Crochet for Beginners: Quick and Easy Way to Master Spectacular Crochet Stitches in 3 Days (Crochet Patterns Book 1)
Author: Brown, Emma
Date: 2014-12-16
Publisher: Crochet

CROCHET FOR BEGINNERS

Quick and Easy Way to Master

Spectacular Crochet Stitches in 3 Days

By Emma Brown

Copyright© 2014 by Emma Brown - All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America.

Copyright: No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including scanning, photocopying, recording or other electronic mechanical methods, without prior written permission of the copyright holder.

First Printing, 2014 - Printed in the United States of America

“If I were able to leave you with only one piece of crochet advice, it would be to always have fun. Learn the basics, but then just go crazy with your crafty self!"

- Twinkie Chan

Table of Contents

Introduction

Tools and Materials

Hook

Yarns

Understanding Patterns

Crochet Terminology

Basic and Advanced Stitches

Starting a Crochet Project

Stitches

Finishing Project

Techniques and Stitches

Techniques

Stitches

Patterns

Beginner

Intermediate

Advanced

Practical Crocheting Tips

Glossary

FAQ

Conclusion

About the Author

Introduction

Crocheting is a hobby that is ever increasing in popularity and this is for a wide range of reasons! Not only is it fun to create your own clothing, home wares and toys, and a brilliant way to express your creativity, it is also relaxing, entertaining and often it creates a strong bond with friends or family if you decide to collaborate on a project. Crocheting is an amazingly useful skill to have, and not too challenging to come to grips with, and reading this guide will give you all the tools you need to master it within three short days – what better way could you spend your time?

Crochet is derived from the French word meaning ‘hook’ and it’s the process of creating fabric from yarn, thread or other material strands using a crochet hook. These hooks can be made from metals, woods or plastic. The process of crocheting is similar to that of knitting, in that it consists of pulling loops of material through other loops. It differs from knitting because only one stitch is active at a time, and it uses the hook rather than knitting needles, which creates a wide variety of unique stitches allowing you to create some very special products. Many people find crocheting easier to master as it only uses the one primary tool, but this simplicity allows you to become much more creative with your designs.

Watch video to Learn how to Crochet

Tools and Materials

Hook

The hook (sometimes referred to as the crochet needle) is the most important tool when starting a crocheting project. It’s a tool with a hook on one end that is used to draw yarn or thread through knotted loops. Only one is needed to create a crochet stitch.

Crochet hooks are typically made of wood, plastic, casein or metal. They are designed for right or left-handed use and the handles are all shaped in different ways for comfort, ease-of-use or personal preference.

There are two ways to hold a crochet hook:

The Pencil Grip – which involves holding the hook in the same way you would a pencil.

The Knife Grip – which is holding the hook in an overhang grip, in a similar way to how you would hold a knife.

The way you hold the hook depends on what is the most comfortable for you. Some people like to switch between the holds to prevent hand cramp or weariness.

It’s essential that you select the right crochet hook, not only for the yarn you have selected and the project you’re working on, but also for your comfort. Working with the right hook will make all the difference to your finished project.

Below is a guide to the types of hooks available.

Inline vs. Not Inline – Although the visual difference between an inline and non-inline hook is very subtle, the impact it will have on your crocheting is not. The notch on an inline hook is more passive, as it is all along one single line. If the hook has any overhang, it is referred to as not inline. Whichever hook you choose, depends on your personal preference.

Inline

Not Inline

The hook is made up of many different parts, all of which play a very important part to the crochet project. They are as follows:

Head – the head of the hook is where the yarn is kept.

Shaft – this is the neck of the hook, which is either shaped inline or not inline.

Handle – this is the portion of the hook held by the crotchetier.

Thumb Rest – this is where you rest your thumb for comfort.

Throat – this is the gap which holds the yarn.

Point – this is the very tip of the hook that is pushed into the loops of yarn.

These factors all vary in the different types of crochet hooks, and the decision on which hook(s) you purchase depends on what you’ll be using the tool for.

Below are a few examples of what is currently on the market (shown from left to right in the image below):

Generic Aluminum Hook – these hooks are generally not inline and cheap, which can be problematic if you need something sturdy. Always consider thickness when buying one of these.

Boye Hook – these hooks are also not inline, and are the most commonly referred to when talking about styles. They are very popular, most people who love to crochet have a selection in different sizes.

Addi Comfort Grip Hook – these hooks are designed with comfort in mind. The shorter handle means less to work with. Addi is a European manufacturer so their products are typically found online.

Kollage Square Hook – these are rounded, not inline hooks which are aimed at people who prefer to work with the hook in the knife grip. Kollage is American made and available in a range of different sizes and shapes.

Tulip Etimo Hook – these hooks are manufactured in Japan and are sturdy, sitting in between inline and not inline, making them the best of both worlds. They are more suitable for pencil grip users.

Hamanaka Raku Rake Double-Ended Hook – these hooks are also manufactured in Japan. The double-ended, shorter hooks are comfortable in both style of holds.

Clover Soft Touch Hook – the head of these hooks is in between inline and not inline. It’s sturdy and comfortable to use with a range of materials.

Susan Bates Hook – these are inline hooks with are a great alterative to Boye. They’re inexpensive and work well.

Bamboo Hook – these hooks are inline with a cylindrical shaped handle. They are shorter which some prefer, but others find more challenging to work with. The usage of this depends on your grip, and is better tested before buying.

The Craft Yarn Council of America – an industry trade association – has formulated a standard crochet hook and knitting needle sizes. The crochet hook size is measured by the thickness of the shaft.

Watch video for Understanding Crochet Hook Size

Yarns

The yarn is what you’ll be using to create your piece, so you will want to choose one that you like, but also one that is suitable for the equipment you have and the project you’re working on.

When buying the yarn, there are a few things you should take into consideration:

Yarn Texture – smooth yarn is easier to work with for a first project.

Yarn Color – lighter colors are easier to work with as you can see the stitches better.

Yarn vs. Crochet Thread – thread is more challenging to work with, but perfect for projects such as doilies.

Yarn Weights – Medium to higher weights are easier to start with.

The main choices of yarn available are:

Wool Yarn – this is an excellent choice for practicing crochet stitches as it’s easy to unravel and rework.

Cotton Yarn – this is an inelastic fiber which makes it slightly more challenging than wool.

Acrylic Yarn – this is very popular as it’s available in a variety of colors and it’s also affordable.

The way you hold the yarn while you work is down to what feels comfortable for you, but blow is a few tips to get you started:

• You place the yarn in your less dominant hand.

• The yarn hand feeds the yarn to your hook.

• The yarn hand controls the tension of the yarn being fed, and determines how loose or tight your finished project will be.

• You can practice weaving the yarn through your fingers to see which feels the most comfortable and controlled for you.

Watch video on How to Hold Crochet Yarn

The Craft Council of America has produced a chart of yarn weights and their suitability to crochet hooks:

Understanding Patterns

A key part to understanding crochet patterns is understanding the language they are written in. They use a lot of abbreviations to make the text more concise. These abbreviations are included in the Glossary section of this guide.

Once you are familiar with the stitches and the relevant abbreviations, you will need to work out if the pattern is written in rows or rounds. Rows will be to create something back and forth, such as a blanket; rounds are to crate tubes with no seams, such as for a hat.

In the pattern, the directions for each round or row will be written on a separate line. If you’re working in rows, you’ll turn your work at the end of each row then work back across the top of the previous row, whereas if you’re working in rounds you’ll work in a continual spiral so you won’t need to turn the work.

At the end of each row or round, the pattern will give the number of stitches you should have completed in parentheses, so you can confirm that you are doing it right.

Most rounds include a set of repeated instructions. This is indicated with symbols which vary from pattern to pattern. This may be brackets ( ) [ ] or asterisks * * around the stitches that are to be repeated. After whichever symbol is chosen will be the number of times these stitches are to be done. For example:

(sc2tog, sc in the next st) 3 times, 2 sc in the next st.

Which means you should sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc 2 sc. (Check Glossary for abbreviations.).

So an example of a full line of instructions could be:

Rnd 5: (2 sc in the next st, sc in the next 3 st )6 times (30 st)

Which may look intimidating to start with, but once you break it all down it much easier to understand.

Rnd 5: This is the fifth round in the pattern.

