(2 BOOK BUNDLE) “Crochet Patterns For Beginners” & “Crochet Stitches For Beginners"
Author: Wright, Amy
Date: 2014-07-08T04:00:00+00:00
Publisher: Crochet Patterns

Table of Contents

Book 1: “Crochet Patterns For Beginners”

Chapter 1: Crochet Stitches – A Reference

Chapter 2: Beautiful Coaster

Chapter 3: Simple Dishcloth

Chapter 4: Scrubbie

Chapter 5: Let’s Get Colorful! (Part One)

Chapter 6: Let’s Get Colorful! (Part Two)

Chapter 7: Merry Team Spirit

Chapter 8: Beanie Hat

Chapter 9: Easy Scarf

Chapter 10: Flower Power One

Chapter 11: Flower Power Ultra

Book 2: “Crochet Stitches For Beginners”

Chapter 1: How to Use This Book

Chapter 2: How to Read the Patterns

Chapter 3: Glossary

Chapter 4: Basic Stitches

Chapter 5: Textured Patterns

Chapter 6: Open Patterns

Chapter 7: Motifs

Chapter 8: A Note About Difficulty Levels

(2 BOOK BUNDLE) “Crochet Patterns For Beginners” & “Crochet Stitches For Beginners"

Amy Wright

Crochet Patterns (2014)

2 Book Bundle

“Crochet Patterns For Beginners”

&

“Crochet Stitches For Beginners”

Copyright © 2013 by Amy Wright

All rights reserved.

This publication is protected under the copyright laws of the United States of America. No part of this work may be used, reproduced, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, and faxing, or by any information storage and retrieval system by anyone but the purchaser for their own personal use.

This book may not be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of Amy Wright, except in the case of a reviewer who wishes to quote brief passages for the sake of a review written for inclusions in a magazine, newspaper, or journal—and these cases require written permission from Amy Wright prior to publication. Any reproduction or other unauthorized use of the material or artwork herein is prohibited without the express written permission of the author.

Although the author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information in this publication was correct at press time, the author and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.

OTHER BOOKS BY THIS AUTHOR

Please visit http://goo.gl/1RbZ5Q to discover other books by Amy Wright.

United Kingdom Readers Please Visit: http://goo.gl/oxrQlM

“Crochet Patterns For Beginners”

“Crochet Stitches For Beginners”

“Learn How to Crochet Quick And Easy”

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Book 1: “Crochet Patterns For Beginners”

Preface

Chapter 1: Crochet Stitches – A Reference

Chapter 2: Beautiful Coaster

Chapter 3: Simple Dishcloth

Chapter 4: Scrubbie

Chapter 5: Let’s Get Colorful! (Part One)

Chapter 6: Let’s Get Colorful! (Part Two)

Chapter 7: Merry Team Spirit

Chapter 8: Beanie Hat

Chapter 9: Easy Scarf

Chapter 10: Flower Power One

Chapter 11: Flower Power Ultra

Book 2: “Crochet Stitches For Beginners”

Preface

Chapter 1: How to Use This Book

Chapter 2: How to Read the Patterns

Chapter 3: Glossary

Chapter 4: Basic Stitches

Chapter 5: Textured Patterns

Chapter 6: Open Patterns

Chapter 7: Motifs

Chapter 8: A Note About Difficulty Levels

Other Books by This Author

Book 1: “Crochet Patterns For Beginners”

By

Amy Wright

PREFACE

Crochet comes in many forms, but perhaps the most popular and easy to learn is yarn crochet. Unlike, say, filet crochet, there’s often no need for charts, and unlike thread crochet, the hook and yarn sizes are usually large enough that no squinting or frustration occurs. As a bonus, an almost infinite number of items can be created once you’ve learned this craft, including home decorations, wearables, afghans, and more.

To get started with these patterns, you’ll need to know a handful of basic stitches and techniques; this book includes a reference guide to these, so if you have trouble remembering the difference between a double and single crochet, you can refer back to it as you work the patterns. The patterns are grouped according to two categories, items for use in the home (Chapters 2 through 7) and items to wear (Chapters 8 through 11). As you work your way through the book, you’ll find a jazzy way to decorate your Christmas tree while supporting your favorite team, a way to embellish almost any item (crocheted or not), and more.

Most of the patterns included are suitable for beginners, although a few might be better suited for intermediate crocheters. At the beginning of each pattern you’ll find notes about the difficulty level as well as the skills needed, which should help you decide whether you feel able to work the pattern. Beginners are encouraged to try the more difficult patterns, however – even if the results aren’t perfect, it’s okay, because trying is part of the learning process. If you’re having difficulties or find yourself getting frustrated at any point, don’t be afraid to reach out to the online crochet community.

Finally, remember that crochet should be, above all, fun. Grab a hook, then, and let’s dive in!

CHAPTER 1: CROCHET STITCHES – A REFERENCE

This book assumes some familiarity with crochet on the part of the reader. Because even experienced crocheters need their memory nudged from time to time, though, the following reference guide to the basic stitches has been included. If at any point you find yourself stuck while working one of the patterns in the book, you can refer back to this chapter. Note that all terminology used throughout this chapter and the rest of the work is taken from the American system.

SLIPKNOT

To create a slipknot, the crocheter first places the end of the working yarn over the index finger. There should be at least a 6-inch tail, which will be woven in at the end of the work. The tail of the yarn is laid over the working yarn to create a loop; the hook is then inserted through the loop, under the leg that is closest to the thumb (it is helpful, at this stage, to grasp the yarn tail with the thumb). Now the crocheter can catch the yarn tail with the hook and draw it up through the loop around the forefinger. The finger is then slid out of the loop and the yarn is cinched against the hook. A slipknot has been created, and the crocheter is ready to begin working.

CHAIN

The chain is the usually the foundation for yarn crochet projects. When turning a crocheted piece (flat) or starting a new round (circular), a chain is generally used for the first stitch of the row or round. For example, a pattern might read: ‘Chain 3 and turn; chain 3 counts as first double crochet.’

To create a chain, the crocheter must first create a slipknot. Then, the crocheter grabs the yarn with the hook and draws it through the slipknot. Note that the yarn should go around the hook from back to front. This creates one chain stitch; the crocheter can continue in the same manner until the desired number of chains has been created. When counting chains, the slipknot should not be included.

When working into a foundation chain, the crocheter inserts the hook through the top loop of the chain and the bar found on the backside of the stitch.

SLIP STITCH

The slip stitch is a flat stitch that is often used for moving between stitches or for joining rounds. A pattern might require the crocheter to move from one side of the work to the other without creating height, for example, so the crocheter would slip into each stitch along the row. Because of this lack of height, it’s more of a utility stitch than a decorative stitch.

To work a slip stitch, the crocheter inserts the hook into the stitch that will be worked. Next, the crocheter catches the yarn with the yarn still going from back to front – this is a yarn over. It can help to remember that the yarn moves clockwise. The yarn can then be drawn through; two loops are on the hook. Now the newly-created loop (the one closest to the hook end) is drawn through the second loop, leaving one loop. One slip stitch has been created.

Remember that these motions – the yarn moving around the hook clockwise and drawing new loops through the loops further back – are the foundational actions of most basic crochet stitches.

SINGLE CROCHET

The single crochet stitch is the shortest of the basic crochet stitches (not counting the slip stitch, which is flat). When worked over an entire piece, the resulting fabric will be dense and closed. The turning chain for a single crochet is one chain high.

To work a single crochet, the crocheter first inserts the hook through the top of the stitch that will be worked. If it’s a foundation chain, the hook will go under the top loop and the back bar; if it’s any other crochet stitch, the hook will go under the top two loops of the stitch – this area should resemble a ‘V.’ The hook is inserted under these loops from front to back. Next the crocheter grabs a yarn over and draws it through; there will be two loops on the hook. Now the crocheter grabs one more yarn over, then pulls this one through the two loops on the hook. One loop remains, and one single crochet has been created.

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET

The half double crochet is the next tallest stitch; it is so named because it requires half the actions and is roughly half as tall as a double crochet. A fabric created from half double crochet stitches is still fairly dense, so it can be used for items designed to retain warmth. The turning chain for a half double crochet is two chains high.

To work a half double crochet, the crocheter first creates a yarn over (still back to front), then inserts the hook into the stitch. The crocheter grabs a yarn over and draws it through – there will be three loops on the hook. Finally, the crocheter grabs one more yarn over and draws it through all three loops on the hook. One loop remains, and one single crochet has been created.

DOUBLE CROCHET

The double crochet is a taller stitch; when worked over an entire fabric, the resulting fabric will be loose and open. This stitch is commonly used to create clusters, including those found in granny squares. The turning chain for a double crochet is three chains high.

To work a double crochet, the crocheter creates a yarn over as for a half double, inserts the hook, then draws a new yarn over through. There will be three loops on the hook. Next, the crocheter grabs a yarn over and draws it through only the first two loops on the hook; two loops remain. Finally, the crocheter grabs one more yarn over and draws it through the remaining two loops. One loop remains, and one double crochet has been created.

TREBLE CROCHET

The treble crochet is a tall stitch, one that creates very loose, almost holey fabric, when worked over an entire piece. Because it’s so tall, any piece worked solely in treble crochet can be finished quickly. The turning chain for a treble crochet is four chains high.

To work a treble crochet, the crocheter first needs to grab two yarn overs, then insert the hook. The crocheter then grabs a yarn over and draws it through; there will be four loops on the hook. Now the crocheter grabs a yarn over and draws it through two loops – three loops remain. Again the crocheter grabs a yarn over and draws it through two loops – two loops remain. Finally, the crocheter repeats the last step again, grabbing a yarn over and drawing it through the remaining two loops. Only one loop remains, and one treble crochet has been created.

EASY DECREASE

One of the easiest ways to decrease in crochet is to work two (or more) stitches, stopping before the final step of the stitch each time, then finally drawing one yarn over through all of the loops on the hook. To decrease two double crochet, for example, the crocheter would work a double crochet into the next stitch, but stop before pulling a yarn over through the final two loops. The crocheter would then work a double crochet into the next stitch, stopping again before performing the last step – at this point, three loops remain on the hook. To finish the decrease, the crocheter has only to yarn over and draw the yarn through all three loops on the hook. In this way, two stitches have become one.

This same general principle applies to all of the basic stitches. Each stitch being decreased is worked until the final step, then a yarn over is drawn through the remaining stitches.

