Crochet Guide For Intermediates
Author: Long, Kathy
Date: 2015-03-01T05:00:00+00:00

Table of Contents

Chapter 1: Introduction To Intermediate Crochet

Chapter 2: Review of Basic Stitches

Chapter 2: Selecting Hooks, Yarns and Such

Chapter 3: Intermediate Stitches

Chapter 4: Reading Patterns, Getting Gauge and Keeping It!

Chapter 5: Shaping and Caring for Your Project

Chapter 6: Finishing Techniques

Chapter 7: Embellishing Your Work

Chapter 8: Adding Borders

Chapter 9: What Is Tapestry Crochet?

Chapter 10: Patterns

Chapter 11: Storage

Chapter 12: Summary, Hints and Final Thoughts

Crochet Guide For Intermediates

Kathy Long

(2015)

Crochet Guide For Intermediates

By

Kathy Long

Copyright © 2013 by Kathy Long

All rights reserved.

This publication is protected under the copyright laws of the United States of America. No part of this work may be used, reproduced, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, and faxing, or by any information storage and retrieval system by anyone but the purchaser for their own personal use.

This book may not be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of Kathy Long, except in the case of a reviewer who wishes to quote brief passages for the sake of a review written for inclusions in a magazine, newspaper, or journal—and these cases require written permission from Kathy Long prior to publication. Any reproduction or other unauthorized use of the material or artwork herein is prohibited without the express written permission of the author.

Although the author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information in this publication was correct at press time, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.

OTHER BOOKS BY THIS AUTHOR

Please visit http://goo.gl/oXB4dY to discover other books by Kathy Long.

United Kingdom Readers Please Visit: http://goo.gl/LYwmHl

“Crochet Guide For Beginners”

“Crochet Guide For Intermediates”

“Crochet Patterns: The Easy Way”

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Preface

Chapter 1: Introduction To Intermediate Crochet

Chapter 2: Review of Basic Stitches

Chapter 2: Selecting Hooks, Yarns and Such

Chapter 3: Intermediate Stitches

Chapter 4: Reading Patterns, Getting Gauge and Keeping It!

Chapter 5: Shaping and Caring for Your Project

Chapter 6: Finishing Techniques

Chapter 7: Embellishing Your Work

Chapter 8: Adding Borders

Chapter 9: What Is Tapestry Crochet?

Chapter 10: Patterns

Chapter 11: Storage

Chapter 12: Summary, Hints and Final Thoughts

Other Books by This Author

Additional Resources

PREFACE

Many years ago, a series of books were published that expounded on the traditions, arts and overall life of those living in the Appalachia. It was the Foxfire series. And, for those of you who don't know where the Appalachia is, it is the section of the United States that spans from New England into North Georgia. Yep, the Appalachian Trail rings a bell doesn't it? In those books, students from a private school in Northeast Georgia, Rabun Gap - Nachoochee School to be exact, went in search of the mountain folk....those of the Appalachia....mostly those of the Irish descent...to ask them how they survived, lived and flourished. What they learned, much to their surprise, was that providing for their families, making things out of available goods and living a good life was what it was all about. They learned of making the only musical instrument that is native to this country, the dulcimer. They learned about hand-hewn logs for making just about anything they needed made of wood. But also among those learned traditions was needle-art, including but not limited to crocheting.

While I do not come from that group of people (except maybe the Irish portion) interviewed by these students, I can relate to the concept. Coming from the South and a time when family was more important that watching the latest and most popular sitcom, I can remember sitting at my grandmother's knee as she rocked back and forth crocheting to the rhythm of her rocking all the while showing me how to crochet at a very young age. I really don't believe that my grandmother could have crocheted quite as well if she hadn't been in her rocker! As a child I recall thinking that winding my grandmother's threads and yarns into balls was really cool! And she had such really neat stuff in her crochet basket; hairpin lace shuttles, tatting shuttles, tapestry needles in little glass vials, and what I thought was a gazillion crochet hooks. It's no wonder that my interest in the needle-arts became such a passion. My very first project was the infamous granny square. I made my first small afghan at about 8 years of age from my grandmothers' scraps. As I grew older, she showed me more and more about crocheting and needle arts in general. The first time I made Hairpin Lace, I was thrilled at how I could take that tiny thread and shuttle, with a crochet hook, and make all that lovely lace. I still have a trunk full of needle-art magazines and directions dating back to the 1920's that my grandmother, and mother, used for making everything from household items to clothing. Looking back through those books is a trip through history, as it helps one to understand that making things for your family was a way of life. It wasn't just about cooking, cleaning and such; it was about providing your family with those little extras that, in those days, most could not afford.

Crocheting through the years has evolved, which is obvious by looking at today's books and catalogs. We all started as beginners, just little novices in a world of hooks and yarns. But working our way through that forest of choices, we have grown and evolved, just as did crochet. We are a part of that evolution and with each passing year, it's our work and creations that keep it alive and in the hearts and homes of people just like you. Remember that no matter what skill level you achieve, sharing that knowledge with your family and children will be an experience that will stay with them for a lifetime. Imagine what it would be like today, if no one had done that centuries ago? What a wonderful experience we would be missing indeed!

CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION TO INTERMEDIATE CROCHET

Crocheting obviously began long before those days of the folks in Appalachia and as all needle-art is timeless, passed on through the generations of how to take an ordinary thread and by looping it over a hooked needle, transform it into something wonderfully magnificent. From delicate laces (including Irish crochet, or linen lace) for attaching to either clothing or household articles, to clothing and much, much more. It's no wonder that according to the website www.crochet.org, the Crochet Guild of America (CGOA) notes that modern crochet as we know it was developed in the 16th century thus continuing to have a long line of evolution down to today.

In this book, we won't be making Hairpin Lace or Irish Linen Lace, but we will concentrate on the intermediate level crochet style. Basic stitches are just that; chain stitches, slip stitch, double and/or treble stitch are usually in a simple basic application, such as making a granny afghan square. Intermediate crocheting will carry you into a new variety of stitches and patterns in your work. We will give you an introduction to a few fun stitches to learn, such as the Afghan Stitch or Tunisian, Shell, Popcorn, Lover's Knot, Tapestry and even a brief discussion of Irish Lace. Utilizing the intermediate stitches, you will discover how changing stitches, media and style throughout your work will allow you to create more detail, such as a lacy look or just simply a pattern effect. There are various types of crochet, determined by what you desire to accomplish. From heavier yarns and fabrics to super-fine threads, the selections are unending. Choosing the proper size hook for your project is also dependent on the media and item you have chosen to make.

Consider all the things you can make for you, your family, and your home. Nothing can beat that feeling of accomplishment that you have when you have completed your project. You will have completed a project using methods that existed hundreds, possibly thousands, of years ago. A project using your hands, a hook, threads or yarn and a pattern or an impression of what can be. Your options are endless in that respect!

CHAPTER 2: REVIEW OF BASIC STITCHES

So, you are ready for more advanced, or intermediate, crochet. Hopefully, once you have become comfortable with these few stitches, your limitations of crochet are over. These are the basics; everything else is just a variation of the simple. Basic crochet stitches are simple enough for a child to learn and at very early age. All they need is a little determination, a little coordination, and the drive to make it happen. If you can accomplish these few tasks, you will be moving onto the Intermediate level quickly. (These instructions are assuming you are right-handed.)

CHAIN STITCH (CH)

This is the base of all crochet. First, make a slip-knot, and then grasp it in your left hand. The knot should be facing you at this point. Secure the tail of the yarn with your thumb so that it is directly below the slip knot. Assuming that the yarn that is coming directly from the ball, it should flow over your index finger. You will then use your middle finger, fourth finger, and pinkie to manipulate the yarn as you crochet. (And just a note from experience; you don't have to make a ball out of your yarn, as most yarns come in pull-skeins. However, pull-skeins often get to a point of knotting and may cause you to alter your tension as you pull yarn. Pulling from a ball will give you a more even tension and flow of yarn.)The crochet hook should face upwards once entered in the slip knot. You will rotate it by a one-quarter turn counterclockwise with each chain stitch that you crochet. You should make each motion as precise and fluid as possible. While the crochet hook is still inside the slip knot, slide the hook in between your yarn and the index finger on your left hand. Rotate your crochet hook by about one quarter turn counterclockwise, and use your middle finger, fourth finger, and pinkie to help you manipulate the yarn so that you can easily grab it with the crochet hook. Then, simply draw the yarn through the slip knot. To make another chain stitch, insert the hook again into another loop and draw it through. Repeat as many times as necessary. You should guide the chain stitches in a downward motion as you crochet. As everybody crochets differently, you may find that holding your work and your hook differently is more comfortable.

SLIP STITCH (SL ST)

These are the simplest of all. Slip stitches are just that. Assume you chain five stitches and need to join. You slip stitch! Here's how. Chain five, insert your hook into the first stitch and yarn over. Pull that loop through both loops on your hook. That's a slip stitch! If you have ever made a granny square, this is where you started! Oops...it's so easy, how can you go wrong!

SINGLE CROCHET (SC)

This is undoubtedly the easiest of all stitches to master, and the one you will probably use most often! Almost all crocheting is dependent on knowing this one stitch. It's simple. Make your foundation chain to whatever length you desire. Insert your hook into the previous stitch. Depending on the effect you want, you can select the front, back or both of the stitches, then just follow the same thing you did with the chain. Yarn over hook and draw through the loops. You now should have two loops on your hook. Yarn over the hook and draw through both. Continue to the end of your work and turn. This line of work should take the appearance of a chain stitch. This is one of the stitches you will use most in learning Tapestry Crochet, so practice well.

DOUBLE (DC) AND TREBLE CROCHET (TR)

They sound complicated, but aren't. For double crochet, you have created your chain and IF you are beginning with double crochet, will yarn over your hook once, then insert in the second chain from the hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through. Yarn over again and pull through two loops on your hook. Yarn over again and pull through the remaining two loops. Treble is similar to double. If you are starting with a chain, the first four chains will be the first treble stitch and you will begin with the fifth chain to create the next treble. You will yarn over twice (three loops on your hook), then insert into the chain, yarn over and pull this loop through the chain loop. You should have four loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through two loops; yarn over and pull through two loops; yarn over and pull through two loops. You have just created your first treble stitch. Combinations of these stitches form the intermediate forms of crocheting. But what about selecting the yarn and hook for your project?

