Big Book of Crochet: Complete Guide To Learn To Crochet From Beginner To Advanced
Author: Catherine Roy; Charlene Smith; Heather Irving; Vivian Ulrich; Cara Ronquillo; Rosemary Oles; Lucy Javier; Sonya Jenkins; Kimberly Pike
Date: 2019-09-25 22:00:00+00:00

Big Book of Crochet:

Complete Guide To Learn To Crochet From Beginner To Advanced

Disclamer: All photos used in this book, including the cover photo were made available under a Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.0 Generic and sourced from Flickr

Table of Content:

Book 1

Crochet Mandala:   5 Gorgeous Crochet Mandala Patterns

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Crochet Mandala Coaster

Chapter 2 – Crochet Mandala Placemat

Chapter 3 – Flower Mandala with Beads

Chapter 4 – Colorful Crochet Mandala

Chapter 5 – Crochet Mandala Doily

Conclusion

Book 2

Crochet Mandala. Book 2:

Awesome Crochet Mandala Patterns

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Spring Flower Crochet Mandala

Chapter 2 – Floral Mandala Doily

Chapter 3 – Large Crochet Mandala

Chapter 4 – Large Floral Mandala Doily

Chapter 5 – Gorgeous Crochet Mandala

Conclusion

Book 3

Tunisian Crochet: Learn Tunisian Crochet Just In 7 Days And Make 7 Easy and Cute Projects!

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Tunisian Crochet Infinity Scarf

Chapter 2 – Colorful Tunisian Crochet Mug/Cup Cozy

Chapter 3 – Spin Around Tunisian Dishcloth

Chapter 4 – Simple Tunisian Pillow Case

Chapter 5 – Diamond Tunisian Entrelac Blanket

Chapter 6 – Gorgeous Tunisian Bag

Chapter 7 – Lovely Glasses Case

Conclusion

Book 4

Crochet Stitches: Instructional Guide on Crochet Stitches

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Basic Crochet Stitches

Chapter 2 – Various Crochet Stitches

Chapter 3 – Tips and Tricks for Easier Crocheting

Conclusion

Book 5

Crochet Rugs:

Modern Crochet Rugs For Your House That You Can Crochet Yourself Easy!

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Simple Rectangular Crochet Rug

Chapter 2 – Upcycled T-shirt Rug

Chapter 3 – Spiral Crochet Rug

Chapter 4 – Doily Crochet Rug

Chapter 5 – Gorgeous Squared Rug

Conclusion

Book 6

Amigurumi Crochet:

Awesome Amigurumi Projects You Can Make for Your Kids

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Poliwag Pokemon Amigurumi

Chapter 2 – Amigurumi Puzzle Ball

Chapter 3 – Cutest Baby Seal Amigurumi

Chapter 4 – Koala Bear Amigurumi

Chapter 5 – Baby Beach Ball Amigurumi

Conclusion

Book 7

Crochet Kitchen Necessities:

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Crochet Watermelon Coasters

Chapter 2 – Elegant Crochet Mug Set

Chapter 3 – Wonderful Dishcloth/Scrubby

Chapter 4 – Crochet Camomile Potholder

Chapter 5 – Chevron Kitchen Towel

Chapter 6 – Crochet Spring Placemat

Conclusion

Book 8

Crochet Borders: Learn to Make Awesome Crochet Borders for Different Edgings

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Moss Stitch Border

Chapter 2 – Wave Border

Chapter 3 – Lacy Border

Chapter 4 – Shell Border

Chapter 5 – Lovely Wavy Border

Chapter 6 – Pom Pom Edging

Chapter 7 – Lovely Lace Border

Conclusion

Book 9

Crochet:

Kaleidoscope Projects: Shapes, Colours, Textures and Patterns To Inspire and Admire!

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Granny Kaleidoscope Blanket

Chapter 2 – Crochet Mandala Kaleidoscope

Chapter 3 – Kaleidoscope Coasters

Chapter 4 – Kaleidoscope Crochet Shawl

Chapter 5 – Kaleidoscope Crochet Pillowcase

Chapter 6 – Kaleidoscope Flower Potholder

Conclusion

Book 10

Bavarian Crochet:

Trendy Bavarian Projects With Easy and Clear Instructions

Introduction

Chapter 1 – Bavarian Crochet Blanket

Chapter 2 – Bavarian Crochet Pillowcase

Chapter 3 – Bavarian Crochet Potholders

Chapter 4 – Bavarian Baby Boots

Conclusion

Crochet Mandala:   5 Gorgeous Crochet Mandala Patterns

Introduction

In Indian culture, a mandala represents a spiritual and ritual symbol of universe. It is seen as a magic circle. However, mandalas are widely used for decorative purposes all over the world. Even if you think you don’t know what a mandala is, I’m sure that you have seen it many times without realizing what it was.

It is originally very colorful, as most of Indian culture symbols, and it is beautiful with many intricate details. Usually mandalas can be drawn on almost anything, from clothes, home décor, to plates and cups. They can be found anywhere, really. However, there is a different approach that might help you refine your crochet skills. It is crochet mandala. Of course, like many other things, you can crochet mandalas, but the best thing about it is that you can do free form, i.e. you can improvise all the way through.

If you know the basics of crochet and you have mastered the skills, and you know how and when to increase the number of stitches, creating your own, unique mandala will be a piece of cake.  Crocheted mandalas can be used in a variety of ways, from coasters, to clothing items, to blankets and rugs... You can make practically anything using the pattern you choose.

In this book, you will learn some of the ways you can make your own crochet mandalas. We will start from the simplest and gradually move to more complex projects, so that if you are following step by step instructions, you will be able to improve your skills and succeed in making these wonderful items.

Chapter 1 – Crochet Mandala Coaster

As I already said, we’re going to start from the simplest and gradually move to more complex projects. One of the simplest crochet mandala projects you could do is this one, the crochet mandala coaster. It is quite simple and easy to make, but the results are gorgeous. To start, you’re going to make a slipknot and chain six. You will join the end of the chain to the beginning by a slip stitch. Then, you’re going to chain three and you’re going to work dc stitches all around the ring. You will work 19 stitches in total, and you will count the chain three as the 20th.

Once you have made your 19 dc stitches, you will join them to the beginning of the round by slip stitching into the third chain of the chain three from the beginning of the round.For the second round, you’re going to chain three and work a dc stitch into the next stitch. Then you are going to chain two and repeat working two dc stitches separated by chain two. You won’t skip any of the stitches nor will you work two stitches in one stitch space. You will simply work one dc stitch in each stitch space.

When you finish the last couple of dc stitches, you’re going to chain two and slip stitch into the third chain of the chain three from the beginning of this round. For the third round, you are going to chain three, which will count as the fourth stitch of the last space, so, you’re going to work in the following chain space. You will work two dc stitches, chain two and then work another two dc stitches into the same chain space. You will repeat this all around. When you come to the last chain space, you will work two dc stitches, chain two and work one more dc stitch. Then, you will slip stitch into the third chain of the chain three from the beginning of the round.

