Crocheting: BoxSet: The Complete Guide on Learning How to Crochet From Beginner to Expert
Author: Dorothy Wilks
Date: 2015-02-02T07:00:00+00:00
Description: Box Set: The Complete Guide on Learning How to Crochet from Beginner to Expert Learn the Basic from Reading Patterns, Corner 2 Corner Technique, Ripple and Wave Technique, Intarsia Crochet, Fair Isle Crochet, Tapestry Crochet, Filet Crochet and Broomstick Lace Hello and thank you for purchasing this Box Set on How to Crochet. Together we will learn the basic stitches and techniques used in the art of crochet. We’ll also learn about the hooks and equipment you need to start out and all about yarn and its various uses. Next we’ll pick up hook and yarn and get started on some basic projects. My g

Box Set: The Complete Guide on Learning How to Crochet from Beginner to Expert

Book 1

Crochet for Beginners

The Complete Guide on the Basics of Crochet

Hello and thank you for purchasing this book on beginning crochet. Together we will learn the basic stitches and techniques used in the art of crochet. We’ll also learn about the hooks and equipment you need to start out and all about yarn and its various uses. Next we’ll pick up hook and yarn and get started on some basic projects. My goal for this book is to spark a love of crochet in you and help you get started on this popular and timeless fiber art. Even if you’ve never crocheted before, once you’ve completed the projects in this book you’ll be able to read and work basic and beginning patterns. I will also share some great crochet resources to help you expand your new found skills. So are you ready to get started? Well then, let’s begin!

Contents

Chapter One – The Right Equipment

Chapter Two – Know Your Yarn

Chapter Three – Basic Terminology

Chapter Four –Reading Patterns

Chapter Five – Basic Crochet Stitches

Chapter Six – Basic Crochet Techniques

Crochet Resources

Video Links

Pattern Links

Image Attributions

Chapter One – The Right Equipment

Before we begin you’ll need some basic equipment. This includes crochet hooks, shears, stitch markers, a row counter, and a bag or tote to store your yarn, works in progress, and equipment. You don’t need to spend a fortune on good quality equipment. A nice set of aluminum crochet hooks, a good pair of shears, and some simple stitch markers are all you really need to get started. In this chapter we’ll cover the basic equipment you’ll need and the proper way to use it.

Crochet Hooks

Crochet hooks come in various sizes from very small almost needle like hooks used with thread to huge hooks used to create rugs. For the beginner I recommend purchasing a good quality hook set with sized from US E to US K. These will be the sizes used for most patterns for all skill levels. You can find hooks with comfort grips if you have problems with arthritis or holding a hook. You can also make your own grips with clay. Some of the other materials used for hooks include steel, bamboo, various woods, and plastic. A good quality set of aluminum hooks are perfect for the beginner, and will serve you for many years.

A crochet hook is pretty straight forward. Most hooks have an indentation in the handle called the grip or pad that you use to grip the hook. There are two basic types of lips and thread guides. Boye hooks have a more rounded thread guide while Bates hooks are more angular. Which type of hook you use is purely personal preference. I’ve used both types and really can’t tell much difference in them. But some diehard fans swear by their favorite brand, so check them out and see which ones you prefer.

As you advance in your skills you may want to try out Tunisian crochet. This type of crochet uses a long hook to hold the stitches. It looks very similar to a long knitting needle with a crochet hook on one end. You can also find Tunisian crochet hooks with a long piece of plastic or metal used to hold many stitches. These look similar to circular knitting needles with a hook on one end. Circular Tunisian crochet hooks are used for very large projects such as a kind size afghan. You can also find double ended crochet hooks. These are used for more advance techniques similar to Tunisian crochet.

Crochet Hook Sizes

Crochet hooks come in many sizes. As I mentioned before steel hooks with very small hook sizes are used for delicate thread and lace work. Steel hooks are sized differently than other hooks. When using steel hooks you must remember that the higher the number the smaller the hook, for example the largest hook size is 00 while the smallest is size 14.

Most patterns use crochet hook sizes from US E/4 (3.5mm) to US K/10.5 (6.5mm). Patterns use both the letter size and the millimeter size. Use this handy chart from the Craft Yarn Council to refer to the various hook sizes. This chart is also a handy reference if you find patterns not written in US terminology.

How to Hold a Crochet Hook

There are two camps of thought when it comes to holding a crochet hook. One is the pencil hold and one is the knife hold. As the names imply if you use a pencil hold you’ll hold your hook like a pencil. If you use a knife hold you will hold your hook like you would a table knife. Both techniques are correct, and both techniques produce the exact same stitches. Which hold you use is up to you. Try them both out and see which one feels best to you. Personally I’ve always held my hook like a pencil. That is how my mother and grandmother taught me. But Mikey from The Crochet Crowd uses the knife hold in all of his video tutorials, but we both end up with the same finished product. So don’t let anyone tell you that you hold your hook wrong. Either way is fine; just do what feels natural to you.

In this image you can see the hook is held like a knife.

This image shows the hook held like a pencil.

Stitch Markers

Stitch markers are used to mark the beginning of a pattern repeat, the beginning of a round when crocheting in the round, and color changes. There are many different types and styles of stitch markers you can find from simple plastic clip on ones to ornate beaded ones. You might even want to try your hand at making your own stitch markers with safety pins and beads. I’ve even used a bobby pin in a pinch, or a contrasting piece of yarn as a stitch marker. Just be sure to use stitch markers that are removable so that you don’t crochet them into your work.

Other Equipment for Beginners

You will need a pair of scissor (shears) which you only use for cutting yarn, thread, and fabric. Let everyone in your family know these shears are hands-off and only for your crochet work. This keeps them nice and sharp. Cutting paper will dull shears and when you go to use them you’ll notice a big difference in how they cut.

A row counter is another handy little tool to have. You use it to keep track of which row you are on in your pattern. Many patterns have row repeats to achieve the proper look. You can find row counters in many different styles. You can even use a piece of paper and a pencil to keep track of your rows by writing down the row numbers or using hash marks.

You will also want to purchase a bag or tote to store your crochet supplies. This will keep your projects away from curious little hands or paws. I have cats and I have to keep my yarn, supplies, and works in progress in a covered tote. My cats love to explore boxes and bags so I needed something with a locking top to keep them out of everything. As you expand your yarn stash and skills you may want to get some sturdy shelving to organize your crochet supplies. I dream of turning my guest room into a craft room and I’m always on Pinterest looking at the many ideas. A girl can dream right?

This is a handy idea!

Chapter Two – Know Your Yarn

I have a confession: I love yarn. Yes there I said it! Once you discover all of the different textures, materials, and colors out there in the world of yarn I’m sure you’ll be a yarn addict, too. When you are starting out invest in good quality yarn, but don’t break the bank. While hand spun, hand dyed artisan yarn is a treasure and a dream to work with, save this type of yarn for later when you’re more confident in your skills. There’s plenty of good quality medium priced yarn to be had in a wide variety of colors and textures.

In this chapter we’ll go over the different types of fiber used to make yarn and how to read a yarn label.

Yarn Fibers

Yarn is made from three basic types of fibers; animal, plant, and synthetic. Each one has its best use and each one has its own properties for caring and working with it. Most yarn fiber arrives to the factory in bales. These bales are combed and washed and then spun into yarn through various methods. Most yarn fibers arrive at the yarn manufacturing facility already dyed. Hand dyed yarn is expensive, but it is unique and not two balls are exactly alike.

Animal Fibers

Alpacas used for yarn fibers

Wool, mohair, alpaca, mohair, angora, and silk are examples of the various animal fibers to produce yarn. Wool is a very popular choice and creates a soft fabric which has a lot of warmth and has a lot of give. Wool comes from sheep and is found in many different colors and weights.

Alpaca yarn is from the animal of the same name and has a bit of sheen to it. It is also very warm and soft to the touch. Alpaca yarn is a nice alternative to wool and the fabric has a nice drape to it.

Goats produce the fibers used for mohair yarn. Soft mohair yarn is from young goats while coarser mohair comes from older goats. Mohair yarn can be dyed with very vivid colors and holds these colors very well.

Cashmere yarn is produced from the fur from the underbelly of a specific breed of goat. Angora yarn comes from the Angora rabbit. Both types of yarn are very luxurious and soft. Both types of yarn also have a beautiful drape. These yarns are quite expensive and a real treat to use.

Silk fibers come from the silkworm and are normally blended with other fibers to give the yarn strength, shine, and texture. Silk is a very pretty addition to yarn and you can find some very beautiful

Plant Fibers

Yarn made with plant fibers is very strong and holds color well. Plant fiber yarns can be a bit stiff to work with until you get used to them, but they are perfect for making kitchen and bath items as well as summer garments.

Flax field

Cotton fibers are used to create a very durable and sturdy material. It comes in many different weights and can be used for delicate cotton thread used in lace work and doilies to bulky weight yarn used for mats and rugs.

Bamboo is also used to make a very sturdy yarn which has more sheen than cotton. Fabric crocheted with bamboo thread has a very pretty stitch definition and a nice drape.

Flax fibers are used to create linen yarn. Linen is an excellent choice for summer garments because it wicks away moisture and the fabric breathes. It is very durable and comes in many shades.

Hemp fibers are used to create another sturdy plant based yarn. Hemp yarn can be used in any project which calls for cotton or bamboo. It comes in a wide variety of colors and textures.

Synthetic Fibers

One of the most popular types of yarn is acrylic. Acrylic yarn is produced from synthetic petroleum based fibers. It can be dyed into many different colors, is durable, and very easy to work with. There are many different types of acrylic yarn ranging from thin fingerling yarn to big chunky bulky yarn. Acrylic yarn also comes in many textures. It is easy to work with and has some give, making it the perfect choice for the beginner.

You can find acrylic yarn with sequins, beads, and other types of embellishments. Eyelash yarn is a fun acrylic to work with. It has little fibers which resemble eyelashes and is used with other types of yarn to create very pretty embellishments on many projects. Fun fur is another fun acrylic yarn. You can create faux fur pieces easily with this type of synthetic yarn.

Variegated Acrylic Yarn

Other types of synthetic yarn include nylon, polyester, and microfiber. These fibers are normally blended with other types of yarn to add elasticity, sheen, and texture.

Yarn Weights

Yarn comes in different weights from fingerling used for lace work and baby items to super bulky. Yarn manufacturers use a standardized system for yarn weight. The Craft Yarn Council has a handy chart which shows the different yarn weights and what they are used for. You can go to the site and download a PDF file so you can print it out and use it as a reference when you shop for yarn.

Standard Yarn Weight System

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes

Yarn Label Information

The yarn label is the place to find all of the information you need to select the correct yarn for your projects. On a yarn label you will find the fiber content, weight, dye lot number (most yarns do not have dye lots, but some still use them), care, gauge, and recommended hook size. Understanding the information on a yarn label is essential for a beginner. In this chapter we’ll cover the information found on yarn labels so that you can make the best choice when shopping for yarn.

Most major yarn manufacturers use a set of standardized yarn care symbols. Artisan and private label yarns may not use these symbols, but most brands such as Red Heart, Lion Brand, Caron, Paton, and I Love This Yarn use these standardized symbols. You can find the complete list on the Lion Brand site where you can print them out for easy reference.

In the following example we can see that this yarn can be machine washed in water no hotter than 104 degree, and it can be machine dried. The yarn is a medium weight yarn and the manufacturer recommends using a US I/9 crochet hook to obtain a gauge of 14 stitches and 16 rows in a four by four square of fabric.

One of the most important pieces of information you can find on a yarn label is the gauge. Gauge refers to the amount of stitches across a row and how many rows it takes to create a four by four inch swatch. Almost every pattern you come across states the gauge. Before you start a pattern you should use the recommended hook size and crochet up a four by four inch square and compare the amount of stitches in a row and how many rows you end up with to the stated gauge for the pattern. If your gauge is larger you will either have to tighten up your tension or use a smaller hook. On the other hand if your gauge is less than the pattern either loosen up your tension or use a larger hook.

Don’t skip making a gauge swatch when you’re starting out. As an experienced crocheter I still make gauge swatches. Believe me they will save you time and headaches, so make it a habit of using them.

Skeins, Balls, and Hanks

Most of the yarn you will find in retail stores comes in skeins. Skeins are easy to use and you normally don’t need to roll the yarn up in balls. Make sure you pull the yarn from the center to keep the yarn from tangling.

If the yarn comes in a ball you can use it just as it is without rerolling it. Place the yarn ball in a small bowl to keep if from rolling away while you’re working with it.

Many animal fiber yarns and hand spun yarns come in hanks. You cannot work from a hank, don’t even try! What you’ll end up with is a tangled mess. Hanks must be rolled into balls or cakes. You can find manual and electric yarn winders which will save you time and headaches. Swifts are also used with winders to hold the yarn while it is being wound. Expand the swift to hold the hank of yarn, thread the winder and then slowly wind the yarn into a ball or cake.

Yarn Tips

Now that we’ve covered the basic information you need to know about yarn, I want to share some tips with you that I’ve learned over the years.

Read the yarn label and understand the information contained on it. A yarn label is your best source for knowing the weight, fiber content, recommended hook, care instructions, and gauge.

If the yarn you choose has a dye lot number purchase more of the same dye lot than you need. Not all yarns have dye lots today, but if they do it is a good practice to have more yarn than you need so that you don’t run out and the color changes when you add new yarn.

You can substitute yarn brands as long as they are the same weight and fiber content. For example if the pattern calls for Vanna’s Choice but you only have Red Heart just make sure the yarns are the same weights. This will ensure your project comes out as you expect it to.

Save the expensive yarns for later. If you see yarn you must have, to ahead and purchase it and save it for later. For now stick to mid-range yarns that are easy to work with and easy to care for.

Try not to smoke around your yarn stash or while you’re crocheting. Yarn picks up odors very easily and if you’re making a gift you don’t want your project to smell like cigarette smoke. If you receive yarn as a gift and it has an odor you can place it in a pillow case, knot the pillow case and wash and dry it on the gentle cycle. This usually removes odors from yarn and keeps the yarn balls and skeins intact.

