Crochet Magical Creatures: 20 Easy Amigurumi Patterns
Author: Drew Hill
Date: 2022-08-29 22:00:00+00:00
Publisher: Rockridge Press
Rights: &#x00A9; 2022 by Rockridge Press, Oakland, California

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Interior and Cover Designer: Jennifer Hsu
Art Producer: Loren Susvilla
Editor: Georgia Freedman
Production Editor: Ashley Polikoff

Photography © 2022 Evi Abeler
Illustrations © Remie Geoffroi; pp. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0

For Bunker, Blueberry, Benny, and Billy: the magical creatures in my life, both past and present.

Contents

Introduction

Part One: THE MAGICAL WORLD OF AMIGURUMI

Part Two: CREATING CROCHET MAGIC

DAVINA THE
Dragon

COSMO THE
Caticorn

LEONARD THE
Dandy-Lion

PIPPIN THE
Jackalope

TOSHIKO THE
Kitsune

ZINNIA THE
Garden Fairy

GUS THE
Enchanted Mushroom

BASIL THE
Flying Pig

QUENTIN THE
Gnome

ARGOS THE
Cyclops

BARNABAS THE
Ogre

TIBERIUS THE
Yeti

KONRAD THE
Kraken

NESSIE THE
Loch Ness Monster

MARINA THE
Mermaid

SERENA THE
Hippocampus

MOIRA THE
Pegacorn

PERCIVAL THE
Griffin

JOAQUIN THE
Phoenix

GALE AND IRIS THE
Cloud Sprites

Resources

Glossary

Acknowledgments

About the Author

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to the world of magical amigurumi!

There are few words in my vocabulary more magical than “amigurumi.” This Japanese term combines the words for “crochet” and “stuffed toys,” and what’s more magical than taking a hook and some yarn and conjuring up a fantastical creature? Any wizard will tell you that the simplest spells are often the most effective, and the same holds true for amigurumi; the patterns do not need to be complicated for the creatures to be fun to make and totally adorable to look at and cuddle.

I was first enchanted by amigurumi in 2007, when I found a pattern for a small crochet manatee, and I quickly became fascinated with how a crafter can take basic geometric shapes, like circles and triangles, and combine them to make charming stuffed toys. I started making simple animals and worked my way up to re-creating characters and creatures from my favorite books. I was relieved to discover that the techniques used to make amigurumi are not so advanced as to require years of study to master. With just a few basic stitches and a little bit of stuffing, you can make any creature you like—the only limit is your imagination! This rings especially true for making magical creatures, which you can customize to suit your fancy. These little friends make incredible gifts for fantasy lovers of all ages. Be warned, though, you may need to make multiples so you can keep one for yourself!

This book will aid you on your quest to make these creatures by arming you with all the tools and knowledge you’ll need to conquer the world of magical amigurumi, whether this is your first time making amigurumi or the first time in a while that you’ve conjured a crocheted item. Part 1 includes a refresher on the basic crochet stitches and techniques you’ll need, and it also gives you tips on how to pick the right materials and tools. Part 2 contains step-by-step patterns for 20 magical creatures that are just waiting for you to bring them to life. Grab your wand hook and get ready to make a little magic!

PART ONE

The Magical World of Amigurumi

In this part, we will go over how to choose the right supplies for your project and how to read a pattern, as well as the basic stitches and techniques you will need to create magical amigurumi. Amigurumi are typically constructed by crocheting several separate pieces that are then filled with stuffing and sewn together. Most of the pieces are crocheted in the round and given shape by increasing or decreasing the number of stitches per round. We will also cover how to put the finishing touches on your creatures, as well as how to care for them, so they’ll last for years to come.

Amazing Amigurumi

Crochet is an incredibly versatile craft, which means there is no limit to the wonderful amigurumi you can make with it. You can combine different shapes and stitches to create a variety of creatures, from the simply adorable to the fabulously beautiful. Even traditionally scary monsters will warm your heart when they’re made out of yarn. Although a blank canvas of possibility might seem intimidating, amigurumi do not have to be overly complex to be incredible.

The patterns in this book are designed specifically to be easy and customizable. Once you’ve made a few of these designs, you’ll notice that a lot of elements repeat themselves, and that many of these creatures have the same head and body shapes. Accent pieces like the tail fins of a mermaid might appear in a different color as the ears of an ogre. This repetition will make it easier for you to craft a wide variety of creatures and will also give you the freedom to personalize them. If you think the dragon would look cuter without horns, leave them off. If you think the mermaid could use a pair of wings, add them. Once you’ve learned the simple skills presented in this book, you get to make the rules.

Create an Easy Crochet Tool Kit

A witch’s pantry is packed with countless strange ingredients and magical artifacts to aid her in spellcasting. Similarly, crocheters can collect and use many wonderful gadgets. But the truth is that you don’t actually need much to get started. Here, we’ll cover the basic supplies you’ll need to craft adorable amigurumi.

GETTING HOOKED

Your hook is the most important tool in your crochet kit, and it’s essential to find the one that will work best for you. In many ways, picking a hook is like selecting a magic wand: You need to consider the material it’s made from, its size and shape, and the way it feels in your hand. The size of the hook you use will depend on the type of yarn you select for your project; the rest is based on your personal preference.

Most crafters begin with a simple aluminum hook, and many still swear by them after years of crocheting. They are easily the most affordable and readily available option and are found in many craft supply stores. The two most widely known brands of aluminum hooks are Susan Bates and Boye. Both brands are incredibly comfortable to use, and the main difference between them is the point (the very tip of the hook, which gets inserted into the stitch) and the throat (the space directly below the hook). Susan Bates hooks have a pointier point and an inline throat, which can be great for beginners as it really helps “grab” the yarn. I have found that when working with certain types of yarn, however, these hooks can accidentally split the fibers, which might lead to some non-magical cursing. Boye hooks have a much rounder point and a tapered throat, which I find slides through the yarn much more easily—like a phoenix feather through butter.

Hooks come in a variety of materials other than aluminum: bamboo, stainless steel, and plastic, to name just a few. Choose whichever type feels right in your hand. I tried using a plastic hook once, but unfortunately, I was hexed with the hands of an ogre and I quickly snapped it. My personal favorite hook is a Clover Amour hook, which is an aluminum hook with an ergonomic handle (my ogre hands need the extra grip). I also have a small collection of beautiful hand-carved wooden hooks, but these can be quite expensive. I recommend sticking to the more cost-friendly options until you know exactly what you’re looking for in a hook.

Most hooks are labeled with both US and metric sizes, but just in case you find a hook with only one size listed, here is a helpful chart of hook sizes:

CROCHET HOOK SIZE

Metric

US

2.25 mm

B-1

2.75 mm

C-2

3.25 mm

D-3

3.50 mm

E-4

3.75 mm

F-5

4.00 mm

G-6

4.50 mm

7

5.00 mm

H-8

5.50 mm

I-9

6.00 mm

J-10

6.50 mm

K-10.5

8.00 mm

L-11

9.00 mm

M-13

10.00 mm

N-15

12.00 mm

P-16

SPINNING A YARN

Choosing the perfect yarn for your project is one of the most fun parts of the crochet process, second only to seeing your finished creature. Yarn comes in such a wide variety of colors, textures, materials, and sizes and each type of yarn has its advantages and disadvantages when making amigurumi. Here, we’ll cover the basics of the different types of yarn and how to choose the right one for your project.

There are three main types of yarn: animal fiber, plant fiber, and synthetic fiber. Animal fiber includes sheep’s wool, alpaca, angora, and any fiber that was once attached to or made by a live creature. Animal fiber can be an absolute dream to work with, but it does come with a set of challenges that should be taken into consideration. Some people, for instance, suffer from allergies to animal fibers, whereas others abstain from using any animal products for personal reasons. Animal fibers also have very specific care instructions, making them less than ideal for amigurumi, which receive a lot of handling and tend to require more frequent and specialized cleaning. Animal fibers are also typically the most expensive option.

Plant fibers include cotton, hemp, and any fiber that once grew from the earth. (I even have some yarn made from banana fiber.) Plant fiber is an excellent alternative to animal fiber and can be just as luxurious. Many crafters I know do the majority of their work in cotton yarn, and the results are breathtaking. However, I have found that as time goes on, most amigurumi made with plant fibers tend to lose their figures a bit.

Finally, we have synthetic fibers, such as acrylic and polyester. These are yarns made from plastic and other synthetic materials. By far the most economical option, synthetic yarns are also my favorite for making amigurumi. Most synthetic fibers are easy to care for, hypoallergenic, and keep their shape for far longer than other fibers. Because amigurumi are meant to be handled, played with, and loved, they need to be strong, flexible, and easy to clean—like synthetic fibers.

The other thing to consider is a yarn’s “weight,” or thickness. Yarn comes in different sizes or weights, starting with size 0 lace weight and going all the way up to size 7 jumbo weight. The weight of your yarn will determine the final size of your amigurumi (see Gauging Giants & Borrowers: Sizing Your Amigurumi). I made all the creatures in this book using 100 percent acrylic yarn in size 4 worsted weight (except for the jumbo Kraken, which was made using 100 percent polyester yarn in size 6 super bulky weight), but they can easily be made from another yarn of your choosing.

Although some crochet projects can eat up a lot of yarn, the patterns in this book do not. Each project requires less than a full skein of each color listed. I purchased one skein of each yarn, used the same skein for multiple creatures, and had plenty of yarn left over.

ACCESSORIES

In addition to your hook, there are a few other tools you’ll need when creating your amigurumi.

Scissors: You’ll need a good pair of scissors for trimming yarn ends. Find a pair that fits your hands comfortably.

Tapestry needle: A tapestry or darning needle is slightly larger than an embroidery needle and has a blunt tip and oversized eye. You’ll use this for sewing the pieces of your amigurumi together and for weaving in loose yarn ends. The needles come in plastic and metal and can be straight or have a curved tip.

Stitch markers: Removable stitch markers are one of the best ways to keep track of where your round begins and ends, and they also allow you to mark the placement of key elements, such as eyes. You can buy adorable, fancy stitch markers, or you can use bobby pins or even a scrap of yarn in a contrasting color.

Safety eyes: Safety eyes are small plastic eyes that come in two pieces: a round eye with a threaded peg and a plastic washer. The peg is inserted between stitches on the amigurumi and then through the washer, which holds it in place. Eyes come in a wonderful variety of sizes and colors. They are very secure but are not recommended for children under the age of three. If you’re making a toy for an infant or young toddler, it is best to sew on a piece of felt for the eyes or use yarn to embroider the eyes.

Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill (often sold as Poly-Fil) is used to give amigurumi their shape. It is available at most major craft stores and online.

Felt: Craft felt can be used to add details to your amigurumi. For any small detail that would be difficult to make out of yarn (such as eyes or noses), simply cut the shape out of craft felt and attach it with embroidery floss and a needle or use a hot glue gun. (Hot glue works best with synthetic fibers like acrylic, because the heat fuses the fibers together. For animal or plant fibers, I recommend embroidering the felt onto the project.)

Project bag: This is a must-have if you like to craft on the go. A project bag keeps all your supplies for your current project organized and together.

Fantastical Additions

The world of amigurumi is getting more magical each day, and new ways of customizing and personalizing your creatures are being introduced all the time. To give your creations a little extra shimmer, try using sparkle yarn, which comes with tinsel woven into it. Safety eyes also come in a broad range of styles, sizes, and colors. From dragon eyes to holographic rainbow eyes, there are tons of options, and most can be purchased online or in specialty craft stores.

You can apply powder blush to cheeks or even trim down false eyelashes to add to your character. If you’re giving your amigurumi away as a gift, consider adding some biodegradable confetti to the packaging or using tulle netting instead of tissue paper and tie it closed with a ribbon bow. Make sure your finished project shows how much time, effort, and love you poured into it so the recipient knows just how special they are to you.

Reading a Pattern

At first glance, a crochet pattern can seem like a complicated spell that uses unfamiliar words from an ancient language. But with a little bit of practice and a basic understanding of how patterns are laid out, you’ll be speaking fluent crochet in no time. The patterns in this book all follow the same formula and have been designed to get you crocheting as quickly as possible.

Each pattern starts with a list of materials to gather: the color and weight of yarn, hook size, and any additional accessories and tools you will need. This is followed by a complete list of all the types of stitches that will be used and their abbreviations. I always recommend reading through the list of stitches before beginning; so you can practice any that you are less familiar with.

The heart of the pattern is the instructions. These are a step-by-step guide for how to complete each round, as well as notations to let you know when to repeat a set of stitches. The instructions are written using the stitch abbreviations. Lastly, at the end of each pattern there are tips explaining how to assemble your amigurumi and add any finishing touches. I always find it helpful to read through the instructions from start to finish at least once before beginning a project to familiarize myself with the coming steps.

US VS UK

The patterns in this book are written with US terminology, which can lead to some confusion if you are already familiar with UK crochet terms. The most obvious difference between the two sets of terminologies is that a single crochet in the United States is called a double crochet in the United Kingdom. If you’re more familiar with UK terminology, here is a helpful chart to make sure you’re using the right stitches when working on your project.

US TERMS

UK TERMS

chain (ch)

chain (ch)

stitch (st)

stitch (st)

slip stitch (sl st)

slip stitch (ss)

single crochet (sc)

double crochet (dc)

half double crochet (hdc)

half treble crochet (htc)

double crochet (dc)

treble crochet (tc)

single crochet decrease (sc2tog)

double crochet decrease (dc2tog)

Essential Amigurumi Stitches

The most common stitch used in amigurumi is the single crochet stitch, because it creates a nice tidy fabric with very little space between stitches. When you combine the single crochet stitch with a few other basic stitches, you’ll be able to make any number of magical creatures. .

MAGIC RING

The magic ring is created by crocheting into a large loop that can be cinched tight; this loop is created by wrapping the yarn around your fingers and working into the center.

Step 1: With the tail end closest to you, drape the working end of the yarn over your index and middle fingers. Wrap the working end around both fingers once. Insert the hook between the yarn and top of the fingers.

Step 2: With your dominant hand index finger, hold the yarn in place and drop the nondominant hand fingers from the ring. With your nondominant hand, secure the working end of the yarn.

Step 3: Hook the working yarn and pull it through the center of the ring.

Step 4: Chain 1 to secure the ring.

Step 5: You will work your crochet stitches for the first row into the center of the ring. When you have the desired number of stitches, pull the tail tight to cinch the ring closed.

SLIP KNOT

A slip knot is your first step when crocheting a piece that begins with a base chain.

Step 1: Take a few inches of the working yarn and form a loop with your fingers. Lay the loop over your working yarn.

Step 2: Insert your hook through the center of the loop you just made and grab the working end of the yarn.

Step 3: Pull the yarn you’ve grabbed through the center of the loop, then hold onto the tail end firmly, and pull the crochet hook up to tighten the knot.

CHAIN STITCH (CH)

This is a basic stitch to form interlocking loops.

Step 1: Insert your hook into the slip knot and pull the loop snug around the throat of the hook.

Step 2: Yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop. (Do not pull this loop too tight; you want to create a nice V-shaped stitch and not pull it into a firm knot.)

Step 3: Continue to yarn over and pull the yarn through the loop on the hook until you create the required number of chain stitches. (Never count the loop on the hook or the slip knot as stitches.)

SINGLE CROCHET (SC)

The single crochet stitch is the most basic of crochet stitches.

Step 1: Insert the hook into the indicated stitch (through both loops of the head of the stitch).

Step 2: Yarn over and pull the hook through the stitch only (2 loops remain on the hook).

Step 3: Yarn over and pull the hook though the last 2 loops on the hook.

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET (HDC)

The half double crochet stitch is taller than the single crochet, yet denser than the double crochet.

Step 1: Yarn over and insert the hook into the indicated stitch.

Step 2: Yarn over and pull the hook through the stitch (3 loops remain on the hook).

Step 3: Yarn over and pull the hook through all 3 loops on the hook.

