Crochet Techniques For Intermediates
Author: King, Laura
Date: 2014-12-05T05:00:00+00:00

Table of Contents

Chapter 1: Crochet Refresher

Chapter 2: Increases and Decreases

Chapter 3: How To Make Button Holes

Chapter 4: Joining

Chapter 5: Crocheting Borders

Chapter 6: Miscellaneous Crochet Techniques

Chapter 7: Crochet Patterns

Crochet Techniques For Intermediates

Laura King

(2014)

Crochet Techniques For Intermediates

By

Laura King

Copyright © 2013 by Laura King

All rights reserved.

This publication is protected under the copyright laws of the United States of America. No part of this work may be used, reproduced, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, and faxing, or by any information storage and retrieval system by anyone but the purchaser for their own personal use.

This book may not be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of Laura King, except in the case of a reviewer who wishes to quote brief passages for the sake of a review written for inclusions in a magazine, newspaper, or journal—and these cases require written permission from Laura King prior to publication. Any reproduction or other unauthorized use of the material or artwork herein is prohibited without the express written permission of the author.

Although the author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information in this publication was correct at press time, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.

OTHER BOOKS BY THIS AUTHOR

Please visit http://goo.gl/vBmocd to discover other books by Laura King.

United Kingdom Readers Please Visit: http://goo.gl/XhRaKt

“Crochet Stitches For Intermediates”

“Crochet Techniques For Intermediates”

“Crochet Guide For Intermediates”

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Chapter 1: Crochet Refresher

The History of Crochet

Getting Comfortable With Your Crochet Hooks

What Should You Have in Your Crochet Project Bag?

Chapter 2: Increases and Decreases

Single Crochet Invisible Decrease

Half Double Crochet Invisible Decrease

Double Crochet Invisible Decrease

Increase, End of a Row

Increase, Within a Row

Chapter 3: How To Make Button Holes

Horizontal Buttonhole

Loop Buttonhole

Chapter 4: Joining

Backstitch Seam Joining

Granny Square Joining

Join As You Go With Granny Squares

Needle Overcasting Joining

Whip Stitch Joining

Crochet Hook Joining

Chapter 5: Crocheting Borders

Arc Lace Edging

Lattice Ruffle Edging

Chapter 6: Miscellaneous Crochet Techniques

Tapestry Crochet

Surface Slip Stitch

Working in Rows

Working in Rounds

Switching Colors

Chapter 7: Crochet Patterns

How to Read a Crochet Pattern

Crochet Pattern Abbreviations

Dog Sweater

Ruffled Crochet Flower

Other Books by This Author

CHAPTER 1: CROCHET REFRESHER

THE HISTORY OF CROCHET

Crochet, sounds a little fancy, but what does it mean? It comes from the middle French word “croche”, which is the word for hook. Named for the hook located on the end of the device. Wood and bone were most commonly used to create crochet hooks, however now aluminum makes for a very popular crochet hook.

Crochet is theorized to have come from the Middle East, South America, or Asia. Though its birthplace remains a mystery, it’s a fact that crochet grew in popularity in the 19th century across most of Europe. Crochet was first referenced in the late 1890s in, The Memoirs of a Highland Lady written by Elizabeth Grant.

It was thought that the first publicly printed crochet patterns appeared in 1824 in the Dutch magazine, Penelope. However an 1819 publication of the Swedish magazine, Konst och nyhetsmagasin för medborgare av alla klasser, contained a crochet pattern making it the first published crochet pattern. Throughout the years the longest crochet pattern in print has been the granny square, which was first published in 1897 by the Weldon Company of London.

In the 19th century Ireland was in the Great Irish Famine (The Irish Potato Famine), which took place from 1842 - 1847. During this time, the Irish starved and suffered from countless diseases; nearly 1 million died and over 1 million others fled their homeland. The Irish crocheted lace to supplement their incomes during this poverty stricken time. Mademoiselle Riego de la Blanchardiere is thought to have created the Irish Lace patterns. She published a book containing many Irish Lace patterns in early 1846.

As you advance through your knowledge of crochet techniques, patterns, and stitches it is easy to become overwhelmed. How do you pick out the right yarn for your project? Do you have the correct crochet hook? Who the heck is Hank? Don’t worry, compiled here are fast easy reference points to help you navigate the exciting and creative world of crochet.

GETTING COMFORTABLE WITH YOUR YARN

Yarn is packaged in 3 different ways.

