Expert Knitting
Author: Wilters, Susan
Date: 2014-10-28T04:00:00+00:00
Publisher: Modern Day Skills Publishing

Table of Contents

Chapter One – Expert Techniques.

Chapter Two – Lace.

Chapter Three – Entrelac Knitting.

Chapter Four – Expert Garment Tips.

Patterns.

Attributions and Resources.

Expert Knitting

Susan Wilters

Modern Day Skills Publishing (2014)

Tags: Expert Knitting

Expert Knittingttt

Expert Knitting

By Susan Wilters

Contents

Chapter One – Expert Techniques

Chapter Two – Lace

Chapter Three – Entrelac Knitting

Chapter Four – Expert Garment Tips

Patterns

Attributions and Resources

Thank you for purchasing the third book in my knitting series. In this book we’ll learn how to bring your knitting up to the expert level with expert stitches and techniques. We’ll also take the mystery out of lace and Entrelac knitting. In each chapter I will share some free knitting patterns with you to help you practice your new skills.

This volume is geared toward advanced and intermediate knitters that want to learn expert techniques and stitches to add to their skills. I hope you enjoy this book, and thanks again for purchasing it!

Chapter One – Expert Techniques

In this chapter we’ll cover some expert techniques to help give your projects a professional look. We’ll learn how to use the provisional cast to create a crisp edge and knit a scarf from the middle out. I will share some expert stitches that really work up nicely, and we’ll discuss how to get the correct size when making garments and some tricks to help your garments fit better. Ready? I am so let’s begin!

Provisional Cast On

The provisional cast on is a handy technique to use when you’re not sure if you have enough yarn, if you want to add a crochet edge to your work, and if you need to work a scarf of other project from the inside out. You may want to use this technique on complicated graph patterns or Fair Isle scarves in order to work the graph easily. The first version we’ll learn about uses a chain of crochet stitches as the base for the cast on stitches.

First you will need a crochet hook and some yarn that is the same weight or heavier than the yarn you plan to knit with. Crochet a chain about six inches longer than you need for the cast on stitches. (If you need to learn to crochet a chain you can watch this video tutorial from New Stitch a Day.) Crochet the chain rather loosely because you’ll be slipping your needle into the back of the chain to work the cast on stitches. Leave the last chain loose and place a stitch marker in it to secure it and cut your yarn.

When you look at the crochet chain you will see that like knitting crochet stitches also form a V. Turn the chain on its side and you will see an extra loop on the back of the stitches. This is the loop we’ll be working with, not the top loops which form the V. The back loops look like little bumps across the back of the chain.

Start at the second back loop and insert your needle into this loop. Wrap the yarn around your needle just like you are going to knit a stitch and pull the yarn through the loop of the crochet chain. Move to the next loop to your left and repeat. Repeat this process until you have worked all of the way across the crochet chain. You can now knit the cast on stitches as normal.

You can also use this technique to graft one piece of knitting to another. This is a good technique to use if you are making an infinity scarf or working in the round. Use the same method, but instead of using a crochet chain you would pick up the stitches from the loops on the edge of the fabric you need to graft onto your live work. If you have more stitches on your needles than you can find on the edge of the piece you are grafting, use the outside edge loops of the grafting piece as stitches. Of course your stitch count must be only a few stitches off for this method to work.

If you are using this method to start from the middle of a scarf, simply pull the loose end of yarn which is attached to the open loop to remove the crochet chain. It will come right out and you will have all of your stitches on your needle and be ready to continue to knit. Provisional cast on is handy expert technique to master, and once you get the hang of it you can do it in flat knitting or when knitting in the round.

Open Provisional Cast On Method

If you don’t want to use a crochet chain to create a provisional cast on you can use either a needle twice as large the needle size you pattern calls for or two needles held together. You will also need a long piece of sturdy yarn larger than the weight of yarn you will use for your knitted piece. Cut a long piece of the spare yarn (you will be pulling the cast on stitches from your ball of working yarn). Hold the needles and the spare yarn in your right hand.

Make a slip knot with the working yarn andslip it onto the needle or needles. Pull the spare yarn in front of the working yarn and pull it down. Now pull the working yarn up and over the needles. Pull the spare yarn in front of the working yarn again and then pull the working yarn up and over the needle capturing the spare yarn creating a cast on stitch on the needle.

Once you have the correctnumber of stitchescast onto your needles it should look like this:

You can now transfer the stitches onto your working needle leaving the spare yarn in place.

Once you’re ready to work on the provisional cast on stitches simply slip your needle into the stitches and remove the spare yarn.

Brioche Stitch

The Brioche stitch is not only very attractive but works up to be a warm and lofty. It can be worked with one color of yarn, or use two for a very stunning effect. The fabric does not roll and lays flat so it is perfect for scarves. When you use two colors you get a pattern in which the ribs and background contrast each other.

When working with the Brioche stitch remember the pattern is worked in sets of two rows. Begin by casting on an odd number of stitches. The first and last stitches of each row are knitted to create a selvage edge.

On row one slip the first stitch knitwise; knit 2 together, pull the yarn forward and slip the next stitch. Repeat until you reach the last three stitches and then knit 2 together and knit one.

For row two begin by slipping the first stitch knitwise, pull the yarn forward and slip one stitch, knit 2 together, and repeat until you get to the last two stitches. For the last two stitches pull your yarn forward, slip one stitch, and knit the last stitch. Repeat rows one and two until you reach the desired length.

