Crocheting: Expert Crochet. Broomstick Lace, Tunisian Crochet , and Freeform Crochet
Author: Wilters, Susan
Date: 2015-01-02T05:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Expert Crochet

Table of Contents

Chapter One – Crochet Charts

Chapter Two – Crochet Graphs Color Work Techniques

Chapter Three – Broomstick Lace Technique

Chapter Four – Tunisian Crochet Technique

Chapter Five – Freeform Crochet

Patterns

Attributions

Crocheting: Expert Crochet. Broomstick Lace, Tunisian Crochet , and Freeform Crochet

Susan Wilters

(2015)

Tags: Expert Crochet

Expert Crochetttt

Expert Crochet

By Susan Wilters

Contents

Chapter One – Crochet Charts

Chapter Two – Crochet Graphs Color Work Techniques

Chapter Three – Broomstick Lace Technique

Chapter Four – Tunisian Crochet Technique

Chapter Five – Freeform Crochet

Patterns

Attributions

Thank you for purchasing the third and final book in my crochet series. This book is geared toward the advanced or intermediate crocheter who wants to take their skills to the expert level. In this book we will learn all about graphs and charts, how to crochet the Intarsia method, and explore more expert techniques. I love to crochet and I’ve been doing it since I was a young girl. I’m blessed to come from a long line of creative women and I have passed this down to my daughter in hopes she will continue the tradition. One of the things I really like about crochet is the opportunity it gives me to express my creativity and create beautiful and useful items for myself, family, and friends. If you love crochet as much as I do and want to learn expert techniques then you’ve made the right choice with this book. So are you ready to get started? I am so let’s get to it!

Chapter One – Crochet Charts

Many expert level patterns use charts instead of writing out the entire pattern. This is because the written pattern would be many pages long and quite confusing. Learning how to read a chart is very beneficial in advancing your crochet skills. A chart may be a bit intimidating at first and when you see all of the symbols grouped together you may want to just give up before you even try. But take heart, like all things if you take it bit by bit and slowly you can learn how to read even the most complex crochet chart. This table which can be found on the Craft Yarn Council covers most of the symbols used in crochet charts. You should always check the key for the chart you’re going to work first to understand the symbols used by the designer. But this table includes the standard symbol used in most crochet charts.

Now let’s take a look at a simple chart design. This is a heart design from DMC USA website. This pattern uses four basic stitches; chain stitch, half double crochet, single crochet, and slip stitch. The pattern is read from left to right for the odd rows, and right to left for the even rows. Refer to the chart above and you can see how the stitches for the pattern.

Start at the black triangle and chain three for the foundation row. The first row consists of one half double crochet into each of the foundation chain’s chain stitches. The second row is two half double crochet into each of the half double crochet of the previous row. For the third row you start with two half double crochet into the first stitch of the previous row, one half double crochet between the first and second stitch and one half double crochet into each stitch to the last two stitches. Then you work a half double crochet between the next to the last and last stitch, and two half double crochet into the last stitch.

Continue to work the chart until you complete the heart. At this point slip stitch three times to get to the correct place. Chain seven and work a single crochet into the chain two of the correct row. Chain seven and single crochet into the stitches denoted on the chart all of the way around the heart and join with a slip stitch into the first chain stitch. The last row is worked with five half double crochet into the third chain all of the way around the heart and join in the first chain stitch and break the yarn. The white triangle is the point at which you would break your yarn.

In this example of a Granny Square from Crafty Minx you can see that you start in the middle of the chart with a chain four joined by a slip stitch. Next chain three and work two double crochet, chain one, and three double crochet all of the way around this round. The second round is joined in a corner with a slip stitch and chain three. Two double crochet, chain two, and three double crochet are worked I n the corner. You then chain one between each three double crochet grouping. The second color is ended and the third color is joined in a corner and the pattern is continued until you have completed the third round.

In this example from The Best Knitter’s Guide you can see how the designer has drawn the chart to closely resemble the final square. Here is the square worked up from this chart.

When working charts just take it one row or stitch group at a time. Notice where the stitches are worked in relationship to the previous row and always count the stitches on the chart and in your work. Charts can be worked in rows or in the round. Some charts have arrows showing you which way to work, but most don’t. Likewise some charts have color changes, but most charts let you decide the color scheme.

Charts are a great way to work patterns that would be many pages if written out, and they can be worked no matter what language you read and write in. So if you find a pretty chart from a site that is not in your native language you’ll still be able to work up the pattern since you know how to read a chart.

You can find lots of charts for free online. Pinterest is a good resource for charts and free pattern links. You may even want to try your hand at creating your work chart once you get the hang of them.

Chapter Two – Crochet Graphs Color Work Techniques

Graphs are used in Intarsia crochet and other color work patterns. Graphs are very similar to charts, but unlike charts which may use many different stitches most graph patterns are worked in one stitch, usually single crochet or half double crochet. This is because the graph pattern needs to be consistent for the picture to show up correctly.

Intarsia Color Works and Graphs

A graph is read from left to right and then right to left. In other words the odd rows are read from right to left, and even rows are read from left to right. In this example from Crochet Kitten you can see that you first need a foundation chain of 15 plus one for the first single crochet. Starting at the right lower left corner the first row is 15 single crochet in white. Row 2 starts on the left side and chain one and 6 white single crochet, then 1 red single crochet, and then 7 white single crochet to complete the row. Row 3 is read from right to left and consists of chain 1 and 5 white single crochet, 3 red single crochet, and then 6 white single crochet. Continue up the graph in this manner until you have completed the pattern.

Here is an example of heart washcloth which is very similar to the heart graph.