For the fourth and final round, you will chain three and insert the hook into the next chain space, yarn over and pull through both loops, which will lower the chain. Then, you will work six dc stitches into the next space and slip stitch or sc in the space after that one. You will repeat this all around to create the gorgeous scalloped edges.

When you reach the last space, you will work five dc stitches instead of six, because we already have the chain three from the beginning of the round. So, you will slip stitch into the top of the chain three and yarn over and pull the yarn through again. Fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. And that’s it, pretty simple, right?

Chapter 2 – Crochet Mandala Placemat

I guess you never thought of crocheting a placemat before, did you? I think it is a brilliant idea. The materials are all natural, you can wash them, iron if necessary, and they are always as good as new, especially if you use quality yarn. For this project, just like with all others, you can use whichever yarn you want and the colors you want, just do not use the yarn that is too bulky because it may not turn out the way you want.

To start, you will need to make a slipknot and chain four. Then, you will join the last chain to the first one with a slip stitch to form a ring or you can make a magic ring and work into the magic ring. For the first round, you will chain one and work seven sc stitches. You will end the round by slip stitching into the top of the chain one from the beginning of the round. You will end every round in this manner. In the second round, you will again chain one (this will also be repeated for every round) and work double the number of stitches.

You will work two sc stitches into every stitch from the previous round. The chain one will count as one stitch, so you need to work one sc stitch into the same space and proceed with the increase. In the third round, you will work one sc stitch and one increase and repeat the pattern all around. By now, you probably know that an increase is when you work two sc stitches into one stitch.

In the fourth round, you will work two sc stitches and one increase and repeat until the end of the round. In the fifth round, you will work three sc stitches and an increase and repeat all around. In the sixth round, you will work four sc stitches and an increase and repeat the pattern all around. The pattern for the seventh round will be, you guessed it, five sc stitches and an increase.

The next step is to change colors. You will change colors and you will work a bit differently this round. Just like you’ve started every round so far, you will chain one and work a sc stitch in the following stitch space. Then, you will work a spike stitch. You basically need to insert your hook in the stitch space below your following stitch, so, in the round before and work a sc stitch into that stitch space. This will give the spike effect to your simple sc stitch pattern. So, you will continue working two sc stitches and one spike stitch all around the piece.

Then, you will continue working in the pattern you used to, with the increases and sc stitches. So, the ninth round will look like this: six sc stitches and an increase. You will work the following three rounds in this color and then you’re going to change colors. You will, again work the same pattern you did when you changed colors, i.e. two sc stitches, one spike stitch. Then, you’re going to work the following four rounds in this color and you’re going to change colors one last time. Just like you did previously, you will do the spike round this time also and work another four rounds with that same color.

The pattern is really simple. All you need to do is to increase from time to time and the best thing would be to continue the progression from the beginning all the way to the end to keep the circle in perfect circular shape. Once you finish with this color, do not fasten off, unless you like the way it is and you want to keep it that way, then you should fasten off the yarn.

You can do the edges a bit differently, like shells or scalloped edges, or you can make pompom edge like here. It is quite simple. All you need to do is make two puff stitches that you will fold over and connect and chain as many chain stitches you want in between the pompoms.

As for the size, it will depend mostly on the size of the hook and the thickness of the yarn, the thicker the yarn and the bigger the hook, the bigger the placemat will be. Or, you can work less rounds if the hook is bigger and the yarn is thicker than standard. However, if the yarn is thinner and the hook is smaller, you will probably need to add a couple of rounds more, to increase in size. You can change the colors as often as you want, you don’t have to follow the pattern in details.

Chapter 3 – Flower Mandala with Beads

For this little project, you’re going to need thinner yarn and a hook of a smaller size, but also some beads, exiting, right? As you can see, it looks gorgeous and I can’t wait to get started!

You can change colors the way you want or you can follow the color use from the photo, whatever you prefer. To start, you’re going to make a magic ring and work eight sc stitches, finish with a slip stitch. Then, for the second round, you’re going to chain three and work a dc stitch in the same space.  Then, you’re going to continue repeating chain two and two dc stitches in each of the stitches all around. To finish, chain two and slip stitch into the third chain from the beginning of the round. In the third round, you’re going to chain one and slip stitch into the chain space.

Then, chain four, work three tc stitches into the chain space, chain four and slip stitch the last chain into the first of the four to make a picot stitch, chain four and slip stitch into the chain space where you worked the tc stitches. At the end of the round, you’re going to slip stitch into the chain space to finish the petal of the flower and fasten off the yarn.

Join a different color at the top of one petal, in the picot stitch. Chain one that will count as a sc stitch and then chain eight. You will continue repeating the following: sc in the picot stitch, chain eight. When you finish the round, slip stitch into the first chain. For the fifth round, you’re going to chain one and work the following into the chain space: one sc, one hdc, ten dc, one hdc, one sc. Repeat throughout.

Slip stitch at the end and fasten off the yarn. Before you join the new color, you should make sure you have a lot of beads on your thread and keep them until the end round. Join the new color at the third dc stitch and chain one that will count as a sc stitch. Then, you’re going to chain three and slip stitch into the third chain from the hook to create a picot stitch.

Chain seven and work a sc into the eight dc stitch. Chain three, slip stitch into the first chain, chain seven and work a sc into the third dc stitch of the following petal. You will continue working this way all around. When you get to the last one, you will chain three and work a tc stitch into the first chain.

For the seventh round, you’re going to chain one that will count as a sc, work a picot stitch, chain eight and work a sc in the following chain loop. Repeat throughout. At the end of the round, you’re going to chain four and work a double triple crochet stitch. For the eighth round, you’re going to chain one as a sc, work a picot stitch and chain nine, sc in the following chain loop and repeat throughout.

To end the round, chain three and work a stitch where you’ll yarn over four times. For the ninth round, chain one as a sc, chain four, work a sc into the loop, chain ten, work a sc in the following loop, chain four, sc in the same loop, chain ten, etc. repeat throughout. Finish the round with a chain five and a stitch with four yarn-overs.

For the last round, chain one as a sc, work a double triple crochet stitch into the smaller loop, chain five and work a sc into the loop. Chain three and move five beads to your stitches, chain three more and work a sc into the loop. Chain five and work a double triple crochet stitch into the same loop.

Work a sc stitch into the big loop and repeat the steps you already did. Finish the round with a slip stitch to the chain one from the beginning of the round and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends and you’re done!

Chapter 4 – Colorful Crochet Mandala

This is a very simple but gorgeous crochet mandala. You can use it for any project you’d like, but you can also use it as a wall ornament or the circle part of the dream catcher. You can use any color you’d like, as long as you like what you see.

So, to begin, you will make a magic ring and work 16 sc stitches into the ring. Then, you will chain three and work a dc into the same stitch. You will continue working two dc stitches in each of the sc stitches. Join with a slip stitch to the third chain at the end. For the third round, you can change colors if you want. You will slip stitch to move your beginning in between the two dc stitches that were done in one stitch so that you make a V shape. You will chain three and work another dc stitch in the same space between the stitches. You will then repeat chain two, and work two dc stitches in between the two dc stitches that were done in one sc stitch.