The second row is worked by slipping the first stitch knit wise, pull your yarn forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 2 together and repeat this pattern to the last 2 stitches. Pull your yarn forward, slip 1 stitch, and knit the last stitch. Repeat these two rows until your work is the desired length.

In a pattern the stitch will look like this:

Row 1: Sl 1 knit wise, * k2tog, yf, sl 1* to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1

Row 2: Sl 1 knit wise, *yf, sl 1, k2tog* to last 2 stitches, yf, sl 1, k1

When you use two colors to knit the Brioche stitch one color is worked across a row and then you pick up the second color and knit back across the row. Alternate colors each timeyou reach the end of the row. Do not cut your yarn at the end of the rows, simply let it rest and then pick it up again and twist it around the new color to secure it before you form the first stitch. Two color Brioche stitch is worked in a four row pattern. On rows two and three you yarn over purlwise and use purl stitches instead of knit. One side of the fabric will have each color highlighted in dual-colored Brioche.

Two color Brioche looks like this written out as a pattern:

Setup Row: using CC, Sl 1 knit wise, *K 1, yf, sl 1* to last stitch two stitches, K 2. Do not turn work.

Row 1: using MC - Sl 1 purlwise, *sl 1 wyif, yb and yf, p2tog* to last 2 stitches, sl 1 wyif, yb and yf, p1

Row 2: Turn work, using CC, sl 1 purlwise, *p2tog, sl 1 wyif, yb and yf* to last 3 stitches, p2tog, P 1

Row 3: Do not turn work, using MC - sl 1 knit wise, *yf, sl 1, k2tog* to last 2 stitches, yf, sl 1, K 1

Row 4: Turn work, using CC, sl 1 knit wise, *k2tog, yf, sl 1* to last three stitches, k2tog, k1. Do not turn work.

I recommend you use a lifeline for this stitch since it would be impossible to tell where you were in the pattern if you make a mistake.

Color Works and Cables

Cables add interest and texture to knitting. No doubt by now you’re pretty proficient at creating cables, but have you ever considered using color work when creating cables? If not it is a very pretty way to add some color contrast and create intricate patterns in your knitting. The way you work color into cables is very similar to Intarsia knitting.

In this image you can see that as you work a cable graph the yellow and green cables overlap each other alternatively. Knit the cables in the exact same way as you usually do, but one leg of the cable is knitted with yellow yarn, and the other one is knitted with green yarn.

For example if the green leg is to be dominate you would pull the green cable stitches to the front of your work as you knit the yellow leg, and then knit the green stitches off of the cable needle. When the yellow leg is to be in front, pull the yellow stitches to the front and knit them off the cable needle at the appropriate time.

Pick up and drop the colors as you need them. If you have more than one cable then you will need separate bobbins or balls of yarn for each color change in the cables. You do not carry the yarn across the back of your work, but use the Intarsia method of changing colors.

Mosaic Knitting

Mosaic knitting is very similar to Fair Isle in the way it looks and is knitted. But instead of using knit or purl stitches to form color changes, you use the slip stitch. As you work across each row only the active yarn is knitted, the other yarn is slip stitched. It sounds a bit confusing, but it is really very easy once you understand how the patterns work.

Mosaic knitting uses charts, but you read the charts in a different manner than for Fair Isle or Intarsia. No matter if you are flat knitting or knitting in the round you read the chart from right to left. Traditionally you would only use two colors in Mosaic knitting and slip no more than three stitches at once. All stitches are knitted, and all slip stitches are done purlwise.

In this chart from Veridgris Knits for their four-heart pattern, the pattern is a 12 stitch/21 row repeat. As you work across the chart the colored squares are slip stitched and the white squares are knitted.

Start at row one and work across from right to left, turn your work and then return to the right side and work across from right to left for each row. For example in Row 1 slip the first stitch purlwise with color 1. Knit 1 stitch with color 2, and then slip 3 stiches purlwise with color 1. Knit 1 with color 2, slip 3 stitches purlwise with color 2, knit 1 with color 2, slip purlwise 1 stitch with color 1 and finish off the row with 1 knit stitch in color 2.

Turn your work and then return to the right side of the pattern and reverse the colors. The next row starts with knit 2 with color 1, slip stitch purlwise with color 2, knit 1 with color 1, slip stitch purlwise with color 2, knit and slip stitch 2 more times, and end up with knit 3 with color 1.

Each time you turn your work you will reverse the colors and work right to left. This is a very pretty example of socks made with Mosaic knitting and cables.

Double Knitting

Double knitting creates a mirror image on each side of the fabric. You can create some really fun and exciting designs with double knitting. The fabric is very plush and thick making it perfect for winter garments and home accessories. When double knitting you use two strands of yarn held together as you knit, but you pull the colors forward and back to form patterns on both sides of the fabric.

When you are using the double knitting technique you always need to cast on an even number of stitches. Alternate the colors as you cast on until you reach the number of stitches desired. Most knitters like to use the long tail cast on for double knitting, but you can use which ever method you like the best. Start and end with the same color. The first two and last two cast on stitches will count as one stitch.

Double knitting uses charts to form patterns. You can flat knit or knit in the round with this technique. Charts are read right to left, and then left to right for flat knitting, and right to left for each round when knitting in the round.

After you cast on an even number of stitches slip the first two stitches knitwise (this actually counts as one stitch). With both strands of yarn in the back of the work knit the next stitch with color 1. Pull both yarns forward and purl the next stitch with color 2. Pull both yarns to the back and knit with color 1 again, and pull both yarns to the front and purl with color 2. Work your way across the row and when you get to the last two stitches pull both strands to the front and purl them as one stitch. Turn your work and repeat across the next row. When you finish two rows you will see how one side is made of knit stitches in color 1, and one side is made of knit stitches in color 2. The purl stitches are sandwiched between the two colors and are not seen. The first stitch is always a slip stitch using both colors, and the last stitch is a purl stitch using both colors.