When working an Intarsia graph pattern wind up yarn on bobbins to make it easier to handle. Since you will be changing colors often in a row you don’t want to have to be wrestling large balls or skeins of yarn while you work.  As you work across a row and it is time to change colors work the last stitch of the old color until you have two loops on the hook, drop the old color and pick up the new one and pull it through the two loops catching the old color under the new one. This helps lock the colors in place. Don’t cut the yarn, just leave the old color resting there until you work back across the row and need it again.

You may find it is easier to handle the yarn by stringing the bobbins onto a dowel suspended on two chairs or some other type of support. This keeps the yarn from tangling. You can also use shoeboxes to feed the yarn into your project, or use a coffee can with several holes poked into the lid for the yarn to come out of.

Intarsia crochet creates beautiful pictures and designs. You can even use counted cross stitch charts for patterns. Simply decide which colors you will use and follow the cross stitch chart as you crochet. Here is an example of a stunning blanket called Farm Friends shared on Flickr by Amber. There is a lot of work in this blanket and the result is amazing.

Tapestry Crochet

Very closely related to Intarsia is Tapestry crochet. Unlike Intarsia colors are not dropped, but carried along the row as you work. Tapestry crochet usually uses two colors and creates geometric or simple picture patterns. The carried yarn can be seen faintly under the dominate color which creates a very pretty effect similar to the intricate tapestries crafted by medieval artists. Chart patterns are worked in the same manner as Intarsia, you start at the bottom right corner and work the odd rows from right to left and the even rows from left to right, but instead of dropping colors you capture the old color under the stitches of the new color. When you need to change colors simply pick up the new color and begin to work with it capturing the old color under the new stitches.

In this example from Carol Ventura’s Tapestry tutorial you can see the correct way to do a color change. Work the last stitch of the old color until you have two loops on your hook and then bring the new color up and draw it through the stitch. Carry the old color under the stitches until you need to change colors again. Tapestry crochet creates a double sided fabric which is reversible.

This is a very pretty example of Tapestry bag shared on Flickr by Lucie. You can see how the colors are carried under the rows. I think this adds to the beauty of the color work.

Fair Isle Crochet

You’ve probably heard of Fair isle knitting, but Fair Isle crochet is fairly new to the scene. Instead of dropping colors such as in Intarsia or carrying the colors inside of the stitches of rows in Tapestry, Fair Isle crochet carries the colors behind the work. These are known as floats. You can only use two colors per row with Fair Isle, but the color changes are crisp and well defined. Work the main color until the chart calls for a color change. On the last stitch of the main color work until you have two loops on the hook. Pick up the contrasting color and pull it through the two loops on your hook. Work the appropriate number of stitches in the contrasting color and leave two loops of the contrasting color on your hook and pull the main color through to change colors. The unused color will be carried on the back of your work. Don’t pull your tension too tight so that the fabric has some give. You want the floats to be able to stretch along with the fabric. When you pull the new color through the last two loops of the old color pull the new color up and over the hook to keep the yarn from tangling in the back of your work.

In this example from the video Fair Isle Crochet Tutorial #1: How to Change Color by Crochet Ever After, you can see the difference between Tapestry crochet and Fair Isle crochet. The top few rows are Tapestry and the bottom rows are Fair Isle. Note how the colors are floated on the wrong side of the work.

One of the benefits of Fair Isle is that you don’t see the unused color which is carried inside the stitches of the dominate color like you do in Tapestry crochet. This gives you a nice clean color change and an even fabric. In the above example the solid black row which separates the examples is thinner than the rest of the Tapestry rows.

This is an example of Fair Isle crochet jumper on the right side shared on Flickr by beanaboos.

This is the same jumper on the wrong side. Notice how the colors are carried across the rows on the wrong side.

Fair Isle, Intarsia, and Tapestry crochet techniques are all fun and exciting ways to work with color and create beautiful projects. Intarsia uses many different colors while Fair isle and Tapestry use only two colors per row. They all use graphs for patterns and the same graphs can be used for all three color work techniques.

Chapter Three – Broomstick Lace Technique

Broomstick lace is a very pretty technique which creates lacey projects. This type of crochet dates back to the early Nineteenth Century and was once known as the Jiffy Stitch. You may see this terminology is some older and vintage pattern books. The name is derived by early crafters using a broomstick to wrap yarn around and form the stitches. You can use a broomstick, a large dowel, or a very large knitting needle. The size of the stick, the size of the hook, and the weight of the yarn will determine the look and gauge of a broomstick lace project. You can use broomstick lace to create many projects which include hats, shawls, purses, home décor items, baby items, and garments.

To begin you start with a chain in sets of five. On the last chain stitch you place it on the knitting needle (or whatever tubular object you are using) and gently tighten the stitch up. Next draw a loop up around the knitting needle for each chain stitch. Place your hook under the first five loops and work a single crochet for each loop. As you work a single crochet the loops will come off the knitting needle. You can also slide off the groups of five loops as you work. Try both ways to see which one you are most comfortable with.

Continue working sets of five loops until you come to the end of the row. To begin the next row draw a loop over the knitting needle for each chain stitch. Be sure to count your stitches to be sure you have the correct number and they are in sets of five. Work a single crochet for each stitch working in sets of five again until you reach the end of the row and all of the loops have been worked off the knitting needle. Repeat this process until your work is the desired length. The images in this chapter were taken from the How to Crochet Broomstick Lace by Margaret on the Lion Brand Website.

To create the next row simply draw the yarn over the knitting needle again and repeat the process. Work until your project is the size you desire.

This is an example of the beautiful fabric created with broomstick lace.

