Knit and Crochet Box Set: 30 Easy Knit and Crochet Patterns for Stylish Hats, Dress, Skirts and Modern Accessories for You and Your Family! (How to knit, ... crochet, Crochet stitches for Intermediate
Author: Clark, Anna; Green, Nancy
Date: 2015-05-02T04:00:00+00:00

Table of Contents

Introduction

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Chapter 1 – Basic Steps of Knitting a Hat

Chapter 2 –Knitting Patterns for Colorful Women's Hats

Chapter 3 – Knitting Patterns for Trendy Men's Hats

Chapter 4 – Knitting Patterns for Cute Children's Hats

Conclusion

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Basic Crocheting Steps

Chapter 2 – Crocheted Winter Accessories

Chapter 3 – Crocheted Summer Accessories

Conclusion

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Patterns for Short Sleeved Dresses

Chapter 2 – Everyone Needs One Crochet Long Dress!

Chapter 3 – Skirts! Easy, Simple and Ultra Trendy

Chapter 4 – Colorful Patterns: Embrace The Spirit of Spring and Summer

Chapter 5 – Patterns for Long Skirts

Chapter 6 – Reminder: Crocheting Dictionary

Conclusion

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Knit and Crochet Box Set: 30 Easy Knit and Crochet Patterns for Stylish Hats, Dress, Skirts and Modern Accessories for You and Your Family! (How to knit, ... crochet, Crochet stitches for Intermediate)

Anna Clark & Nancy Green

(2015)

Knit and Crochet

Box Set

30 Easy Knit and Crochet Patterns for Stylish Hats, Dress, Skirts and Modern Accessories for You and Your Family!

How To Knit

Knit, Knit, Knit and Be Stylish!

14 Simple and Easy Hat Knitting Patterns

Table of Contents

Introduction

BONUS: Your FREE Gift

Chapter 1 – Basic Steps of Knitting a Hat

Chapter 2 –Knitting Patterns for Colorful Women's Hats

Chapter 3 – Knitting Patterns for Trendy Men's Hats

Chapter 4 –  Knitting Patterns for Cute Children's Hats

Conclusion

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Introduction

Some people may think that knitting is old-fashioned and outdated because our mothers may have done it, our grandmothers have most likely done it and so have our great grandmothers.  Following the industrial revolution and the start of mass production, including textile manufacturing, people have found it easier to go to a shop and buy a knitted product of different color and various design.  Still, over the past few decades, hand-knitting seems to have made a comeback because more and more people have learned about the sedating effects of knitting, so it has become more popular as a means to suppress the negative effects of everyday stressful life.

As a matter of fact, scientific studies suggest that knitting has a several significant health benefits. The repetitive action of combining one stich to another and interlocking loops has a meditative effect as it makes the knitter focus on the knitting, while leaving all worries behind.  Brain specialists have also found that knitting, just like any other mental exercise, makes the human brain more resilient and thus affects the production of brain hormones, that is, it leads to the increased secretion of the hormones that make us feel happy, such as serotonin and dopamine, while decreasing the secretion of the stress hormones.

Knitting has also been found to help prevent stress, pain and depression, which in turn strengthens the immune system of the knitter and results in decreased blood pressure and heart rate.  It has also been linked to reducing the risk of developing Alzheimer’s disease and dementia.

Moreover, many people have realized that your own handmade knitted products are unique and more creative than anything that you can buy in stores.  You will certainly take pride in your new hand-knitted hat, scarf or mittens when going out during the chilly winter nights or when going to work, taking the children to school or doing the shopping in the frosty winter mornings.  You can even knit a Christmas or birthday present for your partner, spouse, children, friends, parents or grandparents and thus show to your grandmother (if she used to knit or hopefully still knits) that you are a chip of the old block.

When it comes to cold weather, you must have noticed that when you walk outside during the winter, the part of your body that reacts first to the cold is your head.  The reason for this is that most of your body heat is lost through your head first, leaving your entire body cold.  This is why this book will show you how to knit 14 different easy, but useful and stylish hats that will help you not only fight off the cold in late autumn or in winter, but will also make you look chic and unique.

You will only need a yarn of the color you like or your choose for that particular hat, knitting needles of different sizes, a few ancillary tools, a bit of time and patience and then you can use the listed 14 easy knitting patterns not only to keep your head and ears warm, but also to look lovely.  These hat knitting patterns are intended for beginners, but even advanced knitters may find them interesting and enjoy working according to them.

Most of these simple knitting patterns can be used for hats of different sizes, that is, both for adults and children, and most of them are unisex, but this book will still review separately the knitting patterns for hats designed especially for women, hats made primarily for men and cute little hats for infants, toddlers and older children.

Although knitting is traditionally related to women, modern men, too, have begun to take up knitting as a hobby, both as a way to soothe their minds after a stressful day at work or at home and also in order to make a perfect and creative present for their loved ones or for themselves.

So, regardless of whether you are a man or a woman, a boy or a girl, old or young, employed or unemployed, single or married, fan of traditional needlework or adventure seeker, prepare your knitting kit and knit, knit, knit.

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Chapter 1 – Basic Steps of Knitting a Hat

Perhaps you have never knitted a hat before, so here are a few basic steps that you need to know.

Step 1: Choose knitting needles

Knitting needles come in all shapes and sizes because they actually define the appearance of your stich.  Yet, when knitting a basic hat, the most suitable are the circular needles.  The standard circular knitting needle is US size 8, like the one on the image below, but anything up to size 10 could be used just as well.

Circular knitting needle US #8

In order to finish off your hat, you will also need a darning needle or a crochet hook, like the ones in the images below.

Darning needles

Crochet hooks

Some knitting patterns require a yarn needle or a tapestry needle for the finishing touches.

Yarn needles

Tapestry needles

Step 2: Select yarn

Before choosing your yarn, you need to keep in mind which style you want.  You will probably need only one skein, but select those that are a bit thicker because thicker yarns are much easier to work with and they are less time-consuming, unlike the thin yarn.  You will still have to check the yardage of the ball that you buy to see that you have enough to finish off your hat.

Step 3: Prepare additional tools

You will need some additional tools before you start knitting, such as scissors, a measuring tape, a stich holder and different kind of stitch markers, or, if you do not have stitch markers, safety pins, hairpins or paper clips will do (like on the images below). You may also have sundry bags in which to keep all these necessary extras, as well as your knitting, yarn and needles.

Improvised stitch markers

Step 4: Measure head

This is a very important step because this is the only way to determine how many stiches you need to knit so that the hat matches perfectly your head or the head of the person for whom you are knitting the hat.  If you are making a present, bear in mind that the average adult head is approximately 22 inches in circumference, while that of a child is about 18 inches.

First of all knit a swatch and see how many stiches you need to knit per inch.  Multiply the size of your head by the number of stiches needs per inch as this will be the number of stiches you will need at the base of your hat.  For example, if you make a hat as a gift for an adult, multiply 22 inches with four stiches per inch and the result will be 88 stiches.  It is good that this number is divisible by eight because this makes it easier when you have to decrease the number of stiches as you move to the top of the hat.  Even if you get another number, you should round down to a number divisible by eight because this is safer than rounding up, given that yarn stretches easily, while it does not shrink so easy.

Step 5: Knit a cast on

As all knitting begins with a cast on, you will have to do this first with the number of stiches required for the base of your head.  For example, you will have to use the 88 stiches that have been mentioned above.

Step 6:  Join cast on stiches

You will have to join your cast-on stiches in the round and the best instrument to do this is with a circular knitting needle.  While doing this, you need to be careful not to twist the stiches because you will spoil your hat.

Step 7: Start knitting

You will then begin the actual knitting by going around all the way.  You may want to try the hat from time to time to see how many more rounds you need to make.  You need to knit for a bit longer because the brims created by a circular needle roll on their own.

Step 8: Begin finishing

Finishing actually means to begin decreasing, that is, to knit two stiches at a time, so that the hat can fit your head or the head of the person for whom it is intended.   To make things easier, you should place safety pins to mark the stitches every 8 stitches and, when you reach the two stiches before the safety pins that are used as a marker, you need to decrease.  You should resume this pattern and decrease every round.  In this way the hat will become smaller and start acquiring its final shape.

When you have four stiches left on your needle, cut the yarn, while leaving a tail longer than 15 inches to finish off the hat.  To tighten the top of the hat, take a crochet hook or a darning needle and pull the loose yarn through the remaining four stiches one at a time and then remove the needle.  Use the crochet hook to take the excess yarn and put it down the top of the hat so that it ends on the inside of the hat and is not visible from the outside.  Then shorten it to about a few inches, weave it in with a darning needle down the length of the hat in order to make it secure and to hide the seam.  You can do this with the starting tail as well.

Now that you know the basic steps of knitting a hat, the only thing you need to learn or be reminded of are the abbreviations that are normally used in knitting patterns.  Here are some of the most frequently used knitting abbreviations given in alphabetical order that will help you find your way through the 14 knitting patterns explained in this book.

KNITTING ABBREVIATIONS:

* = repeat whatever follows the *

[ ] = work direction

() = work instructions between parentheses, in the place directed
beg = beginning
bytb = bring yarn to back
ch = chain(s)

CO = cast on
dec = decrease

DPNS = double pointed knitting needles
inc(s) = increase(s)

K = knit
k2tog = knit next two stitches together

K1-B = knit into next stitch in row below
kfb = knit 1 stitch in the front, then in the back
m1 = make one new stitch
p = purl
p2 tog = purl next 2 sts together

PSSO = pass slipped stitch over
rem = remain(ing)

rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)

st(s) = stitch (es)

St st = Stockinette stitch
tog = together
tbl = through the back loop

YO = yarn over

Yoh = Yarn over hook

Chapter 2 –Knitting Patterns for Colorful Women's Hats

In the bleak winter days, people wish to see some color and brightness that will remind them of the warm spring or summer days.  This is why in this chapter you will find five easy knitting patterns that will help you knit colorful and stylish women's hats.  You will thus look like a butterfly in the snow blizzards or in the rain, bringing a breath of fresh air to the grim surrounding.

1. Candy Pink Hat

This cute hat requires merely basic knitting skills, so it is perfect for beginners and yet the final product is both trendy and warm.

Materials:

1. US #10.5 and US #11 circular knitting needles 16 inches long.

2. One ball of Red Heart Heads Up yarn no. 701, color candy pink

3. Stitch marker (or any of the abovementioned variants)

4. Yarn needle

Gauge: 10 sts and 16 rows by 4 inches with larger needles.

Instructions:

Brim:

With smaller needles, CO 52 sts.

Join, while being careful not to twist the stitches and begin working on the round. Place marker at the beginning of the round.

Rounds 1-14: *K2, P2; repeat from * around for ribbing.

Body:

Knit body with larger needles.

Rounds 15-17: *P3, K1; repeat from * around.

Rounds 18-20: P1, *K1, P3; repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2.

Repeat rounds 15-20 four times.

Repeat rounds 15-17 one last time.

In the last round:* Purl next 2 sts together (P2tog), K2tog; repeat from * around (26 sts).

Finish by cutting yarn and leaving a 12” tail.  With yarn needle, thread yarn tail through all stiches twice. Tie top of hat as tightly as possible without breaking yarn.  Weave in ends.

2. Seed Stitch Beret

This beret is extremely easy to knit and it is a perfect accessory both in winter and in autumn, when you can merge in with the falling leaves.  It looks rather cool and stylish, so it will be a lovely present either for yourself or for your dear ones.

Materials:

1.  16"-long US #10.5 & and US #15 circular needles

2. US #15 DPN

3.  Chunky yarn (the yarn used in the photo above is Lionbrand Hometown)

4.  Stitch marker.

Instructions:

CO 40 stitches with the US #10.5 knitting needles.  Use knit 1, purl 2 ribbing for the next 10 rows.  Knit till you get to 54 stitches by *knitting 2 stiches, knit 1 stitch in the front, then in the back (Kfb), * rep to end of round.

Take the larger circular knitting needles.

*Purl 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, *rep to end of row.

*Purl 1, knit 1, *rep to end of this round.

*Knit 1, purl 1, *rep to end of this row.

*Knit 1, purl 1, *rep to end of this row.

Work for between fifteen and twenty rows.  If you want your beret to be slouchier, knit more rows. Use the DPNs in your last row.

Last row: *knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, *rep to the end of row. Pull the yarn through the stitches that have remained and tie it off.

3. Simple Beret

Materials:

1.  About 50 grams of Double Knit (DK) yarn (an angora DK looks even better)

2.  US #7 and US #3 needles

Gauge: 5 stiches and 6 rows by 1 inch with larger needles

Instructions:

Stockinette stitch (St st) knitted in reverse.

CO 5 sts with larger needles

Row 1: Purl

Row 2: Knit, increasing in every stitch but in the last nine stitches

Row 3: Purl

Row 4: Rep second row (17 stitches)

Row 5: Purl

Row 6: Rep second row (33 stitches)

Row 7: Purl

Row 8: (K1, increase in next st) to the end (49 stitches)

Row 9: Purl

Row 10: (K2, inc in next st) to the end (65 stitches)

Row 11: Purl

Row 12: Knit

Row 13: Purl

Row 14: (K3, inc in next st) to end 81 sts

Row 15: Purl

Row 16: Knit

Row 17: Purl

Row 18: (K4, inc in next st) to end (97 sts)

Row 19: Purl

Row 20: Knit

Row 21: Purl

Row 22: (K5, inc in next st) to end (113 sts)

Row 23: Purl

Row 24: Knit

Row 25: Purl

Row 26: (K6, inc in next st) to end (129 sts)

Row 27: Purl

Row 28: Knit

Row 29: Purl

Row 30: (K7, inc in next st) to end (145 sts)

Work 2.5 inches in St st, ending on a purl row.

Next row: (K7, K2tog) to end (129 sts)

Work 2.5 inches in St st, ending on a purl row.