When you come to the point where you need to work that pattern follow the chart and pull both yarns to the back or the front and knit using the color called for in the chart. I’ve included a link to a great video by Very Pink Knits that shows you exactly how to do this technique.

Knitting Lace Shawls from the Outside Edge In

I really like the look of lace knitting. Shawls made with lace stitches look so delicate and beautiful once they are completed and blocked. Have you ever considered knitting a shawl from the outside edge in?

In her video, How to Knit Short Row Scalloped Edging for Lace Cape, Kristin Omdahl shows us how to begin a shawl with a scalloped edge from the outer edge in. The edge is knitted in short rows and when you complete one scallop you knit cast on more stitches and knit the next scallop until you have knitted the entire edge of the shawl. This is a really handy technique you could use with almost any edging stitch.

In her example she cast on 19 stitches and started with a few stitches gradually picking up more cast on stitches until she had 19 in her row. For example the first row is knit across the 19 stitches. The second row is knit 10 stitches and turn. Then the third row is only knit 2 and turn. The fourth row is knit 3, and each row you add a stitch until you reach 19. At this point you then knit cast on 19 more stitches and repeated the process until she had the number of scallops you need for her shawl’s edge. You can find the link to her videoat the end of this book. I recommend you watch it and learn this really handy technique.

Chapter Two – Lace

Lace knitting creates beautiful fabrics perfect for shawls, garments, and home décor items. Lace is knitted with very light weight yarn such as fingerling yarn. In this chapter we’ll go over some pretty lace stitches to familiarize you with the beauty and fun of creating knitted lace projects.

In lace patterns you will see the abbreviations ssk and p2sso. Ssk stands for slip slip knit: slip the first and second stitches knitwise and then insert the left needle tip in front of both stitches and knit together. P2sso is the pass two slip stitch over: insert the needle into the front of the second and first stitches on the left needle knitwise but do not knit them. Slip them both over once and knit the next stitch on the left hand needle. Insert the point of the left needle into both slipped stitches and draw them over the knit stitch and off of the right hand needle.

Rick Rack Rib Stitch

This stitch is knitted in a two row pattern. First cast on an even number of stitches.

Row one starts on the right side: knit 1, *yarn over, slip stitch, knit 1, psso (pass slip stitch over), repeat from *, end with knit one.

Row two: purl 1, *yarn over, slip with yarn in front, purl one, psso, repeat from * and end with a purl one.

Star Rib Mesh Stitch

The star rib mesh stitch is a four row repeat. First cast on multiples of four plus one.  Row one is the wrong side. Purl across the row.

Row two: knit one, * yarn over, slip two stitches knitwise knit one p2sso, yarn over, knit one * repeat from *

Row three: purl

Row four: ssk, yarn over, knit one * yarn over slip two knitwise knit one p2sso, yarn over knit one * repeat from * end with a yarn over and k2tog

Simple Lace Stitch

This is a two row pattern and you start by casting on multiples of four plus two.

Row one: knit one, * k2tog, yarn over twice, k2togh * repeat to last stitch and knit one.

Row two: purl one, * purl two, knit one, purl one * repeat to last stitch and purl one.

Double Herringbone Stitch

This stitch is done in a 12 row repeat and begins with casting on a panel of 21 stitches.

Row one is the wrong side and purl across the row.

Row two: knit two (yarn over, ssk) three times. Yarn over, slip one k2tog psso, (yarn over k2tog) four times, yarn over, knit two.

Row three: purl across the row

Row four: knit three (yarn over, ssk) three times. Yarn over, slip one k2tog psso, (yarn over k2tog) three times, yarn over, knit three.

Row five: purl across the row

Row six: knit three (yarn over, ssk) twice times. Yarn over, slip one k2tog psso, (yarn over k2tog) twice times, yarn over, knit two.

Row seven: purl across the row

Row eight: knit two, k2togh, yarn over, knit one, (yarn over, ssk) twice, yarn over slip one k2tog psso, (yarn over, k2tog) twice, yarn over, knit one, yarn over, ssk, knit two.

Row nine: purl across the row

Row ten: knit one, k2tog, yarn over, knit three, yarn over, ssk, yarn over slip one k2tog psso, (yarn over, k2tog) twice, yarn over, knit three, yarn over ssk, knit one.

Row eleven: purl across the row

Row twelve: k2tog, yarn over, knit five, yarn over, ssk, yarn over, slip one k2tog psso, yarn over, k2tog, yarn over, knit five, yarn over, ssk.

Fern Lace Stitch

The fern lace stitch starts with casting on sets of nine stitches plus four. It is worked in a four row pattern and the first row is the wrong side. Purl the first and third row.

Row two: knit three, * yarn over, knit two, slip one stitch, ppso, k2tog, knit two, yarn over, knit one * repeat to last stitch and knit one.

Row four: knit two *yarn over, knit two, slip one stitch, knit one, psso, k2tog, knit two, yarn over, knit one * repeat to last two stitches, knit two.

Shetland Eyelet Panel Stitch

The Shetland eyelet panel stitch is worked in an eight row repeat. Begin by casting on 9 stitch groups. All even rows are purled across the row (Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8).

Row one: On the right side, knit two, k2tog, yarn over, knit one, yarn over slip one stitch, knit one, psso, knit two.