DOUBLE CROCHET (DC)

The double crochet stitch produces a softer and looser fabric.

Step 1: Yarn over and insert the hook into the indicated stitch.

Step 2: Yarn over and pull the hook through the stitch (3 loops remain on the hook).

Step 3: Yarn over and pull the hook through the first 2 loops on the hook (2 loops remain on the hook).

Step 4: Yarn over and pull the hook through the last 2 loops on the hook.

Step 5: Finished double crochet.

SLIP STITCH (SL ST)

The slip stitch is the shortest of all the stitches.

Step 1: Insert the hook into the indicated stitch.

Step 2: Yarn over and pull the hook through the stitch and loop on the hook at the same time.

BACK LOOP ONLY (BLO)

Most often when making a stitch, you will insert your hook through both loops of the head of the stitch. Occasionally you will need to insert your hook in the top of the stitch through just the back loop (the loop farthest from you) and work the next stitch as normal.

FRONT LOOP ONLY (FLO)

Just as with the back loop only stitch, occasionally you will need to insert your hook through the front of the stitch and out through the top, picking up just the front loop (the loop closest to you) and working the next stitch as normal.

PICOT (P)

The picot stitch can be used to embellish the edges of any crocheted project.

Step 1: Chain 3.

Step 2: Insert the hook through the back bump of the third chain from the hook.

Step 3: Yarn over and pull the hook through the stitch and loop on the hook.

POPCORN STITCH (PC)

The popcorn stitch is a decorative stitch where multiple double crochets are made in the same space and the working loop of the last stitch is pulled through the first double crochet stitch made to form a small bump.

Step 1: Work 5 double crochet stitches in the same stitch and remove the hook from the loop.

Step 2: Insert the hook into the first double crochet of the 5 double crochet group.

Step 3: Insert the hook back through the loop that you originally took it out of.

Step 4: Pull it through the first double crochet stitch to complete the popcorn stitch.

INCREASE (INC)

To increase, make 2 stitches in the same space to increase the row count by 1. For instance, the illustration here shows two double crochets made into the same stitch, to increase by one.

DECREASE (DEC)

For all the patterns in this book, we will be using the “invisible decrease” technique of crocheting 2 stitches together to decrease the row count by 1.

Step 1: Insert your hook through the front loop only of the next 2 stitches, one after the other.

Step 2: Yarn over and pull your hook through the front loops of the 2 stitches (2 loops remain on the hook).

Step 3: Yarn over and pull your hook through the last 2 loops on the hook.

LEARN THE LINGO

In addition to listing the types of stitches in each round, every pattern will include other common instructions. Here are the ones you're most likely to see in this book, as well as some general terms that are good to know.

Round: The patterns in this book are all worked in continuous rounds, like a spiral. When you get to the last stitch in a round, you simply continue on to the first stitch of the next round; no complicated joining necessary. Using a stitch marker is a really good way to keep track of where each round ends.

Asterisks: Sometimes there will be a set of instructions that repeat within a round; these will be written after an asterisk followed by a semicolon, then the number of times they are repeated; for instance, “*Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times” means that you single crochet in the next stitch, then increase in the following stitch, and repeat that same pattern five more times. Sometimes there are instructions before and/or after the repeat. For example, the instruction might start with how many stitches to crochet before you begin the repeating pattern and end with how many stitches to crochet after you’ve finished the repeating pattern.

Brackets: At the end of each round, the total number of stitches in that round is noted in brackets. This way you can make sure you are staying on track with the pattern by counting the number of stitches after you finish a round. (It’s not necessary to count after each round, but if there are a lot of increases, decreases, or special stitches in some part of your pattern, it’s always comforting to know you have the right number before you move on to the next round.)

Working yarn vs. tail: Working yarn is what is connected to the skein and is the yarn you use to make your stitches. The tail is the extra little length of yarn at the beginning of your project, or where yarn was joined, or where you switched to a different color yarn.

Right side vs. wrong side: The right side of your project will be the outside of your amigurumi. It’s important to make sure you’re working with the right side out, especially if you are on a round that involves working in the front or back loops only. To make sure you have the right side facing out when working in the round, pay attention to how your hook is inserted into the next stitch. If your hook is going from the outside of the project to the inside, the right side is facing out. If your hook is going from the inside of the project to the outside, it means the wrong side is facing out and it would be best to flip it right side out before continuing.

Color Changes

Changing yarn colors is one of the quickest ways to drastically change the appearance of your amigurumi, whether you’re adding large color blocks, stripes, or even just a few spots here and there. It’s surprisingly simple to do, regardless of which stitch you’re using.

On the last stitch before the color change, work through the stitch until it’s almost complete and there are only 2 loops remaining on the hook. Hold the working yarn of the old color secure and grab your new color. Leave a short tail (a few inches long) of the new color and, with your hook, pull the new yarn through the remaining 2 loops on the hook. Then continue crocheting as normal using the new color. Once you have worked a few stitches in the new color, go back to the color change spot and tie a knot (on the wrong side/inside of the piece) with the tail of the new color and the working yarn still attached to the skein of the old color, then trim the excess. This knot will secure your work, and since it’s on the inside of the amigurumi, there’s no need to weave in ends.

Assembling Your Creature

This is the part of the process that really brings your creature to life. It can also be the most challenging, because you need to find the perfect placement for each piece and stitch everything securely. One of the wonderful things about amigurumi is that each piece is unique—two creatures made by the same crafter, with the same yarn and the same pattern, can end up being slightly different. The most important thing is that your amigurumi looks right to you, its creator. If you follow the suggestions in this book for the placement of limbs, snouts, and wings but things don’t feel quite right, feel free to adjust the placements until your amigurumi looks how you want it to look.

STUFFING, FASTENING OFF, AND CLOSING UP

Polyester fiberfill plays a large role in what your finished creature will look like. The more stuffing you use, the stiffer and plumper the creature will be. But be careful not to overstuff, or you will be able to see white stuffing peeking through between the stitches. If you need a particular limb to be more supple and capable of movement, like a tail, for example, use less stuffing in that piece.

For amigurumi, it’s best to stuff your pieces as you go, because it can be difficult to add stuffing when the piece is almost finished. To do this, tear off small clumps of stuffing and use your fingers to gently press it into place. (Putting too much stuffing in at once can lead to a lumpy amigurumi.) If you’re using safety eyes, you’ll need to attach them before you stuff and close off the head. The patterns in this book include instructions for where and when to attach the eyes. After completing the final round of each piece, you may want to use the handle side of your hook to poke in a little extra stuffing before closing that piece or attaching it to another piece. Squeeze and massage the piece into the desired shape.

Some pieces will need to be completely closed before they can be assembled to form your finished creature. You’ll see instructions in the pattern, but there are two basic techniques: cinching the final round closed, and pressing the piece flat and sewing the final round together.

To cinch the final round closed after you have fastened off the yarn, grab your tapestry needle and thread it with the tail from the end of the piece. Insert the needle into the front loop only of the first stitch of the last round and pull the tail all the way through, but not too tight. Repeat this step around the entire final round, weaving the tail through the front loops. When you’re back at the beginning of the round, pull the tail tight to cinch the final round closed. Now you can insert the needle into the center of the ring you just closed and pull it out somewhere along the side of the piece, a few inches away. Pull the tail to the inside of the amigurumi and trim any excess that comes out the other side.

To sew the final round together, press the piece so the top edge lies flat and the last round of stitches line up. Consider how the piece will be attached to the body and what sort of movement that piece will have. If it’s a leg, you’ll want to stitch it closed so that the foot is facing forward and the leg can move back and forth where it is attached.

Whipstitch

Use the tapestry needle and the tail to whipstitch the edge together. To do this, pass the needle through both edges that are being joined, then loop it over the top before going through the edges again, so that the needle is always going through in the same direction (see illustration). Typically, the tail of the yarn is also used to attach the piece to the body of the amigurumi, so once you’ve finished crocheting a limb, don’t trim off the tail until you’ve closed the limb and attached it.

LIMBS AND TAILS

Some amigurumi elements—like snouts, horns, and tails—will still be open when they are attached. It is difficult to stuff these parts fully before they are attached, because the stuffing can get pulled through the stitches as it’s being sewn. The best way to prevent this is to use just a very light amount of stuffing to begin with, just enough so the piece keeps its shape. Begin sewing the piece in place, and when there’s about an inch left open, insert more stuffing until the piece is the desired shape, then carefully finish sewing it on.

Limbs are attached with a simple whipstitch using a tapestry needle and the long yarn tail from each limb. Once you’ve positioned the limb, insert the needle into the body of the creature, then rotate the needle so the tip will come up through the edge of the limb, and pull the needle through. Repeat this process all the way around the section of the limb that needs to be attached. Try your best to insert the needle into the spaces between stitches rather than into the stitches themselves. This will result in a much more attractive seam.

For limbs that are crocheted closed (e.g., Davina the Dragon’s arms and legs), you’ll stitch around the curved end of the limb. If you’d like the limbs to be able to move, stitch just along the top edge. If you’d like limbs to stay in position a little more permanently, add some stitches down the sides of them. The farther down the limb you stitch, the better it will stay in position.

For limbs that are sewn closed (e.g., Zinnia the Garden Fairy’s legs), place the limb in position and use a whipstitch to attach it. These types of limbs are designed to move back and forth, so only stitch along the top edge, where the leg meets the body.

After you’ve attached a piece, the only thing that remains is securing the tail and weaving in the end: Take the tapestry needle and work the tail in between a few stitches along the seam where the piece was attached, then insert the needle into either the body of the amigurumi or the freshly attached limb and out the other side, pulling the tail to the inside of the work. Trim any excess tail, and you’re all done.

PLACEMENT

Figuring out the best placement for your amigurumi’s elements is all about finding symmetry and balance. If you’re using safety eyes, you will have inserted them into the head before closing your amigurumi, and they will provide a great starting point to work from.

It can be very helpful to mark out on the head and body where different limbs and features will be attached. You can use removable stitch markers, bobby pins, or even glass-head sewing pins to map out where you’ll be stitching the pieces together.

I like to begin with the face and head, as this is what will give the amigurumi the most personality. Imagine a line drawn down the very center of your amigurumi. The snout will be centered on that line and about halfway between the eyes and the bottom of the head. Ears and horns will almost always be the same distance away from that center line and parallel to each other. Arms and legs will follow a similar pattern, evenly spaced from that imaginary middle line and on the same level as one another. Last will come the tail, wings, and any other part that may appear on the back of your creature.

Placement is all about what looks and feels right to you as the creator, but I’ve found that starting from the top and working my way down, and starting from the front and working my way back, is the best method for keeping my amigurumi symmetrical and balanced. The patterns in this book each include more specific instructions to help you in assembling the pieces of your amigurumi.

FANGS AND FACES

In addition to all the crochet pieces that make up your amigurumi, you can add other features using yarn, some basic embroidery techniques, and felt cutouts. Noses, whiskers, mouths, eyebrows, and more can be added to take your amigurumi from cute to truly magical.

To create facial features using yarn, cut a medium-to-long strand and use a tapestry needle to embroider the desired shapes. A wide V shape makes a sweet smile, and straight lines can create expressive eyebrows. You can even make multiple passes over the same few stitches to make an adorable nose. Wherever you insert your needle, leave a short tail. Pass the needle in and out of the amigurumi to create your desired design, and with the final stitch, bring your needle out in the same space where you began. Tie the two tails together, then pull them to the inside of the amigurumi.

Making detail pieces with felt is a great alternative to embroidering them with yarn. You can cut out shapes to make all sorts of features. Felt can be attached with embroidery floss and an embroidery needle or with a hot glue gun and some hot glue. (If using hot glue, make sure your felt is where you want it, because once it’s applied, it is incredibly difficult to remove.)

MANES, FUR, AND FLOWING LOCKS

Having a good hair day is not just for humans anymore; some of the creatures in this book also want to look like they just stepped out of the salon/groomer. Yarn can be cut into long strips and knotted directly into your amigurumi. For animals like pegacorns, you can attach the yarn directly to the amigurumi. For more humanlike creatures, such as fairies and mermaids, it’s best to crochet a small hair cap in the same color yarn as the hair, sew the hair cap in place, then knot the individual hair pieces to the hair cap rather than directly to the creature’s head. Each relevant pattern will have instructions regarding making a hair cap and where to attach the yarn hair.

For the hair itself, you’ll need to cut a number of lengths of yarn, each slightly longer than you want the finished hairstyle to be. One way to do this quickly is to take a small piece of cardboard and wrap the yarn around it many times, then use scissors to cut the yarn in half along one of the cardboard edges.

To attach the yarn, we’ll use lark’s head knots: Grab one strand of yarn and your crochet hook. Insert the hook through one stitch of the amigurumi or hair cap, fold the yarn strand in half, and use the hook to grab the middle of that strand (where it's folded). Pull the middle of the folded yarn through the stitch and partway out the other side to create a small loop. Use the hook to grab the two tails of the yarn on the other side of the stitch and pull them all the way through the small loop on your hook. Remove the hook and pull the two tails until the loop is tight.

For the best results, make sure the hook is pointed toward the center or back of the amigurumi wherever you are attaching a piece of hair; this will keep the small knot to the inside so it won’t be seen. Repeat this process with as many strands of yarn as necessary to give your creature their perfect hairdo. For more humanlike creatures, you can add a strand of hair to each stitch in the hair cap for the fullest possible head of hair, or you can add a strand every other stitch for a less bulky hairstyle. When using a hair cap, make sure to add a strand of yarn to every stitch along the edge near the face for full coverage along the hairline. Once you’ve finished adding all the yarn strands you would like, trim and style the hair however you choose. You can part it down the middle, tie it up into a bun or pigtails, or leave it wild.

Gauging Giants & Borrowers: Sizing Your Amigurumi

One of the simplest things you can do to drastically alter the appearance of your magical creature is change its size. Whether you want to shrink your amigurumi down to pocket-size or expand it to something more huggable, making the change all comes down to the weight of the yarn and the size of the hook you use. Using thick yarn and a large hook will result in supersize squishable stuffies, whereas using a fine yarn with a small hook will create delightfully delicate dolls. Most yarn labels have a recommended hook size, and this is an excellent place to start. Amigurumi requires a particularly tight tension, which creates a dense fabric with very little space between stitches, because you will be filling your projects with stuffing—and nothing is more embarrassing to a stuffed animal than when their stuffing is showing due to loose stitches.

The trick to finding the right size hook is to make a tension gauge swatch. Start the pattern as normal, but after a few rounds stop to examine your work. If there are gaps between the stitches, try a hook one size smaller. Or if you find that the stitches are so tight you can barely squeeze your hook in, try a hook one size larger. This can feel a little tedious, especially if you’re excited to get started on your project, but making sure that you’re using the right tools for the project is the best way to create something you will be truly proud of.

Once you’ve selected your yarn and found the right hook, just follow the pattern—it’s that easy. Try using a size 6 super bulky weight yarn to make an enormous kraken, or a size 3 lightweight yarn to make a delicate fairy. Yarn comes in a wonderful variety of textures, sizes, and colors, all waiting for you to work your magic and turn them into something spectacular.

Care of Magical Creatures

Amigurumi are pretty low-maintenance creatures, but there are some things you can do to ensure they withstand the test of time. I recommend spot cleaning in most cases. A little bit of cool water and gentle detergent on a washcloth should be enough to remove most dirt. If you need to introduce a creature to a washing machine, it’s best to follow the care instructions on the yarn label. Generally, yarn instructions recommend a cold-water wash on a delicate cycle and a tumble dry with low to no heat. (It’s very important to make sure the stuffing gets completely dry to avoid any mold or bacteria growth.)

It’s also a good idea to occasionally examine all the places where pieces are attached to the amigurumi to make sure that nothing is coming loose. Yarn is quite strong, but it’s sensible to make sure everything is secure, especially anything small enough to be a choking hazard if it were to become detached. Double-check that safety eyes are still locked in place and won’t come out with a strong tug.