When you get to the end of the round, chain two and slip stitch to the top of the chain. For the fourth round, you’re going to slip stitch into the chain space and change colors if you’d like. In this round, you’re going to work three dc stitches in every chain space, with chain three and two dc stitches in the first space. End with a slip stitch into the top of the chain.

For the sixth round, you’re going to slip stitch a couple of times until you get to the space between the sets of three dc stitches and change color. Work five chain stitches and a sc in the following space between the set of dc stitches, repeat throughout. End with a slip stitch to the first chain. Using the same color, slip stitch to move into the first loop. Chain one and work one sc, one hdc, five dc, one hdc, one sc all in the same chain loop. Do this for every loop and at the end, slip stitch in to the chain one from the beginning of the round, fasten off the yarn.

Join the new color in the third dc stitch of a petal. You will chain one that will count as a sc stitch and chain seven more stitches, work a sc in the following petal, the third dc stitch, and repeat. When you reach the end of the round, join with a slip stitch into the first chain. For the following round, you’re going to work nine sc stitches into every chain loop.

Finish with a slip stitch and fasten off the yarn. Join new color in the fifth sc of a loop. Work a chain one and a sc and chain nine, work a sc in the fifth sc stitch of the following loop, chain nine and repeat. Join with a slip stitch at the end of the round. For the following round, you’re going to work eleven sc stitches in each loop. Finish the loop with a slip stitch to the chain one. Fasten off the yarn.

You can leave it at this point as it is, or you can add the metal hoop to it to make a wall ornament. You will do this by adding a new color in the sixth sc stitch of a loop. And then you will chain one and work sc stitches around the hoop.

You will work around 16 sc stitches and then, you will work a sc in the sixth stitch of the following loop and around the hoop and then continue working sc stitches around your hoop. And there you have it; you very own hand-made dream catcher or a simple but beautiful wall ornament.

Chapter 5 – Crochet Mandala Doily

In this pattern, you will learn how to make a doily, but there is one great thing about it. You can use it to make anything you’d like, a sheer shirt, table cloth, pillow case, you name it. You will need to change the size of the hook and the thickness of the yarn, but you can use the pattern as it is. For the doily, however, you will need a smaller size hook, like 1.5 mm and a thinner yarn that is almost thread like.

To start, you need to chain ten stitches and slip stitch the last chain to the first one to create a ring. Then, you’re going to chain one and work 24 sc stitches into the ring. Finish with a slip stitch. For the second round, you will chain one that will count as a sc stitch and then five more chains for the separation.

You will skip one stitch and work a sc in the following one. You will continue working five chain stitches, skip one stitch and a sc in the following one all around. By the end of the round, you will have 12 loops. For the last loop, you will chain two and work a dc stitch into the chain one from the beginning of the round. This way, your start for the next round will be from the center of the loop.

Chain one that will count as a sc stitch and chain five more for separation. Work a sc stitch into the third chain stitch of the following loop. You will repeat this all around, i.e. you will work five chain stitches and a sc stitch into the third chain stitch of every loop. At the end of the round, you will do the same as you did previously, i.e. you will chain two and work a dc stitch into the chain one from the beginning of the round. To begin the fourth round, you will chain three that will count as a dc stitch and work one dc into the loop. Then, you will chain three and work three dc stitches in the following loop.

You will repeat this pattern until the end of the round. When you get to the end of the round, you will chain three and work one dc into the loop that has chain three and a dc stitch. Join with a slip stitch. For the fifth round, you will chain one that will count as a sc stitch and chain five more stitches.

Work a sc stitch into the middle chain stitch, chain five and work a sc stitch in the middle dc stitch. Repeat throughout the round. For the last loop, you will chain two and work a dc stitch into the first chain stitch from the beginning of the round. In the sixth round, you will chain one that will count as a sc stitch and work five more chain stitches and a sc in the third chain of the following loop.

You will repeat working five chain stitches and a sc in the third chain stitch. At the end of the round, you will work two chain stitches and a dc in the first chain. In the seventh round, you will chain four that will count as one treble crochet stitch (tc) and chain five more for the separation. Continue working tc stitches in the third chain of the loops and five chains for separation. At the end of the round, you will chain three and work a dc stitch into the fourth chain stitch from the beginning of the round.

In the eighth round, you will chain three and work a dc stitch into the same chain space. Then, you will work a dc stitch on top of the tc stitch and six dc stitches in the chain space. You will repeat working these dc stitches all around, one on top of the tc stitch and six in the chain spaces. At the end of the round, you will work four dc stitches in the same chain space as the chain three and dc stitch from the beginning of the round and slip stitch to the top of the chain.

In the ninth round, you will chain one, skip a stitch and work a sc in the following one. Then, you’re going to chain nine, skip four stitches and work a sc stitch in the fifth stitch. Skip one stitch and work a sc stitch in the following one. Repeat the sequence all around, i.e. chain nine and work a sc stitch in the fifth stitch, then skip one and work a sc in the following one.

To end this round, you will chain four and work a double triple crochet stitch, i.e. you’re going to yarn over three times before you insert the hook into the first chain stitch and pull through two loops each time you yarn over. For the tenth round, you will chain four that will count as one tc, and then chain two more stitches for separation. Work a tc stitch into the same chain space.Then, you will chain eleven stitches and work a tc into the fifth chain stitch in the following loop. Then, you’re going to chain two and work another tc stitch into the same chain stitch.

This is what you’re going to repeat all around: chain eleven, work a tc into the fifth chain, chain tow and work another tc stitch into the same chain.To finish the round, you will chain six and work another double triple crochet stitch into the fourth chain stitch.

In the 11th round, you will chain three that will count as one dc and work six more dc stitches in the same chain space. Then, you will work a sc into the following chain space and seven dc stitches in the next chain space. Then, you’re going to chain five and work another seven dc stitches in the same chain space. This is the pattern you’re going to repeat, i.e. sc stitch in the small loop and seven dc stitches in the following chain space, chain five, another seven dc stitches in the same chain space.

You will finish by working seven dc stitches in the last loop that already has seven dc stitches from the beginning of the round. You will then chain two and work a dc stitch into the third chain. In the 12th round, you will chain one that will count as a sc stitch and chain 12. Then, work a sc into the third chain of the chain five, repeat throughout.

Finish the round by chain 12 and slip stitch into the first chain. In the 13th round, you will chain one that will count as a sc and chain six more stitches, work a sc in the chain space, chain six, work another sc in the chain space, chain six and work a sc in the sc stitch from the previous round. You will repeat this throughout.

To finish the round, you will work two loops in the last loop and for the last loop, chain three and work a dc into the first chain from the beginning of the round. In the 14th round, you will chain one that counts as a sc and chain seven, work a sc into the following chain space and repeat throughout, chain seven, sc in the chain space. To finish the round, you’re going to chain three and work a tc into the first chain from the beginning of the round. In the 15th round, you will chain one as a sc, and chain seven and work a sc in the fourth chain stitch of the chain loop. Repeat throughout. Finish the round by chain three and a tc in the first chain from the beginning of the round.