Chapter Four – Tunisian Crochet Technique

Tunisian crochet is also called the afghan stitch. It creates a dense fabric that can be used in many projects. Instead of a regular crochet hook you use a long Tunisian hook that will hold the stitches as you work. In Tunisian crochet you don’t work each stitch as you go along, instead you work stitches and hold them on your hook across a row and then work them off the hook when you go back across the row. I know that sounds a bit strange, but once you get the basic technique down you’ll find Tunisian crochet is very fun to do and works up very quickly.

Tunisian Hook

The hooks you use for Tunisian crochet look just like a normal crochet hook and come in different sizes, but they are much longer. This enables you to work across long rows and hold the stitches before you work back across the row.

As you can see they look very similar to knitting needles. One end has the traditional crochet hook, but the other end normally has a stop on it so that the stitches don’t fall of the hook as you work. Tunisian hooks also come with metal or plastic cables which let you hold many stitches. These look similar to circular knitting needles.

Tunisian Basics

Unlike normal crochet you don’t turn your work. You work forward and return rows. The first step is to crochet a foundation chain. This is simply the chain you start almost all crochet projects with. The next row is called the preparation row. If you look at your foundation chain you will see the V’s formed by the chains. Now turn the chain to the side and you’ll see the “spine” of the chain. These are theloops on the back of the chain that we normally don’t crochet into. These spine stitches are what you will use to work the preparation row.

Insert the hook into the first spine stitch, yarn over, pull the yarn through and leave this stitch on your hook. Repeat this all of the way across the row until you have all of the spine stitches worked. For example of you have 12 stitches you will have 13 loops on your hook once you reach the end of the row. This includes the first loop which was on your hook and 12 stitches worked.

This is what your hook should look like once you go across the preparation row and have worked all of the spine stitches of the foundation chain. Now it is time to work the return row.

Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through two loops on the hook. Continue to do this until you have all of the stitches worked off of the hook.

This is what your work will look like one you have worked the first return row after the preparation row. If you look at the crochet you will see vertical lines of stitches across the row. From now on these vertical stitches are when you’ll use to work the forward rows.

The highlighted vertical stitches are the working stitches on forward rows. Insert the hook under the first vertical stitch from the hook (not the one directly next to the hook), yarn over and pull the yarn through leaving the loop on the hook. Repeat this until you reach the end of the row. Use the very last vertical stitch as the last stitch in the forward row.

Repeat the return row by yarning over and pulling through the first loop on the hook. Yarn over and pull through two loops until you reach the end of the row. When you get to the end of the row you’ll repeat the forward rows and return rows until you reach the desired length of your project. Once you’ve reached the desired length it is time to bind off your stitches.

This is a very simple process, you simply yarn over and pull through the loop on a return row and when you get to the end of the row simply pull the yarn through the last stitch and break the yarn.

The front of your work will look like this image and the back will look knitted. The right side of your work will always face you; you don’t turn your work with Tunisian crochet. If you want to change colors simply change colors like you would in any crochet project by leaving the last two loops on the hook last stitch of the return row, and then pull the new color through the loops and start continue.

Double Crochet in Tunisian Crochet

You can also double crochet in Tunisian crochet. Start with a foundation chain and a preparation row. On the first forward row chain two and skip the first vertical stitch. Yarn over and insert the hook into the second vertical stitch, yarn over and pull through two loops, yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook and leave the last loop on the hook. Once you’ve worked across the row you’re ready to crochet the return row. On the return row yarn over and pull through one loop, yarn over and pull through two loops. Keep yarning over and pull through two loops until you reach the end of the return row and then start the next forward row.

There are many stunning effects you can create with Tunisian crochet. The technique lends itself quite well to scarves, dishcloths, bags, garments, rugs, pillows, and almost any type of crochet project. You can even crochet in the round with this technique by joining the foundation chain and then working in the spine stitches just like if you were crocheting a flat piece.

One of the things that is really great about Tunisian crochet is the nice crisp edges you get. Since you only use one loop on the first stitch of the return row a natural straight edge is formed. If you want an edging all you have to do is join the edging yarn in one of the corners and crochet around your project. I find Tunisian crochet a very fun alternative to traditional crochet. It works up quickly and is a nice break from traditional stitches.

Chapter Five – Freeform Crochet

Freeform crochet (scrumming) is limited only by your imagination. It is the technique of using shapes, textures, stitches, and embellishments to create beautiful works of art. It is a chance to let your creativity run wild with abandon. Swirls, circles, puffs, shells, beads, buttons, bows, anything really that sparks your creativity can be used in freeform crochet. Here is a lovely example of a nature inspired piece of freeform crochet.

The artist used many different types of yarn to create a tree, flowers, grass, rocks, and even clouds and a wind effect in the sky. Mixed media is often used in freeform crochet with embellishments worked into the design.

You can also use freeform techniques in garments. Jackets, scarves, hats, and other garments can be made unique and one of a kind with freeform techniques. Join the different shapes by sewing them together or use various crochet techniques to join the squares and add even more texture and interest to your piece of art.

I will be honest with you, one of the things I find most difficult about freeform crochet is letting go. What I mean is I’m so used to things being symmetrical and even that I find the fluidity and freedom offered by this technique hard for me to master. Freeform is just that, free. Usually you don’t have a pattern to follow, but just an inspiration or idea you want to see come to life. So let your creativity flow and don’t try to be perfect or have things just so – it’s freeform and you’re free do to what you want. There’s no right or wrong way, even a mistake can be beautiful.

Freeform Stitches

Although you can use any stitches you want in freeform crochet I’ve collected some fun stitches for you to try on your freeform project. These form spirals, add lots of texture, and are just plain fun to do. So grab your hook and let’s let our imaginations fun wild!