CHAPTER 2: SELECTING HOOKS, YARNS AND SUCH

Crochet hooks vary in shape, size, color and type. But, let's just concentrate on the important part here – size and type. Types include: Steel, Aluminum, Plastic, Bamboo and Tunisian (or afghan hook). You can't miss the afghan hook as it looks like a knitting needle with a hook on the end. Determining the size is often dependent on the type of hook but can also vary according to the brand and country of origin. Just make note that the basic size of a hook is determined by the diameter of the shaft, which creates the size of the stitches.

Please note that these two hooks are widely recognized needle-art manufacturers and are not 'off-brands'. While the hooks shown in these two photos represent the same in size, there are obvious differences which you may want to consider. Just make sure that if you are working a piece that requires a change from one hook to another and back, you use the same hook you began with for your work. It will make a difference in your finished project.

Most steel hooks are smaller and are generally known as 'thread' hooks being used primarily for making a lacy effect. Steel hooks are number based meaning the larger the number, the smaller the hook. Hooks made in the U.S. use a lettering system, meaning that the higher the letter in the alphabet, the bigger the hook.

There's much to choose from regarding the hook, but don't despair. The yarn companies feel your pain and help you along by giving you a selected hook size based on a gauge, such as '6 stitches = 1 inch would use a Size G hook.' We'll discuss gauge more as we get into reading patterns later.

But, moving on to the yarns, consider this. For the novice crocheter, going to the yarn aisle of any needle-art store can be an overwhelming experience, even scary. There are so many selections, types, colors, textures and skein sizes, where do you being? But, you aren't a novice anymore and in working with intermediate crochet, it is definitely time for you to become more educated in your knowledge of yarns and their standards. Crochet yarns are generally made from Cotton, Wool or Polyester, and in today's' market there are many natural handmade fibers at your disposal. They also range in sizes from a very fine thread (used for lace making) to the bulky, heavy sweater weight. You can also choose a single thread; two or 4 ply yarns for your project. There are various names for these different weights – Lace, Fingering, Sport, Light Worsted, Worsted or Chunky – so becoming familiar with each of these is to your advantage when selecting the right yarn. Your project pattern should give you the recommended brand, weight, quantity and hook size for a project. Should you decide to use a different brand, just consider the weight factor, as this may alter your gauge.

Another point of consideration is that of dye lots. Some yarns and threads will not specify a dye lot and are usually a natural fiber, in which case, you're usually good to go. But, unless you are crocheting something where the colors don't really matter to you, such as a granny square or ripple afghan, be sure to get all the same dye lot! For example: Color #1 Dye Lot 2001 may look like Color #1 Dye Lot #2002 when compared side by side, but when worked into a project, they may take on a whole different appearance. Avoid making a time, and money, consuming mistake. Buy enough the first time, buy extra. You can always return the excess.

Again, the yarn companies have compassion for you and offer cute little pictures to help you make your decisions, as well as the dye lot numbers and yarn weights. But, if you have further questions or concerns about yarns and reading their labels, check with the manufacturer or use this site, http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/label.html, for further explanations and details.

But, don't forget that there are many other things that can be made by crochet. Rugs, coverlets, curtains and such can be made utilizing thread, yarns and/or fabrics. The use of fabrics today is definitely a secondary consideration for most people, but it is definitely something that should be seriously considered. We live in a society today where recycling is of the utmost importance for many. Not only can you use discarded fabrics, but you can purchase small lots of fabrics to create some great designs for your home. From rag rugs, placemats, and chair seats to vest, jackets and hats. Fabrics can be crocheted into so many various projects, it's unending!

As you can see, there is much more to selecting your hooks and 'yarns'. It is the combinations of hooks, yarns and stitches that make your project unique and uniquely you. Experiment with various hooks and yarns, and stitches to find what's right for you and have fun with them! And don't be afraid of the yarn aisle!

CHAPTER 3: INTERMEDIATE STITCHES

As discussed previously, intermediate crochet stitches are a variation of basic crochet. You will find that the more you work with these stitches; you will learn the best applications for each stitch. Meanwhile, here are a few select common intermediate stitches as promised in our earlier chapter. These require practice to perfect, so be patient and give yourself time and space to learn.

AFGHAN STITCH (TUNISIAN STITCH)

Wonderful stitch for just what it's called – the afghan stitch. However, with this stitch you can easily make articles of clothing such as vests, sweaters, shawls, scarves or just about anything that needs a full cover like a knitted item would require. Years ago, this stitch was referred to as crochet knitting because of its finished appearance and the variance of the needle.

This is usually done on a hook referred to as an AFGHAN HOOK, which looks like a long knitting needle with a hook on one end and capped on the other. Create a chain for your desired length, then insert the hook into the 2nd chain (ch) from the hook, yarn over (yo) and pull through. You now have two loops on the hook. Proceed to the end of your row in similar manner. Some refer to this as the 'forward pass'.

Unlike other crochet stitches, you will not be turning your work with the afghan stitch. Begin your 'return pass' by yarn over (yo) and pull through the first loop. Next, yarn over (yo) and pull through two loops at a time all the way to the end of the row.

Take a close look at the base that you just crocheted. You will see that it gives the appearance of vertical bars. To begin your next 'forward pass', insert your hook into the 2nd vertical bar from the hook, yarn over (yo) and pull the loop through. Continue across to the end.

Repeat this same procedure on the 'return pass'. As you continue working in this fashion, you will notice the pattern and uniformity to your work. While this is not among the 'basic' stitches I listed, it definitely is one that you will want to experiment with for a variety of projects.