2 sc in the next st. Make 2 single crochet stitches, both in the same stitch.

Sc in the next 3 st. Make 2 single crochet stitch into each of the next 3 stitches.

6 times. Repeat everything inside the brackets 6 times.

(30 stitches) You will make a total of 30 stitches in this round.

So as you can see, it’s all about breaking down the instructions into workable directions.

Video on how to Read Crochet Patterns

CROCHET TERMINOLOGY

Acrylic –Synthetic yarn

Back Loops - The loops on the top of your crocheting work are the front loops. The ones behind these are the back loops.

Back Loops Only - This means to focus only on the back loops.

Back Loop Single Crochet - A variation of the single crochet stitch which focuses only on the back loops.

Coned Yarn - Yarn that has been wound onto a cone shaped holder.

Color Flashing - This is an effect that can happen when using variegated yarn. It’s when an unintentional pattern occurs i.e. zig zags.

Double Crochet - This stitch is taller than a single crochet stitch and it’s formed by the ‘Yarn Over’ technique.

Floats - This describes the unused strands of yarn that are carried across the back of the project.

Freeform Crochet - This allows the crocheter explore the craft in unique and unexpected ways.

Frog - ‘To frog’ = to rip out stitches. ‘Frogging’ = adding functional or decorative pieces, such as buttons.

Granny Square- This is a crocheted motif that is made from a ring of chain stitches that is built outwards.

Half Double Crochet - These are half a double crochet stitch.

Inelastic - This is yarn that is slow to recover its shape (or doesn’t at all) once it has been stretched.

Kitchen Cotton - This is a yarn that is useful for making projects for kitchen use; potholders, dishcloths, placemats, etc.

Loops - Loops are the integral part of crocheting and are created using the hook.

Pjoning - This is using the slip stitch to create beautiful fabrics.

Place Maker - Make a mark on your work (preferably one that can easily be removed) to help you locate a spot later.

Plarn - ‘Plastic Yarn’- often plastic bags that have been cut up and repurposed into yarn.

Protein Fiber - A fiber made from protein.

Scrapghan - An afghan created from yarn scraps.

Shell Stitch - Works multiple stitches into one single stitch.

Self-Striping Yarn - A type of variegated yarn which has two or more colors. Often there are long lengths of each color before it changes.

Single Crochet - A basic crochet stitch.

Slipstitch - A loose stitch joining layers of fabric which isn’t visible externally.

Tapestry Needle - A hand sewing needle that’s useful for adding embroidery.

Turning Chain - A group of stitches that facilitates the transition between the rows of crochet stitches.

Treble Crochet - A taller stitch than the double crochet.

Variegated Yarn - Yarn that has variety throughout.

Work Even - Continuing in the same stitch patter, without increasing or decreasing.

Worsted Weight Yarn - A medium weight yarn.

Yarn Cake - A method for winding yarn.

Yarn Over - This is a stitch which involves wrapping the yarn from back to front before placing the hook in the stitch.

Basic and Advanced Stitches

STARTING A CROCHET PROJECT

When beginning a crochet project, the first thing you’ll want to do is create a slip knot on your hook – which is never stated in the pattern, but is assumed and shown in the diagram below.

Watch video on How to Make a Crochet Slip Knot

Once you have done this, you’ll want to create the foundation chain at the length specified in the pattern. This may be written in one of two ways:

Row 1: Ch 20, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.

Ch 20.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.

These both mean exactly the same thing; make a chain of 20 stitches loosely. A chain stitch is created by holding the end of the slip knot between your thumb and middle finger, then wrapping the yarn from back to front around the shaft of your hook. You will then use the hook to draw the yarn through the loop on the hook.

Once you have completed your foundation chain, be sure to count the stitches carefully, but be sure not to include the slip knot in that – the loop on the hook is never counted as a stitch.

Watch video on How to Make a Crochet Chain

When you have done this, you will complete the second part of the instruction ‘sc in 2nd ch from hook’ which means that you’ll start crocheting from the second chain (or stitch) away from the hook.

Now that you have completed the first row, it is time to turn your work (if you’re working in rows) and move onto the next set of instructions.

STITCHES

Single Crochet Stitch

If the instruction tells you to create a single crochet stitch – or SC – you will want to do this:

1. Make your Slip Knot (as shown above).

2. Bring your yarn over the hook from back to front and grab it with the hook.

3. Draw the hooked yarn through the slip knot and onto the hook.

4. Skip the first chain stitch.

5. Insert the hook into the centre of the next chain stitch and draw the yarn through the stitch and up onto the hook. You will now have two loops.

6. Bring the yarn over the hook from back to front and draw it through both loops on the hook. One loop remains on the hook – this is your single crochet stitch.

Watch video: How to Crochet – Single Crochet Stitch

Half Double Crochet Stitch

If your pattern requires you to create a half double crochet stitch – or Hdc – then you will want to do this:

1. Make your Slip Knot and create your foundation chain, before chaining two more stitches.

2. Draw your yarn over your hook and insert your hook into the third chain from the hook.

3. Draw your yarn over the hook and gently pull the wrapped hook through the centre of the chain stitch, carrying the wrapped yarn through the stitch. You will now have three loops on your hook.

4. Draw your yarn over the hook and pull the yarn through all three loops on your hook – this is one half double crochet stitch completed.

Watch video on Half Double Crochet Stitch

Double Crochet Stitch

If your pattern wants you to create a double crochet stitch – or DC – you’ll do the following:

1. Make your Slip Knot stitch and create your foundation chain.

2. Bring your yarn over the hook from back to front and grab it with the hook.

3. Insert the hook into the fourth chain from the hook.

4. Draw the yarn over the hook and pull it through the chain. You should now have three loops on the hook.

5. Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook.

6. Yarn over again and pull through the remaining two loops – a double crochet stitch has been made.

Watch video on Double Crochet Stitch

Treble Crochet Stitch

If the instructions tell you to create a treble crochet stitch – or Tr – you will want to:

1. Make your Slip Knot stitch and create your foundation chain.

2. Bring your yarn over the hook from back to front twice and grab it with the hook.

3. Insert the hook into the fifth chain.

4. Bring the yarn over the hook and draw it through the chain stitch and onto the hook. You should now have four loops on the hook.

5. Yarn over and draw it through the first two loops, leaving you with three loops on your hook.

6. Bring the yarn over the hook again and draw it through the first two loops, which will leave you with two loops on the hook.

7. Bring the yarn over the hook again and draw it through the remaining two loops – this is a treble crochet stitch.

Watch video on How to Treble Crochet

Chain Stitch and Turning Chains

A chain stitch is a series of looped stitches to form a chain like pattern, which as you have seen, is crucial to crocheting. How chain stitches are created, is described in the ‘Starting a Crochet Pattern’ section of this guide earlier in this chapter.

You will want to crochet a turning chain – or t-ch – after you have completed a chain and turned your work, to ensure your work is all in line. This stitch is not counted in the rest of the chain.

The number of stitches you will want in your turning chain, depends on what you are working with. Below is a list demonstrating this:

Video on All About Turning Chains

Slip Stitch

Slip stitches are a way to create ‘invisible’ stitches. If your pattern requires you to do one, you will want to:

- Insert the hook front to back under the top of the second chain from the hook.

- Yarn over the hook, then pull the yarn through both loops on the hook, leaving you with just one loop.

Watch video: How to Crochet - The Slip Stitch

FINISHING PROJECT

To finish off you crochet project, you’ll want to fasten the yarn:

1. Cut the yarn about 6 inches away from the hook.

2. Using the hook, draw the cut end of the yarn through the last remaining loop on your hook.

3. Pull gently on the yarn to finish off the work.

4. Thread the remaining yarn tail onto a yarn needle.

5. Weave the 6 inch tail of yarn up and down through 3 or 4 stitches in a zig zag pattern.

6. Do the same going back the way you came.

7. Cut the yarn about ¼ inch from the fabric and gently pull the fabric which will make the end disappear whilst keeping your work secure.

Video on Finishing your Crochet Project

Techniques and Stitches

There are many more advanced techniques and stitches which can make your crocheting projects much more aesthetically pleasing and fun to create.

