Knitting and Crocheting Box Set: Master Knitting and Begin Creating Outstanding Crochet Patterns and Easy Afghan Projects That Everybody Will Like (Knitting ... Books, Knitting for beginners books)
Author: Hall, Janet; Hughes, Debra
Date: 2015-03-13T04:00:00+00:00

Table of Contents

Introduction

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Chapter 1 – Tools of the Trade

Chapter 2 – Let’s Get Knitting

Chapter 3 – Progress

Chapter 4 – Knitting Patterns, Simple Starters

Chapter 5 – The Art of Crochet

Chapter 6 – Crochet Patterns, Simple Starters

Conclusion

Introduction

Chapter 1 – A Brief History of Crochet

Chapter 2 – Why Crocheting is Healthy

Chapter 3 – The Basics

Chapter 4 – One Day or Less Afghan Patterns

Conclusion

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Knitting and Crocheting Box Set: Master Knitting and Begin Creating Outstanding Crochet Patterns and Easy Afghan Projects That Everybody Will Like (Knitting ... Books, Knitting for beginners books)

Janet Hall & Debra Hughes

(2015)

Knitting and Crocheting

Box Set

Master Knitting and Begin Creating Outstanding Crochet Patterns and Easy Afghan Projects That Everybody Will Like

Knitting For Beginners

Master Knitting and Begin Creating Outstanding Crochet Patterns That Everybody Will Like

Table of Contents

Introduction

BONUS: Your FREE Gift

Chapter 1 – Tools of the Trade

Chapter 2 – Let’s Get Knitting

Chapter 3 – Progress

Chapter 4 – Knitting Patterns, Simple Starters

Chapter 5 – The Art of Crochet

Chapter 6 – Crochet Patterns, Simple Starters

Conclusion

Copyright Notice

© Copyright 2015 by Vagabond Publishing - All rights reserved.

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In no way is it legal to reproduce, duplicate, or transmit any part of this document in either electronic means or in printed format. Recording of this publication is strictly prohibited and any storage of this document is not allowed unless with written permission from the publisher. All rights reserved.

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While all attempts have been made to verify the information provided in this book, the author does not assume any responsibility for errors, omissions, or contrary interpretations of the subject matter contained within. The information provided in this book is for educational and entertainment purposes only. The reader is responsible for his or her own actions and the author does not accept any responsibilities for any liabilities or damages, real or perceived, resulting from the use of this information.

Introduction

The skill of knitting is seeing a revival as a hobby. It is no longer seen as something for old ladies, as men, and even the young are now becoming avid knitters.

Why?

The answer is simple, knitting is seen as a means of relaxation. A way to focus your mind on a simple task. Almost a form of meditation. It teaches a steady hand and it forces us to slow down, in our ever busy way of life. It is also a creative art, and there is nothing more pleasurable than having a hand made item at the end of all your efforts. However, it can also have its frustrations.

In this book we guide you through Casting On and then knitting your very first stitch to create a standard Garter pattern.

Learn about the tools of the trade of knitting, with our table of knitting needle sizes. If you have never put your hands to this amazing skill, then you can read this book and learn about the different types of knitting needles, and read the section on how yarns are different thicknesses.

Once you have progressed to learn the two basic stitches of knit and purl, we even provide you with two beginners patterns to create a knitting bag and a blanket throw.

If knitting is not for you, then fear not, we will show you how to crochet. This is indeed a unique craft and will teach you patience. First you will need to understand the basics of the toolkit; needle sizes, yarns and threads. Once you have an understanding of this, you can then follow our instructions and create your Chain, followed by a Foundation Row. We then go on to show you the basic stitches, readying you to use the beginners pattern we have provided, to make a bag.

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Chapter 1 – Tools of the Trade

In this section we will look at what you are going to need to buy for the craft of knitting:

Knitting needles.

Yarn.

Thick sewing needle, such as a tapestry needle.

Small pair of scissors.

KNITTING NEEDLES

Having the right needles can makes all the difference to an enjoyable knitting session. Let us have a look at some of the different types of needles that belong to different project:

- The standard knitting needle for a beginner will be the “Straight” needles, as these are used to knit a flat piece.

- Other types of needles include: circular, which are attached to each other so you cannot lose one; double pointed are used for heels on socks; cable needles can be straight or hooked to resemble a large diaper pin, and are used for chunky items.

- Needles also come in differing sizes, meaning the diameter, or thickness, and length of the needles vary. The thicker a needle then the larger the individual stitches are. Smaller stitches usually create a tighter fabric. Here is a guide to the US metric sizes of knitting needles (the mm represents the millimeter thickness, in diameter):

- 0 = 2mm / 1 - 2.25mm / 2 = 2.75mm/ 3 = 3.25mm / 4 = 3.5mm / 5 = 3.75mm / 6 = 4mm / 7 = 4.5mm / 8 = 5mm / 9 = 5.5mm / 10 = 6mm / 10.5 = 6.5mm / 11 = 8mm / 13 = 9mm / 15 = 10mm / 17 = 12.75mm / 19 = 15mm / 35 = 19mm / 50 = 25.50mm

- Needles are also made with different materials:

- Bamboo needles are considered light and warm. They can be useful for arthritic fingers. On the bad side, they are not very durable with small stitches, and prone to snap.

- Metal needles are considered heavier and colder. They are quite durable and  do not bend easy. Stitches move quicker on their slippy surface.

- Plastic needles are not as popular as they used to be, which is surprising as they are light, smooth and durable.

- Wooden needles are popular for beginners, but as with bamboo, they are prone to break easily.

- Square needles are popular for beginners, because they need less hand tension, which is a skill a beginner will not have mastered.

YARN

Yarn comes in a variety of forms and can be called “balls,” “skeins,” or “hanks.” A skein is the same as a ball, but wrapped in a different shape. Just about any piece of clothing can be hand knitted, but it is important to get the correct type of yarn for the type of clothing:

- Lamb’s Wool - very popular for its insulating properties. It is a hard wearing material that holds its shape well. The down-side is, it needs to be washed and dried very carefully.

- Acrylic fibers, such as nylon and polyester, are cheap to produce and easy to wash. This is a popular choice for fashion style clothing and even baby clothes.