SHELL STITCH

Just about everything crochet uses this stitch somewhere in its' pattern. Great stitch for scarves, shawls, hat and whatever else you can think of in crochet. Shell stitches give the opportunity to create, and make it easier for increasing and decreasing a project. Variations of the shell can create corners, borders, edgings and entire pieces of nothing but the shell stitch. Once you master these, your opportunities are endless!

Create your chain however long you wish. Generally if you are just starting a shell stitch, you will insert your hook into the 1st chain (ch) from the hook with a single crochet. Skip the next 2 stitches (st) then make a double crochet (dc) in the next stitch (st). Make 4 more dc in the same st. Skip 2 ch stitches and make a sc in the 3rd. Repeat along the length of your chain creating more shells as needed.

LOVER'S KNOT STITCH

Now you know why they call it the lover's knot! A wonderfully lacy effect great for scarves, shawls and hats. In the mood for sure! Make those frilly, lacy shawls and scarves for gifts or for yourself. Delicate and feminine, the Lover's Knot is a beauty and will please you for years to come.

To make one knot, make a slip knot on the hook. *Pull a loop on the hook to about 1/2” to 1”. Yarn over (yo) this creates an elongated chain stitch. Single crochet (sc) in back of the ridge of the chain stitch (ch). Repeat from * to make a love knot stitch.

POPCORN STITCH

A great embellishment to a hat, handbag, shawl or scarf. This can be also added to afghans, pillows and other household items for added eye appeal.

A bit complicated, but the popcorn stitch is generally comprised of 5 double crochets (dc). To begin, work 5 double crochet (dc) in the stitch or space indicated. In the last dc completed, pull up the thread (yarn) and drop loop, then insert the hook into the top of the first dc that was made in the group and through the dropped loop on the last DC made. Hood and pull dropped loop through the first dc; ch 1 to complete.

TAPESTRY STITCH

This is a unique form of crochet will be discussed later in Chapter 9, as well as a simpler pattern in Chapter 10 for you to practice.

This is a basic stitch, but utilizes the carrying and dropping of at least one additional thread throughout the piece to create the tapestry look. It can be done with either the single crochet, double crochet or treble crochet. It is also much easier for a beginning tapestry crocheter to attempt using patterns that will not have to be turned, meaning you will be able to continue crocheting in the same direction. Learning this easier way will allow you to 'get the feel' of it while understanding the methods involved and give you a better comfort level for more intricate projects. True, it can be complicated, but will give you a lovely finished piece. Suitable for clothing or household use.

IRISH CROCHET OR LINEN LACE

The reason I have included this style in the Intermediate grouping is that after the previous mentioning of Irish Crochet, it seems quite unfair not to include something about it in this section as well. First, and foremost, let me explain that contrary to popular opinions, Filet Crochet and Irish Crochet are two different things.

Irish crochet is a type of lace that had it's beginnings during the great potato famine of the 1840's. Groups began to teach this, and tatting, to those in need which allowed them a way to provide a living to their families as this type of lace was highly sought by the upper class of the day. The lace itself is characterized by individual designs or motifs which were later assembled into a background of mesh. Unlike 'filet crochet', which is a grid-like crochet and really quite clunky, Irish crochet is much more lacy and delicate.

There are really no specific stitches for Irish crochet, as it is a combination of all the basic stitches which evolve into a magnificently designed creation of pure beauty. Perhaps this concept can be explored at a later date. Meanwhile, know the differences, and consider learning it in the near future.

There are many, many more stitches available for use, but we have only covered a select few in this book. From the basics to the intermediates, these are the most commonly used and should provide you with a well rounded selection of stitches and overall knowledge.

Practice, practice, practice. Crochet it, pull it out, crochet it, and pull it out. That's how we all really learn. The more we work the stitches, the better we get, the neater we get, the more confident we get. Don't give up as it is like a sport. No pain, no gain! But, once you have it, it's yours and yours forever, as you'll never forget it. You may get sluggish, but you won't forget!

CHAPTER 4: READING PATTERNS, GETTING GAUGE AND KEEPING IT!

READING PATTERNS

To many inexperienced crocheters, reading patterns is probably the scariest of all aspects of crocheting. One of the first things you need to do is have a good understanding of the abbreviations that you will see throughout the pattern. They aren't really hard to learn and with just a little thought, you'll be a pro in no time. Study the chart below for some of the more basic and intermediate stitch abbreviation:

* - repeat the instructions, or steps, from the asterisk however many times the pattern indicates, or it can mean to repeat the instructions between two asterisks.

( ) - repeat instructions, or steps, within the brackets.

[ ] - repeat instructions, or steps, within the brackets.

Should you come across other abbreviations not listed here, by all means do an internet search, where you will find lots of information regarding various stitches and applications.

Once you have learned the abbreviations. It's really easy. Just don't panic and be sure to pay attention to details. Most crochet is repetitive, so just make sure you count stitches, rows, cluster or whatever you are instructed, correctly. If you are relatively new to crochet, and want to take this step to an intermediate style, keep your list of abbreviations handy for reference.

And, if you think you've made a mistake, there is no shame in pulling your work apart to the possible error and correcting it NOW. An early mistake left unchecked will cause you problems later. And, just remember that an intermediate crochet pattern is probably more detailed and challenging that a beginner but will be less than such to an advanced crocheter.