Chapter Three – Basic Terminology

Crochet like any other craft or art form has its own language. Patterns use abbreviations to make the patterns easier to read and understand. In this chapter we’ll go over the basic terminology you’ll need to understand the wonderful world of crochet. As you become more familiar with crochet and are involved in groups on Facebook and other social media sites you’ll learn new terminology, but for now let’s go over the basic terms and meanings. (All of the terms in this book are in US form.)

Stitch Abbreviations

Chain – ch

Double crochet – dc

Half double crochet – hdc

Single crochet – sc

Skip stitch – sk or sk st

Slip stitch – sl st

Stitch – st

Treble or triple crochet – tr or trb

Special Stitch Abbreviations

Back loop - bl

Back post – bp

Back post double crochet – bpdc

Back post single crochet – bpsc

Double crochet two stitches together – dc2tog

Front loop – fl

Front post – fp

Front post double crochet – fpdc

Front post single crochet – fpsc

Single crochet two stitches together – sc2tog

General Terms Found in Patterns

Approximately – app

Between – bet

Chain space – ch sp

Continue – cont

Contrasting Color – CC

Decrease – dec

Follow/following/follows – foll

Gram – g

Inch – “

Increase – inc

Main Color – MC

Millimeter - mm

Previous – prev

Repeat – rep

Right Side – RS

Round – rnd

Space - sp

Turning chain – tch

Wrong Side – WS

Yarn over – yo

Yarn over hook – yoh

Pattern Repeats

[ ] Work instructions in the brackets the appropriate number of times called for by your pattern

( ) Work instructions in parenthesis the appropriate number of times called for by your pattern

* Denotes the beginning of a pattern repeat.

* * Work the instructions between the asterisks as a pattern repeat as many times as called for by your pattern.

Decrease and Increase

When you see 2tog in a pattern this is also known as a decrease. You will be working two stitches together. If the pattern calls for an increase two stitches are worked in once space. (We’ll go over how to do these techniques in a later chapter.) You can find a master list of crochet terms at the Craft Yarn Council website.

Crochet Slang

Like all hobbies and art forms crochet also has its own set of slang terms. You’ll see these on social media sites and hear them when crocheters are discussing their craft.

CAL – Crochet along; an event where everyone works on the same project, usually held online

Design Element – another term for mistake

FOTH – Fresh off the hook

Frog or Frogging – to rip out stitches (rip it rip it like a frog…)

Hooker – a term of endearment other crochet enthusiasts use for each other

HOTH – Hot off the hook

LYS – Local yarn store

Project of Doom – the project that is driving you crazy but you have to finish it

Scrumble – A form of freeform crochet in which you use different types of yarn and other media

Stash – Your yarn collection

UFO – Unfinished object

WIM – Work in mind

WIP – Works in progress

Yarn Barf – This term refers to the wad of yarn that comes out in one clump when you pull the end from a skein or ball of yarn. It is usually a tangled mess and a very common occurrence.

Yarn Bomb – A decorative work of crochet used to decorate a public piece of property, usually done to cover up an eye sore.

Yarn Cake – When you use a ball winder you end up with balls of yarn which resemble small cakes.

Chapter Four –Reading Patterns

Now that we’ve covered the basic terminology used in crochet it’s time to move onto reading and understanding patterns. This is an essential skill all beginners need to master. If you can read and understand patterns you open up a whole new world of creative possibilities. In this chapter we’ll go over a basic pattern step by step to help you understand how to read and work it.

Before you begin to work a pattern look at the entire pattern; check the type of yarn you need, the quantity of the yarn, the hook size, and the gauge. Look for any special stitches or instructions needed for the pattern. Next read through the actual pattern to make sure you understand the stitches and how they all work together. This will keep you from having any surprises or getting stuck because you don’t know how to work a stitch. If you find any stitches you’re unfamiliar with look them up at one of the resource links in the back of this book to find a video or written instructions guiding you through the stitch.

We’ll use Red Heart’s Buttoned Up Cuffs designed by Lorene Eppolite to learn how to read a pattern. Cuffs and wrist warmers are very popular right now and a great project for the beginner.

First check for the skill level on the pattern; this pattern is rated for beginners so it’s perfect to start with. Next check the yarn and the quantity you’ll need. For this pattern you will need one ball of Red Heart Reflective in Pink. You can use this yarn or you can substitute it for any medium weight worsted yarn. You will also need a size US J/10 (6mm) crochet hook, a yarn needle, and four ½ inch buttons along with a needle and thread to sew on the buttons. You will use the yarn needle to work in the ends of your yarn (we’ll cover how to do this in a future chapter).

The next important piece of information is the gauge. If you take the yarn called for and the hook the pattern specifies and crochet single crochet stitches to make three rows with 15 stitches your swatch should measure 1 ¼ inches high and five inches wide. If it doesn’t you may need to go up or down a hook size or adjust your tension to get the correct gauge. Gauge is important because the pattern designer used it to get the pattern’s size.

The special instructions for this pattern state that the directions are written for small with medium and large in parentheses. So if you need to make a larger size you would follow the directions inside the parentheses and ignore the other directions.

The pattern also gives you the finished dimensions for each size.

At the end of the pattern you will also find any abbreviations you need to know to work the pattern.

Now we get to the meat of the pattern; how to work it. You see that you will be making two cuffs and you start by chaining 24 (we’ll use the small size for our illustration).

Row 1 starts with a half double crochet in the third chain from the hook. The first three chain stitches count as the first half double crochet. This is a common direction in most patterns. The first two or three chain stitches count as the first stitch unless otherwise specified. Now work a half double crochet into each chain stitch until the end. If you count your stitches you will have 23 half double crochet stitches counting the first three chain stitches as the first half double crochet. Turn your work and you are ready to start Row 2.

Row 2 begins with a chain two. Notice that this does NOT COUNT as the first stitch from now on. Half double crochet into the first stitch. (This is the first half double crochet of the previous row.) Chain one, skip the next stitch and work a half double crochet in the remaining stitches. You should now have 22 half double crochet and one chain stitch. Turn your work.

Row 3 starts with chain two. Work a half double crochet into each stitch and into the chain one space across. You will have 23 stitches in this row. Turn your work.

Rows 4 and 5 are repeats of rows 2 and 3. Once you work rows 2 and three again leave about a six inch tail and cut your yarn.

Once you have both cuffs crocheted it is time to finish them. The chain one spaces serve as button holes. Line them up with the opposite ends of the cuffs and sew on two buttons onto each cuff. Thread a tapestry needle with the tails you left and weave them in and out of the stitches going back and forth to secure them. Now you have two pretty wrist cuffs to wear or give as a gift.

Tips for Reading Patterns

I want you to be comfortable reading patterns so here are some tips for reading and understanding patterns.

Look over the entire pattern before you start to work it.

Check any special instructions or stitches you need to know before you start.

Be sure you have enough yarn before you begin. You don’t want to get almost done only to find that you haven’t purchased enough yarn. It’s better to purchase too much yarn than not enough.

Gather up all the supplies you’ll need to be sure you have the correct hook and all of the accessories you will need.

Take your time and relax!

Chapter Five – Basic Crochet Stitches

Now that we’ve covered the equipment you’ll need, learned all about yarn, and how to read a pattern it’s time to start to learn basic crochet stitches. All stitch patterns are a combination of the basic stitches which include single crochet, double crochet, half double crochet, and treble (triple) crochet stitches. It is how you combine this stitches which determines the way the stitch pattern works up.

Chain Stitch and Foundation Chains

Just about every new piece of crochet starts with a foundation of chain stitches. First make a slip knot and place it on your hook.

Take the yarn and place it over the hook and draw it through the slip knot. This is your first chain stitch. Put the yarn over the hook and draw it through this chain stitch. Now you have two chain stitches. You don’t count the knot from the slip know, and you don’t count the loop on your hook when you are counting stitches. Your pattern will tell you how many chain stitches you need to make.

Single Crochet

Once you have your foundation chain crocheted you can now build upon it with other stitches. You don’t work into the loop which is on the hook, and you don’t work into the very first chain stitch. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook. Place the yarn over the hook and draw it through the stitch. You now have two loops on your hook. Yarn over and draw it through both loops. This is a single crochet stitch.

Insert the hook into the next stitch and yarn over, pull the yarn through the stitch, yarn over and then pull through both loops on the hook. This is the second single crochet. Continue to do this process across the row or as many times as the pattern calls for.

Double Crochet

The double crochet stitch is one of the most popular stitches you can learn. It is the base for puff stitches, clusters, shells, and many other stitches. Before you insert the hook into the next stitch place the yarn over the hook, insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through the stitch. You now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull it through the first two loops, yarn over and pull it through the last two loops. This is a double crochet stitch. You will notice it is taller than a single crochet and it produces a looser fabric than single crochet.

Half Double Crochet

The half double crochet stitch is used a lot for hats and afghans. It is not quite as tall as a double crochet. Yarn over the hook and insert the hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull it through the stitch. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all three loops on the hook. This is a half double crochet stitch.

The first image shows working a half double crochet on a foundation chain. Skip the first two chains and insert the hook into the third chain from the hook. The second image shows working a half double crochet at the beginning of a new row.

Treble Crochet

You will see the terms treble and triple crochet used interchangeably in patterns. Both terms mean the same stitch. A treble crochet is similar to a double crochet, but it is much taller and you yarn over twice before you insert the hook into the next stitch.

Yarn over twice and insert the hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. You will now have four loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops, yarn over and pull through two loops, and finally yarn over once more and pull through all of the remaining loops on the hook. This is a treble crochet stitch.

Back Loop Crochet Stitches

Back loop stitches create a pretty ridge along the base of the stitch. If you look at a crochet stitch you will see the top two loops form a V. To crochet a back loop stitch simply insert the hook ONLY into the back loop instead of through both loops of the V. Work the stitch as normal.

Front Loop Crochet Stitches

Front loops stitches are used to continue the ridge on the wrong side of the fabric. The ridge will show up on the right side of the fabric. Insert the hook into ONLY the front loop of the V of the next stitch. Front and back loop stitches will be a bit looser than normal stitches, but they are just as sturdy.

Shell Stitch

Shell stitches make a very pretty edging for lots of projects. Your pattern will tell you how many double crochet stitches to use for a shell. Normally it is at least three, usually up to five or six. To work shell stitches simply work the correct number of stitches into one stitch. This will form a pretty shell. For example work a double crochet into the next stitch. Now instead of moving to the next stitch, work another double crochet into the same stitch. Continue working double crochet stitches into the same stitch for as many times as your pattern calls for.

Puff Stitch

The puff stitch adds a lot of texture and a pretty effect to crochet. It is similar to the shell stitch, but you wait to pull the last yarn over until you have all of the stitches worked. Yarn over and insert the hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull through, you now have three loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through the first two loops. Yarn over and insert the hook into the SAME stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch, yarn over and pull through the first two loops. Now you have three loops on the hook. Yarn over and insert the hook, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook. You now have four loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all four loops at once. You will always have one more loop on the hook than you have puff stitches.

Popcorn Stitch

The popcorn stitch is a cute stitch that adds puffs of texture to crochet fabric. It is worked in the same manner as the puff stitch, but you do not pull the yarn through the loops on the hook until the very end. Yarn over and insert the hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and insert the hook into the SAME stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and insert the hook into the SAME stitch, yarn over and pull through. You will now have seven loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all seven loops, chain one to lock the stitch.

V Stitch

The V stitch is a very versatile stitch used in a lot of projects. To crochet a V stitch work a double crochet stitch in the next stitch, chain one, and then work another double crochet into the SAME stitch. Skip the next stitch and repeat.

Chapter Six – Basic Crochet Techniques

In this chapter we’ll learn the basic crochet techniques you need to learn as a beginner. The techniques we’ll cover are crocheting in the round, changing colors at the beginning of the row and in the middle of a row, how to join yarn when you run out or your yarn breaks, and more crochet techniques you can use to make your projects work up easily and make your life much easier.

Crocheting in the Round

You will use this technique for lots of project such as hat. After you have made your foundation chain insert the hook into the first chain, yarn over and draw the yarn through the chain and the loop on your hook. This is known as joining. I would highly recommend you attach a stitch marker to the joining chain. You now have a circle of stitches. Once you start to go around your project it will become very hard to tell where the round begins.

As you crochet in the round you’ll notice your seam is moving in a diagonal direction. This is normal and just the way the patterns work up. This is particularly true if you have decreased or increased during the pattern. While counting your stitches is always important, when you crochet in the round counting your stitches is essential so that your project turns out correctly.

Magic Ring

When you use a foundation chain and join it with a slip stitch you end up with a tiny hole in the center of your round. While in most projects this is perfectly acceptable, there are some times when you want the circle to be closed. This is where knowing how to do a magic ring comes in handy.

Now I will admit learning this technique takes some practice. I had to watch a video several times before it finally clicked and I can now do it without having to look it up. (You can find the link to the video in the Resources chapter.)

Take the yarn and lay it on the palm of your hand and drape it over your index finger. Wrap the yarn around your index and middle finger and hold the end connected to the skein with your little finger. Insert the hook under the loop on your index finger and grab the yarn. Draw it through the loop and then grab the yarn again and draw it through the loop on your hook. Continue to crochet the beginning stitches of the first round around the loop. When you’ve completed the stitches grab the loose tail of yarn and gently draw it up until the stitches meet. You can then join the stitches and you will have a solid circle of stitches to work with.

Changing Colors

Using different colors is one of the fun things about crochet. For the beginner changing colors may seem like a daunting task, but it is very easy. If you have reached the end of a row and want to change colors simply work the last stitch until you have two loops on your hook. Pick up the new color and draw it through the two loops. Turn your work and do the chain stitches for first stitch of the next row and gently pull the old color and the new color snug. Leave a six inch tail of the old color so you can weave it in.

If you need to change colors in mid-row you can use the exact same technique. Work the last stitch of the old color until you have two loops on your hook, grab the new color and pull it through. Work a few of the next stitches and then pull the colors snug. Don’t pull them too tightly or you will pucker your fabric. Leave a six inch tail to weave in later.