TECHNIQUES

Yarn over Hook

Wrapping the yarn over your crochet hook is called Yarn Over – or Yo – and it’s the most basic step to every crochet stitch. That being said, it must be done right or you won’t be able to draw the yarn smoothly onto the next stitch. To do this, you need to:

1. Slide your slip knot to the shaft of your hook.

2. With your yarn hand, hold the tail of the slip knot between your thumb and middle finger.

3. Using the forefinger on your yarn hand, bring the yarn up behind the hook.

4. Lay the yarn over the shaft, positioned between the slip knot and the throat of the hook.

Watch video on How to Yarn Over in Crochet

Double Strands

Some patterns will instruct you to work with two strands of yarn at once; these can be two of the same color, or two different. All you would need to do to achieve this, is to use both strands to create your slip knot and then continue to treat both strands as one while you work.

Watch video: Tips on Crocheting with two strands of yarn

Increases and Decreases

To increase – or inc – in crochet, you simply work in more than one stitch, as specified by the pattern, into the same hole. This will increase the number of stitches in the current row you’re working on in comparison to the previous row.

To decrease – or dec – you work in the first stitch as specified, skipping the final step of the stitch. This is the part where you draw a final loop through the loops on your hook, which leaves the worked loops on the crochet hook, before moving onto the next stitch. When you have completed the second stitch, you’ll draw the yarn through all of the stitches on your hook, to draw the first and second stitch together, leaving you with less stitches in the current row in comparison to the previous row.

Watch video on Increases and Decreases

Changing Colors

Once you have started crocheting, there will be a point in which you’ll want to change the color of the yarn you’re using. To do this, you need to:

1. Start the work in color A.

2. When you’re at the point that you wish to change, work as far as the last single stitch in the row or round, but leave the final stitch unfinished.

3. Grab color B with your crochet hook.

4. Pull up a loop with color B. You may need to gently tug the yarn of color A to keep the loops from getting too big.

5. You then need to decide whether or not to cut color A. If you’re going to use it again within the next few rows, it is better leave as it is, but if not then you’ll want to cut the yarn with approximately six inches to spare, which you’ll weave in later.

Watch video How to Change Colors Seamlessly

Working in the Round

To begin a crochet pattern that works in rounds, you first need to create the centre ring and crochet the first round. After you complete the number of stitches needed in the first round, join the first and last stitches to complete the circle. Here are the steps to do this:

1. Chain 6 stitches then insert your hook into the first chain stitch you made, forming a ring.

2. Draw the yarn over your hook, then pull it through the stitch and loop it onto your hook, completing your centre ring.

3. Chain 1 stitch, making the turning chain for a single crochet.

4. Insert your hook into the centre ring.

5. Yarn over your hook and draw the yarn through the centre ring.

6. Yarn over your hook and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook.

7. Continue to work single crochet stitches into the ring until you cannot fit anymore.

8. Insert your hook under the 2 top loops of the first single crochet stitch you made.

9. Yarn over your hook and draw the yarn through the stitch and the loop on your hook to complete a slip stitch.

10. Chain 3 stitches to create the turning chain.

11. Work 1 double crochet stitch under the top 2 loops of the first stitch, the stitch directly below the turning chain. Remember, you do not need to turn your work.

12. Work 2 double crochet stitches into each stitch around, then join the first and the last stitch of the round with a slip stitch, completing the round.

Watch video How to Crochet in a Round

Making Cords

A cord has multiple purposes, and is often thought of as something you knit, but as you can see from the direction below, you can also use crochet to create one.

1. Take two long lengths of yarn and double them over.

2. Make a slip knot on your crochet hook with both these pieces of yarn.

3. To make the first stitch of your cord, pull the first loop through the second.

4. Alternating yarn, continue to pull the opposite yarn through the loop on the hook. This will start to resemble a cord as you go.

5. To finish, pull one of the yarn pieces all the way through the opposite loop. Pull the yarn tight and secure and tie two knots for each strand.

Watch video Crochet an i-cord

Joining Yarn

This is an important step in crocheting, because if you reach the end of a ball of yarn, but need to continue the project, you want this to be seamless to not spoil the appearance of your work. To do this, follow these steps:

1. Double crochet across the row, stopping before the last stitch of the row.

2. Work the last double crochet stitch to the point where 2 loops are left on the hook.

3. Wrap the end of the new yarn around the hook, from back to front.

4. Draw the new yarn through the 2 loops on your hook.

5. Tug on the dropped end of the old yarn at the base of the double crochet to tighten up the stitch.

6. Remove the loop from your hook.

7. Insert your hook into the top of the last double crochet down through the centre of the stitch.

8. Yarn over using the end of the old yarn at the bottom of the stitch.

9. Draw the tail end up through the stitch.

10. Stick your hook back through the hoop to begin your next row.

Watch video for  Different ways to Join Yarn

Sewing Together

A great way to join crocheted pieces together is by using a technique called the whip stitch.

1. Align the pieces you’d like to join together.

2. Weave the yarn back and forth through several stitches on one of the pieces to secure the end. Remember to match the yarn to the pieces you’re joining for a better effect.

3. Insert the needle and pull the yarn through the inside loops of the first 2 corresponding stitches of the pieces to be joined. Pull the yarn tight enough to join the pieces, but not too tight, distorting the pieces.

4. Draw the yarn up and over the 2 loops of the first stitch.

5. Repeat the last step through the entire edges to be joined.

6. At the end of the seam, weave the yarn back and forth through several stitches to secure.

Watch video on How to Whipstitch Crochet Seams

Sewing on Buttons

There are many reasons you may wish to add buttons onto a crocheted project. Whether it’s for decoration or practicality, the way you administer them is the same:

1. Use a thread that matches your crocheted project.

2. With the back side of your project facing you, slip your needle through a few of the crocheted chains.

3. Pull the thread through until the tail is almost gone and wrap the thread around a single strand of yarn a few times to secure it.

4. Pull your needle through the project to the front in the position that you wish to attach your button.

5. Sew the thread through the button and the project a few times to secure it.

6. Finish at the back of your project, repeating step 3 to secure the button.

Watch video: Sewing Buttons on Crochet

Making Pom Poms

Pom Poms are very simple to make, and are a great addition to a crochet project. To create a pom pom, follow the instructions below:

1. Continuously wrap the yarn around 3 of your fingers, approximately 100 times.

2. Gently slide the bundle of yarn off of your hand.

3. With the same colored yarn, tie the bundle together in the middle.

4. Cut all of the loops on the yarn and trim the shape as desired.

5. You can then sew this to your project using a needle.

If you want to increase or decrease the size of the pom pom, use a different number of fingers and wrap it round less or more times. Pom poms are very simple to create and the more you make, the better you will get at making them.

Watch video on How to Make a Pom Pom by Hand

STITCHES

Making Ridges

Ridges can be crocheted for a number of reasons; to add detail to a design, to finish something off nicely or even to give a textured effect. To do this, you need to:

1. Make your Slip Knot stitch and create your foundation chain.

2. Start with a double crochet stitch and repeat this along the row.

3. Don’t turn your work; instead work in single crochet stitches from left to right.

4. Create a slip stitch in the turn chain to end this row.

5. Chain 3 stitches and skip the first stitch to create a double crochet stitch in the back loop of the second stitch away from the hook.

6. Repeat these steps until you have the ridge that you desire.

Watch video on How to Crochet Ridges

Shell Borders

Shell borders are very popular as they give a crochet project a pretty edge, without being too fussy or difficult to do. To crochet a shell stitch:

1. Make a slip knot and crochet your foundation chain.

2. Work in a single crochet stitch into the second chain from your hook.

3. Skip the next two chain stitches, then work in a double crochet stitch into the next chin after that.

4. Work four more double crochet stitches into the same chain stitch, completing five double chain stitches.

5. Skip the next two chain stitches, then work a single crochet stitch in the next chain after that.

6. Skip the next two chain stitches and start over again.

Watch video on  Crochet Shell Border Stitch

Forming Picots

The picot stitch is usually used as edging and added onto a finished garment. You can either start along the edge of something you have already created, or begin by creating a foundation chain of stitches.

1. Single crochet in the first stitch, then chain 3 stitches and single crochet in the next stitch.

2. Single crochet in the next 3 stitches.

3. Chain 3 and single crochet in the next stitch – forming the picot.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you reach the end of your work to create a chain.