EASY INCREASE

One easy increase that every crocheter should have in his or her ‘bag of tricks’ is the simple method of crocheting two (or more) stitches into one stitch. Each new stitch, in other words, is worked into the same old stitch, with the hook being inserted in the same place each time. So, to increase two single crochet, the crocheter works three single crochet into the same stitch. Note that if a pattern instructs the crocheter to increase four stitches across a row, the new stitches will most likely be spread apart and spaced evenly over the row, as opposed to adding four stitches into one stitch, which will create a bulge or ridge in the fabric.

CHANGING COLORS

Sometimes new crocheters feel stress over changing colors or even over changing yarn in general. In reality, the process isn’t that hard – it’s having to weave in multiple yarn ends that can be challenging! For this reason, many crochet instructors advise students to weave in ends while working projects with many yarn changes. That way when the crocheting is done, the project is finished, and a large, daunting mess of yarn ends isn’t lying in wait.

Color changes in the round often occur at the beginning of a new round. In these cases, the old yarn is fastened off and the crocheter begins the next round with the new color. Sometimes, though, the color change happens in the middle of a round, or when crocheting flat, in the middle of a row. To change colors easily, the crocheter can work a stitch, but stop short of the last yarn over and draw through (as with a decrease). The crocheter then picks up the new yarn and works the last step of the stitch with both yarns. The next stitch is worked with the new color – easy.

Another easy method for changing colors especially useful for crocheting flat pieces involves laying the new yarn across the row being worked. The new yarn simply rests on top of the work and is crocheted over. The crocheter works in this manner for around three inches, then drops the old yarn and picks up the new at the stitch where the change will occur. When using this method, it’s important to think ahead and remember to begin the color change before the actual color change stitch.

WORKING AROUND A POST

When looking at taller crochet stitches, those that are half double and over, the crocheter might notice that there are two parts to the stitch: the top ‘V’ where the hook is inserted and the post, the rest of the stitch. Sometimes patterns instruct crocheters to crochet around this post; doing so usually creates layered, not flat, fabrics.

To crochet around the post, the stitch is performed as normal, but instead of inserting the hook under the top ‘V,’ the crocheter inserts the hook under the post. In this manner, two pieces of fabric can be joined together.

Now that you’ve brushed up on the basic stitches, you’re ready to tackle all of the following patterns. Readers are also encouraged to think of these patterns as templates and experiment by adding color changes, substituting stitches, and playing with embellishments. In crochet, there’s no right or wrong answer, so if you like the finished item, then you’re crocheting perfectly.

CHAPTER 2: BEAUTIFUL COASTER

Whether you’re ready to relax with a cup of hot tea or cold, you can enjoy your beverage without worrying about rings with this doily and coaster set – the project uses cotton yarn, which will soak up condensation. For a muted effect, choose a yarn that is close in color to your mugs. If you’d like a more eye-catching look, you might choose a yarn in a highly contrasting color. For those crocheters who’d like to add an extra dimension to the project, the doily can be crocheted in two colors instead of one; after the fifth round, simply break the yarn and join in a new color.

This project is suitable for adventurous beginners. Crocheters should know how to crochet in the round and work single, half double, and double crochet stitches.

MATERIALS:

-Lily Sugar ‘n Cream (120 yards per ball, 100 percent cotton) – 2 balls Soft Violet. Note: Two balls will give you sufficient yarn to create four to six coasters and the doily. If you’d only like to make two to three coasters, one ball is sufficient.

-Size U.S. H/5.00mm crochet hook

-Scissors

-Large-eyed yarn needle

-Stitch marker (optional)

GAUGE:

-4 double crochet equal 1 inch

ABBREVIATIONS:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-st: stitch

-sc: single crochet

-hdc: half double crochet

-dc: double crochet

INSTRUCTIONS:

COASTERS:

-Round 1: Ch 4 and join with sl st to form a ring. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 7 sc into ring – 8 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round. A marker can be added at this point to keep track of the beginning of the round.

-Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into same st. *Work 2 sc into next st*, repeat from * around – 16 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into same st. *Work 1 sc into next st, then increase 1 by working 2 sc into following st*, repeat from * until 1 st remains. Work 1 sc into this st – 24 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), work 1 hdc into same st. *Work 1 hdc into each of next 2 sts, then increase 1 by working 2 hdc into following st*, repeat from * until 2 sts remain. Work 1 hdc into each st – 32 hdc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 dc into same st. *Work 1 dc into each of next 3 sts, then increase 1 by working 2 dc into following st*, repeat from * until 3 sts remain. Work 1 dc into each st – 40 dc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-For coasters, fasten off the yarn at this point. For the doily, continue to Round 6.

DOILY:

-Round 6: *Ch 8, skip next 3 sts, work 1 sc into next st*, repeat from * around. The last sc will be worked in the first ch of the round – 10 loops created.

-Round 7: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 7 sc into first loop of the round. (Note: Do not work the sc into the bars of the sts, but rather completely around them, inserting the hook under the loop each time.) *Work 8 sc into next loop*, repeat from * around. On the last st of the last loop, sc into the top of the first ch to close the round.

-Round 8: *Ch 6, skip next 3 sts, work 1 sc into next st*, repeat from * around. The last sc will be worked in the first ch of the round – 20 loops created.

-Round 9: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 5 single crochet into first loop of the round. (Note: Work as for Round 7.) *Work 6 sc into next loop*, repeat from * around. On the last st of the last loop, sc into the top of the first chain to close the round.

-Fasten off yarn.

-Weave in all yarn ends on the coasters and the doily. Wet block to set the stitches, if desired.

Finishing this project is a breeze, since there’s no need to add a border. Of course, you can – perhaps choose a contrasting color and work one sc into each stitch around. Easy!

CHAPTER 3: SIMPLE DISHCLOTH

Behind granny squares, dishcloths are quite possibly one of the most popular items to crochet. Thanks to their small size, you can create many in an evening, and you can also experiment with new stitch patterns without a large commitment. They also make fantastic housewarming presents; you might consider whipping up a few of these dishcloths and pairing them with the next chapter’s pattern, Scrubbie, to give as a gift. For those who enjoy being eco-friendly, dishcloths also remove the need for disposable sponges – a definite plus.

This project is suitable for adventurous beginners. Crocheters should know how to increase, decrease, and work double crochet stitches.

MATERIALS:

-Lion Brand Cotton-Ease (207 yards per ball, 50 percent cotton/50 percent acrylic) – 1 ball Cherry (MC) and 1 ball Cream (CC)

-Size U.S. H/5.00 mm crochet hook

-Scissors

-Large-eyed yarn needle

GAUGE:

-4 double crochet equal 1 inch

ABBREVIATIONS:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-st: stitch

-dc: double crochet

-MC: main color

-CC: contrasting color

INSTRUCTIONS:

DISHCLOTH (MC):

-Foundation: Ch 24.

-Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 dc into fifth ch from hook. *Dc into each of next 3 ch, (decrease 1 dc over next 2 ch) twice, dc into each of next 3 ch, (increase 1 dc into each of next 2 ch) twice*, repeat from * once more, ending with 1 dc into next ch instead of next 2 ch. Turn.

-(Note: For the rest of the piece, the hook is inserted only under the back loop of the ‘V’ – not both.)

-Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 dc into first st. *Dc into each of next 3 sts, (decrease 1 dc over next 2 sts) twice, dc into each of next 3 sts, (increase 1 dc into each of next 2 sts) twice*, repeat from * once more, ending with 1 dc into next st instead of next 2 sts. Turn.

-Rows 3 through 9: Repeat Row 2. Break yarn after Row 9.

BORDER (CC):

-Choose a corner to begin in, then crochet the border by working 1 sc into each st along the top and bottom of the piece and 3 sc around each dc post along the sides. Along the bottom edge, work the sc into the bottom loop of the foundation chain; along the top, work under both loops of the ‘V.’ When working on the sides, insert the hook under the entire post of each dc. To join the border, work 1 sl st into the first sc, then break the yarn.

-Weave in ends. Blocking isn’t necessary, since the piece is designed for use in water!

Crocheting through only the back leg of the ‘V’ creates lines, which adds visual interest and breaks up the rows.

CHAPTER 4: SCRUBBIE

Dishcloths are great for washing those easy-to-clean dishes, but what about when you need a cleaning tool with a little more backbone? Don’t worry, this scrubbie is ready to step in and get the job done. The basic construction is nothing more than two circles joined while crocheting (no sewing!) — and because the top circle is smaller than the bottom one, it can be used as a handle to help you grip and get some elbow grease into the work. The hardwearing acrylic is crocheted tightly to stand up to wear, but you can certainly replace your Scrubbies often; one ball of yarn will make many.

This project is suitable for intermediate crocheters, although adventurous beginners are encouraged to give the pattern a try. Crocheters should know how to crochet in the round, work single crochet stitches, and crochet around a post.

MATERIALS:

-Lion Brand Yarn Vanna’s Choice 7.0 ounce (340 yards per ball, 100 percent acrylic) – 1 ball Black

-Size U.S. J/6.00mm crochet hook

-Yarn needle

-Scissors

-Stitch marker (optional)

GAUGE:

-3 single crochet equal 1 inch

ABBREVIATIONS:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-st: stitch

-sc: single crochet

INSTRUCTIONS:

BOTTOM PIECE:

-Round 1: Ch 5 and join with sl st to form a ring. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 9 sc into ring – 10 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round. A marker can be added at this point to keep track of the beginning of the round.

-Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into same st. *Work 2 sc into next st*, repeat from * around – 20 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into same st. *Work 1 sc into next st, then increase 1 by working 2 sc into following st*, repeat from * until 1 st remains. Work 1 sc into this st – 30 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 4: Work as for Round 3 – 45 sc created.

-Round 5: Work as for Round 3 – EXCEPT at the end of the round, work until 2 sc remain. Work 1 sc into each – 67 sc created. Break yarn.

TOP PIECE:

-Round 1: Ch 5 and join with sl st to form a ring. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 9 sc into ring – 10 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round. A marker can be added at this point to keep track of the beginning of the round.

-Round 2: Work as for Round 2 of top piece, EXCEPT the second sc of each increased st should be worked around the post of the first row of the bottom piece. In other words, ch 1, work 1 sc around the post, *work 1 sc into next st, then work 1 sc into same st around the post*, rep from * around – 20 sc created. The two pieces are now joined.

-Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into same st. *Work 1 sc into next st, then increase 1 by working 2 sc into following st*, repeat from * until 1 st remains. Work 1 sc into this st – 30 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round. Break yarn.

-Weave in ends. Blocking isn’t necessary, since the piece is designed for use in water!

Use the top as a handle or simply grab the whole thing. Either way, you’ll get those dishes clean!

CHAPTER 5: LET’S GET COLORFUL! (PART ONE)

Does anything make a house feel homier than a granny square afghan? While their popularity waned somewhat after the 1970s, they still make great crochet projects for several reasons. The pattern is easy to memorize, so they can be worked on while watching TV or listening to audiobooks. Washable acrylic yarns, a popular choice for granny square afghans, are widely available and usually inexpensive. And because this afghan is made up of squares that are joined once they’ve all been crocheted, this is one afghan project you can work on almost anywhere you go. This particular version uses a single crochet join that faces the right side of the work, with the ridges being part of the design. If you don’t like the ridged look, however, you can join the squares with the right sides facing in, instead.

This project is suitable for beginning crocheters. Crocheters should know how to crochet in the round, work single crochet stitches, and work double crochet stitches.

MATERIALS:

-Red Heart Super Saver Economy Yarn (364 yards per ball, 100 percent acrylic) – 4 balls Amethyst (MC), 2 balls Light Sage (CC 1), 2 balls Pretty ‘n Pink (CC 2), 1 ball White (BC)

-Size U.S. H/5.00 mm crochet hook

-Scissors

-Large-eyed yarn needle

-Glass-head pins

GAUGE:

-3 dc equal 1 inch

ABBREVIATIONS:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-st: stitch

-sc: single crochet

-dc: double crochet

-MC: main color

-CC: contrasting color

-BC: border color

INSTRUCTIONS:

-This afghan is made up of 63 squares; 32 squares use CC 1 for the center and 31 squares use CC 2. The instructions state ‘CC,’ so you’ll want to keep track of how many you have of each as you go.

SQUARES:

-Round 1 (CC): Ch 6 and join with sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into ring, *ch 2, 3 dc into ring*, repeat from * twice more, ch 2, sl st to top of first ch 3 to close the round – 4 dc clusters created.

-Round 2: Sl st into top of next 2 sts. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into same space, ch 2, 3 dc into same space, *ch 1, 3 dc into next corner, ch 2, 3 dc into the same corner*, repeat from * twice more, ch 2, sl st to top of first ch 3 to close the round – 8 dc clusters created.

-Round 3: Sl st into top of next 2 sts. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into same space, ch 2, 3 dc into same space, *ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch 1, 3 dc into corner space, ch 2, 3 dc into same space*, repeat from * twice more, ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch1, sl st to top of first ch 3 to close the round – 12 dc clusters created. Break yarn.

-Round 4 (MC): Join new yarn into one dc corner space with a sl st. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into same space, ch 2, 3 dc into same space, *ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch1, 3 dc into corner space, ch 2, 3 dc into same space*, repeat from * twice more, ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch 1, sl st to top of first ch 3 to close the round – 16 dc clusters created.

-Round 5: Sl st into top of next 2 sts. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into same space, ch 2, 3 dc into same space, *ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch1, 3 dc into next space, ch 1, 3 dc into corner space, ch 2, 3 dc into same space*, repeat from * twice more, ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch 1, sl st to top of first ch 3 to close the round – 20 dc clusters created. Break yarn.

-Repeat square pattern until there are 63 squares finished.

-Joining the Squares and Adding the Border:

-Choose a flat surface on which to place all of your squares. Arrange them in order, alternating colors one after the other. To join the vertical rows, pick up two squares and hold them with the right sides facing outward. With BC, crochet one sc into each stitch along the tops of both squares; instead of inserting the hook under the ‘V’ of each stitch, however, insert the hook only through the back loop of the square closer to you and the front loop of the square farther from you. Fasten off the yarn at the end of the edge. Continue in the same manner to join all 9 squares in each vertical row, always making sure the right side is facing outward. You will have 7 rows of 9 squares each.

-To join the rows together, take two and place them on top of each other with the right sides facing outward. As you join each row, be sure to maintain the color pattern; before starting, it is helpful to pin the rows together. Work one sc into each sc along the row, going under only the back and front loop as with joining the vertical rows. When you come to the end of each square, work 1 extra sc through the loops of the BC joins to so that the intersections are securely joined. Continue in the same manner to join all 7 rows.

-To add the border, start in one corner and go around the entire afghan by working 1 sc into each stitch. This time, however, work under both loops of the ‘V’ on top of the stitch. Catch the BC joins by adding an extra sc on top of them. Fasten off when the starting corner is reached, or, for a wider border, add one more row of sc.

-Weave in all yarn ends. Block, if desired.

In this photo you can see the arrangement of the squares. Lay all of your squares out before you begin to join – you wouldn’t want to get any in the wrong order! If you’d prefer the pink to be in the corners, you can reverse the colors by crocheting 32 pink and 31 green.

CHAPTER 6: LET’S GET COLORFUL! (PART TWO)

As you get more and more into crocheting, you might notice that you have a lot of scrap yarn left over. Sometimes this is due to overbuying, sometimes it’s because a project only needs a small amount of yarn from a ball – but whatever the reason, you don’t have to throw that yarn away! This lapghan is designed to use up all of your scraps in a functional manner. Each time you make one, too, you’ll get a surprise, since you never know how all of your random scraps are going to look when crocheted together. If you’d prefer to have more control over the design and color selection process, you can also purchase yarn for this project.

MATERIALS:

-Scrap yarns in the same weight. It doesn’t matter which weight of yarn you choose (DK, worsted, aran, etc.), but to maintain an even gauge, they’ll need to be the same. Of course, if you’d like some variety and enjoy the unknown, feel free to experiment with using different weights of yarn.

-A crochet hook that is suitable for your yarn weight. For help in choosing, visit the Craft Yarn Council’s webpage on standard yarn weights (craftyarncouncil.com/weight).

-Scissors

-Large-eyed yarn needle.

GAUGE:

-It isn’t necessary to obtain gauge for this project; when you feel the afghan is large enough, it’s done.

ABBREVIATIONS:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-st: stitch

-sc: single crochet

-dc: double crochet

INSTRUCTIONS:

-This afghan is essentially one large granny square. You can change colors after every round, or every two rounds, or randomly – the only limitation is how much yarn you have. To start the afghan, work as for the start of Let’s Get Colorful (Part One):

-Round 1: Ch 6 and join with sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into ring, *ch 2, 3 dc into ring*, repeat from * twice more, ch 2, sl st to top of first ch 3 to close the round – 4 dc clusters created.

-Round 2: Sl st into top of next 2 sts. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into same space, ch 2, 3 dc into same space, *ch 1, 3 dc into next corner, ch 2, 3 dc into the same corner*, repeat from * twice more, ch 2, sl st to top of first ch 3 to close the round – 8 dc clusters created.

-Round 3: Sl st into top of next 2 sts. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into same space, ch 2, 3 dc into same space, *ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch 1, 3 dc into corner space, ch 2, 3 dc into same space*, repeat from * twice more, ch 1, 3 dc into next space, ch1, sl st to top of first ch 3 to close the round – 12 dc clusters created.

-At this point, you should start to notice a pattern. With each round, you are adding one new dc cluster to each side of the square. To continue working past Round 3, then, you simply add an extra ‘ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1’ before working the corner. To change yarns, break the yarn after you’ve slipped the last ch into the top of the first ch 3, join a new yarn into the corner with a slip stitch, and continue. You might join a new yarn after every round, or you could crochet a few rounds before changing.

-When you have a lapghan that’s the size you desire, simply break the last yarn and weave in the ends. You might also add a border by working single crochet or half double crochet around the blanket. And if you find these lapghans addictive (as many crocheters do!) you might consider donating one or two to charity. See the Resources section for organizations that will put your hard work to good use.

Don’t be afraid to go crazy when you use up your scrap yarns! Sometimes you might not like the resulting combinations, but occasionally you’re sure to hit on a winner.

CHAPTER 7: MERRY TEAM SPIRIT

Sure, Christmas is the season for red and green – but sports fans don’t have to give up their colors for the holidays! This garland will give your Christmas tree or bannister a dose of team spirit, no matter which team you support. You can customize the length of the garland easily, too, so this project will suit your home whether you have a mini-tree or a 7-foot behemoth. Note that although this project calls for Loops and Threads acrylic yarn, any worsted weight acrylic will do; you may have to mix brands to find a match for your favorite team’s colors.

This project is suitable for beginning crocheters. Crocheters should know how to work single and half double crochet stitches.

MATERIALS:

-Loops and Threads Impeccable (277 yards per ball, 100 percent acrylic) in two colors, 1 ball of each

-Size U.S. H/5.00 mm crochet hook

-Scissors

-Large-eyed yarn needle

GAUGE:

-3 single crochet equal 1 inch

ABBREVIATIONS:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-st: stitch

-sc: single crochet

-hdc: half double crochet

-C1: color 1

-C2: color 2

INSTRUCTIONS:

FIRST LINK:

-Foundation: Ch 18.

-Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as first sc). Skipping first 2 chs from hook, work 1 sc into each st across the row – 18 sc created. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), work 1 hdc into each st across the row – 18 hdc. Turn.

-Row 3: As Row 2.

-Row 4: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into each st across the row – 18 sc. Do not turn.

-Hold the two short ends of the piece with right sides together. Work 6 sl sts across the edge, being sure to insert the hook under both sides of the fabric on each stitch. Fasten off the yarn, then weave in the ends. Turn the piece inside out so that the sl st ridge is on the inside.

FOLLOWING LINKS:

-Work as for first link, but before crocheting the two ends of the piece together, place the old link on the new so that they will be joined once the edge is finished. Alternate between C1 and C2 for each successive link.

-Continue adding links to the garland chain until it reaches the desired length.

Where will you put your garland? You might even consider using it for the birthday party of the No. 1 sports fan in your life!

CHAPTER 8: BEANIE HAT

From a chilly spring shower to winter’s worst snow, slouchy beanies seem to work in all weather. You’ll be ready for every season with this particular hat – and quickly. Because the majority of the beanie is worked in treble crochet, you’ll be done before you know it. And unlike some slouchy beanies, you won’t have to worry about this one falling off, thanks to a single crochet brim that is worked more snugly than the rest of the hat. You may find it’s so comfortable and quick to create that you need to make one in every color.