In the 16th round, you’re going to chain one as a sc stitch and six more. Work a sc in the fourth chain and repeat chaining six and sc in the fourth chain of the loops throughout. Finish the round by chaining six and slip stitching into the first chain of the round.

In the 17th round, you’re going to slip stitch into the loop and chain three that will count as a dc. Then, work six more dc stitches into the same chain space. You will continue working seven dc stitches into each chain space throughout. Slip stitch into the third chain to finish the round.

In the 18th round, you’re going to chain one as a sc stitch and another 13 stitches and skip the first seven dc stitches and work a sc in the fourth dc stitch of the following set of dc stitches. Work another 13 chain stitches and a sc stitch in the space between the set of seven dc, skipping the half of the set where you start and the entire next one. Repeat throughout.

Finish the round by chain six and work a stitch in the first chain of the round. You will yarn over five times for this stitch and pull through two loops every time you yarn over. In the 19th round, you will chain four that will count as a tc, and chain 13 more stitches for separation. You will work a tc into the seventh chain of the following chain loop, chain two and work another tc stitch into the same chain stitch. Repeat throughout. To finish the round, work a tc into the same space where you chained four at the beginning of the round, chain two and slip stitch into the fourth chain.

In the 20th round, you’re going to slip stitch twice to get to the loop. Then, chain three and work seven dc stitches into the chain loop. You will then chain one, and then three more for the picot stitch, where you actually chain three and return to the first chain and slip stitch into that chain.

Then, chain one more and work another eight dc stitches in the same loop. Work one sc stitch in the small loop and repeat throughout. Finish the round with a sc in the small loop and a slip stitch into the third chain from the beginning of the round. Fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends.

Conclusion

Well, this was a great and colorful crochet journey. We have learned a lot about another culture, but we’ve also practiced so many crochet skills and techniques. I hope you enjoyed it as much as I have. The patterns are written from the easiest to more difficult, so that even if you had some difficulties with working in rounds or something similar, you had enough practice on the easier projects so that you could improve before the more complex projects, like the doily one. I just love the versatility of these patterns, and the way they can be used.

You can take one pattern and make so many things using just that one pattern, from coasters, placemats, rugs, clothing items, accessories, home décor, etc. Another thing I love about these is that you can use your yarn scraps. Because you change colors so often, these projects are ideal for using your leftover yarn.

I hoped you enjoyed working on these crochet projects.

Happy crocheting!

Crochet Mandala. Book 2:

Awesome Crochet Mandala Patterns

Introduction

So, you have decided to make some mandalas? Great! This crochet journey will take you to some new levels of cuteness. You will learn how to make some of your own crochet mandalas and the best thing is that you can use any yarn and any colors you would like.

The patterns are very simple and easy to do and even those that are a bit more challenging, you can make them quite easily because the instructions are clear and simple. I tried to make it as clear as it could be so that even those who are absolute beginners can make them and achieve that sense of success which will lead them to more crochet.I know when I was starting out with crochet, I had so many difficulties and I found it very hard to understand the symbols and what to do each time a symbol appears. That’s why you have written instructions and explanations for each pattern in this book.

And hopefully that’s why each of these patterns will be a success, even for beginners. As you may be aware, mandalas are trending and one can find them everywhere, from home décor to clothing to almost everything. Mandalas add style and femininity to a space. They have perfect lines, straight, wavy, dots, all kinds of shapes. However, all of those shapes and lines aren’t just jumbled together, but they are put together in a perfect sense and accordance. Now, when it comes to crochet, you will leave out the dots that are traditionally in mandalas, but all the other gorgeous elements can be made, as you will see.

The sense of achievement you get when you make your very own mandala is amazing and I think almost everyone who does DIY projects knows what I’m talking about. Crochet mandalas are no exception. These patterns are quite floral, as you will notice, but so are mandalas that you will find everywhere.

Some of the patterns here are done with yarns that are thinner and the hooks are also smaller size, but you can use any kind of yarn and size of hook you would like. The best results are if you use a bit thinner yarn and smaller size hook. The thing about the yarn is also that it should be tighter spun, or mercerized, so that each stitch is clearly seen.

However, if you prefer otherwise, you should do it that way. One should never discuss preferences, right? These crochet mandalas are lovely and I’m sure that you will love them at first sight. But the moment you finish each of these projects is priceless, you’ll see.

I wish you a lot of successful crochet projects. Happy crocheting!

Chapter 1 – Spring Flower Crochet Mandala

This pattern is fairly easy to follow; even absolute beginners can make this mandala. Just follow the instructions and you will most definitely succeed in making this gorgeous piece.

To start, you will need to make a slipknot and chain six stitches. Then, you will slip stitch the last chain stitch into the first one to create a ring. Then, you are going to chain one and work 16 single crochet (sc) stitches into the ring. You will finish the round by a slip stitch into the chain one you made at the beginning of the round.

Next, you will chain three that will count as a double crochet (dc) stitch and chain four more stitches. You will skip the next stitch and work a dc stitch into the following one. You will then repeat chain four and a dc in the second stitch all around.  At the end of the round, you will chain four and slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round. By the end of the round, you will have eight dc stitches and eight spaces between them. Slip stitch to the first loop. This is a good place to change your yarn if you’d like.

For the following round, you will chain three and work five more dc stitches in the same loop (chain space). You will work six dc stitches in each of the following seven loops and finish with a slip stitch to the chain three from the beginning of the round. For the following round, you will chain three and work five dc stitches, one in each of the stitches, and then chain three, work six dc stitches, chain three, etc.

Finish with a slip stitch in the third chain. For the next round, you will chain two and work five unfinished dc stitches, so that you have six loops on your hook. You will work these together by pulling the yarn through all of the loops. Then, you will chain ten stitches and do the same for the next six dc stitches. Work six unfinished dc stitches and work them together.

You will repeat chain ten and six dc stitches together all around. At the end of the round, chain ten and slip stitch to chain one on top of the first cluster worked together. For the next round, you will chain three. You can also change colors at this point. You will then work seven dc stitches in the chain loop, chain three and work another eight dc stitches in the same space. You will continue working eight dc stitches, chain three, eight dc in the same space all around. You will finish the round by a slip stitch to the top of the chain three.

For the following round, you will chain eight (three that will count as a dc and five for separation), work a dc stitch in the chain three space, then chain three and work another dc stitch in the same space. Then, you will chain five and work a dc stitch in between the clusters of eight dc stitches. You will then chain three and work another dc stitch in the same space. Continue working this way all around. Slip stitch to the third chain at the end of the round. In the following round, you will chain six and work three dc stitches in the chain three space that is between the dc stitches in the previous round. You will chain three and work another three dc stitches in the same space.

You will then chain three and work five dc stitches in the following chain three space. Continue working this way until the end of the round, where you will slip stitch into the third chain. Fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. Step aside and admire the beauty of its simplicity.