Watch video How to Crochet – Picot Stitch

Making different shapes

The possibilities when crocheting are endless, and shapes are a good place to start as they are simple, but very good practice for getting to grips with the basics. Below are the details for how to create some basic crochet shapes.

Circle

1. Start by working a round.

2. Work 2 stitches into each stitch of the previous round.

3. Work 1 stitch into the next stitch, then 2 stitches into the next stitch all around, ending each round with a slip stitch.

4. Repeat step 3 until the desired size is achieved.

Watch how to Make a Flat Circle

Square

1. Make a slip knot and create your foundation chain.

2. Create a half double crochet stitch.

3. Create a single crochet stitch in every stitch along the rest of the row.

4. Turn your work at the end of the row and repeat steps 2 and 3.

5. Repeat step 4 until the square is complete.

Watch video Chainless Corner Crochet Square

Triangle

1. Make a slip knot and create 1 chain stitch.

2. Turn your work and increase 1 stitch at the beginning and end of the row.

3. Repeat step 2 until the triangle is complete.

Watch video on How to Crochet a Triangle Shape

Crochet Flowers

A flower can be a great accessory added to a garment or household project. To crochet a flower, you need to:

1. Make a slip knot and create a foundation chain of 6 stitches.

2. Use a slip stitch to tie up the ends of the chain, creating a circular shape. This counts as your first double crochet stitch and will be the base for the petals.

3. Make 14 double crochet stitches into the loop, forming the next ring.

4. Make a slip stitch in the first chain of 3, joining the second circle.

5. Create a half double crochet stitch into the first stitch.

6. Make a double crochet stitch and a triple crochet stitch into this first stitch, which will start to give your first petal shape.

7. In the next stitch, create a treble crochet stitch, a double crochet stitch and a half double crochet stitch which will round off your petal.

8. Make a slip stitch in the next stitch.

9. Repeat steps 4 to 8 until you have 5 petals.

Watch video on How to Crochet a Simple Flower

Stitches in Reverse

The reverse stitch is sometimes referred to as a crab stitch which creates a twisted, rounded edge that’s great for finishing off a project. It’s done like this:

1. Insert your crochet hook from front to back, in the next stitch to the right. Be sure to have the right side of your work facing you.

2. Yarn over and draw the yarn through the stitch in a similar way to how you do a single crochet stitch – just in reverse.

3. Yarn over and draw the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook completing one single reverse crochet stitch.

Watch video for Reverse Single Crochet Stitch

Cluster Stitch

The cluster stitch is made up of a number of stitches that are half closed, then joined together as described below.

1. Make a slip knot and create your foundation chain.

2. Yarn over hook, insert hook into the next stitch.

3. Yarn over, draw yarn through the stitch.

4. Yarn over, draw through 2 loops on the hook.

5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 three times.

6. Yarn over and draw through the 5 loops on the hook. This completes a cluster created with 4 double crochet stitches.

Watch how to Crochet Cluster Stitch

For more info on stitches watch video for Advanced Crochet Techniques

Patterns

Below is a selection of patterns that you might like to try. They can be completed within three days once you have mastered all of the stitches and crochet techniques described in the sections of this guide above. They range from beginner to intermediate and advanced.

BEGINNER

Baby Block Sampler

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Lightweight yarn.

Needle: L.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle, stitch marker.

Pattern Instructions:

Ch 105 (121, 145).

Row 1: Place a marker in the first ch from your hook. sc in 3rd ch from hook. [ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch.] Rep across entire row. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: [sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the rest of the row. At the end of the row, work a sc st into the st where you placed the marker; you can remove the marker before working the stitch. Ch 1, turn.

Rows 3 and Up: The rest of the rows are all exactly the same as row 2, with one minor difference: at the end of the row you'll work your last sc st into the turning chain of the previous row. Rep this row until the baby blanket is the length you want it to be.

Once the blanket is the length you want it to be, finish the project as directed previously.

Watch video for Easy Crochet Striped Baby Blanket

Fishy Cat Toy

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Microspun yarn, small sections of black and white yarn, ribbon, catnip and stuffing.

Needle: E.

Tools: Crochet hook, needles.

Pattern Instructions:

Ch 3, work 10 sc in 3rd ch from hook.

Row 1: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st in beg st-20 sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st in beg st.

Rows 3-6: Rep Rnd 2.

Row 7: Ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st, rep from * around, join with sl st in beg st-30 sts. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

Large Fin Instructions (Make 2):

Ch 13.
Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in each of next 3 ch, tr in each of next 3 ch, hdc in each of next 3 ch, sc in last ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Small Fin Instructions (Make 2):

Ch 8.
Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in each of next 3 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Eye Instructions (Make 2):

With white yarn, ch 2. Work 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Finishing Instructions:

Stuff fish, adding bells and catnip if desired. Thread yarn tail into large-eyed needle, weave through sts at opening, gather tightly together and fasten off. Sew on fins. With black yarn, embroider a French knot on each Eye, sew Eyes to Fish. Tie hanging string securely to fish and finally weave in the ends.

Watch video for Crochet Goldfish

Valentine's Heart

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Lightweight yarn.

Needle: D.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle.

Pattern Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 2, 15 dc into ring, sl st into top of first dc.

Row 2: Ch 2, 1 dc into same st, 4 trc into next stitch, 2 dc into next st, 1 hdc into each of next 4 sts.

Row 3: 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc into next st.

Row 4: 1 hdc into each of next 4 sts, 2 dc into next st, 4 trc into next st, 1 dc into next st, ch 2, sl st into same st.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Watch video how to Crochet Mesh Heart

Fingerless Mittens

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn.

Needle: K.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle, stitch marker.

Pattern Instructions:

Before making your slip knot, pull out a length of yarn measuring about 12 inches or so. Leave this unworked; you will use it later for stitching the side seams of your fingerless gloves together. Ch 23 (25, 27, 29).

Row 1: Place a marker in the first ch from your hook. sc in 3rd ch from hook. [ch 1, skip next ch, sc in next ch.] Rep sequence in brackets across the row. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: [sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the row. At the end of the row, work a sc st into the st where you placed the marker; you can remove the marker before working the stitch. Ch 1, turn.

Rows 3 and Up: The rest of the rows are all exactly the same as row 2, with one minor difference: at the end of the row you'll work your last sc st into the turning chain of the previous row. Rep this row until the piece is as long as you want it to be.

Finishing off:

End off, leaving enough yarn for you to stitch the side seams and weave in the remainder. Use a whip stitch to sew the seams together.

Watch video How to Crochet Fingerless Mitten Gloves

Baby Pom Pom Hat

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Medium weight yarn.

Needle: I.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle.

Pattern Instructions:

Beginning round is created using the FDC stitches, this allows for more stretch than the conventional chain and double crochet beginning.

Watch video on Foundation Double Crochet FDC

Round 1: Using the above instructions make one beginning FDC stitch and 47 FDC stitches. You will need to have a total of 48 stitches. Sl st into the top ch of the beg ch 3, ch 2, do not turn.

There will be a gap on the bottom when you connect, you will take the beginning tail and attach and weave in at the end.

Round 2: [fpdc on next st, bpdc on next st] repeat within brackets, around, fpdc on the last st., sl st in top of ch 2 st, ch 2, do not turn.

Round 3: Repeat round2.

Rounds 4-10: Dc in same st as sl st, dc in each st around, sl st to 1st dc {Not CH}, ch 2, do not turn.

Round 11: Dc in same st as sl st, dc in each st around, sl st to 1st dc {Not CH}, ch 1.

Finishing Off: Hold hat flat {You will be working through two stitches at the same time while closing the top} sl st across. Tie off. Weave in ends.

Create a pom pom using the previous instructions shown before in this guide, and sew it to the top of the hat

Watch video on how to Crochet Baby Beanie Hat With Pom Pom

Baby Blanket

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Lightweight yarn.

Needle: H.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle.

Pattern Instructions:

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hk and ea ch across, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Right Side: Sc in first st, [work cl in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, rep from] across, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc in ea st across.

Row 4: Sc in first 2 sc, work cl in next sc, [ sc in next 2 sc, cl in next sc, rep from] across to last sc, sc in last sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc in ea sc across.

Repeat 7 times. Finish off and weave in the ends.