GETTING GAUGE AND KEEPING IT!

Getting and keeping gauge is probably the hardest thing you will learn to do. There are several things that you must learn to do PRIOR to beginning your project.

-Note the recommended hook and yarn on the pattern.

-Verify the same information on the yarn package.

-Keep a dressmakers measure handy to check your tension (gauge)

-Adjust your tension (gauge) accordingly. (Tension is how tightly you are crocheting.)

Another word of caution: I mentioned earlier that winding your yarn into a ball would make keeping your tension and gauge easier. Letting the ball roll and flip freely as you crochet will keep you from pulling and tugging on the pull-skeins, which will alter your tension on your work. By all means, you want to relax! If you are upset when you sit down to crochet, crochet something that you really don't care about because your stress and tensions will take over and your crocheting will be uneven and completely out of gauge. It's easy to get tense and tighten up on your crocheting if you are stressed. If you are the kind of person who can let it go and you are doing it for fun and relaxation, let it flow and go with it!

In the examples shown below, my beginning gauge was 4 stitches per inch. I began correctly, but lost a bit in the middle due to tensing up on my yarns. As this example was in tapestry crochet, I had been pulling too tightly on my carry thread, causing the increase in tension. I loosen up my grip, and regained my gauge upon completion.

CHAPTER 5: SHAPING AND CARING FOR YOUR PROJECT

SHAPING AND CARE

There is shaping and there is blocking. Blocking is used for shaping fine thread crocheting such as doilies, lace, collars, etc. Taking the completed piece, generally made of cotton, it is placed in a diluted solution of starch, wrung out well to remove excess moisture and pinned on a board from each point or tip of the crochet to achieve the desired shape. Once dry, you can remove your piece from the board and will be slightly stiff and well-shaped. All of those lovely lacy doilies that were on your grandmother's tables and chair backs were done this way.

Blocking of items such as sweaters, vests, scarves and any other clothing can be done as well without the use of the starch solution. But, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, always read and keep the label from your yarns as they will tell you how to launder your finished piece. Next, once you have washed your piece according to the instructions (probably not in the washing machine), wring it in a towel to absorb any additional moisture and then lay flat on a dry towel. And above all, never put a handmade item in the dryer. Dryers do horrible things to a handmade piece and you have spent too much time, effort and love in your creation. Don't destroy it. And, another thought, never use hangers and never iron! You may steam, but don't iron.

Shaping is normally that which occurs during the actual crocheting of the piece when done with heavier threads or yarns by means of increasing or decreasing the stitches and/or patterns. When dealing with wearable as hats, scarves, sweaters, and such, learning when to increase and decrease becomes invaluable. For instance, you can decrease the number of stitches on a row on either end of a piece and continue this process to only one stitch if you wish. You can also mix types of stitches to create increasing and decreasing effects, such as start with a few single crochets and then move to half-double crochet, to double crochet and reverse this trend to give a different effect. Add more of these type rows will give you a cupped look, similar to a cap sleeve.

Paying strict attention to the details and gauge of your pattern with help you to keep the designated shape of your project within reason. Besides, one of the simplest ways to shape your project can often be a warm steam iron and a light steaming of your project.

JOINING YARNS

Learn to do this without knots for a more seamless and unnoticeable connection! The temptation to tie knots will come back to haunt you in your work, knots come loose and of course you cut the ends off way too short or it just looks completely unprofessional. Other than joining yarn at the end of the row, the easiest and most efficient way of joining yarns is to cut the original color end at about 4”-6” from the hook. Take your new color and hold side by side the original color. Holding the cut end secure of the original color, make one to three stitches carrying the new yarn (whichever one you happen to be working on at the time) to secure the new color. Drop the original color and continue crocheting with the new color. You have two choices at this point. You can either leave the loose end dangling inside your finished piece or weave it into the backside of the piece.

When you get into working Tapestry, you will learn additional methods of changing colors by carrying the additional colors and dropping others. While it is a bit more complicated, it is a very efficient way of working with color. Making a few stitches, usually 2-3 prior to actual changing, then just holding the yarn along the prior row and over-stitching.

It creates a totally seamless, and knotless, form of yarns blending.

CHAPTER 6: FINISHING TECHNIQUES

Finishing your work has several different ways to put the final touches on your work. Depending on your taste, this can be anything from just a nice, simple finish to a fancy border or trim. Just remember that how you finish your project can make the difference between a professional looking project and an homemade one.

Completing your work, or begging off (bo), is simple. End your work by pulling the end of the yarn through the last loop on your hook. Pull through long enough to allow a nice weave into the backside of your work. This weaving can be done with either a tapestry needle (a larger needle with a blunt end and large eye) or a smaller crochet hook. You'll take the bitter end of the yarn (the long, loose end) and literally weave it into the finished project. Begin by inserting the needle or hook underneath several stitches and pulling the end through. Next you will want to double back, making it harder for the yarn to come loose. Others prefer to have nice finished edges with trim.

There are a variety of trim that can be used, depending on your project application. Often, just a simple finish slip stitch or single crochet row gives a nice, clean finish to your project.