There are a few tricks you can use to take care of those pesky tails so that you don’t have a bunch of them to weave in at the end. You can capture the tails of the yarn under the new stitches. To do this make sure your hook goes under both the new color and the old color’s tails and capture them into your stitches until you reach the end of the tails. Another technique is to take the tails and weave them in and out of the stitches of the previous row and then crochet making sure you place the hook under the tails. This is a very good way to secure your tails and avoid having to weave in a bunch of them when you’re done.

Weaving in Tails

This is a job very few like to do, but you must do it to secure the tails of your yarn. The best method I have found it to use a tapestry or yarn needle and sew the tails into your stitches. Insert the needle under the loops of your stitches and reverse the direction about three times. This really secures the ends of the yarn and they won’t work their way out of the fabric.

How to Join Yarn

Sometimes when you’re crocheting along you run out of yarn. So now what do you do? In this section we’ll cover two different methods to a seamless join so that you can keep on crocheting without having to frog your work back to the beginning of a row.

Spit Splicing

The first method can only be used for animal fiber yarns such as wool, alpaca, cashmere, and other types of animal fibers. Do not try to use this method on plant and synthetic yarns because they do not naturally felt up. And yes you will use spit. Your spit contains enzymes which help break down the yarn fibers and when paired with the heat caused by the friction of rubbing your palms together the yarn naturally felts and joins itself.

First fray the ends of the old and new yarn. Now lick the palms of your hands and place the yarns in on hand with the ends overlapping. Rub your palms together vigorously until the yarns become one strand. You may have to rub a few times to get the splice to hold. Now you’ve got one continuous strand of yarn and you can keep crocheting.

Russian Join

The Russian join method can be used with any type of yarn fiber. You will need a tapestry needle to perform this method of joining yarn. Thread the needle with one of the strands of yarn and sew the yarn back upon itself for a few inches. Switch to the other piece of yarn and thread the needle. Bring the needle up through the loop created by sewing the first yarn back upon itself and sew the second piece of yarn back upon itself. Hold the ends of both yarns in opposite hands and gently pull until the yarn joins in the middle. You may have to trim the frayed ends once the yarn is joined.

Both of these methods create very strong joins and are almost undetectable in your crocheted fabric. If you’re using a bulky yarn you may notice a bit of extra weight where the yarn is joined, but not enough to detract from your finished work.

Chapter Eight – Beginner Patterns

Now that we’ve covered the equipment you need, we’ve learned about yarn, learned basic stitches and techniques, it’s now time to put hook to yarn and create some beginner projects. You can find all of these patterns for free online and where possible I’ve given the original designers credit. The patterns I’ve chosen for this book are meant to help you gain confidence and skill. Take your time, read through the patterns first, and have fun. If you have to rip out your stitches and start over, don’t sweat it. We all do that no matter how long we’ve been crocheting or how advanced we may be in the craft. All images can be found at the link in the Pattern Link section in the back of this book.

Classic Chunky Cowl

Cowls are all the rage right now and this easy pattern from Red Heart designed by Laura Bain works up quickly and easily. You could crochet this pattern in several different colors and use a variegated yarn to get a different look. Be sure to check out the link for the video in the Pattern Links section of this book.

You will need two balls of Red Heart Grande in Foggy, a size Q (16mm) crochet hook, and a tapestry needle for weaving in the ends. This cowl will measure about 8 inches by 34 inches when completed.

Gauge for this project is 6 stitches and 3 rows equals 4 inches.

Chain 12

Row 1 (right side): Double Crochet in third chain from hook (beginning chain do not count as first Double Crochet) and in each chain across, turn—10 Double Crochet.

Row 2: Chain 2 (does not count as Double Crochet here and throughout), Double Crochet in each Double Crochet across, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 33 inches or desired length.

Joining Row: With wrong side of first and last row held together and working through both thicknesses, chain 1, single crochet in each Double Crochet—10 sc.

Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.

Single Square Coasters

How cute are these? These Granny Square coasters can be made in a variety of colors and would make a really cute stocking stuffer or gift for a new bride. This is a great project to use up your stash and create some fun home décor.

To crochet the coasters pictured you will need one ball each of Red Heart Gumdrop in Cherry (Color A), Turquoise (Color B), and Lilac (Color C). You will also need a size G/6 (4.25 mm) crochet hook and a tapestry needle to weave in your ends. Each square will be four inches square when completed.

Color Sequence:

Color Sequence

Coaster One: All four rounds are worked in Color B

Coaster Two: Rounds 1 and 2 are worked in Color A, Rounds 3 and 4 are worked in Color B

Coaster Three: Rounds 1 and 2 are worked in Color A, Rounds 3 and 4 are worked in Color C

You will be working in the round when creating the Granny Squares. Each corner will have two sets of three double crochet clusters and each cluster is worked in the chain three space of the previous round. When the pattern calls for you to join a new color make a slip knot and place it on your hook. Insert the hook into the appropriate stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through the stitch and the loops on your hook. This does not count as a stitch in the pattern.

Begin each square with a chain 4; slip stitch in first chain to forma ring.

Round 1 (right side): Chain 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), 2 double crochet in ring, *chain 3, 3 double crochet in ring; repeat from * twice, chain 3; join with a slip stitch in top of beginning chain-3 – 12 double crochet; 4 chain-3 spaces. Fasten off.

Round 2: Slip stitch in next 2 double crochet and chain-3 space, chain 3, (2 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet) in same chain-3 space, *(3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet) in next chain-3 space; repeat from * twice, join with a slip stitch in top of beginning chain-3. Fasten off if changing color.

Round 3: Slip stitch in next 2 double crochet and corner chain-3 space or join next color with slip stitch in any corner chain-3 space, chain 3, (2 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet) in same chain-3 space, *3 double crochet between next two 3-double crochet groups**, (3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet) in next corner chain-3 space; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **; join with a slip stitch in top of beginning chain-3.

Round 4: Slip stitch in next 2 double crochet and chain-3 space, chain 3, (2 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet) in same chain-3 space,

*[3 double crochet between next two 3-double crochet groups] twice**, (3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet) in next corner chain-3 space; repeat from * around, ending last repeat at **; join with a slip stitch in top of beginning chain-3.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Fruit Platter Scarf

This pretty scarf patterns lets you practice your color changing skills. Remember to work the last stitch in the row until you have two loops on your hook and then draw the new color through the two loops and snug up your yarn. Turn your work and continue the pattern in the new color.

To crochet the scarf shown in the image you will need one skein each of Vanna’s Choice by Lion Brand in Aqua (Color A), Kelly Green (Color B), Fern (Color C), Radiant Yellow (Color D), Raspberry (Color E), and Cheery Cherry (Color F). Cheery Cherry is Vanna’s Choice Baby Yarn. You will also need a size J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook and a tapestry needle to weave in your ends.

With Color A, chain 22.

Row 1: Half double crochet in third chain from hook (beginning 2 chain does not count as a stitch), half double crochet in each chain across – at the end of Row 1 you will have 20 stitches.

Row 2: Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch), turn, half double crochet in each stitch across.

Repeat Row 2 until piece measures about 10 in. (25.5 cm), changing to B in last stitch.

Continue to repeat Row 2 working 10 in. (25.5 cm) each with B, C, D, E and then F, changing color in the last stitch of each block of color.

Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends.

Barefoot Sandals

These are so cute! Imagine going to the beach or the pool and wearing your very own handcrafted barefoot sandal. You can crochet these up in a variety of colors to match your mood and your outfit. First you make the ankle strap and then you create the triangle shape of the sandal by slip stitching into the center of the first chain three space. This naturally decreases the rows until you form a point at the toes. Before you crochet the starting chain slide the button onto the yarn and slide it along as you crochet. This places it at the correct point when you crochet the button hole. Gauge is not important with this project.

You will need one ball of Lion Brand Microspun Yarn in Lavender and a size G/6 (4 mm) crochet hook and a tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Note: If piece is too long for foot skip Row 8 by working slip stitch to center of second chain space on Row 7, then working work Row 9.

Chain 6, join with slip stitch to form a buttonhole loop.

Row 1: Chain 36, slide button down and leave at end of row, single crochet in second chain from hook and across to loop for ankle strap, end off - 35 stitches.

Row 2: Attach yarn with single crochet in 11th stitch from last stitch of previous row, single crochet in next 14 stitches -15 stitches.

Row 3: Chain 6 (counts as dc and chain 3 space), [skip 1 stitch, dc in next stitch, chain 3] across - 8 dc and 7 chain-space.

Row 4: Slip stitch to center of first chain 3 space, chain 6 (counts as dc and chain 3 space), dc in center of next chain 3 space, (chain 3, dc in next chain 3 space) across, leave remaining stitches unworked - 7 dc and 6 chain-space.

Row 5: Repeat row 4 - 6 dc and 5 chain-space.

Row 6: Repeat row 4 - 5 dc and 4 chain-space.

Row 7: Repeat row 4 - 4 dc and 3 chain-space.

Row 8: Slip stitch to center first chain 3 space, chain 3 (counts as dc), dc in center of next chain 3 space twice - 3 dc.

Row 9: Slip stitch in first stitch, single crochet in center dc.

Row 10: Turn, single crochet in single crochet.

Row 11: Turn, single crochet in single crochet, chain 8, slip stitch into same single crochet to for toe loop, end off.

Weave in ends

Afternoon Wrap

This really pretty wrap is from Caron Yarnspirations and was designed by Kim Rutledge. The wrap is crocheted in a four row pattern repeat. This row pattern is repeated eight times to achieve the pretty wrap pattern. The wrap will be approximately 20 inches wide and 75 inches long when completed.

You will need the following quantities of yarn:

Caron Simply Soft: 2 balls of Plum Perfect for Color B, and 1 ball of Off White for Color D

Caron Simply Soft Heather: 3 balls of Grey Heather for Color A, and 1 ball of Charcoal Heather for Color C

You will also need a size I/8 (5 mm) crochet hook and a tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Gauge for the wrap is four pattern repeats and eight rows equal four inches.

STITCH PATTERN (multiple of 3 stitches + 1; +1 for foundation chain)

Row 1 (RS): (Single crochet, chain 3, dc) in 2nd chain from hook, *skip next 2 chain, (single crochet, chain 3, double crochet) in next chain; repeat from * across, turn.

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as first double crochet), double crochet in first stitch, (single crochet, chain 3, double crochet) in each chain-3 space across to last chain-3 space, single crochet in last chain-3 space, chain 2, double crochet in last single crochet, turn.

Row 3: Chain 1, single crochet in first stitch, chain 3, double crochet in next chain-2 space, *(single crochet, chain 3, double crochet) in next chain-3 space; repeat from * across, single crochet in last double crochet (turning chain), turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for pattern.

WRAP

With A, chain 224.

Rows 1–3: Work Rows 1–3 of Pattern Stitch—75 single crochet and 74 chain-2 spaces.

Continue working in pattern stitch changing colors as follows:

4 more rows with A, *1 row with D, 2 rows with A, 2 rows with C, 4 rows with B, 1 row with D, 4 rows with B, 2 rows with C, 2 rows with A, 1 row with D, 7 rows with A; repeat from * once more.

Fasten off. Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.

Easy Peasy Pompom Hat

I just had to include this cute pattern. This is the perfect hat for any little girl or boy. The pattern shows a young boy wearing a blue themed hat, but you can easily switch up the colors for a young girl. The pattern is written in the smallest size (to fit baby’s head 3/6 (6/12-18/24) months).and has larger sizes in parenthesis. The hat is worked as one piece and then you fold over the piece and sew up the side and top seams to form the hat. Attach pompom on each corner and you’ve got a cute look for any child in your life.

Gauge for the hat is 12 single crochet and 13 rows equal four inches.

You will need 1 ball of Caron Simply Baby Ombre yarn in Sailor Boy Variegated and a size J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook. You will also need a tapestry needle to sew up the seams and weave in the ends.

Chain 47 (56-61).

1st row: 1 single crochet in the second chain from hook. 1 single crochet in each chain to end of chain. Turn. 46 (55-60) single crochet.

2nd row: Chain 1. 1 single crochet in each single crochet to end of row. Turn.

3rd row: Chain 1. (1 single crochet. 2 double crochet) in first single crochet. *Skip next 2 single crochet. (1 single crochet. 2 double crochet) in next single crochet. Rep from * to last 3 single crochet. Skip next 2 single crochet. 1 single crochet in last single crochet. Turn.

4th row: Chain 1. (1 single crochet. 2 double crochet) in first single crochet. *Skip next 2 double crochet. (1 single crochet. 2 double crochet) in next double crochet. Rep from * to last single crochet. 1 single crochet in last single crochet. Turn.

Rep last row for pat until work from beg measures 6 (7-8) inches. Fasten off.

Fold piece in half. Sew side and top seam.

Pompom (make 2).

Wrap yarn around 3 fingers approximately 50 times. Remove from fingers and tie tightly in center. Cut through each side of loops. Trim to a smooth round shape. Sew 1 pompom to each top corner of Hat.

Thank you so much for purchasing this book on basic crochet. It is my hope that this book starts a long and enjoyable love affair with crochet. Remember to relax and have fun. Don’t feel that you have to use exactly the colors or the brand of yarn called for in patterns, let your own creativity shine through. I have included several video links to help you learn the stitches and techniques I included in this book. You will also find a useful list of crochet resources to help you explore the wonderful world of crochet. Thanks again and keep hooking!

Crochet Resources

Craft Yarn Council

Link: http://craftyarncouncil.com/hooks.html

This site is a great resource for the beginner. You will find tutorials on stitches, explanations about yarn and yarn labels, and lots of advice and information.

Red Heart Tutorials

Link: http://www.redheart.com/learn

Red Heart is a great site for learning how to crochet and how to knit. They have tons of videos and instructions for you to refer to so you can learn new techniques and brush up on your skills when you need to. At the Red Heart site you will also find hundreds of free patterns and links to their yarns. You can download their patterns and then purchase the yarn right off their site.