This project is suitable for adventurous beginning crocheters. Crocheters should know how to crochet in the round, work single and treble crochet stitches, and increase and decrease.

MATERIALS:

-Cascade Yarns 220 Superwash (220 yards per ball, 100 percent wool) – 1 ball Moss

-Size U.S. G/4.00 mm crochet hook

-Scissors

-Large-eyed yarn needle

-Stitch marker (optional)

GAUGE:

-3 single crochet equal 1 inch

ABBREVIATIONS:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-st: stitch

-sc: single crochet

-tc: treble crochet

INSTRUCTIONS:

-Round 1: Ch 4 and join with sl st to form a ring. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 7 sc into ring – 8 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round. A marker can be added at this point to keep track of the beginning of the round.

-Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into same st. *Work 2 sc into next st*, repeat from * around – 16 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into same st. *Work 1 sc into next st, then increase 1 by working 2 sc into following st*, repeat from * until 1 st remains. Work 1 sc into this st – 24 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 4: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into same st. *Work 1 sc into each of next 2 sts, then increase 1 by working 2 sc into following st*, repeat from * until 2 sts remain. Work 1 sc into each st – 32 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 5: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into same st. *Work 1 sc into each of next 3 sts, then increase 1 by working 2 sc into following st*, repeat from * until 3 sts remain. Work 1 sc into each st – 40 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 6: Ch 4 (counts as first tc), work 1 tc into same st. *Work 1 tc into each of next 4 sts, then increase 1 by working 2 tc into following st*, repeat from * until 4 sts remain. Work 1 tc into each st – 48 tc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 7: Ch 4 (counts as first tc), work 1 tc into same st. *Work 1 tc into each of next 5 sts, then increase 1 by working 2 tc into following st*, repeat from * until 5 sts remain. Work 1 tc into each st – 56 tc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 8: Ch 4 (counts as first tc), work 1 tc into same st. *Work 1 tc into each of next 6 sts, then increase 1 by working 2 tc into following st*, repeat from * until 6 sts remain. Work 1 tc into each st – 64 tc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Rounds 9 through 12: Ch 4 (counts as first tc), work 1 tc into each st of the round – 64 sts. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 13: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into each of next 5 sts. *Decrease 2 by working next two sts together in sc, work 1 sc into each of next 6 sts*, repeat from * until 2 sts remain, decrease – 56 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Rounds 14 through 16: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into each st of the round – 56 sts. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Break yarn and weave in yarn ends. Block, if desired.

A few rows of sc will help the hat stay put on the head – and create an easy border.

CHAPTER 9: EASY SCARF

If you’re looking for an easy crochet project, you could do no better than this scarf, so named because the blue and cream colors are reminiscent of Juliska Country Estate Delft Blue dishes. The entire scarf is composed of single crochet stitches, so it’s a good project for practicing getting an even stitch tension, but the color changes can add some interest to prevent boredom. This scarf pattern is also easy to customize; crocheters who’d like a wider scarf can crochet a longer foundation chain, while those who’d like a narrower scarf can create a shorter foundation chain.

This project is suitable for beginning crocheters. Crocheters should know how to work single crochet stitches and change colors at the end of a row.

MATERIALS:

-Red Heart Super Saver Economy Yarn (364 yards per ball, 100 percent acrylic) – 1 ball Country Blue or Delft Blue (MC) and 1 ball Aran (CC)

-Size U.S. H/5.00 mm crochet hook

-Scissors

-Large-eyed yarn needle

-Tape measure

GAUGE:

-3 single crochet equal 1 inch

ABBREVIATIONS:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-st: stitch

-sc: single crochet

-MC: main color

-CC: contrasting color

INSTRUCTIONS:

SCARF:

-Foundation: With MC, ch 20.

-Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc in third st from hook and in each st across – 20 sc. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc in each st across – 20 sc. Turn.

-Row 3: Drop MC and pick up CC. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc in each st across – 20 sc. Turn.

-Row 4: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc in each st across – 20 sc. Turn. Drop CC and pick up MC.

-Repeat Rows 1 through 4 until scarf measures 60 inches long or desired length. Work Rows 1 and 2 once more. Do not cut the yarn.

BORDER AND FRINGE:

-Work 1 sc into each st along all four sides. When working along the side with the color changes, be sure to crochet over and around the yarn floats, which will disguise them in the finished item. Once the beginning corner of the border has been reached, fasten off the yarn.

-Cut 20 10-inch lengths of yarn in each MC and CC for the ends. There will be a total of 80 lengths of yarn. Insert the crochet hook through the back of the fabric at the bottom corner of the scarf and draw up two lengths of yarn, one of each color. Pull the ends through the loop and cinch. Repeat across the bottom, working two lengths of fringe into each sc. Add fringe to the other end in the same manner. There will be 20 loops of fringe on each end. Trim the fringe to an even length, weave in the ends, and block.

CHAPTER 10: FLOWER POWER ONE

Crocheted flowers can be used to embellish anything you can think of – hats, scarves, bags, pillows, afghans – the only limit is your imagination. This flower not only works up quickly but also has a unique look; instead of using the top, or side facing the crocheter, as the front, the piece is worked, then turned over so that the back becomes the front. The size of the flower can be easily adjusted, as well. The pattern creates a flower with a 5-inch diameter, but by shortening the chains that comprise the petals, a smaller, more compact flower is created.

This project is suitable for beginners; although one round requires crocheting around the post, the fabric is open enough to make doing so simple. Crocheters should know how to work single and half double crochet stitches.

MATERIALS:

-Caron Simply Soft (315 yards per ball, 100 percent acrylic), 1 ball Burgundy (Note: This flower only uses a small amount of yarn, so scrap yarn can also be used.)

-Size U.S. H/5.00 mm crochet hook

-Scissors

-Large-eyed yarn needle

GAUGE:

-5 sc equal 1 inch

ABBREVIATIONS:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-st: stitch

-sc: single crochet

-hdc: half double crochet

INSTRUCTIONS:

-Round 1: Ch 8 and join with sl st to form a ring. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 11 sc into ring – 12 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into each st – 12 sc. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 3: *Ch 8, work 1 sl st into second st from hook*, repeat from * to end of round – 6 petals created.

-Round 4: Work 10 sc into petal, being sure to insert the hook under the foundation chain and not through the sts. Repeat for all 6 petals. At the end of the round, sl st into first sc.

-Round 5: *Ch 10, work 1 sl st around post between next 2 petals*, repeat from * to end of round – 7 petals created.

-Round 6: Work 10 hdc into petal, being sure to insert the hook under the foundation chain and not through the sts. Repeat for all 7 petals. At the end of the round, sl st into first sc.

-Break yarn. Weave in ends, then turn the piece over – the backside is the right side. The flower does not require blocking, but you may wish to spread the stitches on each petal so that they are even.

You’re sure to find a use for this flower, whether your preference is rich reds or pale blues.

CHAPTER 11: FLOWER POWER ULTRA

Once you’ve learned to craft one crochet flower, you may find that they are addictive. To help your garden grow, you can give this denser flower a try. Worked in two colors, the flower begins the same as Flower Power One but becomes less open; this filled-in, contrasting color look would make it perfect for a broach or headband. A button added to the center finishes it off. If you’re feeling adventurous, you might try changing colors every round, as well.

This project is suitable for adventurous beginners. Because the last two rows are crocheted between the other rows and around the post, this flower is more difficult than the previous one. Crocheters should also know how to work single and half double crochet stitches.

MATERIALS:

-Caron Simply Soft (315 yards per ball, 100 percent acrylic), 1 ball Burgundy (C 1) and 1 ball Bone (C 2) (Note: This flower only uses a small amount of yarn, so scrap yarn can also be used.)

-Size U.S. H/5.00 mm crochet hook

-Scissors

-Large-eyed yarn needle

-1 button, 0.5-inch to 1-inch diameter

GAUGE:

-5 sc equal 1 inch

ABBREVIATIONS:

-ch: chain

-sl st: slip stitch

-st: stitch

-sc: single crochet

-hdc: half double crochet

-C 1: color 1

-C 2: color 2

INSTRUCTIONS:

-Round 1: With C 1, ch 8 and join with sl st to form a ring. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 11 sc into ring – 12 sc created. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 1 sc into each st – 12 sc. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round.

-Round 3: *Ch 8, work 1 sl st into second st from hook*, repeat from * to end of round – 6 petals created.

-Round 4: Work 10 sc into petal, being sure to insert the hook under the foundation chain and not through the sts. Repeat for all 6 petals. At the end of the round, sl st into first sc.

-Round 5: *Ch 10, work 1 sl st around post between next 2 petals*, repeat from * to end of round – 7 petals created.

-Round 6: Work 10 hdc into petal, being sure to insert the hook under the foundation chain and not through the sts. Repeat for all 7 petals. At the end of the round, sl st into first sc.

-Break C 1. Turn the work over.

-Round 7: With C 2, sl st around post between two layers of petals. *Ch 8, sl st around next post*, repeat from * to end of round – 7 petals created. Before beginning Round 8, turn the work over in order to work back around the round.

-Round 8: Work 16 hdc into petal, being sure to insert the hook under the foundation chain and not through the sts. Repeat for all 7 petals. At the end of the round, sl st into first post. Break yarn.

-Round 9: With C 2, and working into the top of Round 2, work 1 sl st into 1 sc. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), ch 2, sc into next st. *Ch 2, sc into next st*, repeat from * to the end of the round. Sl st into top of first ch to finish the round. Break yarn.

-Weave in ends. You can use the yarn to sew the button by splitting the ply of C 1 and removing one strand. Sew the button to the center.

The right side is actually the backside. When crocheting, feel free to look at your fabrics in different ways; you never know what you might discover.

Book 2: “Crochet Stitches For Beginners”

By

Amy Wright

PREFACE

Although there remains some debate about the exact timeline, most crochet historians agree that crochet came into being between the 16th and 17th centuries. What does that mean for crocheters today? Simply put, modern crocheters have been handed an art form with centuries of refinement, one created through sharing, inventiveness, and hard work. And nowhere is this history of collaboration and creativity more evident than in a crochet stitch dictionary.