Bullion Stitch

The bullion stitch is used to add a lot of texture and depth to your freeform projects. It is created by wrapping the yarn several times around the hook and then pulling the yarn through. This creates a nice puffy stitch you can use in spirals, to form flowers, or anywhere you want some extra texture.

The bullion stitch is usually worked on a base of double crochet. You may find it is easier to pull the yarn through all the loops of you hold a thin knitting needle on top of your hook while you wrap the yarn. This gives you some room to pull the yarn through and prevents the yarn from splitting or getting hung up on the hook. First wrap the yarn around your hook 7 to 10 times. Insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pullthe yarn through the stitch and all of the loops on your hook.

Spirals

When you look at freeform crochet you will see spirals make up a great deal of the creativity and designs. Spirals aren’t hard to crochet; it just takes a bit of practice. To crochet a spiral you simply crochet in the round, but you don’t slip stitch to form a new round. You just keep crocheting around and around. (It is a good idea to use a stitch marker to mark your beginning stitch just to keep track of where it is.) The fun comes when you combine more than one color to create pretty designs and effects.

To begin chain two and join and start to crochet around and around without joining the rounds. You can use single, double, half double, treble, or any stitch you want in your spirals. Create ridges by crocheting in the back loops only, and change colors randomly to create pretty color works. You can use different types and weights of yarn. Eyelash yarn and faux fur are fun additions to spirals to create interesting effects in your freeform work.

Two Color Spirals

Two color spirals start with a magic circle. For this example you chain one, and work one single, one half double, and one double crochet into the circle with color one. Make the loop a bit bigger and attach color two and chain one, work one single, one half double, and one double crochet into the loop. Gently close the loop. Your work should now look like the following image.

With color two work into color one and work two double crochets into the single crochet stitch. Make sure that color one doesn’t get tangled up. Hold it to the back of your work; you’ll be picking it up again soon. Work two double crochet into the next three stitches.

Now pick up color one and crochet two double crochet into the first single crochet stitch of color two. Crochet two double crochet into each stitch of color two. When you reach the end of color two pick up color one and crochet two double crochet into each stitch of color one. Do this and alternate the colors until your spiral is the size you want.

You can add more colors at the beginning and work in the same manner to have as many colors as you want in your spiral.

Nautilus Shell

The nautilus shell is very similar to a spiral, but as you work around the stitches get higher. You also use more than two colors, usually three or four. Begin with a magic circle and chain one. Crochet two double crochet in the first color. Switch to a new color and crochet two half double crochet. Switch to color three and work eight double crochet.

Pull the magic circle snug and continue to double crochet until you have a total of 16 double crochet. Switch to another color and begin by working 12 treble crochet. Switch colors one more time and crochet 16 double treble crochet and stop if your shell is as large as you want. If not continue to work double treble crochet in different colors until the shell is as large as you want.

Surface Crochet

Surface crochet is a bit like embroidering. You can add details with surface crochet, texture, and add pretty yarns and finishes. Insert the hook from front to back and pull up the yarn you are going to use to surface crochet. You should have one loop on your hook. Insert the hook into the next stitch, grab the yarn and pull it up through the fabric. You willnow have two loops on your hook. Slip stitch and insert your hook back through the fabric, grab the yarn, pull through and slip stitch. You will see that a pretty chain is forming on the top of your crochet fabric. You can go any direction you want with surface crochet. Add edgings, details, patterns, make flowers, faces, or any other detail you’d like with this technique.

Freeform crochet is a lot of fun and lets your creativity run wild. Give it a try and you may be hooked on this beautiful art form.

Patterns

The patterns I have included in this book are all found for free online. The image attributions can be found at the pattern links at the end of this book.

Timeless Tunisian

Pattern Link: http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/timeless-tunisian

This very pretty afghan designed from Red Heart will help you practice basic Tunisian stitches plus learn how to incorporate other stitches into this technique. The afghan works up to be 54 by 75 inches.

You will need the following amounts of Red Heart Super Saver yarn:

Color A – 5 skeins of Dark Sage

Color B – 4 skeins of Country Blue

Color C – 4 skeins of Light Sage

Color D – 4 skeins of Windsor Blue

You will also need a US size G/6 (4.5mm) Tunisian crochet hook, a G/6 (4.5mm) crochet hook, and a tapestry needle.

Gauge is 17 Tss and 14 rows equal two inches.

Special Abbreviations:

Tss (Tunisian simple stitch

Long dc = Yarn over, insert hook under specified stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop to height of row in work, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice.

Beginning joint stitch = chain 2, skip next stitch, yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop to height of chain-2, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.

Joint stitch = Yarn over, insert hook in same stitch where last loop was drawn up, yarn over and draw up a loop to height of chain-2, skip next stitch, yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop to height of chain-2, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook.

Cluster (cl) = [yarn over, insert hook in specified stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop to height of chain-2] twice, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.

Beginning cluster (beginning cl) = Chain 2, yarn over, insert hook in same space as joining, yarn over and draw up a loop to height of chain-2, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.

CENTER PANEL

With A and afghan hook, chain 40.

Row 1: Insert hook in second chain from hook, yarn over and draw up a loop; *insert hook in next chain, yarn over and draw up a loop; repeat from* across – 40 loops on hook. Work Tss return pass – 40 Tss.

Rows 2-5: Work Tss forward pass and return pass.

Row 6: Work Tss forward pass – 40 loops on hook. For Tss return pass: yarn over and draw through one loop on hook, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 19 times; chain 3 to be formed into picot on forward pass of next row; [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 20 times – 39 Tss and 1 Tss with picot.