-Ball: The yarn is wrapped around itself into the shape of a ball.

-Hank: The yarn is wound time and time again in an ongoing long loop.

-Skein: This is done by a machine, and how you will often find the yarn in your favorite craft stores.

Learn what the information on the yarns label means.

What’s in a name?: Make a note of the name of the yarn in case you need to buy more of that yarn in the future. Nothing is more frustrating than being out of yarn and not being able to remember exactly which yarn it was.

The company behind the yarn: Know the manufacturer of the yarn you use. This makes it easier to acquire the same yarn for future projects.

Yarn Weight: This will read in either grams or ounces. This is important information as it will help you determine how much yarn you will need to complete a project.

0 Lace - Crochet Thread

1 Super Fine - Perfect For Baby Projects

2 Fine - Ideal For Baby And Sports

3 Light - Light Worsted Weight Yarns

4 Medium - Worsted, Perfect For A Afghan

5 Bulky - Chunky Thick Yarn

6 Really Bulky - Roving Weight Yarn

How long is it? The yardage will let you know the length of yarn within the package of yarn. This is important as most yarn patterns will tell you by length how much yarn you will need for a project.

Size really does matter. The gauge or hook size will let you know the suggested hook size for the specific type of yarn. This is just a reference point, so a variation in hook size is okay depending on your project.

GETTING COMFORTABLE WITH YOUR CROCHET HOOKS

There are various parts of a crochet hook, get to know each part below.

Handle - This is the end of the crochet hook that typically sits against the palm of the hand.

Point - The end of the crochet hook used to insert the crochet hook through a stitch.

Shank - The area where the loops of the yarn are held, the diameter will determine what size the stitches will be.

Throat - The curved part of the hook where the yarn sits.

Thumb Rest - The portion of the crochet hook where the fingers hold the crochet hook. This area helps with balance.

Crochet hooks come in a wide variety of sizes. Each size will create various size of work. Below are the sizes of crochet hooks.

-2.25 mm or B/1

-2.75 mm or C/2

-3.25 mm or D/3

-3.5 mm or E/4

-3.75 mm or F/5

-4.0 mm or G/6

-4.5 mm or 7

-5.0 mm or H/8

-5.5 mm or I/9

-6.0 mm or J/10

-6.5 mm or K/10.5

-8.0 mm or L/11

-9.0 mm or M/N/13

-10.0 mm or N/P/15

-11.5 mm or P/16

-15.0 mm or P/Q

-16.0 mm or Q

-19.0 mm or S

The size of the crochet hook does matter. Your larger crochet hooks are almost the size of the handle of a broom. This would not work well for intricate lacework. Large chunky afghans would not be easily created with very thin crochet hooks. Always check your pattern to see what size hook you will need.

WHAT SHOULD YOU HAVE IN YOUR CROCHET PROJECT BAG?

-Extra Sharp Scissors.

-Tape Measure Or Ruler

-Safety Pins

-Scrap Paper

-Pincel

-Fabric Marker

-Darning Needle, Or Other Finishing Needles

CHAPTER 2: INCREASES AND DECREASES

SINGLE CROCHET INVISIBLE DECREASE

-Start by inserting the crochet hook into the front loop, and only front loop, of the upcoming stitch:

-Then insert the crochet hook into the front loop, and only front loop, of the next stitch. Tip: Make sure you are going from front to back of the stitch:

Yarn over the crochet hook and pull through 2 loops:

-Yarn over the crochet hook and pull through the last 2 loops on the crochet hook.

-Then continue your row as directed. Easy as that you’ve decreased your row of single crochet:

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET INVISIBLE DECREASE

-Start by yarning over your crochet hook. Then insert your crochet hook into the front loop only of the upcoming stitch:

-Then insert the crochet hook into the front loop, and only front loop, of the next stitch. Tip: Make sure you are going from front to back of the stitch:

-Yarn over the crochet hook and pull through 2 loops:

-Yarn over the crochet hook and pull through the remaining 3 loops on the hook.

-Then continue your row as directed. Easy as that you’ve decrease your row of half double crochet:

-Increase, by 1 at Start of a Row

-Adding in the beginning by stitching twice into the first stitch. For this example, we will use the single crochet.

-At the end of the row, turn your work.

-Chain 1.

-1 single crochet into the upcoming stitch.

-1 single crochet into the upcoming stitch.

Then complete the row as directed.