Lion Brand Learning Center

Link: http://www.lionbrand.com/cgi-bin/pg.cgi?page=learningCenter.html

The Lion Brand Yarn company has a great site for resources on learning how to crochet and knit. They have hundreds of free patterns at every skill level. Each pattern lists the materials you will need and you can download the patterns and order your yarn and materials from their site.

The Crochet Crowd

Link: http://thecrochetcrowd.com/

This is the site that got me back into crochet. I love Mikey’s videos and blogs. You can sign up for their free newsletter and receive free patterns each week. They have challenges and crochet alongs you can participate in. Be sure to check out their video channel on YouTube for the best videos on crochet.

New Stitch a Day

Link: http://newstitchaday.com/

As the name implies when you sign up for their free newsletter you receive a new stitch a day in your inbox. Johnny is a great host and makes stitches really easy to understand. The site has a video stitchionary with crochet and knit stitches for you to learn. I really like this site and use it all of the time to learn new stitches and brush up on ones I haven’t used in a while.

Video Links

Learn How to Crochet the Single Crochet Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=qELeHz5ar9Q

Lion Brand Yarns

How to Single Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOlQXn8JWWM&index=4&list=PL69F5A7FE3F95232F

The Crochet Crowd

Learn How to Crochet the Double Crochet Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yB-E6GS84pk

Lion Brand Yarns

How to Double Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGDxroGp0WY&index=6&list=PL69F5A7FE3F95232F

The Crochet Crowd

How to Double Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGDxroGp0WY&index=6&list=PL69F5A7FE3F95232F

The Crochet Crowd

Learn How to Crochet the Half-Double Crochet Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=GtfZMrgYxLc

Lion Brand Yarns

How to Half-Double Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0XxnXY9UzU&index=5&list=PL69F5A7FE3F95232F

The Crochet Crowd

Learn How to Crochet the Treble (Triple) Crochet Stitch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=AkFtj5ZZWcs

Lion Brand Yarns

How to Treble Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gn5dMFUMGXk&index=7&list=PL69F5A7FE3F95232F

The Crochet Crowd

How to Crochet a Shell Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/shell-stitch/

New Stitch a Day

How to Crochet the Puff Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-crochet-the-puff-stitch/

New Stitch a Day

How to Crochet the Popcorn Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-crochet-the-popcorn-stitch/

New Stitch a Day

How to Crochet in the Round
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-crochet-in-the-round/

New Stitch a Day

Learn How to Crochet an Increase
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=q4agkabFD40

Lion Brand Yarns

Learn How to Crochet 2 Together (Decrease)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJGe6WGgYns&list=PLbHEcdQw1SaRv8mLiSEFF6vRZC7WErPOS

Lion Brand Yarns

How to Crochet Magic Circles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Gehu8hL6xQ

The Crochet Crowd

How to Crochet: Change Colors Seamlessly
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BF6OkNL5rY4

New Stitch a Day

Crochet – How to Change Colors Without Knots
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vm-OCqPaIkY

The Crochet Crowd

How to Weave in Ends of Yarn
http://www.redheart.com/learn/videos/weaving-ends-crochet

Red Heart

Spit Splicing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uLiFOVmcUU

Very Pink Knits

Russian Join
http://tutorials.knitpicks.com/wptutorials/how-to-knit-lace-lesson-2-part-3-of-3/

Very Pink Knits

Pattern Links

All of the patterns I have included in this book that are not mine can be found for free on the internet. I have given credit to the original designers where I could, and the attributions for the images I use in this book can be found at the end of this book. Many thanks go out to the wonderful designers and teachers who have help add to the wonderful content in this book they have shared for free.

Buttoned Up Cuffs
http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/buttoned-cuffs

Red Heart

Basic Chunky Cowl
http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/classic-chunky-cowl

Video URL: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWgLXPsmdww

Red Heart

Single Square Coasters
http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/single-square-coasters

Red Heart

Fruit Platter Scarf
http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/L40283.html

Lion Brand

Barefoot Sandals
http://www.lionbrand.com/patterns/cms-barefootSandal.html

Lion Brand

Afternoon Wrap
http://www.yarnspirations.com/patterns/afternoon-wrap.html

Caron Yarnspirations

Easy Peasy Pompom Hat
http://www.yarnspirations.com/patterns/easy-peasy-pompom-hat.html

Caron Yarnspirations

Image Attributions

All images shared from Flickr are shared under the Creative Commons License. All images for patterns can be found at the pattern link provided in the text.

Crochet
https://www.flickr.com/photos/moonrat/5809243391

Image shared on Flickr by Natalie Wilson

Crochet Hooks
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sewpixie/2665022547

Image shared on Flickr by Sew Pixie

Anatomy of a Crochet Hook
http://www.lacebuttons.com/?page_id=670

Image from Lace Buttons blog by Nancy Nehring

Stitch Markers
https://www.flickr.com/photos/madgeface/5179490666

Image shared on Flickr by Madge Face

Tunisian Hook Set
http://www.knitpicks.com/needles/Caspian_Wood_Interchangeable_Crochet_SET_(3.5_3.75_4.0_4.5_5.0_5.5_6.0_6.5_mm)_8_sizes__D91113.html

Image from Knit Picks

Crochet Hook Sizes
http://craftyarncouncil.com/hooks.html

Image from Craft Yarn Council

Yarn Storage
https://www.flickr.com/photos/motherawesome/5723361332

Image shared on Flickr by Mother Awesome

Alpacas
https://www.flickr.com/photos/skyfire/4714788679

Image shared on Flickr by Phil Long

Flax Field
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lhoon/5935246768

Image shard on Flickr by Peter Van den Bossche

Acrylic Yarn
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sagek/5188929273

Image shared on Flickr by Sage K.

Yarn Weights
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/weight.html

Image from the Craft Yarn Council

Yarn Care Symbols
http://www.lionbrand.com/yarnCare.html

Image from Lion Brand Yarn

Yarn Label
www.craftyarncouncil.com/label.html

Image from Craft Yarn Council

Ball Winder and Swift
https://www.flickr.com/photos/psychobabble/1042392163

Image shared on Flickr by Amy

Slip Knot Images
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/tip_crochet.html

Images from Craft Yarn Council

Crochet Chain Image
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/tip_crochet.html

Image from Craft Yarn Council

Single Crochet Images
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/113.html?www=1&lbc=&language=

Images from Lion Brand Yarn Tutorials

Double Crochet Images
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/115.html

Images from Lion Brand Yarn Tutorials

Half-Double Crochet Images
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/114.html?www=1&lbc=&language=

Images from Lion Brand Yarn Tutorials

Treble Crochet Images
http://www.lionbrand.com/faq/116.html?www=1&lbc=&language=En

Images from Lion Brand Yarn Tutorials

Front and Back Loop Crochet
http://www.stitchdiva.com/tutorials/crochet/crochet-in-the-front-or-back-loops-of-a-stitch

Images from Stitch Diva Blog

Shell Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/shell-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Puff Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-crochet-the-puff-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Popcorn Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-crochet-the-popcorn-stitch/

Image from New Stitch a Day

V Stitch
http://blog.redheart.com/how-to-crochet-classic-dc-v-stitch-plus-3-variations/

Image from Red Heart Blog

Joining a Round
http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2013/11/how-to-crochet-in-the-round/

Image from Craftsy Tutorial Blog

Magic Ring Steps
http://www.instructables.com/id/Crochet-Magic-Ring-Adjustable-Ring/

Images from Instructables.com

Color Change
http://www.crochetguru.com/change-color-in-crochet.html

Image from Crochet Guru

Spit Splicing
http://tutorials.knitpicks.com/wptutorials/how-to-knit-lace-lesson-2-part-3-of-3/

Knit Picks Video Tutorial still from How to Knit Lace Lesson 2 (Part 3 of 3) at the 2:20 mark.

Book 2

Intermediate Crochet

By Dorothy Wilks

Hello and thank you for purchasing this intermediate crochet book! If you are a beginner and want to take your skills to the next level this is the book for you. We will explore the exciting realm of motifs and all of the design options they offer and cover different methods of joining motifs which are both simple and decorative. Next we’ll move on to edging techniques and stitches to finish off your projects. One of the most popular techniques is Corner 2 Corner. I will take you step by step so that you can master this fun and easy technique. Finally we’ll learn one of the most popular techniques which has stood the test of time; ripple crochet. I have provided links to resources and videos to help you hone your skills. So are you ready to get started? Well then let’s begin!

Contents

Working with Motifs

Joining Motifs

Edging Techniques

Corner 2 Corner Technique

Ripple and Wave Technique

Resource Links

Video Links

Image Attributions

Working with Motifs

Motifs are fun ways to create many projects. The classic Granny Square afghan is one example of using motifs. The beauty of working with motifs is the great amount of creativity they give you. You can choose to use one design and color scheme, or mix it up and create an eclectic mix of styles and colors.

Granny Squares

When most people think of crochet the first thing that comes to their minds is the Granny Square. This timeless motif has stood the test of many decades and remains one of the most popular techniques today for good reason. You can create wonderfully creative and colorful projects using the humble Granny Square. Granny Squares are easy to master and in this section I will share with you some tips on how to create the perfect Granny Square each and every time.

As you can see in this image the artist mixes many colors and sizes to create a very interesting and unique afghan. Feel free to use as many or as few colors in your Granny Squares as well as different sizes.

First it is important to understand the construction of the Granny Square. The squares are crocheted in the round. You have the choice of always having the right side facing you, or turning your work for each round. If you leave the right side facing you your square will end up a bit crooked. This is perfectly okay and how most Granny Squares end up. But by turning your work each round you will end up with a perfectly square motif. This is because of the tension and the way the stitches blend together as you work. Either way is perfectly acceptable, it just depends on the effect you want your squares to have.

To begin you must crochet a starting chain and join it. This creates the center of the square on which all the other stitches are worked off of. Normally Granny Squares don’t use magic rings, but if you want the center to be closed feel free to use one to start off.

The first round of shells starts with a chain 3. Each time you begin a new round you will chain 3 and they will count as the first double crochet in the shell. Each shell is made of 3 double crochet. So chain 3 and work 2 double crochet, chain 3, work 3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet, chain 3 and join in the 3rd chain of the starting chain 3. This is the first round. You should have four shells separated by chain 3 spaces.

For the second round of shells begin by chaining 3 and work 2 double crochet into the chain three space of the previous row. You will have to ease the two double crochet stitches into this space and the chain three will be on the far left side of the chain three space. (This is why the square ends up a bit cockeyed.) If you turn your work you can simply chain three and then work 2 double crochet right into the chain three space. Chain three and crochet three more double crochet into the same chain three space you just did the starting chain and two double crochet. This forms the first corner.

Chain one, into the next chain three space work three double crochet, chain three, three double crochet. This will be your second corner. Chain one. Into the next chain three space repeat the previous stitches, chain one, and then repeat the three double crochet, chain three, three double crochet combination, chain one and join in the 3rd chain of the starting chain. Now you have eight sets of shells; four sets separated by chain three, and each corner is separated by a chain one space.

For the third round of shells begin by a chain three and two double crochet into the first chain one space. Chain one, crochet the first corner with three double crochet, chain three, three double crochet into the first chain three space. Chain one and crochet three double crochet into the next chain once space. Repeat this process working a shell into each chain once space and two shells at each corner into the chain three spaces.

Work around the square and make it as large as you want. You can change colors at each round and make your squares as colorful or simple as you desire. Just remember that each corner is comprised of three double crochet, chain three, three double crochet. Each side shell cluster is separated by a chain one and it is into these chain spaces you work the shells.

Variations on the Granny Square

There are so many variations of the Granny Square that I could write an entire book about them. In this section we’ll cover some of the most popular variations used to create very creative and beautiful squares.

One of my favorites is the sunflower square. This square uses cluster stitches. To crochet a cluster stitch insert the hook and yarn over, pull through and pull through the first two loops on the hook. Do this twice. You should now have 3 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops, chain one to lock the stitch. The pattern also uses a 3 stitch cluster which is crocheted in the same manner, but you end up with 4 loops on the hook, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops and chain one to lock the stitch.

I did a round of black single crochet on this square to finish it off.

To begin this square form a magic ring and crochet two and then crochet 16 double crochet into the magic ring. You can also chain three and join to create a circle, but I like the look of the magic ring better since it gives a nice tight center. Once you have your 16 double crochet join in the 2nd starting chain.

Chain 2 and double crochet in the same space. Crochet a 2 double crochet cluster and chain one between each double crochet of the previous round. When you reach the end of the round slip stitch into the 2nd chain of the beginning chain 2 to join.

With the second color join at any chain one space and chain three. Crochet a 2 double crochet cluster in the same space, chain 3 and crochet a 3 double crochet cluster in the same space. Chain 2, 3 double crochet cluster in the next chain one space, chain 2; repeat two more times. In the next chain one space work a 3 double crochet cluster, chain 3, 3 double crochet cluster, chain 2. Continue around the square until you reach the end of this round. You will have four corners of two clusters separated by chain 3, and three single clusters on each side separated by chain 2.

With the first color join in any corner and chain 3, crochet a 2 double crochet cluster, chain 3, 3 double crochet cluster, chain 2. Crochet in the same manner as the previous round but you will have the four corners and four 3 double crochet clusters on each side of the square.

So to review the pattern, start with a magic square. You will then have 17 double crochet in the first round (this includes the chain 2). The second round consists of four corners and three 3 double crochet clusters on each side with a chain 2 space between them. The last round has four corners, and four 3 double crochet clusters on each side with a chain 2 space between them.

Granny Round

Another popular variation on the Granny Square is the Granny Round. You can use these for lots of projects. Make a set and use them as coasters, potholders, or keep making the round larger and larger and create a circular afghan.

To begin chain four and join in the 1st chain to form a ring. Chain 3 and crochet 11 double crochet into the ring. Join into 3rd starting chain. For round two chain three and work 2 double crochet into the same space. Chain 1, * skip one double crochet, and work 3 double crochet into next double crochet, chain one *, repeat around and join. You should now have 18 double crochet and six chain one spaces.