Practicing and Personalizing

When it comes to crochet, the two most important elements to master are the position in which you hold the hook and maintaining a consistent tension on the working yarn. The best way to achieve consistent tension is through lots of practice, so don’t be discouraged if at first your stitches are a bit inconsistent. Repetition of the basic stitches and techniques builds muscle memory, and before long your stitches will come out even every time.

Once you have all the basic skills that you’ll need to make any of the amigurumi patterns from this book, it’s up to you to make them your own. All the magical creatures in part 2 use some combination of the basic stitches and techniques. After completing a few characters from this book, you’ll be able to create entirely new creatures by mixing and matching different pieces. Try using different colors, different types of yarn, and unique finishing touches.

Are you ready to start creating a menagerie of magical creatures? Grab your hook and some yarn and let’s get going!

PART TWO

Creating Crochet Magic

Now that you have taken your first steps in understanding how to choose the right materials for a project and reviewed the stitches you’ll need, how to start and finish, and how to piece everything together, it’s time to start making!

The patterns here are designed to introduce you to a variety of techniques for making amigurumi. There is something unique to be learned from each of these creatures: the forest inhabitants, the ocean dwellers, and those who soar through the sky. Some will involve interesting construction techniques, whereas others are assembled in unusual ways. They are all created using a combination of a few basic crochet stitches, and several contain beginner-friendly decorative stitches to add a bit of texture or shape. Each pattern contains step-by-step instructions with a few helpful guideposts to keep you headed in the right direction, as well as detailed instructions on how to assemble your magical amigurumi.

The knowledge you gain from working through the patterns in this book will open the door to many amigurumi crochet patterns that can be found out in the world. All that remains is for you to start creating magical amigurumi creatures of your own.

DAVINA THE Dragon

Dragons may be the most well-known of the magical creatures. They come in all shapes, sizes, and colors, and they appear in legends and stories told in a number of countries all across the globe. In some traditions, dragons are known for collecting huge piles of gold and precious stones and guarding them fiercely. Davina would be more than happy to protect any treasures you may have lying around. All the pieces that make up this dazzling creature are made in continuous rounds. The head and body are worked as one piece, and all the limbs are made separately and sewn on. The nostrils are embroidered on with yarn.

Size: 8 inches tall x 7 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Light Violet

•Caron One Pound in Lilac

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1 in Light Violet

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 8 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 21: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 23–27: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 29–31: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 30 sts]

Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 32: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 35: Dec in each pair of sts around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Snout

Make 1 in Light Violet

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Rounds 4–7: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 18 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the body, and set aside.

Large Horns

Make 2 in Lilac

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 4 in magic ring. [4 sts]

Round 2: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st. [6 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [8 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 6: Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 3 sts. [10 sts]

Rounds 7–9: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Small Horns

Make 2 in Lilac

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 4 in magic ring. [4 sts]

Round 2: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st. [6 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [8 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the head, and set aside.

Belly

Make 1 in Lilac

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body, and set aside.

Arms

Make 2 in Light Violet

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 5 in magic ring. [5 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [10 sts]

Rounds 3–16: Sc in each st around. [14 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 17: Dec in each pair of st around. [5 sts]

Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing so they keep their shape but remain supple and pliable.

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.

Legs

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Lilac.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times, sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

On last st of Round 4, change to Light Violet.

Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 8: Dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [18 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve completed the foot. Add a little bit of stuffing and continue to stuff as you work the leg.

Rounds 10–17: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 12 sts]

Finish stuffing the leg.

Round 18: Dec in each pair of sts around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the leg and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the leg, then set aside.

Tail

Make 1 in Light Violet

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [8 sts]

Rounds 4–5: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 8 sts]

Round 6: Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 3 sts. [10 sts]

Rounds 7–9: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 10: Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 4 sts. [12 sts]

Rounds 11–14: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body, and set aside.

Wings

Make 2 in Light Violet

To make the wings, we start with 3 separate cones that will be crocheted together.

Cones 1 and 2

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Place a removable stitch marker in the very last sc you made in Round 3. When it comes time to join the three cones together, this is where you will make your first st.

Cone 3 and the Rest of the Wing

For cone 3, repeat the steps for cones 1 and 2 but do not fasten off the yarn.

Now that you have 3 separate cones, we need to join them together. Begin your round on cone 3 (the current cone).

Round 4: Sc in the next 4 sts . . .

Pick up one of the other cones and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the second cone . . .

Pick up the last cone and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the last cone . . .

This is the halfway point for this round. You should have 3 cones that are connected on the front. Now we need to make our way back to the beginning of the round.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts, sc in the next 5 sts on the middle cone, sc in the next 5 sts on the first cone.

You’re now back to the beginning of the round. The 3 cones with 10 sts have now become a single round of 30 sts. Continue working in the round as normal. [30 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 9: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 11: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 12: Dec in each pair of sts around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for attaching to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the wing, then insert your needle through the center of the last round and out near the tip of one of the outside cones; set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Stuff and attach the snout, lining it up so the top sits on the round below the eyes and the snout is centered on the face.

2.For the nostrils, take a medium strand of Lilac yarn and embroider two short horizontal lines between Rounds 3 and 4 of the snout. Each line should be about 2 sts long and evenly spaced from the center.

3.Stuff and attach the large horns to the top of the head so the inside edge of the horn is around Round 3 of the head. Angle the horns so the curve is pointing toward the back.

4.Stuff and attach the small horns directly to the outside of the large horns.

5.Attach the belly piece, centering it on the body.

6.Set your Dragon on a flat surface. Grab one of the legs, set it on the flat surface with the foot pointing up, and place it next to the body. With the leg positioned so the foot is out in front of the body, stitch the top edge of the leg to the side of the body. The top of the leg should be around 5 sts away from the belly. Repeat these steps on the other side with the second leg.

7.With the Dragon still sitting on the flat surface, grab one of the arms. Set the bottom of the arm on the flat surface in between the legs. Lean the arm against the body so the top of the arm sits to the outside of the belly piece; stitch the top edge where it connects to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side of the belly piece with the second arm.

8.With your Dragon still sitting on a flat surface, stuff the tail, set it on the flat surface, place it at the center back of the body, and attach it.

9.Attach the wings to the back of the body, about halfway between the top of the tail and the neck, 3 sts apart, and evenly spaced from the center. Stitch along the edge of the cone.

COSMO THE Caticorn

Caticorns are a fairly recent discovery in the magical world. It wasn’t until we spotted one curled up for a nap in a particularly warm patch of sunlight that we even knew they existed. Much like their house cat cousins, these fantastic felines make excellent companions. Once a Caticorn chooses a human, their friendship will last a lifetime. All the pieces that make up this phenomenal feline are crocheted in continuous rounds. The head and body are worked as one piece, and all the limbs are made separately and sewn on. The nose and whiskers are embroidered on with yarn.

Size: 8 inches tall x 7 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron Jumbo worsted (100% acrylic; 595 yards (544 m) / 340 g) in Baby Rainbow

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Yellow

•Caron One Pound in White

•Caron One Pound in Rose (just a small amount for the nose)

•Caron One Pound in Black (just a small amount for the whiskers)

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1 in Baby Rainbow

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 8 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 19: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Rounds 21–24: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 36 sts]

Round 25: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 26–30: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 42 sts]

Stuff the head fully and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 31: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 32: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 35: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Finish stuffing the body before working the last round.

Round 36: Dec in each pair of sts around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Horn

Make 1 in Yellow

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Rounds 2–3: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 6 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Rounds 5–8: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Ears

Make 2 in Baby Rainbow

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the ear and attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat and stitch it closed, then set aside.

Arms and Legs

Make 4 in Baby Rainbow

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Rounds 3–7: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail. Using the handle end of your hook, add a small amount of stuffing to the bottom half of the limb. Press the top of the limb flat and stitch it closed, leaving the remaining tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Tail

Make 1 in Baby Rainbow

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Rounds 3–12: Sc in each st around. [10 rounds @ 12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Wings

Make 2 in White

To make the wings, we start with 3 separate cones that will be crocheted together.

Cones 1 and 2

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Place a removable stitch marker in the very last sc you made in Round 3. When it comes time to join the three cones together, this is where you will make your first st.

Cone 3 and the Rest of the Wing

For cone 3, repeat the steps for cones 1 and 2 but do not fasten off the yarn.

Now that you have 3 separate cones, we need to join them together. Begin your round on cone 3 (the current cone).

Round 4: Sc in the next 4 sts . . .

Pick up one of the other cones and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the second cone . . .

Pick up the last cone and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the last cone . . .

This is the halfway point for this round. You should have 3 cones that are connected on the front. Now we need to make our way back to the beginning of the round.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts, sc in the next 5 sts on the middle cone, sc in the next 5 sts on the first cone.

You’re now back to the beginning of the round. The 3 cones with 10 sts have now become a single round of 30 sts. Continue working in the round as normal. [30 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 9: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 11: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 12: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for attaching to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the wing, insert your needle through the center of the last round and out near the tip of one of the outside cones, then set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Stuff and attach the horn. It should be placed in the center of the forehead, 3 rounds up from the tops of the eyes.

2.Attach the ears in a straight line across the top of the head. The inside corner of the base of the ear should be attached between Rounds 2 and 3 of the head.

3.Take a medium strand of Rose yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the nose. The top portion of the nose should be 3 stitches wide, centered between the eyes, and 1 round down from the middle of the eyes. To give the nose a T shape, make one vertical line down the center of the face, about 2 stitches (st) long, before making multiple horizontal passes at the top of that line.

4.Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the whiskers. The whiskers are made with 3 lines that start in the same space and fan out. Begin with the middle whisker and make a horizontal line 3 sts long that starts 1 round down from the bottom of the eye and 1 st over from the outside edge of the eye. The top whisker should be a diagonal line that starts in the same space as the end of the middle whisker closer to the nose and ends 1 round up from the other end of the middle whisker. The bottom whisker should be a diagonal line that starts in the same space as the first 2 whiskers and ends 1 round down from the other end of the middle whisker.

5.Attach the arms at the shoulder, the round below the narrowest point of the neck. They should be attached on a slight diagonal, with the inside corner of the arm higher than the outside so that the arms are angled slightly forward.

6.To attach the legs, place the head and body upright on a flat surface. The leg should have stuffing only in the front half, so it should be shaped like a wedge. Without lifting the body, slide the leg into place, slightly to the inside of the arms and angled outward, and sitting on the flat surface. Hold the leg in place and lift the Caticorn so you can attach it by sewing the bottom edge of the leg to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with second leg.

7.With your Caticorn still sitting on a flat surface, stuff the tail, set it on the flat surface, place it at the center back of the body, and attach it.

8.Attach the wings to the back of the body, about halfway between the top of the tail and the neck, 3 sts apart and evenly spaced from the center. Stitch along the edge of the cone.

LEONARD THE Dandy-Lion

Dandy-Lions are found in meadows and fields. These curious creatures are very social and tend to congregate in large groups. If you spot a Dandy-Lion in your yard, it would be best to safely relocate it, or before you know it, your lawn will be overrun. All the pieces that make up this gregarious creature are crocheted in continuous rounds. The head and body are worked as one piece, and all the limbs are made separately and sewn on. The mane is created by knotting many strands of yarn directly to the head. The nose and whiskers are embroidered on with yarn.

Size: 8 inches tall x 6 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Yellow

•Caron One Pound in Grass Green

•Caron One Pound in Rose (just a small amount for the nose)

•Caron One Pound in Black (just a small amount for whiskers)

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

•Lark’s head knot

Head and Body

Make 1

Make a magic ring in Yellow.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 8 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

On the last st of Round 18, change to Grass Green.

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 19: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Rounds 21–24: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 36 sts]

Round 25: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 26–30: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 42 sts]

Stuff the head fully and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 31: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 32: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 35: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Finish stuffing the body before working the last round.

Round 36: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Ears

Make 2 in Yellow

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for closing the ear and attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat and stitch it closed, then set aside.

Arms and Legs

Make 4 in Grass Green

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Rounds 3–7: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail. Using the handle end of your hook, add a small amount of stuffing to the bottom half of the limb. Press the top of the limb flat and stitch it closed, leaving the tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Tail

Make 1 in Grass Green

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 6: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Rounds 7–14: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body, then set aside. The tail is not stuffed.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Attach the ears in a straight line across the top of the head. The inside corner of the base of the ear should be attached between Rounds 2 and 3 of the head.

2.Take a medium strand of Rose yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the nose. The top portion of the nose should be 3 sts wide, centered between the eyes, and 1 round down from the middle of the eyes. To give the nose a T shape, make one vertical line down the center of the face, about 2 stitches long, before making multiple horizontal passes at the top of that line.

3.Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the whiskers. The whiskers are made with 3 lines that start in the same space and fan out. Begin with the middle whisker and make a horizontal line 3 sts long that starts 1 round down from the bottom of the eye and 1 st over from the outside edge of the eye. The top whisker should be a diagonal line that starts in the same space as the end of the middle whisker closer to the nose and ends 1 round up from the other end of the middle whisker. The bottom whisker should be a diagonal line that starts in the same space as the first 2 whiskers and ends 1 round down from the other end of the middle whisker.

4.Attach the arms at the shoulder, the round below the narrowest point of the neck. They should be attached on a slight diagonal, with the inside corner of the arm higher than the outside so that the arms are angled slightly forward.

5.To attach the legs, place the head and body upright on a flat surface. The leg should only have stuffing in the front half, so it should be shaped like a wedge. Without lifting the body, slide the leg into place, slightly to the inside of the arms and angled outward, and sitting on the flat surface. Hold the leg in place and lift the Dandy-Lion so you can attach it by sewing the bottom edge of the leg to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with second leg.

6.With your Dandy-Lion still sitting on a flat surface, set the tail on the flat surface, place it at the center back of the body, and attach it.

7.For the mane, cut a large number of strands of Yellow yarn around 5 inches long. To attach them to the head we’ll be using a lark’s head knot: Fold the yarn in half and use your crochet hook to pull the halfway point of the yarn strand through a stitch on the head to make a small loop. Pull the two tail ends of that yarn strand through the small loop, and pull them tight to knot the strand in place. Attach strands of yarn to every stitch on the back and sides of the head, leaving a large circle for the face, which should span from about 8 rounds above the eyes to 2 rounds below the nose and from 1 st to the outside of the whiskers on either side. If you’d like a less fluffy Dandy-Lion, feel free to attach strands of yarn to only every other stitch on the head. Once you’ve finished attaching all the strands, use your scissors to trim the mane to the desired length, which was around 1 inch long for my Dandy-Lion.

PIPPIN THE Jackalope

One of the cutest North American cryptids (an animal whose existence has never been proven), the Jackalope has the body of a jackrabbit and the antlers of an antelope. Many people think Jackalopes are just a hoax that turned into a tall tale, but I choose to believe that there are some horned bunnies hopping around the forest. Either way, Pippin will make an adorable addition to any household. All the pieces for this mysterious critter are made in continuous rounds. The head and body are worked as one piece, and all the limbs are made separately and sewn on. The nose is embroidered on with yarn.

Size: 9½ inches tall x 6 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Taupe

•Caron One Pound in Off White

•Caron One Pound in Rose (small amount for embroidering nose)

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1 in Taupe

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 8 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 21: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 23–27: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 29–31: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 30 sts]

Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 32: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 35: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Snout

Make 1 in Off White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Ears

Make 2 in Taupe

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [10 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [14 sts]

Round 9: Sc in each st around. [14 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next 6 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [16 sts]

Round 11: Sc in each st around. [16 sts]

Round 12: *Sc in the next 7 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [18 sts]

Round 13: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 14: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for sewing the ear closed and attaching it to the head. Press the ear flat so the bottom edge lines up and use a tapestry needle and the tail to stitch it closed. Fold the closed bottom edge of the ear in half and stitch the sides together to create a curve in the ear, then set aside.

Antlers

Make 2 in Off White

Long Piece

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Rounds 3–12: Sc in each st around. [10 rounds @ 8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Short Piece

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Rounds 3–5: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the long piece of the antler, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Off White.