Row three: knit one, k2tog, yarn over, knit three, yarn over, slip one stitch, psso, knit one

Row five: knit one, yarn over, slip one stitch, knit one, psso, yarn over, slip two stitches knitwise, knit one, p2soo, yarn over, k2tog, yarn over, knit one.

Row seven: knit 3, yarn over, slip two stitches knitwise, knit one, p2sso, yarn over, knit three
k3, yo, sl 2 knitwise, k1, p2sso, yo, k3.

Diagonal Lace Stitch

This unique stitch is an 8 row repeat. It uses the p2tog tbl stitch which is purl two together through the back loop. Being by casting on sets of 8 plus 4, and row one is the right side.

Row one: knit two, * yarn over, slip one, knit one, psso, knit one, k2tog, yarn over,knit three * repeatto last twostitches and knit two.

Row two: purl seven * p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl six * repeat to last five stitches: p2tog, yarn over, purl three.

Row three: knit four, *yarn over, slip one stitch, knit one, psso, knit one, k2tog, yarn over, knit three *repeat to end of row.

Row four: purl five, * p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl six * repeat to last seven stitches: p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl five.

Row five: knit one, * k2tog, yarn over, knit three, yarn over, slip one, knit one, psso, knit one * repeat to last three stitches: k2tog, yarn over, knit one.

Row six: purl three, * p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl six * repeat to last stitch and purl one.

Row seven: knit three, * k2tog, yarn over, knit three, yarn over, slip one stitch, knit one, psso, knit one * repeat to last stitch: knit one.

Row eight: purl one, * p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl six * repeat to last three stitches: p2tog tbl, yarn over, purl one.

Cat’s Eye Stitch

The cat’s eye lace stitch is a three row repeat and begins by casting on multiples of 4.

Row one: Row one is the right side: purl two, * yarn over, p2tog * repeat to last two stitches and purl two.

Row two:knit two, * knit one, (knit one, purl one, knit one) in the yarn over of previous row,repeat from * to the lasttwo stitches and knit two.

Row three: Knit across the row

Lacy Openwork Stitch

The lacy openwork stitch is knitted with a two row repeat and begins with casting on multiples of four plus one.

Row one: knit one, *yarn over, p3tog, yarn over, knit one * repeat to end of row.

Row two: p2tog, yarn over, *p3tog, yarn over, knit one, yarn over * repeat to last two stitches and p2tog.

Bird’s Eye Stitch

The bird’s eye stitch is knitted in a four row repeat and begins with casting on multiples of four.

Row one is the wrong side: * k2tog, yarn over twice, k2tog * repeat to end of row

Row two: * knit one (knit one, purl one) into two yarn overprevious row, knit one * repeatto end of row.

Row three: knit two, * k2tog, yarn over twice, k2tog * repeat to last two stitches and knit two.

Row four: knit two, (knit one, purl one) into two yarn over of previous row, knit one * repeat to last two stitches and knit two.

Tips for Lace Knitting

Always use a lifeline when knitting lace. Dental floss makes a very good lifeline for lace knitting since it is very thin and flexible. Think ribbon also makes a good lifeline for lace knitting. If you knit a lace edging onto a project insert the lifeline at the point where you pick up the live stitches. This will help you greatly if you need to undo any part of the edging.

Use stitch markers to keep track of all pattern repeats. This tip will really help you keep track of where you are in the pattern. This way if you get distracted in the middle of a pattern repeat you can pick up exactly where you should in the repeat.

If you are using a chart make a copy of it and use highlighters to help you keep track of where you are in the pattern. Highlight each row or round as you complete it. You can also highlight pattern repeats to help you work the chart.

Use Post-It notes to keep track of what row you are one in a chart. You can easily move them up as you work.

Practice a new lace pattern with medium weight yarn. Instead of trying to learn a new pattern with fingerling lace yarn and small needles, practice with a heavier weight yarn and larger needles so that the yarn is easier to handle and you can see the pattern better.

Bamboo needles are excellent choices for lace knitting especially if you are using a wool yarn which can be a bit sticky. Bamboo lets the yarn slide easily off your needles. Also no matter what type of needles you use, make sure the ends are good and pointy.

Chapter Three – Entrelac Knitting

Entrelac knitting looks very complicated, but it really isn’t. The pattern works up to create a basket weave effect and is knitted in short rows. Instead of going across the entire row you work each section of the pattern separately. The triangles diamonds form tiers which interlock and make it look like you have woven the entire piece of knitting together. This is one technique that will really wow your friends and family.

To understand how to get started let’s take a look at this image. The first tier consists of triangles. Each one is knitted separately. The second tier starts with a triangle, then three diamonds, and ends with another triangle. The fourth tier of this pattern consists of four diamonds. This pattern repeats to create the beautiful Entrelac technique of making Afghans, hats, sweaters, scarves, and home décor projects. You can change colors with each tier or diamond, or an easier way to get color changes is to use a long strand variegated yarn. This is a very versatile technique to learn, and once you understand the basics it is fun and easy.

To illustrate and learn the Entrelac technique we will be using Lion Brand Yarn’s pattern Baby Entrelac Blanket.

You will need one ball each for colors A, B, C, D, an E. The pattern uses Vanna’s Choice yarn in Pink, Mustard, Dusty Green, Beige, and Silver Blue but you can use any medium weight yarn in the colors of your choice. You will also need size 10 (6mm) needles, size H/5 (5mm) crochet hook, stitch markers, and a tapestry needle.