Row 7: Work Tss forward pass, holding chain-3 loop toward front to form picot – 40 loops on hook. For Tss return pass: yarn over and draw through one loop on hook, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 18 times; chain 3 for picot, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice; chain 3 for picot, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 19 times – 38 Tss and 2 Tss with picots.

Follow each row on chart from A to D. Working Tss forward pass as before and starting with row 8 of chart for Tss return pass, follow chart until Tss return pass of row 23 is completed, then repeat Rows 6-23 twelve times more,

Rows 6-14 once and Row 2 five times more.

Last Row: Skip first vertical bar, slip stitchin next vertical bar and in each vertical bar across. Fasten off.

NARROW PANELS (make 2 panels each with B, C and D)

With appropriate color yarn and afghan hook, chain 20.

Row 1: Insert hook in second chain from hook, yarn over and draw up a loop; *insert hook in next chain, yarn over and draw up a loop;repeat from * across – 20 loops on hook. Work Tss return pass – 20 Tss.

Rows 2-5: Work Tss forward pass and return pass.

Row 6: Work Tss forward pass – 20 loops on hook. For Tss return pass: yarn over and draw through one loop on hook, [yarn over and draw through 2 loop on hook] 9 times; chain 3 to be formed into picot on forward pass of next row; [yarn over and draw through 2 loop on hook] 10 times – 19 Tss and 1 Tss with picot.

Row 7: Work Tss forward pass, holding chain-3 loop toward front to form picot – 20 loop on hook. For Tss return pass: yarn over and draw through one loop on hook, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 8 times; chain 3 for picot, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice; chain 3 for picot, [yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 9 times – 18 Tss and 2 Tss with picots.

Follow each row on chart from B to C. Working Tss forward pass as before and starting with row 8 of chart for Tss return pass, follow chart until Tss return pass of row 23 is completed, then repeat rows 6-23 twelve times more, Rows 6-14 once and row 2 five times more.

Last Row: Skip first vertical bar, slip stitch in next vertical bar and in each vertical bar across. Fasten off.

PANEL BORDER

Row 1: With crochet hook and right side facing, join D withslip stitch in lower-right-hand corner of any panel; working across long edge, chain 1, single crochet in corner, single crochet in end stitch of next row; *long dc under 4th afghan stitch bar below next end stitch; skip end stitch behind long dc, single crochet in end stitch of next 3 rows; repeat from * across, ending with single crochet in end stitch of last 2 rows – 253 stitches. Fasten off. Do not turn.

Row 2:With right side facing, join C withslip stitch in first single crochet, chain 1, single crochet in back loop of same single crochet, single crochet in back loop of next 2 stitches; *long dc under 3rd afghan stitch bar below next stitch, skip stitch behind long dc, single crochet in back loop of next 3 stitches; repeat from * across, ending with single crochet in back loop of last 5 stitches. Fasten off.

Do not turn.

Row 3:With right side facing, join B withslip stitch in first single crochet, chain 1, single crochet in back loop of same single crochet, single crochet in back loop of next 3 stitches; *long dc under 2nd afghan stitch bar below next stitch, skip stitch behind long dc, single crochet in back loop of next 3 stitches; repeat from * across, ending with single crochet in back loop of last 4 stitches. Fasten off.

Do not turn.

Row 4:With right side facing, join A withslip stitch in first single crochet, chain 1, single crochet in back loop of same single crochet, single crochet in back loop of next 4 stitches; *long dc under first afghan stitch bar below next stitch, skip stitch behind long dc, single crochet in back loop of next 3 stitches; repeat from * across. Fasten off.

Work Rows 1-4 of Panel Border across other long edge of same panel. Work Panel Border on both long edges of each remaining panel.

JOINING

With lower edge of each panel at same end and right sides facing, join panels along long edges in following order: D, C, B, A, B, C, D. To join panels:Place first two panels side by side. Join D withslip stitch in lower-right-hand corner of first panel. Working loosely throughout, slip stitch in back loop of same stitch as joining; *slip stitch in back loop of corresponding stitch on second panel, slip stitch in back loop of next stitch on first panel; repeat from * across. Fasten off.

EDGING

Round 1: With crochet hook and right side facing, join D with slip stitch in upper-right-hand corner; working in stitches of Panel Border and in end stitches of rows along narrow edge; work beginning joint stitch, chain 1; *work joint stitch, chain 1; repeat from * across to next corner; work cl in corner, chain 1; repeat from * around, working joint stitches in back loop of stitches along Panel Border. Join with slip stitch in top of beginning joint stitch.

Fasten off.

Round 2: Join C with slip stitch in last chain-1 space made; work beginning cl; chain 1; *work joint stitch in same space where last loop was drawn up and in next chain-1 space; chain 1; repeat from * across to next corner, working end of last joint stitch in chain-1 space before next cl; work cl in same space where last loop was drawn up, chain 1, joint stitch in same space where last loop was drawn up and in next chain-1 space for corner, chain 1**; cl in same space where last loop was drawn up, chain 1; repeat from * around, ending final repeat at **. Join with slip stitch in top of beginning cl.

Fasten off.

Round 3:With B, work same as Round 2.

Round 4:With A, work same as Round 2.

Weave in all ends.

Enticing Baby Blanket

You can work this pretty blanket up in a variety of colors to match baby’s nursery. It is worked in the Entrelac technique and will be about 27 to 37 inches when completed. You can make it larger by adding more rounds of squares before you work the edging triangles.

Pattern Link: http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/80437AD.html?noImages=

You will need the following quantities of Vanna’s Choice Baby Yarn:

Color A – 2 balls of Little Boy Blue

Color B – 2 balls of Sweet Pea

Color C – 1 ball of Duckie

Color D – 1 ball of Berrylicious

You will also need a US size I/9 crochet hook, clip on stitch markers, and a tapestry needle.