DOUBLE CROCHET INVISIBLE DECREASE

-Start by yarning over your crochet hook. Then insert the hook into the front loop, remember front loop only, this is very important, of the upcoming 2 stitches:

-Yarn over the crochet hook and gently pull through the first 2 loops:

-Yarn over the crochet hook and gently pull through 2 loops:

-Yarn over the crochet hook and gently pull through 2 loops.

-Then continue your row as directed. Easy as that you’ve decreased your row of double crochet:

INCREASE, END OF A ROW

You will use this increase technique when you need to increase by two or more stitches at the end of a row. For this example, I will be using the single crochet stitch.

-Start at the end of the row and chain as many stitches as you need to add.

-Now turn the work over.

-After turning chain 1, and then start working into the second stitch from the crochet hook.

-Continue working a single crochet into each stitch going forward:

INCREASE, WITHIN A ROW

This technique is a lot easier that it sounds. All you need to do to increase within a row is to crochet 2 stitches into one stitch. For this example I will be using single crochet.

-Crochet 1 single crochet into each stitch.

-When ready crochet 2 single crochets into one stitch.

-Then complete the row with 1 single crochet in each remaining stitch:

Your row has now increased by one.

CHAPTER 3: HOW TO MAKE BUTTON HOLES

HORIZONTAL BUTTONHOLE

For this example we are using single crochet, however you would use this same technique with other stitches.

-First Row: Work your stitches in all the way to where the buttonhole will be. You will then skin the number of stitches need for the diameter of the buttonhole. Chain the number of stitches that you skipped. For this example, we skipped 5 so we chained 5. After you chain continue the row of the first stitch after the stitches you skipped:

-Second Row: You will crochet the regular pattern across the row over the chain stitches. You will then continue working your pattern as directed:

LOOP BUTTONHOLE

For this example we are using single crochet; however you would use this same technique with other stitches.

-You will begin this on the last row or while you are edging.

-Find where you would like to have your button hole. Skip the number of stitches so that it equals the correct diameter for the button. You will then chain the same number of stitches that you skipped. For this example, we skipped 5 so we chained 5.

-Turn the work over make sure that the chained is doubled back. Then slip stitch into the last stitch, in this case the last stitch is a single crochet.

-Now single crochet over each of the chains. Tip: It is very important for the integrity of the piece, to have the exact number of single crochets as you have chains.

-To finish off the loop simply slip stitch over the next stitch and continue to the pattern as directed.

CHAPTER 4: JOINING

BACKSTITCH SEAM JOINING

-Start by holding the two pieces of work right sides together. To keep them steady you may want to tack them together while you work. You will need a darning needle to backstitch, and you will work from right to left:

-Insert the darning needle straight through the work from top piece of work to the bottom. Then reinsert the darning needle from the bottom to top in stitch 2 ahead:

-Then insert the darning needle where your last stitch ended, each stitch will be worked halfway through the previous stitch. You will continue the previous technique until you reach the end of the row:

Tip: This may result in a bulky thick seam.

GRANNY SQUARE JOINING

-To start make sure that you know the order you would like the squares to appear in your blanket.

-Stack the squares in order so you can keep track of which square belongs in each part of the blanket. You will want as few squares in each stack as possible. For example, if you have 80 squares you will want 10 stacks of 8 squares.

-Remove the top square from a stack and set it on the left of the stack, then take the next square and set it just to the right of the first square you removed from the original stack.

-Put these two squares together with the backs touching one another.

-Chain 3 in the very corner of the front/top square (Square A).

-Now make 3 double crochet trebles in the corner of the bottom square (Square B)/

-Now 3 double crochet trebles in the upcoming space of Square A.

-Then 3 double crochet trebles in the upcoming space of Square B.

-Continue this method until you’ve reached the bottom of the two squares. Then in the bottom corner space of Square B make 1 double crochet treble.

-Bind off.

-Continue this method with the rest of the squares in the stack.

-Once you have all your short rows complete we move onto the next phase, joining the rows of squares.

-Lay the rows with the backs facing one another.

-Then repeat the previous pattern to combine the rows.

-You’ll end with a single double crochet treble in the final corner space.

JOIN AS YOU GO WITH GRANNY SQUARES

This method works great if you want to join your granny squares without having to sew them all together at the end.

-Start in a corner. When you come up to the next corner make a granny cluster of 3 tr. You will then need to locate what square this new square will attach to.