Stitch dictionaries like this one, not only teach crocheters new stitches, but also act as a time capsule of sorts. Here you’ll find the basic stitches, the ones that grew from the hands of fishermen as they created nets and the hands of Victorian ladies who crafted antimacassars. You’ll also find the humble granny square, which reached the height of popularity in the 1970s; everything from bags to bell-bottoms could be created from the granny square, as anyone who’s dug through grandma’s crochet books can attest to.

Crocheters are encouraged to use this book not only to learn to perform stitches that thousands upon thousands of hands refined, but also to craft a new legacy for crocheters to come. Take a motif and give it a personal twist. Memorize the standard stitches and use them to build something new. Play with hook sizes, colors, and yarns. Join the ranks of the imaginative crocheters who’ve built this amazing craft over the years.

Crocheters can also find new stitch patterns in this book, ones with no history as of yet. Don’t be afraid to change these, either. Crafting is collaboration – this is your chance to give these new patterns a home in the history of crochet.

And however you use this book, don’t forget to have fun. At its origin, crochet was most likely used out of necessity or the desire to improve life somehow (as in the lower classes who may have crocheted to imitate the rich lace of the upper classes). Much has changed over the centuries, however, and crochet is now more often than not, an enjoyable pastime. Enjoy yourself as you work through this ‘photo album’ of days gone by and leave a legacy of delight for future crocheters.

Happy hooking.

CHAPTER 1: HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

So you’ve picked up this crochet stitch dictionary, and you’re ready to get started. But where? And how can you make the most effective (and enjoyable!) use of the information the book contains? There are no right or wrong answers, but there are a few methods you might consider as you start (or continue) on your path of learning more about crochet. You could, for example, use this book. . .

-As a reference guide. Crocheters (and knitters, for that matter) can never have too many stitch dictionaries for two reasons. First, every dictionary contains different patterns and variations on the most popular patterns. Second, every designer writes about patterns and crochet slightly differently. So, for example, if you need to learn more about the popcorn stitch because you’re creating an item that uses the stitch, you can go to your stitch dictionaries to see variations, varied instructions on how to perform the stitch, and more. With a stitch dictionary (or two, or three) at your disposal, you’ll always have plenty of information to help you as you work projects.

-As a way to learn more about gauge, drape, colors, and more. Each stitch pattern creates a unique fabric. Some hang well, while others are stiff; some are suited to fine yarns, while others look best in chunky yarns; and some are eye-popping in multiple colors, while others just look too busy. The best way to learn how all of these factors come together in different types of crochet fabrics is simply to explore, which means trying out the stitch patterns in this book with different yarn weights, hook sizes, yarn colors, and more. You might even keep a journal with notes about each pattern – how it looks, what size hook you prefer, etc.

-As a way to obtain an even stitch tension. New crocheters often have issues with tension simply because they haven’t had enough practice in making each stitch even. Crocheting items will help smooth out any hiccups in tension, but it can be frustrating when a finished object comes out uneven or rough looking. Practicing on stitch pattern swatches, doesn’t carry this frustration, since the finished swatch isn’t meant to be used or worn. If the stitches in your swatch are uneven, start a new one or rip it out and start again. As you practice each stitch pattern in the book, you’ll find that your tension will start to even out.

-As a project. Some people enjoy making swatches of patterns, while others feel that having many squares and nothing to do with them is wasteful or pointless. Leaving aside the fact that the practice is always helpful, you can solve this problem by creating a sampler afghan. Work a 6-inch by 6-inch square (for example) of all the patterns in this dictionary, then join them together and add a border. Of course, you’ll need to do some math to determine how many pattern repeats you’ll need to create squares that are all the same size, but again, this is good practice for working other crochet projects. After you’ve worked every pattern and put them all together, you’ll have not only more knowledge and skill but also a useful object.

-As a jumping off point for experimentation. If you’ve been crocheting for a while, you’ll probably begin to see that you can change several factors in a stitch pattern, which will give you an entirely new creation. Need a more open fabric? Substitute half double crochet or double crochet with treble crochet. Wonder how two patterns would look if combined? Alternate a repeat of each across a fabric and see how the finished fabric turns out. Think a pattern would look better in multiple colors? Try it and decide for yourself. You can’t go wrong when experimenting with crochet; you can only create something that isn’t exactly what you wanted.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

No matter how you’re going to use this stitch dictionary and what your end goal may be, you should be armed with the proper information and materials before you begin. After all, if you were going for a swim in the sea you wouldn’t bring a parka! Proper preparation often makes the difference between having an adequate experience and having an amazing one. A few things you should consider before getting started, might be…

-This book isn’t designed to teach an absolute beginner how to crochet. While the basic stitches are included as a reference, information about choosing a way to hold a hook or how to make a yarn over hasn’t been included. If you’re an absolute beginner, you should at least know how to hold a hook, make a slip knot, crochet a foundation chain, insert the hook, and yarn over. As long as you can do these things (the absolute basics of crochet), though, you’ll be able to work every stitch pattern in the book.

-With a few exceptions, gauge and recommended hooks and yarns haven’t been included. As with most stitch dictionaries, the stitch patterns are designed to be worked with the materials you’d like to use, whether that’s fine yarn or thick, small hooks or large. Choose the materials you feel comfortable with – there’s no wrong answer.

-Each stitch pattern isn’t marked with a difficulty level. Sometimes crocheters talk themselves out of trying new patterns because of a difficulty level – a beginning crocheter, for instance, might be afraid to try a pattern marked ‘intermediate.’ To encourage the reader to dive in and give every pattern a try, notes about the difficulty of each pattern have been moved to a separate chapter at the end of this book. If you feel you must know the level of a particular pattern, feel free to skip ahead. Otherwise – jump in and give the patterns you like a try.

-You’ll need very few materials, but a few extras beyond a hook and some yarn will make your crocheting easier. A row counter will help you keep track of pattern rows so that you don’t become lost or forget which row you’re working. A stitch marker will help you keep track of the beginning of rounds when working the motifs. For those who are experimenting, a tape measure is a handy tool. And don’t forget a sharp pair of scissors!

Now that you’ve considered the ways to use a stitch dictionary and prepared yourself to start, you’re ready to get to work. There’s only one more important thing to remember – crochet is fun! Don’t become overly frustrated if you’re having trouble; sometimes it helps to put the work down and walk away for a while. Whatever you do, though, don’t give up. You never know what your contribution to the world of crochet will be unless you keep trying – and smiling while you create.

CHAPTER 2: HOW TO READ THE PATTERNS

Crochet pattern designers and writers, for the most part, use a standard system of abbreviations and conventions in patterns. To the uninitiated, these may look confusing, but they are designed to lessen misunderstandings between designer and crafter. The following list of tips and explanations will have you reading patterns in no time; if you’ve ever wondered things like, why an asterisk is placed in a pattern, this section is definitely for you.

-Worked over a multiple. . . : This is the first line of most crochet stitch patterns, and it’s the information you’ll need to decide how long to make your foundation chain. The first part, ‘multiple of X,’ refers to the repeat of the stitch pattern. The second part, ‘plus Y,’ refers to the extra chain stitches that are added to make the pattern even or make the foundation chain. For example, if you have a pattern that reads ‘worked over a multiple of 6 stitches plus 4,’ you’ll need a 10-stitch foundation chain. To make the piece wider, you continue to add 6 chain stitches for every pattern repeat (since the pattern repeat is 6 stitches). You don’t, however, need to add the 4 stitches for each repeat you add – it only gets added once.

-X number of stitches: To make setting up the patterns easier, a stitch count has been included at the end of the first row of each. Note, that the stitch count is only for one pattern repeat plus the extra stitches added for the foundation (see previous). To determine the stitch count you’ll have for the number of repeats you’re working, simply add the repeats to the stitch count. If the pattern calls for a multiple of 4 plus 7 and the first row has a stitch count of 10, you add 4 for every repeat to 10. So, if you worked a foundation of 27 chain stitches (5 pattern repeats plus 7), your first row should have 26 stitches.

-Skip first X number of stitches: When crocheting flat, the crocheter needs to bring the hook up to the correct height for the stitch being worked at the beginning of each row. When working with the foundation chain, that generally means skipping a few stitches and crocheting into the second, third, fourth, or fifth chain from the hook. In this way, the chain stitches become the first crochet stitch of the row – so it’s important not to miss this step.

-Counts as the first sc, dc, etc: To bring the stitch to the correct height on every row after the foundation row, one, two, three, or four chain stitches are worked; these stand in as the first stitch of the row. When a pattern directs you to work into the last stitch of the previous row, it is generally this chain you’ll be crocheting into. This is also true of working in the round.

-Asterisks: Designers use asterisks to indicate a repeat of a set of instructions. You’ll always see an asterisk at the start, but not all designers put one at the end of the set – and some use two at the end! Whichever way it’s written, the close of the set will also have directions for how many times to work that particular set. Once you’ve come to the end, you simply keep repeating from the first asterisk for as many times as directed. Pay attention, though, because some patterns instruct the crocheter to stop before completing the last repeat – a good example of why it’s important to read a pattern from start to finish before beginning.

-Parentheses: Designers use parentheses to indicate a repeat of stitches that needs to be worked a particular number of times within a larger set of instructions. You might see, for example, “2 double crochet, (chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 3) twice, 2 double crochet” – the first two stitches are worked, and then the actions in the parentheses are completed twice; once the parentheses are completed, the crocheter can move on to the next stitch.

-Gauge: Gauge is the number of stitches and rows per inch of crocheted fabric; since stitch patterns can be created from any hook or yarn, the gauge is variable and not included. You can check the gauge of a stitch pattern by measuring your swatch once it becomes about 4-inches square; to get the most accurate measurement, wash and block the swatch before doing so. This number will help you decide how many pattern repeats you’ll need for a project – multiply the width you need by your stitches-per-inch and you’ll have the number of stitches you need to make your project wide enough. Row gauge works the same way.

-Repeat Rows X through Y: At the end of the pattern instructions, you’ll see the instructions for how to make the piece taller. Simply continue to work the designated rows in sequence until the piece is long enough, and then you may cut the yarn. Don’t forget to weave in the ends.

One of the most important tips for reading patterns, however, isn’t one you’ll find written in most pattern booklets. Simply put, it’s patience. If you know how to cook or play the piano or ride a bike, you probably know what it’s like not to master something on your first try – it took time. The same goes for reading crochet patterns, so don’t give up. And if you find yourself stuck, remember that the Internet is a fantastic resource for crocheters. Visit a forum and ask for help; most crafters will be happy to share their knowledge.