Depending your project, there are additional ways of joining pieces together using a slip stitch for a seamless look. Place the pieces side by side and pick up the back two loops with your hook. Make a slip stitch on your hook, yarn over and pull through all three loops. Continue working the back two loops along the length of the desired piece. This will give you a very smooth and non-stretch finish to your seam. Side seams of sweaters and tops can be done this way as well as individual pieces for afghans. It's a little slower working, but produces a great finished look for your project.

Often, the trim for finishing a garment can be something as simple as the single crochet along the outer edges. It creates a crisp, clean finish worthy of your good works!

CHAPTER 7: EMBELLISHING YOUR WORK

Embellishments are those adorable pieces that can be added to your crocheted creations to add that little extra touch! Whether you use tiny or large flowers, bows, ribbons, bugs, hearts or whatever, it's entirely up to you and your taste. Depending on your piece, lace trims make great additions as well.

Before proceeding, let's make note the difference between appliqués and appliquéing. An appliqué is an object (in this case, crocheted) that is to be applied to the surface of your project. Appliquéing, is the process of attached the appliqué. Appliqués, or embellishments, can be attached by sewing, gluing or crocheting into the project. Ribbons can be woven into the openings of the crochet pattern, especially when utilizing half-double to treble crochet in your work.

Crocheted embellishments can be made of everything from fine crochet threads, embroidery floss and yarns, depending on the effect you desire. Obviously, the finer the threads, the more delicate the piece, so take this into serious consideration. If you are using flowers, consider clustering together several flowers for a statement or a single for an accent.

Whatever you decide to try, keep laundering in mind. If your piece will be laundered regularly, consider attaching the appliqué with tiny safely pins for easy removal, as the appliqués will not launder well attached to the piece, and may need blocked once washed. The same with ribbons, as most ribbons do not launder well at all.

These are lovely examples of Irish Crochet that will add an elegant and delightful touch to your creations. You may recognize the effect as Irish Crochet is extremely popular with brides for adorning their dresses, veils and trains. Certainly these beauties would never be tossed in the washer, nor exposed to the dryer. Experiment with various types of borders, trims and embellishments to bring out your own personality in your projects.

CHAPTER 8: ADDING BORDERS

As noted earlier in the brief history of crocheting, it is a timeless art that has been passed down through the centuries. Whether for gift giving or home use, making beautiful borders for the homemade piece was a way of life. From simple to elaborate, each was unique to the piece and well thought out by the crocheter. Simple crochet stitches can be simple borders. Adding picots to those simple stitches give them that added depth. Often, finishing the edge of a piece with a single crochet or slip stitch is sufficient, but if you want your piece to 'POP!', add a border.

There are so many borders available for use, along with various other types of embellishments to give that perfect finish. Follow these directions for a simple and lovely border suitable for almost any application. The following are several of the favorites that my grandmother kept in her collection for everyday uses:

-Make ch 14. The insertion part is 2 tr, *ch 3, sk 3, 2 tr, repeat from * once, ch 3, turn. At the end of the 4th row, the scallop is started by working over the outer tr of the 2nd row, * 2 ch, 2 tr, repeat twice, then ch 2, s st at the base of tr of 1st row, ch 3, turn * p (the 3 ch just made), 2 s st, repeat 6 times, then make 4 rows of insertion and so continue.

While the pattern calls for the repetitive steps at the beginning, you could crochet only one portion, and create a narrower design, or just use the shell as a border. Remember that often a pattern using repetitive statements which can be broken down for individual use. Use your imagination and skill to make them work how you want....not always how they are designed.

Here are a few more borders for your selections:

-Make a ch the length desired. Work a s st in each chain. 2d row – Ch5, sk 2 sts, s st in next st, repeat. 3D Row- *S st in 3d of 5ch in 2d row. In 3d ch of next 5 ch work 8 tr. Repeat from *

-Ch 23, sk 3, tr in 4th ch, ch 2, sk 2 ch, tr in each of next 2, ch 7, sk 7 ch, tr in next ch, sk 2, ch 2, tr in each of next 2 ch, ch 3 turn. The second row is the reverse of the 1st, that is, tr over tr, and ch over ch. 3D row – is like the 1st except that instead of 7 ch, make 3 ch, s st over 7 chs of 1st and 2d rows, ch 3. these three rows are repeated for the insertion. The scallop is started at the end of the 7th row. Ch , s st in tr of the 5th row, ch 1, turn. 8th Row – 13 s st over the 5 ch, insertion. 9th row – Insertion, *ch 2, tr in 2d s st, repeat 5 times, ch 2, s st in tr of 3d row, ch 1 turn. 10th row – 3 s st over each ch, s st over each tr, insertion. 11th row – Insertion, s st over s st, taking up back thread of each st, 3 s st along side of insertion, ch 2, turn. 12th row - * Tr in 2d st, ch 2, repeat around scallop, and continue for length desired. The edge is worked last. 3 s st over ch,p over tr, for length.

These lovely lace borders were taken from some of my grandmother's collections of trims. Taking a basic border pattern and being creative with it will give you options you never imagined. That is what is so wonderful about crochet. There really are not boundaries, only borders. And those borders can be attached to a piece by either a slip stitch or using a needle, again depending on the type of thread/yarn you have used.

CHAPTER 9: WHAT IS TAPESTRY CROCHET?