-Make a chain as you normally would with a corner. For the second chain insert the crochet hook from front to back to catch the corner of the square you are attaching to. Pull through the corner and then through the loop.

-Now make a chain without joining.

-Make the second 3tr granny cluster in the corner. To join to the other square repeat the joining method in each space between the granny clusters: Make a chain as you normally would with a corner. For the second chain insert the crochet hook from front to back to catch the corner of the square you are attaching to. Pull through the corner and then through the loop.

-A tip for this corner is to only attach to the top and side squares, not the corner square. Insert the crochet hook front to the back to grab the yarn of the top square corner, gently pull through the corner and the loop. This is your 1st chain that normally appears in the corner. Make a chain, but don’t join. Insert the crochet hook front to the back to grab the yarn of the side square corner, gently pull through the corner and the loop. Then make the 3 tr cluster in the corner and continue to join to the side square as you did above: Make a chain as you normally would with a corner. For the second chain insert the crochet hook from front to back to catch the corner of the square you are attaching to. Pull through the corner and then through the loop.

-The final corner is joined by chaining, joining, and chaining as you did before.

NEEDLE OVERCASTING JOINING

-Start by holding the two pieces of work right sides together. To keep them steady, you may want to tack them together while you work. You will work from left to right:

-You will insert the needle through both layers of fabric:

-Then bring the needle overtop the work and insert through the work from the same side as before:

-Repeat this technique until you reach the end of the work:

Tip: This technique will give you a less polished look, but a less bulky finish.

WHIP STITCH JOINING

-You will need a needle and long length of yarn for this method.

-Begin with the right side of two squares facing one another.

-Start in the corner of the two squares.

-Pull the needle through matching stitches of each square. Leave about 6 inches.

-Reinsert the needle into the same stitch and secure the stitch by placing the needle through the 6 inch loop and tightening.

-Continue this method until all squares are combined.

-Make sure to weave your tails of yarn into the work to hide it.

Tip: Start with joining squares into rows and then joining the rows together.

CROCHET HOOK JOINING

-Start by holding the two pieces of work right sides together. To keep them steady you may want to tack them together while you work:

-You will begin joining by inserting the crochet hook into the top strands of the first stitch in each piece of work:

-Yarn over, gently pull through, and chain 1:

-Continue the preceding technique for each stitch until you reach the end of your work:

CHAPTER 5: CROCHETING BORDERS

ARC LACE EDGING

-Start by chaining 9 and then turn your work.

-7 sc in 2nd chain from hook, slip stitch the next 2 chain, turn your work.

-(Ch 1, half double crochet in sc) 7x, chain 3, and turn your work.

-Skip 1stitch double crochet, (2 double crochet in chain 1 space, 1 dc in half double crochet) 6x, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, skip 2 foundation chains, slip stitch the last 3 chain, and turn your work.

-(Ch 4, slip stitch on third chain from hook, chain 1, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc) 7x.

-Repeat above steps until work is desired length.

-If you’d like spaces between the arcs, simply add additional chains to the foundation chain.

-Chain 1, 15 single crochet per arc.

LATTICE RUFFLE EDGING

-Round 1: With A make loop on hook, work 3 single crochet before a corner of work, 3 single crochet in corner, 3 single crochet after corner (corner group made), sc along edge of work (working 16 single crochet to 1 inch) to next corner; work other corners and sides to correspond, join (with slip stitch in first single crochet).

-Round 2: Chain 1, Single crochet in joined stitch, [chain 7, 1 single crochet] in each of next 8 single crochet of corner group, [chain 7, 1 single crochet] in every 2nd single crochet to next corner group, [chain 7, 1 single crochet] in each of 9 single crochet; continue in same way around, join.

-Rounds 3, 4, 5: Chain 1, turn, slip stitch to center of next loop, chain 1, sc in loop, [chain 7, 1 single crochet] in each remaining loop, chain 7, join.

-Round 6: Work as around 3 but only chain 8. Rep round 6 times. Tie off.

-Edging-With B single crochet in any loop, * chain 9, single crochet in 6th chain from hook, chain 6, single crochet in chain just used, chain 5, sc in same chain, chain 3, sc in next loop; rep from * around, join, tie off.

CHAPTER 6: MISCELLANEOUS CROCHET TECHNIQUES

TAPESTRY CROCHET

Tapestry in the round is the most common way to work tapestry crochet.

This example is using single crochet.

-Start with a round of stitches.

-Hold the new yarn color behind your work and simply crochet over this new color a few stitches to secure it.