CHAPTER 3: GLOSSARY

All abbreviations used in the following patterns can be found in this list. Because most crochet designers use a common system of abbreviations, you can also refer to this glossary if you encounter terms you’re unfamiliar with in other patterns. Differences between designers and pattern publishers are not uncommon, so don’t be surprised to find some variation. Designers from the U.S. and those from the U.K. work under different abbreviation and naming systems, as well. The abbreviations used in this work are from the U.S. system.

ABBREVIATIONS

-bet: between

-BPdc: back post double crochet

-BPsc: back post single crochet

-BPtc: back post treble crochet

-CC: contrasting color

-ch: chain

-cont: continue

-dc: double crochet

-dc2tog: double crochet 2 stitches together

-FPdc: front post double crochet

-FPsc: front post single crochet

-FPtc: front post treble crochet

-hdc: half double crochet

-hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 stitches together

-htr: half treble crochet

-MC: main color

-mm: millimeter

-patt: pattern

-rep: repeat

-RS: right side

-sc: single crochet

-sc2tog: single crochet 2 stitches together

-sk: skip

-sl st: slip stitch

-tc: treble crochet

-tc2tog: treble crochet 2 stitches together

-tch: turning chain

-WS: wrong side

-yo: yarn over

CHAPTER 4: BASIC STITCHES

If crochet were cooking, the following stitches would be like an assortment of cheeses; enjoyable on their own but equally well-suited to act as the base of something more involved. Crocheters who have experience in the craft will probably know several of these stitches, while beginning crocheters may not. Whether you’re familiar with them, you may find the notes for each stitch pattern useful; they outline the types of items you might make with each pattern as well as instructions for reference – hey, everyone’s memory needs to be jogged from time to time!

SINGLE CROCHET

The single crochet is a short stitch, although it isn’t the shortest – that honor goes to the slip stitch. A fabric worked entirely in single crochet is dense, with almost no space between the stitches. This makes the single crochet a great choice for items that must be thick or hard-wearing; examples include bath mats, rugs, coats, slippers, towels, and bags. A fabric crocheted entirely in this stitch may curl, so don’t be surprised if it requires blocking. You can also mitigate this by adding a border to pieces crocheted in this stitch.

To work a single crochet, insert the hook through the stitch or chain from front to back, yarn over and draw the hook through – two loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through both loops.

The turning chain for a single crochet is one chain high.

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET

When you need a fabric that isn’t quite as open as that made by double crochet, but not quite as dense as that made by single crochet, the half double might be your best bet. This stitch creates a fabric with only a small amount of drape, so you could consider it for the same items as for single crochet, but you might also find that it creates pleasing hats, scarves, and sweaters. If you look closely, you’ll notice that the half double produces more prominent horizontal lines than both single crochet and double crochet.

To work a half double crochet, yarn over, then insert the hook through the stitch or chain from front to back. Yarn over and draw the hook through – three loops on the hook. Yarn over and draw through all three loops.

The turning chain for a half double crochet is two chains high.

DOUBLE CROCHET

The double crochet is a versatile stitch; it’s often used to make clusters, bobbles, cables – almost any decorative stitch you can think of. It also creates a versatile fabric when worked alone since it drapes well and is open without being exceedingly lacy. Double crochet fabrics make excellent garments, afghans, and home decorations; from scarves to hats to cushions, you can probably make it in double crochet.

To work a double crochet, yarn over, then insert the hook through the stitch or chain from front to back. Yarn over and draw the hook through – three loops on the hook. Yarn over again and draw through the first two loops on the hook – two loops remain. Yarn over one last time and draw through the remaining two loops.

The turning chain for a double crochet is three chains high.

HALF TREBLE CROCHET

While a half treble crochet fabric has about the same drape and openness of a double crochet fabric, it has one noticeable difference. Just like the half double crochet, the half treble produces a strong horizontal line across the fabric as the last loops of each stitch are stacked.

To work a half treble crochet, yarn over twice and insert the hook through the stitch or chain from front to back. Yarn over and draw the loop through – four loops on the hook. Yarn over again and draw through the first two loops on the hook – three loops remain. Yarn over one last time and draw through remaining three loops.

The turning chain for a half treble crochet is three chains high.

TREBLE CROCHET

The treble crochet is a skyscraper of a stitch, and as such it produces very open, loose fabric. It lends itself to textured stitches well, since the height gives it room for wraps and makes crocheting around the post fairly low hassle. Because this stitch produces such an open fabric, you might reserve it for items that don’t need to be particularly warm, such as summer scarves or beanies, lightweight sweaters, or dishcloths.

To work a treble crochet, yarn over twice and insert the hook through the stitch or chain from front to back. Yarn over and draw the loop through – four loops on the hook. Yarn over again and draw through the first two loops on the hook – three loops remain. Yarn over again and draw through the first two loops on the hook – two loops remain. Yarn over one last time and draw through remaining three loops.

The turning chain for a treble crochet is four chains high.

Sometimes crocheters wonder if there are taller stitches than the treble crochet. Actually, there are – but you may not see them used in many patterns. To create taller stitches, simply add one more yarn over before you insert the hook, then work the end of the stitch as (yarn over, draw through two loops) until you have one loop left. This is a useful technique to know for when you are creating shapes, as opposed to flat or square fabrics.

SINGLE CROCHET THROUGH BACK LOOPS

You can spice up your single crochet by switching up the way you insert your hook through the stitch. Here, instead of inserting the hook through both sides of the ‘v’ on top of the stitch, you insert the hook only through the backside of the ‘v’ – the side of the ‘v’ on the back side of the fabric as you are looking at your work. The resulting fabric will be as dense as a regular single crochet fabric, but you’ll have created strong horizontal lines by working this way. Note that you can work any crochet stitch this way, so you might work the basic stitches through the back loops and see what type of fabric you create.

CHAPTER 5: TEXTURED PATTERNS

Add some dimension to your crochet with these textured patterns. Some will make your fabric 3-dimensional, while others will help you break away from straight lines, but either way, you’ll have fabrics that are anything but boring. Since these patterns are relatively dense, you’ll want to reserve them for items where thickness is desired – afghans, coats, pillow covers, sweaters, or hats, for example.

CHUNKY WAVES

The hard-working slip stitch helps create textured waves in this pattern. Although half double crochet stitches are also used, the resulting fabric is not overly stretchy, making this a useful pattern for items that need to hold their shapes. If the pattern rows are too short for your liking, you might change all hdc stitches to dc stitches and all slip stitches to sc stitches (just don’t forget to change the turning chains!).

-Worked over a multiple of 4 stitches plus 7.

-Row 1: (RS) Skip first ch, work sl st into second ch from hook, sl st into next ch. *1 hdc into each of next 2 chs, 1 sl st into each of next 2 chs*, repeat from * to end – 10 sts. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), work 1 hdc into second st from hook. *1 sl st into each of next 2 sts, 1 hdc into each of next 2 sts*, repeat from * to end. Turn.

-Row 3: Work 1 sl st into second st from hook. *1 hdc into each of next 2 sts, 1 sl st into each of next 2 sts*, repeat from * to end. Turn.

-Repeat Rows 2 and 3.

CHEVRON

The chevron has always been a favorite of crafters, but it’s especially beloved by crocheters. Remember chevron afghans in orange and green from the 1970s? You can give your sweaters, scarves, afghans, and more that retro look with this pattern. You might also experiment with updated colors and luxury yarns for a sophisticated feel. This particular version is fairly dense, so expect any finished item you use it for to be warm.

-Worked over a multiple of 11 stitches plus 2.

-Row 1: (RS) Skip first ch, work 2 sc into second chain from hook. *1 sc into each of next 4 ch, skip 2 ch, 1 sc into each of next 4 ch, 3 sc into next ch*, rep from * to end EXCEPT work only 2 sc into last ch – 13 sts. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), work 2 sc into first st. *1 sc into each of next 4 sts, skip 2 sts, 1 sc into each of next 4 sts, 3 sc into next st*, rep from * to end EXCEPT work only 2 sc into last st. Turn.

-Repeat Row 2. For a multicolor variation, change colors after every second or fourth row.

CROSSOVER CLUSTER

Textured, but not overwhelmingly so, this fabric is created by crossing a double crochet over another double crochet, which creates a small protrusion in the fabric. The crossovers are staggered from row to row, but if you’d prefer them to be stacked, repeat Rows 2 and 3 instead of Rows 2 through 5.

-Worked over a multiple of 11 stitches plus 5.

-Crossover dc cluster (CC): Skip 1 st. Into next st, *yo, insert hook, yo and draw through, yo, insert hook, yo and draw through – 5 loops on hook. Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops.* Repeat from * into skipped stitch, working over and around first cluster.

-Row 1: (WS) Skip first two chs, work 1 sc into third chain from hook. Work 1 sc into each ch to end – 15 sts. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first st. *1 CC over next 2 sts, 1 dc into each of next 9 sts*, rep from * to last 3 sts. Work 1 CC over next 2 sts, 1 dc into last st. Turn.

-Row 3: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), skip first st, work 1 sc into each st to end. Turn.

-Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first st. *1 dc into each of next 4 sts, 1 CC over next 2 sts, 1 dc into each of next 5 sts*, rep from * to last 3 sts, work 1 dc into each of last 3 sts. Turn.

-Row 5: Work as for Row 3.

-Repeat Rows 2 through 5.

WRAPPED TREBLES

Similar to Crossover Cluster, but with taller stitches and true wraps, this pattern may look difficult at first – but once you get the hang of the wrap increase, it’s a breeze. The wraps lean in the opposite way on each treble crochet row, which gives the resulting fabric a feeling of whimsy and movement. The fabric is reversible, so either side could be considered the right side.

-Worked over a multiple of 6 stitches plus 6.

-Treble 2-wrap increase (T2W): Work 1 tc into each of next 2 sts, *yo, insert hook under posts of both tc, yo and draw loop up, yo and draw through 3 loops on hook*, rep from * – 2 sts increased.

-Row 1: Skip first 5 chs. *1 tc into each of next 2 chs, T2W over next 2 chs, 1 tc into each of next 2 chs*, rep from * to last ch, 1 tc – 12 sts. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *skip first st, 1 sc into each of next 2 sts, (sc2tog) twice, 1 sc into each of next 2 sts*, rep from * to last st, 1 sc –8 sts. Turn.