Gauge is one square equals 1 ½ inches. The first row is worked with eight squares andthe following rows are workedaround it.

Row One Squares (make 8)

With A, chain 6.

Row 1 (RS): Working in back "bumps" of chain only, single crochet in 2nd chain from hook, (chain 1, skip next chain, single crochet in next chain) twice - 3 single crochet and 2 chain-1 spaces.

Rows 2-5:Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice.

Fasten off.

Row Two Squares (make and join 7 squares)

Note: Squares are now joined to the previous row of squares as you work, as shown in diagram. Work proceeds down the side of one Square and joins to the stitches of the last row of the next Square.

First Square

With RS facing, draw up a loop of B in end of last row of one Row One Square. Position another Row One Square with RS facing and ready to work in thestitches of the last row.

Row 1:Working in ends of rows alongside of current Row One Square,chain 1, single crochet in same space asjoin, (chain 1, skipnext row, single crochet in end of next row) twice;slip stitch in first single crochet of next Row One Square.

Row 2: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice.

Row 3: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice; working in stitches of next Row One Square,skip next single crochet, slip stitch in next single crochet.

Rows 4 and 5:Rep Rows 2 and 3.

Next Square

Position another Row One Square with RS facing and ready to work in thestitchesof the last row (this is now the new 'next' Square). Note:The 'current' Square is always the Square into which the laststitch was worked.

Row 1: Working in ends of rows along side of current Row One Square, chain 1, single crochet in end of first row, (chain 1, skip next row, single crochet in end of next row) twice; slip stitch in first single crochet of next Row One Square.

Rows 2-5: Rep Rows 2-5 of First Square.

Continue arranging Row One Squares, making and joining Row Two Squares as established, until 7 Row Two Squares have been made and joined to the 8 Row One Squares.

Fasten off.

Row Three Squares (make and join 8 squares)

With RS facing, join A with slip stitchin tip of first A-colored Square two rows below, chain 6.

First Square

Row 1 (RS): Working in back "bumps" of chain only, single crochet in 2nd chain from hook, (chain 1, skip next chain, single crochet in next chain) twice;slip stitch in end of first row of next Row Two Square.

Row 2: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice.

Row 3: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice;working in ends of rowsalongside of next Row Two Square, skip next row,slip stitch in end of next row.

Rows 4 and 5: Rep Rows 2 and 3.

Next Square

Row 1: Working in stitchesof last row of current Row Two Square,chain 1, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip nextchain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice; slip stitch in end of first row of next Row Two Square.

Rows 2-5: Rep Rows 2-5 of First Square.

Continue as established, until 7 Row Three Squares have been made and joined to the 7 Row Two Squares.

Last Square

Next Row: Working in stitches of last row of current Square, chain 1, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice.

Next 4 Rows: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice.

Fasten off.

Row Four Squares (make and join 7 squares)

First Square

With RS facing, draw up a loop of B in first single crochet of first Row Three Square.

Row 1:Chain 1, single crochet in same single crochetas join, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice; slip stitchin end of first row of next Row Three Square.

Row 2: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice.

Row 3: Chain 1, turn, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice; working in ends of rows alongside of next Row Three Square, skip next row, slip stitch in end of next row.

Rows 4 and 5: Rep Rows 2 and 3.

Next Square

Row 1: Working in stitchesof last row of current Row Three Square, chain 1, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice; slip stitch in end of first row of next Row Three Square.

Rows 2-5: Rep Rows 2-5 of First Square.Continue as established, until 7 Row Four Squares have been made and joined to the 8 Row Three Squares. Fasten off.

Rows Five-Twenty-Seven Squares

With A, make and join Row Five Squares as for Row Three Squares.

With B, make and join Row Six Squares as for Row Four Squares.

Continue making and joining rows of squares as established, alternating A and B rows.

Border

With RS facing, join D with single crochet in tip of any square along edge of Blanket.

Round 1: Working in stitches,ends of rows, or along opposite side of foundation chains(as needed), work and join squares around edges of Blanket as established; working corner squares as follows: chain6, single crochet in 2nd chain from hook, (chain 1, skip next chain, single crochet in next chain) twice, slip stitch in first single crochet (or end of row) of current Last Row Square; *chain 1, turn, single crochet in first single crochet, (chain 1, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in next single crochet) twice; rep from * once more; working in stitches (or ends of rows) current Last Row Square, skip next chain-1 space, slip stitch in next single crochet; rep from * once more (corner square made); join with slip stitch in first single crochet.

Fasten off.

Round 2: With B, rep Round 1.

Round 3: With C, rep Round 1.

Round 4: Join A with single crochet in edge of first row (in the "valley") of any Square immediately following a corner Square, skip next row, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in end of next row, skip next 2 rows, (single crochet, chain 3, single crochet) in top corner single crochet, skip next chain-1 space, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next single crochet, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in last single crochet; *single crochet in end of first row of next Square, skip next row, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in end of next row, skip next 2 rows, (single crochet, chain 3, single crochet) in top corner single crochet, skip next chain-1 space, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next single crochet, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in last single crochet; rep from * across to next corner Square; working along opposite side of foundation chain, single crochet in first chain, skip next chain, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next chain, skip next 2 chain, (single crochet, chain 3, single crochet) in end of first row, skip next row, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in end of next row, skip next 2 rows, (single crochet, chain 3, single crochet) in top corner single crochet, skip next chain-1 space, (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet) in next single crochet, skip next chain-1 space, single crochet in last single crochet; rep from * around; join with slip stitch in first single crochet.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Tunisian Wrap

Pattern Link: http://www.yarnspirations.com/tunisian-wrap.html

This beautiful wrap is crocheted with a circular Tunisian crochet hook. These hooks have crochet hooks on both ends and are connected with a plastic piece that lets you hold a lot of stitches. The wrap will be about 22 inches wide by 70 inches long when completed.