- Buying yarn is a little like buying wallpaper. Make sure you write down the shade number so you can get the exact match, should you run out. Yarn comes in many colors and patterns:

- Ombre - Shades of light and dark in the same color.

- Marled - Different colors twisted together. Often similar colors but different shades.

- Multicolor - Two or more different colors.

- Self-striping - Specifically dyed to create stripes once knitted together.

- Tweed and Heathered - Flecks of different colors embedded into fiber.

- The thickness of a yarn is regarded as its weight:

- Bulky = 12 ply. Used on large needles. Ideal for heavy jumpers.

- Double knit = 8 ply. Ideal for children’s clothing, and even socks.

- Fingering = 4 ply.  Medium weight.

- Lace = 2 ply. Probably the most delicate and Ideal for shawls. Often used for crochet or knitting on larger needles, to create a lace.

- Worsted, Aran = 10 ply. This is the most common type of yarn used, and is ideal for beginners. Slightly chunkier than double knit so can be used easily on large needles.

Chapter 2 – Let’s Get Knitting

One of the hardest tasks to do when learning to knit, is holding the needles and yarn correctly, and comfortably, otherwise you could end up with many aches, that might just make you give it up on your first day. The problem is, that each of us have a different technique, so if someone is teaching you to knit, you may find that you like to hold your needles in a different way to them. Plus, it will make a difference if you are right or left handed. One of your hands is going to work the yarn, for most of us this is the right hand.

Next, will be the decision on how to hold your needles, some hold them like a set of pencils, whilst others hold them under their elbows. It is all about which way is the most comfortable for your own body. You will not know this until you have been knitting for a few hours, and you will soon come to realize the most comfortable position for your fingers, elbows and shoulders.

With this in mind, let us now look at some basic instructions to guide you on getting started:

FIRST STITCH - Slip knot

- The first thing you are going to need, is a Slip Knot.

- Form a small loop with the wool, ensuring that the short end is underneath.

- With the piece that crosses over the top of your loop, take a hold of it further down the thread, then pull it up through the bottom of the first loop, to form a second loop.

- Keep pulling on the second loop and it will go tighter, until the first loop closes in on it.

- If you tug gently on one side of the loop, you should be able to slip the thread to make the loop bigger or smaller.

CASTING ON

There are a few ways to do “casting on (co),” stitches, but we will stick to a good beginners method called the Backwards Loop. These instructions are based on right handed users:

- The needle that has the slip knot on should be in your right hand

- Take the length of yarn that is attached to your ball, and thread it behind your left hand and back over the front of your hand (palm up).

- By placing the right handed needle, underneath the yarn that is in the palm of your hand, you should be creating a loop.

- If you take your hand out of the loop, you should be able to pull the loop to fit the needle, creating another stitch.

- Repeat this process until you have the number of required stitches for your pattern.

- Don’t make the loop too tight on the needle, as it will make it difficult to knit.

- Try not to let the thread get twisted.

KNITTING YOUR FIRST ROW

This is called a Knit stitch (k), and will give you a Garter effect pattern, which looks and feels the same on both sides.

- The needle with the stitches on, needs to be in your left hand.

- Try to keep the yarn at the back of the needles while you work.

- Insert the right needle into the front of the top stitch on the left needle. This will be an upwards motion taking it from front to back.

- Take ahold of the yarn (the length attached to the ball), and bring it under and over the right hand needle.

- If you slightly open up your needles, they should be attached together with a loop, that is now crossed over with the yarn.

- Maneuver the right needle so it goes down the left side of the hole.

- The yarn that crossed the loop will create the new stitch on the first row.

- Repeat this process until all the stitches have been created, and transferred onto the right needle.

- Then put that needle back into your left hand and keep repeating this process. Your knitting will now start to grow.

BIND OFF (bo)

This is the process of finishing off your knitted piece to stop it unravelling, sometimes called casting off, but always referred to as binding off (bo), in a pattern.

- Knit two stitches onto your right hand needle.

- Cross the left hand needle over the front of the right hand needle, and insert the tip into the second stitch, then pull it over the first stitch onto the left hand needle.

- Repeat this process until there are no more stitches on the left needle, and only one on the right

- Remove the needle from the last stitch. Pull the yarn tightly through the open stitch or loop.

- Remember with a bind, off stitch it must be the same as the knitted piece. This means that if the row is a purl row, then the bind off stitch needs to be a purl stitch.

Chapter 3 – Progress

Once you have knitted yourself a few rectangular shapes and squares, you should have mastered the basic Garter pattern. Let us now have a look some of the more complicated patterns:

There is another stitch known as purl. With the combination of knit and purl, you can create an array of styles, such as lace, twists and knots, plus a never ending style of patterns, such as diamonds, columns, ladders, petals, leaves, honey comb and hearts.

To create your first purl stitch:

- The needle with the cast on stitches should be in your left hand.

- With the empty needle in your right hand, push it under the first stitch on the left needle, until it crosses the front of that needle.

- Place the yarn across both the needles and hold it in place with your left thumb and forefinger. Wrap the yarn around the right hand needle in a counter clockwise motion.

- With the yarn attached to the tip of the right hand needle, pull it through the first loop towards you, pulling the loop off the left hand needle and towards the right hand one.

You now have your first purl stitch on the right hand needle. Repeat the process for the required number of stitches.

PURL AND KNIT COMBINATIONS

Now you have mastered the purl stitch, you can combine the two to create different finishes.

The Stockinette Stitch (abbreviated in knitting terms as St st), which creates a different effect to the Garter. This style consists of knit a row, purl a row. A garment made of Stockinette will have a right side and a wrong side, or an inside and an outside. One side will have a smooth effect and the other will be ridged and lumpier.

The Seed Stitch consists of knit one, purl one (abbrev. k1, p1). You must remember to begin your new row with the opposite to stitch, each time. This looks the same on each side, so it is a good pattern for scarves.

DECREASING AND INCREASING STITCHES

This would be used if you need to change the width of the article you are knitting. To increase, you will be adding a stitch to a row, and to decrease has the opposite effect of taking a stitch away. This is not the same as Loosing a stitch, as that can cause a hole. It is a simple technique which involves either: wrapping your yarn around twice to increase; or putting your needle through two stitches to make them into one, decreasing.