Take smaller needles and work 1.5 inches K1 P1 rib.

Cast off leaving a 15-inch tail.

Join the seam invisibly, leaving yarn in the sewing up needle, twist it several times like making a twisted cord.  Place the twisted yarn between your index finger and thumb about 0.75 inches from the beret and fold it back so as to form a spike.  Then draw the sewing needle back to the reverse side and fasten it tightly.

4. Lace Beret

Materials:

1. US #7 needles

2. Two balls of Patons Cotton Twist yarn, the color on the image above is lime no. 0073

Gauge:

18 sts and 32 rows by 4 inches in garter stitch

19 sts and 21 rows by 4 inches in Wave Lace

Instructions:

Wave Lace Stitch Pattern:

Row 1 (RS): k1, *k2tog 3 times, (k1, yarn over (YO)) 6 times, k1, k2tog 3 times; rep from *, k1

Rows 2 and 4: p all sts, including yarn overs

Row 3: k CO 154 sts. Purl 1 row.

Knit Wave Lace Stitch Pattern.   When your hat measures 6.25 inches ending with fourth row, decrease on first row by omitting all yarn overs (106 sts)

Continue in pattern and decrease every 4th row twice more (10 stiches)

K 1 row.

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.  Using a tapestry needle, thread the tail through the remaining stiches and pull it tightly to close the top.  Weave in ends on wrong side.

Pick up 154 sts along CO edge.

K Row 1, dec 72 times evenly across row by working k2tog (82 sts)

Work in garter st (knit every row) until band measures 2 inches.  Bind off.

Finish by sewing seams and weaving in ends.

5.  Aurora Borealis Beret

This is my favorite because I like both the colors used and the name of this beret.  This beautiful multicolor beret is guaranteed to make heads turn to see the shining Northern Lights.

Materials:

1. US #9 and US #11 circular knitting needles

2.  One set of US #11 DPNs 16 inches long

3. Yarn needle

4. One ball of Red Heart Boutique Midnight yarn no. 1951, tropical color.

Gauge: 13 sts = 4 inches 16 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st using larger needles.

This beret (or any beret for that matter) is knit in the round using circular needles.  Use the DPNs when you decrease the stitches to shape the crown.

Instructions:

CO 80 sts using the smaller circular needles. Place the marker, join, be careful not to twist stitches.

Rows 1-6: Knit 2 sts, purl 2 sts for 2x2 Rib stitch pattern until you reach 1.5 inches from the cast-on edge.

Rows 7-10: Take larger circular needles, k4

Row 11 (Increase): knit into the front and into the back of the next stitch 4 times (84 stiches)

Row 12: K

Row 13: *K2tog, yarn over. Rep from * around.

Rows 14-19: K

Row 20: *Knit 2 stiches together, yarn over. Repeat from * around.

Row 21-25: K

Row 26: start decrease by knitting 2 stitches together 4 times (80 stiches)

Row 27: *knit 2 stiches together, yarn over. Rep from * around.

Row 28: K

Knit crown:

Row 29: *knit 3 stitches, knit 2 stiches together. Rep from * around (64 stiches)

Row 30: K

Take the double pointed knitting needles and evenly arrange the stitches on three needles.

Row 31: *knit 2 stiches, knit 2 stiches together. Rep from * around (48 stiches)

Row 32: K

Row 33: *knit 1 stich, k2tog. Rep from * around (32 stiches)

Row 34: K

Row 35: *knit 2 stiches together. Rep from * around (16 stiches)

Row 36: K

Row 37: *knit 2 stiches together. Rep from * around (8 stiches)

Row 38: K

Finish by cutting the yarn, but leave an 8”-long tail.  With the yarn needle, pull a tail through the remaining eight stiches twice, tighten and fasten off. Weave in all loose ends.

Chapter 3 – Knitting Patterns for Trendy Men's Hats

If you want to surprise and impress your husband, boyfriend, brother, friend, here are four simple and yet trendy knitting patterns for men's hats that will not only keep them warm, but also make them look fashionable.

6. Cody Hat

This hat is most suitable for men with thick and/or long hair, but it can be suitable for any fashionable person.  The hat on the picture above is made from Hempathy yarn, which is quite resilient, so you can toss it, wash it, do whatever you want with it, but it will still look great.

Materials:

1.  Hempathy yarn in three colors (choose whatever colors you want)

2. US # 2 and US #3, 40 circular needles 16 inches long

Gauge: 10-11 stitches by 18 rows over a square of 2"x2"

Instructions:

To do the Cody hat decrease, you shoul cast on 100 stitches with the first color (acid green on the picture above) onto a circular needle size 2.  Join in and leave a longer tail to collect the stitches of the cast-on edge after the 18th round.

Rounds 1-16: K all sts

Round  17: P all sts

Rounds 18 - 34: *knit 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch*, repeat until end of round

Round 19: Use the tail to collect each of the stitches in the cast on with a circular needle. Line up the stitches on the circular needles, but try to keep the new circular needle behind the old.  K1tog from each needle.  Continue K1tog process from each needle to form a tube when there are no more stitches on second needle.

Rounds 20 - 21: K all sts

Round 22: Change to second color, while leaving first color to back of work. K all sts.

Round 23: *K9, M1*, rep 9 times. (110 sts)

Round 24: Change to third color 3, leaving second color to back of work. K all sts.

Rounds 25-26: K all sts

Round 27: Continue with second color, while putting third color at the back of the work.  K all sts.

Round 28: K all sts.

Round 29: Continue with first color, while putting second color at the back. K all sts.

Rounds 30-31: K all sts.

Round 32: Put third color at front, while first color at back of work. K all sts.

Round 33: K all sts.

Round 34: Put second color at front, while third color at back of work. K all sts.

Rounds 35-36: K all sts.

Round 37: Bring third color behind second color. K all sts.

Round 38: K all sts.

Round 39: Put first color at front, third color at back of work. K all sts.

Rounds 40-51: Repeat rounds 20-31

Rounds 52: Carry up second color, dropping first color to the back. *Knit 22 stitches, put marker*, rep * 4 times

Rounds 53-54: *K 22, put marker*, rep * 4 times

Rounds 55: *knit 1 stitch, k2tog, knit until three stiches away from marker, slip slip knit slipped stitches together, knit 1, put stitch marker*, rep * 4 times.

Rounds 56-57: k all sts, slip marker.

Rows 58-69: Repeat rounds 55-57

Row 70: Repeat round 55

Row 71: Knit all sts, put marker

Rounds 72-77: Repeat rows 70-71

Round 78: *knit 2 stitches together, slip slip knit slipped stitches together*, rep * 4 more times

Round 79: Knit all stiches, remove markers.

Round 80: Cut thread and use a tapestry needle to pass thread through all open stitches. Pass needle through the inside of the hat and weave in loose ends.

7. His scull hat

This is not only a cute, but also a comfortable winter hat that is easy to knit.

Materials:

1.  One skein of Red Heart With Love yarn (color 1401)

2.  US #8 knitting needles

3.  Yarn needle

Gauge: 14 stiches by 4 inches; 32 rows by 4 inches in the Shaker Rib pattern.

2x2 Rib stich patterns

1st row (right side): K2, P2.

2nd row: Knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stiches.

Repeat first and second row.

Shaker Rib Stitch

1st row (Wrong Side): Knit.

2nd row: K1, *K1-B, P1. Repeat from * to last two stiches, K1-B, K1.

Repeat first and second rows.

Instructions:

Cast on 82 stitches.

1st row: Work in 2x2 Rib stitch pattern until 3” from cast-on edge.

2nd row: Decrease 9 stiches on

3rd row: *Knit two stiches together (K2tog), K8. Repeat from * to final 2 stiches, K2tog (73 sts).

1st row (wrong side): Work in Shaker Rib stitch pattern until 7” from cast-on edge and end on a right side row.

Knit crown:

1st row (wrong side): K1 *Sl 1, K2tog, pass slipped stich over, K4. Repeat from * to last 2 sts, K2 - 53 stiches.

2nd row: K1, *K1-B, P1. Repeat from * to last two stiches, K1-B, K1.

3rd row: Knit.

4th row: K1, *K1-B, P1. Repeat from * to last two stiches, K1-B, K1.

5th row: Knit.

6th row: K1, *K1-B, P1. Repeat from * to last 2 stiches, K1-B, K1.

7th row: K1 *Sl 1, K2tog, PSSO, K2. Repeat from * to last two stiches, K2—33 sts.

8th row: K1, P1, *K1-B. Repeat from * to last st, K1.

9th row: Knit.

10th-15th rows: Repeat eighth and ninth rows three times.

16th row (Right Side): K2tog across row to last st, K1 (17 sts).

Cut the yarn leaving a 15”-long tail. Use yarn needle to pull tail through remaining stiches twice, fasten and sew seam. Weave in ends.

8.  Jogless Stripes Hat

Materials:

1. Three skeins of different colored of Plymouth Encore or any other worsted weight yarn

2. US #2 circular needle 16 inches long

3. US #4 circular needle 16 inches long

4.  24-inch long US #4 needle or US #4 DPNs

5. Stitch marker

6. Tapestry needle

Gauge:  23 stiches and 33 rows per four square inches in Stockinette stitch with a US 4 needle

Instructions:

Using size 2 needle, cast on 114 stiches in first selected color, place marker and join in round.

Rows 1-8: K2, P1

Switch to size 4 needle and second color.

Row 9: Knit round

Round 10: Slip one stitch purlwise, knit remaining row

Rows 11-14: Knit row

Change to third color, repeat rows 9-14

Change to first color, repeat rows 9-14

Change to second color #2, repeat rows 9-14

Change to third color, repeat rounds 9-14

Change to first color, repeat rounds 9-13

Decreasing:

Row 1: knit 6 stiches, *knit 2 stiches together, then knit 10* (you will have 105 stiches at this point)

Row 2: Start using second color, knit round

Row 3: Slip one stitch purlwise, knit rest of row

Row 4: knit 3 stitches, *Knit 2tog, Knit 9 stiches* knit two two stiches together, knit 1 stich (you should have 95 stiches at this point)

Rows 5-6: knit one whole round

Row 7: knit 6 stiches, *Knit 2 stiches together, Knit 8 stiches* K 2 stiches together again, knit 7 stiches (you will have 86 stiches now)

Row 8: Switch to third color and knit a whole round once again

Row 9: Slip one stitch purlwise, knit rest of row

Row 10: knit 4 stiches, *knit 2 stiches together, knit 7 stiches* knit 1 stich (your work will go down to 77 stiches)

Row 11: Once again knit a whole round

Row 12: knit 2 stitches, *knit 2 stitches together, knit 6 stiches* knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stich (you should have 67 stiches)

Row 13: Repeat row 11

Row 14: Use first color once again, *knit 2 stitches together, knit 5 stitches*, knit 2 stitches together, knit 2 stitches (your hat should have 57 stiches at this point)

Row 15: Slip one stitch purlwise, knit rest of row

Row 16: knit 2 stitches, *knit 2 sticthes together, knit 4 stitches*, knit 1 stitch (now you should have 48 stiches)

Row 17: Repeat row 13

Row 18: K1, *K2tog, K3* K2tog (38 stiches)

Row 19: Repeat row 17

Row 20: *Knit 2 stitches together * (you should get to 19 stiches at this point)

Row 21: *K2tog*, join by knitting the final stitch of row 21 with the first stitch of row 22.

Row 22: *K2tog* until you have only six stiches left. Cut the yarn, but leave a tail. Use a tapestry needle to pull the yarn through the six inches that you have left. Pull tight, secure with a knot and finally weave in all ends.

9. Earflap Hat

Materials

1. 110 yards of chunky yarn in the main color and 40 yards of chunky yarn in the contrasting color

2. US #9 DPNs

Gauge: 16 stiches by 4 inches

Instructions

Earflaps:

CO 8 stiches and knit first six rows in garter stitch.

7th row: k 3, m1, k2, m1, k 3

8th row: k3, p 4, k3

9th row: k3, knit to three stiches before the end of the row, k3

10th row: k3, purl to three stiches before the end of the row, k3

11th row: k3, m1, knit to three stiches before the end of the row, m1, k3

12th row: k3, purl to three stiches before end of row, k3

Repeat the 9th-12th rows until 18 stiches are on the needles. Knit the ninth and tenth rows once. Break yarn, place stiches on holder and make second earflap.

Hat brim:

CO 24 stiches. On right side knit stiches from the first earflap off holder and onto needles.  Then repeat the same moves with the second earflap.

Join stiches.

1st round: p 27 stiches, k 12 stiches, p 30 sts, k 12 sts, p 3 sts.

2nd round: k one round

Repeat first two rows to get a total of four rows at this point.

Instructions to knit hat body:

Starting with the first row, knit in accordance with the color charts given below.  In the fields marked with x, knit one stich with the contrasting color, while in the blank fields use the main color.

Knit until the hat measures 6” from the bottom of the brim.

Hat crown:

1st row: *k 12 stiches, k2tog, repeat from * to end of row

2st row and all other even rounds: knit

3rd row: k 11 sts, k2tog, repeat from * to the end of the round

5th row: k 10 sts, k2tog, repeat from * to the end of the row

7th row: k 9 sts, k2tog, repeat from * to the end of this row

9th row: k 6, (8) sts, k2tog, repeat from * to the end of the row

11th row: k 5, (7) sts, k2tog, repeat from * to the end of this row

13th row: k 4, (6) sts, k2tog, repeat from * to the end of the row

15th row: k 3, (5) sts, k2tog, repeat from * to the end of this round

17th row: k 2, (4) sts, k2tog, repeat from * to the end of the row

19th row: k 1, (3) sts, k2tog, repeat from * to the end of this row

21st row: *k 2, k 2tog, repeat from * to the end of row

23rd row: *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to the end

Knit one round.

Last row: *k2tog, repeat from * to end of row.  Six stiches remain.  Break yarn, leaving an 8” long tail.  Thread yarn back through last stiches and pull tight.