You will need 1 skein of the main color, and 1 skein of a contrasting color. The pattern shown is worked in Caron Simply Soft yarn in a solid color and Caron Simply Soft paints for the contrasting color. You will also need a 24 inch circular Tunisian crochet hook and a tapestry needle.

Gauge is 15 Tks (Tunisian knit stitches) and 8 rows equal 5 ½ inches.

With Afghan/Tunisian hook and B, chain 68.

Row 1 (RS):With B,

Forward Pass: Insert hook in 2nd chain from hook and draw up a loop, *insert hook in next chain and draw up a loop;
repeat from * across—68 loops on hook.

Return Pass:Yarn over and draw through first loop on hook, *yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook;
repeat from * across—1 loop remains on hook.

Rows 2–8: With B,

Forward Pass: Skip first vertical bar (at edge), Tks across, working last stitch as Tss.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Fasten off B. Join A.

Row 9:With A,

Forward Pass: Chain 1 (counts as first Tdouble stitch), skip first vertical bar, Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next vertical bar, [Tdouble stitch] twice, *yarn over, skip
next vertical bar, [Tdouble stitch] twice; repeat from * across—68 loops on hook (consisting of 46 Tdouble stitch and 22 yarn over-spaces).

Note: During return pass the yarn over-loopsare worked the same as all other loops on hook.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Rows 10–12: With A,

Forward Pass: Chain 1 (counts as first Tdouble stitch), skip first stitch, Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next yarn over-space, [Tdouble stitch] twice, *yarn over, skip next yarn overspace,

[Tdouble stitch ] twice; repeat from * across.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 13: With A,

Forward Pass: Skip first stitch, Tks across, working last stitch as Tss.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Rows 14–16: With A, Forward Pass: Skip first vertical bar, Tks across, working last stitch as Tss.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Rows 17–20: Repeat Rows 9–12.

Rows 21–92:Repeat Rows 13–20 nine more times.

Fasten off A. Join B.

Rows 93–100:With B, repeat rows 13–16 two more times.

Row 101: Chain 1, single crochet in each stitch across. Fasten off.

Round 1 (RS): With RS facing, join B with slip stitch in last single crochet made, chain 1, (single crochet, chain 1, single crochet) in same single crochet (corner made);
working across side edge, chain 1, skip next stitch, *single crochet in next stitch, chain 1, skip next stitch*;repeat from * to * across to next
corner, (single crochet, chain 1, single crochet) in corner; working across lower edge, chain 1, repeat from * to * across to next corner, (single crochet, chain

1, single crochet) in corner; working across 2nd side, chain 1, repeat from * to * across to next corner, (single crochet, chain 1, single crochet) in corner;
working across top, chain 1, repeat from * to * across; join with slip stitch in first single crochet. Fasten off.

Ruffle Edge

With RS facing, join A with slip stitch in chain-1 space of any corner, to work across a short edge.

Row 1: Note: To work Tunisian stitches into standard crochet stitches (single crochet), insert hook under top two loops of the stitch and
work the Tunisian stitch as usual.

Forward Pass: Chain 1 (does not count as a Tdouble stitch here and throughout), Tdouble stitch in next single crochet, yarn over, skip next chain-1 space, *Tdouble stitch in
next single crochet, yarn over, skip next chain-1 space; repeat from * across to next corner working last Tdouble stitch in first single crochet of corner—35 Tdouble stitch.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 2:

Forward Pass: Chain 1, *(Tdouble stitch, yarn over, Tdouble stitch) in next Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch, [Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch] twice;repeat from * across
to last 2 stitches, (Tdouble stitch, yarn over, Tdouble stitch) in next stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch, Tdouble stitch—47 Tdouble stitch.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 3:

Forward Pass: Chain 1, *(Tdouble stitch, yarn over, Tdouble stitch) in next Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch, [Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch] 3 times;repeat from *
across to last 3 stitches, (Tdouble stitch, yarn over, Tdouble stitch) in next stitch, [yarn over, skip next stitch, Tdouble stitch] twice—59 Tdouble stitch.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 4:

Forward Pass: Chain 1, *(Tdouble stitch, yarn over, Tdouble stitch) in next Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch, [Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch] 4 times;repeat from *
across to last 4 stitches, (Tdouble stitch, yarn over, Tdouble stitch) in next stitch, [yarn over, skip next stitch, Tdouble stitch] 3 times—71 Tdouble stitch.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 5:

Forward Pass: Chain 1, *(Tdouble stitch, yarn over, Tdouble stitch) in next Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch, [Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch] 5 times;repeat from *
across to last 5 stitches, (Tdouble stitch, yarn over, Tdouble stitch) in next stitch, [yarn over, skip next stitch, Tdouble stitch] 4 times—83 Tdouble stitch.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Row 6:

Forward Pass: Chain 1, *(Tdouble stitch, yarn over, Tdouble stitch) in next Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch, [Tdouble stitch, yarn over, skip next stitch] 6 times;repeat from *
across to last 6 stitches, (Tdouble stitch, yarn over, Tdouble stitch) in next stitch, [yarn over, skip next stitch, Tdouble stitch] 5 times—95 Tdouble stitch.

Return Pass: Work return pass.

Fasten off.Work ruffle edge across other short edge.

FINISHING

Using yarn needle, weave in ends.Block gently, if desired.