Edging Instructions:

Row 1: Attach yarn in top right corner, work (sc, ch 1, sc) 3 times, [sk 1 st, sc, ch 1, sc in next st, rep from] to corner, work [sc, ch 1, sc] 3 times in corner, sk 1 row, sc, ch 1, sc in next row. Rep inside brackets to corner. Work other 2 sides to correspond.

Row 2: Work sc, ch 1, sc in ea ch-1 sp. Finish off.

Watch how to Crochet Baby Blanket

Shell Stitch

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Light to medium weight yarn.

Needle: Match your hook to your yarn.

Tools: Crochet hook.

Pattern Instructions:

Make a foundation chain, then make 5 double crochet in the 3rd stitch, * skip 2 chains, make a single crochet in next stitch, skip 2 and make 5 double crochet in next stitch.

Row 1: Turn, work 4 dc in the 4th ch., * skip 2 ch., 1 sc in next ch., skip 2 ch., 5 dc in next ch. Repeat from *, and end with 1 sc.

Row 2: Ch. 3, and turn. Work 4 dc into S.C. * 1 sc into 3rd dc of previous row, 5 dc into sc of previous row. Repeat from * across row.

Repeat Row 2 throughout until you have completed the border.

Watch video on How to Make the Crochet Shell Stitch

V Stitch

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Light to medium weigh yarn.

Needle: Match your needle to your yarn.

Tools: Crochet hook.

Pattern Instructions:

To complete each V stitch, work 1 dc st, 1 ch st, and 1 more dc st in the same chain or space. In this variation of the v stitch, you’ll stack rows and rows of v stitches on top of each other.

Crochet your foundation chain.

Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook. The last 3 chs counts as the 1st dc in the row. Ch 1, skip next ch, [dc in next ch, ch 1, dc in same ch. Skip next 2 chs.] Rep the sequence in brackets across the row. At the end of the row, ch 1, skip 2 chs, then work 1 dc in ea of the next 2 ch sts. ch 3, turn.

Row 2: your turning chain counts as the first dc in the row. Dc in next dc. Ch 1, work 1 v st in ea v st across the row. Ch 1, skip next ch, work 1 dc in ea of the last 2 dc sts.

Rep row 2 until the piece reaches your expectations for being a good length, then end off and weave in your ends.

Watch video - Crochet the V Stitch

Mesh Scarf

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn.

Needle: I.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle.

Pattern Instructions:

Ch 139.

Row 1: dc in 6th ch from hook. [ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next ch.] Rep sequence in brackets all the way across the row.

Row 2: Ch 4, turn. Skip the first ch. dc in next dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc.] Rep the sequence in brackets all the way across the row.

Rows 3 and Up: Rep row 2 until the scarf is as wide as you want it to be.

Finishing the Scarf:

End off, leaving enough yarn for you to weave in your ends. Thread your tapestry needle using this end of yarn and weave it into the work so that it cannot be seen.

Watch video for Mesh Stitch Scarf

Granny Square

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn or crochet thread.

Needle: Match needle to yarn.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle.

Pattern Instructions:

Ch 5. Join with a sl st to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 3 (this counts as the first dc). Work 2 more dc in ring, [ch 2, 3 dc] repeat within brackets 3 times. Ch 2, sl st to join to beginning of round. (= 12 sts).

Work your way over to the corner by crocheting several slip stitches into the next stitches, until you get to the next ch-2 space. Begin the next round in this space.

Round 2: Ch 3. 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in same space, [ch 2, 3 dc in next space, ch 2, 3 dc in same space] repeat within brackets 2 more times for a total of 3 times. Ch 2, sl st to join the end of the round to the beginning of round. (= 24 sts).

Work several slip stitches so your next round can start in a ch-2 space.

Round 3: Each side of the square will have 9 sc sts, as follows: work 1 sc into corner space, work 1 sc into each of the next 3 dc sts, work 1 sc in the ch-2 space, work 1 sc into each of the next 3 dc sts, work 1 sc into ch-2 corner space, ch 2 to form corner. Repeat this entire sequence three more times for the remaining three sides of the square. Then ch 2 for corner and join with a sl st to join the end of the round to the beginning of the round. You'll end up with a total of 36 sc sts.

Round 4: Sc in each sc; when you get to the corners, work 1 sc in each ch-2 corner space, ch 2, work another sc in same corner space, then continue working sc. Join the end of the round to the beginning with a sl st. You'll end up with a total of 44 sc sts in this round; there are 11 sc sts on each side of the square.

End off. Weave in ends. Block if desired.

Watch video How to Crochet a Granny Square

Heart Hat

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Light weight yarn.

Needle: H.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle.

Pattern Instructions:

Row 1: Ch4, sl st to form loop. Ch 2, 12 dc into loop. Sl st to first ch2 (12 st).

Row 2: Ch2, dc in same st, 2 dc in each ch around, sl st to last st (24 st).

Row 3: Ch2, dc in same st, [1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st] repeat within brackets. Sl st to last st (36 st).

Row 4: Ch2, dc in same st, [1 dc in next 2 st, 2 dc in next st] repeat within brackets. Sl st to last st (48 st).

Row 5: Ch2, dc in same st, [1 dc in next 4 st, 2 dc in next st] repeat within brackets. 1 dc in each of last 4 st. Sl st to last st (54 st).

Rows 6-12: Ch2,dc in same st, 1 dc in each st all the way around. Sl st to last st.

Rows 13-15: Ch1, sc in same st, 1 sc in each st all the way around, sl st to last st.

Crochet hearts and tassels for added decoration.

Watch video for Crochet Heart Hat

Scarf

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn.

Needle: N.

Tools: Crochet hook.

Pattern Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 12, then Treble crochet in the 4th chain from the hook, and in every ch across.

Row 2: Chain 4, and triple crochet into each stitch across.

Finish off.

Watch video How to Crochet a Scarf

Shawl

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn.

Needle: G.

Tools: Crochet hook.

Pattern Instructions:

Ch 4 loosely, 2 hdc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 ch sts - 6 hdc.

Row 1: Ch1, 2 hdc in 1st st, 1 hdc in next st, [2 hdc in next st] twice, hdc in next st, 2 hdc in last st -- 10 hdc.

Row 2: Ch 1, 2 hdc in 1st st, hdc in next 3 sts, [2 hdc in next st] twice, hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in last st -- 14 hdc.

Place locking stitch markers on the center 2 sts. To do this, begin counting at one edge and place marker on the 7th and 8th hdc st.

Row 3: Ch1, 2 hdc in 1st st, hdc in next 5 sts, [2 hdc in next st with stitch marker, replace marker on last st made] twice, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in last st - 18 hdc.

Row 4: Ch 1, 2 hdc in first st, hdc in each st to marker, [2 hdc in next st with stitch marker, replace marker on last st made] twice, hdc in each st to last st, 2 hdc in last st - 4 sts inc’d.

Continue working Row 4 until shawl is desired measurements. Be careful to place the stitch markers on the second of each increased stitch or the center point will begin to veer off in the wrong direction.

Fasten off and weave in any ends.

Watch video on How to Crochet a Granny Triangle Shawl

INTERMEDIATE

Rag Bowl

Skill Level: Intermediate.

Yarn: Cotton, material scraps.

Needle: P.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle.

Pattern Instructions:

Round 1: Ch 3, 12 sc into 3rd ch from hook, do not join rnds, mark end of each rnd with a scrap piece of yarn (12 sc).

Round 2: 2 sc in ea st around (24 sc).

Rounds 3-5: Sc in ea st around.

Round 6: [Sc, 2 sc] around (36 sc).

Rounds 7-10: Sc in ea st around.

Round 11: [Sc, sk 2 sts, 4 dc in next st, sk 2 sts] around, sl st to first sc, fasten off (24 dc, 6 sc)

Weave in the ends. Weave a strip of fabric in and out of the base of Round 11, and tie it into a bow.

Watch video for Crochet Bowl or Basket

Sunflower

Skill Level: Intermediate.

Yarn: Medium weight yarn in various colors.

Needle: H and J.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle.

Pattern Instructions:

Centre: Using the H hook, ch 4 and form a ring, 11 sc in ring, join to beg sc and fasten off.

Petals: With J hook and in back loop only, (sl st, ch 3, trc, ch 3, sl st) in each loop, join to beg sl st and fasten off.