Gauge for the pattern is 14 stitches and 18 rows equal four inches. Blanket will be about 28 by 32 inches when completed.

Row 1: On the right side knit 2 and turn.

On each even row you purl back across and turn. So for Row 2 purl 2 and turn.

Row 3: knit 3, turn

Row 5: knit 3 ssk, turn

Row 7: knit 5 turn

Row 9: knit 5, ssk, turn

Row 11: knit 7, turn

Row 13: knit 9 and place a marker for the end of this triangle and do not turn your work. Repeat until you have six triangles.

The last triangleis worked as follows:

Repeat Rows 1 through 10.

Row 11: knit 4, k2tog, turn

Row 12 and 14: purl across and turn

Row 13: knit 3, k2tog, turn

Row 15: knit 2, k2tog, turn

Row 16: On the wrong side sk2p, do not turn and leave one stitch on the right needle and change colors.

Now your work should look similar to this and the first tier will look a bit wonky and strange.

Now we’re ready to start on tier two. It starts with a triangle, then five diamonds, and ends up with a triangle.

First Triangle:

One the wrong side pick up and purl 8 stitches evenly along the edge of the first triangle. You will have a total of nine stitches on your needle, turn your work.

On all odd number rows (1-15) knit to the end and turn.

On all even number rows (2-14) purl 8, p2togh, and turn.

Row 16: purl 8,p3tog, place marker for end of block, and do not turn.

Next Diamond:

Still on the wrong side pickup and purl 9 stitches evenly along the edge of the next triangle and turn your work.

Now work Rows 1-5 of the first block. Repeat until five more times.

Last Triangle:

On all odd rows (1-15) knit to the end and turn.

On all even rows (2-14) purl to the last 2 stitches and then p2tog, and turn.

Row 16: p2tog, and turn. Change colors.

Row 17 on the right side knit 1 and do not turn. Leave 1 stitch on the right needle.

You are now ready to begin the third tier, and you begin with the first diamond. Still on the right side pick up and knit 8 stitches along the first block. You will have 9 stitches on the right needle, turn your work.

On all odd rows (1-15) purl to the end and turn.

On all even rows (2-14) knit 8, ssk, and turn.

Row 16: knit 8, sk2p, and place marker for the end of the block. Do not turn.

Repeat this five more times.

Last Triangle:

Still on the right side pickup and knit 9stitches along the edge of thelast block and turn your work.

On all odd rows (1-15) purl to the end and turn.

On all even rows (2-14) knit to the last 2 stitches, ssk, and turn.

Row 16: ssk, and turn, change color.

Row 17: On the wrong side purl 1 and do not turn, leaving 1 stitch on the right needle.

Tiers 4 through 19 are worked same as the previous tier. Change color with each tier and always leave 1 stitch on your right needle. The color sequence for the pattern is *A, B, C, E, D; rep from *. You will be working on the sides of the previous tier’s diamonds for each new diamond.

Last Tier:

The last tier is another group of triangles to finish off the blanket and make it rectangular.

Last Row of Triangles

With color D on the wrong side pick up 8 stitches and purl along the edge of the block for a total of 9 stitches and turn.

On the odd rows (1-15) knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog and turn

On the even rows (2-14) purl to the last 2 stitches, k2tog and turn

Row 16: p3tog and do not turn leaving 1 stitch on the needle.

Repeat this six more times.

Last Triangle:

On the wrong side pick up and purl 8 stitches along the edge of the last block and turn

On the odd rows (1-7) knit to the last 2 stitches, k2tog, and turn

On the even rows (2-8) purl to the last 2 stitches, p2tog, and turn.

Fasten off.

Edging:

Attach color D anywhere on the blanket and with the crochet hook work a crab stitch (reverse single crochet) along the edge of the entire blanket. Work in your tails. To work the crab stitch form a slip knot and place it on the crochet hook. Insert the hook into an edge stitch, yarn over, and pull through the fabric and through the slip knot on the hook. Instead of working left to right, you will be working right to left. Insert the hook into the next stitch to the left, yarn over and pull through the fabric, yarn over and pull through the 2 loops on the hook. Repeat this until you reach the beginning crochet stitch, insert the hook through the beginning crochet stitch, yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook. Cut the yarn and pull the tail through the loop of the last stitch. Visit New Stitch a Day to learn this stitch.

Entrelac is fun to learn and even more fun one you master it.Here are some tips to help you get started.

The first tier is the hardest. This is because you want to knit across the row, but with Entrelac each triangle is knitted separately. The first tier will also want to bunch and pull. This is normal. If your work looks and feels strange, you’ve probably done it correctly.

Each tier is built upon the tier before it. Because you knit each diamond and triangle on its own you work from the sides of the previous row. Each time you need to knit a new diamond or triangle you pick up the stiches from the one below it. Actually you sort of work on a slant. It’s hard to spell out, but once you get into the pattern you’ll understand what I mean.

The first and last tiers of all Entrelac patterns consist of triangle. Subsequent tiers are made up of a right triangle, center diamonds, and a left triangle. This is followed by a tier of diamonds. This pattern repeats until you get to the last tier of your project.

You can make your projects as wide and as long as you like. All you have to do is vary the number of triangles and diamonds in each tier and work as many tiers as you need. For example a scarf may be 4 diamonds wide and several tiers while an Afghan or baby blanket will have more diamonds across and less rows.

Color work in Entrelac gives you the chance to be very creative. You can change colors at each row, at each triangle and diamond, or use a long strand variegated yarn. The choice is up to you. The ear warmer in the next image was knitted with a long strand color way yarn.