-Stitch before where you want to use your new color, insert into the upcoming stitch, but yarn over with the new color, and pull through as normal.

-The new color stitch, work as your normal stitch, but this time work over the yarn tail from the original color.

-Repeat this same process when you want to switch back to the original color.

-Stitch before where you want to use your original color, insert into the upcoming stitch, but yarn over with the original color, and pull through as normal.

-The original color stitch, work as your normal stitch, but this time work over the yarn tail from the new color.

SURFACE SLIP STITCH

-Start with a field of crochet stitches, this example is single crochet.

-Insert your hook from top to bottom through the work where you’d like to start the surface crochet stitches.

-From the bottom take the yarn for surface crochet, make a loop over the crochet hook, and gently pull through the work.

-Hold the cut end of the yarn down to secure; insert the crochet hook into the next stitch, in the direction you’d like the surface stitches to go. Pull through a loop from working end of the yarn, and then pull through the work like a slip stitch through the other loop.

-Continue in the desired pattern.

WORKING IN ROWS

In short, this simply means working back and forth from one side to the other.

You will want to rely on your pattern here because it will tell you how many to chain. For this example, we will use the single crochet.

-Let’s say your pattern asked you to chain 10:

-You will then single crochet in the first chain from the hook and all following chains:

-Now turn your work and chain 1:

-Now single crochet in all stitches, starting with the 2nd stitch from the hook; unless directed otherwise by the pattern:

WORKING IN ROUNDS

In short it simply means that you will be working in a circle.

You will want to rely on your pattern here because it will tell you how many to chain.

-Chain the required number of chain:

-Connect the first and last stitch with a slip stitch. This will form a ring:

-In the first round you will crochet into each stitch unless directed by the pattern:

-Slip stitch the last stitch and the first stitch together to finish up each round.

-To start your next round chain (we are chaining one for single crochet) and chain all the way around. Finish with a slip stitch to connect:

SWITCHING COLORS

-Insert the crochet hook into the upcoming stitch and then yarn over:

-Gently pull the yarn through only one loop on the crochet hook.

-Now release the loose end of the original color of yarn and hold the new color yarn against the piece of work:

-Yarn over the crochet hook with the new color of yarn that you have selected:

-Gently pull the new color of yarn through the remaining 2 loops left on the crochet hook:

-Now with the new color of yarn continue your pattern as directed:

CHAPTER 7: CROCHET PATTERNS

HOW TO READ A CROCHET PATTERN

When you start reading crochet patterns, especially ones that advance in difficulty, it’s easy to become confused. Following these helpful tips on reading crochet patterns, you will find a Crochet Pattern Abbreviation guide, which provides a quick resource for just about all symbols and shorthand you will encounter while working through a crochet pattern. Let’s get started.

EXAMPLE PATTERN:

-Ch 30

-Row 1: Work 1 hdc in third chain from hook and in each ch across.

-Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Work 1 hdc in each hdc in BACK LOOP only.

-Repeat row 2 until panel measure 6” from the beginning.

-Fasten off and leave a 12” tail.

EXAMPLE PATTERN (WITH EXPLANATION):

-Ch 30

So you will make 30 chains

-Row 1: Work 1 hdc in third chain from hook and in each ch across.

So start with the third chain from the hook you are going to half double crochet the entire row.

-Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Work 1 hdc in each hdc in BACK LOOP only.

Chain 1 and then turn your work. Then using only the back loop half double crochet into each of the previous rows half double crochet.

-Repeat row 2 until panel measure 6” from the beginning.

Pretty easy to understand right, simply look back up to row 2 and repeat.

-Fasten off and leave a 12” tail.

Fasten off the yarn, but make sure to measure an extra 12” before cutting your yarn.

Crocheting patterns are not difficult if you understand that they are directions written in shorthand. Use the abbreviation guide to help you and don’t hesitate to take notes on the pattern to help you along. Other things you will find on your pattern are: yarn weight suggestions and required crochet hook size.