On inside edge of left earflap, pick up two stiches and make a 2.5”long i-cord for the button loop. Bind off and sew the loose end to the earflap to create a loop.  Sew the button to the opposite earflap.  In the end, weave in the ends.

Chapter 4 –  Knitting Patterns for Cute Children's Hats

Here are five adorable and simple children's hats that you can make either for toddlers or for older children.

10.  Christmas Ornament Hat

This knitting pattern looks like a Christmas decoration, so it will be a perfect Christmas gift for your children.

Materials:

1.  About 130 yards of worsted weight yarn

2. About 13 yards of metallic yarn for the top of the hat

3.  US #8 16" circular needles

4.  A set of US #8 double pointed needles

Gauge: 16 stiches by 4" in St st

Instructions:

CO 81 stiches. Be careful not to twist them, join and mark beginning of round.

Knit in St st until 7".

Begin decreases (decreasing 9 stitches every decrease row) switching to double points when sts no longer fit.

Row 1: *K7, k2tog* repeat around

Row 2: K

Row 3: *K6, k2tog* repeat around

Row 4: K

Row 5: *K5, k2tog* repeat around

Row 6: K

Row 7: *K4, k2tog* repeat around

Row 8: K

Row 9 (begin color pattern): K2 MC, *K1 metallic, K4 worsted weight yarn* repeat around, ending with K2 MC

Row 10: K

Row 11-12: K1 worsted weight yarn, *K3 metallic, K2 worsted weight yarn * repeat around, ending with K1 worsted weight yarn

Row 13-15: K with metallic

Row 16 (turning row): Purl with metallic

Row 17: K with metallic

Begin crown decreases:

Row 18: *K3, k2tog* repeat around

Row 19: *K2, k2tog* repeat around

Row 20: *K1, k2tog* repeat around

Row 21: *k2tog* repeat around

Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Thread through with tapestry needle and thread through stiches on needle. Pull tightly to close top of hat.

Crochet chain for hanging loop and attach to top.

11. Holly Hat

This is yet another Christmas-motif hat that will make a great Christmas present.

Materials:

1.  About 2 ounces of heavy worsted weight yarn

2.  US #9 16" circular needles

3.  US #9 double pointed needles

Gauge: 16 stiches by 4 inches

Instructions:

CO 72 sts.

Join, be careful not to twist sts. Knit in St st for 6".

Crown decrease:

1st round: k6, k2tog; rep around

2nd round: knit

3rd round: k5, k2tog; rep around

4th round: knit

5th round: k4, k2tog; rep around

6th round: knit

Continue until 9 stiches remain. Change to DPNs when sts no longer fit.

Draw yarn through all stitches on needle.

Add pom-pom, tassel or holly.

Or to make a stem:

Do not draw yarn through sts.

Join green yarn.

K2tog around until 3 sts remain.

Work I-Cord for 2 to 3 inches.

Draw yarn through the 3 sts on needle and pull through center of stem.

12. Pumpkin Hat

This is yet another cute child's hat with a Halloween motif, so you child can wear it during the trick-or-treat hours.

Materials:

1. US #9 16 inch-long circular needles

2. US #9 double pointed needles

3.  One ball of heavy worsted yarn

Gauge: 16 stiches by 4 inches

Instructions:

Cast on 63 stitches, join and mark beginning of row.

*Knit 8 stitches, purl 1 stitch; repeat from * all around.

If you are knitting this hat for a baby, they you should knit until you get to 5 inches or, if you are doing it for a toddler, knit until you reach 6 inches.

Begin decreasing:

Round 1: *knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, purl 1; repeat from * around.

Round 2: knit according to pattern, knit the stitches that should be knitted, while purling the stitches that should be purled.

Round 3: *knit 2 stitches together through the back loop, knit 5 stitches, purl 1 stitch; repeat from * around.

Round 4: repeat second round

Round 5: *knit 4 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, purl 1 stitch; repeat from * around.

Round 6: repeat second round

Round 7: *knit 2 stitches together through the back loop, knit 3 stitches, purl 1; repeat from * around.

Round 8: *knit 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together, purl 1 stitch; repeat from * around.

Round 9: *knit 2 stitches together through the back loop, knit 1 stitch , purl 1 stitch; repeat from * around.

You can use either brown or green yarn for the stem at the top.

Round 10: *knit 2 stitches together, purl 1 stitch; repeat from * around.

Round 11: *knit 2 stitches together through the back loop all around.

Knit three rounds and then decrease every round by one stitch until you have three stitches left.

Knit a 4-inch long i-cord, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1 stitch and bind off.

Cut the yarn and, with a tapestry needle, go down through the stem and fasten it off along with the end of the orange yarn of the body of the hat.

13. Cotton Candy Hat

You have to admit that this is an adorable hat for toddlers aged 1-3 and it is easy to knit.

Materials:

1.  US #8 circular needle 16 inches long

2.  US #8 double pointed needles

3.  US #10.5 needles for flower

4.  Worsted weight yarn in bright colors

5.  Tapestry needle

6.  Stitch marker

Gauge: 24 stitches and 17 rows by 4 inches

Instructions:

CO 72 stiches.

Place marker and join in round, but be careful not to twist.

Knit six rounds of k2, p2 ribbing.

Knit each round until hat measures 6.5” from cast-on edge.

Decrease:

1st row: k2, k2tog around

2nd row: knit

3rd row: k1, k2tog around

4th row: knit

5th row: k2tog around

Break yarn with tapestry needle and leave long tail.  Thread through remaining stitches, pull tightly, weave in ends.

Flower:

CO 10 stiches.

1st row: knit each stich in the front, then in the back (KFB) to end of row (20 stiches)

2nd row: Purl

3rd row: KFB each stich to end of row (40 stiches)

4th row: Purl

5th row: KFB each stich to end of row (80 stiches)

6th row 6: Purl

7th row: KFB each stich to end of row (160 stiches)

Bind off all stiches.  Attach flower to hat and weave in ends.

14.  Lollipop Hat

Materials:

1.  US #6 and US 4 circular knitting needles

2.  US #6 double pointed knitting needles

3. 125 yards of DK wool yarn.  You can use Dia Twist DK or Cloud DK by Color Adventures.  The colors used in the picture above are Georgin, Citrus, Lemon, Fresh Leaves, Forget Me Not, Blue Bell and Blush.

4.  Stitch marker

Gauge: 21-22 sts per 4 inches in stockinette stitch.

Instructions:

Using main color and US #4 needles, cast on 85 stiches. Join in the round and knit 8 rounds. You should have 90 sts.

Knit one more round in main color and change to US #6 needles.

Then knit with as many colors you want until the hat measures 5 inches from the rolled-up rim or 6 inches from the cast-on edge.

Crown Shaping

Round 1: *skp, k6, k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. Total 72 sts.

Rounds 2-5: knit

Round 6: *skp, k4, k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. 54 sts.

Round 7-9: knit

Round 10: *skp, k2, k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. 36 sts.

Round 11-12: knit

Round 13: *skp, k2tog* repeat to the end of the round. 18 sts.

Round 14: knit

Round 15: *k2tog* repeat to the end of the round.  9 sts.

Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches and fasten off. If you want to put a pom-pom on top, then leave about 25 cm/10 inch tail to attach it.  Weave in all loose ends.

The seven colors in the hat pictures above are in the following sequence from bottom up:

8 rounds, *6 rounds, 4 rounds, 3 rounds, 3 rounds, 3 rounds*, repeat * * to the end. Each number of rounds represents a different color.

Conclusion

So, now you have 14 new knitting patterns to make stylish hats for children, women or men.  You can choose not only the size, but also the color and the design of these fashionable woolen hats.  You do not need to be an expert in knitting to make one of these hats.  Just follow the instructions listed above and you will eventually get a chic and useful product.

The knitted hats will keep your head warm during the cold winter days and will increase your blood circulation, thus keeping your whole body warm and boost your immune system, which will in turn fight off viruses and diseases.

Moreover, while knitting, you will relax your mind, enjoy the soothing movements and keep your hands busy, which is very useful when it comes to stress relief and certain addiction treatments.  For example, it may come in handy if you are trying to quit smoking.   Besides its mental and physical benefits, the knitting process eventually leaves you with a creative and practical knitted product that will make you proud of yourself and therefore increase your self-confidence and your sense of purposefulness.

You can bring a splash of light to the freezing winter days by wearing some of the colorful hats presented above and cheer up not only yourself, but also your family, friends, coworkers and even the passersby.

You can bring joy and color into the lives of your dear ones by presenting them with one of these creative and unique hats that you will make from a scratch, which will make them appreciate this gift even more.  Make your parents and grandparents proud of you for preserving this needlework tradition and potentially even handing it over to the next generation.

It would really be a pity not to foster this simple and yet useful hobby that requires little time, patience and love, but that has such great health benefits for the knitter and yields such wonderful results.  Do not let this lovely tradition be a thing of the past, but follow in your grandmothers' and your great grandmothers' footsteps and start knitting.

Good luck!

How To Crochet

Basic Learn-to-Crochet Instructions for Hand Stitched Accessories for You and Your Family!

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Basic Crocheting Steps

Chapter 2 – Crocheted Winter Accessories

Chapter 3 – Crocheted Summer Accessories

Conclusion

Copyright Notice

© Copyright 2015 by Green Alpaca Solutions - All rights reserved.

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While all attempts have been made to verify the information provided in this book, the author does not assume any responsibility for errors, omissions, or contrary interpretations of the subject matter contained within. The information provided in this book is for educational and entertainment purposes only. The reader is responsible for his or her own actions and the author does not accept any responsibilities for any liabilities or damages, real or perceived, resulting from the use of this information.

Introduction

Needlework can be a very creative and useful hobby because it soothes the brain, alleviates stress, tension and anxiety, slows down the heart rate and reduces blood pressure, thus contributing to your overall physical and psychological wellbeing.

This book will consider one special needlework technique in particular: crochet, which can be used to make a whole variety of fashion accessories for the entire family.  The crochet method begins with the making of a slip knot, then wrapping the yarn around the crochet hook that is used for this type of needlework and eventually pulling a loop through the slip knot.

People often confuse knitting and crocheting because both of these handicrafts use yarn, special patterns and the same abbreviations.  Moreover, they both require similar skills, such as hand-eye coordination, creativity, patience, perseverance and desire to learn.

The main difference between knitting and crocheting, though, is that, while knitting can be done with looms and knitting machines, crocheting is always done exclusively by hand.  Furthermore, different types of knitting needles are used for knitting, but crocheting is performed by using a single crotchet hook.

Moreover, in knitting the loops build on each other and each stich depends on the support of the stitch below, whereas in traditional crotchet there is usually only one active loop, so, although the stitches build on top of each other, the active loop is the only unraveling spot.

When it comes to crocheting, you can use a different type of yarn and therefore produce different fabrics. If you use softer yarns, you will create a delicate fabric, while thicker yarn creates a sturdy fabric.

You can crotchet either in rows if your work is flat or you can join the stitches, thus creating a ring and working in rounds if you are crocheting hats or any other circular crocheted products.

Crocheting requires flexible and relaxed fingers so that you can manipulate the yarn and make the basic loops and then the chain stitches, which will eventually take you to your final product.

This book will show you the basic steps of crocheting and the key crocheting techniques whereby you can make crocheted accessories for the entire family.  You can surprise your spouse and your children with unique, practical and primarily easy crocheted accessories that they can use throughout the year.

You only need a crochet hook and a yarn of your or your family members' favorite color, so you can start crocheting by following the simple crocheting instructions presented in this book.

Chapter 1 – Basic Crocheting Steps

Step 1: Make a slip knot

Make a slip knot around the crochet hook and wrap the yarn around the hook.

Step 2: Make a chain stich

Hold firmly the slip knot with your left hand, while winding the yarn clockwise and catch it with the crotchet hook.  Use the hook to pull the yarn through the slip stich that you are holding and you will make one chain link.  Repeat this process to make a so-called chain stitch.

Step 3: Make a single crotchet

Make a chain of about 20 chain stitches.  Slip the crochet hook into the second loop in this chain.  Grab the yarn with the hook and pull it through the loop.

You will now have two loops on the crochet hook.  With these two loops on the hook, grab the yarn again and pull it through both loops.  You will then end up with just one loop on your hook once again, but you will get the so-called single crochet.

The single crotchet is the smallest and simplest crochet stich which gives a firm look to the fabric.

Step 5: Make a double crotchet

This is a long crochet stich that creates a more open fabric.  This is why it is suitable for making scarves or sweaters because it is looser than other stitches, so the fabric provides greater comfort.

Make a chain with as many chain links as you like, but make two more chains than the number of stitches.  Wind the yarn around the hook and insert the hook from front to back into the fourth chain.

Yarn over the hook once again and pull the yarn through a loop.  You should have three loops on the hook at this stage.  Slide the hook between the first two front loops on the hook, so that two loops remain on the hook.  Yarn over the hook again and slide it through the last two hoops on the hook.  You will now obtain a double crochet stich.

Make one double stich into each chain until the end of the round.  Then turn your work around and double crochet the next round.  To achieve this, make three chain stitches, which will be regarded as the turning stich and that will be of the same height as one double crochet stich.  Skip the first stich, but make the first double crochet stich into the second stitch.  Work until the end of the row making the last double crochet stitch on the top of the turning chain of the previous round.  Continue doing this for as many rounds as you need and then fasten off.  At this point your work should look like this:

Now that you have learned the basic crochet stitches, you can move onto the next steps and follow the listed crocheting patterns to make lovely accessories for your family and for yourself.