Chapter Four – Expert Garment Tips

By now you’ve probably tried your hand at making garments. Knitted sweaters are one of the most popular projects you can make, but sometimes you may find the fit leaves something to be desired. In this chapter we’ll go over how to measure to find the correct size, and a few tips to help get a better fit. We’ll also cover tips on how to assemble your garments so that you have professional results.

Getting the Correct Size

When you look at the size charts for patterns you may be confused which size is the correct one. For women one of the most important measurements is the bust, and for men it is the chest. How close to the body a sweater fits is known as ease. Another important measurement to consider is length. Not everyone is shaped the same. For example I have a very long waist while my daughter does not have one. So if I made a sweater according to my measurements it may be too long for her, and if I tried on one of her tops it may ride too high on me.

In the chart from the Craft Yarn Council you can see the differences in ease. A tailored garment fits closer to the body while a relaxed fit is looser. When you are choosing the size for a garment refer to this handy chart to get the correct fit.

Length is another important factor to consider when choosing the correct size. The chart also shows us the average measurementsfor children’s, women’s, and men’ssizing. Compare the length listed on the pattern to the actual measurement on the body to get the best fit.

Keep in mind if you add or subtract too much it will affect the overall outcome of a pattern. Try to choose the size closest to your measurements. If you are in between sizes opt for the larger size.

How to Measure

If you are measuring yourself enlist the help of a family member or friend. It is much easier for someone to measure you than to try to do it yourself, and you will get a more accurate set of numbers. You should wear a light shirt and pants so that your clothing does not add any bulk. If you are knitting an outer garment dress as you normally would so that the garment has enough ease to be comfortable.

These diagrams from the Craft Yarn Council show you where to measure on the body for the best fit.

1. For a man measure the chest across the largest part. For women the bust is measured across the largest part of the breasts, not under them. Under the breasts is the chest measurement and rarely used in women’s sizing.

2. Measure from the back base of the neck, across the shoulder, and down to the wrist with your elbow slightly bent for the center back neck-to-cuff measurement.

3. Place the end of the measuring tapeat the back of theneck at the prominent bone and measure to the natural waistfor the backwaist length.

4. The cross back measurement is taken from shoulder to shoulder.

5. Place the end of the measuring tape on the armpit and measure to the cuff for the sleeve length.

6. Measure the arm at the widest point above the elbow for the upper arm measurement.

7. Place the end of the measuring tape at the top of the shoulder and measure down to the armpit for the armhole depth.

8. The natural waist can usually be found just above the belly button.

9. Measure the hips at the widest point being careful not to let the measuring tape dip down in the back or the front.

Now take these measurements and compare them to the size chart on the pattern. Many patterns come with detailed schematics showing you the measurements for the various elements of the pattern. You can adjust the fit of the garment by adding or subtracting rows for the length and sleeve length. These are the easiest measurements to adjust.

Instead of trying to add or subtract stitches to make the bust or chest larger I would recommend simply going up or down a size. This will keep your pattern intact and give you the best fit. Remember that the designers have taken ease into consideration when developing patterns so compare the finished garment measurements to the body measurements to get a true idea of the fit.

Socks also come in different sizes for children, men, and women. Use the chart from the Craft Yarn Council to help you get the best fit for your knit socks. The diagram is for dress or crew style socks which come several inches up over the ankle, but below the calf.

1. Measure around the widest part of the footto getthe foot circumference

2. To determine the sock height measure just at the heel and up the leg to where you would like the sock to come to.

3. Place the tape measure or use a ruler and place it on the floor. Measure from the back of your heel to the longest toe for the total foot length.

The following charts are from The Craft Yarn Council. You can find the links in the back of this book, and they give you a link to a PDF with a complete guide to sizing and other valuable information.

Easing in Sleeves

If there is one aspect of assembling garments that even expert knitters sometimes find to be a challenge it is attaching sleeves. Sleeves sometimes have a tendency to bunch or go off center. There are a few tips you can use to help you get the perfect seam and fit for your sleeves.

You will need the sweater body and sleeves, a clip on stitch marker, three clips such as Clover Wonder Clips, tapestry needle, and yarn (when you knit the sleeves it is a good idea to leave a long tail so you can use it to sew the sleeve onto the body of the garment).

As you know when you sew on the sleeves you want the right sides to face each other. But first you have to find the middle of the sleeve. Simply fold the sleeve in half lengthwise and place a clip on stitch marker at the top center point.

Lay the sweat out with the right side facing up and the sleeve area flat. Place the sleeve onto the sweater and match the center point to the shoulder seam. Clip the center and both sides of the sleeve to the sweater body. Gently ease the sides of the sleeve to the proper position on the sweater body. Once you have the sleeve clipped onto the sweater hold the garment up to check the position of the sleeve.

Lay the garment back down flat and pin the sleeve into place. Start at the center shoulder seam and pin down one side, and then the other side working the sleeve into place gently as you pin. Thread the tapestry needle and insert it under the first stitch of the sleeve and the corresponding stitch on the garment. Before you pull the needle back through move it about ½ inch to the left and insert it through a stitch of the garment and the corresponding stitch of the sleeve. Pull the needle through the fabric.

Go back to the beginning of the first sewing stitch and make a small stitch to secure the yarn. Now about ½ inch from the end of the first stitch you made insert the needle into the sleeve and the garment and move about ½ inch and insert the needle into the garment and out of the sleeve. Pull the needle through. Insert the needle at the beginning of the last stitch and pull it through about ½ inch away from it. Continue to do this easing the sleeve into place.