Chapter 2 – Floral Mandala Doily

The following pattern is not difficult at all, but the results are stunning. The doily actually consists of seven small floral crochet mandalas. They are quite easy to do and you can make them in any color you want and of course with thicker or thinner yarn. It’s all up to you.

To start, you will need to chain six and slip stitch the last stitch to the first one to make a ring. Then, you’re going to work three chain stitches that will count as a dc stitch, chain two more stitches and work another eleven dc stitches separated by chain two. At the end of the round, chain two and join with a slip stitch to the third chain from the beginning of the round. Then, for the second round, you will chain one that will count as a sc stitch and then chain two more stitches, work a sc in the same chain space, chain three and work a sc in the following chain space, chain two and work another sc in the same space.

Repeat throughout. For the third round you will chain three and work four more dc stitches into the same chain three space. Then, you will chain three and then work three picot stitches. You will make the picot stitch by chain three or four, whatever is your preference and slip stitch the last chain to the first one.

So, in this case, you will chain three for the separation and then chain three for the first picot stitch, slip stitch to the third chain from the hook, chain three again, slip stitch to the same stitch, chain three again and slip stitch and finally chain three for separation. Next, you will work five dc stitches in the following chain three space from the previous round and continue repeating the separation chains, picot stitches and five dc stitch clusters. At the end of the round, you will work the separation chain, as well as picot stitches and then work a dc stitch to the third chain from the beginning of the round.

Then, slip stitch to get to the top of the middle picot stitch and start your next round from there. For the following round, you will chain two, work a picot stitch, chain six, work a picot stitch and chain two. Slip stitch to the following middle picot stitch and continue repeating all around. When you reach the end of the round, slip stitch to the first chain and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends and continue working more of these.

You will want to connect them as you go, so that you finish without a fuss. Simply, when you get to the chain six in the last round, you will stop at the third chain, slip stitch to the third chain of the other flower and continue. That’s all you need to do.

When you connect all the seven pieces, you might want to add a nice edge to it by working two more rounds all around the doily. You will chain two, work a picot stitch, chain eight, work a picot stitch, chain two, slip stitch to the third of six chain stitches and repeat all around.

For the final round, you will start from the middle of chain eight and work eight chain stitches, a picot stitch, chain eight and slip stitch to the middle of the chain eight. Repeat all around. Of course, when you reach the end of the round, you will slip stitch to the first chain, fasten off the yarn and weave in all the ends.

Chapter 3 – Large Crochet Mandala

Of course, the size of this and any other mandala will depend on the size of the hook and the thickness of the yarn, but this mandala is quite big if you compare it to the previous two we’ve made. It is simple but gorgeous. I like the way it is easy to do and it looks amazing in the end.

So, to start, you will make a magic ring and chain three. Then, you will work nineteen dc stitches into the ring, so that together with the chain three it will total in 20 dc stitches. Finish the round by slip stitching into the third chain you made at the beginning of the round.

For the second round, you will chain three that will count as a dc and then two more chain stitches. Skip the following stitch and work a dc stitch in the next one. Continue working dc stitches in every second stitch, separating them with chain two. Finish the round with a slip stitch to the third chain from the beginning of the round.

For the third round, you will chain two, one chain being the substitute for a sc and the other to finish the round. Then, chain five stitches and work a sc in the dc stitch. You will continue repeating this all around, i.e. chain five, and work a sc in the dc stitch. At the end of the round, you will chain five and slip stitch to the second chain stitch. In the following round, slip stitch to get to the loop and chain three and work four more dc stitches.Then, you will chain two and work five dc stitches in the next loop. You will continue working five dc stitches in each loop separated by a chain two. At the end of the round, you will chain two and slip stitch to the third chain.

For the next round, you will slip stitch in between the dc stitches. Chain three that will count as one dc and work three more dc stitches between the dc stitches. Work three dc stitches in the chain space. You will continue working this way, i.e. one dc stitch between the dc stitches and three in the chain spaces. Finish with a slip stitch into the third chain. In the sixth round, you will chain three that will count as a dc stitch. Then, you are going to work three unfinished dc stitches, leaving the last loops on the hook. You will have four loops on your hook. You will pull the yarn through all those loops at once. You will then chain three and work a dc stitch into the middle dc stitch of the three dc you did in the chain space. You will chain two and work another dc stitch into the same space.

Chain three and work a dc stitch in the first stitch after the three dc cluster. Then, you will work four dc stitches together, just like you did at the beginning of the round and you will repeat this all around. At the end of the round, you will work the separation sequence finishing with chain three and slip stitch into the third chain. You will then slip stitch two times to the following chain space to start your next round from there.

In the seventh round, you will chain one that will count as a sc stitch and chain five more. You will then work a sc stitch into the following chain space, chain five and work a sc into the next chain space. Repeat throughout. At the end of the round, you will chain two and work a dc stitch into the first chain of the round.

For the eighth round, you will chain one as a sc stitch and another six chain stitches. Work a sc in the next loop and chain six. Repeat throughout. At the end of the round, chain three and work a tc (treble crochet) into the first chain of the round. For the following round, you will do the same as before, only that you will chain seven stitches between the sc stitches. At the end of the round, you will chain three and work a double triple crochet stitch (you will yarn over three times for this stitch) into the first chain.

In the next, tenth round, you will chain four that will count as a treble and chain four more for the separation. Work another tc stitch in the same space. You will then chain five and work a sc in the next loop. Chain seven and work a sc in the following space. Then chain five and work a tc in the next loop. Chain four and work another tc stitch in the same space. Repeat throughout. At the end of the round, you will chain five and slip stitch into the fourth chain.

In the eleventh round, you will slip stitch to move to the upside down triangle and chain four. Then, work two unfinished tc stitches into the same space. Pull the yarn through all three loops. Chain four and work another three tc stitches together in the same space.

Chain four and work another three tc stitches together in the same space. Repeat the same once more and chain five. Work a sc stitch in the next loop; skip the one right after the triangle. Chain five and work four groups of three tc together separated by chain four in the next triangle. You will repeat this all around. Finish with chain five slip stitched to the fourth chain from the beginning of the round.

For the following round, you will slip stitch to the next loop and chain four. Work another two tc stitches all together, chain four and work another three tc stitches together in the same space. Chain four and work another two sets of three tc together in the next chain space. Separate them by chain four. Repeat the same for the next chain four loop.

Then, chain six and work a sc stitch in the sc stitch you worked in the previous round. Chain six again and work the sequence of three tc stitches together, chain four, three tc together in each of the chain four spaces. Repeat all around. Finish the round with chain six slip stitched to the fourth chain from the beginning of the round.

You will then slip stitch to move to the chain four space. For the last round, you will work two sc stitches in the chain space, then work another sc stitch, chain three and work a picot stitch in the third sc stitch. Work another sc stitch and move to the following chain four loop where you will do the same. You will repeat this pattern for all the chain four loops.