CROCHET PATTERN ABBREVIATIONS

Below you will find abbreviations commonly found in crochet patterns. For easy reference they are listed in alphabetical order.

alt - alternate
approx - approximately
beg - beginning
bet - between

BL - back Loop, block
bo - bobble

BP - back post

BPdc - back post double crochet

BPsc - back post single crochet

BPtr -  back post treble crochet

CA - color A

CB - color B

CC - contrasting color
ch - chain
chs - chains

CL - cluster
dc - double crochet
dc2tog - double crochet 2 stitches together
dec - decrease
dtr - double treble crochet

FL - front loop

FO - finished object

FP - front post

FPdc - front post double crochet

FPsc - front post single crochet

FPtr - front post treble crochet
g - gram
half dc or hdc - half double crochet
inc - increase
incl - include
m - meter

MC - main color
oz - ounce(s)

p - picot
pat - pattern

PM - place marker or place a marker
pc - popcorn
rep - repeat
rnd - round
rnds - rounds
sc - single crochet
sc2tog - single crochet 2 together
sk - skip

SL st - slip stitch
sp - space
sps - spaces
st - stitch
sts - stitches
tch - turning chain
tog - together
tr - treble crochet or triple crochet
tr tr - triple treble crochet
yo - yarn over

* - Repeat the directions with the asterisks as directed. This may be from another set of directions.

( ) - Complete work specified in parentheses the number of times directed

[ ] - Complete work specified in brackets the number of times directed

“ - inches

DOG SWEATER

MATERIALS:

-Caron Simply Soft

-Crochet Hook Size H

-Stitches: ch, sc, sl st, dc, fpdc, bpdc.

INSTRUCTIONS:

-Round 1: Ch50 (or an even number that fits around your pup’s neck)

-Dc in 4th ch from the hook. Dc in each remaining ch.

-Careful to not allow your work to twist, and then join with sl st in top of first st to create a ring.

-Rounds 2-3: Sl st around FP of same st. Ch3.

-BPDC around next st.

-(FPDC around next st. BPDC around next st.) around.

-Join together with sl st in top of beginning ch3.

Pay Special Attention To Not Turn Your Work. Now Begin Work On Your Short Rows.

-Row 4: Ch3, do not turn the work. Dc in same st. (Dc in next st, 2dc in next st) across half of R3. (I had 32dc)

-Rows 5-10: Ch3, turn the work. Dc in each st. (32dc)

-Repeat row as many times as you need so that the final short row stop just behind your pups front legs.

Start Work On Your Rounds Again

-Rounds 11: [CHEST] Ch52, (Or any other even number so that it reaches around your pups chest behind their front legs.)

-Careful do that you work does not twist, join with a sl st in the top of the first st of last round.

-Ch3, dc in ea dc and ch around. Join with a sl st in the top of the beginning ch3. (84dc)

-Round 12: Ch3, do not turn the work. Dc in same sp. Sk next st.

-(2dc in next st, sk next st) around.

-Join with a sl st in top of beg ch3. (84dc)

-Roundss13-14: Rep R12.

-Rounds15: Ch3, do not turn the work. Dc in each st all the way around. (approx 63dc)

NOTE: Count the stitches for Round 15... if there is an odd number of stitches, work an additional dc in the final st.

-Rounds16-17: Sl st around FP of the same st. Ch3.

-BPDC around the next  st.

-(FPDC around the next st. BPDC around next st.) around.

-Join with a sl st in top of beginning ch3.

-Finishing the Chest Opening

-Holding the neck of the sweater on the right side so that the left side faces you, join the same yarn with a sl st in the second stitch on the bottom edge of the neck area. Work 2sc around the post of each st at the end of each short row. Sc in each unworked lp of each st along the edge of the chest. 2sc around the post of each st at the end of each short row. Sl st in the 2nd st on the bottom edge of the neck area.

-Tie off.

RUFFLED CROCHET FLOWER

MATERIALS:

-6mm crochet hook

-Worsted yarn

INSTRUCTIONS:

-Slip knot yarn to the crochet hook

-Chain 30

-Single crochet into the 5th stitch from the hook.

-*Chain 5, Single Crochet into the next stitch* Continue until the end of your foundation chain

-Fasten off, leave a long tail of yarn about 12 inches, and cut the yarn.

-Thread tail through yarn needle

-Wind the work into a circle, forming a flower.

-When formed turn the work over.

-Use yarn needle to connect from back to front the layers of the flower.

-When the flower is secure tie the two loose pieces of yarn together and cut the long ends.

OTHER BOOKS BY THIS AUTHOR

Please visit http://goo.gl/vBmocd to discover other books by Laura King.

United Kingdom Readers Please Visit: http://goo.gl/XhRaKt

“Crochet Stitches For Intermediates”

“Crochet Techniques For Intermediates”

“Crochet Guide For Intermediates”