Front of Petals: Use 2 strands and the H hook, (sl st, ch 4, sl st) in each stitch between front loops and petals, join to beg sl st and fasten off.

Finish: With 6 strands fill entire center of the flower with french knots.

Watch video for Large Sunflower Crochet Pattern

Mini Easter Basket

Skill Level: Intermediate.

Yarn: Lightweight yarn.

Needle: F

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle, plastic canvas.

The first thing you need to do is build the basket shape out of the plastic canvas. To do this, you need to:

1. Cut out one 3 ¾” x 3 ¾” square for the bottom.

2. Cut out four 3 ¾” x 2” rectangles for the basket sides.

3. Cut out one 2” x 8” rectangle for the basket handle.

4. Take the tapestry needle and yarn and sew the sides together. Then sew the sides to bottom and sew the handle in middle of two sides that are opposite of each other.

Pattern Instructions:

Ch 17

Rows 1-18: 16 SC, Ch 1 turn.

Basket Sides Instructions:

Working in rounds.

Round 19: SC around entire motif. Don’t forget to 3SC in corner sps, SL to 1st SC made, Ch 1 turn.

Rounds 20-35: SC around Motif. This time do not 3 SC in the corners, SL to 1st SC made, Ch 1, turn. (Rnd 35 tie off and hide string).

With your tapestry needle and yarn, sew around the top of the basket sewing the crochet basket and Canvas basket together. This should be a snug fit.

Handle Instructions:

Ch 43

Rows 1-5: 42 Sc, Ch 1, turn.

Row 6: SC around Entire Motif.

Place the handle on top of the Plastic hand and with your tapestry needle and yarn sew in place. Both the ends should overlap onto the basket.

Watch video for Small Easter Egg Basket Crochet Pattern

Hanging Hearts

Skill Level: Intermediate.

Yarn: Medium weight yarn and stuffing material.

Needle: D.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle.

Pattern Instructions:

Row 1: 1 ch, turn.

Row 2: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc, (= 3 st) turn.

Row 3: 2 sc in the first st, 2 sc, (= 4 st) turn.

Row 4: 2 sc in the first st, 3 sc, (= 5 st) turn.

Continue sc in rows (increase 1 sc in the first st of every row) until you have 20 st, turn.

First Heart Instructions:

Row 1: 10 sc, turn.

Row 2: Sc, crochet the first 2 st (1, 2) and the last 2 st (9, 10) together (= 8 sts).

Row 3: Sc, crochet the first 2 st (1, 2) and the last 2 st (7, 8) together (= 6 sts).

Row 4: Sc, crochet in the first 2 st (1, 2) and the last 2 st (5, 6) together (= 4 sts).

Row 5: Sc, crochet in the first 2 st (1, 2) and the last 2 st (3, 4) together (= 2 sts).

Fasten off.

Second Heart Instructions:

Re-attach in the 11th st of the 20 sts row (next to the first round section).

10 sc, turn.

Continue with the second round section, then weave in all ends.

Crochet both hearts together in sc. Leave a small opening in one of the straight sides to lightly stuff the heart. Close this opening, again using sc, then weave in all the ends.

Watch video for: Hanging Beaded Heart Crochet Pattern

Octopus Toy

Skill Level: Intermediate.

Yarn: Lightweight yarn in various colors and cotton wool for filling.

Needle: D.

Tools: Crochet hook, Tapestry needle.

Pattern Instructions:

Crochet dc’s tog. as follows: Crochet 2 dc tog. to 1 dc as follows: Push the hook through the 1st dc, pull the thread through, push the hook through the next dc, pull the thread through, yrh and pull the thread through all 3 sts on hook.

Row 1: Crochet 3ch and make a loop with a sl st

Row 2: Crochet 6 dc around the loop, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch.

Row 3: 2 dc in each dc = 12 dc, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch.

Row 4: [1 dc, 2 dc in the next dc], repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 18 dc.

Row 5:  [2 dc, 2 dc in the next dc], repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 24 dc.

Row 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in the next dc], repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 30 dc.

Row 7: [4 dc, 2 dc in the next dc], repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 36 dc.

Row 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in the next dc], repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 42 dc.

Row 9: [6 dc, 2 dc in the next dc], repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 48 dc.

Row 10-24:  1 dc in each dc, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch.

Row 25:  [6 dc, crochet the 7th and the 8th dc tog. to 1 dc] repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 42 dc.

Row 26: [5 dc, crochet the 6th and the 7th dc tog. to 1 dc], repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 36 dc.

Row 27: [4 dc, crochet the 5th and the 6th dc tog. to 1 dc] repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 30 dc.

Row 28: [3 dc, crochet the 4th and the 5th dc tog. to 1 dc] repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 24 dc.

Row 29: [2 dc, crochet the 3rd and the 4rd dc tog. to 1 dc] repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 18 dc.

Now fill the ball with cotton wool.

Row 30: [1 dc, crochet the 2nd and the 3rd dc tog. to 1 dc] repeat within brackets, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch = 12 dc.

Row 31: Crochet all dc tog. 2 and 2. Cut the thread and sew the hole together.

Eyes & Arms Instructions:

Eyes: Crochet 4 eyes, but crochet only 5 rounds. Sew the eyes to the body evenly distributed at the middle of the ball.

Arms: Crochet 6 arms, but repeat the 7th round until crochet a total of 18th rounds. Sew the arms on to the ball evenly distributed on the 9th round of the ball.

Row 1: Crochet 3ch and make a loop with a sl st in the first ch.

Row 2: Crochet 6 dc around the loop, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch.

Row 3: 2 dc in each dc = 12 dc, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, 1 ch.

Rows 4-7: Crochet dc all around, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc, sew the thread tight.

Nose Instructions:

Crochet 4 knobs and sew them on to the ball in between the eyes on the 13th round.

Row 1: Crochet 3ch and make a loop with a sl st in the first ch.

Row 2: Crochet 6 dc around the loop, finish with a sl st in the 1st dc.

Spiral Instructions:

Crochet 1 spiral and sew it on the top of the octopus

Row 1: Crochet 12 ch, turn.

Row 2: Crochet 3 dc in each ch, cut the thread.

Watch video on How to Crochet an Octopus

Flower Hair Band

Skill Level: Intermediate.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn.

Needle: G and K.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle, button.

Pattern Instructions:

Head band – use G hook.

Row 1: Ch 6.

Row 2: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 4, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc in the first 2, ch 1, skip the next st, sc in the last 2, ch 1, turn.

Rows 4-9: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next 3, 2 sc in the last, ch 1, turn.

Rows 11-16: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 17: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next 5, 2 sc in the last, ch 1, turn.

Rows 18-23: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 24: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next 7, 2 sc in the last, ch 1, turn.

Rows 25-30: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 31: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next 9, 2 sc in the last, ch 1, turn.

Rows 32-37: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 38: 2 sc in the first st, 1 sc in the next 13, 2 sc in the last, ch 1, turn.

Rows 39-54: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 55: Join the first 2 st (2sctog), 1 sc in the next 11, join the last 2 st (2sctog), ch 1, turn.

Rows 56-62: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 63: Join first 2 st (2sctog), 1 sc in the next 9, join the last 2 st (2sctog), ch 1, turn.

Rows 64-69: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 70: Join first 2 st (2sctog), 1 sc in the next 7, join the last 2 st (2sctog), ch 1, turn.

Rows 71-76: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 77: Join first 2 st (2sctog), 1 sc in the next 5, join last 2 st (2sctog), ch 1, turn.

Rows 78-83: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Row 84: Join first 2 st (2sctog), 1 sc in the next 3, join last 2 st (2sctog), ch 1, turn.

Rows 85-90: Sc in each st across, ch 1, turn.

Finish off. Sew a button in desired location.

Flower Instructions:

Use K hook.

Ch 35.

Row 1: dc in the 5th ch from the hook. [ch 1, skip 1, (dc-ch1-dc) in the next ch – v stitch made]. Repeat within brackets (16 sts), turn.

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc in first ch, [sc in the next ch-1, 6 dc in the net ch-1 – shell stitch made], repeat within brackets ending in 6 dc in the last ch-1.

Fasten off.