In the other, chain six loops, you will work five sc stitches. Repeat all around. When you get to the end of the round, slip stitch into the first sc stitch and fasten off the yarn. You will then weave in the ends and you’re done! Gorgeous, isn’t it? You can change colors as you want or do it in one color, it’s up to you.

Chapter 4 – Large Floral Mandala Doily

In this chapter, you will learn how to make this wonderful mandala using, of course, your crochet hook, yarn and your skills. The pattern isn’t too difficult, just follow the instructions and you’ll be good.

To start, you will need to make a magic ring and chain four that will count as one tc stitch. Then, you will work 17 tc stitches into the magic ring, and between each tc stitch you will chain one to separate them. So, after you chain four, you will chain one, work a tc stitch, chain one, tc stitch and so on. When you get to the end of the round, you will chain one and slip stitch to the fourth chain. You will slip stitch to the following chain space and start your second round from there.

You will chain four that equals one tc stitch and work two more tc stitches in the same space. You will continue working three tc stitches in each chain space all around. To finish the round, you will slip stitch to the top of the chain you mad at the beginning of the round.

For the third round, you will chain four as a tc and work two unfinished tc stitches in the next two stitches. You will pull the yarn through all three loops and chain five. You will continue working three tc stitches together all around, separated by chain five. At the end of the round, you will chain five and slip stitch to the top of the chain.

For the fourth round, you will slip stitch to the next chain loop and chain four. Work another five tc stitches in the same space. You will chain five and work four tc stitches in the next loop. Chain five and work four tc stitches in the next loop. Chain five and work six tc stitches in the following loop.

So, the pattern is six tc stitches in one loop, four tc stitches in the next two loops all separated by chain five. Finish the round by slip stitching chain five to the top of the chain you did at the beginning of the round.For the next round, chain four and work five tc stitches, one in each stitch. Chain eight, skip the chain space and work nine tc stitches in the next chain space. Skip the next chain space, chain eight and work six tc stitches in the six tc stitches from the previous round.

Repeat all around. At the end of the round, you will chain eight and work a tc in the chain four from the beginning of the round.You will work five tc stitches in the tc stitches from the previous round. Chain eight and work nine sc stitches in the nine tc stitches from the previous round. Chain eight and work six tc stitches. Repeat all around. Finish the round with a chain nine and work three stitches in the new round, one in each tc stitch.

Chain five and work three more tc stitches. Chain nine and work nine sc stitches in tc nine you did before. Chain nine and work three tc, chain five, three tc stitches, like you did at the beginning of the round. Repeat all around. Finish the round with chain nine and work three tc stitches in the ones from the previous round.

Chain five and work a tc stitch in the chain space, chain five and work another tc stitch in the same space. Chain five and work three tc stitches in the tc stitches from the previous round. Chain nine, skip the first sc stitch and work seven sc stitches. Chain nine and repeat the pattern all around. To finish the round, you will chain ten and work three tc stitches in the ones from the last round.

After you have worked three tc stitches, you will chain five and work a tc stitch in the first chain space. Then, you will chain five and work a tc in the next chain space, chain five and work another tc stitch in the same space. You will then chain five and work a tc in the third chain space.

Then, you will chain five and work three tc stitches in the following three stitches, one in each stitch. You will then chain ten, skip one sc stitch and work five sc stitches in the sc stitches from previous round. Chain ten and repeat all around. To finish the round, you will chain ten and work the three tc stitches in the ones from before.

Then, you will chain five and work a tc stitch in the first chain space. Chain five and work a tc stitch in the second loop. In the third, you will chain five and work a tc, chain five and work another tc stitch. Chain five and work tc stitch in the fourth loop, chain five, work a tc stitch in the fifth loop. Chain five and work the three tc stitches. You will then chain ten and skipping the first sc stitch, work three sc stitches, chain ten and repeat all around.

To finish the round, you will chain eleven and work the three tc stitches. You will then chain five and work a tc stitch in the first loop. You will repeat chain five and tc stitch in every loop, except for the fourth one. You will work two tc stitches in that loop, separated by chain five. When you finish the loops, you will chain five and work the three tc stitches.

Then, you will chain eleven and work one sc stitch in the middle. Chain eleven and repeat all around. To finish the round, you will chain eleven and work the three tc stitches. Then continue working chain five and tc stitch in each chain space, except for the fifth loop. There, you will work two tc stitches separated by chain five. You will have eleven chain loops in total. Then, chain five and work the three tc stitches.

Without making any chains, you will then work the next three tc stitches. And continue working in the loops. Repeat all around. To finish the round, you will finish the three tc stitches and slip stitch to the first tc stitch. Then, you will chain one that will count as a sc stitch and work two more sc stitches, one in each stitch. When you get to the loops, you will work three sc stitches, chain five and three more sc stitches in each loop. You will work sc stitches in the tc stitches. Work this way all around.

When you get to the finish, you will slip stitch to the chain one from the beginning of the round and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends and you’re done! What a lovely project, isn’t it?

Chapter 5 – Gorgeous Crochet Mandala

This project is smaller and you can use it to make something bigger, just join several motifs together and see how it looks. It is quite simple and almost anyone can do it.

To start, you will chain ten and join the ends with a slip stitch to make a ring. Then, you will chain one and work 18 sc stitches in the ring. Finish the round with a slip stitch to the first sc. For the second round, you will chain four and work two tc in each of the next two stitches. Chain three and work another cluster of three tc stitches. Repeat all around. Finish the round with a chain three slip stitched to the fourth chain.

Begin the next round with chain five and work seven sc stitches in the next chain space. Repeat all around. Finish with a slip stitch. In the fifth round, you will chain five and work one tc, one chain four times in the chain space. Chain three and work one tc, one chain five times in the next chain space.

Then you will chain four and in the tc stitches you will work the following: three tc, chain three, four tc and then you will chain five and repeat five more times. Finish the round by chain five slip stitched to the top of the chain. In the next round, you will chain one and work four sc stitches, chain nine and work 15 sc stitches

These should fit the tc stitches and the first chain space. Repeat five more times. Finish the round with a slip stitch. For the next round, you will chain one, work a sc. Then, work seven tc stitches in the chain nine loop, chain four to make the picot stitch. If you don’t know how to make a picot stitch, it’s easy; you chain four and slip stitch to the first chain. Then you will work another seven tc stitches in the same chain loop.

You will then work a sc in the fifth stitch and work the following sequence four times in the middle stitch of the sc loop: chain one, one tc, chain four to make a picot stitch. When you finish the sequence, you will skip four stitches and work a sc in the fifth one. Repeat this all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch to the beginning of the round and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends and you’re done!

Conclusion

So, we’ve come to the end of this short, but sweet book of crochet mandala patterns. The crochet journey was maybe tedious for some, I guess beginners, but I hope that most of you enjoyed making these wonderful projects.

As you could probably see, crocheting mandalas isn’t too difficult, but one has to follow instructions. You have to have that exact number of stitches so that in the end your mandala is symmetrical and just beautiful. Of course, it isn’t the end of the world if you make a mistake or two, but you should be as precise as you can be.

