Entrelac technique we will be using Lion Brand Yarn’s pattern Baby Entrelac Blanket.

You will need one ball each for colors A, B, C, D, an E. The pattern uses Vanna’s Choice yarn in Pink, Mustard, Dusty Green, Beige, and Silver Blue but you can use any medium weight yarn in the colors of your choice. You will also need size 10 (6mm) needles, size H/5 (5mm) crochet hook, stitch markers, and a tapestry needle.

Gauge for the pattern is 14 stitches and 18 rows equal four inches. Blanket will be about 28 by 32 inches when completed.

Row 1: On the right side knit 2 and turn.

On each even row you purl back across and turn. So for Row 2 purl 2 and turn.

Row 3: knit 3, turn

Row 5: knit 3 ssk, turn

Row 7: knit 5 turn

Row 9: knit 5, ssk, turn

Row 11: knit 7, turn

Row 13: knit 9 and place a marker for the end of this triangle and do not turn your work. Repeat until you have six triangles.

The last triangle is worked as follows:

Repeat Rows 1 through 10.

Row 11: knit 4, k2tog, turn

Row 12 and 14: purl across and turn

Row 13: knit 3, k2tog, turn

Row 15: knit 2, k2tog, turn

Row 16: On the wrong side sk2p, do not turn and leave one stitch on the right needle and change colors.

Now your work should look similar to this and the first tier will look a bit wonky and strange.

Now we’re ready to start on tier two. It starts with a triangle, then five diamonds, and ends up with a triangle.

First Triangle:

One the wrong side pick up and purl 8 stitches evenly along the edge of the first triangle. You will have a total of nine stitches on your needle, turn your work.

On all odd number rows (1-15) knit to the end and turn.

On all even number rows (2-14) purl 8, p2togh, and turn.

Row 16: purl 8,p3tog, place marker for end of block, and do not turn.

Next Diamond:

Still on the wrong side pickup and purl 9 stitches evenly along the edge of the next triangle and turn your work.

Now work Rows 1-5 of the first block. Repeat until five more times.

Last Triangle:

On all odd rows (1-15) knit to the end and turn.

On all even rows (2-14) purl to the last 2 stitches and then p2tog, and turn.

Row 16: p2tog, and turn. Change colors.

Row 17 on the right side knit 1 and do not turn. Leave 1 stitch on the right needle.

You are now ready to begin the third tier, and you begin with the first diamond. Still on the right side pick up and knit 8 stitches along the first block. You will have 9 stitches on the right needle, turn your work.

On all odd rows (1-15) purl to the end and turn.

On all even rows (2-14) knit 8, ssk, and turn.

Row 16: knit 8, sk2p, and place marker for the end of the block. Do not turn.

Repeat this five more times.

Last Triangle:

Still on the right side pickup and knit 9 stitches along the edge of the last block and turn your work.

On all odd rows (1-15) purl to the end and turn.

On all even rows (2-14) knit to the last 2 stitches, ssk, and turn.

Row 16: ssk, and turn, change color.

Row 17: On the wrong side purl 1 and do not turn, leaving 1 stitch on the right needle.

Tiers 4 through 19 are worked same as the previous tier. Change color with each tier and always leave 1 stitch on your right needle. The color sequence for the pattern is *A, B, C, E, D; rep from *.  You will be working on the sides of the previous tier’s diamonds for each new diamond.

Last Tier:

The last tier is another group of triangles to finish off the blanket and make it rectangular.

Last Row of Triangles

With color D on the wrong side pick up 8 stitches and purl along the edge of the block for a total of 9 stitches and turn.

On the odd rows (1-15) knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog and turn

On the even rows (2-14) purl to the last 2 stitches, k2tog and turn

Row 16: p3tog and do not turn leaving 1 stitch on the needle.

Repeat this six more times.

Last Triangle:

On the wrong side pick up and purl 8 stitches along the edge of the last block and turn

On the odd rows (1-7) knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog, and turn

On the even rows (2-8) purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog, and turn.

Fasten off.

Edging:

Attach color D anywhere on the blanket and with the crochet hook work a crab stitch (reverse single crochet) along the edge of the entire blanket. Work in your tails. To work the crab stitch form a slip knot and place it on the crochet hook. Insert the hook into an edge stitch, yarn over, and pull through the fabric and through the slip knot on the hook. Instead of working left to right, you will be working right to left. Insert the hook into the next stitch to the left, yarn over and pull through the fabric, yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on the hook. Repeat this until you reach the beginning crochet stitch, insert the hook through the beginning crochet stitch, yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook. Cut the yarn and pull the tail through the loop of the last stitch. Visit New Stitch a Day to learn this stitch.