-Row 3: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), skip first st, 1 sc into each st to end of row. Turn.

-Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as first tc), *skip first st, T2W over next 2 sts, 1 tc into each of next 4 sts*, rep from * to last st, 1 tc. Turn.

-Row 5: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), *skip first st, 1 sc into each of next 4 sts, (sc2tog) twice*, rep from * to last st, 1 sc. Turn.

-Row 6: As Row 3.

-Row 7: Ch 4 (counts as first tc), *skip first st, 1 tc into each of next 2 sts, T2W over next 2 sts, 1 tc into each of next 2 sts*, rep from * to last st, 1 tc. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 through 7, ending after Row 3 or Row 6.

POPCORN STITCH

Popcorn stitch is a true crochet classic. Large puffy bubbles protrude from the fabric, making this fabric super textured and fun – imagine the attention you’d get in a hat with popcorn stitches all over it! If you prefer, you can add more flat fabric between the rows of popcorns; change the single crochet row to a double crochet row or add more rows of single crochet in between each popcorn row.

-Worked over a multiple of 5 stitches plus 5.

-Row 1: (WS) Skip first 4 chs, work 1 sc into next ch and each ch to end – 7 sts. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first st. *1 dc into each of next 2 sts, (5 dc into next st, remove loop from hook and insert through first dc of the 5, reinsert hook through loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on the hook) once, 1 dc into each of next 2 sts*, rep from * to end, 1 dc into last st. Turn.

-Row 3: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), skip first st, work 1 sc into each st to end. Turn.

-Repeat Rows 2 and 3.

BASKETWEAVE

For this pattern, you’ll need to work around the posts – from both the back and the front – but don’t let that fool you into thinking it’s too difficult. In fact, once you’ve gotten the hang of it, you’ll probably want to incorporate working around the posts into any crochet project you can, since this technique makes truly gorgeous stitch patterns. As with Wrapped Trebles, this pattern creates a reversible fabric. It’s also a popular choice for baby blankets and afghans.

-Worked over a multiple of 8 stitches plus 5.

-Double crochet around post – front (FPdc): Yarn over and insert hook around post from front to back (the hook will start at the back, move through to the front, then move back to the back). Yarn over and draw up a loop. Complete the rest of the stitch as a normal double crochet – yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and draw through remaining 2 loops.

-Double crochet around post – back (BPdc): Yarn over and insert hook around post from back to front (the hook will start at the front, move through to the back, then move back to the front). Yarn over and draw up a loop. Complete the rest of the stitch as a normal double crochet – yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and draw through remaining 2 loops.

-Row 1: Skip first 4 chs, 1 dc into each ch to end – 10 dc. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first dc, *(FPdc) four times, (BPdc) four times*, rep from * to last st, 1 dc. Turn.

-Row 3: As Row 2.

-Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first dc, *(BPdc) four times, (FPdc) four times*, rep from * to last st, 1 dc. Turn.

-Row 5: As Row 3.

-Repeat Rows 2 through 5.

CHAPTER 6: OPEN PATTERNS

Although many crocheters think of filet crochet or tatting when considering lace, delightful open patterns can just as easily be made with regular yarn crochet. These open patterns make use of empty space to create pleasingly-spaced holes; this is accomplished, mainly, by skipping over stitches and adding chain spaces. You might choose one of these patterns for your next scarf, bedspread, or dishcloth project.

STACKED DOUBLE CROCHET V’S

The open spaces in this pattern aren’t overwhelming large. They’re designed, rather, to set off double crochet stitches that gently branch into ‘v’ shapes. This gives the fabric a slightly wavy look, one perfect for scarves, socks, sweaters, and more.

-Worked over a multiple of 4 stitches plus 8.

-Row 1: (RS) Skip first 4 chs, 2 dc into fifth ch from hook, 2 dc into next ch, *skip 2 ch, 2 dc into each of next 2 ch*, rep from * until 2 chs remain, skip 1 ch, 1 dc into last ch – 10 dc. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *skip 2 sts, 2 dc into each of next 2 sts*, rep from * until 2 sts remain, skip 1 st, 1 dc into last st. Turn.

-Repeat Row 2.

EASY V LACE

This simple lacy pattern almost resembles vines or a trellis, and it’s open enough to be used for almost any project that requires lace. If you’d like to highlight the horizontal lines between the ‘v’ shapes, try working every other row through the back loop (for wide lines) or switching between working through the front and back loops on each row (for narrower lines). This pattern forms a reversible fabric, adding to its versatility.

-Worked over a multiple of 3 stitches plus 10.

-Row 1: Skip first 4 chs, 1 dc into fifth ch from hook. *Skip 1 ch, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) into next ch, skip 1 ch*, rep from * to last 2 chs, 1 dc into each – 7 sts. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first st, 1 dc into next st, * skip 1 st, (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) into next st, skip 1 st*, rep from * to last 2 sts, 1 dc into each. Turn.

-Repeat Row 2.

BRICKS

As with Easy V Lace, Bricks is a reversible pattern. This pattern, however, is much more open, with large square holes placed across the fabric in a checkerboard fashion. You could use this pattern to make a light afghan or a fun bag – choose a pretty fabric for the background and you’ll see it peeping through the holes.

-Worked over a multiple of 6 stitches plus 8.

-Row 1: Skip first 4 chs, 1 dc into fifth ch from hook. *1 dc into each of next 3 chs, ch 3 and skip over 3 foundation chs*, repeat from * to last 4 chs, 1 dc into each –11 sts (8 dc and 3 ch). Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *ch 3, 3 dc into ch-3 space*, rep from * to last 4 sts, ch 3, 1 dc into last st. Turn.

-Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *3 dc into ch-3 space, ch 3*, rep from * to last ch-3 space, 4 dc into space. Turn.

-Repeat Rows 2 and 3.

TREBLE BOARD

With holes so large you could almost drive a truck through them, this lace pattern is more open air than fabric. The resulting fabric isn’t warm, so you might reserve this pattern for decorative items. To set the shape of the squares, be sure to block your finished item.

-Worked over a multiple of 6 stitches plus 7.

-Row 1: Skip first 9 chs (counts as top ch-2 space, tc, and bottom ch-2 space), work tc into tenth chain from hook. *Ch 2, skip 2 chs, 1 tc into next ch*, repeat from * to end – 3 tc and 2 ch-2 spaces. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 6 (counts as first tc and first ch-2 space), *skip 2 chs, 1 tc into next st, ch 2*, repeat from * to end. Turn.

-Repeat Row 2.

POPCORN LACE

Not all lace must be flat. Here, popcorn stitches have been combined with open space to create a fabric that is both open and textured at the same time. Despite the open spaces, this pattern forms a very sturdy fabric, so you might use it for items that must hold their shapes yet still look dainty. Note that this fabric does have a tendency to curl, so you’ll need to block it carefully. If you prefer a denser fabric, add more rows of single crochet stitches in between the popcorn rows.

-Worked over a multiple of 5 stitches plus 3.

-Row 1: (WS) Skip first 4 chs, work 1 sc into next ch and each ch to end – 7 sts. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), skip first st, *skip next 2 sts, ch 2, (5 sc into next st, remove loop from hook and insert through first sc of the 5, reinsert hook through loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on the hook) once, skip next 2 sts, ch 2*, rep from * to last end, 1 sc into last st. Turn.

-Row 3: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), skip first st, 1 sc into each st to end. Turn.

-Repeat Rows 2 and 3.

HDC CLUSTER LACE

As far as open, lacy stitch patterns go, this is one of the sturdier ones. The spaces between the half double crochet clusters are just large enough to make the pattern feel open, while the clusters themselves add some dimension to the fabric. Because the clusters are worked on every row, they slant back and forth, which gives the pattern a feeling of movement. This pattern is reversible.

-Worked over a multiple of 2 stitches plus 5.

-Row 1: (RS) Skip first 4 chs. *Hdc2tog over next 2 chs, ch 1*, repeat from * to last st, 1 hdc into last st – 4 sts. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), skip first st, *hdc2tog over next 2 sts (ch and hdc from previous row), ch 1*, repeat from * to last st, 1 hdc into last st. Turn.

-Repeat Row 2.

CHAPTER 7: MOTIFS

Often when crocheters think of crochet motifs, they think of afghans – and with good reason. Motifs lend themselves to color experimentation, leading to stunning results when placed over the large area of an afghan. They also make crocheting a large project portable; since you’re only working one square at a time, you don’t have to hold masses of fabric in your lap. You don’t have to limit your use of motifs to afghans, however. Bags, cushion covers, scarves, hats, and sweaters can all be made from joined motifs. In fact, the only limit is your imagination.

SQUARE GRANNY

The granny square is a crochet classic, perhaps one of the most instantly recognizable of all crochet patterns. While there are many variations, the basic granny square is included here. The corners are worked as chain 3 and the spaces along the sides are worked as chain 2; for a tighter square, work chain 2 for all corners and chain 1 for all side spaces. Also, this square alternates colors with every round, but you could play with colors, working all rounds in one color or using a different color for each round.

-Round 1: With color A, ch 6 and join with sl st for working in the round. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into ring, *ch 3, 3 dc into ring*, repeat from * twice more, ch 3, sl st to top of first ch 3 to finish round. Break color A.

-Round 2: Join color B by working sl st into a ch-3 corner space. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into same space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space, *ch 2, 3 dc into next corner, ch 3, 3 dc into same corner*, repeat from * twice more, ch 2, sl st to top of first ch 3 to finish round. Break color B.

-Round 3: Join color A by working sl st into a ch-3 corner space. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into same space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space, *ch 2, 3 dc into next space, ch 2, 3 dc into corner space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space*, repeat from * twice more, ch 2, 3 dc into next space, ch 2, sl st to top of first ch 3 to finish round. Break color A.

-Round 4: Join color B by working sl st into a ch-3 corner space. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into same space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space, *ch 2, 3 dc into next space, ch 2, 3 dc into next space, ch 2, 3 dc into corner space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space*, repeat from * twice more, ch 2, 3 dc into next space, ch 2, 3 dc into next space, ch 2, sl st to top of first ch 3 to finish round. Break color B.