Round three starts by slip stitching into the next double crochet which is the center of the three double crochet group. Chain 3 and work two double crochet into the same stitch, chain 1, skip next double crochet, work 3 double crochet into the next chain 1 space, chain 1. * Skip next double crochet, work 3 double crochet into the next double crochet, chain 1, skip next double crochet, 3 double crochet into the next chain one space, chain 1, repeat from * and join. You should have 36 double crochet plus 12 chain 1 spaces.

Lots of Possibilities

Here is a beautiful table runner made up of lacey motifs. With motifs you can use very lacey patterns to create delicate garments, table runners, accessories and much more. There are so many options with motifs I could fill an entire book about them.

Here is a cute pincushion made with motifs.

Please be sure to check out the links I’ve provided in the Resource section to find even more motif patterns. There are hundreds available for free online. Only your imagination is the limit when working with motifs.

Joining Motifs

Once you have your motifs made you’ll need to join them. There are several methods you can use to join your motifs from simply sewing them together to using a pretty braided effect. You can join each motif separately or join a row of motifs and then join the rows to create your project.

Sewing

Sewing your motif together is perhaps the easiest method. Thread a tapestry needle with a generous amount of yarn and hold your motifs with the right sides together. Line up the corners and whip stitch the motifs catching the two loops of each stitch on each motif. This method gives you a nice almost invisible join. If one motif is a big larger than the other one simply ease the stitches together so that the seam does not pucker.

Single Crochet

If you choose to join your motifs with single crochet you will need to decide if you want the seam on the right side or the wrong side. In the following image you can see how I used a simple single crochet join and I have the seam on the right side to make a pretty frame for the motifs.

If you want the seam to be on the right side, hold the motifs with the wrong sides together. (For the seam to be on the wrong side, hold the right sides of your motifs together while you crochet.) Line up the corners and join the yarn in the center of a corner. Single crochet and catch the loops of both motif edges in each stitch. You can easily add the next two motifs by crocheting in a continuous seam until you have reached the end of the row. When you join the next row or column to your piece and you get to a corner catch the corner stitch from all four motifs in the center corner stitch to create a nice 90 degree angle for each corner.

Join as You Go

The join as you go method is a very useful technique in which you join each square as you crochet. When you are finished your afghan or blanket is completely joined and all you need to do is finish it with an edging if you so desire.

Finish your first square completely. In other words do all of the rounds for the first square. When you get to the last round of the next square start with a chain three as the first double crochet, do two more double crochet and then grab the first square and holding the wrong sides together chain one catching the first square in the chain stitch. Then work the next set of three double crochet. When you come to a corner chain one and on the second chain catch the corner of the first square in the second chain stitch.

Chain one, and continue with the next three double crochet cluster to complete the corner. Crochet the next three double crochet cluster, chain one, and continue around the second square to complete the square. As you complete more squares you will continue to crochet the last round catching the adjoining squares in the chain one spaces.

Flat Braid Join

A flat braid join creates a beautiful braided look between your squares. It looks very complicated, but when taken step by step this technique is actually quite easy to achieve. The first step is to crochet a single crochet edging around the squares. This creates a nice even base for the flat braid. You don’t have to do this step, but I find it is much easier if you take the time to do it. You can use this method to join any type of motifs, not just Granny Squares.

Join the yarn you wish to use for the flat braid in any corner and chain three, single crochet into the same stitch you joined the yarn onto and chain three. Skip a stitch and single crochet, chain three, skip a stitch and chain three. Do this all of the way around the square until you get to the first single crochet, join and break the yarn.

Now it is time to work on the second square. Join the yarn in a corner and work across one side of the square just like you did the first square. When you get to the other corner chain three, remove the hook and pick up the first square holding the wrong sides together. Insert the hook into the first square’s chain three loop on the corner, insert the hook into the third chain, pull the loop through the chain three space, and chain two. This joins the two squares. Skip a stitch on the second square and single crochet. Chain one, remove the hook from the chain one loop and insert it from front to back through the next chain three space on the first square. Insert the hook back into the chain one loop and draw it up through the chain three space and chain one. Chain two and continue this across the side of the square to join the two squares together.

Use this method to join all of the squares together and when you are done you will have a decorative flat braid join. Just remember to remove the hook from the chain loop on the working square and insert the hook from front to back on the square you are joining to and draw the chain loop through the chain three space. Then chain one to join the squares, chain two, skip a stitch on the working square and single crochet. That is all there is to it!

These techniques are just the basics ones you can use for joining motifs. There are lots of options you can use. Be sure to explore the videos and links I’ve included at the end of the book for even more inspiration.

Color Wheel Hot Water Bottle Cover

Pattern Link: http://www.yarnspirations.com/patterns/color-wheel-hot-water-bottle-cozy.html

You will need the following yarn and supplies to crate this cute project:

The finished size for the water bottle cover is about 8 inches wide and 11 inches long excluding the neck of the water bottle.

Gauge for this project is 20 single crochet and 24 rows equal four inches.

Pattern guide for joining squares is as follows.

Motif

With Color 1, chain 5. Join with slip stitch to form ring.

1st round: Chain 2. (Yarn over and draw up a loop. Yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Yarn over and draw through all loops on hook – beg cluster made. (Chain 3. Cluster) 7 times in ring. Chain 3. Join with slip stitch to top of beg cluster. Fasten off.

2nd round: Join MAIN COLOR with slip stitch to any chain-3 sp. Chain 3 (counts as double crochet). (2 double crochet. chain 3. 3 double crochet) in same space as last slip stitch. *Chain 1. 3 double crochet in next chain-3 space. Chain 1. (3 double crochet. chain 3. 3 double crochet) in next chain-3 space. Rep from * twice more. Chain 1. 3 double crochet in
next chain-1 space. Chain 1. Join with slip stitch to first double crochet. Fasten off.

Make 6 Motifs using A as Color 1.

Make 6 Motifs using B as Color 1.

Make 6 Motifs using C as Color 1.

Front

Join 12 Motifs with slip stitch as shown in diagram (see page 2).

Edging: 1st round: Join MAIN COLOR with slip stitch to any chain-3 corner space. Chain 1. 3 single crochet in same slip as last slip stitch. Work 1 round of single crochet evenly around, having 3 single crochet in each corner. Join with slip stitch to first single crochet.

2nd and 3rd rounds: Chain 1. 1 single crochet in each single crochet around, having 3 single crochet in each corner single crochet. Join with slip stitch to first single crochet. Fasten off at end of 3rd round.

Back

Top

Join 6 Motifs with slip stitch as shown in diagram (see page 2).

Edging: 1st round: Join MAIN COLOR with slip stitch to bottom right chain-3 corner space. Chain 1. 3 single crochet in same space as last slip stitch. Work 1 round of single crochet evenly around, having 3 single crochet in each corner.

Join with slip stitch to first single crochet.

2nd and 3rd rounds: Chain 1. 1 single crochet in each single crochet around, having 3 single crochet in each corner single crochet. Join with slip stitch to first single crochet. Turn at end of third round.

Begin working in rows along bottom edge:

1st row: Chain 1. 1 single crochet in each single crochet to end of row. Turn.

2nd to 5th rows: Chain 1. 1 single crochet in each single crochet to end of row. Fasten off at end of 5th row.

Bottom

Note: Chain 2 at beginning of row does not count as half double crochet.

With B, chain 44.

1st row: 1 half double crochet in 3rd chain from hook. 1 half double crochet in each chain to end of chain. Turn. 42 half double crochet. 2nd row: Chain 2. 1 half double crochet in each half double crochet to end of row. Join A at end of last row. Turn.

Repeat last row in following sequence: 2 rows A, 2 rows C, 2 rows B, until work from beg measures approximately 4½” [11.5 cm], ending on a WS row. Join MAIN COLOR at end of last row.

Next row: With MAIN COLOR, as 2nd row.

Next row: Buttonhole row: Chain 2. 1 half double crochet in each of next 5 half double crochet. Chain 3. Skip next 3 half double crochet. 1 half double crochet in each of next 6 half double crochet. Chain 3. Skip next 3 half double crochet. 1 half double crochet in each of next 8 half double crochet. Chain 3. Skip next 3 half double crochet. 1 half double crochet in each of next 6 double crochet. Chain 3. Skip next 3 half double crochet. 1 half double crochet in each of last 5 half double crochet. Turn.

Next row: Chain 2. 1 half double crochet in each of next 5 half double crochet. 3 half double crochet in next chain-3 space. 1 half double crochet in each of next 6 half double crochet. 3 half double crochet in next chain-3 space. 1 half double crochet in each of next 8 half double crochet. 3 half double crochet in next chain-3 space. 1 half double crochet in each of next 6 half double crochet. 3 half double crochet in next chain-3 space. 1 half double crochet in each of next 5 half double crochet. Turn.

Next row: 1 half double crochet in each half double crochet to end of row. Fasten off.

Finishing

Place markers 2¼ inches in from either top side edge of Front piece. Align Front with Back Top with WS tog. Join MAIN COLOR with slip stitch at top right marker. Working through both thicknesses, join Front and Back tog with slip stitch around piece, overlapping Back Bottom over Back Top by 1½ inch, to opposite top marker, leaving top between markers open.

Fasten off.

Sew on buttons to correspond to buttonholes.

Edging Techniques

As you advance in your crochet expertise you’ll want to learn how to add pretty edgings to your projects. A lovely edging can take a ho-hum project to a wow project. In this chapter I’ll share some tips on how to work up an even edging, how to add edgings to fabric, and explore some edging stitches.

Evening Up the Edge of Your Project

One of the easiest ways to even up the edges of your projects is to work a row or round of single or double crochet as your last row or round. This gives you a nice even base on which to work your edging stitches. For example the popular Corner 2 Corner technique creates a pretty scarf or afghan, but the edges can be a challenge to try and crochet onto unless you even the edges out with a single crochet edging first. This is because you have a mixture of single and double crochet stitches along the edges. You may have to ease the stitches into your project, but as long as you end up with a nice even edge you’re good to go.

You can see on this Sunflower square that I crocheted I did a round of single crochet in black. Now when I join the squares I will have a nice even edge to work with.

Attaching Edging to Fabric

My grandmother could take thread and crochet intricate and stunning edgings on her dresser scarves and pillowcases she embroidered. Watching her crochet these pretty edgings is one of the things which formed my love of the craft. Most of her projects has edgings made for crochet with small holes already in them. But if you want to add a decorative edging to a piece of fabric there are two main methods you can use.

The first method uses an awl or very sharp crochet hook. Take your fabric and lay it flat. Now take a ruler and mark 3/8 to ½ inch increments across the edge. Now use a sharp awl to gently poke small holes into the fabric. Join the thread to the far right hole and work three or four chain stitches until you come to the next hole and single crochet into the hole. Work across the edge and when you turn your work you will have a base onto which you can crochet the edging.

The second method uses needle and thread. Lay your fabric flat and mark out ½ inch increments with a pencil or fabric pen. Next thread a needle with either crochet thread or heavy thread and blanket stitch across the fabric using the marks as a guide. The blanket stitch is very easy. Insert the needle into the first mark, pull the thread through and insert the needle into the next mark. Before you pull the thread tight slip the needle under the stitch you just made and pull the stitch taut. Work across the edge and when you reach the last mark bind off the thread.

Next holding the fabric with the wrong side facing you join the crochet thread onto the first loop on the right created by the blanket stitch. Single crochet across the edge crocheting the same number of stitches between each loop. When you turn your work you will be ready to start the edging stitches.

Edging Stitches

Shell or Scallop Edging

One of the easiest and most versatile edging stitches is the shell edging (also known as scallop edging). You can use this edging on practically any crochet project to give it a finished look. Join the yarn at any corner and chain three. Crochet four double crochet stitches into the same stitch as the join. Skip two stitches and work five double crochet into the next stitch. At the next corner work two shells and continue across the edge of your project until you reach the first shell, join into the bottom of the first chain and break the yarn.

Big and Little Scallop Edging

This is a pretty variation on the basic shell stitch.

Starting on the wrong side work one single crochet into second chain from hook, one single crochet into each chain to end, turn.

Row 2: 5 chain (count as 1 treble, 1 chain), work [1 treble, 1 chain] twice into first single crochet, skip 4 single crochet, 1 single crochet into next single crochet, *1 chain, skip 4 single crochet, into next single crochet work [1 treble, 1 chain] 5 times, skip 4 single crochet, 1 single crochet into next single crochet; repeat from * to last 5 single crochet, 1 chain, work 1 treble into last single crochet, 1 chain, into same stitch as last treble work [1 treble, 1chain, 1 treble], turn.

Row 3: 1 chain, 1 single crochet into 1 stitch treble, *2 chain, into next single crochet work [double treble, 2 chain] 4 times, skip 2 , 1 single crochet into next treble; repeat from * to end placing last single crochet into fourth of 5 chain at beg of previous row, turn.

Row 4: 1 chain, 1 single crochet into 1 stitch single crochet, *4 chain, skip next space, 1 Bobble into next 2 chain space, [3 chain, 1 Bobble into next 2 chain space] twice, 4 chain, 1single crochet into next single crochet; repeat from * to end. Fasten off.

Neapolitan Lace Edge

This very lovely edging would give your projects a pretty lacey finish.

Work from the narrow end. End with row 6 of pattern, end off. This is where a nice even single crochet edge come in handy to give you a stable base on which to work.

Row 1: [3 double crochet, chain 3, 3 double crochet] in fifth chain from hook (shell made), turn.

Row 2: Chain 3, shell in next chain 3 space of previous shell, turn.

Row 3: chain3, shell in next chain 3 space of previous shell, turn.

Row 4: chain 5, shell in next chain 3 space of previous shell, turn.

Row 5: chain 3, shell in next chain 3 space of previous shell, [chain 2, 1 double crochet] 6 times in next chain 5 space, 1 single crochet in next chain 3 space, turn.