Before we move onto the next stage, here are some of the frequently used crochet abbreviations that will come in handy while interpreting the knitting patterns:

* = repeat whatever follows the *

[ ] = work direction

() = work instructions between parentheses, in the place directed
bet = between
ch = chain
dc = double crochet
rep = repeat
ea = each
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = [insert hook in the next stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch] twice, yarn over and draw the yarn through all 3 loops on hook
sk – skip
sl st = slip stitch
sp = space
st(s) = stitch(es)

Chapter 2 – Crocheted Winter Accessories

You can follow these simple crocheting patterns to crochet a hat, scarf or mittens for your husband, wife, younger or older children.  You can make a creative and practical Christmas or birthday present for your loved ones as these winter accessories are both useful and fashionable.  They will warm the peripheral parts of your body, such as your head, shoulders and hands, which are known to be freezing very quickly and will make you look trendy, colorful and bright during the bitterly cold winters.

1.  Crocheted Stripes Hat

This hat can be made both for women and men, the only difference being the color you chose for both sexes and the size of the circumference, which is 20" for women and 22" for men.  You can  crochet the same pattern in different colors for yourself and your husband, as well as for your teenage or student daughter or son.  It will be quite interesting if the entire family wears a comfortable and warm hat of the same design.

Materials:

1. Two balls of the Cascade Fixation yarn (in the picture above the first color used is Denim, #2608) and one ball of the second color (the second color in the picture above is silver, #8418).  You can choose whatever color you want depending on whether you are making this hat for a man or a woman.

2. US #5 crochet hook

Gauge: five double crochets by 1 inch, 8 rows by 2.5 inches

Instructions:

For the pattern above you need to work two rounds in the first color and one round in the second color.

Row 1: With the first color, make four chains with crochet hook, make12 double crochets in the fourth chain from the hook, join with a slip stitch to the initial chain.

Row 2: make three chains, make two double crochets in each double crochet around and join with a slip stich to the three chains. (You should have 24 double crochets)

Row 3: Make three chains, *make two double crochets in the next double crochet, make a double crochet in the next double crochets *; repeat between **. (You should have 36 double crochets at this point)

Row 4: Make three chains, *make two double crochets in the next double crochet, a double crochet in next two double crochets *; repeat between **. (Your hat should consist of 48 double crochets at this stage)

Row 5: Make three chains, *make two double crochets in the next double crochet, a double crochet in the next three double crochets*; repeat between**. (You should have 60 double crochets)

Row 6: Make three chains, *make two double crochets in the next double crochet, one double crochet in the next four double crochets *; repeat between *". (You should have made 72 double crochets by now)

Row 7: Make three chains, *make two double crochets in the next double crochet, a double crochet in the next five double crochets *; repeat between **. (Your hat should have 84 double crochets)

Row 8: Make three chains, *make two double crochets in the next double crochet, one double crochet in the next six double crochets *; repeat between **. ( You should have 96 double crochets)

Row 9: is for women's hat only: make three chains, increase by four double crochets evenly around. (You should make 100 double crochets and the hat should be 7” in diameter)

Row 9 for men’s hat only: make three chains, *make two double crochets in the next double crochet, one double crochet in the next seven double crochets*; repeat bet **. (The men's hat should have 108 double crochets)

Row 10 for men' hat only: Make three chains, increase by two double crochets evenly around. (You should make 110 double crochets and the hat should be 8” in diameter)

Work one round in a reverse single crochet stitch. Finish off and weave in ends.

2.  Cute Flower Hat

The circumference of the hat should be 16 inches for a baby, 18 inches for a toddler, 20 inches for a child and 22 inches for an adult female.

Materials:

1.  100-150 yards of DK or Sport weight yarn.  The color of the yarn on the picture above is Cascade Ultra Pima.

2. A 3.75mm crochet hook

3. A strip of fabric sized 2.5 inches x 18.5 inches (for the flower)

4. A button 25mm in diameter.

5. A yarn needle

6. Scissors

7. Needle and thread

Gauge: four shells worked over nine rows measures 4.0625" by 3.083".

Instructions: Gauge swatch

The special stitch used in making this crocheted hat is the so-called V-stitch (V-sts): make (double chain, one chain, double chain) in the same stitch.

Round 1: make single stitch in second chain from hook, * skip next two chains, make five double crochets in the next chain (this will make one shell), skip next two chains, make a single crochet in the next chain; repeat from * across.  You should have four shells and five single crochets.

Round 2: [make four chains, then turn; make a double crochet in the first single crochet (this is regarded as a V-stitch)], make one chain, * skip next two double crochets, make a single crochet in the next double crochet, skip next two double crochets, make one chain, make a V-stitch in the next single crochet, make one chain; repeat twice from *, skip next two double crochets, make a single crochets in the next double crochet, skip the next two double crochets, make one chain, work a V-stitch in the last single crochet. You will not have five V-stitches and four single crochets.

Round 3: make one chain, then turn, make a single crochet in the first V-stitch, * make five double crochets in the next single crochet, make a single crochet in the next V-stitch; repeat from * across.  You will get to four shells and five single crochets.

Rounds 4-9: Repeat second and third rows three times.

Finish off.

Hat body

Make four chains, join with a slip stitch in the fourth chain from the hook to form a ring.

Round 1: make a chain, work seven stitches in a ring for a baby hat, eight stitches for a toddler hat, nine stitches for a child and 10 stitches for an adult; join with a slip stich in the first single crochet.  This will leave you with seven, eight, nine, or 10 single crochets, respectively.

Round 2: make one chain, two single crochets in each single crochet around; join with a slip stitch in the first single crochet.  You will have 14, 16, 18 or 20 single crochets, respectively.

Round 3: [make four chains, a double crochet in the same stitch (this is a V-stitch], make a double crochet in the next single crochet, * make a V-stitch in the next single crochet, make a double crochet in the next single crochet; rep from * around; join with a slip stitch in the third chain of the beginning of the fourth chain. You will now have seven, eight or 10 V-stitches, respectively, and the same number of double crochets.

Round 4: make a slip stich in the first chain one space of the first V-stitch, make four chains, a double crochet in the same space, make two double crochets in the next double crochet, *make a V-stitch in the next V-stitch, and two double crochets in the next double crochet; rep from * around; join with a slip stitch the third chain with the beginning of the fourth chain. You should now have seven, eight, nine or 10 V-stitches, respectively, and 14, 16, 18 or 20 double crochets, respectively.

Round 5: make a slip stitch in the first chain one space away from the first V-stitch, make four stitches, a double crochet in the same space, make a V-stitch in the space between the next two double crochets, *make a V-stitch in the next V-stitch, make a V-stitch in the space between the next two double crochets; rep from * around; join with a slip stitch the third chain with the beginning of the fourth chain.  You should have 14, 16, 18 or 20 V-stitches, respectively, at this point.

Round 6 (for a baby hat):  make a slip stitch in the first chain one space of the first V-stitch, make three chains, two double crochets in same space, a single crochet in the space between the recently made V-stitch and the next V-stitch. *Make five double crochets in the next V-stitch (you will thus make a shell), make a single crochet in the space between the recently made V-stitch and the next V-stitch; rep from * around, make two double crochets in the same V-stitch as the beginning of the third chain, join with a slip stitch in the top chain of the beginning of the third chain.  You should have 14 shells and 14 single crochets at this point.

Round 7 (for a hat for toddlers, children and adults): make a slip stitch in the first chain one space from the first V-stitch, make four chains, make a double crochet in the same space, a double crochet in the space between the last-worked and the next V-stitch. *Make a V-stitch in the next V-stitch, make a double crochet in the space between the most recent and the next V-stitch; rep from * around; join with a slip stitch in the third chain of the beginning of the fourth chain.  You should have 16 V-sts for a toddler's hat, 18 V-sts for a child's hat and 20 V-sts for an adult's hat and just as many double crochets, respectively.

Round 8:  make a slip stitch in the first chain one space of the  1st V-stitch, make three chains and two double crochets in the same space, a single crochet in the next double crochet, *five double crochets in the next V-stitch (you will make a shell in this way), make a single crochet in the next double crochet, rep from * around, make two double crochets in the same V-stitch as the beginning of the third chain; join with a slip stich in the top chain of the beginning of the third chain.  You should now have 16 shells and 16 single crochets.

Round 9 (for a child's hat): make a slip stitch in the first chain one space of the first V-stitch, make four chains, make a dc in the same space, make a V-stitch in the next double crochet, * make a V-stitch in the next V-st, a V-st in the next dc; rep from * around; join with a slip stitch in the third chain of the beginning of the fourth chain.  You should have 36 V-stitches at this stage.

Round 10: Make a slip stitch in the first chain one  space of the first V-stitch, make three chains and two double crochets in the same space, make a single crochet in the next V-stitch, *make five double crochets in the next V-st (you will make another shell), make a single crochet in the next V-stitch; rep from * around,  make two double crochets in the same V-stich as the beginning of the third chain;  join with a slip stitch in the top chain of the beginning of the third chain.  You will now have 18 shells and 18 single crochets.

Round 11 (for adult's hat) : Make a slip stitch in the  first chain one space of the first V-st, make four chains and a double crochet in the same space, a V-stitch in the next double crochet, a V-stitch in the next V-stitch, a double crochet in the next double crochet; *a V-stitch in the next V-stitch, a V-stitch  in the next double crochet, a V-stitch in the next V-stitch, a double crochet in the next double crochet; rep from * around; join with a slip stitch in the third chain of the beginning of the fourth chain.  You should have 30 V-stitches and 10 double crochets now.

Round 12: Make a slip stitch in the first chain one space of the first V-stitch, make four chains, make a double crochet in the same space, make a V-stitch in each of next two V-stitches, make a V-stitch in the next double crochet, * make a V-stitch in each of the next three V-sts, make a V-st in the next double crochet; rep from * around, join with a slip stitch in the third chin of the beginning of the fourth chain.  You should have 40 V-stitches.

Round 13: make a slip stitch in the first chain one space of the first V-stitch, make a third chain, make two double crochets in the same space, make a single crochet in the next V-stitch, *make five double crochets in the next V-stitch (you will thus make shell), make a single crochet in the next V-stitch; rep from * around, make two double crochets in the same V-stitch as the beginning of the third chain; join with a slip stitch at the top of the beginning of the third chain.  You should now have 20 shells and 20 single crochets.

These last two rounds are suitable for all the sizes and should be repeated five, six, seven or nine times, respectively, until the hat fits.

Round 14: make one chain, make a single crochet in the same stitch, skip the next two double crochets, make one chain, make a V-stitch in the next single crochets, make one chain, *skip the next two double crochets, make a single crochet in the next double crochet, skip the next two double crochets, make one chain, make a V-stitch in the next second chain, make one chain; rep from * around; join with a slip stitch in the first single crochet. You should have 14, 16, 18 or 20 singe crochets, respectively, and 14, 16, 18 and 20 V-stitches at this point.

Round 15: make three chains, make two double crochets in the first single crochet, make a single crochet in the next V-stitch,* make five double crochets in the next single crochet, make a single crochet in the next V-stitch; rep from* around, make two double crochets in the same V-stitch as the beginning of the third chain; join with a slip stitch in top of the beginning of the third chain.  You should have 14, 16, 18 and 20 shells, respectively, and 14, 16, 18 and 20 single crochets, respectively.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

You should finish by blocking the hair lightly by sprinkling some water on it and putting it on an inflated balloon or if you find a head of a mannequin doll with the same size as the head of the person who should wear the hat or you can just lay it on a flat surface to dry.

Flower-making instructions:

Fold the strip of fabric in a zigzag manner, making nine 2 inches-wide folds.  The folded edges should pile up on top of each other.

At about half an inch from the straight edge, starting at one folded edge, cut a rounded M-letter shape to form a petal, like in the image below.

Unfold the strip and with the needle thread all the way up the long edge of the strip. Pull thread tightly to gather the center of the flower. Overlap the short ends of the fabric to form the flower shape and then turn over the flower.  Sew the button on the top of the flower and sew the flower to the hat.

3. Crochet Mittens for Whole Family

The hand circumference of the mittens is 6 inches for a child, 7.5 inches for an adult woman and 9.5 inches for an adult man, while their length is 7.5 inches for a child, 11.5 inches for a woman and 12 inches for a man.

Materials:

1. One skein of Red Heart Super Saver yarn of the following colors: Tea leaf #624 (this is the first color), Soft Navy #387 (this is the second color) and Shaded Dusk # 984 (this is the third color).

2.  A 5.5mm crochet hook

3. Stitch markers (you can use either original stitch markers or improvise with paper clips or hair pins)

4. Yarn needle

Gauge: 16 single crochets by 4 inches, 17 rows by 4 inches

The men’s mittens are in one color, while the child’s and women’s mittens are made in stripes in the following way: make two-row stripes for child’s mittens, end with five rounds of the third color at the fingertips. Make one-row stripes for women’s mittens, end with seven rounds of the first color at the fingertips.

Cuff-making instructions

Make cuffs using the third color given above for the child's mittens, the second color for the women's mittens and the first color for the men's mittens.

Round 1: work in back loops only, make a single crochet in the second chain from the hook and each chain across, make one chain and turn. Rep first round until you have 18 rounds for child's mittens, 22 rounds for women's mittens and 24 rounds for men's mittens. Fold the cuff in half and join the ends with a slip stitch. Do not fasten off.

Hand-making instructions

Row 1: work along the row ends on the cuff and make a slip stitch evenly around for 18 stitches for child's mittens, 22 stitches for women's mittens and 26 stitches for men's mittens; join round with a slip stitch.

Row 2: make one chain, then place a marker, [make a single crochet in the next 8 stitches for child's mittens, 10 stitches for women's mittens and 12 stitches for men's stitches, make two single crochets in the next stitch] twice. Join with a slip stich [for 20, 24 or 28 stitches, respectively].

Row 3: make one chain, [make a single crochet in the next 9, 11 or 13 stitches, respectively, make two single crochets in the next stich] twice. Join with a slip stich [for 22, 26 or 30 stitches, respectively].

Row 4: make one chain, [make a single crochet in the next 10, 12 or 14 stitches, respectively, make two single crochets in the next stich] twice. Join with a slip stitch [with 24, 28 or 32) stitches, respectively].