Entrelac is fun to learn and even more fun one you master it.Here are some tips to help you get started.

The first tier is the hardest. This is because you want to knit across the row, but with Entrelac each triangle is knitted separately. The first tier will also want to bunch and pull. This is normal. If your work looks and feels strange, you’ve probably done it correctly.

Each tier is built upon the tier before it. Because you knit each diamond and triangle on its own you work from the sides of the previous row. Each time you need to knit a new diamond or triangle you pick up the stiches from the one below it. Actually you sort of work on a slant. It’s hard to spell out, but once you get into the pattern you’ll understand what I mean.

The first and last tiers of all Entrelac patterns consist of triangle. Subsequent tiers are made up of a right triangle, center diamonds, and a left triangle. This is followed by a tier of diamonds. This pattern repeats until you get to the last tier of your project.

You can make your projects as wide and as long as you like. All you have to do is vary the number of triangles and diamonds in each tier and work as many tiers as you need. For example a scarf may be 4 diamonds wide and several tiers while an Afghan or baby blanket will have more diamonds across and less rows.

Color work in Entrelac gives you the chance to be very creative. You can change colors at each row, at each triangle and diamond, or use a long strand variegated yarn. The choice is up to you. The ear warmer in the next image was knitted with a long strand color way yarn.

Chapter Four – Expert Garment Tips

By now you’ve probably tried your hand at making garments. Knitted sweaters are one of the most popular projects you can make, but sometimes you may find the fit leaves something to be desired. In this chapter we’ll go over how to measure to find the correct size, and a few tips to help get a better fit. We’ll also cover tips on how to assemble your garments so that you have professional results.

Getting the Correct Size

When you look at the size charts for patterns you may be confused which size is the correct one. For women one of the most important measurements is the bust, and for men it is the chest. How close to the body a sweater fits is known as ease. Another important measurement to consider is length. Not everyone is shaped the same. For example I have a very long waist while my daughter does not have one. So if I made a sweater according to my measurements it may be too long for her, and if I tried on one of her tops it may ride too high on me.

In the chart from the Craft Yarn Council you can see the differences in ease. A tailored garment fits closer to the body while a relaxed fit is looser. When you are choosing the size for a garment refer to this handy chart to get the correct fit.

Length is another important factor to consider when choosing the correct size. The chart also shows us the average measurements for children’s, women’s, and men’s sizing. Compare the length listed on the pattern to the actual measurement on the body to get the best fit.

Keep in mind if you add or subtract too much it will affect the overall outcome of a pattern. Try to choose the size closest to your measurements. If you are in between sizes opt for the larger size.

How to Measure

If you are measuring yourself enlist the help of a family member or friend. It is much easier for someone to measure you than to try to do it yourself, and you will get a more accurate set of numbers. You should wear a light shirt and pants so that your clothing does not add any bulk. If you are knitting an outer garment dress as you normally would so that the garment has enough ease to be comfortable.

These diagrams from the Craft Yarn Council show you where to measure on the body for the best fit.

1. For a man measure the chest across the largest part. For women the bust is measured across the largest part of the breasts, not under them. Under the breasts is the chest measurement and rarely used in women’s sizing.

2. Measure from the back base of the neck, across the shoulder, and down to the wrist with your elbow slightly bent for the center back neck-to-cuff measurement.

3. Place the end of the measuring tape at the back of the neck at the prominent bone and measure to the natural waist for the back waist length.

4. The cross back measurement is taken from shoulder to shoulder.

5. Place the end of the measuring tape on the armpit and measure to the cuff for the sleeve length.

6. Measure the arm at the widest point above the elbow for the upper arm measurement.

7. Place the end of the measuring tape at the top of the shoulder and measure down to the armpit for the armhole depth.

8. The natural waist can usually be found just above the belly button.

9. Measure the hips at the widest point being careful not to let the measuring tape dip down in the back or the front.

Now take these measurements and compare them to the size chart on the pattern. Many patterns come with detailed schematics showing you the measurements for the various elements of the pattern. You can adjust the fit of the garment by adding or subtracting rows for the length and sleeve length. These are the easiest measurements to adjust.

Instead of trying to add or subtract stitches to make the bust or chest larger I would recommend simply going up or down a size. This will keep your pattern intact and give you the best fit. Remember that the designers have taken ease into consideration when developing patterns so compare the finished garment measurements to the body measurements to get a true idea of the fit.