KNITTING ABBREVIATIONS

We cannot show them all in the space of this guide, but we can look at a few that might come in handy as a beginner:

alt = alternate / bet = between / CO = cast on / dec = decrease / DK = double knit / EON= end of needle / EOR = end of row / g st = garter stitch / inc = increase / M1 = make one (increase a stitch) / mc = main color / no  =  number / p = purl / p2tog = purl 2 together (decreasing)/ pat = pattern / rem = remaining / rep = repeat / rib = ribbing / st = stitch / tog = together / WS = wrong side /

A FEW SMALL TIPS

- Keep track of how many stitches there are on your needle, if it increases or decreases and not intentional, then your pattern is going to look wrong.

- Avoid knitting right on the end of the needles, as they are quite thin at the end and will result in small, tight stitches.

- Try to hold your needles as loosely as you can. A tight grip may produce a tight stitch.

- Keep the needle with the working yarn (attached to the ball), in your right hand, this way if you put your work down, you know which way around your needles should be.

- Keep the working yarn behind the needles when you knit, unless otherwise instructed for a particular pattern. There is a danger of accidently creating an added stitch if the yarn is at the front.

- However, the yarn needs to be at the front, when you purl.

Chapter 4 – Knitting Patterns, Simple Starters

We need to start off with something useful, but relatively easy, so what better item to make than a knitting bag to hold your yarns and needles:

Knitting Bag using the Seed Stitch Pattern

For this you will be creating 8.5 inched squared pieces. By doing this in bit sizes, you can decide the dimensions of your finished bag. You will simply be sewing the squares together to make the shape of a bag.

A good estimation of sizing could be 2 squares sewn together for each side, 2 squares for the bottom and 1 square at each end to finish off the shape of a bag. It does not need to have a fastener, as you want it open to access your knitting goodies all the time. You could make it bigger if you wish. Now down to the pattern –

Required Equipment:

Yarn - Lilly brand/Sugar ‘n Cream - whatever colors you like, you could do it all the same, or the same but different shades, or go all out with multicolor. Each square will require 1 skein (ball), of 2.5oz (70.9g).

Needles - Knitting US size 6 = 4mm / Tapestry needle for the sewing together of the squares.

It is recommended that you first do a practice run called a gauge, which will give you an idea of tension. You should be able to knit 4 stitches to an inch.

Pattern:

Cast On (CO) 26 stitches (st)

Row 1: k1, p1, repeat (rep) to end of row.

Row 2: p1, k1, rep to end of row.

Continue (cont) until the square measures 8.5 inches (in{s}).

Make sure you end with Row 2.

Bind off or Cast off (bo).

You can weave your ends if you want a neat finish, or just leave the ends as you are going to sew the pieces together.

You will find that this will knit up very quickly, just make sure you remember the correct stitch to starting each new row. It is not uncommon for knitters to write down notes of where they are, so if you put down your work, you will not forget where you go to. This is a nice, easy project to carry around with you wherever you go, and it will not take too long to complete.

If you want handles you could simply knit a further 2 pieces with fewer stitches, until you get the width you require for your handle. Make the handle as long as you require, such as shoulder length or just a carry handles. You will need to sew one on to each of the longer sides of the finished bag, positioning them in a comfortable place to enable you to carry your bag around.

Blanket Throw using the Basket Weave Pattern

Now, we are going to make some more of the squares, but in a different pattern. This time you could sew a few together to make a throw. An estimation would be approximately 4 squares for each side. It might be fun to do the squares in different colors. This item is going to have a right side (rs) and a wrong side (ws), obviously the wrong side will be the inside of the cover.

Required Equipment:

Yarn, needles and gauge will be exactly the same as in the Knitting Bag.

Pattern:

Cast On (CO) 37 stitches (st)

Row 1 - This is the (right side) rs. Knit (k) the whole row.

Row 2 - This is the ws. K5, *p3, k5, now repeat only from * to end of row.

Row 3 - P5, *k3, p5, again, rep. only from * to end of row.

Row 4 - Repeat row 2.

Row 5 - Knit.

Row 6 - K1, *p3, k5, rep from * until you only have 4 stitches left and p3, k1.

Row 7 - P1, *k3, p5, rep from * until you only have 4 stitches left and k3, p1.

Row 8 - Rep row 6.

You have now come to the end of your pattern formation.

Rep all 8 rows until you have your required measurement, if you want the same sized squares as the bag, that will be 8.5 in(s).

For larger squares, go up with your needle size and equally for smaller ones, go down.

Chapter 5 – The Art of Crochet

Many feel that crochet is a harder task than knitting, but it is equally as creative and relaxing. It is a similar skill in that you need yarn and sticks. The major difference between the two skills is that in knitting you work with many stitches on a needle, in crochet you will work with only one stitch. Also, generally in knitting you will use 2 needles but in crochet, only 1. The final effect of a crochet fabric will not be as stretchy as a knitted one. If you were to knit the same item and then crochet it, you would use three times more fabric, as it produces a thicker finish than knitting.

Crotchet Hooks

In knitting the sticks are referred to as needles, in crochet you will use only one stick and it is called a hook, simply because it has a hook on the end. Crochet hooks are not as long as knitting needles and are also made up of many materials:

Aluminum.

Bone.

Bamboo.

Plastic.

Steel.

Again, similar to knitting, they also come in varying sizes to create different sized stitches. This is a hook chart in the USA, showing the sizes in numbers and letters, and then the thickness in millimeters. These are the larger hooks:

10.5 or K = 6.5 mm / 10 or J = 6mm / 9 or I = 5.5mm / 8 or H = 5 mm / 6 or G = 4 mm / 5 or F = 3.75mm / 4 or E = 3.05mm / 3 or D = 3.25mm / 2 or C = 2.75 mm / 1 or B = 2.25mm

Another confusion is that there are different hooks for thread than there are for using yarn:

Thread hooks are made of steel, shorter and have smaller hooks.

Yarn hooks are made of plastic or aluminum and can be longer.

Fabrics

There are two different types of fabrics used to crochet, although a pattern would indicate which is relevant.