You may have to gently pull either the sleeve or the garment body to get the sleeve to fit. This is normal and since you are working with a knit fabric the ease will not show once the sleeve is sewn on. Remember to always keep the center of the sleeve positioned on the center shoulder seam. This will ensure your sleeve is in the correct position.

Once you get the sleeve sewn on and you’re happy with its position you can then sew up the side of the sweater. Start at the cuff and work your way up the sleeve and down the side of the garment. (Sew the other sleeve on first to make it easier to get the sweater body to lie flat.) Stay on the edge of the knitted pieces using the stitches to anchor the sewing stitches.

You can use this technique on all of your seams. If you find one piece is longer or shorter than the other gently stretch the shorter piece to get the correct fit.

Patterns

All of the patterns I have included in this book that are not mine can be found for free on the internet. I have given credit to the original designers where I could, and the attributions for the images I use in this book can be found at the end of this book. Many thanks go out to the wonderful designers and teachers who have help add to the wonderful content in this book they have shared for free.

Diagonal Eyelet Baby Blanket

Pattern Link: http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/L10157.html

This very pretty baby blanket has panels of eyelet lace alternating with Garter stitch panels worked diagonally from corner to corner. You will need 5 balls of Merino Yarn in Buttermilk, 29 inch size 9 circular needles, and a tapestry needle.

Gauge is 17 stitches and 22 rows equal four inches.

First (Increase) Half

Cast on 2stitches.

Garter Panel

GarterIncrease Row (WS): K1, yarn over,k to end of the row.

Repeat Garter IncreaseRow to 23stitches.

Lace Panel A

Row 1(Right Side): K1, yarn over,knit to end - 24stitches at the end of this row.

Row 2: K1, yarn over, k1, purl to laststitch, k1 - 25 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 3: K1, yarn over, k1, *k2, yarn over, k2tog; Repeatfrom * across, k3 - 26 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 4: RepeatRow 2 - 27stitches at the end of this row.

Rows 5-12: RepeatRows 1-4 - 35stitches.

Row 13: RepeatRow 1 - 36stitches

Garter Panel

Repeat Garter Increase to 63 stitches.

Lace Panel A

Repeat Rows 1-13 of Lace Panel A - 76 stitches when Row 13 has been completed.

Garter Panel

Repeat Garter Increase to103 stitches.

Lace Panel A

Repeat Rows 1-13 of Lace Panel A - 116 stitches when Row 13 has been completed.

Garter Panel

Repeat Garter Increase to 143stitches.

Lace Panel B

Note: Row 6 of Lace Panel B begins the Second (Decrease) Half of Blanket.

Rows 1-5: RepeatRows 1-5 of Lace Panel A - 148stitchesat the end of Row 5.

Row 6: K1, yarn over,k3tog, p to laststitch, k1 - 147 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 7: K1, yarn over, k3tog, k1, *k2, yarn over, k2tog; Repeatfrom * to last 2stitches, k2 - 146 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 8: RepeatRow 6 - 145stitches at the end of this row.

Row 9: K1, yarn over, k3tog, k to end - 144 stitches at the end of this row.

Rows 10-13: RepeatRows 6-9 - 140stitches at the end of Row 13.

Garter Panel

Garter Dec Row (Wrong Side): K1, yarn over, k3tog, knit to end of row - 139 stitches at the end of this row.

RepeatGarter Dec Row until you have 113stitches.

Lace Panel C

Row 1(Right Side): K1, yarn over, k3tog, k to end - 112stitches at the end of this row.

Row 2: K1, yarn over, k3tog, p to last stitch, k1 - 111 stitches at the end of this row.

Row 3: K1, yarn over, k3tog, k1, *k2, yarn over, k2tog; Repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2 - 110 stitches.

Row 4: Repeat Row 2 - 109 stitches.

Rows 5-12: RepeatRows 1-4 twice more -101stitches at the end of Row 12.

Attributions and Resources

All images shared on Flickr are used under the Creative Commons License 2.0 unless otherwise specified.

All images for patterns can be found at the pattern link included in the text.

Images

Provisional Cast On Images
http://www.tricksyknitter.com/how-to-cast-on-making-a-provisional-cast-on/

Images from Tricksy Knitter Blog

Open Provisional Cast On Images
http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEfall05/FEATfall05TT.html

Images from Knitty.com

Brioche Stitch Close Up
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jigraknits/235947444

Image shared by Charles on Flickr

Intarsia Cable
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5T943GkwDk

Knit Picks Advanced Cabling Techniques: Intarsia Cables still at 0.14

Mosaic Socks
https://www.flickr.com/photos/starathena/4398924780

Image shared by Star Athena on Flickr

Double Knitted Headband
https://www.flickr.com/photos/23276140@N08/3147765898

Image shared by Marni on Flickr+

Ease and Length Charts
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/sizing.html

Image from Craft Yarn Council

How to Measure Images
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/sizing.html

Image from Craft Yarn Council

Head Measurement and Size Chart
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/headsize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Baby Size Chart
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/babysize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Child/Youth Size Chart
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/childsize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Woman Size Charts
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/womansize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Man Size Chart
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/mansize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Foot Size Charts
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/footsize.html

Craft Yarn Council

Back Stitch
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/27447/how-to-master-the-backstitch/page/all

Image from Threads Magazine

Entrelac 3rd Tier Example
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kellysue/471472740