Round 1: Sc 5 in magic ring. [5 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [10 sts]

Rounds 3–5: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 10 sts]

On the last st of Round 5, change to Taupe.

Rounds 6–16: Sc in each st around. [11 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 17: Dec in each pair of st around. [5 sts]

Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing that they can keep their shape while remaining supple and pliable.

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.

Legs

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Off White.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 8: Dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [18 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

On last st of Round 9, change to Taupe.

You’ve completed the foot. Add a little bit of stuffing and continue to stuff as you work the leg.

Rounds 10–17: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds of 12 sts]

Finish stuffing the leg.

Round 18: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the leg and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the leg, then set aside.

Tail

Make 1 in Off White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Rounds 3–4: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 5: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body. Use the handle side of your hook to poke a little bit of stuffing into the Jackalope tail, then use a tapestry needle to weave the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the yarn tail tight to close the tail, then set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Attach the snout (no need to stuff), lining it up so the top edge sits on the round below the eyes and the snout is centered on the face.

2.Take a medium strand of Rose yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the nose. The top portion of the nose should be 2 sts wide between Rounds 2 and 3 of the snout. To give the nose a T shape, make one vertical line down the center of the nose, about 3 sts long, before making multiple horizontal passes at the top of that line.

3.Attach the ears about 4 rounds from the top of the head, with the inside curve of the ear facing forward.

4.Stuff and attach the long pieces of the antlers, lining them up so the bottom edge is 3 rounds above the tops of the eyes.

5.Stuff and attach the short pieces of the antlers, lining them up about halfway up on the inside of the long pieces of the antlers.

6.Set your Jackalope on a flat surface. Grab one of the legs, set it on the flat surface with the foot pointing up, and place it next to the body. With the leg positioned so the foot is out in front of the body, stitch the top edge of the leg to the side of the body. The top of the leg should be around 7 sts away from the center of the belly. Repeat these steps on the other side with the second leg.

7.With the Jackalope still sitting on the flat surface, grab one of the arms. Set the bottom of the arm on the flat surface in between the legs. Lean the arm against the body so the top of the arm sits between where the leg is attached and the head; stitch the top edge where it connects to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with the second arm.

8.With your Jackalope still sitting on a flat surface, set the tail on the flat surface, place it at the center back of the body, and attach it.

TOSHIKO THE Kitsune

Kitsune are ancient fox spirits from Japan. The more tails a Kitsune has, the older, wiser, and more powerful they are. Although they have been portrayed as tricksters, they are also spoken of as faithful guardians and friends. Toshiko would make an excellent companion for someone in your life who is both a good friend and a little bit mischievous. All the pieces for this vulpine vixen are worked in continuous rounds. The head and body are worked as one piece, and the limbs and tails are made separately and sewn on. The nose is embroidered on with yarn.

Size: 7 inches tall x 9 inches wide

Materials:

•Red Heart with Love worsted (100% acrylic; 370 yards (338 m) / 198 g) in Tangerine

•Red Heart Super Saver worsted (100% acrylic; 364 yards (333 m) / 198 g) in Soft White

•Red Heart Super Saver in Café Latte

•Red Heart Super Saver in Black (small amount for embroidering nose)

•US G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1 in Tangerine

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 9 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 21: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 23–27: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 29–31: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 30 sts]

Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 32: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 35: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Snout

Make 1 in Soft White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 6–7: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 18 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Ears

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Café Latte.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

On last stitch of Round 3, change to Tangerine.

Round 4: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [10 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the ear and attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat and stitch it closed, then set aside.

Belly

Make 1 in Soft White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times, sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Café Latte.

Round 1: Sc 5 in magic ring. [5 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [10 sts]

Rounds 3–8: Sc in each st around. [6 rounds @ 10 sts]

On the last st of Round 8, change to Tangerine.

Rounds 9–16: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 17: Dec in each pair of st around. [5 sts]

Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing that they can keep their shape while remaining supple and pliable.

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.

Legs

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Café Latte.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 8: Dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [18 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve completed the foot. Add a little bit of stuffing and continue to stuff as you work the leg.

Rounds 10–11: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 12 sts]

On last st of Round 11, change to Tangerine.

Rounds 12–17: Sc in each st around. [6 rounds of 12 sts]

Finish stuffing the leg.

Round 18: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the leg and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the leg, then set aside.

Tails

Make 9

Make a magic ring in Soft White.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 3 more times. [12 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

On the last st of Round 5, change to Tangerine.

Round 6: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 7–9: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next 7 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [16 sts]

Rounds 11–12: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 16 sts]

Begin stuffing the tail and continue to stuff as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 13: *Sc in the next 6 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [14 sts]

Rounds 14–15: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 14 sts]

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Rounds 17–18: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 12 sts]

Finish stuffing the tail.

Round 19: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the Kitsune tail and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the yarn tail through the front loops of the last round; pull the yarn tail tight to close the tail, then set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Stuff and attach the snout, lining it up so the top edge sits on the round below the eyes and the snout is centered on the face.

2.Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use the tapestry needle to make multiple passes about 1 st long on the tip of the snout, creating a little black nose.

3.Attach the ears about 3 rounds from the top of the head, stitching along the bottom of the ear with the brown tip pointing up.

4.Attach the belly piece centered on the body.

5.Set your Kitsune on a flat surface. Grab one of the legs, set it on the flat surface with the foot pointing up, and place it next to the body. With the leg positioned so the foot is out in front of the body, stitch the top edge of the leg to the side of the body. The top of the leg should be around 5 sts away from the belly. Repeat these steps on the other side with the second leg.

6.With the Kitsune still sitting on the flat surface, grab one of the arms. Set the bottom of the arm on the flat surface in between the legs. Lean the arm against the body so the top of the arm sits to the outside of the belly piece; stitch the top edge where it connects to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side of the belly piece with the second arm.

7.With your Kitsune still sitting on a flat surface, set tail 1 on the flat surface, place it at the center back of the body, and attach it. Secure the base of the tail with several stitches.

8.For tails 2 and 3, place them on either side of tail 1 and attach the bases as close to the base of tail 1 as you can.

9.Repeat the process with tails 4 and 5 on the outside of tails 2 and 3. The back of your Kitsune should now have a row of 5 tails attached close together at the base so the ends fan out.

10.Attach tails 6 to 9 to the round of the body above the first row of tails, so they sit in the spaces between the first row of tails.

ZINNIA THE Garden Fairy

Fairies are the most industrious of the magical creatures; they each have their own important job to perform to keep the natural world running smoothly. Zinnia is a garden fairy, and it is her job to make sure everything grows according to plan. She would make a great companion for someone in your life with a green thumb. Her curls and the flower bands in her hair are worked flat, and everything else is worked in continuous rounds. Her head and body are worked as one piece, and everything else is made separately and sewn on.

Size: 10½ inches tall x 6 inches wide

Materials:

•Red Heart Super Saver worsted (100% acrylic; 364 yards (333 m) / 198 g) in Café Latte

•Red Heart with Love worsted (100% acrylic; 370 yards (338 m) / 198 g) in Lettuce

•Red Heart Super Saver in Light Pink

•Red Heart Super Saver in Shocking Pink

•Red Heart Super Saver in Soft White

•Red Heart Super Saver in Black (small amount for mouth)

•US G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Chain (ch)

•Single crochet (sc)

•Half double crochet (hdc)

•Double crochet (dc)

•Slip stitch (sl st)

•Back loop only (BLO)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1

Make a magic ring in Café Latte.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 13 and 14, 10 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 21: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 23: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

On the last st of Round 23, change to Lettuce.

Rounds 24–27: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 29: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

Round 30: Sc in the BLO of each st around. [30 sts]

The front loops from Round 30 are where we will attach the petals of Zinnia’s skirt.

Round 31: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 32: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 35: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2 in Café Latte

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Rounds 3–16: Sc in each st around. [14 rounds @ 8 sts]

Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing that they can keep their shape while remaining supple and pliable.

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.

Legs

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Lettuce.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Rounds 4–6: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 18 sts]

On the last st of Round 6, change to Café Latte.

Round 7: Dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 6 sts. [12 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

You’ve completed the foot. Add a little bit of stuffing and continue to stuff as you work the leg.

Rounds 9–18: Sc in each st around. [10 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the leg and attaching it to the body. With the foot facing forward, press the top of the leg flat and stitch it closed. The seam at the top of the leg should be perpendicular to the foot so when it is attached to the body the leg can move backward and forward.

Skirt Petals

Make 3 in Light Pink

Make 3 in Shocking Pink

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Round 3: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 4: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 6: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 8–10: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 11: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 12: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 13: *Sc in the next 7 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [16 sts]

Round 14: Sc in each st around. [16 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the petal and attaching it to the body. Press the petal flat and stitch it closed, then set aside.

Hair Cap

Make 1 in Shocking Pink

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for attaching the hair cap to the head, then set aside.

Hair Buns

Make 2 in Shocking Pink

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 5–6: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching the hair bun to the head.

Curls

Make 2 in Shocking Pink

For the curl, we will start with a short chain and then make an hdc inc in each st across the chain to make it curl.

Ch 13.

Row 1: 2 hdc in the second ch from the hook, 2 hdc in each st across the chain. [24 sts]

You may need to guide the curl a little so it spirals in the correct direction. Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Ears

Make 2 in Café Latte

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 4 in magic ring. [4 sts]

Round 2: Sc in each st around. [4 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the ear and attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat and stitch it closed, then set aside.

Flower Hairbands

Make 2 in Light Pink

Ch 17.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in each st down the chain, ch 1 and turn. [16 sts]

Row 2: *3 dc in the next st, sl st in the next st; rep from * 7 more times. [32 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Long Wings

Make 2 in Soft White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [10 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Rounds 7–9: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 11: Sc in each st around. [10 sts]

Round 12: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 13: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 14: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the wing and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the wing, then set aside.

Short Wings

Make 2 in Soft White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 9: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the wing and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the wing, then set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Begin with the legs: Stitch the tops of the legs to the bottom of the fairy’s body so that the feet are facing forward. The inside corner of the top of each leg should be right at the center of the bottom of the fairy’s body.

2.The Light Pink skirt petals will be attached to the front loops from Round 30 of the body. (You’ll notice a horizontal line around the waist of the body was created by working Round 30 in the BLO.) Attach the first petal center front. The remaining petals will be attached evenly spaced around the body, with 3 sts in between each petal.

3.The Shocking Pink petals will be attached on the round directly above where the Light Pink Petals were attached. The Shocking Pink petals should be staggered with the row of petals below, so that the middle of each petal is over the space between the Light Pink petals.

4.Attach the arms to the sides of the body, 1 round down from the neck (the thinnest round on the body). Angle the arms slightly forward and stitch around the top edge.

5.Take the hair cap and, with the tail positioned at center back, pull the cap down on the head. It should be angled slightly back so the hair cap sits around 3 rounds above the tops of the eyes in the front and about 5 rounds up from the neck in the back. Use the long tail to stitch the hair cap in place.

6.Attach the ears so the bottom of each ear lines up with the bottom of the eyes. Place the ears 2 sts to the outside of each eye and rotate them so the tips of the ears are pointed toward the back of the body. Stitch along the bottom edge.

7.Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the mouth by making 2 diagonal lines that meet in the center to form a wide V for the smile. Find the center point between the eyes and count 4 rounds down to locate where the center of the smile should be. The corners of the mouth should be 2 sts away from the center point and 1 round up.

8.Attach the hair curls to the bottom of the hair cap, on either side of the face, in between the eyes and the ears.

9.Stuff the hair buns and attach them to the top of the head. The inside edge of each bun should be about 4 rounds from the center of the hair cap.

10.Place the flower hairbands around the base of the hair buns. The hairbands will have a natural curve that will fit to the shape of the bun. Stitch the short edges at the ends of the hairband together to form a ring and weave in the ends.

11.Attach the long wings 1 round down from the neck and 1 st away from the center of the fairy’s back.

12.Attach the short wings directly below the long wings.

GUS THE Enchanted Mushroom

Most people traveling through a dark forest don’t stray too far from the path, but if you did, you might find yourself face-to-face with one of these delightful creatures. Despite their cheery, sunny nature, Enchanted Mushrooms prefer a cold, wet, dark climate. They are often seen in the company of fairies, because their large caps make an excellent table for a picnic. Gus is welcome at most parties because he’s a really fun guy. All the pieces that make up Gus are crocheted in continuous rounds. The body is worked as one piece. A wide brim that will act as a base for the mushroom cap to rest on is worked directly into the body. The mushroom cap, spots, and limbs are made separately and sewn on.

Size: 8½ inches tall x 5½ inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Cream

•Caron One Pound in Raspberry Wine

•Caron One Pound in White

•Caron One Pound in Black (just a small amount for mouth)

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Back loop only (BLO)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Body

Make 1 in Cream

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Rounds 7–8: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 36 sts]

Round 9: Sc in the BLO of each st around. [36 sts]

The front loops from Round 9 will be used to create a base for the mushroom cap.

Rounds 10–16: Sc in each st around. [7 rounds @ 36 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 12 and 13, 8 sts apart.

Round 17: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 18–25: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Begin stuffing the body; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 26: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 27: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 29: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 30: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Finish stuffing the body before working the last round.

Round 31: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Base of the Mushroom Cap

Join Cream yarn to the body by locating the first front loop from Round 9 of the body, then insert your hook and pull a loop of yarn through, leaving a short tail. Ch 1 to secure the st in place.

Round 1: Starting in the same space as where you joined the yarn, *sc in the next 5 front loops, inc in the next front loop; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 6 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [48 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 7 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [54 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 8 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [60 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 9 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [66 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail.

Mushroom Cap

Make 1 in Raspberry Wine

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [36 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next 6 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [48 sts]

Round 10: Sc in each st around. [48 sts]

Round 11: *Sc in the next 7 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [54 sts]

Round 12: *Sc in the next 8 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [60 sts]

Round 13: Sc in each st around. [60 sts]

Round 14: *Sc in the next 9 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [66 sts]

Round 15: *Sc in the next 10 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [72 sts]

Round 16: Sc in each st around. [72 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 10 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [66 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for attaching to the base of the mushroom cap on the body. Using a tapestry needle, begin stitching the mushroom cap to the Cream base on the body, but make sure to stitch only to the back loop (inside loop) of the red mushroom cap, leaving the front loop (outside loop) free. Once you’ve stitched about three-quarters of the way around, stuff the mushroom cap and continue stuffing as you finish stitching around.

Finishing the Mushroom Cap

Join Raspberry Wine yarn to one of the front loops from where you just attached the mushroom cap to the mushroom cap base by inserting your hook and pulling a loop of yarn through, leaving a short tail. Ch 1 to secure the st in place.

Round 1: Sc in each front loop around (starting in the same space as where you joined the yarn). [66 sts]

Round 2: Sc in each st around. [66 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail, and weave in the ends.

Arms and Legs

Make 4 in Cream

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Rounds 3–7: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches. Using the handle end of your hook, add a small amount of stuffing to the bottom half of the limb. Press the top of the limb flat and stitch it closed, leaving the remaining tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Large Spots

Make 3 in White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the mushroom cap.

Small Spots

Make 5 in White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the mushroom cap.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Attach the arms at the shoulder, the round below the narrowest point of the neck. They should be attached on a slight diagonal, with the inside corner of the arm higher than the outside so that the arms are angled slightly forward.

2.To attach the legs, place the head and body upright on a flat surface. Without lifting the body, slide the leg into place, slightly to the inside of the arms and angled outward, and sitting on the flat surface. Hold the leg in place and lift the mushroom so you can attach it by sewing the bottom edge of the leg to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with second leg.

3.Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the mouth by making 2 diagonal lines that meet in the center to form a wide V for the smile. Find the center point between the eyes and count 3 rounds down to locate where the center of the smile should be. The corners of the mouth should be 2 sts away from the center point and 1 round up.