Row 6: chain3, 2double crochet in next chain 2 space *[Slip stitch, chain 3, 2 double crochet] in each of next 4 chain 2 spaces, 1single crochet in next chain 2 space (before shell), chain3, shell in chain 3 space of next shell, turn.

Row 7: chain3, shell in next chain 3 space of previous shell, turn.

Repeat rows 4-7 until you have reached your desired length.

Lace Napkin Edging

Use this pretty edging to add some character to plain napkins, pillowcases, or towels. Use a fabric pen to make 1/8 marks and use an awl to poke holes in the fabric before you begin.

Edging: Join thread with slip stitch at 8th stitch mark to the right of any corner.

1st round: Chain 1. 1 single crochet in same space as last slip stitch. 1 single crochet in each of next 6 stitch marks. *3 single crochet in each of next 2 stitch marks. 1 single crochet in each stitch mark until last stitch mark at next corner. Repeat from * twice more. 3 single crochet in each of next 2 stitch marks. 1 single crochet in each stitch mark to end of round. Join with slip stitch to first single crochet.

2nd round: Chain 6. Miss next 3 single crochet. **1 single crochet in next single crochet. Chain 3. Miss next 3 single crochet. 1 double crochet in next single crochet. Chain 2. 1 double crochet in next single crochet. Chain 3. 1 double crochet in next single crochet. Chain 2. 1 double crochet in next single crochet. Chain 3. Miss next 3 single crochet. *1 single crochet in next single crochet. Chain 3. Miss next 3 single crochet. (1 double crochet. Chain 3. 1 double crochet) in next single crochet. Chain 3. Miss next 3 single crochet.* Repeat from * to * across until 5th single crochet from corner. Repeat from ** twice more. 1 single crochet in next single crochet. Chain 3. Miss next 3 single crochet. 1 double crochet in next single crochet. Chain 2. 1 double crochet in next single crochet. Chain 3. 1 double crochet in next single crochet. Chain 2. 1 double crochet in next single crochet. Chain 3. Miss next 3 single crochet. Repeat from * to * across until beg chain 6. Join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of chain 6.

3rd round: **Chain 7. 1 single crochet in next double crochet. Chain 5. 1 single crochet in next double crochet. (Chain 5. 1 single crochet. Chain 6. 1 single crochet. Chain 5. 1 single crochet) in next chain-3 sp. Chain 5. 1 single crochet in next double crochet. *Chain 7. Miss next: chain-3 space, 1 single crochet and chain-3 sp. 1 single crochet in next double crochet. (Chain 5. 1 single crochet. Chain 6. 1 single crochet. Chain 5. 1 single crochet) in next chain-3 sp. Repeat from * across to 2nd last double crochet from corner. Repeat from ** 3 times more. Join with slip stitch to 3rd chain of beg chain 7. Fasten off.

These are just a few of the most popular edging stitches. Please be sure to check out the links in the back of the book to explore and find even more edging stitches to try out.

Corner 2 Corner Technique

The Corner 2 Corner (C2C) pattern has become one of the most loved patterns, and for good reason. It is easy to learn, works up quickly, and you can make a wide variety of projects using this technique. In this chapter we’ll learn the basic C2C pattern, now to make a square and a rectangle, and how you can use this technique to create interesting and creative motifs and patterns.

Basic C2C Pattern

As the name implies, the pattern is worked from corner to corner. Blocks are formed and connected in increasing diagonal rows. Once you reach the width you want you will cease to increase on one side to form a rectangle or a square. When you reach the point at which you want to start to finish up the shape you no longer increase rows on both side and end up with a final square. This will become clearer as we work the pattern, but believe me it is very easy to master. The following image is from the free C2C pattern found on Red Heart’s site.

The first step is to chain 6. Double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook, and double crochet into the 2 remaining chains. This is the first block. Chain 6, double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook and double crochet into the 2 remaining chain stitches. The second block is formed. Now you want to fold the two blocks like the pages of a book, so slip stich into the chain 3 loop of the first block.

Chain 3 and work 3 double crochet into the chain 3 loop of the first block. Your work will now form a V and you will have 3 blocks made. The beginning tail of your foundation chain will be on the very bottom corner. Use it to keep track of which direction you’re going.

Turn your work and chain 6. Double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook, and double crochet into the 2 remaining chains. Slip stitch into the chain 3 loop of the next block and chain 3. Work 3 double crochet into the chain 3 loop of the block. Slip stitch into the next chain 3 loop and chain three. Work 3 double crochet into the chain three loop and then turn your work.

Continue to chain 6 on each side of your fabric until you reach the desired width and half of the desired length. Now we’ll cover how to make a square or a rectangle.

Square C2C

Once you have your fabric as tall and wide as you want it instead of chaining 6 for a new row you will slip stitch four times until you reach the chain 3 loop of the next block. Chain three and work 3 double crochet into the chain 3 loop. Chain 3 and work 3 double crochets into each block across the project.

When you get to the other side chain 3 and work 3 double crochet into the chain 3 loop. Once you get to the very last block in the corner you will slip stitch over to the chain 3 loop, chain 3, work 3 double crochet into the 3 chain loop, slip stitch into the next block and then break the yarn.

Rectangular C2C

If you are making a scarf of another rectangular project work the blocks until you get to the correct width. Now instead of chaining 6 on each side you will slip stitch across the side of your work to the chain 3 loop and start the next block with a chain 3. On the other side of your work you will continue to start the next row with a chain 6. This will make your project get longer, but not wider. When you reach the desired length slip stitch to the next chain 3 loop across the top of your work and chain 3 to start a new block. Do not chain 3 or chain 6 to start new blocks, but slip stitch across the top of your work and then chain 3 to form the top of the next block until you complete the last corner block and break your yarn.

Changing Colors

Change colors just like any other project. On the last stitch of the block in the old color work the last double crochet until you have 2 loops on your hook and pull the new color through. When you crochet the chain stitches pull the two yarns taught and continue on.

Here is the Red Heart Baby Diamonds Afghan using squares of color. Notice how the colors are matched depending on how you join the squares. .

Ripple and Wave Technique

Ripple, chevron, or wave afghans have stood the test of time. They continue to be a favorite among crochet enthusiasts. In this chapter we will learn the basic ripple pattern and a few variations. We will also go over the math needed to figure out how many stitches a foundation chain should be. You can use single, double, or half double crochet stitches to work up a ripple throw or afghan. Some patterns use shell and cluster stitches to work up very pretty projects. Recently I made the Red Heart Cloudy Day Ripple Throw for my son’s wedding present. This pattern used shells and cluster stitches and skipped stitches to form the valleys. The pattern also used double crochet stitches to form solid stripes between the variegated shell and cluster stitches. It was a fun variation on the basic ripple pattern. Here is a picture of the finished throw.

Basics of the Ripple Pattern

All ripple patterns are formed by peaks and valleys. At the peaks stitches are increased, and at the valleys stitches are decreased. Stitches can be decreased by working two or three stitches together, or you may skip stitches to form a valley.

Most ripple patterns are worked in sets of single stitches, increase, and decreases. For example the solid color stripes in the Cloud Day Ripple Throw were worked as follows:

Rows 7-11: With next color, chain 2, skip next double crochet, double crochet in next 4 double crochet, *3 double crochet in next double crochet, double crochet in next 6 double crochet, skip next 2 double crochet, double crochet in next 6 double crochet; repeat from* 8 times, 3 double crochet in next double crochet, double crochet in next 4 double crochet, skip next double crochet, double crochet in last stitch; turn.

Starting from the repeat the three double crochet form the first peak, six double crochet are worked and then two double crochet are skipped to form the first valley, and six double crochet are worked up toward the next peak. This pattern is repeated eight times and then the row is finished off with the specified stitches.

All of the peaks and valleys, no matter which type of pattern you use, line up as you work. If you find your peaks and valleys are not lining up then you have made a mistake in your stitch count. My first ripple afghan was like that. I was working away and found that somehow I had reversed the pattern and the peaks had become valleys and the valleys had become peaks. Yes I did some frogging that day…

Foundation Chain Math

One you have the basic idea down pat for a ripple afghan you may want to make one on your own without a pattern. The first thing you need to decide is how many stitches each repeat will contain. For example six stitches toward the peak, three stitches in the peak, six stitches toward the valley, and two stitches for the valley add up to 17 stitches. Multiply 17 by the number of repeats you wish to have and then add seven for the beginning of the row, and nine for the ending of the row.

So if you want 8 pattern repeats you will need 136 chain stitches plus 16 for the beginning and ending of the rows. This adds up to 152 chain stitches. (Remember this number includes the starting chain for the first stitch.) An easier way to do this is to find a pattern you like, look at the pattern repeats and decide which types of stitches you want to use and use the starting chain number from the pattern. If you’re like me math sometimes makes your head hurt and why reinvent the wheel if someone else has already made the calculations.

You can also use the ripple pattern to crochet hats, scarves, wrist warmers, slippers, and home décor items. It is not limited to afghans and throws.

Resource Links

As you grow in your skills you will find some great resources online to help you connect with fellow crochet lovers and to learn new techniques. In this chapter I share some of the best resources I’ve found while writing my books and in exploring the internet for high quality resources. There are lots more sites out there you can explore, but I hope the ones I’ve included give you a good solid starting point, and places to refer to when you need information.

Crochet N Crafts
http://crochetncrafts.com/freecrochetpatterns.html

A great site full of instructions, videos, free patterns, and patterns you can purchase. There are patterns for all sorts of projects on this site, and lots of tutorials for you to learn new stitches and techniques.

Tapestry Crochet Blog
http://www.tapestrycrochet.com/blog/?cat=18

Carol Ventura has a blog dedicated to the art of flat tapestry crochet. You will find her worldwide adventures finding materials and other loves of this art, and lots of tutorials, patterns, tips, and tricks. You will be amazed at the beautiful creations she creates, and the stunning creations the artists she features on her blog create with this type of crochet.

The Crochet Spot
http://www.crochetspot.com/

This is a great blog full of instructions, illustrations (including left handed instructions), patterns, and information about crocheting for charity. Rachel also designs patterns you can purchase on her site, and if you sign up for Premium Pattern Membership you can download all of her new patterns each month for no charge.

Crochet Kittens
http://crochetkitten.blogspot.com/

This is another great blog to visit for tutorials, patterns, and lots of information about the art of crochet. Find out how to use your scraps to crochet things for cats in rescue shelters. The Cuddles for Kittens program on her blog gives you a free pattern for a cuddle mat and a cuddle bed you can donate to a local shelter for lonely kitties waiting to be adopted.

New Stitch a Day
http://newstitchaday.com/

This site has tons of videos and instruction to learn new stitches. Sign up for their free newsletter and get tutorials delivered to your inbox each day or once a week. The also host live events, contests and giveaways, and discounts for yarn and supplies. Be sure to check out the Video Stitchionary to learn new stitches and brush up on old favorites.

Ravelry
https://www.ravelry.com/account/login

Ravelry is a free crochet and knitting community. Here you can meet other hookers in the forums, share patterns, show off your works in progress, and shop for yarn and supplies.

Red Heart
http://redheart.com

Red Heart sponsors this free site where you can find hundreds of free patterns. You can shop for yarn and supplies in their online store and get everything you need for the projects you download. They also have tutorials and a blog to keep up with all the latest crochet and knitting news and trends. Sign up for the free newsletter to get all the latest patterns and deals from Red Heart.

Lion Brand
http://learntocrochet.lionbrand.com/

Lion Brand is another site where you can find free patterns, yarn, and supplies. They have a learning center where you can learn new skills, and you can keep up with trends and news on their blog. They also offer a free newsletter.

Annie’s Crafts
http://www.anniescatalog.com/

Annie’s is where you can find all sorts of yarn, supplies, patterns, and everything related to yarn and crafts. Not only do they cover crochet, but they also have lots of information and supplies for jewelry making, knitting, plastic canvas, and more crafts. They also have a free newsletter which keeps you informed of all the specials they offer.

The Crochet Crowd
http://thecrochetcrowd.com/

I love this site! So much free information and community. Be sure to follow them on Facebook and check out their challenges. Mikey, Cathy, and Diva Dan offer up humor, thoughtful insights, and plenty of great information on this site. Sign up for their weekly newsletter to keep up to date on all that is going on there.

All Free Crochet
http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Tutorials

I get SO many of my free patterns from this site. There are hundreds if not thousands of free patterns for every level of skill. Sign up for their newsletters and be sure to visit their sister sites for even more free patterns.

All Free Crochet Afghan Patterns
http://www.allfreecrochetafghanpatterns.com/

Are you ready to take the plunge and start an Afghan? This is the site to start. They have all levels of patterns for everyone from baby to adults.

Video Links

Learn How to Join as You Go Basic Granny Squares
http://www.redheart.com/learn/videos/join-you-go-basic-granny-squares

Red Heart

Crochet Flat Braid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbKe3ll6LXw

Crochet Geek

Learn How to Attach Crochet Edgings with Vickie Howell
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQQSZZwSnQQ

Jo Ann Fabrics

How to Crochet the Big and Little Scallops Edging
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-crochet-the-big-and-little-scallops-edging/

New Stitch a Day

How to Crochet the Neapolitan Lace Edge
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-crochet-the-neapolitan-lace-edge/

New Stitch a Day

How to Crochet the Corner 2 Corner Afghan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dymIOzc_aXY

Red Heart

Image Attributions

All of the patterns I have included in this book that is not mine can be found for free on the internet. I have given credit to the original designers where I could, and the attributions for the images I use in this book can be found at the end of this book. Many thanks go out to the wonderful designers and teachers who have help add to the wonderful content in this book they have shared for free.

Some of the images in this book are mine. All images shared from Flickr are shared under the Creative Commons License. All images for patterns can be found at the pattern link provided in the text.