THREAD: Packaged in spools and usually made from cotton with a dense pile. The smaller the number then the thicker the yarn. Comes in three sizes 10 is similar to cotton sewing thread, 5, and 3 can be as thick as yarn, in appearance. Most threads are “Z” twisted, with the twist going from left to right.

YARN: This is packaged in skeins and hanks and has a thicker diameter than a thread. Most yarns are “S’ twisted. Right to left. Yarn also comes in a variety of diameters known as Yarn weight.

Let’s Get Started

CHAIN CROCHET:

For your practice session we recommend using a size 8 or H, 5mm hook and a smooth wooly yarn.

Create the Slip Knot we showed to you in Chapter 1.

With your left hand, palm up, take the yarn and thread it through alternate fingers, such as - thread on palm side of little finger, under knuckle side of ring finger, back to palm side of longest finger and under knuckle side of index finger, keeping it is loose so it can move and thread through your fingers. If this is troublesome, then find your own comfort zone to allowing the thread to pass through your fingers. How you hold this is important as will allow you to control the tension.

Hook should be in right hand, (if you are right handed).

Pull the yarn over the hook in a forward motion and then thread it under the hook, so it is going back behind the hook. Next you are going to turn the yarn over your hook, to bring it back again.

This will create the next stitch and is called a “yarn over (yo),” as the hook will go under and over.

If you pull the yarn correctly, you will create a small loop. This loop is the stitch that you need to catch on your hook and slip onto the needle.

Repeat this process for each new stitch in your Chain.

However many stitches or loops your pattern tells you to make, do not include the Slip Knot, it only refers to each Chain Stitch in your counting.

Always count the Chain Stitches from the front, as it appears differently on the back.

The front will have a smooth appearance, but the back will appear with a middle bobble.

THAT’S IT! You have done it, you have started the Chain of your first crochet project and learned how to do a Chain Stitch (ch).

The next row will be called your Foundation Row.

SLIP STITCH (sl st)

As the title indicates, you are about to learn how to slip a stitch as this is used widely to create the holes in the lacy effect.

Pushing your needle from front to back, take a stitch onto it, then miss a stitch, then include the next stitch onto your hook.

Wrap your yarn or thread around the hook needle, from back to front, this is known as “yarn round hook,” (yrh).

Pull that yarn through both the stitches (or loops) you have caught on your needle.

You should now be left with only 1 stitch on the needle.

If you need to continue with slip stitch (sl st), then simply repeat (rep), until the end of the row.

THAT’S IT! You can now do both Chain Stitch (ch) and Slip Stitch (sl).

SINGLE CROCHET STITCH (sc)

This is the last stitch you will need to know for our pattern.

Once again, as in sl st, you will push your needle into the stitch (or loop) through 2 stitches. Ensure you are working with the front of your work.

You now have 2 stitches on your needle.

Now you are going to create a third stitch to loop through the other two stitches, by wrapping your yarn from front to back and around the hook. This is known as “yarn over,” (yo).

Again, you should be swapping two loops for one.

When you start a new row, don’t forget to turn your work around.

Also, and very important, Chain Stitch (ch) the first stitch as this gives it a neat and tied off edging. This will not count as a stitch when you come to counting your stitches. Only count however many you need and do in Single Crochet (sc).

DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH (dc)

A double crochet stitch is twice as long as a single one. To double crochet stitch:

1.       You should already have 1 loop on your needle; now wrap yarn around the needle from back to front at top, and loop to the back through the bottom; you should now have 2 loops on your needle.

2.      Take the hook and push it through your work, catching the next loop along in your work (front to back); you should now have 3 loops on your needle.

3.       Wrap the yarn around again, as you did with the first loop you just created; you should now have 4 loops on your needle; Pull the last loop through the 2 loops next to it; you should now have 2 loops left on your needle.

4.      Wrap the yarn around again, creating 3 loops; pull the loop you just made through the other 2 loops; you are now back to 1 loop (stitch) on your needle.

You are ready to have a go at our pattern.

Chapter 6 – Crochet Patterns, Simple Starters

As with knitting, there are many types of patterns to be created. You will slowly start to learn the names of the some of the stitches, such as single, double, chain, loop, slip, back and even bobble. Let us not run too fast though, and have a go at a simple pattern.

CROCHET BAG

This pattern will require you to do Chain Stitch (ch), Single Crochet (sc) and Double Crochet (dc).

What you are going to need is:

Yarn - Bernat Softee Chunky (100g = 3.5oz) Colors are recommendations only -  A = 3 balls of black / B = 3 balls of purple.

Hook - Size L or 11

Gauge - Remember, this is your test run for size. For this pattern you will need 9  Double Crochet (dc) stitches x 4 rows using 2 strands of yarn together. This should measure equal to 4 inches (10cm) squared. If you cannot get your own tension correct to achieve this, simply use a larger or smaller hook size.

You are going to crochet using 2 strands, that is both colors together (tog).

The Front and the Back of the bag are the same, so you will need 2 squares by doing the following:

Chain

Using both strands tog. Do a Chain (ch) of 32 stitches, or loops.

Foundation Row

Turn your Chain around so you have the Wrong Side (WS) facing you, and create your Foundation Row by doing 1 single crochet stitch (sc) for the first stitch and then do chain crochet (ch) for 31 loops.

Turn your work around again so now you should have the Right Side (RS) facing you.

1st Row

So now you will do your 1st row - Chain Stitch (ch) 3 loops tog (this counts as 1 stitch).

Now do 1 Double Crochet (dc) to each sc in the work (go back to our instructions if you cannot remember how to dc). Turn your work around.

2nd Row

Ch 1, Now do 1 sc in each dc up until the end of the row. Turn.

Rep Row 1 and 2 until work measures 14 inches, ensuring you end at the end of Row 2. Fasten off.

Flap of Bag

Chain

Using both strands tog. do a Chain (ch) of 9 stitches, or loops.

Foundation Row

Turn you Chain around so you have the Wrong Side (WS) facing you, and create you Foundation Row by doing 1 single crochet stitch (sc) then do chain crochet (ch) for 8 loops.

1st Row

So now you will do your 1st row - Chain Stitch (ch) 3 loops (this counts as 1 stitch).