4.Attach the large and small spots to the top of the mushroom cap. This is an excellent opportunity to customize your amigurumi to your taste. No two mushrooms are alike, so arrange the spots in a way that looks right to you.

BASIL THE Flying Pig

Have you ever wanted something but been told that it will only happen “when pigs fly”? Well, I’ve got great news for you—that time is now! This winged piggy is a sign of excellent luck heading your way. Next time something feels impossible, just grab your hook and whip up one of these soaring swine. All of the pieces for this good luck charm are crocheted in continuous rounds, except for the tail, which is worked flat. The head and body are worked as one piece, all the limbs are made separately and sewn on, and the nostrils are embroidered on with yarn.

Size: 7 inches tall x 7 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Light Pink

•Caron One Pound in Rose

•Caron One Pound in White

•Caron One Pound in Black (just a small amount for nostrils)

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Half double crochet (hdc)

•Back loop only (BLO)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1 in Light Pink

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 8 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 19: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Rounds 21–24: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 36 sts]

Round 25: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 26–30: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 42 sts]

Stuff the head fully and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 31: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 32: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 35: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Finish stuffing the body before working the last round.

Round 36: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Ears

Make 2 in Light Pink

Make a magic ring

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for closing the ear and attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat and stitch the last round closed, then set aside.

Snout

Make 1 in Light Pink

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the BLO of each st around. [12 sts]

Round 4: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Arms and Legs

Make 4

Make a magic ring in Rose.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the BLO of each st around. [12 sts]

On the last st of Round 3, change to Light Pink.

Rounds 4–7: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail. Using the handle end of your hook, add a small amount of stuffing to the bottom half of the limb. Press the top of the limb flat and stitch it closed, leaving the remaining tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Tail

Make 1 in Light Pink

To make a curly tail, we will make a short chain and then make an hdc inc in each st across the chain to make it curl.

Ch 10.

Round 1: Hdc 2 in the second ch from the hook, hdc 2 in each st across the chain. [18 sts]

You may need to guide the curl a little so it spirals in the correct direction. Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Wings

Make 2 in White

To make the wings, we start with 3 separate cones that will be crocheted together.

Cones 1 and 2

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Place a removable stitch marker in the very last sc you made in Round 3. When it comes time to join the three cones together, this is where you will make your first st.

Cone 3 and the Rest of the Wing

For cone 3, repeat the steps for cones 1 and 2 but do not fasten off the yarn.

Now that you have 3 separate cones, we need to join them together. Begin your round on cone 3 (the current cone).

Round 4: Sc in the next 4 sts . . .

Pick up one of the other cones and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the second cone . . .

Pick up the last cone and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the last cone . . .

This is the halfway point for this round. You should have 3 cones that are connected on the front. Now we need to make our way back to the beginning of the round.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts, sc in the next 5 sts on the middle cone, sc in the next 5 sts on the first cone.

You’re now back to the beginning of the round. The 3 cones with 10 sts have now become a single round of 30 sts. Continue working in the round as normal. [30 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 9: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 11: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 12: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for attaching to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the wing, insert your needle through the center of the last round and out near the tip of one of the outside cones, then set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Lay the ears flat on the top of the head with the points facing forward, so the inside corners of the back edge sit around Round 3 of the head, and sew along the back edge.

2.Stuff the snout and attach it centered between the eyes so the top edge of the nose is in line with the center of the eyes.

3.Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the snout by making a vertical line about 2 sts tall on either side of the center of the snout.

4.Attach the arms at the shoulder, the round below the narrowest point of the neck. They should be attached on a slight diagonal, with the inside corner of the arm higher than the outside so that the arms are angled slightly forward.

5.To attach the legs, place the head and body upright on a flat surface. Without lifting the body, slide the leg into place, slightly to the inside of the arms, angled outward, and sitting on the flat surface. Hold the leg in place and lift the Flying Pig so you can attach it by sewing the bottom edge of the leg to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with second leg.

6.With your Flying Pig still sitting on a flat surface, set the tail on the flat surface, place it at the center back of the body, and attach it by sewing just the bottom edge in place. Use your fingers to adjust the direction of the curl if necessary.

7.Attach the wings to the back of the body, about halfway between the top of the tail and the neck, 3 sts apart, and evenly spaced from the center. Stitch along the edge of the cone.

QUENTIN THE Gnome

Diminutive and mysterious, gnomes are widely known for their penchant for hanging out in gardens. These jolly earth spirits have the ability to move under the earth as quickly as we move on top of it. Instantly recognizable by their pointy hats and even pointier beards, gnomes are a welcome guest in most homes. Quentin would make an exceptional gift, as he helps keep a home grounded while giving off an air of whimsy. All the pieces for these tiny magical men are crocheted in continuous rounds, except for the eyebrows, which are worked flat. The head and body are worked as one piece, and the cap, facial features, and all the limbs are made separately and sewn on.

Size: 8 inches tall x 5 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Cream

•Caron One Pound in Royalty

•Caron One Pound in Dark Brown

•Caron One Pound in White

•Caron One Pound in Raspberry Wine

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Half double crochet (hdc)

•Back loop only (BLO)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1

Make a magic ring in Cream.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 8 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

On the last st of Round 18, change to Royalty.

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 19: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Rounds 21–24: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 36 sts]

Round 25: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Round 26: Sc in each st around. [42 sts]

On the last st of Round 26, change to Dark Brown.

Round 27: Sc in each st around. [42 sts]

On the last st of Round 27, change to Royalty.

Round 28: Sc in each st around. [42 sts]

Round 29: Sc in the BLO of each st around. [42 sts]

The front loops from Round 29 will be used to continue the tunic after the body is completed.

Round 30: Sc in each st around. [42 sts]

Stuff the head fully and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 31: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 32: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 35: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Finish stuffing the body before working the last round.

Round 36: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Finishing the Tunic

Join Royalty yarn by locating the first front loop from Round 29 of the body, insert your hook through the top of the loop, pointed toward the bottom of the body, and pull a loop of yarn through leaving a short tail. Ch 1 to secure the st in place.

Round 1: Sc in each front loop around (starting in the same space as where you joined the yarn). [42 sts]

Rounds 2–4: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 42 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail, and weave in the ends.

Nose

Make 1 in Cream

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 4: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the body. Use the handle side of your hook to poke a little bit of stuffing into the nose, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the nose, then set aside.

Ears

Make 2 in Cream

Make a magic ring

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Rounds 2–3: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the ear and attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat and stitch it closed, then set aside.

Eyebrows

Make 2 in White

Ch 5.

Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, hdc in each st across the chain. [4 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the face, then set aside.

Mustache

Make 2 in White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the face, then set aside.

Beard

Make 1 in White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 6–8: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 10–12: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 13: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 14–16: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 30 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for stitching the beard closed and attaching to face. Press the beard flat and stitch the last round closed, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Cream.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Rounds 3–4: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 12 sts]

On last st of Round 4, change to Royalty.

Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail. Using the handle end of your hook, add a small amount of stuffing to the bottom half of the arm. Press the top of the arm flat and stitch it closed, leaving the remaining tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Legs

Make 2 in Dark Brown

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Rounds 3–7: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail. Using the handle end of your hook, add a small amount of stuffing to the bottom half of the leg. Press the top of the leg flat and stitch it closed, leaving the tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Cap

Make 1 in Raspberry Wine

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 9: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 11: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

Round 12: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 13: Sc in each st around. [36 sts]

Round 14: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Round 15: Sc in each st around. [42 sts]

Round 16: *Sc in the next 6 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [48 sts]

Rounds 17–19: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 48 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Attach the nose centered between the eyes with the top of the nose 1 round down from the bottom of the eyes.

2.Attach the eyebrows centered directly above each eye so that the bottom edge of the eyebrow is just barely above the top of the eye.

3.Attach the ears to the sides of the face. They should be about 3 sts away from the eyes, and the top of the ear should line up with the top of the eye.

4.Attach the arms at the shoulder, the round below the narrowest point of the neck. They should be attached on a slight diagonal, with the inside corner of the arm higher than the outside so that the arms are angled slightly forward.

5.To attach the legs, place the head and body upright on a flat surface. Without lifting the body, slide the leg into place, slightly to the inside of the arms and angled outward, and sitting on the flat surface. Hold the leg in place and lift the Gnome so you can attach it by sewing the bottom edge of the leg to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with second leg.

6.Attach the top of the beard (the edge that you stitched closed) centered on the face, 2 rounds down from the bottom of the nose. You will need to stitch only along the top edge of the beard.

7.Attach the mustache ovals above the beard but below the nose. You will only need to stitch along the top edge of each mustache oval, and they will overlap with the top of the beard.

8.Stuff and attach the cap. It should fit over the top of the head; the brim in the front should be 1 round up from the eyebrows, and the brim in back should be 1 round up from the neck.

ARGOS THE Cyclops

Tales of one-eyed giants have been around for centuries. Sometimes they’re portrayed as monsters accused of eating people; other times they are seen as talented blacksmiths. The only thing we know for certain about Cyclopes is that they get 50 percent off at the eye doctor.

If you need someone to keep an eye out for you, Argos is your Cyclops—just be sure to keep him in a safe spot with few obstacles to maneuver around, as his depth perception isn’t great. Argos’s head, body, limbs, ears, and eye are all made in continuous rounds and sewn together. His eyelid is worked flat and sewn on, and his hair is knotted directly onto his head.

Size: 11 inches tall x 7 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Sunflower

•Caron One Pound in Dark Brown

•Caron One Pound in White (small amount for eye)

•Caron One Pound in Black (small amount for mouth)

•Caron One Pound in Raspberry Wine (small amount for hair)

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eye (just one!)

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Chain (ch)

•Single crochet (sc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

•Lark’s head knot

Head and Body

Make 1

Make a magic ring in Sunflower.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 21: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 23–27: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 29: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

On the last st of Round 29, change to Dark Brown.

Rounds 30–31: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 30 sts]

Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 32: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 35: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Eyeball

Make 1 in White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the head. Insert a 14 mm plastic safety eye into the center of the magic ring, then set aside.

Eyelid

Make 1 in Sunflower

Ch 7.

Row 1: Inc in the second ch from the hook, inc in each st across the chain, ch 1 and turn. [12 sts]

Row 2: Sc in each st across. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Ears

Make 2 in Sunflower

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Rounds 3–4: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the ear and attaching it to the body. Press the ear flat and stitch the last round closed, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2 in Sunflower

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 4–5: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Rounds 8–19: Sc in each st around. [12 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 20: Dec in each pair of st around. [5 sts]

Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing that they can keep their shape while remaining supple and pliable.

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.

Legs

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Sunflower.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 8: Dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [18 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve completed the foot. Add a little bit of stuffing and continue to stuff as you work the leg.

Rounds 10–17: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 12 sts]

On the last st of Round 17, change to Dark Brown.

Rounds 18–19: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 3 more times. [8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the leg and attaching it to the body. With the foot facing forward, press the top of the leg flat and stitch it closed. The seam at the top of the leg should be perpendicular to the foot, so when it is attached to the body the leg can move backward and forward.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Begin with the legs: Stitch the tops of the legs to the bottom of the Cyclops’s body so that the feet are facing forward. The inside corner of the top of each leg should be right at the center of the bottom of the Cyclops’s body.

2.Attach the arms on either side of the body, straight out to the sides, 1 round down from the neck (the thinnest round on the body).

3.Add a little stuffing to the eyeball and attach it to the center of the face; the top of the eyeball should sit on Round 9 of the head.

4.Attach the base of the eyelid (Round 1 of the eyelid, the shorter edge) to the head so that it wraps around the top of the eyeball.

5.Attach the ears in a straight vertical line on either side of the head so that the top of the ear lines up with the top of the eye.

6.Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the mouth by making 2 diagonal lines that meet in the center to form a wide V. The center point of the mouth should be 4 rounds down from the bottom of the eyeball. To give your Cyclops a big smile, the corners of the mouth should be 3 sts away from the center point and 2 rounds up.

7.For Argos’s hair, cut 12 strands of Raspberry Wine yarn roughly 3 inches in length. Attach them to each st of Round 2 on the top of the head, using a lark’s head knot: Fold the strand of yarn in half and use your crochet hook to pull the halfway point of the yarn strand through the stitch on the head to make a small loop. Pull the two tail ends of that yarn strand through the small loop, and pull them tight to knot the strand in place. Repeat until you’ve used all the yarn. You can leave the hair uneven or trim it all to the same length.

BARNABAS THE Ogre

Ogres get a bad reputation in most fairy tales, and they’re often portrayed as large, ugly, and stupid. They’re also known for their bad habit of eating people. Barnabas wants you to know that he is a changed Ogre. He’s taking online classes, he’s implemented a twice-daily skincare regimen, and he’s cut way back on his people consumption. He would make an excellent houseguest, and he promises not to eat you. Well, maybe just a bite. . . . Barnabas is made up of several pieces that are crocheted in continuous rounds and sewn together.

Size: 11 inches tall x 7 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron Jumbo worsted (100% acrylic; 595 yards (544 m) / 340 g) in Foliage

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in White (small amount for teeth)

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Picot (p)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1

Make a magic ring in Foliage.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 10 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec); rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 21: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 23–27: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 29: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

On the last st of Round 29, change to Dark Brown.

Rounds 30–31: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 30 sts]

Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 32: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 35: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2 in Foliage

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 4–5: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Rounds 8–19: Sc in each st around. [12 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 20: Dec in each pair of st around. [5 sts]

Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing that they can keep their shape while remaining supple and pliable.

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.

Legs

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Foliage.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 8: Dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [18 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve completed the foot. Add a little bit of stuffing and continue to stuff as you work the leg.

Rounds 10–17: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 12 sts]

On the last st of Round 17, change to Dark Brown.

Rounds 18–19: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 3 more times. [8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the leg and attaching it to the body. With the foot facing forward, press the top of the leg flat and stitch it closed. The seam at the top of the leg should be perpendicular to the foot, so when it is attached to the body the leg can move backward and forward.

Ears

Make 2 in Foliage

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next st, inc; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 6–7: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for sewing the ear closed and attaching it to the head. Press the ear flat so the bottom edge lines up and use a tapestry needle and the tail to stitch it closed. Fold the closed bottom edge of the ear in half and stitch the sides together to create a curve in the ear, then set aside.

Nose

Make 1 in Foliage

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Rounds 3–4: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the face, then set aside.

Mouth

The Ogre’s mouth is made by crocheting a circle with 2 picot teeth and folding that circle in half before attaching it to the face.

Make 1

Make a magic ring in Foliage.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: Sc in the next 3 sts . . .

On the third st, change to White but do not cut the working Foliage yarn.

. . . p, sc in the next st . . .

Change to Foliage; with the tail and the working yarn of the White yarn, tie a knot and trim the yarn.

. . . sc in the next 10 st . . .

On the tenth st, change to White but do not cut the yarn.

. . . p, sc in the next st . . .

Change to Foliage; with the tail and the working yarn of the White yarn, tie a knot and trim the yarn.

. . . sc in the next 21 sts to return to the end of the round. [36 sts with 2 p]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail to stitch the mouth closed and attach it to the face. Fold the circle in half so the last round lines up, and with the teeth evenly spaced from the center, stitch the top edge of the mouth closed. Set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Begin with the legs: Stitch the tops of the legs to the bottom of the Ogre’s body so that the feet are facing forward. The inside corner of the top of each leg should be right at the center of the bottom of the Ogre’s body.

2.Attach the arms on either side of the body, straight out to the sides, 1 round down from the neck (the thinnest round on the body).

3.Place the mouth so that the teeth are on the side closest to the face and the bottom edge of the mouth is 1 round up from the neck. Stitch along the bottom half of the mouth from corner to corner.

4.Stuff and attach the nose centered between the eyes so it rests on the top of the mouth.

5.Attach the ears on the same level as the eyes, 4 sts to the outside of the eye, so that the concave side of the ear is facing forward.