Tapestry crochet is also known as HARD CROCHET, not necessarily because it's that hard...but due to the finish it gives. Due to the technique, it gives a harder feel and appearance to almost any other form of crochet. Tapestry crochet is a form of crochet which utilizes various yarns to create a variety of motifs on crocheted pieces. The most common stitch to use is the single crochet, but it is not uncommon to see half-double, double and treble stitches used. Whichever stitch is chosen, the additional colors are carried throughout the piece, usually within the crochet itself so they can be picked up or dropped easily as needed.

Historically, tapestry crochet has been utilized by peoples from Guatemala to Africa, where certain patterns and designs are used to designate social position or ethnic affiliations. Tapestry crochet is also used for creating everyday items from household uses to hacky-sacks for kids. Finished tapestry crochet gives the overall appearance of a fine woven tapestry piece. Embellishments can be added in the form of additional colors, motifs or even beading.

While the basic stitches of Tapestry crochet are easy, this style crochet does take practice and coordination, which is why it is considered an intermediate form of crochet. You will experience a few confusing moments while learning this form, such as how to handle at least two colors of thread/yarn at a time, which ones you will be picking up or dropping, counting and following a chart for the design and the twisting of the thread/yarn. Another consideration of Tapestry crochet is that often the work has to be turned, changing your pattern somewhat. If you can work your pattern around, staying in one direction, you will find it easier to control your design. It can definitely be a frustrating form of crochet, but is also well worth the effort to learn if you want to design and create something out of the ordinary.

CHAPTER 10: PATTERNS

YOUTH'S TAPESTRY COIN NECKLACE/PURSE

Finished Size: 3.25” x 3.25” not including the strap

Materials: 2 colors of your choice. This pattern was done with Bernat Cotton-ish.

Hook: Susan Bates size G/6

Gauge: 4 stitches = 1”

This pattern will be worked around, not back and forth.

Row 1: Ch 12, insert hook into the 2nd chain from the hook and sc back to the beg of the ch. In the last ch stitch of the row, sc 2 more stitches making 13 stitches total. DO NOT TURN, instead, continue around for another 11 stitches, make 2 sc in last and sl st together. 26 stitches total.

Row 2: Pull a long tail for the 2nd color and beg working this into your pattern. Holding onto the 2nd color tail, work sc around the row, adding 1 additional sc on each end. You will only carry the 2nd color on this row. 28 stitches.

Row 3: Beg with 2nd color, *make 2 sc, alternate back to 1st color and make 5 sc. Repeat from * to the end.

Row 4: Repeat as before with 3 sc - 2nd color, and 4 sc - 1st color. Repeat to end.

Row 5: Repeat as before with 4 sc - 2nd color, and 3 sc - 1st color. Repeat to end.

Row 6 & 7: Sc both rows of the 2nd color.

Row 8: Beg with 1st color, *make 2 sc, alternate back to 2nd color and make 5 sc. Repeat from * to the end.

Row 9: Repeat as before with 3 sc - 1st color, and 4 sc - 2nd color. Repeat to end.

Row 10: Repeat as before with 4 sc - 1st color, and 3 sc - 2nd color. Repeat to end.

Row 11: Sc a row of 1st color.

Row 12 & 13: Hdc both rows of the 1st color.

To finish ch 110 for the strap. Attach to opposite side and sc back, turn and sc back to the other side, tie off. Steam to shape. Use snaps or Velcro for closure.

Variations – On the beginning chain, you can increase your size at this point, but do so by increases of 6 ch at a time, otherwise you will need to rework the design. Additional rows will also give you the variety in size of the project, as will altering the handle. Experiment and have fun with it! The real beauty of tapestry crochet is the unique designs that the crafter creates. Allow yourself to experiment with various colors and designs. This is a simple piece, but can give you some great experience to draw from for future projects.

LADIES CAP (MODERN BEANIE)

Finished Size: Fits the average adult. Reduce pattern as needed for smaller sizes.

Materials: 1 color of 4 ply worsted weight yarn. Approx. ¼ skein.

Hook: Susan Bates size H/8

Gauge: 3 stitches = 1”

Row 1: Ch 10, sl st together to form a ring. Sc in each stitch to end of row, forming 10 sc and join with sl st.

Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in next sc. *1 sc, 3 dc in next sc, 1 sc. Follow from * around, join with sl st in top of the ch 3.

Row 3: Sl st in top of next two dc. Ch 3, 4 dc in sp, *ch 2, 5 dc in next sp. Continue from * to end of row ending with sl st in top of the ch 3.

Row 4: Sl st in top of next three dc. Ch 3, 5 dc in sp, * ch 2, 6 dc in next sp. Continue from * to end of row ending with sl st in top of the ch 3.

Row 5: Ch 1. Sc in top of each st around, join with sl st.

Row 6: Ch 2. Hdc in top of each st around, join with sl st.

Row 7: Ch 3. Dc in top of each st around, join with sl st.

Row 8: Ch 1. Sc in top of each st around, join with sl st.

Row 9: Repeat row 6.

Row 10: Repeat row 7.

Row 11 – 12: Ch 4. Tr in top of each st around, join with sl st.

Row 13: Sc around entire last row to create the finish edge. Weave the bitter end into the existing rows for a finished look. Steam and/or block as needed. Total stitches on this last row should be 65.