Crochet Block
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kpwerker/452655919

Image shared on Flickr by Kim Piper Werker

Granny Squares
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ingermaaike2/5911863507

Image shared on Flickr by Inger Maaike

Granny Circle
http://www.orble.com/free-granny-circle-motif-crochet-pattern/

Image from Orble Tutorial

Purple Table Runner
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pandatomic/5743049942

Image shared on Flickr by pandatomic

Pincushions
https://www.flickr.com/photos/eraphernalia_vintage/5716974251

Image shared on Flickr by Cheryl

Join as You Go
https://www.flickr.com/photos/edieeckman/6011407963

Imaged shared on Flickr by Eddie Eckman

Flat Braid Join
http://www.knotyournanascrochet.com/2013/04/10-different-ways-to-join-granny-squares.html

Image from Knot Your Nanas Crochet

Crochet Edging
https://www.flickr.com/photos/knitsteel/7969973286

Image shared on Flickr by Kirsten Skiles

Edging Using an Awl
https://www.flickr.com/photos/craftapalooza/6246148605

Image shared on Flickr by Nicole Vaughan

Shell Edging
https://www.flickr.com/photos/51106757@N04/4714873096

Image shared on Flickr by Tracey Leigh

Big and Little Scallop Edging Stitch
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-crochet-the-big-and-little-scallops-edging/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Neapolitan Lace Edge
http://newstitchaday.com/how-to-crochet-the-neapolitan-lace-edge/

Image from New Stitch a Day

Napkin Lace Edging
http://www.allfreecrochet.com/Kitchen-and-Dining/Lace-Napkin-Edging

Image from All Free Crochet

Corner 2 Corner Afghan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dymIOzc_aXY

Image from Red Heart

Baby Diamonds C2C Throw
http://www.redheart.com/free-patterns/baby-diamonds-blanket

Image from Red Heart

Book 3

Expert Crochet

By Dorothy Wilks

Thank you for purchasing the third volume in my latest crochet series! In this volume we will explore how to read charts and graphs, different types of colorworks, and I will share tips on designing your own patterns. These are important skills for an expert crocheter because if you know how to read and work charts and graphs you open up an entire new world of patterns for you to explore. We will also learn some exciting expert techniques such as Filet. I hope this volume, Expert Crochet, will encourage you and sparks your creativity to reach an even higher level of crochet skills.

Contents

How to Read a Crochet Chart

How to Read a Crochet Graph and Expert Color Work Techniques

Intarsia Crochet

Fair Isle Crochet

Tapestry Crochet

Filet Crochet

Broomstick Lace

Beads and Crochet

Designing Your Own Patterns

End Notes

Resources

Image Attributions

How to Read a Crochet Chart

Many expert patterns are written in the form of a chart. Intricate patterns for doilies and other exquisite projects would be too cumbersome and hard to follow if they were written out. Not only that but a chart gives you a visual representation of what your finished project will look like. Learning how to read a crochet chart will enable you to work a pattern no matter what language it is written in. So if you know how to read a chart you can find a project you want to crochet and follow the chart even if the words are written in another language.

Reading the Chart

If you are working rows you will start to read the chart at the bottom right corner. The first row is not the foundation row unless specified as so. The next row is read from right to left, and the next row is red from left to right up the chart if you are right handed. If you are left handed you would reverse the directions and start down in the lower left corner and work left to right and then right to left all of the way up the chart.

If you are working in the round and are right handed, work in a counter clockwise direction. If you are left handed you would work in a clockwise direction following the chart around. When you work in the round the chart starts in the middle and works its way out toward the edge.

A small arrow is used to denote where you begin. Some designers include directional arrows on their charts, but some do not. Each row may be marked, but normally designers only mark either the even or odd rows. Most designers will mark how many stitches you should have in each row especially if there have been increases or decreases.

Most charts don’t tell you if you should work into a stitch or around it. This is where your knowledge of common crochet practices comes into play. For example if you are making a Granny Square then you know the clusters of three double crochet are worked around the chain stitches, not into them. I have seen some charts with directional arrows used to denote working into or around a stitch, but this isn’t a common practice.

Color changes may or may not be shown on a chart, it depends on the designer. You can switch up colors and add them whenever you like as long as you work the chart stitches correctly.

Crochet Chart Symbols

First you need to know what all of the various symbols mean. Be sure to check the key to the chart just to be sure since designers may choose to use their own symbols when working up a chart. Here is a list of standardized crochet chart symbols from the Craft Yarn Council. (You can go to their site and download a handy PDF file for future reference.)

US versus UK Terminology

US and UK terminology is not the same. When you read patterns from the UK you will need to translate them into US terms. This is important to know if you find a chart with written instructions. Here’s a handy guide for you to refer to:

American (US) Term

British (UK) Terms

Slip stitch

Single crochet

Single crochet

Double crochet

Double crochet

Treble

Treble/Triple

Double treble

Skip

Miss

Gauge

Tension

US and UK hook sizes are also referred to differently. Use this chart to convert US and UK hooks.

Letter

Number

Metric

C

2

2.75 mm

D

3

3.25 mm

E

4

3.5 mm

F

5

3.75 mm

G

6

4.0 mm

7

4.5 mm

H

8

5.0 mm

I

9

5.5 mm

J

10

6.0 mm

K

1,5

6.5 mm

Okay now that we’ve covered the basics on how to read a chart, what the symbols mean, and how to convert UK terms into US terms let’s take a look at an actual chart.

In this motif chart you can see that you will need to use chain stitches, single crochet, and double crochet stitches. Starting in the middle the first step is to chain four and join to form a ring. Next chain one and single crochet six stitches into the ring and join. For round three chain three and double crochet into the same space, two double crochet into the next single crochet, chain four, two double crochet into each of the next two single crochet, chain four and repeat around. Join.

Round four begins with chain three and a double crochet into the same stitch. One double crochet into each of the next two stitches, two double crochet into the next stitch, chain three, single crochet into the chain four space, chain three, and then work around the project according to the chart. Once you get used to the way the chart looks compared to how the actual crochet piece looks, it will all come together for you. The designer was kind enough to make each round a different color to make it easy to follow the chart.

Here is a picture of the finished motifs joined together.

Tips for Reading and Working Charts

Familiarize yourself with the stitches and the key of the chart before you begin. Make sure you understand what the symbols on the chart mean. Know if the designer is using US or UK terms.

Find the starting point and ending point of the pattern.

Look for any clues the designer gives you such as directional arrows, or instructions on whether or not to work stitches into the previous row or around it.

Compare the chart to a picture of the finished project to help you visualize how to work the chart.

If the chart has written instructions follow along with them as you work the chart.

Relax and have fun!

How to Read a Crochet Graph and Expert Color Work Techniques

Graphs are used in many crochet techniques including Filet, Intarsia and Fair Isle. Knowing how to read and crochet a graph pattern is an important expert skill. You can even create your own graph and make up personalized patterns and designs. Although a graph may look intimidating, once you understand how to work each row you’ll be crocheting up graph projects in no time.

The direction you start to work a graph is up to you. Some folks find it easier to start reading a graph from left to right, like you’re reading a book, while others may find it easier to start reading a graph from right to left. Just remember once you start to work your graph to continue to read the graph in the same manner as you started out.

Figure Out the Foundation Chain

First take a look at how many squares are across the bottom of the graph. This number is the number of stitches you will need in your foundation chain. The foundation chain does NOT count as the first row. Add the appropriate number of stitches to the foundation chain for the type of stitch you will be using, for example plus one stitch for single crochet and three chains for double crochet. Filet graphs are worked in double crochet while most other types of graphs are worked in single crochet. But you can work a picture graph in any stitch you like, just remember to add the appropriate number of chain stitches to your foundation chain when starting out.

Keeping Track of Your Progress

I recommend using a highlighter to mark each row as you work. Also draw an arrow at the beginning of each row so you will know which direction you are going in case you have to take a break from your project. If you have your rows marked off and arrows on the rows you can pick your project right back up and start to crochet again without confusion.

I would also recommend writing the number of stitches needed across the bottom of the chart, and how many rows you will work along the side of the chart. You may also want to make a note of how many stitches are in each block of color so that you can keep track. Crocheting a chart is all about counting. You must count correctly for your pattern to develop correctly.

If you take a look at the poinsettia chart you will see that the chart has 25 boxes across and 27 rows. How you count the boxes depends on the type of crochet you are planning to do. If you are going to crochet an Intarsia pattern or Fair Isle pattern you would count the boxes as one stitch. If you are going to do a Filet pattern each box across the pattern counts as two stitches. Before you begin know which type of pattern you are going to work.

Intarsia Crochet

Intarsia crochet is used to create pictures and patterns in projects. In the poinsettia chart you can see the designer calls for four colors. When you change color in the Intarsia method you will use a new bobbin of thread. So before you begin look at the chart and find the maximum number of color changes in one row. This is the number of bobbins you will need for each color change. For example in row 14 you will need to have three bobbins of white, two bobbins of green, and two bobbins of red.

When working an Intarsia chart each square represents one single crochet. So to begin you will need to crochet a foundation chain of 25 plus one. The extra stitch counts as the first single crochet in the first row. We will begin reading the chart from the lower right corner and work out way across with 24 single crochet in white. Turn your work and chain one, and crochet 24 single crochet in white. Repeat this one more time so that you now have three rows of white. Turn you work and chain one, crochet 11 single crochet in white, one in green, and 12 more in white to finish row four.

When you change color work the last stitch of the old color to the last two loops and then draw the new color through the loops and work the new color. Drop the old color and let it rest there until you come back across the row and need it again. You should have one bobbin of white, one bobbin of green and one bobbin of white so far.

When you reach row six you will pick up a bobbin of red and add it to the fabric. At row 13 yellow is added to the color and you will need a bobbin of this color, too. The most challenging thing about Intarsia is keeping your bobbins of yarn from getting tangled as you turn your work. I have seen some very creative ideas on how to keep this from happening. One of my favorites is to use a dowel and empty toilet paper rolls. Wind up your colors on the rolls and thread the rolls onto a dowel and suspend the dowel on the backs of two chairs or some other way to keep the dowel suspended and your yarn flowing freely.

When you change colors be sure to capture the old color under the first stitch of the new color to secure it. Leave long tails when you are finished so you can weave them in securely.

Fair Isle Crochet

You may think of knitting when you hear the term Fair Isle. Did you know you can also work beautifully intricate and stunning patterns of Fair Isle crochet in crochet, too? Well you can, and it is very easy once you understand the process. Unlike Intarsia you do not use bobbins to change color. Instead you “float” the yarn on the back of your work. What this means is as you change colors you carry the unused colors along the back of your project to be picked up as you need them. This creates a loopy look on the back of the fabric, so unlike Intarsia or Tapestry (which we will cover next) the fabric is not reversible.

We will use the poinsettia chart again to learn the Fair Isle color technique. All stitches will be single crochet in this example. You start off with a foundation chain of 25 plus one and crochet three rows of white. In the fourth row the chart calls for green on the 13th stitch. On the last white stitch pull the green yarn through the last two loops and crochet one green single crochet. Pull white through the last two lops of the green stitch and continue across the row with white. Since there is only one green stitch so far you can leave the green and pick it up when you come back across the row. You want to avoid floating colors more than five or six stitches if you can.

Repeat this process for the next row and work your way up the chart to row 8. This is the row where you would start to float the colors along the back of the fabric. As you change colors catch the unused colors in the back of the stitches when you change colors. For example in row 8 crochet five white, pick up the green and crochet three green catching the white behind the green when you change colors, next crochet three red stitches catching the green and the white behind the first red stitch. You will now carry all three colors across the row as you work pulling the correct color to the front to work with as the chart calls for color changes.

Here is an example of what a Fair Isle crochet project looks like on the wrong side so that you can see how the yarn is carried across the back of the fabric.You can see how the artist did not carry the colors across the rows of solid color. You can either break and join the yarn or carry the colors up the sides of your work. To carry the colors up the sides of your work capture the unused color in the first stitch of the row. This secures the color and lets you carry the unused yarn up the side of the work so you can pick it back up without breaking the yarn.

Tapestry Crochet

Tapestry crochet gets its name from the beautiful tapestries artists created in the Middle Ages. In those tapestries thread or yarn was carried in the rows of the work and as a color was needed it was pulled forward to be used. This same technique is used in tapestry crochet. Unlike Intarsia or Fair Isle all of the colors are in play at once. As you work the yarns are incorporated into each row. How this works is you insert your hook into the next stitch and grab the correct color and work the appropriate number of stitches carrying the unused yarn under the stitches of the active color. This creates a very thick fabric with hints of all of the colors peeking through the stitches.

The colors are not dropped, and they are not floated on the back of the fabric. Rather they are carried along and captured under the active stitches. Here is an example of Tapestry crochet. Note how the lighter color peeks through the darker one.

Filet Crochet

Filet crochet creates very delicate and intricate pictures and patterns in crochet. Normally thread or very thin yarn is used in Filet crochet. Also one color is usually used for this technique. A chart is also used for Filet and is read just like any other crochet chart except each box represents two stitches in a row. This is because the empty boxes represent two double crochet stitches while the colored in boxes represent a double crochet and chain stitch.

This is important to remember when figuring up your foundation chain. Also remember you will be using double crochet stitches combined with chain stitches to create the Filet pattern. The following image is of a unicorn Filet pattern. You will see that there are 66 boxes across the chart and 62 rows up the sides of the chart. This translates into a foundation chain of 132 plus three. The last three chains count as the first double crochet of the first row.

You read Filet charts either from right to left or left to right, whichever way is best for you. Like all charts it is a good idea to make a note of how many stitches are needed for each pattern section. You may want to make each block of stitches so that you can count them easier as you crochet and not have to stop and count the stitches on the chart. Use arrows to help you keep track of which way you are reading the chart and mark each row you complete with a highlighter to make your life easier, especially if you have to put your work down and come back to it.

In this image you can see a close up of the stitches used in Filet crochet. Notice how the boxes are formed by the double crochet and chain stitch while the filled in spaces are formed by two double crochet stitches right next to each other.

To begin this Filet chart you would first crochet a foundation chain of 135 stitches. Although there are 66 boxes each one represents two stitches. The last three chain stitches count as the first double crochet. Double crochet into the fourth chain from the hook and double crochet into each chain stitch across the foundation chain. Turn your work and chain three. Crochet a double crochet into each stitch across the row and end up with a double crochet into the top of the turning chain.