TIBERIUS THE Yeti

The Yeti is a glorious, reclusive, apelike creature that makes its home in the snowy mountains. Sightings of Yeti are incredibly rare, but they’ve been spotted enough times that we know their table manners are truly abominable. It makes sense, because most dinner guests are unwilling to make the trek up the slopes to join them for a meal. All the pieces that make up the Yeti are crocheted in continuous rounds and sewn together. (With a few simple alterations—like changing the colors to shades of brown and tan and leaving off the horns—this pattern can also be used to make the Yeti’s distant cousin the Sasquatch.)

Size: 7 inches tall x 6 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in White

•Caron One Pound in Pale Green

•Caron One Pound in Black (small amount for mouth)

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Double crochet (dc)

•Popcorn stitch (pc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1 in White

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 19: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Rounds 21–24: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 36 sts]

Round 25: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 26–30: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 42 sts]

Stuff the head fully and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 31: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 32: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 35: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Finish stuffing the body before working the last round.

Round 36: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Face

Make 1 in Pale Green

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

Round 5: Sc in the next 2 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 6 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 4 sts. [30 sts]

Round 6: Sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 9 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 6 sts. [36 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for attaching to the head. With the oval positioned so the longer side is horizontal and the shorter side is vertical, insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 4 and 5 on either side of the face so they line up with the magic ring. Find the center point between the eyes and count 4 rounds down to locate where the center of the smile should be. Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the mouth by making 2 diagonal lines that meet in the center to form a wide V. Set aside the face.

Horns

Make 2 in Pale Green

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 4 in magic ring. [4 sts]

Round 2: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st. [6 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [8 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Pale Green.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

On the last st of Round 3, change to White.

Rounds 4–7: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail. Using the handle end of your hook, add a small amount of stuffing to the bottom half of the arm. Press the top of the arm flat and stitch it closed, leaving the tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Feet

Make 2 in Pale Green

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Round 6: Sc in the next 2 sts, *sc in the next st, 5dc pc in the next st; rep from * 3 more times; sc in the next 14 sts. [24 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Round 8: Dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [18 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Attach the face to the front of the head so that the bottom of the face is 1 round up from the neck (the narrowest part of the body) and the top of the face is 6 rounds down from the top of the head.

2.Stuff the horns and attach them to the top of the head. The curve of the horn should point toward the center, and the inside edge of the base of each horn should be 4 rounds from the center.

3.Attach the arms at the shoulder, the round below the narrowest point of the neck. They should be attached on a slight diagonal, with the inside corner of the arm higher than the outside so that the arms are angled slightly forward.

4.Stuff the feet, then set the Yeti body upright on a flat surface. The heel of the foot should rest on the flat surface with the toes straight up. Line up the foot with the body and attach it where the last round of the foot meets the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with second leg. The feet should be around 5 sts apart and centered on the front of the body.

KONRAD THE Kraken

Feared by sailors everywhere, it rises from the depths—behold the Kraken! This many-armed mystery is one of the most misunderstood creatures in the vast ocean. Blamed for shipwrecks the world over, Konrad the Kraken is just looking for somebody to hug. If you know someone who could use a particularly strong embrace, they’d be a great companion for this needy creature. Konrad’s body is worked in continuous rounds until you reach the tentacles, which are worked flat while still attached to the body. The only sewing this ancient cephalopod requires is a small bottom piece attached underneath.

Size:

Regular Kraken: 6 inches tall x 5 inches wide

Jumbo Kraken: 12 inches tall x 10 inches wide

Materials:

Regular Kraken

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Deep Violet

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

Jumbo Kraken

•Bernat Blanket Yarn super bulky (100% polyester; 220 yards (201 m) / 300 g) in Aubergine

•US M-13 (9 mm) crochet hook

•40 mm safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Chain (ch)

•Single crochet (sc)

•Double crochet (dc)

•Slip stitch (sl st)

•Front loop only (FLO)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Body and Tentacles

Make 1 in Deep Violet (regular) or Aubergine (jumbo)

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 6 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [48 sts]

Rounds 9–18: Sc in each st around. [10 rounds @ 48 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 6 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 21: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Next we’ll be making the Kraken’s brow ridge by doing a series of increases, working a few rounds, and then decreasing.

Round 23: Inc in the next 12 sts, sc in the next 12 sts. [36 sts]

Rounds 24–25: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 36 sts]

Round 26: Dec in the next 12 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [24 sts]

You’ve finished the brow ridge. It’s a large bulge over where the eyes will be.

Rounds 27–29: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 26 and 27. Place them 8 sts apart and centered under the brow ridge.

Round 30: *Sc in the FLO of the next 3 sts, inc in the FLO of the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

The back loop from Round 30 will be where the bottom piece of the Kraken is attached.

Round 31: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 32: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 6 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [48 sts]

Next we’ll be making the tentacles by creating a ch and working back across it before continuing around the body.

Round 34: *Sc in the next st, ch 21, dc in the second ch from the hook and each st across the chain until you’re back to the body, sc in the next st on the body, sl st in the next 4 st; rep from * 7 more times. [Makes 8 evenly spaced tentacles]

We won’t need to stuff the Kraken until it is time to assemble. Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail, and weave in the end.

Bottom Piece

Make 1 in Deep Violet (regular) or Aubergine (jumbo)

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches (regular Kraken) or a long tail of 20 to 22 inches (jumbo Kraken) for attaching to the body.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Begin by stuffing the body of the Kraken. Make sure the stuffing fills out the brow ridge, and stuff up until the line that is made by the back loops from Round 30.

2.Using a tapestry needle, sew the bottom piece of the Kraken to the back loops from Round 30. The side of the bottom piece that has the tail from the magic ring should go to the inside of the body. There are 24 back loops and 24 sts on the last round of the bottom piece, so it should line up nicely. Be sure to add a little extra stuffing before you finish attaching. Weave in the end.

NESSIE THE Loch Ness Monster

The existence of the Loch Ness Monster has been the subject of hot debate since the 1930s, when news of the reclusive reptile spread around the globe. It’s perfectly understandable why she’s so shy—nobody likes to be called a fake! There’s no denying that this amigurumi Nessie exists and that she’s totally adorable. Each piece of this creature is made in continuous rounds, and everything is sewn together at the end.

Size: 9 inches tall x 7½ inches wide x 10 inches long

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Canal

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Neck

Make 1 in Canal

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 6–10: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 30 sts]

Round 11: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 12: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 7 and 8, 8 sts apart.

Rounds 13–16: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 8 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [20 sts]

Rounds 18–20: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 20 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing the head and neck as you work through the remaining rounds.

Round 21: *Sc in the next 9 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [22 sts]

Rounds 22–24: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 22 sts]

Round 25: *Sc in the next 10 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [24 sts]

Round 26: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Muzzle

Make 1 in Canal

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the 2 next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 3 more times. [16 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [16 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Head Fins

Make 2 in Canal

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 4: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Body and Tail

Make 1 in Canal

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Rounds 7–10: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 36 sts]

Round 11: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Round 12: *Sc in the next 6 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [48 sts]

Rounds 13–16: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 48 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 6 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Round 18: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Rounds 19–22: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 36 sts]

Begin stuffing the body and continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 23: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 24: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 25: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 26–29: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 30: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Rounds 31–34: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 35: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Rounds 36–37: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 38: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 39: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 40: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Round 41: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Fins

Make 4 in Canal

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [14 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 6 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [16 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 7 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [18 sts]

Round 8: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next 7 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [16 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next 6 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [14 sts]

Round 11: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 12: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 13: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the fin and attaching it to the body. Press the fin flat and stitch it closed, then set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Set the body of the Loch Ness Monster so the widest part is on a flat surface. Make sure the head and neck are stuffed fully and attach them to the body with the eyes facing forward; the front of the neck should sit at Round 4 of the body.

2.Stuff the muzzle and attach it centered between the eyes so the top edge of the muzzle is in line with the center of the eyes.

3.Stuff and attach the head fins to the top of the head. They are placed with the lowest part of the base 1 round up and 4 sts to the outside of the eyes.

4.With the body still resting on the flat surface, attach the fins. The placement of the fins is crucial to making sure that Nessie can stand on her own. The bulk of the fin will rest on the flat surface but the base of the fin, where it attaches to the body, is attached about 2 sts up from the surface. The base of the front fins should be attached to Rounds 8 to 10 of the body. The base of the back fins should start about 8 rounds back from the base of the front fins.

MARINA THE Mermaid

For as long as humans have sailed the seas, there have been tales of beautiful half-fish, half-women swimming in the depths. The nature of mermaids varies from place to place. Some cultures view them as portents of imminent disaster, whereas others view them as signs of good luck; some say they may even grant wishes. Whatever your opinion on mermaids, it’s no secret that the call of the sea can be alluring. Who wouldn’t want to spend their days playing with dolphins and collecting shiny shells? Most of the pieces that make up Marina are crocheted in continuous rounds and sewn together. Her seashell top is worked flat and sewn on, and her hair is made by tying individual strands of yarn to her head.

Size: 12 inches tall x 6 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Robin’s Egg

•Caron Jumbo worsted (100% acrylic; 595 yards (544 m) / 340 g) in Garden Grows

•Caron One Pound in Light Violet

•Caron One Pound in Blue Danube

•Caron One Pound in Black (small amount for mouth)

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Chain (ch)

•Single crochet (sc)

•Half double crochet (hdc)

•Slip stitch (sl st)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

•Lark’s head knot

Head and Body

Make 1

Make a magic ring in Robin’s Egg.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 13 and 14, 9 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 21: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 23–27: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 29–30: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 30 sts]

On the last st of Round 30, change to Garden Grows.

Rounds 31–34: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 30 sts]

Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 35: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 36–38: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 39: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 40–42: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 43: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Rounds 44–46: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 47: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 48: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 49: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2 in Robin’s Egg

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Rounds 3–16: Sc in each st around. [14 rounds @ 8 sts]

Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing so they keep their shape but remain supple and pliable.

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.

Tail Fins

Make 2 in Garden Grows

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 6–7: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the fin and attaching it to the body. Press the fin flat and stitch it closed, then set aside.

Side Fins

Make 2 in Garden Grows

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the fin and attaching it to the body. Press the fin flat and stitch it closed, then set aside.

Seashell Top

Make 1 in Light Violet

Ch 11.

Row 1: Hdc in the second ch from the hook, hdc in the next 3 ch, sl st in the next 2 ch, hdc in the next 4 ch, ch 1 and turn. [10 sts]

Rows 2–3: Hdc in the next 4 sts, sl st in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 4 sts, ch 1 and turn. [2 rows @ 10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body, and set aside.

Ears

Make 2 in Robin’s Egg

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 4 in magic ring. [4 sts]

Round 2: Sc in each st around. [4 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the ear and attaching it to the body. Press the bottom of the ear flat and stitch it closed, then set aside.

Hair Cap

Make 1 in Blue Danube

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–13: Sc in each st around. [6 rounds @ 42 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for attaching the hair cap to the head, and set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Attach the tail fins to the very bottom of the tail, facing front. The inside corners of the fins should meet at the center bottom of the tail. After attaching the second fin, make 2 stitches to attach the inside edges of the tail fins together where they meet at the base of the tail.

2.Attach the small side fins on either side of the tail, 4 rounds down from where the color change occurred between the body and tail.

3.Place the seashell top on the Mermaid’s chest, with the narrowest part in the center. The center of the seashell top should rest on the fourth round down from the neck (the thinnest round on the body). Stitch the right side of the seashell top to the body and repeat on the left side.

4.Attach the arms to the side of the body, 1 round down from the neck. Angle the arms slightly forward and stitch around the top edge.

5.Take the hair cap and, with the tail at center back, pull the cap down on the head. It should be angled slightly back so the hair cap sits around 4 rounds above the tops of the eyes in the front and about 5 rounds up from the neck in the back. Use the long tail to stitch the hair cap in place.

6.Attach the ears so the bottom of each ear lines up with the bottom of the eyes. Place the ear 2 sts to the outside of the eye and rotate it so the tip of the ear is pointed toward the back of the body. Stitch along the bottom edge.

7.Find the center point between the eyes and count 4 rounds down to locate where the center of the smile should be. Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the mouth by making 2 diagonal lines that meet in the center to form a wide V for the smile. The corners of the mouth should be 2 sts away from the center point and 1 round up.

8.For the hair, cut a large number of strands of Blue Danube yarn around 18 inches long. To attach them to the hair cap, we’ll be using a lark’s head knot: Fold the yarn in half and use your crochet hook to pull the halfway point of the yarn strand through a stitch on the hair cap to make a small loop. Pull the two tail ends of that yarn strand through the small loop, then pull them tight to knot the strand in place. I like to attach a strand of yarn to every stitch on the front portion of the hair cap to create an even hairline. For the rest of the hair cap, I attach a strand of yarn to every other stitch; this provides great coverage but isn’t too bulky. Once you have attached as many strands as you would like, use your fingers to comb the hair into the desired style and trim the ends to your desired length.

SERENA THE Hippocampus

A powerful creature of the sea, the Hippocampus has the upper body of a horse and the lower body of a fish. These aquatic equines are companions of Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea, earthquakes, and, of course, horses. This regal creature would make an excellent gift for someone in your life who can’t decide if they like horses or mermaids more. All the pieces that make up the Hippocampus are crocheted in continuous rounds and sewn together. Her flowing mane is knotted directly onto her head, and the nostrils are embroidered on with yarn.

Size: 12 inches tall x 6 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Blue Danube

•Caron Jumbo worsted (100% acrylic; 595 yards (544 m) / 340 g) in Garden Grows

•Caron One Pound in Robin’s Egg

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

•Lark’s head knot

Head and Body

Make 1

Make a magic ring in Blue Danube.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 8 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 21: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 23–27: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 29–30: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 30 sts]

On the last st of Round 30, change to Garden Grows.

Rounds 31–34: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 30 sts]

Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 35: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 36–38: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 39: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 40–42: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 43: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Rounds 44–46: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 47: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 48: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 49: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Snout

Make 1 in Blue Danube

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Rounds 4–7: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 18 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Ears

Make 2 in Blue Danube

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [10 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for sewing the ear closed and attaching it to the head. Press the ear flat so the bottom edge lines up and use a tapestry needle and the tail to stitch it closed. Fold the closed bottom edge of the ear in half and stitch the sides together to create a curve in the ear, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Robin’s Egg.

Round 1: Sc 5 in magic ring. [5 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [10 sts]

Rounds 3–5: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 10 sts]

On the last st of Round 5, change to Blue Danube.

Rounds 6–16: Sc in each st around. [11 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 17: Dec in each pair of st around. [5 sts]

Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing so they keep their shape but remain supple and pliable.

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.

Tail Fins

Make 2 in Garden Grows

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next st, inc; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Rounds 6–7: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the fin and attaching it to the body. Press the fin flat and stitch the last round closed, then set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Stuff and attach the snout, lining it up so the top sits on the round below the eyes and the snout is centered on the face.

2.For the nostrils, take a medium strand of Robin’s Egg yarn and use the tapestry needle to stitch two clusters of stitches, 4 sts apart and 2 rounds tall each. Make multiple passes with the needle to build up the nostrils.

3.Attach the ears to the top of the head, angled slightly outward, lined up just outside of the eyes, about 4 rounds away from the center of the top of the head.

4.Attach the tail fins to the very bottom of the tail, facing front. The inside corners of the fins should meet at the center bottom of the tail. After attaching the second fin, make 2 stitches to attach the inside edges of the tail fins together where they meet at the base of the tail.

5.Attach the arms to the side of the body, 1 round down from the neck. Angle the arms slightly forward and stitch around the top edge.

6.For the mane, cut a large number of strands of Robin’s Egg yarn around 18 inches long. To attach them to the head we’ll be using a lark’s head knot: Fold the yarn in half and use your crochet hook to pull the halfway point of the yarn strand through a stitch on the head to make a small loop. Pull the two tail ends of that yarn strand through the small loop and pull them tight to knot the strand in place. Make a stripe 4 strands wide that goes along the center of the head, starting 4 rounds to the front of the top of the head and ending roughly halfway down the back of the head. Once you have attached all the strands, use your fingers to comb the mane into the desired style and trim the ends to your desired length.