Socks also come in different sizes for children, men, and women. Use the chart from the Craft Yarn Council to help you get the best fit for your knit socks. The diagram is for dress or crew style socks which come several inches up over the ankle, but below the calf.

1. Measure around the widest part of the foot to get the foot circumference

2. To determine the sock height measure just at the heel and up the leg to where you would like the sock to come to.

3. Place the tape measure or use a ruler and place it on the floor. Measure from the back of your heel to the longest toe for the total foot length.

The following charts are from The Craft Yarn Council. You can find the links in the back of this book, and they give you a link to a PDF with a complete guide to sizing and other valuable information.

Easing in Sleeves

If there is one aspect of assembling garments that even expert knitters sometimes find to be a challenge it is attaching sleeves. Sleeves sometimes have a tendency to bunch or go off center. There are a few tips you can use to help you get the perfect seam and fit for your sleeves.

You will need the sweater body and sleeves, a clip on stitch marker, three clips such as Clover Wonder Clips, tapestry needle, and yarn (when you knit the sleeves it is a good idea to leave a long tail so you can use it to sew the sleeve onto the body of the garment).

As you know when you sew on the sleeves you want the right sides to face each other. But first you have to find the middle of the sleeve. Simply fold the sleeve in half lengthwise and place a clip on stitch marker at the top center point.

Lay the sweat out with the right side facing up and the sleeve area flat. Place the sleeve onto the sweater and match the center point to the shoulder seam. Clip the center and both sides of the sleeve to the sweater body. Gently ease the sides of the sleeve to the proper position on the sweater body. Once you have the sleeve clipped onto the sweater hold the garment up to check the position of the sleeve.

Lay the garment back down flat and pin the sleeve into place. Start at the center shoulder seam and pin down one side, and then the other side working the sleeve into place gently as you pin. Thread the tapestry needle and insert it under the first stitch of the sleeve and the corresponding stitch on the garment. Before you pull the needle back through move it about ½ inch to the left and insert it through a stitch of the garment and the corresponding stitch of the sleeve. Pull the needle through the fabric.

Go back to the beginning of the first sewing stitch and make a small stitch to secure the yarn. Now about ½ inch from the end of the first stitch you made insert the needle into the sleeve and the garment and move about ½ inch and insert the needle into the garment and out of the sleeve. Pull the needle through. Insert the needle at the beginning of the last stitch and pull it through about ½ inch away from it. Continue to do this easing the sleeve into place.

You may have to gently pull either the sleeve or the garment body to get the sleeve to fit. This is normal and since you are working with a knit fabric the ease will not show once the sleeve is sewn on. Remember to always keep the center of the sleeve positioned on the center shoulder seam. This will ensure your sleeve is in the correct position.

Once you get the sleeve sewn on and you’re happy with its position you can then sew up the side of the sweater. Start at the cuff and work your way up the sleeve and down the side of the garment. (Sew the other sleeve on first to make it easier to get the sweater body to lie flat.) Stay on the edge of the knitted pieces using the stitches to anchor the sewing stitches.

You can use this technique on all of your seams. If you find one piece is longer or shorter than the other gently stretch the shorter piece to get the correct fit.

Patterns

All of the patterns I have included in this book that are not mine can be found for free on the internet. I have given credit to the original designers where I could, and the attributions for the images I use in this book can be found at the end of this book. Many thanks go out to the wonderful designers and teachers who have help add to the wonderful content in this book they have shared for free.

Diagonal Eyelet Baby Blanket

Pattern Link: http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/L10157.html

This very pretty baby blanket has panels of eyelet lace alternating with Garter stitch panels worked diagonally from corner to corner. You will need 5 balls of Merino Yarn in Buttermilk, 29 inch size 9 circular needles, and a tapestry needle.

Gauge is 17 stitches and 22 rows equal four inches.

First (Increase) Half

Cast on 2 stitches.

Garter Panel

Garter Increase Row (WS): K1, yarn over, k to end of the row.

Repeat Garter Increase Row to 23 stitches.

Lace Panel A

Row 1 (Right Side): K1, yarn over, knit to end - 24stitches at the end of this row.

Row 2: K1, yarn over, k1, purl to last stitch, k1 - 25 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 3: K1, yarn over, k1, *k2, yarn over, k2tog; Repeat from * across, k3 - 26 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 4: Repeat Row 2 - 27 stitches at the end of this row.