Now do 1 Double Crochet (dc) to each sc in the work (go back to our instructions if you cannot remember how to dc). Turn your work around.

2nd Row

Ch 1, Now do 1 sc in each dc up until the end of the row. Turn.

Rep rows 1 and 2 x 5 times more, each.

You should now have the Right Side (rs)

Ch 1, put hook through next 2 sc on your work, you should now have 3 loops on your needle.

Wrap yarn over needle and draw through all 3 loops on hook - Sc2 tog made. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc. Sc2 tog over last 2 sc. 6 sts. Turn.

Next row:

Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. 4 sts. Turn.

Next row:

Ch 1. Sc2tog over first 2 sts. Sc2tog over next 2 sts. 2 sts. Fasten off.

Handles (make 2)

Chain

Using both strands tog. do a Chain (ch) of 69 stitches, or loops.

1st Row

(RS). Ch 1. 1 sc in each ch to end of chain. Turn.

2nd row

Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc to end of row. Turn.

Rep last row until work from beg measures 4 ins [10 cm]. Fasten off.

Finish

With ws of Front and Back tog, sew side seams and bottom seams tog.

Put marks on top edge, 3 ins [7.5 cm] in from side seams.

Fold each Handle in half lengthwise. Sew foundation row and last row tog.

Sew Handles to upper edges of Bag, centering handles on marks.

Center foundation row of Flap on back of Bag, approx 2 ins [5 cm] below upper edge. Sew in position.

Fold Flap over upper edge of Bag.

Conclusion

This is a guide for Beginners to learn the basic stitches of knitting and crochet. The best thing you can do now is practice, to better your skills. Then you can go on to accomplish more complex patterns, and items.

Never rush, this is relaxing hobby, take your time and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Enjoy!

One Day Crochet

Easy Afghan Projects You Can Complete in 24 Hours

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1 – A Brief History of Crochet

Chapter 2 – Why Crocheting is Healthy

Chapter 3 – The Basics

Chapter 4 – One Day or Less Afghan Patterns

Conclusion

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Introduction

It doesn’t matter how the art of crocheting was introduced into your life; the important thing is that it was.  This is an art that seems to be fading out and we need to keep it going strong.  We are using this book as a format to rekindle the interest of those that think they should just give up on the craft and to get more people involved in this wonderful craft.

Crocheting is not just for making coasters for glasses, hats for keeping the head warm, scarves for cold winters, or Afghans to cuddle under; it also has health benefits that may come as a surprise to just about everyone reading this book.  It is obvious that you have a certain interest in the craft of crocheting otherwise you would not have chosen this particular book.

We didn’t feel that just knowing the terms and stitches was enough to grasp someone’s interest so, we have decided to spice it up and give it meaning to those that do it.  We are going to show crochet fanatics that they don’t have to spend hours upon hours working on one Afghan; there are Afghans that can be completed in less than twenty-four hours and they are beautiful.

Through the course of the book you may find that some of the information is a review for you, which is a good way to keep the mind fresh on the subject.  One objective here is to bring excitement to the reader and light a fire to start on a new project as soon as they are finished with the book.

The patterns that will be shared with you for Afghans are going to be for baby blankets and for a lap-sized blanket.  If you have the intention of making a larger Afghan you can expect to spend more time getting it completed.  It is important to know the approximate time you will be spending on a project, if you intend to use it as a gift for a friend or loved one.

Crocheting is an art and it is one that brings memories to many people.  Think back and you will probably find a memory of your grandmother or auntie giving you a homemade crocheted scarf, hat, or sweater for Christmas and we bet you have a smile on your face just thinking about it.  These quick patterns will give you the opportunity to bring a smile to someone’s face and think of you each time they use the beautiful Afghan you are going to make for them.

Chapter 1 – A Brief History of Crochet

The art of crochet according to the Crochet Guild of America officially began in the 16th century according to Annie Potter; world traveler and American crochet expert.  In 1916 Walter Edmund Roth found examples of crochet while visiting descendents of the Guiana Indians. Lis Paludan an author and researcher from Denmark confined her research to Europe and developed the following three theories on the beginning of crochet.

1. Arabia was the originating location of crochet and from there it spread east to Tibet and west to Spain and from there it continued to spread to other Mediterranean countries along trade routes.

2. In South America a primitive tribe was believed to use crocheted pieces as part of a puberty ritual and that these pieces are some of the earliest on record making this the possible beginning point.

3. Three dimensional dolls from China were made with crochet making them the possible starters of crochet.

Paludan believes that there is no way to truly pinpoint the exact location and time that crochet started, but, can find no evidence of it in Europe before 1800.  It is said that in the 1500s nuns in Italy did crochet to make textiles for the church and though preserved crochet items of this type have been found an exact date cannot be noted.

If we follow the research and the theory of the 16th century the history would work out like this.  Crochet was actually developed in ancient China from a type of ancient needlework that in Turkey, India, Persia, and North Africa was referred to as tambour.     This method is believed to have made its way from China to Europe in the 1700s.  The process involves stretching a piece of fabric taut on a frame with the working thread placed beneath the material.  A hook with a needle is inserted downward and then pulls a loop of the working thread upward.  Keeping the hook on the needle it is again inserted downward a little farther down and the process continues to be repeated.

The French evolved tambour into what they called “crochet in the air” during the end of the 18th century when they discarded the fabric backing.  The word crochet comes from the French word croc or croche meaning hook; hence the name crochet.  It was Mlle. Riego de la Branchardiere that gave crochet a jump start by creating many lace-like crochet patterns that could be duplicated by others.  She published many books on the subject and claimed to be the inventor of “lace-like” crochet which is now known as Irish crochet.

During the early periods of crochet most of the items produced were for practical purposes.  Some examples were items used for fishing and hunting like; fishing nets and knotted game bags.  From there as the techniques were fine tuned products expanded to items for special occasions that included religious ceremonies, weddings, funerals, or various celebrations.  It began simple with decorative trimmings for clothes around the ankles, arms, and wrists.  These beautiful adornments were usually reserved for the rich and so crochet became known as the poor man’s imitation of lace trimmings.

During the Victorian period crochet items took off and the world was seeing things like bird cage covers, tablecloths, lamp mats and shades, purses, tobacco pouches, and flower pot holders.