Once you make these projects, you can maybe try some other and then you can actually try to invent your own pattern because, why not? All of the patterns came from someone’s idea of making something and they tried it and here you have them. It just takes one step. You were able to make all of these and some more, why not mix up some patterns and make your own ‘Frankenstein’ mandala pattern. I would love to see that!

I am sure that anyone who has at least a little bit of creativity and inventiveness in them, they can create new wonderful patterns. Of course, you have to know the basics, but that’s easy. You can learn the basics in no time. One more fact about crochet: The more projects you do, easier you will recognize and copy patterns that you come across.

I hope that you had a lot of fun making these items and that they will find their place and purpose in your home and possibly wardrobe. If not, gift them to someone, I’m sure someone will find them beautiful and worth having. Happy crocheting!

Tunisian Crochet: Learn Tunisian Crochet Just In 7 Days And Make 7 Easy and Cute Projects!

Introduction

You are probably pretty aware that Tunisian crochet is a bit different than the regular crochet and therefore you bought this book to learn it. I wish you a very warm welcome into a somewhat different crochet technique than what you’re used to. Here, you will learn the very basics of Tunisian crochet and you will have seven different adorable Tunisian crochet projects to master your newly gained skills.

So, first of all, you will need yarn, of course, but you will need hooks that are used specially for Tunisian crochet. These hooks are the same as crochet hooks only that they are much longer. In fact, they are mostly as long as long knitting needles. The reason for this is the fact that you will need to make many loops and keep them on your hook until you reach the end of the row.

This would be impossible with regular crochet hooks, especially if you’re making an afghan or a baby blanket. These hooks have a crochet hook of a certain size on one side and a blocker at the other end so that the loops don’t slip off the hook. If you are working in rounds, you can use special double-ended crochet hooks that look just like double-ended needles, only that they have crochet hooks on both ends. You can also use circular crochet hooks that are basically just like circular knitting needles. The only difference again is that they have hooks on both ends.

These are also useful for bigger projects since the cord can hold pretty large number of loops. Either way, you will need special tools for these projects. However, the investment of buying those will pay off once you see how wonderful items that are made using this technique are.  Tunisian crochet is also known as afghan crochet, shepherd’s knitting and railroad knitting. It gives your projects unique appearance and texture. It may be seen as a combination of knitting and crocheting.

You will be using a hook, but at the same time you will be working with many loops, just like when you’re knittingTherefore it is a perfect combination for those people who love crochet and knitting. However, the results will be like no other. These projects will have a completely different appearance and texture from both crochet and knitting.

Basic crochet stitches that you must know to master Tunisian crochet are definitely chain stitch and single crochet stitch. You need chain stitch so that you can start your project and the other, single crochet stitch is what you will be using most of the time. You basically pull the yarn through the chain stitches and leave them on the hook. Then, when you reach the end of the row, you will work first the last loop and then you will continue by pulling the yarn through two loops. That’s the essence of the Tunisian crochet.

However, there are so many stitches and different variations to Tunisian crochet that it is an area of crafts that you can explore for years. Some of those stitches are:

- Twisted Tunisian stitches
- Tunisian purl stitch
- Tunisian diagonal stitch
- Tunisian double crochet stitch
- Tunisian entrelac crochet, etc.

We will go through some of them here in our projects, but you can also explore on your own. You will be thrilled, trust me. A great tip for Tunisian crochet is to increase the size of the hooks. If you’re yarn package indicates that you should be using a 3 mm hook, you should use a 4 or 4.5 mm hook, just so that you keep the tension a bit looser because it will be easier for you to work.

Another reason why you shouldn’t crochet tight is because your project will most likely curl if you do. If you crochet with loose tension, your project still might curl, but you will deal with it easier. Some of the projects require special hooks; however, there are also projects that you can make using a regular crochet hook. Those projects work with small numbers of loops, which makes it possible to work that way.

Once we got through the basics, we can start with the projects. Don’t worry if you still don’t understand all the steps of the Tunisian crochet. The instructions given to each of the projects are clear and simplified, so that you can learn as you go.

Let’s grab our hooks and start crocheting! Good luck!

Chapter 1 – Tunisian Crochet Infinity Scarf

Our first project using Tunisian crochet is a simple one. However, it is very beautiful and elegant and it is suitable for all generations. This scarf is gorgeous and I’m sure you’ll enjoy making it.

You will need a thinner yarn that is suitable for 3 mm hook. However, you will use 4 or 4.5 mm hook to make the loops looser and lacier. It is quite important to keep the loops loose enough so that the scarf is soft and light to the touch. To start, you will make a slipknot and chain 45 stitches. Then, you will work from the second chain stitch from the hook. So, you will skip the first chain stitch and insert the hook into the second chain stitch.

You will yarn over and pull the yarn through the stitch. Normally, you would then yarn over and pull the yarn through both loops, but in Tunisian crochet, you don’t do that. Instead, you leave the loops on the hook until you finish the round. So, you will continue doing this all across the row. You will need to pull the hook a little bit so that the loops are a bit looser than in regular crochet. At the end of the row, you will have 45 loops on your hook. When you reach the end of the row, it is time to finish that first row by taking off the stitches.

You will do that the following way: to ensure that the edge is nice and straight, you will yarn over and pull through the last loop on the hook. Then, you will yarn over and pull through two loops. You will continue yarning over and pulling through two loops until you reach the end of the row.

When you get to the last two loops, you will yarn over and pull through two and leave the one remaining loop as your first loop for the following row. In the second row, you will be working through the middle of your vertical posts. If you look at your stitches, you will notice that yarn goes from front to back vertically. You need to insert your hook from front to back through the loop created by those posts.

This way you will get the Tunisian knit stitch. So, once you insert your hook in between those posts, you will yarn over and pull the yarn through. You will not finish the stitch, but you will leave the loops on the hook, as you did previously. You will repeat this all the way to the end of the row, until you reach the last stitch. There, you will look at the edge and insert the hook below the two posts at the edge, yarn over and pull the yarn through.

The second part of this second row is the same as in the previous. You will pull the yarn through one loop to make sure the edge is straight and then work through two loops. For the third row, you will pull up three more loops as you did in the previous row. So, once you have four loops on the hook, you will yarn over and skip the following stitch. Pull up a loop from the next stitch, yarn over, skip the next stitch and pull up the loop from the next stitch. You will continue doing this until you have four stitches left to work.

When you get to the last four stitches, you will pull up the loops from them as you did in the previous row. To finish the row, you will do the same you did for the previous two rows; you pull through the last loop and then work through two loops.

For the fourth row, you will repeat what you did in the third. You pull up three more loops so that you have four loops on your hook and then you start with yarn overs. So, you will yarn over and pull up a loop from the next stitch. You won’t be working in the large loops that are made by yarn overs, so that will be a signal for you to yarn over. You will repeat this row for as many times you’d like or until your scarf reaches the desirable length. Then, you will work three rows of knit stitch, without yarn overs.