To begin row three chain three and work five double crochet. At the first X on the chart double crochet and chain one, skip a double crochet three times. At the three X’s you will have three sets of double crochet and chain one. At each chain one you skip a stitch. At each empty square you crochet one double crochet into the next two stitches. The pattern will develop as you crochet with the chain one spaces. Here is a picture of the finished project crocheted from this chart so you can see how the pattern develops.

Crochet Charts and Embroidery Charts

Counted cross stitch embroidery uses charts which are very similar to crochet charts. As a matter of fact many counted cross stitch charts can be converted to crochet charts. With just a few adjustments you can convert a counted cross stitch chart into a crochet chart. In this image of a counted cross stitch picture you can see how the Aida cloth has small squares. On charts these squares correspond to stitches so if you use a counted cross stitch chart simply translate the stitch boxes into crochet stitches. For the outline stitches in the embroidery pattern you can surface crochet to get the same effect.

Before you begin look at the color key for the chart. I recommend making a chart of your own using the yarn colors you will use for your project. Take a piece of cardboard or poster board and using a hole punch, punch holes down the side of the side of the poster board. Punch enough holes to accommodate the number of colors you will use to work the chart. Label each hole with the name of the color and color number is there is one. Thread a small amount of each yarn into the holes so that you can keep track of which colors you will be using. This will really help you when you come back to your project and it will help you keep track of the colors you need to use in the chart.

Broomstick Lace

Broomstick lace is an age old technique using a large rod (usually a broomstick) and yarn to create beautiful and lacey looking garments and accessories. The finished product looks like it took years to master the technique, but broomstick lace is actually quite easy to crochet. You will need a large dowel, a large knitting needle, a large crochet hook, or broomstick, your favorite yarn, and a crochet hook. The large item you use to create broomstick lace is often times called a pin in patterns.

Since broomstick lace is worked in sets of stitches you must first figure out how many stitches you want in each set. For example if you want five stitches in each set then you must do a foundation chain in multiples of five. When you reach the last chain pull the yarn up and over the pin.

Now single crochet into the chain and draw the yarn up over the pin so that all of the stitches are made around the pin. This is what creates the pretty loops in the finished project.

Slide your crochet hook under five of the loops (we’ll use five for this example, but you can use as many loops as you want as long as you figure your foundation chain correctly). Pull the first set of loops off of the pin. Yarn over and pull the yarn through all five loops and single crochet five times across the top of the group.

Slip your crochet hook under the next five loops and repeat this process. Repeat until you have worked all of the loops off the pin. To create the second row turn your work and single crochet into each single crochet drawing a loop up and over the pin. Slip your crochet hook under the first set of loops and repeat the previous row. Continue to repeat this process until your piece is the desired length.

Be sure to count each set of loops so that you have the correct number of stitches. You don’t want to accidently increase or decrease your stitches while you work. You can slip all of the loops off the pin before you group them together and single crochet around them if you like. Some people feel this makes it easier to work, but I prefer to keep the loops on the pin as I work. Try both methods and see which one you feel most comfortable with.

You can vary the size of your stitches by using a larger or smaller pin, a larger or smaller crochet hook, and by varying the weight of the yarn you use.

Here is a very pretty example of broomstick lace. Note how the artist has slipped all of the loops off the pin and is now crocheting around the loops. You can use broomstick lace to create scarves, afghans, garments, and accessories.

Beads and Crochet

I have to confess I’m a sucker for bling. I love jewels, beads, and all things shiny. Adding beads to your crochet projects can take them over the top and give them a real one of the kind look. You can even crochet with wire and beads to create your own jewelry masterpieces. I still have a pretty seed pearl necklace my grandmother crocheted many years ago and I wear it often and just love it. In this section we will learn how to add beaded embellishments to your crochet projects.

How to Add Beaded Embellishments to Crochet

There are two ways to add beads to a crochet project. The first way is to thread the beads onto your yarn before you begin and as you crochet move them down into your stitches. The second way is to thread the beads onto a piece of yarn and as you crochet incorporate the beaded yarn into your project. Both methods work well, and both are fairly easy to do.

It is up to you which method you prefer although if you are going to add a lot of beads to a project I think the second method is much easier than the first because of the fact you don’t quite know how much yarn you will need before you begin and when you run out of beads you will have to break your yarn, thread more beads onto it and then join the yarn back onto your project. But like I said, it is a personal preference which method you use.

Threading Beads onto Yarn

The first method we’ll learn is to thread the beads onto the yarn before you begin to crochet. You need to know how many beads you want to use since once you string the beads onto the yarn you won’t be able to add any more. Using a sewing needle and thread make a knot in the end of the thread to form a large loop and slide the yarn into the loops. Place a bead onto the sewing needle and slide it down the thread and onto the yarn. Do this until you have threaded the correct number of beads that you need onto the yarn.

Using a Second Piece of Yarn or Thread

The second method for adding beads to your crochet involves using a second piece of thin yarn or thread to hold the beads. This method works well if you’re not sure how many beads you will need since you can always thread more beads onto the end of the thread or yarn. You will hold the second piece of yarn or thread and crochet with it, but only add a bead when you need to. This is why you need to use very thin yarn or thread so that you don’t add a lot of bulk to your fabric.

How to Crochet with Beads

You can position the beads on the front or back of your work depending on how you place them in the stitch. You can also use beads with almost any stitch so this method is very versatile. If you want the bead to be on the back of your work slide the bead up against the stitch before you begin and make a slip stitch to hold the bead in place. Now work your stitch. Each time you need a bead added slide the bead down against your work, slip stitch, and make your stitch.

Another method to place beads in the back of your work is to work the stitch to the last two loops on the hook, slide the bead up against the hook, yarn over and draw the yarn through the last to loops. This secures the bead into the stitch. If you need the bead to be on the front of your work simply slide the bead to the front after you yarn over. This enables you to be able to add beads no matter what side of the fabric you are working on.

Designing Your Own Patterns

One of the fun things about advancing your crochet skills is the challenge of designing your own patterns. No doubt at one time or another you’ve worked a pattern and had to make a few adjustments or tweaked it to make it work. Or you may have had a pattern you really liked but decided to add your own touches to it. If you’ve ever done this why not try your hand at creating your own patterns?

I love to look at blogs which offer patterns. This gives me lots of inspiration for my own patterns. You don’t have to reinvent the wheel when creating your own designs, use what you already know. If you have a favorite pattern try taking it and making some adjustments. Or take a pattern and substitute a new stitch. For example I really like to make slouchy beanies for my daughter. I’ve used lots of patterns and one day I found a pattern for a drop stitch double crochet that I thought would make a really cute hat so I played around with a basic hat pattern and came up with my own design.

I also took the basic hat pattern and played around with back post double crochet and the crab stitch and came up with this design.

Designing your own patterns is fun. It’s a chance for you to really stretch our creativity and skills. I subscribe to New Stitch a Day’s daily newsletter and there have been many times these stitches have inspired me to create a new pattern.

Tips for Creating Your Own Crochet Designs

First have a good idea of what you want your project to look like. This will guide you on the choice of yarn, the size of the hook, and the type of yarn you choose. You may even want to do a rough sketch of the finished project.

If you are designing an article of clothing decide how the pieces will come together. You will also need measurements for the size you are making. Remember to include ease into your design. Ease is the extra bit of room you need to have the garment fit comfortably. You can find charts with measurements on the Craft Yarn Council. They list the measurements for women, men, and children.

Crochet a few swatches using the yarn you want to use with different hook sizes. These swatches will let you know how the fabric will look and feel so you can choose the correct hook size for the project.

Write down everything you do while you crochet the pattern. Make notes about any adjustments and changes you make as you work. The first draft of your pattern will be a mess, but that is okay because you are the only one who will see it.

Don’t crochet up a project and then try to write down the pattern. I’ve tried this and it just doesn’t work. When you go back to write the pattern down you may miss steps or you won’t be sure about the stitch count and end up starting all over anyway.

Make sure your stitch counts are accurate. Once you crochet up your first version go over the pattern again and crochet from your notes. Make any notations on changes or adjustments you make as you go along.

When you are happy with your pattern write out a final draft. Use industry standards to write your pattern. This will make it much easier to share or sell. You can find industry standards for abbreviations and industry standards for symbols on the Craft Yarn Council’s website. Include the amount of yarn you used, the type of yarn, the size of hook, and the gauge.

Now that you have your pattern written out, or your chart drawn, you will need to have it tested. Ask some of your friends to test your pattern for you. Have them note any mistakes or difficulties they ran into when crocheting the pattern. Take their notes and make any adjustments you need to your pattern.

Where to Share or Sell Your Patterns

Once you have a pattern you are happy with and it has been tested and edited now what do you do with it? Well you can start a blog and share your patterns for free, or you can try to sell your patterns on Etsy or Ravelry. Personally I like the Ravelry community. You can sign up for an account for free, list patterns, sell your patterns, collect your favorite patterns in a digital notebook, favorite other designers, join their forums and get to know other crocheters, and post pictures of your work. Etsy is also a good site to use to sell patterns and finished products. You can sign up for a free account and list your patterns for sale, and if you have finished products to sell you can also list these too.

Facebook has lots of pages dedicated to the art of crochet. You can also start your own page and share your knowledge of the art of crochet, share videos you find that are educational, start discussions, and build your very own crochet community.

End Notes

Thank you so much for purchasing the third and final volume of my crochet series. I have truly enjoyed sharing my knowledge of crochet with you, and I hope I have started you on a lifelong journey of this popular yarn art. Please be sure to check out the Resource section at the end of this book. I have listed links for you to find valuable information and links to instructional videos to help you learn the techniques we covered in this book.

So my new crochet friend, keep on hooking and take care!

Dorothy

Resources

Body Measurement Charts
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/sizing.html

The Craft Yarn Council

Industry Standards for Crochet Abbreviations
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/crochet.html

The Craft Yarn Council

Industry Standards for Crochet Symbols
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/chart_crochet.html

The Craft Yarn Council

Ravelry
http://www.ravelry.com/

Etsy
https://www.etsy.com/

How to Read Crochet Charts & Symbols
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZfLVaIWHz4

Knit Picks

How to: Read a Crochet Chart
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2i05LFBLgcg

Bernat Yarns

Intarsia Tutorial #1: Basic Intarsia Technique
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xhm6WK5cqxU

Crochet Ever After

Fair Isle Crochet Tutorials
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r98K2d7hzCw&list=PLbs4nHwbFQvJA3sPAy49HFyXfsgtlMgRk

Crochet Ever After

Colorwork and Tapestry Crochet with Red Heart Yarns
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQJUfEL5PFA

Red Heart Yarns

Learn to Filet Crochet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtArDUX3fog

The Crochet Crowd

How to Crochet with Beads
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MbLCuyfv-M

Crochet and Crafts

How To - How to design a crocheted hat and the maths
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGeZVs2JJ7M

Happy Berry Crochet

Broomstick Lace Tutorial
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R600nqwft_g

Crochet Ever After

DIY Learn How To Crochet - Broomstick Lace Blanket Afghan Throw with Solomon's Knot (Baby Blanket)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRRcbQ9kPXs

Naztazia

Image Attributions

Some of the images in this book are mine. All images shared from Flickr are shared under the Creative Commons License.

Hooks and Yarn

Image shared on Flickr by Davina Harrison
https://www.flickr.com/photos/crochethooker/11732616825

Crochet Chart Symbols

Image from the Craft Yarn Council
http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/chart_crochet.html

Motif Chart

Image shared on Flickr by Maria Keays
https://www.flickr.com/photos/maria_keays/4873424724

Completed Motifs

Image shared on Flickr by Maria Keays
https://www.flickr.com/photos/maria_keays/4733638860

Crochet Graph

Image shared on Flickr by Beth Day
https://www.flickr.com/photos/beth_day/3917194726

Back of Fair Isle Crochet

Image shared on Flickr by Heather Ward
https://www.flickr.com/photos/velvet-c/1434935533

Tapestry Crochet Example

Image shared on Flickr by Noricum
https://www.flickr.com/photos/noricum/82236943

Fillet Close Up

Image shared on Flickr by Noricum
https://www.flickr.com/photos/noricum/116607350

Unicorn Filet Graph

Image shared on Flickr by Noricum
https://www.flickr.com/photos/noricum/144730638

Completed Unicorn Project

Image shared on Flickr by Noricum
https://www.flickr.com/photos/noricum/128610074

Broomstick Lace Steps

Image from Lion Brand Yarn Blog
http://blog.lionbrand.com/2012/04/26/how-to-crochet-broomstick-lace/

Broomstick Lace Example

Image shared on Flickr by singlestitches
https://www.flickr.com/photos/46858275@N07/4299569069

Beads and Yarn

Image shared on Flickr by Vleka
https://www.flickr.com/photos/22475775@N03/2165713650

Beaded Square

Image shared on Flickr by Elaine with Gray Cats
https://www.flickr.com/photos/elainegreycats/3183233956

Beaded Hat

Image shared on Flickr by Where_is_Jo_now
https://www.flickr.com/photos/where_is_jo_now/4552206956

Counted Cross Stitch Example

Image shared on Flickr by Kristen
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sewtechnicolor/6798209858

Table of Contents

Chapter One – The Right Equipment

Chapter Two – Know Your Yarn

Chapter Three – Basic Terminology

Chapter Four –Reading Patterns

Chapter Five – Basic Crochet Stitches

Chapter Six – Basic Crochet Techniques

Crochet Resources

Video Links

Pattern Links

Image Attributions

Working with Motifs

Joining Motifs

Edging Techniques

Corner 2 Corner Technique

Ripple and Wave Technique

Resource Links

Video Links

Image Attributions

How to Read a Crochet Chart

How to Read a Crochet Graph and Expert Color Work Techniques

Intarsia Crochet

Fair Isle Crochet

Tapestry Crochet

Filet Crochet

Broomstick Lace

Beads and Crochet

Designing Your Own Patterns

End Notes

Resources

Image Attributions