Rows 5-12: Repeat Rows 1-4 - 35 stitches.

Row 13: Repeat Row 1 - 36 stitches

Garter Panel

Repeat Garter Increase to 63 stitches.

Lace Panel A

Repeat Rows 1-13 of Lace Panel A - 76 stitches when Row 13 has been completed.

Garter Panel

Repeat Garter Increase to103 stitches.

Lace Panel A

Repeat Rows 1-13 of Lace Panel A - 116 stitches when Row 13 has been completed.

Garter Panel

Repeat Garter Increase to 143stitches.

Lace Panel B

Note: Row 6 of Lace Panel B begins the Second (Decrease) Half of Blanket.

Rows 1-5: Repeat Rows 1-5 of Lace Panel A - 148 stitches at the end of Row 5.

Row 6: K1, yarn over, k3tog, p to last stitch, k1 - 147 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 7: K1, yarn over, k3tog, k1, *k2, yarn over, k2tog; Repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2 - 146 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 8: Repeat Row 6 - 145 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 9: K1, yarn over, k3tog, k to end - 144 stitches at the end of this row.

Rows 10-13: Repeat Rows 6-9 - 140 stitches at the end of Row 13.

Garter Panel

Garter Dec Row (Wrong Side): K1, yarn over, k3tog, knit to end of row - 139 stitches at the end of this row.

Repeat Garter Dec Row until you have 113 stitches.

Lace Panel C

Row 1 (Right Side): K1, yarn over, k3tog, k to end - 112 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 2: K1, yarn over, k3tog, p to last stitch, k1 - 111 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 3: K1, yarn over, k3tog, k1, *k2, yarn over, k2tog; Repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2 - 110 stitches.

Row 4: Repeat Row 2 - 109 stitches.

Rows 5-12: Repeat Rows 1-4 twice more -101 stitches at the end of Row 12.

Attributions and Resources

All images shared on Flickr are used under the Creative Commons License 2.0 unless otherwise specified.

All images for patterns can be found at the pattern link included in the text.

Images

Provisional Cast On Images
http://www.tricksyknitter.com/how-to-cast-on-making-a-provisional-cast-on/

Images from Tricksy Knitter Blog

Open Provisional Cast On Images
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATfall05TT.html

Images from Knitty.com

Brioche Stitch Close Up
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jigraknits/235947444

Image shared by Charles on Flickr

Intarsia Cable
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5T943GkwDk

Knit Picks Advanced Cabling Techniques: Intarsia Cables still at 0.14

Mosaic Socks
https://www.flickr.com/photos/starathena/4398924780

Image shared by Star Athena on Flickr

Double Knitted Headband
https://www.flickr.com/photos/23276140@N08/3147765898

Image shared by Marni on Flickr+

Ease and Length Charts
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/sizing.html

Image from Craft Yarn Council

How to Measure Images
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/sizing.html

Image from Craft Yarn Council

Head Measurement and Size Chart
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/headsize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Baby Size Chart
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/babysize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Child/Youth Size Chart
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/childsize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Woman Size Charts
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/womansize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Man Size Chart
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/mansize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Foot Size Charts
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/footsize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Back Stitch
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/27447/how-to-master-the-backstitch/page/all

Image from Threads Magazine

Entrelac 3rd Tier Example
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kellysue/471472740

Image shared by Kelly Sue DeConnick on Flickr

Entrelac Half Triangles
http://verypink.com/2011/12/22/learn-to-knit-entrelac/

Very Pink Learn to Knit an Entrelac Scarf at 1:28

Entrelac Ear Warmer
https://www.flickr.com/photos/starathena/2088691825

Image shared by Star Athena on Flickr

Scalloped Edging
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MoOe_VALU4

How to Knit Short Row Scalloped Edging for Lace Cape by Kristin Omdahl at 6:50

Rick Rack Rib Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-knit-the-rick-rib-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Star Rib Mesh Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-star-rib-mesh-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Simple Lace Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-knit-the-simple-lace-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Double Herringbone Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-double-herringbone-mesh-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Fern Lace Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-fern-lace-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Shetland Eyelet Panel
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-shetland-eyelet-panel-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Diagonal Lace Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-diagonal-lace-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Cat’s Eye Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-cats-eye-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Lacy Openwork Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-lacy-openwork-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Bird’s Eye Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-birds-eye-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Videos

Crochet 101:How to Crochet the Chain Stitch for Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmrrnlMR2i0

New Stitch a Day

Knitting Help – Double Knitting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZg4DckTMxc