Starting at that end, roll first shell tightly to form the center bud. Anchor at the base of shell with 2 sts. Roll remaining strip to form a rosette shape. Secure by stitching in and out through layers of foundation ch at the bottom of this shape.

Sew the flower onto the headband.

Watch video for Crochet Easy Headband Wrap with Flower

Spiral Flowers

Skill Level: Intermediate.

Yarn: Light weight yarn.

Needle: B.

Tools: Crochet hook.

Pattern Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 4. Join with slst to first chain to form a ring.

Row 2: Ch 7. Slst in 2nd chain from hook and in each of the remaining 5 chains. Slst into center of ring. Turn your work 180 degrees clockwise. Do not flip. Slst into center of ring.

Working in the back loops only: Sc into first stitch. Hdc 2 into the second stitch. Hdc into third stitch. Dc 2 into fourth stitch. Dc into fifth stitch. Dc into sixth stitch.

Ch 2 and turn your work.

Working in the back loops only: Slst into each of the next 8 stitches. Slst into center of ring.

Petal Instructions:

Row 1: Ch 1 and turn your work.

Working into the front loops from the previous petal:

Sc into first stitch. Hdc 2 into the second stitch. Hdc into third stitch. Dc 2 into fourth stitch. Dc into fifth stitch. Dc into sixth stitch. You will have two stitches remaining, do not work into these stitches.

Row 2: Ch 2 and turn your work.

Working in the back loops only: Slst into each of the next 8 stitches. Slst into center of ring.

Repeat the Petal Instructions 9 times to give you 11 petals.

Finish off and weave in your ends.

Watch video on How to Crochet the Spiral Flower

ADVANCED

Bolero

Skill Level: Advanced.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn.

Needle: I.

Tools: Crochet hook, tapestry needle, stitch marker.

Pattern Instructions:

Ch 51 (53, 55, 57, 59).

Row 1 (Right Side): Tr in the forth ch from the hook, tr in the next 4 ch for the first front, place marker in the last tr made, tr in the next 8 ch for sleeve, place marker in the last tr made, tr in the next 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) ch for back, place marker in the last tr made, tr in the next 8 ch for sleeve, place marker in the last tr made, tr in the last 5 ch for 2nd front turn – 49 (51, 53, 55, 57) tr.

Move markers up as work progresses. When 3 tr is worked into marked st, move the marker to the center for the 3-tr group.

Row 2 (Wrong Side): Ch 2 (counts as first tr here and throughout), tr in each st to marker, 3 tr in marked st; [htr in next st, Bptr around next st] 3 times, htr in next st, 3 tr in marked st, tr in each st to next marker, 3 tr in marked st, [htr in next st, Bptr around next st] 3 times, htr in next st, 3 tr in marked st; tr in each st to end, turn—57 (59, 61, 63, 65) sts.

Row 3: Ch 2, tr in each st to marker, 3 tr in marked st, Fptr around next st, [htr in next st, Fptr around next Bptr] across to 2 sts before marked st, htr in next st, Fptr around next st, 3 tr in marked st, tr in each st to next marker, 3 tr in marked st, Fptr around next st, [htr in next st, Fptr around next Bptr] across to 2 sts before marked st, htr in next st, Fptr around next st, 3 tr in marked st, tr in each st to end,

turn—65 (67, 69, 71, 73) sts.

Row 4: Ch 2, tr in each st to marker, 3 tr in marked st, [htr in next st, Bptr around next st] across to 1 st before marked st, htr in next st, 3 tr in marked st, tr in each st across to next marker, 3 tr in marked st, [htr in next st, Bptr around next st] across to last st before next marker, htr in next st, 3 tr in marked st, tr in each st to end, turn—73 (75, 77, 79, 81) sts.

Rows 5–28: Repeat last 2 rows 12 more times—265 (267, 269, 271, 273) sts.

Row 29: Repeat Row 3—273 (275, 277, 279, 281) sts.

Body Instructions:

Row 1 (Wrong Side – Divide for Armholes): Ch 2, tr in each st to first marked st, skip first marked st and all sleeve stitches, skip 2nd marked st, tr in each st to 3rd marker, skip 3rd marked st and all sleeve sts, skip 4th marked st, tr in each st to end of row—143 (145, 163, 165, 183) sts. Leave markers in place.

Row 2: Ch 2, [tr2tog] twice, tr in each st to last 5 sts, [tr2tog] twice, tr in last st, turn—139 (141, 159, 161, 179) sts.

Row 3: Ch 2, [tr2tog] twice, [tr in next 24 (24, 27, 27, 31) sts, tr2tog] 4 times, tr in each st across to last 5 sts, [tr2tog] twice, tr in last st, turn—131 (133, 151, 153, 171) sts.

Row 4: Ch 2, [tr2tog] twice, [tr in next 23 (23, 26, 26, 30) sts, tr2tog] 4 times, tr in each st across to last 5 sts, [tr2tog] twice, tr in last st, turn—123 (125, 143, 145, 163) sts.

Row 5: Ch 2, [tr2tog] twice, [tr in each of next 22 (22, 25, 25, 29) sts, tr2tog] 4 times, tr in each st across to last 5 sts, [tr2tog] twice, tr in last st, turn—115 (117, 135, 137, 155) sts.

Row 6: Ch 2, [tr2tog] twice, [tr in each of next 21 (21, 24, 24, 28) sts, tr2tog] 4 times, tr in each st across to last 5 sts, [tr2tog] twice, tr in last st, turn—107 (109, 126, 129, 147) sts.

Row 7: Ch 2, [tr2tog] twice, [tr in each of next 20 (20, 23, 23, 27) sts, tr2tog] 4 times, tr in each st across to last 5 sts, [tr2tog] twice, tr in last st, turn—99 (101, 119, 121, 139) sts, do not fasten off.

Edging Instructions:

Round 1 (Right Side): Ch 1, *dc in next 2 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * across to last 3 (1, 3, 1, 3) sts, dc in last 3 (1, 3, 1, 3) sts, do not turn; working up front edge, work 3 dc in end of each of next 6 (6, 8, 8, 9) rows, 2 dc in end of each row to neck corner; working across opposite side of foundation ch, dc in each ch across; working down front edge, work 2 dc in end of each row to last 6 (6, 8, 8, 9) rows, 3 dc in end of last 6 (6, 8, 8, 9) rows; join with slip st in first dc, do not turn.

Round 2 (Right Side): Slip st in each st around; join with slip st to first st. Fasten off.

Sleeves Instructions:

Round 1 (Right Side): Join new yarn with slip st in marked st before the underarm join, ch 2 (counts as htr here and throughout), work 7 (7, 7, 9, 9) htr in the underarm area before the next marker, Fptr in marked st, htr in next st, *Fptr around next st, htr in next st; repeat from * around; join with slip st in top of beginning ch, turn—72 (72, 80, 82, 90) sts.

Round 2 (Wrong Side): Ch 2, htr in next st, *Bptr around next st, htr in next st; repeat from * around; join with slip st in top of beginning ch, turn.

Round 3: Ch 2, htr in next st, *Fptr around next st, htr in next st; repeat from * around, htr in last st; join with slip st in top of beginning ch, turn.

Rounds 4 and 5: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3.

Round 6: Repeat Round 2.

Round 7: Ch 3 (counts as first tr), 4 tr in same st; *skip 1 st, Fptr around next Fptr, 3 tr in same st, Fptr again around the same Fptr; repeat from * around, skip last st; join with slip st in top of beginning ch– 36 (36, 40, 41, 45) groups. Fasten off.

Weave in all the ends to finish off.

Watch video on how to Easy Crochet Bolero

Practical Crocheting Tips

10 Tips to get you started

- Learn all you can about crochet supplies so you can purchase what suits you.

- Remove all obstacles in your way. This can be your long hair, jewelry and cats (because they cannot resist a ball of yarn!) so you aren’t interrupted while you work.

- Position the yarn in a place that unwinds easily.

- Be prepared to switch hooks. Novice crocheters often work too tight or too loose. If this is the case for you, change your hook. (Too tight = a larger hook needed, too loose = a smaller hook needed).

- Take the time to make gauge switches, practicing all the stitches that you’ll need for a pattern.

- Don’t be afraid to experiment to make a project your own. If you make a mistake, you can always unravel the last few stitches.

- Take a break. If you get frustrated, taking a breather can help you refocus when you come back to work.