From the beginning of the 1900s until around 1930 ladies were crocheting everything from Afghans to car rugs and teapot cozies to potholders; which become a staple in every ladies portfolio of crocheting.  During the 60s and 70s crocheting was becoming a means of self expression and it is still on that path today.

Over time even the techniques of crocheting have changed and become more efficient.  From 1824 to 1833 it is documented in a Dutch magazine that the yarn and the needle were held in the right hand the yarn was passed over the hook with the right forefinger.  Then in 1840 it was said that the hook should be held in the right and the left hand should hold the yarn which is still how right handers do it today.

In 1847 a German publication told those that did crochet that they should always keep the same tension to get an even appearance in their product.  If they were not working in a round pattern it was recommended to break the yarn at the end of each row.  During the 20th century patterns began to tell when yarn needed to be broken off and the right and wrong side of the fabric being worked.

Old patterns dating up until the mid 1800s said that the hook should only be put into the back half of the stitch making a single stitch unless otherwise instructed.  Jenny Lambert wrote about this in 1847 and said that was fine for table runners and things like that but, when making soles for shoes or something that needed to be thicker it was best to take the hook through both loops.  Now days everyone normally goes through both loops unless a pattern says to do otherwise.

The earliest patterns known are from 1824.  Before patterns were actually penned; people would simply copy the work of others.  Ladies would make samples and sew them onto paper and make somewhat of a scrapbook to share with others.  The earlier patterns were notorious for not being accurate and it was up to the person using the pattern to follow the illustrations more than the written instructions.

A perfect example would be that while crocheting an eight point star by following the instructions, one might have ended up with a six point star.  Crochet has made many changes and has advanced by leaps and bounds since the beginning.  Today with the advancements society has made we are able to write this book and share patterns that will take you less than twenty-four hours; that would not have happened in the beginning.

Chapter 2 – Why Crocheting is Healthy

This is going to be a very short chapter, but, we felt it was important to let people know that crocheting can actually be beneficial for health.  Doctors should consider writing prescriptions for a daily dose of crocheting to help with some of the health issues facing their patients.  It may actually lower the number of visits those patients need to make to the doctor each year.  Let’s take a look at how crocheting can help.

1. Depression – This is a mental health condition that affects many people throughout the world of all different ages.  Crocheting can help with this condition because it helps to break up ruminating thoughts, reduces stress, builds self-esteem, and releases serotonin in the body.  Research has been completed on this subject and proved it to be true.

2. Physical Pain – There are many diseases that cause pain to the body such as; fibromyalgia, multiple sclerosis, arthritis, and cancer just to name a few.  Through crochet some of the pain can be lessened.  Crocheting is a positive distraction from the pain and as mentioned in number one it helps in the release of serotonin; which is considered a natural painkiller in the body.  With conditions like arthritis it constant movement of the hands helps to keep them limber.

3. Insomnia (Not Being Able to Sleep) – Insomnia is a terrible thing to have to cope with and there are a number of causes for it.  One cause may be restless leg syndrome or perhaps just a great amount of stress on the mind.  Crocheting is perfect for late nights when you just can’t sleep.  When the house is quiet and still, a repetitive pattern can bring about a soothing feeling for the body and the mind; like meditation.

4. Anxiety – Unfortunately, anxiety can be a side effect of other illnesses that can further your health issues.  Crochet is a soothing activity that can help you cope with all types of anxiety, such as panic attacks, general anxiety, and social anxiety.  Crocheting is also a super way to deal with pregnancy anxiety without using medications that could potentially harm the baby.  So the next time you are in the doctor’s waiting room worrying about the test you are fixing to have done; pick up your yarn and relax.

5. Grief – When we are grieving it can take a great toll on the body because during these periods we normally do not treat our bodies right.  Grieving isn’t just about death; it could be about an illness you have that has taken away the life you once knew and loved.  If you have lost some functions in your life crocheting can make you feel creative and useful again.  If you are grieving over the loss of a loved one it helps to sooth the mind and keeps you from thinking about it continuously allowing you those moments of peace.

Now we said this was going to be a short chapter and we are true to our word and we are going to move forward now with the hope that something here may prove beneficial to you.

Chapter 3 – The Basics

In all honesty there are two basic things you need for crocheting and they are: a hook and yarn.  However, there are some things that will just make your crocheting much simpler and more organized.  Making it simpler and more organized makes it much more fun and keeps you interested.  When the fun gets taken out of a hobby or craft; it starts to bring negative feelings and eventually gets pushed away entirely.  Let’s look at the list of the top ten things that will help you enjoy crocheting more.   We know that some of these will make you say; really! But, we wanted to include them all.

1. Yarn – Yes, we know that you know that you need yarn to crochet.  We just wanted to mention it because there are so many types and it is a good idea to keep a variety on hand just in case; no one wants to have to run to the craft store for yarn in the middle of a project.  So keep some of the following grades on hand; lace, supper fine, fine, light, medium, bulky, and super bulky.

2. Crochet Hooks – Again, we know that you know you need hooks to crochet.  We are not going to go over every size crochet hook available; we are just going to share a few need to know tips.  There are three variables that affect the size of a hook and they are; material, country of origin, and the manufacturer.  Most crochet patterns will indicate the size of the hook that will be needed for the project.  If you are using an old pattern there may be some differences in hook sizes so, we suggest doing a small test piece to insure you are using the right size hook.

Always make sure the hooks match the material you are using, in other words use the larger hooks for bulkier yarns and smaller hooks for lace and finer yarns.  It is suggested that when working with fine thread or tatting cotton you use steel hooks and when working with yarn to use plastic or aluminum hooks.  There are some specialty hooks that may be needed for projects but, those are a must have and not something that should be considered a basic tool.

3. Small Scissors – The reason that crocheters use small scissors is to reduce the risk of cutting the project when they are cutting the ends off the finished product.  Other options are manicure scissors, embroidery scissors, or the little ones on a Swiss army knife.

4. Tape Measure – When you are learning a new stitch or just starting to crochet a tape measure is invaluable.  This little tool helps to keep the stitches the correct size for the pattern.  As you become more proficient at it you may find that you can visually gauge the measurement of the stitches, but, keep the tape measure around for more complicated patterns.