HEXAGON-GRANNY HYBRID

You can break away from the traditional square shape of many motifs with this hexagon. The inside starts with double crochet in the round, like the granny square, but rounds of single and double crochet build the corners of the hexagon. Crocheting through only the back loops of the stitches gives each round a defining line.

-Round 1: With color A, ch 6 and join with sl st for working in the round. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into ring, *ch 3, 3 dc into ring*, repeat from * once more, ch 3, sl st to top of first ch 3 to finish round.

-Round 2: Work 1 sl st into each of next 2 sts to reach next ch-3 space. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into same space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space, *ch 3, 3 dc into next space, ch 3, 3 dc into same space*, repeat from * once more, ch 3, sl st to top of first ch 3 to finish round. Break color A.

-Round 3: Join color B by working 1 sc into middle st of ch-3 space. For this sc and the rest of the piece, work only through the back loop of the st. Work 2 more sc into same ch. *1 sc into each of next 5 sts or chs, (3 sc) into next ch*, repeat from * around until 5 sts remain, work 1 sc into each of next 5 sts, sl st to top of first sc to finish round. Each 3 sc cluster will become a corner; there will be 6 total. Break color B.

-Round 4: Join color A by working 1 sl st into middle st of 3 sc corner. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into same st, *1 dc into each of next 7 sts, (3 dc) into next st*, repeat from * around until 7 sts remain, 1 dc into each of next 7 sts, sl st to top of first dc to finish round. Break color A.

SUNSHINE AND FLOWERS

Crocheting around the front posts of this square’s flower petals gives the piece dimension and depth, showing that motifs can be just as 3-dimensional as any other piece of crochet. As with the previous pattern, the stitches are crocheted through the back loops of the stitches to create defining lines. For a simple yet beautiful afghan, combine this square with the following square (Vanilla); alternate the two squares across each row to create a checkerboard pattern. Because Vanilla is a flat square, the eye will be drawn to the textured squares, causing them to pop.

-Double crochet around post – front (FPdc): Yarn over and insert hook around post from front to back (the hook will start at the back, move through to the front, then move back to the back). Yarn over and draw up a loop. Complete the rest of the stitch as a normal double crochet – yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and draw through remaining 2 loops.

-Round 1: With color A, ch 4 and join with sl st for working in the round. Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), work 7 hdc into ring – 8 hdc.

-Round 2: *Ch 3, join with sl st into next st*, rep from * around, working last sl st into first st – 8 petals created. Break color A.

-Round 3: Join color B with 1 sl st behind first petal – work into the back of the hdc so that the sl st isn’t visible from the front. *FPdc around the post of the petal, ch 3*, rep from * to end, sl st to top of first FPdc – 8 ch-3 spaces created.

-Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), 4 hdc into same space – for these hdc and the rest of the piece, work only through the back loop of the st. *Work 5 hdc into next ch space*, rep from * around – 40 hdc. Sl st to top of first ch 2 to finish the round. Break color B.

-Round 5: Join color A with 1 sl st into last st of previous round. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), *1 dc into each of next 9 sts, (dc, ch 3, dc) into next st*, rep from * until 9 sts remain. Work 1 dc into each st; into the first st (the one with the ch 3), work 1 dc, ch 3, then sl st to top of first ch 3 to finish the round – 4 corner spaces created. Break color A.

-Round 6: Join color C by working 1 sc into corner space. Work 3 more sc into same space, *1 sc into each of next 11 sts, (4 sc) into corner space*, rep from * to last 11 sts, work 1 sc into each of next 11 sts, sl st to top of first sc to finish the round. Break color C.

VANILLA

Crocheting around the post, creating bobbles, working through the front loop – advanced techniques are fun (and create beautiful stitches), but sometimes it’s good to get back to the basics. This plain single crochet square is perfect for drawing attention to fancier, more intricate pieces. You might think of it as a simple and elegant picture frame that sets off a brilliant painting. Of course, it’s also a great square for beginners to start with, too!

-Note: Sunshine and Flowers and Vanilla are designed to be equal in size. Sample gauge is 3.5 stitches per inch using a size U.S.8/5.00mm crochet hook and worsted weight yarn; this creates a square that is 5 inches by 5 inches.

-Row 1: With color A, ch 16, skip first 2 chs, work 1 sc into third ch from hook, 1 sc into each ch to end – 15 sc. Turn.

-Row 2: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), skip first st, 1 sc into each st to end. Turn.

-Row 3: Drop color A (do not cut), pick up color B. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), skip first st, 1 sc into each st to end. Turn.

-Row 4: As Row 2.

-Row 5: Drop color B (do not cut), pick up color A. Ch 1 (counts as first sc), skip first st, 1 sc into each st to end. Turn.

-Row 6: As Row 2.

-Repeat Rows 3 through 6 three times more – 9 stripes total. Cut both color A and B.

-Border: Join color C by working 1 sc into last st worked. *Sc 14 along side, 2 sc into last st on top, 16 sc along next side, 2 sc into last st of side*, rep from * once more EXCEPT work only 1 sc into last st – the same st where first sc of round was placed. Sl st to top of first sc to finish border. Cut yarn.

TWIRLY

Here’s a simple motif with playful corners; the roundness of these corners echoes the large circle upon which the square is built. Because this piece isn’t an even square, you might choose to join these motifs only at the corners; this will create a very open and loose afghan (or other project). This piece is worked in a single color, but you might play with the colors and change every round or every other round.

-Round 1: Ch 5 and join with sl st for working in the round. Ch 4 (counts as first tc), 19 tc into ring – 20 tc. Sl st to top of first ch 4 to finish round.

-Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), *1 hdc into each of next 4 sts, (1 hdc, ch 3, 1 hdc) into next st*, rep from * to end of round, sl st to top of first ch 2 to finish round – 24 hdc and 4 ch-3 spaces.

-Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), *1 hdc into each st to corner, 4 hdc into corner*, repeat from * to end of round, sl st to top of first ch 2 to finish round – 40 hdc.

-Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), 1 hdc into each of next 7 sts, *(1 hdc into next stitch, ch 6, 1 hdc into next stitch), 1 hdc into each of next 8 sts*, repeat from * to last 2 sts, (1 hdc into next stitch, ch 6, 1 hdc into next stitch). Sl st to top of first ch 3 to finish round – 40 hdc and 4 ch-6 spaces.

-Round 5: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), *1 hdc into each st to corner, 12 hdc into corner*, repeat from * to end of round, sl st to top of first ch 2 to finish round.

NOW FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT

If you’re searching for a way to shake up your motif knitting, why not break away from the most often-used shapes? Sure, squares, circles, and hexagons create beautiful pieces – but what about taking a page out of a quilter’s book and playing with tessellations or flipped shapes? This motif may look odd at first glance, but once you’ve made several, you’ll begin to see its true potential. Five placed together with the middles pointing inward will make a hexagon. Or, you might see what happens when you create strips, flipping each one as you place them together. Feel free to let your imagination be your guide.

-sc2tog - skip: Perform a standard single crochet decrease over 2 sts EXCEPT skip 1 st between the 2 sts being worked – 2 sts decreased.

-Row 1: Ch 24, skip first 2 chs, 1 sc into third ch from hook and into each of next 8 chs. Work sc2tog - skip. Work 1 sc into each ch to end – 21 sts. Turn.

-Row 2 and all even rows: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 1 sc into each st to end. Turn.

-Row 3: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 1 sc into each of next 8 sts, sc2tog - skip, 1 sc into each of next 9 sts – 19 sts. Turn.

-Row 5: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 1 sc into each of next 7 sts, sc2tog - skip, 1 sc into each of next 8 sts –17 sts. Turn.

-Row 7: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 1 sc into each of next 6 sts, sc2tog - skip, 1 sc into each of next 7 sts –15 sts. Turn.

-Row 9: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 1 sc into each of next 5 sts, sc2tog - skip, 1 sc into each of next 6 sts –13 sts. Turn.

-Row 11: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 1 sc into each of next 4 sts, sc2tog - skip, 1 sc into each of next 5 sts –11 sts. Turn.

-Row 13: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 1 sc into each of next 3 sts, sc2tog - skip, 1 sc into each of next 4 sts – 9 sts. Turn.

-Row 15: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 1 sc into each of next 2 sts, sc2tog - skip, 1 sc into each of next 3 sts –7 sts. Turn.

-Row 17: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), 1 sc into next st, sc2tog - skip, 1 sc into each of next 2 sts – 5 sts. Turn.

-Row 19: Ch 1 (counts as first sc), sc2tog - skip, 1 sc into next st –3 sts. Turn.

-Row 21: Work sc2tog - skip. 1 st – break yarn.

CHAPTER 8: A NOTE ABOUT DIFFICULTY LEVELS

As mentioned in Chapter 1, the patterns in this work are neither sorted by difficulty level nor marked with level information. Crocheters who’re curious about the difficulty level of each, though, will find the information they seek here, where the patterns in the work have been divided into three levels: beginner, intermediate, and advanced. But don’t let these designations stop you from trying something new. Remember, it’s just yarn – and you can always unravel it.

BEGINNER

-Single Crochet (Chapter 4)

-Half Double Crochet (Chapter 4)

-Double Crochet (Chapter 4)

-Half Treble Crochet (Chapter 4)

-Treble Crochet (Chapter 4)

-Easy V Lace (Chapter 6)

-Treble Board (Chapter 6)

-Square Granny (Chapter 7)

-Vanilla (Chapter 7)

INTERMEDIATE

-Single Crochet Through Back Loops (Chapter 4)

-Chunky Waves (Chapter 5)

-Chevron (Chapter 5)

-Stacked Double Crochet Vs (Chapter 6)

-Bricks (Chapter 6)

-HDC Cluster Lace (Chapter 6)

-Hexagon-Granny Hybrid (Chapter 7)

-Twirly (Chapter 7)

-Now for Something Completely Different (Chapter 7)

ADVANCED

-Crossover Cluster (Chapter 5)

-Wrapped Trebles (Chapter 5)

-Popcorn Stitch (Chapter 5)

-Basketweave (Chapter 5)

-Popcorn Lace (Chapter 6)

-Sunshine and Flowers (Chapter 7)

OTHER BOOKS BY THIS AUTHOR

Please visit http://goo.gl/1RbZ5Q to discover other books by Amy Wright.

United Kingdom Readers Please Visit: http://goo.gl/oxrQlM

“Crochet Patterns For Beginners”

“Crochet Stitches For Beginners”

“Learn How to Crochet Quick And Easy”