Image shared by Kelly Sue DeConnick on Flickr

Entrelac Half Triangles
http://verypink.com/2011/12/22/learn-to-knit-entrelac/

Very Pink Learn to Knit an Entrelac Scarf at 1:28

Entrelac Ear Warmer
https://www.flickr.com/photos/starathena/2088691825

Image shared by Star Athena on Flickr

Scalloped Edging
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MoOe_VALU4

How to Knit Short Row Scalloped Edging for Lace Cape by Kristin Omdahl at 6:50

Rick Rack Rib Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-knit-the-rick-rib-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Star Rib Mesh Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-star-rib-mesh-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Simple Lace Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-knit-the-simple-lace-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Double Herringbone Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-double-herringbone-mesh-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Fern Lace Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-fern-lace-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Shetland Eyelet Panel
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-shetland-eyelet-panel-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Diagonal Lace Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-diagonal-lace-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Cat’s Eye Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-cats-eye-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Lacy Openwork Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-lacy-openwork-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Bird’s Eye Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/knit-birds-eye-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Videos

Crochet 101:How to Crochet the Chain Stitch for Beginners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmrrnlMR2i0

New Stitch a Day

Knitting Help – Double Knitting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZg4DckTMxc

Very Pink Knits

Learn to Knit an Entrelac Scarf
http://verypink.com/2011/12/22/learn-to-knit-entrelac/

Very Pink Knits

How to Crochet the Reverse Single Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsA5B9U8qoU

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit Short Row Scalloped Edging for Lace Cape
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MoOe_VALU4

Kristin Omdahl

How to Knit theRick Rack Rib Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Vd38Mzq15E

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Star Rib Mesh Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLVuGLCOyT8

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit Simple Lace Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-knit-the-simple-lace-stitch/

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit Double Herringbone Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tOp7_BED6Q

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Fern Lace Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OP91DovgDmE

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Shetland Eyelet Panel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deW4rfiuD3A

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Diagonal Lace Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAbgopZPs6U

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Cat’s Eye Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kteuHzzCbdg

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Lacy Openwork Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TOt585rnD0M

New Stitch a Day

How to Knit the Bird’s Eye Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bvFOrEMl8w

New Stitch a Day

Links and Resources

The following sites have a wealth of information for all levels of knitters. Some of them offer free newsletters and links to social media. I hope they help you in developing your skills as an expert knitter.

The Knitting Channel
https://www.theknittingchannel.com/

This site has videos, newsletters, kits you can purchase, and lots of information and an online store. Jill Moray’s videos are easy to understand and she has a personal touch that makes them enjoyable.

Freckles & Purls
http://frecklesandpurls.com/

A great site full of ideas, patterns, and fellowship I found through the Very Pink site. She has patterns you can purchase, but she also posts free patterns from time to time. The Entrelac scarf pattern in this book was designed by Allison LoCicero, the owner of this site.

Very Pink

Website: http://verypink.com/

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/verypinkknits

Staci has a complete website chock full of information and patterns. Her YouTube channel is a goldmine of information and I used many of her videos to illustrate some of the stitches and techniques in this book. She’s fun to watch and is very easy to follow in her videos. She uploads new videos each Wednesday.

Sapphires-n-Purls The Weekly Stitch

Blog: http://www.sapphiresnpurls.com/

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/iknitwithcatfur

Each week a new stitch is loaded up onto this YouTube channel. This was another channel that helped me understand and illustrate some of the stitches and techniques covered in this book. She uploads new videos each Friday.

New Stitch a Day

Website: http://newstitchaday.com

Video Stitchionary:http://newstitchaday.com/video-stitchionary/

If you need to see how to make a stitch this is the place to visit. This is a collection of instructional videos on basic stitches. Follow the links to learn more advances stitches and skills.  Be sure to visit the website and blog for more information, patterns, and classes. They charge for the classes, but the majority if information on here is free.

The Weekly Stitch

Website: http://www.theweeklystitch.com/

YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1he-q7dTSmN5p0UyVmrMfQ

Such a wealth of information on this blog! Every week she shares a new stitch complete with written instructions, a picture of a sample of the stitches andd a video embedded right into the blog post for you to learn how to do the featured stitch. Her YouTube channel is iknitwithcatfur and I found a lot of stitches there to share in this book.

Online Knitting Terms and Stitch Glossary

Use this handy reference for knitting terms and stitches from Knitting Daily.

http://www.knittingdaily.com/Glossary/

Craft Yarn Council

This site has a ton of information about getting started in knitting. You can find diagrams for stitches as well as how to knit, purl, cast on and off, decrease, increase, and just about everything else to do with knitting.

http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/getting_started.php3

Knit Picks

Here you will find materials to purchase as well as tutorials for all levels of knitting. The instructions in their tutorials are clear and the illustrations very easy to understand. I used many of the images in this eBook from this site. They also have a wide array of videos so that you can increase your skills.

http://www.knitpicks.com/

Lion Brand Yarn

Filled with instructions and lots of information about knitting and yarn this site is very helpful and a great place to order yarn and find free patterns.

http://learntoknit.lionbrand.com/

Red Heart

Not only can you find quality yarn at a great price on this site, but you can also find hundreds of free patterns to download. Be sure to sign up for their free newsletter to find out the latest trends in yarn and knitting.

http://redheart.com

All Free Knitting

This site is the mother lode of free patterns. You can set up an account and save your favorite patterns, add notes, and be sure to sign up for their free weekly newsletter.

http://www.allfreeknitting.com/

Knitting Help.com

Here you’ll find a great site full of instructional videos, online store, free patterns, and much more.

http://www.knittinghelp.com/

Interweave
http://www.interweave.com/

This is another great site full of patterns, information, an online store, and forums to connect with other knitting enthusiasts.