MOIRA THE Pegacorn

Unicorns are famous for their horns and pegasi are known for their wings, but the Pegacorn is the best of both worlds. With wings and a horn, they spread joy and wonder across the land and sky. Moira would do a world of good for anyone in your life who could use a little extra magic. All the pieces that make up this ethereal equine are crocheted in continuous rounds. The head and body are worked as one piece, and all the limbs are made separately and sewn on. The flowing mane is knotted directly onto the head, and the nostrils are embroidered on with yarn.

Size: 8 inches tall x 7 inches wide

Materials:

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Soft Pink

•Caron One Pound in Yellow

•Caron One Pound in Rose

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

•Lark’s head knot

Head and Body

Make 1 in Soft Pink

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 8 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 21: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 23–27: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 29–31: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 30 sts]

Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 32: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 35: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Snout

Make 1 in Soft Pink

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Rounds 4–7: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 18 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Ears

Make 2 in Soft Pink

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [10 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for sewing the ear closed and attaching it to the head. Press the ear flat so the bottom edge lines up and use a tapestry needle and the tail to stitch it closed. Fold the closed bottom edge of the ear in half and stitch the sides together to create a curve in the ear, then set aside.

Horn

Make 1 in Yellow

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Rounds 2–3: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 6 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Rounds 5–8: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 8 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the body, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Rose.

Round 1: Sc 5 in magic ring. [5 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [10 sts]

Rounds 3–5: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 10 sts]

On the last st of Round 5, change to Soft Pink.

Rounds 6–16: Sc in each st around. [11 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 17: Dec in each pair of st around. [5 sts]

Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing so they keep their shape but remain supple and pliable.

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.

Legs

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Rose.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 8: Dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [18 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

On last st of Round 9, change to Soft Pink.

You’ve completed the foot. Add a little bit of stuffing and continue to stuff as you work the leg.

Rounds 10–17: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 12 sts]

Finish stuffing the leg.

Round 18: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the leg and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the leg, then set aside.

Wings

Make 2 in Soft Pink

To make the wings, we start with 3 separate cones that will be crocheted together.

Cones 1 and 2

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Place a removable stitch marker in the very last sc you made in Round 3. When it comes time to join the three cones together, this is where you will make your first st.

Cone 3 and the Rest of the Wing

For cone 3, repeat the steps for cones 1 and 2 but do not fasten off the yarn.

Now that you have 3 separate cones, we need to join them together. Begin your round on cone 3 (the current cone).

Round 4: Sc in the next 4 sts . . .

Pick up one of the other cones and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the second cone . . .

Pick up the last cone and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the last cone . . .

This is the halfway point for this round. You should have 3 cones that are connected on the front. Now we need to make our way back to the beginning of the round.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts, sc in the next 5 sts on the middle cone, sc in the next 5 sts on the first cone.

You’re now back to the beginning of the round. The 3 cones with 10 sts have now become a single round of 30 sts. Continue working in the round as normal. [30 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 9: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 11: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 12: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail for attaching to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the wing, then insert your needle through the center of the last round and out near the tip of one of the outside cones; set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Stuff and attach the snout, lining it up so the top sits on the round below the eyes and the snout is centered on the face.

2.For the nostrils, take a medium strand of Rose yarn and use the tapestry needle to stitch two clusters of stitches, 4 sts apart and 2 rounds tall each. Make multiple passes with the needle to build up the nostrils.

3.Attach the ears to the top of the head, angled slightly outward, lined up just outside of the eyes, about 4 rounds away from the center of the top of the head.

4.Stuff and attach the horn in the center of the forehead so the bottom is about 4 rounds above the top of the eyes.

5.Set your Pegacorn on a flat surface. Grab one of the legs, set it on the flat surface with the foot pointing up, and place it next to the body. With the leg positioned so the foot is out in front of the body, stitch the top edge of the leg to the side of the body. The top of the leg should be around 7 sts away from the center of the belly. Repeat these steps on the other side with second leg.

6.With the Pegacorn still sitting on the flat surface, grab one of the arms. Set the bottom of the arm on the flat surface in between the legs. Lean the arm against the body so the top of the arm sits between where the leg is attached and the head; stitch the top edge where it connects to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with the second arm.

7.Attach the wings to the back of the body, about halfway down, 3 sts apart, and evenly spaced from the center. Stitch along the edge of the cone.

8.For the mane, cut a large number of strands of Rose yarn around 18 inches long. To attach them to the head we’ll be using a lark’s head knot. Make a stripe 4 strands wide that goes along the center of the head, starting 4 rounds to the front of the top of the head and ending roughly halfway down the back of the head. Once you have attached all the strands, use your fingers to comb the mane into the desired style and trim the ends to your desired length.

9.For the tail, cut a number of strands of Rose yarn, roughly 12 inches in length. Attach individual strands with a lark’s head knot in a cluster at the center back bottom of the Pegacorn. Trim the ends to your desired length.

PERCIVAL THE Griffin

Griffins are regarded as one of the most majestic magical creatures. They have the head and talons of an eagle and the body of a lion—a beautiful cross between the king of birds and the king of beasts. Percival would make a worthy gift for any little princess or prince in your life. Most of the pieces for this noble creature are made in continuous rounds and sewn together. The head and body are worked as one piece, and all the limbs are made separately and sewn on. The feather tufts are worked flat and sewn on, and the neck frill is worked directly onto the body. The talons and claws are embroidered on with yarn.

Size: 7 inches tall x 6½ inches wide

Materials:

•Red Heart Super Saver worsted (100% acrylic; 364 yards (333 m) / 198 g) in Soft White

•Red Heart Super Saver in Café Latte

•Red Heart Super Saver in Saffron

•US G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Chain (ch)

•Single crochet (sc)

•Half double crochet (hdc)

•Double crochet (dc)

•Slip stitch (sl st)

•Back loop only (BLO)

•Picot (p)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1

Make a magic ring in Soft White

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 8–15: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds @ 42 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 11 and 12, 9 sts apart.

Round 16: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 18: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 20: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve now finished the head and will begin increasing to make the body.

Round 21: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 22: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

On the last st of Round 22, change to Café Latte.

Round 23: Sc into the BLO of each st around. [24 sts]

The front loops from Round 23 will be used to add the neck frill.

Rounds 24–27: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 24 sts]

Before continuing the body, we’ll be adding the neck frill to the front loops from Round 23. Pull the working loop of the Café Latte yarn wide so that you don’t accidentally undo any stitches on the body.

Neck Frill

Make 1 in Soft White

Insert your hook into the first front loop of Round 23 and pick up the Soft White yarn and pull it through, leaving a short tail similar to a color change tail.

Ch 1 to secure the yarn in place.

Round 1: Sc in the same space as the ch 1, make a picot: Ch 3 and make a sl st in the back bump of the third chain from the hook . . .

We’re now going to continue making picots around the neck to give it a jagged, feathery look.

. . . *sc in the next 2 sts, p; rep from * 10 more times, sc in the next st. [24 sc with 12 p]

You’ve now made it back to the beginning of the round. Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail and weave in the ends.

Continue with the Body.

Insert your hook into the working loop of the Café Latte yarn and pull the working yarn snug.

Round 28: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 29–31: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 30 sts]

Make sure the head is fully stuffed and begin stuffing the shoulders; continue stuffing as you work the remaining rounds.

Round 32: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 33: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 35: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Beak

Make 1 in Saffron

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 4 in magic ring. [4 sts]

Round 2: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st. [6 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [8 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 3 more times. [12 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching it to the head, then set aside.

Feather Tufts

Make 2 in Soft White

Ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, sc in the next st, hdc in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 2 sts. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Arms

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Saffron.

Round 1: Sc 5 in magic ring. [5 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [10 sts]

Rounds 3–5: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 10 sts]

On the last st of Round 8, change to Café Latte.

Rounds 6–16: Sc in each st around. [11 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 17: Dec in each pair of st around. [5 sts]

Stuff the arms as you go, using just enough stuffing so they keep their shape but remain supple and pliable.

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the arm and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm, then set aside.

Legs

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Café Latte.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc 3 in the next st, inc in the next st, sc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 3: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [18 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 3 sts, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 2 more times; sc in the next 2 sts. [24 sts]

Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 8: Dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 12 sts. [18 sts]

Round 9: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

You’ve completed the foot. Add a little bit of stuffing and continue to stuff as you work the leg.

Rounds 10–17: Sc in each st around. [8 rounds of 12 sts]

Finish stuffing the leg.

Round 18: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the leg and attaching it to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the leg, then set aside.

Wings

Make 2 in Café Latte

To make the wings, we start with 3 separate cones that will be crocheted together.

Cones 1 and 2

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Place a removable stitch marker in the very last sc you made in Round 3. When it comes time to join the three cones together, this is where you will make your first st.

Cone 3 and the Rest of the Wing

For cone 3, repeat the steps for cones 1 and 2 but do not fasten off the yarn.

Now that you have 3 separate cones, we need to join them together. Begin your round on cone 3 (the current cone).

Round 4: Sc in the next 4 sts . . .

Pick up one of the other cones and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the second cone . . .

Pick up the last cone and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the last cone . . .

This is the halfway point for this round. You should have 3 cones that are connected on the front. Now we need to make our way back to the beginning of the round.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts, sc in the next 5 sts on the middle cone, sc in the next 5 sts on the first cone.

You’re now back to the beginning of the round. The 3 cones with 10 sts have now become a single round of 30 sts. Continue working in the round as normal. [30 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 9: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 11: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 12: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for attaching to the body. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the wing, then insert your yarn needle through the center of the last round and out near the tip of one of the outside cones; set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Stuff and attach the beak, centered in between the eyes, so the top edge lines up with the center of the eyes. The tip of the beak should be pointing down.

2.Attach the feather tufts to the top of the head so the inside edge of each tuft is around Round 3 of the head and the tufts are pointing toward the back. Stitch along the bottom edge of each tuft.

3.Set your Griffin on a flat surface. Grab one of the legs, set it on the flat surface with the foot pointing up, and place it next to the body. With the leg positioned so the foot is out in front of the body, stitch the top edge of the leg to the side of the body. The top of the leg should be around 7 sts away from the center of the belly. Repeat these steps on the other side with second leg.

4.With the Griffin still sitting on the flat surface, grab one of the arms. Set the bottom of the arm on the flat surface in between the legs. Lean the arm against the body so the top of the arm sits between where the leg is attached and the head; stitch the top edge where it connects to the body. Repeat these steps on the other side with the second arm.

5.Attach the wings to the back of the body, about halfway between the base of the body and the neck frill, 3 sts apart, and evenly spaced from the center. Stitch along the edge of the cone.

6.For the talons on the arms, take a medium strand of Soft White yarn and embroider 3 vertical lines, 2 rounds long, at the bottom of the arm. The middle talon should be in the center and the other 2 talons should be 1 st away on either side. Repeat these steps on the other arm.

7.For the claws on the legs, take a medium strand of Soft White yarn and embroider 3 vertical lines spanning Rounds 4 to 6 of the foot. The middle claw should be centered on the top of the foot and the other 2 claws should be 1 st away on either side. Repeat these steps on the other leg.

8.For the tail, cut 6 strands of Café Latte at around 25 to 30 inches. Use your hook to pull the strands halfway through the stitches at the center back bottom. Divide the strands into 3 groups of 4 and braid them to the desired length, roughly 1½ inches. Secure the braid with a knot and trim the excess strands to leave a 1-inch fringe.

JOAQUIN THE Phoenix

The Phoenix is a beloved magical creature that symbolizes rebirth. It lives its life in a blaze of glory until consumed by its own flames, then it rises once again from the ashes. Joaquin is a Phoenix in the prime of his life, burning brightly across the sky; some would even say he’s a star. He would make a great gift for someone who’s about to start a new chapter in their life. His head, neck, and body are worked as one piece in continuous rounds, and his beak and tail feathers are also worked in continuous rounds and are sewn on. His feet and head feathers are worked flat before they’re sewn on. The wings are constructed by making three separate pieces and crocheting them together.

Size: 8 inches tall x 8 inches at wingspan

Materials:

•Red Heart Super Saver Ombre worsted (100% acrylic; 482 yards (441 m) / 283 g) in Hot Sauce

•Red Heart Super Saver worsted (100% acrylic; 364 yards (333 m) / 198 g) in Saffron

•US G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Single crochet (sc)

•Chain (ch)

•Half double crochet (hdc)

•Double crochet (dc)

•Slip stitch (sl st)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

Head and Body

Make 1 in Hot Sauce

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 6–10: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 30 sts]

Round 11: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 12: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Insert 14 mm safety eyes between Rounds 7 and 8, 9 sts apart.

Rounds 13–16: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next 8 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [20 sts]

Rounds 18–20: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 20 sts]

Begin stuffing the head and continue stuffing the head and neck as you go.

Round 21: *Sc in the next 9 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [22 sts]

Rounds 22–24: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 22 sts]

Round 25: *Sc in the next 10 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [24 sts]

Round 26: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Round 27: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Round 28: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Rounds 29–30: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 36 sts]

Round 31: *Sc in the next 5 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [42 sts]

Rounds 32–33: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 42 sts]

Round 34: *Sc in the next 5 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [36 sts]

Round 35: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Continue stuffing the head and body as you work the next few rounds.

Round 36: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 37: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 38: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 39: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail of 6 to 8 inches for closing the body. Add any extra stuffing before using a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the body and weave in the end, then set aside.

Head Feathers

Make 2 in Hot Sauce

Ch 13.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next st, hdc in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 2 sts, hdc in the next 4 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail of 14 to 16 inches for attaching to the head, then set aside.

Beak

Make 1 in Saffron

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 4 in magic ring. [4 sts]

Round 2: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next st. [6 sts]

Round 3: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Round 4: Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next 2 sts, sc in the next 2 sts. [8 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [8 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 3 more times. [12 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the head and set aside.

Wings

Make 2

To make the wings, we start with 3 separate cones that will be crocheted together.

Cones 1 and 2

Make a magic ring in Saffron.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Place a removable stitch marker in the very last sc you did in Round 3. When it comes time to join the three cones together, this is where you will make your first st.

Cone 3 and the Rest of the Wing

For cone 3, repeat the steps for cones 1 and 2 but do not fasten off the yarn.

On the last st of Round 3, change to Hot Sauce.

Now that you have 3 separate cones, we need to join them together. Begin your round on cone 3 (the current cone).

Round 4: Sc in the next 4 sts . . .

Pick up one of the other cones and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the second cone . . .

Pick up the last cone and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts on the last cone . . .

This is the halfway point for this round. You should have 3 cones that are connected on the front. Now we need to make our way back to the beginning of the round.

. . . sc in the next 5 sts, sc in the next 5 sts on the middle cone, sc in the next 5 sts on the first cone.

You’re now back to the beginning of the round. The 3 cones with 10 sts have now become a single round of 30 sts. Continue working in the round as normal. [30 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [30 sts]

Round 6: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 7: Sc in each st around. [24 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 9: Sc in each st around. [18 sts]

Round 10: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 11: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 12: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the wing and weave in the end (we will be attaching the wing to the body with Saffron yarn, so we will not need this tail), then set aside.

Feet

Make 2 in Saffron

The feet are made by crocheting a small circle and adding toes that are worked flat but still attached to the circle.

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Ch 3, sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, sl st in the next st on the circle; rep from * 1 more time; sl st in the next 2 sts, ch 3, sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, sl st in the next st on the circle. [You should have a small foot with 2 toes on one side and 1 toe on the other side.]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching it to the body, then set aside.

Small Tail Feathers

Make 2

Make a magic ring in Saffron.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

On the last st of Round 4, change to Hot Sauce.

Rounds 5–7: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Rounds 9–11: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 12: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Rounds 13–15: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 8 sts]

Round 16: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Round 17: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the tail feather and attaching it to the body. Press the feather flat and stitch the last round closed, then set aside.