For child’s mittens continue with the final row.

For women’s mittens: make one chain, [make a single crochet in the next 13 stitches, two single crochets in the next stich] twice. Join with a slip stitch.  You should have 30 stitches.

For men’s mittens: make one chain, [make a single crochet in the next 15 stitches, two single crochets in the next stitch] twice. Join with a slip stitch.  You should have 34 stitches now.  Repeat, making one more stich before increasing each round, for two more rounds.  You should end up with 38 stitches.

Final row: Continue with the stripe patterns for child's and women's mittens or with the one-color pattern for men's mittens, make one chain, make a single crochet in each single crochet around and join with a slip stitch. Rep for one row for child's mittens or three rows both for men's and women's mittens.

Thumb Opening

Next round: make one chain, [make a single crochet in the next 20, 26 or 32 stitches, respectively, make four, five, or six chains, respectively, skip the remaining stitches and join with a slip stitch to the first stich.

Upper Hand

Make a single crochet in each stich around for 8, 10 or 12 rows, respectively (you should have 24, 31 or 38 stitches, respectively], decrease one stitch on the last round only for the women’s mittens only.  This will leave you with 24, 30 and 38 stitches, respectively.

Row 1: Make 10, 13 or 17 single crochets, respectively, then repeat twice the following move: [insert hook in the next stitch, yarn over, draw the yarn through the stitch] twice, yarn over and draw the yarn through all the three loops on the hook -- sc2tog. You should have 22, 28 or 36 stitches, respectively.

Row 2: [make 9, 12 or 16 single crochets respectively, make sc2tog] twice.  You should have 20, 26 or 34 stitches, respectively.

Row 3: [make 8, 11 or 15 single crochets, respectively, sc2tog] twice.  You should have 18, 24 or 32 stitches, respectively.

Row 4: [make 7, 10 or 14 single crochets, respectively, sc2tog] twice.  You should have 16, 22 or 30 stitches, respectively.

Only for child’s mittens: Sc2tog until you obtain eight stitches and then fasten off. Continue with the thumb.

Row 5: make a single crochet in each stitch around.

Row 6: [make nine single crochets for women's mittens or 13 for men's mittens, sc2tog] twice.  You should have 20 or 28 stitches, respectively.

Next 2 rounds: Sc2tog to get five or seven stitches. Fasten off at the end of the last round.

Thumb

Round 1: Join the yarn to the thumb opening with the stitch that is closest to the upper hand, make one chain, make a single crochet in each stitch around, join with a slip stitch.  You should have eight, nine or 12 stitches, respectively. Make a single crochet in each stitch around for four, seven or eight rows, respectively.

Next round: Sc2tog, make a single crochet to three stitches from the last stitch, make a single crochet with the last two stitches to obtain 6, 7 or 10 stitches, respectively. Sc2tog, make last stitch as a single crochet on the women’s mittens.  You should have 3, 4 and 5 stitches, respectively. Fasten off and weave in ends.

4. Crocheted Circle Scarf

Materials:

1.  Two balls of Universal Classic Shades yarn in color # 716, Roman Candle  (this is the first color) and one ball of Classic Shades Solids in color #608,  Turquoise (this is the second color)

2.  One 4.5 mm crochet hook

Gauge: 4" x 4” for one motif

Instructions:

First motif with the first color given above

First of all, slide a loop.

Row 1: make three chains (this will be regarded as one double crochet), make five double crochets in the sliding loop.  You should have six double crochets.

Row 2: make three chains, make one double crochet in the first double crochet, *make two double crochets in the next double crochet; repeat from * across.  You should have 12 double crochets.

Row 3: Repeat second row.  You should have 24 double crochets.

Row 4: Repeat second row.  You should have 48 double crochets. Fasten off with the first color.

Row 5: With the second color make a single crochet in the first double crochet, *make three chains, skip one double crochet, make a single crochet in the next double crochet; repeat from * to end, join with a slip stitch in the first single crochet.  Fasten off with the second color.

For the first motif of the scarf, work rows 1-5 of the motif pattern given above.

For 2-15 motifs: Work the first four rows of the motif pattern given above.   Then in the fifth row, which is actually the joining row, use the second color to make a single crochet in the first double crochet, [make one chain, make a slip stich in the second chain of row 5 of the motif given above make one chain, skip one double crochet, make a single crochet in the next double crochet] four times, * make three chains, skip one double crochet, make a single crochet in the next double crochet; repeat from * to end, join with a slip stitch in the first single crochet. Fasten off with the second color and weave in ends.

5. Crocheted Afghan Scarf

Materials:

1. One skein of fingering yarn

2. One Afghan hook #4

3. One crochet hook #1

Gauge: 11 stitches by 2 inches

Instructions:

Round 1: in the first part of the round work with the Afghan hook. Keep all loops on hook, skip first single crochet, pull up a loop in the second single crochet and in all the others singe crochets left.  You should have 60 loops on the hook.

In the second half of the round, yarn over the hook, pull through the first loop, *yarn over the hook, slide it through the next two loops, rep from * till one loop remains.  Make one chain and do not turn the yarn.

Round 2: make a loop under the first upright bar that is formed by the loop of the previous row, yarn over and pull through both the loops on hook.  You will this make a single crochet in the upright bar.  Make a single crochet in each upright bar to the last vertical bar, put the hook through the last bar and loop directly behind to complete one single crochet. Make one chain and turn. Rep the first two rounds for the pat.

Scarf:

Begin at the narrow edge and make 61 chains measuring 11 stitches to 2 inches. Make a single crochet in the second chain from the hook and in each other chain across.  You should have 60 single crochets at this point.  Make one chain and turn.  Make the pat until the scarf reaches 40 inches, end the second round, cut the yarn and fasten off.

To finish, with the crochet hook, make one row of single crochets evenly around the entire outside edge beginning from the right side, making three single crochets in every corner.  Try to keep your work flat. Then join with a slip stich to the first single crochet and turn.  Make a slip stich in each single crochet around, join and finish off.

Fringe:

To make the fringe, cut four 7"-long strands of yarn. Double them to make a loop. On the right side, put the crochet hook in the corner stitch on the narrow edge and pull the loop through.  Pull the loose ends through the loop and tighten with a knot.  Space the fringes evenly.

Chapter 3 – Crocheted Summer Accessories

In the previous chapter, we have considered a few winter accessories, so, in this one, we will review some easy crocheting patterns for summer accessories that will keep you cool during the hot summer days and make you unique at the beach.

1. Crocheted Summer Hat with Brim

Materials:

1. Two skeins of Phildar White Cotton Akala #4 and some green cotton yarn.

2. A 3.75 mm crochet hook

Gauge: 14 double crochets, 9 rows by 4 inches

Instructions:

Row 1: make one chain, make 10 single crochets in a ring, join with a slip stich on the top of the chain.

Row 2: make one chain, make two single crochets in each single crochet, join.  You should have 20 single crochets.

Row 3: make two chains, make a double crochet in the same stich, two double crochets in the next single crochet, *one double crochet in the next single crochet, two double crochets in the next single crochet*. Rep ** and join.  (30 double crochets)

Row 4: make two chains and one double crochet in the same stich, make one double crochet in the next double crochet, *two double crochets in the next double crochet, one double crochet in the next two double crochets*. Rep ** and join. (40 double crochets)

Row 5: make two chains and one double crochet in the same stitch, one double crochet in the next two double crochets, *two double crochets in the next double crochet, one double crochet in the next three double crochets*. Rep ** and join. (50 double crochets)

Row 6: make two chains and one double crochet in the same stitch, make one double crochet in the next three double crochets, *make two double crochets in the next double crochet, one double crochet in the next four double crochets*. Rep ** and join. (60 double crochets)

Row 7: make two chains and one double crochet in the same stitch, one double crochet in the next four double crochets, *two double crochets in the next double crochet, one double crochet in the next five double crochets*. Rep ** and join. (70 double crochets)

Rows 8-15: make one chain and one double crochet in the same stitch and one double crochet in each double crochet around, join.

Row 16: Use a contrasting color to make one chain and half a double crochet all around. Join.

Brim

Row 17:  make two chains and one double crochet in the same stitch, a double crochet in the next two double crochets, two double crochets in the next double crochet, make one chain, skip first* two double crochets in the next double crochet, one double crochet in each of the next two double crochets, two double crochets in the next double crochet, one chain, skip 1*. Rep ** and join. (98 stitches)

Rows 18-19: make two chains and one double crochet in the same stitch, one double crochet in each of the next five double crochets, one chain, *one double crochet in each of the next six double crochets, one chain*. Rep ** and join.

Row 20: make two chains and one double crochet in the same stitch, make one double crochet in each of the next four double crochets, two double crochets in the next double crochet, one chain, *two double crochets in the next double crochet, one double crochet in each of the next four double crochets, two double crochets in the next double crochet, one chain*. Rep **and join.

Row 21: make two chains and one double crochet in the same stitch, one double crochet in each of the next seven double crochets, make one chain, *make one double crochet in each of the next eight double crochets and one chain*. Rep **, join and finish off.

2.  Lacy Baby Hat

Materials:

1. Light/DK yarn

2. One 3.5 mm crochet hook

3. Stitch marker

This hat is suitable for small babies until 3 months of age.

Instructions:

Round 1: make three chains and 12 double crochets in ring, join.  You will have 12 double crochets at this point.

Round 2: make three chains and two double crochets, slip marker in this space as join, two double crochets in each, join. (You will have 24 double crochets)

Round 3: make three chains (two double crochets in one double crochet, one double crochet in next) around, join. (You will have 36 double crochets now)

Round 4: make three chains, (make two double crochets in one double crochet, one double crochet in the next two double crochets) around, join. (You will have 48 double crochets)

Round 5: make two chains, (two double crochets in one double crochet, a double crochet in the next three double crochets) around, join. (You will have 60 double crochets)

Round 6: make three chains, (two double crochets in a double crochet, one double crochet in the next four double crochets) around, join. (You should have 72 double crochets)

Round 7: make one chain, make a single crochet join, (make two chains, skip next double crochet, make a double crochet in the next double crochet) 35 times, make two chains, make a slip stitch to the first single crochet.

Round 8: Make a slip stich in two chains space, one a chain, make a single crochet in space, (make two chains and a single crochet in the next space) 35 times, make two chains, make a slip stitch to first single crochet.

Round 9: Repeat 8th round.

Round 10: make one chain and a single crochet in space, (make a single crochet in the next single crochet and in next space) around, join with a slip stitch to first single crochet. (You should have 72 double crochets now)

Round 11: make two chains and half a double crochet each single crochet around, join to one stich of half a double crochet.

Round 12: make one chain and a single crochet to join, (two chains, skip one half a double crochet, make a single crochet in next) around, make two chains and a slip stitch to first single crochet.

Rounds 13-17: Rep rounds 8-12.

Round 18: make one chain, make a single chain, slip a marker in space (make three chains and a single crochet in the next space) around, make three chains and a slip stich to first single crochet.

Rounds 19-22: rep 18th round.

Round 23: make one chain, a single crochet in space (six double crochets in the next space and a single crochet in the next space) 18 times, six double crochet in the last space, join with a slip stitch to first single crochet. (You will obtain 18 shells)

Finish off and weave in ends.

3. Classic Granny Square Purse

Although purses are not exclusively summer accessories, the lightness of these crocheted bags reminds me of the beach and of hot weather, so I have decided to include them in this chapter.

Materials:

1. One skein of Classic Elite Provence yarn

2. One 3.75 mm crochet hook

3. Readymade handles about 16 inches long.

4. Needle and thread

Gauge: One, 4 rounds of Granny Square by about 4" x 4"

Instructions:

Make an adjustable ring by holding the tail end of the yarn in your left hand your right-hand ring and pinky fingers. Then wrap the yarn twice around your index and middle fingers.  Put the loop between and slide it off your fingers. Insert the crochet hook from the front to the back through the ring and make a loop and make three chains (these count as the first double crochet).

Round 1: work two double crochets in a ring, (two chains and three double crochets) three times, make two chains, make a slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning of chain-3 to join. Make a slip stich to the corner space.

Round 2: [make three chains (this counts as a double crochet), two double crochets, two chains and three double crochets] in space, make one chain, [(three double crochets, two chains, three double crochets) in space, one chain] 3 times, make a slip stitch to third chain of beginning of chain-3 to join.

Round 3 and 4: make a slip stitch to the next corner space. Make three chains (this counts as a double crochet). Make (three double crochets, two chains, three double crochets) in each corner space and (one chain, three double crochets, one chain) in each chain with one space between.  Make a slip stitch to the third chain of the beginning of chaib-3 to join. Fasten off.

Finish by joining squares. *Insert the hook through the back loop only of the corner stitch of each square, yarn over the hook and pull through; repeat from * down side to join.  Fasten off. Sew the readymade handles with a needle and a thread.

4. Classic Crocheted Bag

Materials:

1. Four balls of Classic Elite Yarns Bella Lino, #8593, Clear Skies

2. One 3.5mm crochet hook

Gauge: 24 stitches and 28 rows by 4 inches

Instructions:

Bottom of bag: make an adjustable ring, work eight single crochets in a ring, and make a slip stitch to join.  Tighten.

Round 1: make two single crochets in each stitch (you should have 16 single crochets).  Make a slip stich to join.

Round 2: *make a single crochet in the next stitch, make two single crochet in the next stitch; repeat from *. You should have 24 stitches.

Round 3: *Make a single crochet in each of the next two stitches, work two single crochets in the next stitch; repeat from *. You should have 32 stitches at this point.  Continue like this, making a flat circle by working one additional single crochet between increases every round until the bottom of the bag obtains the desired size.  The bag shown above is about 10” in diameter.

Side of bag: make a single crochet in each stitch around until the side of the bag measures 11 inches or the desired height from marker.