CHAPTER 11: STORAGE

I have pieces of crochet that were made for me as an infant ranging from beautiful, lacy afghans to an elaborate handmade christening gown with a train of hairpin lace. Not to mention my age, but that was several decades ago! I still have many things that my grandmother had as a younger girl too. The reason I still have these is because they were stored properly and kept that way. My hopes, as I have gotten older, are that the dress will ultimately be placed in a framed box for me to pass on to the family, still in its perfect condition. My hopes also, are that those who get my treasures in future years will care for them as much as I, or my mother and grandmother did.

But, today, most don't know how to care for their own handmade treasures, let alone those they have inherited. It's not hard. Take the time to learn what destroys fabrics, threads and yarns. Ultraviolet rays are notorious for destroying all three. While many homes today are blessed with windows that help filter out the UV rays, they still get through and it doesn't take much to break these treasures down, especially the older ones. Therefore, the first rule is to never put away or display a piece in a sunny area. Next, is being sure it is clean and never stored in a soiled condition. If you are storing pieces for a long time, place them in a plastic bag. Those nice kitchen air tight sealer's have their advantage in this respect! If you have a cedar chest, place them in it. If not, invest in a nice reasonably airtight container for storage.

When dealing with afghans put these away in a clean, plastic bag. Utilize either the cedar chest or the air tight storage to protect them. And, if you have crocheted anything out of wool, consider the problem of moths when storing. While most people hate moth balls (not to mention their not that easy to find today) cedar chests, planks and chips are readily available and will deter moths and silverfish.

CHAPTER 12: SUMMARY, HINTS AND FINAL THOUGHTS

We've discussed the origins of crochet, the evolving of crochet and the versatility of crochet. It is by all means the easiest and quickest of the needle-arts for people to learn and utilize. Learning the additional stitches and methods will only enhance your abilities and encourage you to take the initiative to explore those new horizons. Hopefully, you have learned the differences between thread, yarns and hooks and what to do if you still have problems. We even mentioned the use of fabrics, which is a great thing considering the recycling trends of the day. You have also been given additional information for shaping, sizing and keeping your lovely handmade items fresh and safe.

We no longer live under 'potato famines' or times when the women folk had to do handwork for survival. We do live in a time when knowing that you have the capabilities to do something with your hands, can give you a feeling of self-worth that nothing else can convey. I have recently read where many people took up the art of crochet simply to help with their depression. Seems quite logical really, when one realizes that crocheting allows you to become one with your work and yourself. You can simply withdraw into your work and let your cares go away for a while. Sounds like a winner to me! And, while we think of it, an ART it is! Crochet is expressionism in shape, design, style, color, application and whatever else one can imagine. Never consider crochet as just another 'hobby' as it's a part of you and who you are.

Another aspect of your learning to crochet to the best of your abilities is that you can pass this down to your children. Not just the girls either. There is nothing wrong with everyone learning it! Just think.....about 20 years ago there was a popular National Football League player who did beautiful needlepoint! Hey...who's going to argue with a 230 lb. guy doing needlepoint! It is expressionism at its best and is an escape from one's problems for a short time.

Teach your children. If we as a people, let this wonderful art die off in our century, what have we done! Children are the future and are like little sponges taking in the knowledge that we empower them with in their young lives. They want to learn, and prefer to learn something new almost every day, so give it to them. I'm sure in those days of the 1840's famine that families didn't have the time to really think about teaching their children, but they did out of love and necessity. We should do likewise today. It's about self-worth.

POINTERS IN REVIEW

-Remember to always check for gauge and keep it!

-Check your hooks and be sure that they are sufficient to achieve the proper gauge.

-Always buy enough of the same dye lot to complete your project, and that the proper yarn or threads will be to your advantage.

-Keep your abbreviation sheet handy until you are comfortable enough to fly solo.

-Do not feel bad if you have to take out work. Correcting your problem NOW is much better than waiting to see if it works out, only to finally realize that it didn't!

-Experiment with new stitches, threads, hooks and projects. It's an experience waiting to happen!

-Don't wash your project in the washing machine NOR dry in a dryer! Always lay flat, and if in doubt, refer to your yarn manufacturer for instructions for safe keeping of your project. Just remember the old saying “If in doubt, DON'T!”

-Never put a project away dirty. This allows any stain to set, which will be harder to remove, if it can be removed.

-Tapestry is challenging, but not impossible!

-Try something different!

-And teach it to someone, especially children. It will take time, and patience, but remember, someone probably taught you too! Not only will you be crocheting memories, you will be creating them as well. I remember my days of learning from my grandmother, and those are cherished memories to this day. So, take heed with everything you have learned here and get out there and make some memories happen!

OTHER BOOKS BY THIS AUTHOR

Please visit http://goo.gl/oXB4dY to discover other books by Kathy Long.

United Kingdom Readers Please Visit: http://goo.gl/LYwmHl

“Crochet Guide For Beginners”

“Crochet Guide For Intermediates”

“Crochet Patterns: The Easy Way”

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES
www.crochet.com – Great for basic stitches and information
www.crochet.org – Crochet Guild of America (CGOA)

www.crochetinsider.com – Basic stitches, information and helpful hints
www.tapestrycrochet.com – One of the best places for tapestry information.

You may find that by asking at your local yarns shops, you find that there are clubs in your area as well. Other crocheters are a wealth of information and experiences. Don't forget to check out the local libraries too! Many local libraries have older publications that you can either check out of make copies of patterns, should you desire to make that trip down memory lane for some great projects!