- A break is also good for hand and finger stretching. You don’t want to injure yourself as you work, or you might never get to finish your project.

- Keep up to date with everything crochet. There are plenty of online e-zines and forums filled with all of the latest patterns, tips, tricks and information. You never know what you’ll learn!

- Of course, the best way to master crochet is through practice. After all, practice makes perfect!

Left-Handed Crocheting

Being left-handed needn’t stop you learning to crochet. It may seem challenging at first, after all most patterns are aimed at right-handed users, and attempting to manage these will have you working backwards. Below are a few ways to get around this:

1. Reverse the pattern so that you’re holding the crochet hook in your right hand. This means that the ‘wrong side’ of the pattern is actually ‘the right side’.

2. Practice holding the hook until you’re comfortable. A lot of left-handed crocheters have created their own variation on the ‘pencil’ or ‘knife’ hold, into a way that suits them.

3. Learn by sitting across from someone right –handed, mirroring their movements!

Watch video for Left-Handed Crochet for Beginners

Creating Your Own Pattern

You may get to a stage where you have been crocheting for a while, and you’d like to try your hand at creating your own pattern.

To do this, there are a few things you should keep in mind:

• Master all the basic crochet stitches before you start, so you know the appearance and usage of each one.

• Follow a variety of patterns, noticing the mechanics of how they put a project together.

• Learn to count stitches and rows, so you’ll be able to work them into your own.

• Experiment as much as you can with materials, tools and ideas.

• Get decorative with your creations. Practice with shapes and styles.

• Try to modify an existing pattern for practice.

• Learn how a gauge works – it’s a great way to calculate stitches effectively.

• Sketch what you’d like to create to assist you in the shapes you’ll need.

• Start simple and small, building complexity as you get used to it.

• Write everything down as you go, and maybe allow other crocheters to practice your pattern to get a better idea of how it’ll work.

Watch this video to learn more tips

Glossary

Crochet patterns will often use abbreviations to make the instructions more concise.

Below is a list of the most common.

[ ] - Work instructions within the brackets as many times as directed.

( ) - Work instructions within the parentheses as many times as directed.

* - Repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed.

* * - Repeat the instructions between asterisks as many times as directed.

“ - Inches.

alt - Alternate.

approx - Approximately.

beg - Begin.

bet - Between.

BL - Back Loops.

bo - Bobble.

BP - Back Post.

BPdc - Back Post Double Crochet.

BPsc - Back Post Single Crochet.

BPtr - Back Post Treble Crochet.

CA - Color A.

CB - Color B.

CC - Contrasting Color.

ch - Chain Stitch.

ch- - Refers to chain or space previously made.

ch-sp - Chain space.

CL - Cluster.

Cm - Centimeters.

Cont - Continue.

Dc - Double Crochet.

dc2tog - Double crochet 2 stitches together.

Dec - Decrease.

Dtr - Double treble.

FL - Front Loops.

FO - Finished Object.

Foll - Follow.

FP - Front Post.

FPdc - Front Post Double Crochet.

FPsc - Front Post Single Crochet.

FPtr - Front Post Treble Crochet.

G - Gram.

Hdc - Half Double Crochet.

Inc - Increase.

lp(s) - Loop(s).

M - Meters.

MC - Main Color.

Mm - Millimeters.

Oz - Ounces.

P - Picot.

pat(s) or patt - Pattern(s).

Pc - Popcorn.

Pm - Place Maker.

Prev - Previous.

Rem - Remain.

Rep - Repeat.

rnd(s) - Round(s).

RS - Right Side.

Sc - Single Crochet.

sc2tog - Single crochet 2 stitches together.

Sk - Skip.

Sl st - Slip Stitch.

sp(s) - Space(s).

st(s) - Stitches.

tch or t-ch - Turning Chain.

Tbl - Through Back Loop.

Tog - Together.

Tr - Treble Crochet.

Trtr - Triple Treble Crochet.

UFO - Unfinished Object.

WIP - Work in Progress.

WS - Wrong Side.

yd(s) - Yard(s).

yo - Yarn Over.

Yoh - Yarn Over Hook.

FAQ

1. Is crocheting harder than knitting?

Crocheting and knitting are varied skills, so which one is easier is dependent on the person learning it. However, crocheting is certainly considered easier by most as it uses one hook rather than two needles, the process is faster and it offers more freedom.

2. What can I crochet?

Once you have mastered the skill of crocheting, you can apply it to anything; fashion, toys and other products. The possibilities are endless!

3. If I am making a scarf with single crochet, how do I make sure that each row has the same number of stitches?

To achieve this, you’ll need to crochet evenly all the way around. To do this, you will want to follow the pattern carefully and count the stitches as you go. Patterns often tell you how many stitches you should expect to have at the end of a row or round (e.g. = 18 sts). Another thing to remember is to avoid changing hooks so stitches are all same size, keeping the appearance of your work even and flat.

4. How many chains do you do to make a simple market bag?

The pattern will tell you how many chains to create when making your bag (e.g. ch 25), but you can adjust this to suit your personal requirements if you want the project to be bigger or smaller. The more you crochet, the quicker you’ll be able to figure out changes to patterns.

5. How to learn crochet easily?

As with any skill like this, practice makes perfect. This guide will give you the tools you need to start crocheting and get to grips with it within three days, but only your own dedication will determine how quickly you master it.

6. Can you do crochet one handed?

Yes you can. There are companies which sell products designed specifically for one-handed crocheting.

7. What are the best things to crochet?

There are many great things you can crochet. A great place to start is with the examples provided in this guide – they are designed to allow you to see where your preferences and skills lie. Start with the shapes and beginner patterns to get to grips with all of the stitches.

8. How do I join crochet pieces?

A whip stitch is the quickest and easiest way to join crochet pieces together without leaving any obvious bumps or stitches. There is a section about this in this guide.

9. What is the crochet pattern of the ripple stitch?

There are many brilliant online resources for crocheting and patterns, and YouTube is brilliant for user tips, tricks and advice. The pattern for a ripple stitch can be found in this video.

10. How do I read stitch patterns?

Once you have learned the abbreviations and how to separate out the instructions, reading the stitch pattern is simple. For example:

Row 25: Ch 3 (turning ch for first dc), dc in each st and space across, ending with dc in top of turning ch. Fasten off.(= 18 sts).

This means that for the 25th row of the pattern, you’ll want to start by chaining 3 for your turning chain and then work 1 double crochet stitch in each double crochet stitch and each chain-1 space across the entire row. Fasten off your work, checking that you have created 18 stitches as you do.

The more you practice, the easier this language will become to understand.

Conclusion

So as you can see from this guide, crocheting is a skill that is easy to pick up, and fun to master. Once you have gotten to grips with each stitch and technique, working out patterns will quickly become natural and then you can create whatever you want, including your very own patterns.

Crocheting is a brilliant way to create unique, homemade gifts, with a personal touch, or even cute little additions to spice up your own home or wardrobe. There isn’t a better feeling than creating something yourself, and seeing others admire it!

There are many amazing resources online for crocheters – in fact, there is quite a huge community of web pages and forums where users can share their tips and tricks. This is a great way to discover ore about your new skill, whilst meeting new people from all over the world and making friends. Once you have the ability to crochet, you won’t look back!

Watch video: Why do we knit, weave or crochet?

About the Author

Emma Brown learned to crochet at her grandmother’s feet. There were many summers that she and her parents stayed with their grandparents for weeks, and every day, Emma would sit beside her grandmother, untangling her yarn and learning how to crochet—first, a little hat for her stuffed dog, and then one for her father, and by the age of ten, she was crocheting full-size afghans as Christmas presents for her family.

The older Emma got, the more about crocheting she learned, making it a point to find the most complicated and tedious patterns she could and bringing them to her grandmother during the summer. Together they would figure them out, and then, soon, Emma did not need her grandmother’s help with the patterns any more, and they could just sit side by side and crochet.

Emma Brown’s knowledge of crocheting is more extensive than most and was built by trial and error—so she knows what really works for someone who is first starting to learn or who wants to progress from the basics to more advanced patterns and techniques. She has started crocheting circle in just about every city she’s lived in, passing her knowledge on to others, before deciding to write a book that would encompass the entirety of experience and expertise. Crochet for Beginners is that book!