Last round: make a slip stitch in every stitch around to reinforce the top edge. Finish and weave in ends. If you want, you can line it with fabric and then sew the readymade handles on the bag.

Conclusion

In this book, we have reviewed five winter accessories that will keep your whole family warm in the cold late autumn and winter days and four summer accessories that will either protect your head from the sun or make you look trendy on the beach or when going for a walk during the long summer nights.

These accessories are practical because they will protect your body from the cold or from the hot weather, but they are also fashionable and creative crocheted products that are very easy to make if you follow the patterns listed above.

You can make a lovely present for your family members, which they will certainly appreciate because it is handmade.  All you need is a yarn of your favorite color or the favorite color of the person for whom the present is intended, a crochet hook, some time and patience and you will end up with a lovely and unique crocheted product.

If you do not succeed the first time, do not despair because, as mentioned in the introduction, in crocheting there is one critical spot that you can unravel and then start all over again.   With some practice you will make your fingers more flexible and you will be able to make the required slip knots without any problem whatsoever and then make the single crochet and the double crochet that are used in the crocheting patterns listed in this book.  Be patient and bear in mind that the final product will be trendy, stylish, useful and of special importance to your family as you have handstitched it yourself.

Crochet Stitches for Intermediates

12 Modern Dress and Skirt Crochet Patterns for Trendy Designs

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Patterns for Short Sleeved Dresses

Chapter 2 – Everyone Needs One Crochet Long Dress!

Chapter 3 – Skirts! Easy, Simple and Ultra Trendy

Chapter 4 – Colorful Patterns: Embrace The Spirit of Spring and Summer

Chapter 5 – Patterns for Long Skirts

Chapter 6 – Reminder: Crocheting Dictionary

Conclusion

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Introduction

Crocheting is a great hobby providing even greatest results, because you are allowed to have a creative freedom while crocheting and later get to use what you make.

Cute crochet dresses and skirts are gaining on its popularity, so we have decided to gather some amazing patterns for 12 beautifully designed skirts and dresses of different shapes to fit every style. Crochet dresses and skirts patterns we have in our Intermediate Guide for Crocheting are all extremely easy to follow up with if you have reached Intermediate level with your crocheting. The only thing thus left will be you enjoying while creating your favorite skirts and dresses.

There are so many ways to compliment your style with 12 patterns we found for you, so take your needles and yarn and start crocheting.

You will find all sorts of different dresses and skirts you can easily make and wear with pride: long sleeved, short sleeved dresses, short skirts and long skirts in one color or with colorful patterns – it all depends on your personal style and look you want to achieve.

Now, get ready to create so you can later dress to impress! Satisfaction of creating and crocheting your own dresses will contribute to be proud of your style even more.

Let’s get started and don’t forget to enjoy!

Chapter 1 – Patterns for Short Sleeved Dresses

Long waited summer is getting closer with each day passing by and you are probably already thinking about deserved holiday, seaside and vacations. Regardless of what your plans for the upcoming summer are, you probably want to look your best. That is why we are starting off with patterns for some of the trendiest short sleeves crochet dresses. Follow up with our instructions and start crocheting. If you still don’t have your yarn and hooks, it is time to grab them now and start creating!

Pattern #1: Simple Little Dress

Simplicity can sometimes be everything you need in order to glow with beauty and express yourself. Take a look at the pattern and try making your little short sleeved simple summer dress.

Crochet: You need 20 triple crochets (further tc) and 11 rows. Hook size to use would be the one of 3 mm, which equals proportion of 10 times 10 (10X10).

Decreasing: When beginning with each row, follow these instructions: you need SL ST over STS, so you could get DEC.

When ending rows, follow these instructions: there is no crocheting STS in order to get DEC.

Increasing: When beginning each row, follow these instructions: two TR in first STS.

When ending rows, follow these instructions: two TR in last STS.

Back: Follow the instructions below for increasing and decreasing. Crochet pattern should be 97; 105; 115 CH, working with 3mm hook. You need a single TR in the 4th CH ST, counting from the tip of your hook. Next is crocheting one TR  for every CH ST that equals 94; 102; 112 TR. You should include 2 TR to sew in, added to the previous pattern guideline.

Turn: Every row should be turned with crocheting 3 CH, which equals 1 ST for each row. Crochet TR, forth and back.

Use previous crochet guidelines available at the beginning of the pattern to follow up with crochet tension.

Once the piece is 24; 25.5; 25.5 cm, you should DEC a single TR for each side: 8; 10; 13 times.

For size S: alternate every second and third row.

For size M: alternate every other row.

For size L: alternate every other row to equal 78; 82; 86 TR.

Once the piece has 44; 47; 50 cm, you should include a single TR on each side for every other row, skipping a single row and making the one after that, following: 4; 4; 4 times which equals 86; 90; 94 TR. Once the piece is 56; 59; 62 cm DEC for each side, you need to make an armhole, following: 4 TR a single time and 2 TR for 2 times, which equals: 70; 74; 78.

Go on with crocheting. Once the piece you are making has 74; 78; 82 cm, you should then split it to make the hole for the neck. The middle of the piece should remain intact: 30; 30; 30 TR.

Each part should be done separately. DEC each side so you could give the neck hole a nice shape for each row, following: 30; 30; 30 TR

DEC for each row for the neck line is: 2 TR for 2 times and 1 TR for 2 times. Once the piece is 76; 80; 84, do 7; 8; 9 TR: close to neck and shoulder.

Front: Until the pieces reaches 66; 70; 74 in length, use the pattern as described for the back part. Next split the piece for the neck. The middle should remain intact, following: 30; 30; 30 TR. Each side ought to be done separately.  Crochet like back until piece measures 66 - 70 - 74 cm. Split for neck. Use DEC on each row to create a neckline: a single TR for 3 times and every other row: 1 TR for 3 times.  Once the piece is 76; 80; 84, do 7; 8; 9 TR: close to neck and shoulder.

Finish: Shoulders and sides should be sewed. DEC around armhole and neckline.

Pattern #2: Cover Up Beach Dress

Everyone needs one of these during their summer on the beach, so why not make one yourself?

Stitches:

CH, SC, SL ST, SK and Picot: CH 3 with SC from the base of CH 3

You will be crocheting in rounds until the arm holes are reached.

Bottom: Start off with making CH 180. Don’t twist the CH and SL ST to form a circle as you will be crocheting in rounds. You should have a 180 CH circle now.

Round 1: make CH 5 then SK 3 CH and DC, following: CH 5 and SK 3 CH SC going round.

To mark where the row starts, put in a different yarn (choose the color you like).

Round 2: once you are done with CH 5, SC through the middle of CH 3. Next do a picot, following: start from CH 3 and SC through the CH 3 base. CH5 around.

Round 3: start repeating once you reach the first ST from the last row you’ve finished, following: start from CH 5 from the last round and SC through the middle of the CH 3 then picot, following: start from CH 3 then SC through the base of CH 3, around the CH 5.

Rounds from 4 to 14: crochet by repeating round 3.

Fasten off.

Top: We are finished with the bottom cover up. Next is making the top of your cover up dress.

Turn your piece so your beginning row is facing you (you’ve marked it with a different yarn) then SL ST through a CH ST you choose.

Round 1: start with SC through the same SP, going through the next 3 SC and following SC 2 TOG. Next do 4 SC and SC 2 TOG, crocheting around.

After you are finished, you will have 150 ST.

Rounds from 2 to 3: start a CH 18 SC then SC 2 TOG going around to join to the ST 1. CH

Round 4: start a CH with 15 SC then SC 2 TOG crocheting around and joining with ST 1.

You are from this point working on the upper body towards finishing the chest part of the dress.

Round 5: start from CH 5 SK 3ST, following: SC CH5 SK3 ST. You will be repeating this pattern crocheting around.

Round 6: start CH 5 then picot through the CH 3 starting from CH 5 of your last row.

Following: from CH 5; picot, picot through the CH 3 and CH from CH 5 of your last row, going round.

Rounds from 7 to 25: you will repeat the previous round.

This is how your piece should look like by now.

Once you are finished with your last round, fold the piece and count ST. Insert small pieces of different yarn on each sides. You should have equal number of picots on both sides of the piece. Next, take off the yarn from both sides and insert new strand where your V neck should be (front length: half of it).

Stop working in rounds.

Row No. 26: Start from the point marked with yarn: CH 3 then picot through CH 3 from the last row of CH 5, CH 5 picot, following: CH 5, picot CH 3 from Ch 5, working until you make it to CH 5, before CH 3 of the row 26, picot through CH 3 of CH 5 then turn the piece.

Row No. 27: start from CH 3 and picot the third CH counting the fifth CH of 26th row, following CH 5 picot in CH 3 from the CH 5 last row. Once you reach CH 5 and make it to the CH 3 from the b until you reach the ch5, right before the ch3 from the beginning of the row 27.

Row No. 28: starting from CH 3 do picot in the third CH in the 27th row’s CH 5, following CH 5 then picot through the third chain from the last row CH 5 all the way till you make it to the CH 5 before CH 3 of the 28th row, counting from the beginning.

Row No. 29: start with CH 3 and do picot through the third chain of 28th row’s CH 5, following the crochet tension from the previous step and begin with the next row. Begin with arm holes and the neck line.

Rows from 30 to 43: start with CH 8 and do the picot through the center of CH 5, counting from the last row you’ve made, following the pattern from the last row. Do it for 5 times CH 8 and turn. Repeat this pattern until you have the exact amount of rows on the opposite side where the V neck is.

Fasten off.

Back: place the shoulders of your piece on your working spot in front of you.

Start counting from the right side of the shoulder straps. You need 3 picots.

Row No. 1: from the 29th round, SL ST through the third CH of CH 5, following the well known pattern from the steps below. Do it for 11 times then turn.

Row No. 2 start with CH 8 and do picot through the third CH from CH 5 of the last row, following the pattern from the steps below but for10 times.

Rows from 3 to 14: repeat the second row.

Your piece should be now faced to you from the opposite side. Attach the shoulder straps together on the back with using SL ST at the right side from shoulder. Use the well known crochet tension, repeating all the way across the straps then fasten off. Do the same for the left strap.

Chapter 2 – Everyone Needs One Crochet Long Dress!

How about making a beautiful crochet long dress? You will surely enjoy making it and even more later wearing it.

Pattern #3: Vintage Evening Dress

Although this dress looks fairly complex, you will see that it is not quite complicated as you will first start from the black circle then crochet around it without seaming. You will start from the bottom and go down, shoulders will be the last point to be made and the dress can fit sizes from 8 to 12 as you will make a lace as shown below.

You will also need to choose two colors, A and B.

Gauge: 3 DC equals 1 inch and 1 row equals 1 inch.

Front: start with color A from CH 3 then join SL ST into forming a ring.

Round 1: start from CH 3 crocheting with 11 DC through the ring. Join through CH-3 then CH 3 and turn.

Round 2: DC through the base of the CH-3, working through 2 DC across every DC going around. Next join 24 DC while counting CH-3 like 1 DC. CH 3 then turn.

Round 3: You will be REP round 2 for 48 DC.

Round 4: Start with DC through each DC going around. Join to CH 3 then turn.

Round 5: *You will be crocheting 2 DC through the following DC, DC through the next 5 DC and REP from *, going around. Join through 56 DC, CH 3 then turn.

Round 6: * DC through the next 5 DC, 2 DC through the next DC. REP from * going around. Join then turn.

Round 7: * 2 DC through the following 4 DC and DC through the next DC. REP from * going around. Join the yarn CH 3 and turn.

Round 8: SC through each DC going around. Join for CH 3 and turn.

Round 9: DC through every SC around. Join the yarn and finish fastening off.

Round 10: With Color B, dc in each dc around. Join. Ch 3, turn.

Round 11: You will REP the 10th round.

Round 12: REP round 10 then finish by fastening off.

Round 13: SC through every DC going around by using color 1. Join the yarn through CH 2 then turn.

Back: starting from the right side

Row 1: Using the color A stat SC through 17 SC, CH 2 then 2. REP row for 24 times than finish by fastening off.

Back Left Side: Starting from the bottom of the right side, start counting for 48 STS along the waist of the dress you are making.

Row 1: Using the color A you will SC through 17 SC, CH 2 then turn.

Row 2: Do SC along every SC, CH 2 then turn.

Skirt: Using the same color, you will start with a stitch from the low edge going from the left edge. SC along the front, do the right side and left side then join SL ST to CH 2 then turn. REP for a complete 10 rows then fasten off to finish.

Row 11: Change the color, using the color B then DC through every SC and do the SL ST. Next fasten off.

Row 12: Use the color 1 to do DC through every DC by SL ST. CH 3 then turn.

Rows from 13 to 39: REP 12th row until you reach the length you like.

Edges: this part has 5 rows of randomly spread DCS and STS.

CH STS are created in between DCS.

Left Shoulder: You will be skipping for 12 STS right above the left side of the piece.

Row 1: Using the color 1, do 1 DC through every of the next 8 STS. CH 3 then turn. REP for 4 rows adding then SL ST around back and fasten off to finish.

Right Shoulder: On the right side (above it), skip 12 STS.

Row 1: Using the color 1, do 1 DC through every of the next 8 STS, CH 3 then turn. Again REP for four times more and SL ST then fasten off.

Sleeves:

Row 1: Using the color 1 do the DC going around the arm hole. CH 3 then turn. Your edges should have 15 rows of random sets consisted of DCS and STS. That means that CH STS will be created in between DCS. DEC/INC the rows so you could get the length of sleeves to suit you.

Tie: Using both colors together you will be crocheting yarn CH that is 4 YDS long. Lace the back of your piece by making holes and pulling the lace through it.

Chapter 3 – Skirts! Easy, Simple and Ultra Trendy

It’s enough to be said that crochet skirts are simply adorable. There are so many designs and each can make you feel sexy, cute or make you look proper! Try out some really simple patterns and choose your style!