Large Tail Feather

Make 1

Make a magic ring in Saffron.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

On the last st of Round 5, change to Hot Sauce.

Rounds 6–7: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 18 sts]

Round 8: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Rounds 9–10: Sc in each st around. [2 rounds @ 12 sts]

Round 11: *Sc in the next 4 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Rounds 12–14: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 10 sts]

Round 15: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Rounds 16–18: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 8 sts]

Round 19: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Round 20: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for closing the tail feather and attaching it to the body. Press the feather flat and stitch the last round closed, then set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Stuff and attach the beak, placing it in the center of the face so that the top edge of the beak is on the same round as the bottom edge of the eyes, with the curve of the beak pointing down.

2.Attach the head feathers to the top of the head, 2 rounds away from the center point so that the bulk of the feathers hang off the back of the Phoenix’s head.

3.Taking a medium strand of Saffron yarn, attach the wings to either side of the body. You’ll be attaching the wing along only the outer edge of one of the Saffron cones on the side of the wing. The wing should be placed so the top of the Saffron cone is where the neck (the narrowest point) of the Phoenix begins to expand into the body.

4.Turn your Phoenix upside down so you’re looking at the underside of the body. The feet will be placed on the front half of the underside of the body, so that the 2-toed side faces front. You’ll want to stitch around only the circle portion of the foot, leaving the toes free. Make a stitch in between the 2 front toes, then weave in the ends.

5.Attach the two smaller tail feathers about 6 rounds up from the last round of the body, directly next to each other so that they meet at the center of the back.

6.Attach the large tail feather 1 round up from the smaller tail feathers and centered between them.

GALE AND IRIS THE Cloud Sprites

Magical creatures are responsible for most of the things we consider to be natural phenomena, and the weather is no different! If you’ve ever lain in the grass and seen a face looking down at you from the clouds, you’ve had the great fortune of spotting a Cloud Sprite in its natural habitat. I suggest making one of these sprites to keep in your home, where you can speak to them when you want to make sure the weather cooperates with your plans. The head, body, and arms are made in continuous rounds and sewn together, and the scarf is made flat and attached.

Size: 7 inches tall x 5½ inches wide

Materials:

Iris the Rainbow Cloud Sprite

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in White

•Caron One Pound in Light Pink

•Caron One Pound in Peach

•Caron One Pound in Cream

•Caron One Pound in Pale Green

•Caron One Pound in Sky Blue

•Caron One Pound in Lilac

•Caron One Pound in Black (small amount for mouth)

Gale the Stormy Cloud Sprite

•Caron One Pound worsted (100% acrylic; 812 yards (742 m) / 454 g) in Medium Gray Mix

•Caron One Pound in Sky Blue

•Caron One Pound in Royalty

•Caron One Pound in Yellow

•Caron One Pound in Black (small amount for mouth)

•US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook

•14 mm black safety eyes

•Polyester fiberfill

•Tapestry needle

•Stitch markers

•Scissors

Stitches Used:

•Magic ring

•Chain (ch)

•Single crochet (sc)

•Increase (inc)

•Invisible decrease (dec)

•Lark’s head knot

Cloud Head

Make 1 in either White or Medium Gray Mix

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: Inc in each st around. [12 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Round 5: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Rounds 6–9: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 30 sts]

We’ll now begin the cloud shaping using decreases and increases.

Round 10: Sc in the next st, dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 17 sts. [24 sts]

Round 11: Sc in the next st, inc in the next 6 sts, sc in the next 17 sts. [30 sts]

Round 12: Sc in the next st, *sc in the next st, inc in the next st; rep from * 5 more times; sc in the next 17 sts. [36 sts]

Rounds 13–17: Sc in each st around. [5 rounds @ 36 sts]

We’ll now do the same shaping, but in reverse order, so the top of the cloud head is symmetrical. Because we’re crocheting in a spiral, the stitches have shifted a bit, so look out for the extra st at the beginning of the round that will help keep everything in line.

Round 18: Sc in the next 2 sts, *sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times; sc in the next 16 sts. [30 sts]

Round 19: Sc in the next 2 sts, dec in the next 6 pairs of st, sc in the next 16 sts. [24 sts]

Round 20: Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next 6 sts, sc in the next 16 sts. [30 sts]

Rounds 21–24: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 30 sts]

The shaping we did created 2 small creases in the top of the cloud head. Locate the deepest part of the crease and insert 14 mm safety eyes 1 st down and 1 round to the outside of this crease.

Round 25: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Begin stuffing the cloud head and continue stuffing as you work the next few rounds.

Round 26: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 27: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Round 28: Dec in each pair of st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a small tail of 6 to 8 inches. Add any extra stuffing, then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the cloud head and weave in the end, then set aside.

Legs and Body

Make 2 legs in either White or Medium Gray Mix

Make 1 body in either White or Medium Gray Mix

We’ll be working our way from the legs up for this part of the pattern, crocheting 2 separate legs and connecting them to form the body.

Leg 1

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Round 3: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc; rep from * 1 more time. [10 sts]

Round 4: *Sc in the next 4 sts, inc; rep from * 1 more time. [12 sts]

Round 5: Sc in each st around. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail. (This tail will be used when you connect the legs to form the body). Insert a removable stitch marker into the last st from Round 5; this is where you will make your first st when it’s time to connect the legs. Set leg 1 aside.

Leg 2 and the Body

For leg 2, repeat the steps for leg 1 but do not fasten off the yarn.

Now that you have 2 separate legs, we need to join them together. Begin your round on leg 2.

Round 6: Sc in the next 6 st . . .

Pick up leg 1 and make your next st where you placed the removable stitch marker.

. . . sc in the next 12 sts . . .

You should now be back to the place where leg 1 and leg 2 are joined; finish the round on leg 2.

. . . sc in the next 6 sts. [24 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 3 sts, inc; rep from * 5 more times. [30 sts]

Before we continue to the body, there’s one final step to joining the legs: You should notice that there is a small gap in between the legs. Take your tapestry needle and the medium tail that was left on leg 1 and stitch the gap closed, then secure the tail with a knot and trim the excess.

Back to the Body.

Rounds 8–10: Sc in each st around. [3 rounds @ 30 sts]

Round 11: *Sc in the next 3 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [24 sts]

Rounds 12–15: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 24 sts]

Round 16: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [18 sts]

Round 17: *Sc in the next st, dec; rep from * 5 more times. [12 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail of 20 to 22 inches for attaching the body to the cloud head, and set aside.

Arms

Make 2 in either White or Medium Gray Mix

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring. [6 sts]

Round 2: *Sc in the next 2 sts, inc in the next st; rep from * 1 more time. [8 sts]

Rounds 3–6: Sc in each st around. [4 rounds @ 8 sts]

Round 7: *Sc in the next 2 sts, dec; rep from * 1 more time. [6 sts]

Round 8: Sc in each st around. [6 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail. Using the handle end of your hook, add a small amount of stuffing to the bottom half of the arm. Then use a tapestry needle to weave the tail through the front loops of the last round. Pull the tail tight to close the arm but do not trim the tail; set aside.

Rainbow Scarf

Make 1

Ch 41 in Light Pink.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in each ch across. [40 sts]

On the last st of Row 1, change to Peach, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: Sc in each st across. [40 sts]

On the last st of Row 2, change to Cream, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: Sc in each st across. [40 sts]

On the last st of Row 3, change to Pale Green, ch 1 and turn.

Row 4: Sc in each st across. [40 sts]

On the last st of Row 4, change to Sky Blue, ch 1 and turn.

Row 5: Sc in each st across. [40 sts]

On the last st of Row 5, change to Lilac, ch 1 and turn.

Row 6: Sc in each st across. [40 sts]

Fasten off the Lilac yarn, leaving a short tail. Trim all the other colors of yarn, leaving short tails; these will become part of the fringe.

Rainbow Scarf Fringe

Cut 4 strands of each color of yarn, roughly 3 inches in length. Attach 2 of the strands to the corresponding color on each end of the scarf, using a lark’s head knot: Fold the strand of yarn in half and use your crochet hook to pull the halfway point of the yarn strand through the edge of the scarf to make a small loop. Pull the two tail ends of that yarn strand through the small loop, then pull them tight to knot the strand in place. Repeat with all the colors, then trim the fringe to the desired length.

Lightning and Rain Scarf

Make 1

Scarf

Ch 41 in Sky Blue.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in each ch across. [40 sts]

On the last st of Row 1, change to Royalty, ch 1 and turn.

Row 2: Sc in each st across. [40 sts]

On the last st of Row 2, change to Sky Blue, ch 1 and turn.

Row 3: Sc in each st across. [40 sts]

On the last st of Row 3, change to Royalty, ch 1 and turn.

Row 4: Sc in each st across. [40 sts]

On the last st of Row 4, change to Sky Blue, ch 1 and turn.

Row 5: Sc in each st across. [40 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a short tail. Weave in all the loose ends from the color changes before attaching the lightning bolt.

Lightning Bolt

Make 1 in Yellow

The lightning bolt is made by chaining at the end of certain rows and not working all the way back to the beginning of the row, making a zigzag.

Ch 4.

Row 1: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next 2 ch, ch 3 and turn. [3 sts]

Row 2: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, sc in the next st, ch 1 and turn. [3 sts]

Row 3: Sc in the next 3 sts, ch 3 and turn. [3 sts]

Row 4: Sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in the next ch, sc in the next st. [3 sts]

Fasten off the yarn, leaving a medium tail for attaching to the scarf. Use a tapestry needle to stitch the lightning bolt on one end of the scarf and set aside.

Assembly

Gather all the pieces, a tapestry needle, and a pair of scissors.

1.Stuff the body and legs fully before attaching to the cloud head at the center bottom.

2.Attach the arms on either side of the body, 2 rounds down from where the body meets the head. Angle the arms so they point slightly forward.

3.Find the center point between the eyes and count 4 rounds down to locate where the center of the smile should be and 3 rounds down for the center of where the frown should be. Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the mouth by making 2 diagonal lines that meet in the center to form a wide V for the smile or upside-down V for the frown.

4.Take a medium strand of Black yarn and use a tapestry needle to embroider the grumpy eyebrows for the Stormy Cloud Sprite. The eyebrow is a diagonal line that spans 2 rounds. The outside of the eyebrows should be around 3 sts up from the center of the eye and in line with the inside edge of the eye.

5.If you’d like to attach your scarf to your Cloud Sprite, choose which side of the scarf you want in front and place it so the bottom of the scarf lines up with where the legs meet the body. Then wrap the scarf up over the shoulder, around the back of the neck, around the front of the body, and back over the shoulder. If you’d like to tack it down, take a medium strand of yarn in the color of the edge of the scarf that is closest to the center of the body and use a tapestry needle to make 1 or 2 small stitches connecting the scarf to the body. Repeat the process on the back of the body and weave in the ends.

Resources

Amigurumi Patterns

Ribblr (Ribblr.com) is a fairly new pattern platform for crochet, knitting, and more. It is focused on eco-friendly and interactive patterns.

Amigurumi.com (Amigurumi.com) is one of the more widely known websites for amigurumi patterns, both free and paid. If you want to make it, there’s probably a pattern for it here.

Brick-and-Mortar Shops

If you’re like me and enjoy squishing your yarn and seeing it in person before committing to it, you can’t go wrong with either Michaels Craft Stores or JoAnn Fabric and Craft Stores. Both offer a large selection of top-name yarn brands as well as hooks and notions.

Hooks

Clover’s (Clover-USA.com ) ergonomic hooks are truly exceptional when it comes to comfort. They also carry a ton of crochet gadgets and accessories to try out.

Yarn

Herrschners (Herrschners.com) and Ben Franklin (BenFranklinOnline.com) are excellent websites for ordering yarn online. They have a wide variety at multiple price points, including most major brands as well as some types of yarn not found in brick-and-mortar shops.

Glossary

[ . . .]

Used at the end of a pattern line to indicate the total number of stitches in that round or row.

*

Generally, used to mark the beginning of a repetition of instructions. The pattern will indicate to repeat from *.

back loop

Located on a stitch’s head, the back of the V-like horizontal bar. Working in these loops is indicated by “back loop only” or the abbreviation “BLO.”

chain

A basic, foundational stitch for crochet. Abbreviated “ch.”

decrease

When two single crochet stitches are worked together. Abbreviated "dec."

fasten off

When the yarn is cut, leaving a long tail, at the end of a project or section of a project. The long tail is then pulled through the last stitch to prevent unraveling. (This tail is often then threaded onto a tapestry needle for weaving in the ends.)

front loop

Located on a stitch’s head, the front of the V-like horizontal bar. Working in these loops is indicated by “front loop only” or the abbreviation “FLO.”

gauge

The number of stitches and rows per inch (cm) required to obtain the desired final measurements.

increase

When two single crochet stitches are worked into the same stitch. Abbreviated "inc."

join yarn

Incorporating a new yarn (including a new color) into a project. Patterns will identify how to join yarn, which is normally by slip stitch.

last round

The round immediately preceding the round currently being worked.

next round

The round immediately following the round last worked.

repeat

Repeat instructions as indicated by the pattern. Abbreviated “rep.”

right side

The front, or more presentable, side of a crocheted fabric. Abbreviated “RS.”

The phrase “with RS facing” can mean that a piece should be held with the right side facing you or that the right sides of two pieces should be placed against each other.

round

A sequence of stitches worked around the edge of a circle (or in the round). Abbreviated “round” or “rounds” (plural).

row

A horizontal sequence of stitches.

seam

The process of joining crocheted pieces together using a tapestry needle or other method.

stitch marker

A small tool that can be placed on a live loop to prevent unraveling or on the crocheted fabric to identify a certain section of the work. For crocheting, you can only use stitch markers that are split or have a built-in clasp so they are removable.

swatch

A crocheted sample following the indicated stitch pattern, often used to determine gauge.

tail end

A loose strand of yarn, the bit hanging from the starting slip knot or from the final fasten off.

turn

Often seen at the end of a pattern row instruction, referring to flipping a project to then work back across the row from the other side (either the wrong side or the right side).

turning chain

Any number of chains used at the start of a new row or round.

weave in ends

Process of securing any loose ends by weaving them into the crocheted fabric for a clean final result.

working end

The strand of yarn being worked into the crocheted fabric (the non-loose end).

working yarn

The yarn used to work the crochet project.

wrong side

The back, or less presentable, side of a crocheted fabric. Abbreviated “WS.”

yarn over

The act of draping yarn over the crochet hook so it nestles in the throat of the hook.

Acknowledgments

The number of people I need to thank could fill a second book, so I will try to keep this short.

Thank you to the crochet community as a whole—you are the reason I’m inspired to create. Thank you to everyone at Callisto Media, especially my editor, Georgia.

Thank you to Jen Joyce for starting me on this path and to Shan for her hand-holding. To my Brochet Boys, Jon and Zac, for being so inspirational. To Peggy, without whom I might never make a decision.

To my parents, Denny and Liz: “Thank you” doesn’t seem like enough. Thank you to my brother, Steven, and his family, and to the family and friends who have encouraged me to live authentically and chase after my dreams.

Lastly, I would like to thank Billy for not destroying any of my amigurumi, even though I’m sure they look like very fun dog toys.

About the Author

Drew Hill is an amigurumi designer and fiber arts enthusiast. He learned to knit at the age of 10 and has been passionate about yarn ever since. At 17, Drew picked up a crochet hook for the first time and has rarely put it down since. After years of crocheting as a hobby, he decided to take things to the next level and opened Drewbie’s Zoo to sell finished amigurumi as well as offer both free and premium patterns.

A graduate of the University of Michigan with a BFA in theater design and production, Drew has worked as a costume designer and has found ways to sneak his fiber crafts into most productions. These days he spends his time in his craft dungeon, experimenting with new patterns. When he’s not working, Drew enjoys playing with his golden retriever, Billy, and eating delicious vegan food.

Website: DrewbiesZoo.com

Instagram: @drewbieszoo

TikTok: @drewbies.zoo