Very Pink Knits

Learn to Knit an Entrelac Scarf
http://verypink.com/2011/12/22/learn-to-knit-entrelac/

Very Pink Knits

How to Crochet the Reverse Single Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsA5B9U8qoU

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit Short Row Scalloped Edging for Lace Cape
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MoOe_VALU4

Kristin Omdahl

How to Knit theRick Rack Rib Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Vd38Mzq15E

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Star Rib Mesh Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLVuGLCOyT8

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit Simple Lace Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-knit-the-simple-lace-stitch/

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit Double Herringbone Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tOp7_BED6Q

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Fern Lace Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OP91DovgDmE

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Shetland Eyelet Panel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deW4rfiuD3A

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Diagonal Lace Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAbgopZPs6U

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Cat’s Eye Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kteuHzzCbdg

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Lacy Openwork Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOt585rnD0M

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Bird’s Eye Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bvFOrEMl8w

New Stitch a Day

Links and Resources

The following sites have a wealth of information for all levels of knitters. Some of them offer free newsletters and links to social media. I hope they help you in developing your skills as an expert knitter.

The Knitting Channel
https://www.theknittingchannel.com/

This site has videos, newsletters, kits you can purchase, and lots of information and an online store. Jill Moray’s videos are easy to understand and she has a personal touch that makes them enjoyable.

Freckles & Purls
http://frecklesandpurls.com/

A great site full of ideas, patterns, and fellowship I found through the Very Pink site. She has patterns you can purchase, but she also posts free patterns from time to time. The Entrelac scarf pattern in this book was designed by Allison LoCicero, the owner of this site.

Very Pink

Website: http://verypink.com/

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/verypinkknits

Staci has a complete website chock full of information and patterns. Her YouTube channel is a goldmine of information and I used many of her videos to illustrate some of the stitches and techniques in this book. She’s fun to watch and is very easy to follow in her videos. She uploads new videos each Wednesday.

Sapphires-n-Purls The Weekly Stitch

Blog: http://www.sapphiresnpurls.com/

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/iknitwithcatfur

Each week a new stitch is loaded up onto this YouTube channel. This was another channel that helped me understand and illustrate some of the stitches and techniques covered in this book. She uploads new videos each Friday.

New Stitch a Day

Website: http://newstitchaday.com

Video Stitchionary: http://newstitchaday.com/video-stitchionary/

If you need to see how to make a stitch this is the place to visit. This is a collection of instructional videos on basic stitches. Follow the links to learn more advances stitches and skills.  Be sure to visit the website and blog for more information, patterns, and classes. They charge for the classes, but the majority if information on here is free.

The Weekly Stitch

Website: http://www.theweeklystitch.com/

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1he-q7dTSmN5p0UyVmrMfQ

Such a wealth of information on this blog! Every week she shares a new stitch complete with written instructions, a picture of a sample of the stitches andd a video embedded right into the blog post for you to learn how to do the featured stitch. Her YouTube channel is iknitwithcatfur and I found a lot of stitches there to share in this book.

Online Knitting Terms and Stitch Glossary

Use this handy reference for knitting terms and stitches from Knitting Daily.

http://www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary/

Craft Yarn Council

This site has a ton of information about getting started in knitting. You can find diagrams for stitches as well as how to knit, purl, cast on and off, decrease, increase, and just about everything else to do with knitting.

http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/getting_started.php3

Knit Picks

Here you will find materials to purchase as well as tutorials for all levels of knitting. The instructions in their tutorials are clear and the illustrations very easy to understand. I used many of the images in this eBook from this site. They also have a wide array of videos so that you can increase your skills.

http://www.knitpicks.com/

Lion Brand Yarn

Filled with instructions and lots of information about knitting and yarn this site is very helpful and a great place to order yarn and find free patterns.

http://learntoknit.lionbrand.com/

Red Heart

Not only can you find quality yarn at a great price on this site, but you can also find hundreds of free patterns to download. Be sure to sign up for their free newsletter to find out the latest trends in yarn and knitting.

http://redheart.com

All Free Knitting

This site is the mother lode of free patterns. You can set up an account and save your favorite patterns, add notes, and be sure to sign up for their free weekly newsletter.

http://www.allfreeknitting.com/

Knitting Help.com

Here you’ll find a great site full of instructional videos, online store, free patterns, and much more.

http://www.knittinghelp.com/

Interweave
http://www.interweave.com/

This is another great site full of patterns, information, an online store, and forums to connect with other knitting enthusiasts.