Pattern #4: Cover-Up Skirt

It’s trendy, gorgeous and handy on the beach. Pick your color and start making one.

Row No. 1: from the second CH counting from your hook SC in each CH across the piece. CH 4 then turn.

Row No. 2: through the fourth SC and DC 5. SK 3 through CH 1 and DC through the next SC, following: DC through the following SC. CH 1 SK 3. DC 5 through the next SC and SK 3 for CH 1. Through the next SC, DC. Counting 14 to 19 times –CH 3 then turn.

Row No. 3: In 1st DC you need 2 DC. DC second and third DCS to make a shell, following DC third and fourth DCS through shell. CH 1 5 DC 2 DCS to make a pair. CH 1, DC second and third DCS through a shell, counting from 14 to 19 times. Then DC third and fourth DCS through a shell. CH 1 DC 3 through the top of CH 3. Then CH 4 and turn.

Row No. 4: DC 5 2 DCS to make a pair. CH 1 DC through DC second and third DCS to make a shell, following: DC through third and fourth DCS into a shell. Ch 1 DC 5 DCS 2 to make a pair. CH 1 DC through second and third DCS to make a shell, counting from 14 to 19 times. CH 3 then turn.

Rows 5  to wanted length: repeat previous two rows until your cover up is your desired length. Finish.

Pattern #5: Short Lovely Summer Skirt

Use the round crocheting, going from the top to the bottom. First TR will be replaced with CH 3 in each round. First DC will be replaced with CH 1 in the round 1. Each round will be finished with SL ST 1 in the first TR, DC and CH.

Start crochet 151; 171; 187; 203; 231 CH to form a ring structure with SL St. The hook size should be 4mm.

TR 1 in each of the 1st CH 3, then * skip CH 1, TR 1 in each o the following CH 3*, you will repeat the pattern from * to *, finishing with using SL ST 1 through the 1st TR from the beginning of the Round, equaling: 114; 129; 141; 153; 174 TR. Proceed by TR 1 for each next TR. Once the piece is 10-15 -20 cm, INC TR 5, doing even in rounds.

Once the piece is 25; 26; 27; 28; 29 cm INC TR 48 to be even, equaling: 177; 192; 204; 216; 237 TR.

When piece measures 35; 36; 37; 38; 39 cm finish the border going across the bottom, following: *1 dc, skip 2 cm, 6 TR in the same TR, skip 2 cm*, repeat from *-*. Cut the thread and sew

Pattern #6:  Blue Wave Skirt

Tip: For adjusting the size of the skirt, smaller or larger, you need to manipulate the bands of TC. One band = CH 6 = approximately 3 cm at the top of the piece.

You will start from the top of the piece and start crocheting going down. The chain should be approximately 70 cm long and you will use CH 121 to join it into a ring by using a single SL ST through the 1st chain.

Round 1: Take a look at the first row in the chart below.  CH 5 equals TC through the CH 1.* skip across 2 CH and do TR 5 through the next chain, CH 1 then skip across 2 CH and TR 1 through the next CH, CH 1 and skip 2 CH then TR 3 through the next CH, CH 1 and skip 2 CH, do TR 1 through the next CH, CH 1 and skip CH 2 do TR 3 through the next chain, CH 1 and skip CH 2, TR 1 through the next chain, CH 1 *, repeating from * to * adding four more times. Finish up with 1 SL St through the CH 4 at the BEG of the row.

Round 2: equals the second row in the chart, following CH 5 that equals SC 1 and CH 4. * SC 1 through the middle TR from the TR group, CH 4 and Sc 1 through the single TR, CH 3 and SC 1 through the middle of the TR group, CH 3 and SC 1 through a single TR, CH 3*, repeating from * to *. Finish up with a single SL ST through the first of the CH 5 in the BEG of the starting row.

Follow the chart, so you can visualize the pattern, repeating the crochet stitches as described above. Crochet pattern will change once you reach rounds 4 and 6. The only thing you will do differently is change 3 TR groups to 5 TR groups. Through 5th and 7th round, you will also increase the number of CH for TR groups and TRS.

You will easily crochet your skirt by following our Diagram. The skirt should be about 40-50 cm long, but you can make it shorter or longer.

Once you are done, cut and fasten off. There is also a place to put a ribbon through, using the second row with TR groups, going from the top. Each number above CH loops shows an accurate number of CH.

Pattern #7: Gala Skirt

* DC 7 through SC 1, then skip 3 STS, do Sc 1, skip 3 STS, do SC 1, miss 3 STS and repeat from *.

Gauge: DC equals STS 21 along with 10 cm long 10 rows.

Start from the top going to the bottom with casting from 195 to 210 CH to attach the CHS  in rounds by using 1 SL ST. Crochet PATT G throughout arrows following crochet chart for 13 to 14 times. Make rounds as showed on the diagram below.

Rounds 1 and 2 should be done once, 2 and 4 2 times, 7th and 8th round should also be done once, rounds from 9 to 12 should be done twice, rounds from 17 to 19 once. You will do rounds from 20 to 23 for 3 times, going total 31 rounds. To the scallop edge, which is equal to a round 32, ignoring the previous PATT G. Evenly skip 2 STS four times, meaning twice.

The chart below is also meant for the matching top, but you will only need to follow up with the part of the chart showing how to crochet your Gala skirt.

Finish: You will do the ribbon by making a cord out of 4 threads through the round number 2.

Pattern # 8:  Sailing Striped Skirt

Stripes: *Crochet 2 SC rows with white, following 1 DC row along with 1 SC row using blue (navy)* You will be repeating from * to *. After each stripe is done, let the yarn upwards instead of cutting it.

Tip: when beginning, make each SC row with CH 1, beginning each DC row with CH 3. The previous crochet is not meant to replace first SC or first DC through the row.

You will be crocheting forth and back starting from the left side.

CH counting: 269; 292; 315; 339; 374; 409 by using the hook of 3mm in size.

After turning, start with 1 SC through the second Ch, counting from the hook. Next is working with 1 SC through every of the following: 1; 3; 5; 1; 1; 1 CH,  * skip CH  1 and start working on 1 SC through every of the following 6 CH*, you will be repeating from * to * as the rest of the row equals: 230; 250; 270; 290; 320; 350 SC.

Turn then start working on row one, using 1 DC for every SC.

Crochet one row with SC after turning and continue with stripe pattern as described above.

Once the piece is : 12; 14; 15; 17; 17; 19 cm, you should implement 10 markers in accordance with the following order: insert 10 markers in piece as follows: marker 1: 12; 13; 14; 15; 16; 18 STS and the remaining 9 markers should be implemented 23; 25; 27; 29; 32; 35 STS apart from each other. Next 11; 12; 13; 14; 16; 17 STS are left.

When you are at the next row, you will skip 1 ST before passing through each marker you’ve set, meaning DEC 10 STS.

You will repeat DEC at every 5 cm, following: 2; 2; 2; 2; 3; 3 more and  on every 3 cm, following:  2; 2; 3; 3; 2; 2 times. Next you will  do it at every 2 cm, following: 4; 4; 3; 3; 3; 3 times

Note: DEC after and before the market spots.

When every DEC is done, you will have 140; 160; 180; 200; 230; 260 STS for the rows and the piece you are making will then measure approximately 36; 38; 40; 42; 44; 46 cm.

You will be crocheting following stripe patterns until your piece reaches the length: 46; 48; 50; 52; 54; 56 cm. Blue stripe will be the last stripe in the line after which you will finish and fasten off.

Chapter 4 – Colorful Patterns: Embrace The Spirit of Spring and Summer

Want to take your crochet wardrobe to a next level and add some colors? No problem! We might have just what you are looking for.

Pattern # 9: Granny Squares

Granny squares can be extremely trendy and not granny at all if combined with modern designs. Let’s see how you can make a granny square skirt.

CH 6 with using color A, attach by using SL ST through the first CH. You should make a ring.

Start with CH 3 and TR for two times into a ring, following: CH 3, TR 3 times into a ring, for three times through CH 3. Through the top of CH 3, SL ST and make an end. Add another color through the corner by following: CH 3, TR 2 times, CH 2, TR 3 times, following: CH 2, TR 3 times through the next corner then CH 2 TR for 3 times through the same edge. Do it for 3 times, CH 2 then through the top of CH 3 SL ST.

Join the black color through the corner of the pattern by following: CH 3 and TR 3 times through the edge then CH 2 TR 3 times through the same corner then CH 2 by following: TR 3 times through the side, CH 2, TR 3 times, through the same corner, CH 2 for 3 times. Follow by CH 2 and TR 3 times through the next side then CH 2 SL ST to join black yarn through the top of 1st CH 3. End the yarn.

Make as many granny squares repeating the pattern above. Stitch them together into a lovely short skirt. You may need about 70 granny squares for a short skirt if your granny squares are small.

Pattern # 10: Pattern #3: Summer Dress A-Line

Very simple to be made and very pleasant to be worn. Try it out and see for yourself.

You will need to crochet in round, unless it is stated otherwise in the following pattern.

YARN 1

Top: Create loop by make CH 140 SL ST into the first chain.

Row No. 1: Starting from the CH 1, ST into every ST to make 140 CH. Next SL ST into the CH 1.

Row No. 2: ST into 50 stitches going next from the ones you’ve made, starting from CH 1, following HDC, DC, TR and 2DC, in the next ST. DC in the following 18 STS, following: 2 DC, TR, DC, HDC. For CH 1, SL ST into the CH 1

Row No. 3: Starting with CH 1, ST for the next 52 STS, following: HDC, DC, TR and 2 DC for the next ST. DC for the next 22 STS, following: 2 DC, TR, DC and HDC for the next ST. ST in the next 54 ST, following: HDC, DC, TR and 2 DC for the next ST. Next DC in following 22 ST, following the pattern: 2DC, TR, DC and HDC for the next ST.  ST for the remaining two ST, then SL ST into the first CH (CH 1).

Row No. 4: Starting from H 1, ST for the next 54 STS, following HDC, DC, TR and 2DC for the next ST. For the next 26 STS, DC. Following 2 DC, TR, DC and HDC into next ST*. Next ST for the new round of 58 STS. *Repeat in the last 4 STS. SL ST the CH 1 and bind the yarn.

By now you should have made a rectangular piece. The next is making arm holes by reattaching yarn at the top TR ST: the one on the left hand side of the corner (the smaller corner of the rectangle you’ve made. For reference, see Diagram 1).

Row No. 5: Counting as the first DC, start CH 2. In the next 31 STS, DC, making a complete number of 32 STS i9n CH 7. YO and put the hook through the top of TR, just where the corner of the left hand is – the opposite side of the rectangle you’ve made then DC. DC 32 STS. In the CH 7, YO DC through the same ST as in CH 2. For CH 2, SL ST.

Row No. 6: DC through each ST in the CH 2, crocheting around including CH 7 then SL ST through the top of the CH 2. Bind off.

YARN 2

Row No. 7: Starting from CH 2, DC through each ST from the previous row and SL ST through the top of CH 2Ch2, dc in each ST from previous row SL ST into top of CH 2.

Rows from 8 to 10: Start from CH 1 with the next 33 ST then HDC in next 7, DC following 33, HDC in the next 7 then SL ST through the CH 1.

Bind off yarn 2 and start with yarn 3.

YARN 3

Rows from 11 to 14: From CH 1, ST for the next 33 ST then HDC 7 ST, DC 33 ST, HDC 7 and SL ST through CH 1.

Bind off yarn 3 and start with yarn 4.

Bottom:

Rows from 15 to 16: Starting from the CH 1 you need ST through each ST from the previous row. SL St through CH 1.

Row No. 17: Start with DC through CH 2 in the same ST CH1 2 DC through the same ST as CH 2. *Skip the following ST, 2 DC, CH 1, 2 DC in the next ST* Repeat in rounds. SL ST through the top of CH 2.

Rows from 18 to 42: Through the next CH 1 SL ST, following: CH2, DC, CH1 and 2 DC through the next CH 1 space* Repeat crocheting around. Through the top of CH 2 SL ST.

If the part around your chest is to tight, adjust the row No. 5 and if the dress is too short or long, shorten the bottom or add more rows in the same manner as above.

Chapter 5 – Patterns for Long Skirts

Who says that long skirts can’t be sexy? Whoever thought that, you can prove them wrong by making and wearing long skirts only few patterns away. Pick your favorite and get your hook and yarn!

Pattern #11: Caribbean Long Skirt

Waist: Make CH 92, counting 104; 116; 128; 140.

Row No. 1: Through the third CH counting from the hook, DC across every CH.

Row No. 2: Crocheting forth and back along the rows, CH 1, counting SC from there and on then turn SC through each DC and across, counting 90 to 102; 114; 126; 138 STS.

Row No. 3: CH 1 then turn with SC in every SC throughout, SL ST through the top of BEG and CH to attach yarn and join. Work in rounds. Take a piece of differently colored yarn strap so you could mark the BEG of the round.

Rounds from 4 to 5: Start CH 1 and SC in every SC in rounds, SL ST through the top of the BEG CH so you could join the pattern, counting from 90 to 102; 114; 126; 138 STS.

Round 6: Start CH 3 which will count as DC in that spot and across the pattern, in the next SC do DC, CH 1 with skipping following SC, by DC in the next SC, CH 1, skipping the following SC, around and SL ST through the top of BEG CH. Now turn the skirt so that the inside part of the piece is out and work in rounds.

Round 7: CH 3, through each CH 1 spot do DC and DC around then SL ST through the top of the BEG CH.

Round 8: DC 3, DC through the following 4 counting to 5; 6; 7; 7 DC 2 DC through the next DC, following 6 to 7; 8; 8; 9 DC then 2 DC through the next DC for 13 times then DC through the last 6 to 4; 2; 0; 12 then SL ST through the top of the BEG CH, counting 104 to 116; 128; 140; 152 STS.