Hook Organizer – If you want top of the line go get you a real hook organizer that has different sized elastic bands that hold hooks according to size and folds up for easy storage.  If you don’t want that expense at the very least keep your hooks in a zip-lock baggy so you aren’t spending hours looking for the right size hook; have them all in one location.

5. Yarn Needles – These are needed for sewing the loose ends of a project to keep it from unraveling.  You will also need these when creating Afghans that require several pieces be sewn together.  The best needles you can get can be found in children’s cross stitch kits.

6. Stitch Markers – When you are crocheting it is important that you know when one round ends and another begins; this is where stitch markers come in handy.  They also work great for marking the point at which a piece needs to be sewn to an adjoining piece for a project.  Beginners will normally use a marker every ten to twenty stitches.

7. Stitch Counter – It does just what the name says; it counts the number of stitches made or the number of rows completed and sometimes both.  There are some that will automatically count when the hook makes a round and there are others that work by physically clicking it the appropriate number of times.

8. Storage – Choose a type of container that suits your taste to keep your extra yarn, tools, and projects in progress in.  Leaving everything lying around is how things get lost and damaged.  When you put your yarn in a container put it in a plastic baggy to keep it clean and to keep them from getting tangled together.

9. Stitch Book and Patterns – It is always a great idea to keep a book handy that shows all the stitches and gives illustrated instructions.  Most current patterns show the various stitches but, older patterns may not and you can then turn to the book.  Patterns are always useful no matter how many times you have made an item.

Now that you have all your basics together and organized let’s get ready to create some beautiful Afghans in twenty-four hours or less.

Chapter 4 – One Day or Less Afghan Patterns

5 ½ Hour TV Lapghan

Skill:  Easy

Size:  45” x 60”

Yarn Yardage:  2,550 yards / 10 ply

Hook Size:  15.0mm

Gauge:  3 V-stitches + 4 rows = 6”

Instructions

With 1 strand each of A, B and C held together, chain 67.

Row 1: Double crochet in 5th chain from hook, chain 1, double crochet in same chain (first V-stitch made), *skip next 2 chain, (double crochet, chain 1, double crochet) in next chain (V-stitch made); repeat from * to last 2 chain, skip next chain, double crochet in last chain - 21 V-stitches.

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as first double crochet), turn, *(double crochet, chain 1, double crochet) in next chain-1 space; repeat from * across, double crochet in top of turning chain.

Rows 3-40: Repeat Row 2.

Fasten off.

Edging

Hold 1 strand each A, B and C together, join in any corner of Lapghan.

Edging Row: Chain 1, single crochet evenly along edge of Lapghan. Fasten off. Repeat along other edge.

Finishing

Weave in ends.

40” x 40” Lap Afghan

Skill:  Beginner

Size:  40” x 40”

Gauge:  11 half double crochet + 7 rows = about 4 inches

Instructions

PANEL I

With A, chain 30.

Row 1: Half double crochet in 3rd chain from hook (2 skipped chain do not count as a stitch) and in each chain across – 28 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 2: Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch), turn, half double crochet in each stitch across.

Rows 3-17: Repeat Row 2, changing to B in last stitch of Row 17.

Rows 18-34: With B, repeat Row 2, changing to C in last stitch of Row 34.

Rows 35-51: With C, repeat Row 2, changing to D in last stitch of Row 51.

Rows 52-68: With D, repeat Row 2.

Fasten off.

Panel II

Make same as Panel I, working 17 rows each with E, F, G and H.

Panel III

Make same as Panel I, working 17 rows each of C, D, A and B.

Panel IV

Make same as Panel I, working 17 rows each of G, H, E and F.

Finishing

Follow Assembly Diagram.

Weave in ends.

Panel 1

Panel 2

Panel 3

Panel 4

D

H

B

F

C

G

A

E

B

F

D

H

A

E

C

G

Quick and Simple Afghan (6 Hours)

Skill:  Beginner / Easy

Size:  45” x 70”

Yarn:  8 skeins

Hook:  Jumbo plastic 15.75mm

Instructions

Chain 75 unless you prefer to make it longer

Row 1:  Single crochet in each chain to the end turn

Rows 2 – 60:  Single crochet in next stitch and in each stitch across.  Chain 1 turn. Repeat through row 60 or until as wide as you’d like.   Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Can’t get much simpler than that!  You can leave the Afghan as it is or you can try one of the following finishing touches.

- Use a piece of color coordinated ribbon and weave in through every other stitch second from the edge all the way around.

- Add fringe by cutting lengths of yarn and putting through the end stitches; folding in half and tying off.  Add as much or as little as you like all the way around or only on two ends

Block Stitch Baby Blanket

Skill:  Easy

Size:  30” x 36”

Yarn:  2 colors – 400 yards each

Hook:  5.5mm

Gauge:  12 double crochet = 4”

Instructions

Row 1: With color A, chain 79, double crochet in 4th chain from hook, double crochet in ea chain across, turn (77 double crochet).

Row 2: With color A, chain 1, single crochet in 1st double crochet, *chain 3, skip 3 double crochet, single crochet in next double crochet, repeat from * across, ending with single crochet in top of turning chain, turn (19 chain -3 spaces).

Row 3: Join color B to first single crochet, chain 3, work 3 double crochet in next chain-3 spaces, chain 1, *3 double crochet in next chain-3 spaces, chain 1, repeat from * across, end with double crochet in last single crochet, turn (19 3-double crochet blocks).

Row 4: With color B, chain 1, single crochet in first double crochet, *chain 3, single crochet in next chain-1 space, repeat from * across to last 4 double crochet, chain 3, skip next 3 double crochet, single crochet in top of turning chain, turn (19 chain-3 spaces).

Row 5: With color A, chain 3, work 3 double chain in next chain-3 spaces, chain 1, *3 double crochet in next chaini-3 spaces, chain 1, repeat from * across, end with 3 double chain in last chain-3 spaces, double chain in last single crochet, turn (19 3-double crochet blocks).

Row 6: With color A, chain 1, single crochet in first double crochet, *chain 3, single crochet in next chain-1 space, repeat from * across to last 4 double crochet, chain 3, skip next 3 double crochet, single crochet in top of turning chain, turn (19 chain-3 spaces).