Attributions

All of the patterns I have included in this book that are not mine can be found for free on the internet. I have given credit to the original designers where I could, and the attributions for the images I use in this book can be found at the end of this book. Many thanks go out to the wonderful designers and teachers who have help add to the wonderful content in this book they have shared for free.

All images shared from Flickr are shared under the Creative Commons License. All images for patterns can be found at the pattern link provided in the text.

Images

Crochet Symbol Chart
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/chart_crochet.html

Image from the Craft Yarn Council

Heart Pattern
http://www.dmc-usa.com/Education/Technique-Overviews/Crochet/Crochet-Pattern-Instructions.aspx

Image from DMC USA Tutorials

Granny Square Chart
http://www.craftyminx.com/2011/11/crochet-school-lesson-21-reading-crochet-charts.html

Image from Craft Minx Blog

Chart in the Round and Square
http://www.thebestknittersguide.com/2010/11/reading-chart-crochet-instructions.html

Image from The Best Knitter’s Guide

Heart Graph
http://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/2012/03/crocheting-from-graph.html

Image from Crochet Kitten

Intarsia Heart
https://www.flickr.com/photos/22810456@N07/2339962909

Image shared on Flickr by pietrukb

Farm Friends Blanket
https://www.flickr.com/photos/35640661@N03/5607771311

Image shared on Flickr by Amber

Tapestry Color Change
http://iweb.tntech.edu/cventura/rightstitches.html

Image from Carol Ventura’s Online tutorial

Small Crochet Bag
https://www.flickr.com/photos/26150164@N02/5989470363

Image shared on Flickr by Lucie

Fair Isle Jumper Right Side
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beanaboos/2866068709

Image shared on Flickr by beanaboos

Fair Isle Jumper Wrong Side
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beanaboos/2866068723

Image shared on Flickr by beanaboos

Entrelac Blanket
https://www.flickr.com/photos/87505752@N03/14581126064

Image shared on Flickr by Nicole Johnson7

Spine of the Chain
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmYMdmh2OWs

Still from How to Entrelac Crochet by The Crochet Crowd at 6:49

First row of Entrelac Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmYMdmh2OWs

Still from How to Entrelac Crochet by The Crochet Crowd at 7:19 and 8:08

Color Change on Entrelac Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmYMdmh2OWs

Still from How to Entrelac Crochet by The Crochet Crowd at 15:13, 15:52, and 18:25

Straight Edge on Entrelac Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmYMdmh2OWs

Still from How to Entrelac Crochet by The Crochet Crowd at 35:47

Tunisian Crochet Hook Set
http://www.amazon.com/Multicolour-Aluminum-TUNISIAN-Crochet-Needles/dp/B00BLZ3WCG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417457394&sr=8-1&keywords=tunisian+crochet+hooks+set

Image from Amazon

Bamboo Tunisian Crochet Hooks
http://www.amazon.com/Tunisian-Carbonized-3-0-10-0mm--With-Adjoined-Flexibility/dp/B008OBFL92/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1417457394&sr=8-12&keywords=tunisian+crochet+hooks+set

Image from Amazon

Broomstick Lace Steps
http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/26/how-to-crochet-broomstick-lace/

Lion Brand Yarn Blog

Broomstick Lace Fabric
https://www.flickr.com/photos/46858275@N07/4299569069

Image shared on Flickr by singlestitches

Tunisian Examples
http://www.purlbee.com/2013/04/13/tunisian-crochet-basics/comment-page-1/#comment-49010

Images from Purl Bee Tunisian Crochet Tutorial

Freeform Crochet
https://www.flickr.com/photos/moonrhythm/695882291

Image shared on Flickr by ss

Freeform Hat
https://www.flickr.com/photos/knitsteel/8064692073

Image shared on Flickr by Kirsten Skiles

Freeform Denim Jacket
https://www.flickr.com/photos/noricum/254419076

Image shared on Flickr by Noricum

Freeform Scarf
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77297780@N08/7256306846

Image shared on Flickr by Jeanette248

Bullion Stitch Examples
http://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-bullion-stitch/

Images from Crochet Spot Blog Tutorial

Spiral Example
http://snovej.com/archives/freeform-crochet-spiral

Image from Snovej Blog Tutorial

Nautical Shell
http://snovej.com/archives/freeform-crochet-basics-part-5-the-nautilus-shell

Image from Snovej Bog Tutorial

Surface Crochet
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jacquedavis/4602728530

Image shared on Flickr by Jacques Davis

Videos

How to Read Afghan Crochet Graph Pattern Charts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtZIJiVXMbc

Jennifer Greenfield

Basic Intarsia Technique
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xhm6WK5cqxU&list=PLbYXtSSiwjuoaCOMHUaLpNM1Oa1-QOcbk

Crochet Ever After

Fair Isle Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r98K2d7hzCw

Crochet Ever After

DIY Learn How to Crochet Broomstick Lace Blanket
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRRcbQ9kPXs

Naztazia

Learn How to Crochet – Broomstick Lace Scarf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzzlVMwewnY

Naztazia

Lesson 1: Tunisian Crochet - Overview & Tips
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYGJlLSTotk

The Crochet Crowd

Lesson 2: Getting Started with Tunisian Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxKWw0SCetM

The Crochet Crowd

Learn How to Tunisian Crochet
http://www.redheart.com/learn/videos/learn-how-make-tunisian-knit-stitch-knit-crochet

Red Heart

How to Freeform Crochet Series
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TA-qNKiuKv0

Sheruknittingcom

How to Surface Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ8FI5PJfvk

Moogly

Resources

PDF Link for Crochet Symbol Chart
http://media.craftyarncouncil.com/files/CYCACrochetChartSymbols.pdf