Round 9: CH 4, counting as DC and CH 1 in this spot and across the pattern. Skip the following DC, DC through the next DC, CH 1 and skipping the following DC around, SL ST through the third CH of the BEG CH.

Rounds from 10 to 12: CH 4, following DC through the next DC CH 1, skipping the following CH-1 space around and SL ST through the third CH of the BEG CH.

Round 13: CH 3 with DC through the same spot, DC in every CH-1 space and use DC for crocheting around then SL ST through the top of the BEG CH, counting 105  to 117; 129; 141; 153 STS.

Rounds from 14 to 15: CH 3 with DC through every DC around then SL ST through the top of the BEG CH.

Round 16: CH 3 with DC through the next DC, CH 1, skipping the following DC, with DC through the next 2 DC, CH 1 and skip the following DC around then SL ST through the top of the BEG CH.

Rounds from 17 to 19: CH 3 with DC through the following DC, CH 1, skipping the next CH-1 spot around then SL ST through the top of the BEG CH.

Round 20: CH 3 with DC through every CH-1 with DC around then SL ST through the top of the BEG CH.

Rounds from 21 to 22: CH 3 with DC through every DC around then SL ST through the top of the BEG CH.

Round 23: CH 5, counting as DC and CH 2 with DC through the next DC, CH 2 then skipping 2 DC around then SL ST through the third CH of the BEG CH.

Rounds from 24 to 26: CH 5 with DC through the following DC, CH 2 around then SL ST through the third CH of the BEG CH.

Round 27: CH 3 with  2 DC through the CH-2 space with DC through the following DC, 2 DC through the next CH-2 space around then SL ST through the BEG of the CH.

Rounds from 28 to 29: CH 3 with DC through each DC around then SL ST through the top of the BEG CH. When 29th round is over, fasten off...

Row 30 (Shape Split): Counting 40 STS from the right to the left of the BEG CH you need to join the yarn through the following ST, CH 3 and DC through every DC around, counting 105 to 117; 129; 141; 153 STS.

Row 31: Crocheting forth and back across the rows, CH 3 then turn, DC through the next DC, following CH 1 then skip the next DC and DC through the next DC across going to the remaining ST, DC through the last ST.

Rows from 32 to 34: CH 3 then turn, DC through the following DC, across the following CH-1 space, with CH 1, DC through the next CH-1 space and across to the remaining 2 DC  and DC through the last 2 DC.

Row 33: CH 3 with turn, DC through the next DC following CH 1, DC through the next CH-1 spot, CH 1, skipping the next DC and DC through the last 2 DC.

Row 35: CH 3 then turn, DC through every DC through CH-1 space and across.

Row 36: CH 3, turn following Dc through the next 10 to 11; 13; 14; 15 STS and 2 DC through the next ST for 9 times. DC through every DC across, counting 114 to 126; 13150; 162 STS.

Row 37:  CH 3 then turn with DC through every DC throughout.

Row 38: CH 3, turn with DC through the following DC, DC through the next 2 DC, CH 1, skipping the next DC throughout to the remaining 4 STS then DC through the last 4 DC.

Rows 39: CH 3 turn, then DC through the next 2 DC, following CH 1, skipping the next CH-1 space and DC through the following DC across to the remaining 3 DC, CH 1 with skipping the next DC, DC through the last 2 DC.

Row 40: CH 3 then turn using DC through the next DC, following DC through the next CH-1 CH space, DC through the next DC, CH 1 then skip the following DC, going along the last CH-1 space. DC through the last DC.

Row 41: CH 3 then turn with DC through every DC and Ch-1 spot throughout.

Rows from 42 to 43: CH 3 start with turn then DC through every DC throughout.

Row 44: CH 3 then turn with Dc through the following DC, CH 2 then skip the next 2 DC throughout to towards the remaining DC, Dc through the last DC.

Row 45:  CH 3 then turn with DC through the following DC, 2 DC through the next CH-2 space and throughout towards the last 2 DC, Dc through the last 2 DC.

Rows from 46 to 48: CH 3 with turn then DC through every DC and throughout.

Row 48: CH 2, counting as HDC at this spot and across the pattern, turn following CH 5, skipping the next 3 DC then SL ST through the following 3 DC and SL ST through the next DC across towards the remaining 5 STS, CH 5 then skip the following 3 DC, do HDC through the last 2 DC.

Row 49: CH 2, turn following HDC through the next HDC, 5 HDC through the CH-5 space and across towards the remaining ST, HDC  through the last ST then turn crocheting across the split row edges, CH 2, SC 41 STS, spacing it evenly across the split side. Turn to crochet on the opposite split side as well, SC 41 STS spacing evenly across the row edges.

Once you are done with 49th row, fasten off to make a finish.

Finish: CH 80 for the waist, facing it on the right side you should join the yarn from the BEG of the 1st row edge, SL ST across the edges from row 1 to row 3 then turn to crochet on the opposite side, SL ST across the edges towards the last row 1 ST, CH 80. Finish by fastening off and weaving in ends.

Diagram for Caribbean Long Skirt

Pattern #12: 2 in 1 Skirt and Poncho

This piece is designed to be worn as a skirt also looking great when worn as a poncho.

12 FSC equals 121 cm, yoke pattern in shell 2 shells  equals 91 cm,  4 rows equals  76 cm. Shell pattern in body has 2 shell repeats, CH-4 equals 121 cm. 2 shell repeats, CH-5 equals 137 cm. Before completing separate points, pineapple lace has one repeat equaling 198 cm at 22nd round.

FSC; Foundation Single Crochet: You will start FSC with a slip knot from CH 2, drawing through a loop in the second chain, counting from the hook. YO to draw through the loop (CH) then YO to draw through 2 loops (SC) 2 loops * pull the hook through the CH through the last SC, drawing up through the loop then YO to draw through the loop CH. YO again to draw through 2 loops SC and repeat from * to add length.

SH equals 2 DC, CH 2 and 2 DC, crochet through the same ST or space.

SOS equals SH through CH- 2 space of the following shell.

Round 1: Starting from the opposite side you will start with CH 1, SC through the same SC to join by following: SC through the next SC, CH 5, skipping the next 2 SC then SC through the next SC, counting: 19 to 21; 23; 25; 27; 29; 31 times. SC through the next SC then skip the next 2 SC, following CH 3 and HDC through the first SC joining and forming the last space. Turn by following: 20 to 22; 24; 26; 28; 30; 32 spaces.

Round 2: Starting from the right side you will start by CH 3 with DC through the first space, following SH through the next space, counting, 19 to 21; 23; 25; 27; 29; 31 times, 2 DC through the same space at BEG, following CH 1, SC through the top of CH-3 to join, forming the remaining space and creating the last shell. Last turn, counting: 20 to 22; 24; 26; 28; 30; 32 shells.

Round 3: Start CH 1 2 SC through the first space, following: CH 5, 2 SC through the next CH-2 space, counting 19 to 21; 23; 25; 27; 29; 31 times, CH 3 then HDC through the first SC to join forming the last space then turn.

Rounds from 4 to 7: You will be repeating rounds from 2 to 3, crocheting twice more. For the skirt that space you are working on matches with the hip (shoulder if worn as poncho).

Round 8: CH 3 then DC through the first space, BEG in rounds, following CH 1, SH through the next CH-space, counting 19 to 21; 23; 25; 27; 29; 31 times. CH 1 with 2 DC through the same space as BEG, following CH 1, SC through the top of CH-3 to join forming the last space. Complete the remaining shell and turn.

Round 9: You will BEG the round with following CH 2, SOS, counting 19 to 21; 23; 25; 27; 29; 31 times. CH 2 with 2 DC through the same space as in the BEG, CH 1, SC through the top of CH-3 then turn and finish round.

Round 10: You will begin round with CH 3, SOS counting 19 to 21; 23; 25; 27; 29; 31 times, CH 3 and finish the round.

Round 11: You will begin the round with CH 4, SOS counting 19 to 21; 23; 25; 27; 29; 31 times, CH 4 and finish the round. If you want to add more length to the skirt, you will add more rounds repeating or omit to shorten. You will be repeating 11th round for hips and 14th round for mid thigh before you start making Pineapple lace. You will finish by wrapping up the round 14.

Rounds from 12 to 13: You will repeat 11th round for two times or until you get the length you like.

Round 14: You will begin this round with CH 5, SOS counting 19 to 21; 23; 25; 27; 29; 31 times. CH 5 then finish the round.

Rounds from 15 to 16: You will repeat the 14th round for two times or until you complete the length you want.

Pineapple Lace

Round 17: You will begin this round with * CH, DC through the next CH-5 space then CH 3, SOS, CH 5**, SOS. You will repeat from * going around and **. Now finish the round, counting 10 to 11; 12; 13; 14; 15; 16 repeating.

Round 18: You will BEG this round * CH 4, SOS, skipping the nextCH-3 space, CH 3, 2 DC through the next DC, CH 3 **, SOS. You will repeat from * going around, finish at **. Finish the round.

Round 19: BEG round, * CH 3, skipping the following CH-3 space, following 2 DC through the next DC for two times, CH 3, SOS, CH 3 **. Repeat from *, going around *. Finish at **. Finish round.

Round 20: You will begin this round with * CH 3, SOS, CH 3, skipping the next CH-3 space, following 2 DC through the next DC for four times, CH 3 **, SOS. You will repeat from * going around. Finish at ** and finish the round.

Round 21: You will begin with * CH 3, skipping the next CH-3 space, DC through the next DC, following CH 1, DC through the next DC for seven times, CFH 3 with SOS, CH 1 **, SOS. You will repeat from * and around. Finish at ** and finish the round.

Round 22: Begin with * CH 1 following with SOS, CH 3, SC through the next space CH-1 for seven times. Next CH 3 **, SOS. You will repeat from * and going around. Finish at ** and end the round. For pineapple lace points, you will finish each point by separating points.

Point 1:

Row 1: Start from the opposite side starting with CH 3, following with DC, CH 2, 2 DC all through the first space, then CH 3, skipping the following CH-3 space, SC through the next CH-3 space, CH 3 for six times, SOS then turn.

Row 2: CH 2, SOS and CH 3 then skip the following CH-3 space, following SC through the next CH-s space, CH 3 for five times, SOS then turn.

Row 3: Start CH 2 with SOS and CH 3, skipping the following CH-3 space with SC through the next CH-3 space and CH 3 for four times, SOS and turn.

Row 4: Start CH 2 with SOS and CH 3, skipping the next CH-3 space, following SC through the next CH-3 space and CH 3 for three times. Do SOS then turn.

Row 5: CH 2 then SOS, CH 3 with skipping the next CH-3, following SC through the next CH-3 space and CH 3. Do it for two times then SOS and turn.

Row 6: CH 2 then SOS, CH 3 then skip through the following CH-3 space, SC through the next CH-3, CH 3 then SOS and turn again.

Row 7: CH 2 with SOS then CH 1, SOS again and turn.

Row 8: CH 2, 2 DC through the CH-2 space through the following shell, 2 DC through the CH-2 space of the following shell then CH 2 and SL ST through the next DC of the shell. Fasten off to finish.

You will have 9 to 10; 11; 12; 13; 14; 15 pineapple points left. Place the piece on the wrong side of the skirt so you could join the yarn through CH-2 space of the following shell. Repeat the point one rows from 1 to 8.

Waist:

Round 1:  Place the piece so it is facing you from the right side, joining the yarn through any CH of the waist foundation. CH 1 with SC through the same CH, SC through every CH going around then join through the first SC and turn.

Rounds from 2 to 5: CH 1 with SC through every SC going around then join and turn to finish, fastening off and weaving through the edges.

You will need to secure the thread going around stem of any SC you choose from the 1st round of the waist, facing the wrong side. Hold elastic across the insides of the waist and move from left to the right side to make a herringbone ST, following:

Sipping SC of the 5th round, above the BEG SC of the 1st round, put the needle around the post of the following SC from the 5th round, making a back ST. Then skip the following SC from the 1st round to back ST around the next SC post. Crochet across the elastic every time without catching it with threads, but sliding it.

Finish off with making back ST through the same SC from the BEG. Secure the thread with next cutting it. Sew the elastic in to secure it.

Chapter 6 – Reminder: Crocheting Dictionary

Even though you are getting pretty experienced in crocheting, it wouldn’t hurt to have a reminder when it comes to crocheting. Take a look at our dictionary in case you are having problems with understanding abbreviations used in our patterns.

A

APPROX – approximately

B

BEG - beginning

C

CH – chain

CC – contrasted colors

CONT - continue

CH-number – chain space with the number of the chain
cm - centimeters

D

DC – double crochet

DEC - decreasing

F

FSC – foundation single crochet

H

HDC – half double crochet

I

INC - increasing

L

LP – loop

LPS - loops

M
mm – millimeter
m - meter

P

PAT - pattern

PATS – patterns

R

REP – repeat

Rep from * - repeating directions to the end of the row

Rev SC – reversed single crochet

RS – right side

Reverse shaping – this term is used in instructions for a piece where you need to do the same stitch, but in reverse (differentiating front side from the back side)

rnd – round
rnds - rounds

S

SC – single crochet

SK – skipping

SL – slipping

SL ST – slip stitch

SS – single stitch

ST – stitch

STS - stitches

SP – space

SPS – spaces

T

T-ch – turning chain
tog – together
tr – treble crochet

W

Work even – working without decreases and increases

WS – wrong sides

Y
yd – yards

YO – yarn over

You can use this dictionary for all patterns you come across.

Conclusion

If you have passed through our little guide, your wardrobe is now 12 beautiful clothing items richer. You can use our little abbreviation dictionary to help you with other patterns you are working on and continue with making beautiful things out of yarn.

By practicing how to make all those dresses and skirts we provided patterns for, you are also working on upgrading your skills to another level of difficulty and soon you will probably be able to work on many projects including those that are a bit harder than the ones we’ve listed.

Enjoy crocheting and enjoy wearing all those trendy beautiful skirts and dresses. You will surely be thrilled!

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