Row 7: With color B, chain 3, work 3 double crochet in next chain-3 space, chain 1, *3 double crochet in next chain-3 spaces, chain 1, repeat from * across, end with double crochet in last single crochet, turn (19 3-double crochet blocks).

Row 8: With color B, chain 1, single crochet in first double crochet, *chain 3, single crochet in next chain-1 space, repeat from * across to last 4 double crochet, chain 3, skip next 3 double crochet, single crochet in top of turning chain, turn (19 chain-3 spaces).

Rep Rows 5-8 until blanket is desired length.

Final row: With color A, chain 3, double crochet in ea single crochet and space across, working 3 double crochet in ea chain-3 spaces.  Fasten off.

Finishing

Join color B to any stitch on final row, chain 1, single crochet evenly all around blanket, working 3 single crochet in each corner, and join with slip stitch. If desired, chain 1 and work a second round of single crochet, or work in reverse single crochet for a decorative edge. Join with slip stitch, fasten off and weave in all tails.

Blocks Baby Afghan

Skill:  Easy

Size:  28” x 28”

Yarn:  3 skeins (your choice of color)

Hook:  5.5mm

Gauge:  16 – 20 stitches = 4”

Instructions
ch 78.

Row 1: (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in 2nd chain from hook, * skip next chain, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) 12 times*, single crochet in next 25 chain, repeat from * to * 13 times, turn.

Row 2-26: chain 1, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next 13 chain 2 spaces, skip next single crochet, single crochet in front loop of next 25 single crochet, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next 13 chain 2 spaces, turn.

Row 27: chain 1, single chain in 1st chain 2 space, (single crochet in next single crochet, single crochet in next chain 2 space) 12 times, single chain in front loop of next 25 single crochet, (single crochet in chain 2 space, *single crochet in next single crochet) 12 times, turn. (You will have 75 single crochet).

Row 28: chain 1, single crochet in front loop of 1st 25 single chain, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next single crochet, *skip next single crochet, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next single crochet* repeat from * to * 12 times, single crochet in front loops of net 25 single crochet, turn.

Row 29: chain 1, single chain in front loops of next 25 single crochet, skip next single crochet, *(single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next chain 2 space* 13 times, skip next single crochet, single crochet in front loop of next 25 single crochet, turn.

Row 30-53: Repeat Row 29.

Row 54: chain 1, single crochet in front loop of 1st 25 single crochet, single crochet in next chain 2 space, (single crochet in next single crochet, single crochet in next chain 2 space) 12 times, single crochet in front loop of last 25 single crochet, turn.

Row 55: chain 1, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in 1st single crochet *skip next single crochet, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next single crochet* repeat from * to * 12 times, single crochet in front loop of next 25 single crochet, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next single crochet *skip next single crochet, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next single crochet* repeat from * to * 12 times, turn.

Row 56: chain 1, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next 13 chain 2 spaces, skip next single crochet, single crochet in front loop of next 25 single crochet, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next 13 chain 2 spaces, turn.

Row 57-80: Repeat Row 56. Turn; do not fasten off.

Edges

Round 1: Single crochet in chain 2 space, *single crochet in next single crochet, single crochet in next chain 2 space* 12 times, single crochet in next 25 single crochet, repeat from * to *, 3 single crochet in corner, single crochet down side of afghan, 3 single crochet in corner, 75 single crochet in bottom of afghan, 3 single crochet in corner, single crochet up side of afghan, 3 single crochet in corner, slip stitch in 1st single crochet, turn.

Round 2: chain 1, 3 single crochet in corner stitch, chain 1, skip next single crochet, *single crochet in next single crochet, chain 1, skip next single crochet across, 3 single crochet in corner stitch*, repeat from * around, slip stitch in 1 single crochet, turn.

Round 3: chain 1, *(single crochet in chain 1 space, chain 1), repeat across, 3 single chain in corner single crochet*, repeat from * to * around. Fasten off and tie in ends.

Conclusion

We hope that you enjoyed this book as much as we enjoyed putting it all together for you.  You have five beautiful patterns for Afghans that you can finish in a day or less and we are certain that you want to get started so; we won’t keep you very long.

You should have a solid knowledge of crocheting history that possibly can be share with younger women in your life and get them started on the craft.  Remember when you are telling them the colorful history that you mention that this craft also has medicinal benefits.

As we stated early in this book, crochet sometimes seems to be a dying craft that is hanging on by a thread; no pun intended.  Get people you know involved and show them how fun and rewarding it can be.  Crochet hats, sweaters, scarves, and blankets all scream vintage retro!  Through the years many vintage things have made their way back into the mainstream and we know crochet can to.  Let’s face it, it bell bottoms made a comeback for a short period of time so can this craft.

Grab your hooks, grab your yarn, and turn to your favorite pattern in this book and get started on your next project.  Make as many as you like you can give them as birthday gifts, Christmas presents, a thank you gift, or be charitable; make a few and give them to the homeless.  You will be benefiting others while helping your health and wellbeing at the same time.  Happy Crocheting!!

Glossary of Stitches

Chain -Take yarn over hook from back to front, and pull it through both loops on the hook. One loop stays on the hook, and you made one single crochet stitch. Repeat Steps two and three in each remaining chain. One row from a single crocket is now completed.

Single Crochet -To begin a second row, turn work. Do not count chain 1 for the turn as a stitch.  Insert hook from front to back under top 2 loops of first single crochet in row below, yarn over, draw through stitch, yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook.

Double Crochet -is roughly twice the height of a single crochet stitch. This stitch is used to produce a looser fabric as compared to the single crochet.

Half Double Crochet-Yarn over hook one time, insert from front to back in center of third chain from the hook. Yarn over; draw through the chain with 3 loops on hook. Yarn over; draw through 3 loops on hook.

Fasten - After you finish a crocheted piece, you need to secure the yarn so the stitch will not unravel. Cut the yarn leaving a tail that is a few inches long. With your hook, pull the tail through the loop on the hook. Remove the hook and pull on the tail to tighten. Weave the tail through the stitches of the fabric to hide it with a yarn needle.

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