When you get to the yarn over part, you will insert the hook through and pull up the yarn. So in the end, you will have 45 loops again. Work three rows of Tunisian knit stitch. When you’re done, you can connect the ends together. You can do it either with a tapestry needle or with a hook. If you choose to use a hook, you will need to slip stitch all across. And you’re done. You can twist one side of the scarf so that you have both patterns visible or you can connect them straight. Whatever you choose, I’m sure it will be great!

Chapter 2 – Colorful Tunisian Crochet Mug/Cup Cozy

There are so many names for these items. Some people call them cozies, some call them warmers, but no matter what you call them, they are quite useful and adorable, you must admit. To create these, you will need a double-ended crochet hook and some matching size yarns, preferably one that is multicolor, so that you get that colorful effect and one solid color yarn.

To start, you’re going to make a slipknot using your solid color yarn and chain as many stitches as you want. The best would be if you would measure your cup or mug and chain that many stitches. For a regular size coffee cup, you can chain 20 stitches and then starting from the second chain form the hook, you will pull up loops from each chain stitch.

You will end up having 20 loops on your hook. Then, you will move your loops to the other side of the double-ended hook and join the multicolored or hombre yarn. Using your second yarn, you’re going to pull through the first loop and chain one. Then, you’re going to work the second part of the first row. You’re going to pull through two loops until you’re left with one loop on the hook.

Then, you’re going to change yarn to solid color one. Leave the multicolored yarn in the back and insert the hook through the front vertical post and pull up a loop using the solid color yarn. You will repeat this all across the row. When you get to the end, you’re going to insert the hook below the two loops and pull up a loop there. You will have 20 loops on your hook each time you reach the end of the row.

Then, using your multicolored yarn, you’re going to first pull the yarn through one loop and then through two loops. You’re going to pull through two loops all across the row. That is the pattern you’re going to follow until your piece reaches the width of your cup or mug. When you have the length you want, fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail. You can use that tail to sew the sides together or you can connect them using a crochet hook and a slip stitch. It is a small, yet cute project, isn’t it?

An idea came to my mind and I’d love to share it with you. You see, you can make an adorable coin purse using this same pattern. The difference is in sewing or connecting the sides. So, instead of connecting the beginning and the end, you will connect the sides and sew a zipper at the top and you have a coin purse. Or, you can leave a bit of a flap at the top of the purse and add a small clasp for opening the purse. Cute, isn’t it?

Chapter 3 – Spin Around Tunisian Dishcloth

This dishcloth is very interesting and fun to work and you have to admit that it looks very cute. You can make this in no time. All you need is two contrasting colors yarns and a Tunisian hook. You can use a regular hook if it is plain and with no wider or narrower parts because you need to enable your stitches to move.

You can make this dishcloth in two ways. One is to chain as many chain stitches you need and sew it together at the end. The other is to chain as many chains as needed with a scrap yarn and work in the spine of the chain so that you can later unravel it and connect the ends with a Kitchener stitch. It is entirely up to you.

It is easier to sew it together at the end, but it might be visible. However, if you don’t mind that, just sew it together and that’s it. To start, you will chain 20 with the scrap yarn or you can chain fifteen with one of your yarns, whatever you choose. If you want to use the Kitchener stitch to connect then use your yarn to pick up 15 loops from the back of the chain, i.e. from the spine.

In this case you want to make sure you know which side is the tail side, so tie a slipknot there. Finish the first row by pulling the yarn through one loop and then pull the yarn through two loops all the way to the end of the row. Then, for the first row, you’re going to pick up two more loops with a total of three loops on the hook and finish them first by pulling the yarn through one and then through two all the way to the end.

You’re going to finish every row this way. In the third row, you’re going to pick up four more loops, having a total of five on the hook, and finish the row. In the fourth row, you’re going to pick up six loops, having seven in total and finish the row. In the fifth row, you’re going to pick up eight loops and finish them. In the sixth row, you’re going to pick up ten loops and finish them.

In the seventh row, pick up twelve loops and finish the row until you have two loops on the hook. You’re going to change colors there by pulling the new color yarn through both loops and using the second color yarn, in the eighth row, you’re going to pick up fourteen loops, having a total of 15 on the hook and finish them. You’re going to repeat this for ten more times.

In the 12th part of the dishcloth, you’re going to do all the same you did before, except there’s no color change in the seventh row. You’re going to do the right-to-left part of the eighth row using the same color and leave a long tail if you’re going to connect them using the Kitchener stitch. If not, finish the eighth row as you would normally and leave a long tail.

Using a tapestry needle, sew the ends together, as well as the middle circle. Weave in the ends and you’re done! If you’re going to connect the ends using the Kitchener stitch, you’re going to unravel the chain you made with scrap yarn and insert a knitting needle through the vertical posts as you unravel it.

Then you’re going to weave the ends using a tapestry needle in a way that you first insert the needle through the first stitch of the beginning part as if you were to purl and as if you were to knit in the back needle.

Then, you repeat the following: you go as if to knit on the front needle and take that loop off, then as if purl the next stitch on the same needle. Then you go as if to purl on the first stitch of the back needle, take the stitch off and go as if knit the next stitch on the same needle. Tighten the yarn. Repeat this until you finish weaving the ends.

This project is really simple, regardless of how you decide to finish it and the results are amazing, right?

Chapter 4 – Simple Tunisian Pillow Case

This is a simple, yet beautiful pillow case done using Tunisian crochet technique. It is one of those projects where everyone will think that it is store bought and quite expensive. That makes a perfect excuse for starting this project, especially if you’re making it as a gift for someone you care about.

To begin, you’re going to chain as many chain stitches you want your pillow case to be wide. You can measure it with a measuring tape. Bear in mind that the pattern is stretchy vertically, but not as much horizontally. So, once you have made your starting chain, you will work in the back loops of the chain.

You will pick up loops on your crochet hook and work your way back by pulling the yarn through one loops first and then through two loops until you get to the end of the row. As you have gathered it from all these projects, the second part of the row is returning by pulling the yarn through one loop and then through two.

So, the way you’re going to work this pattern is the following: in the second row, you’re going to pick up loops in between the stitches, i.e. you’re going to start from the space between the second and third stitch and pull up a loop. Continue pulling up loops between the stitches. You need to have the same number of stitches as you have begun with in order to have straight edges. So, you will pull up a loop from the last stitch too.

The second part, i.e. taking off the loops, is done as usual. In the third row, you’re going to pull up loops starting from the space between the first and the second stitch and you will keep the number of stitches same as you did previously, i.e. you won’t be pulling up a loop in the last space. This will ensure straight edges. If you were to work both in the first and the last space then your piece would widen and you wouldn’t get the square you need.

So, you will continue repeating the second and the third row over and over again until your piece reaches the desired length. Finish off by slip stitching the edge and you’re done. Make another piece that has the same number of stitches and same number of rows and connect them. You can connect them by sewing them together, joining them using a crochet hook either with a slip stitch or with single crochet stitch. You can also add some edging if you’d like, but to me, just connecting the two pieces makes this pillow case amazing.

Chapter 5 – Diamond Tunisian Entrelac Blanket

This is one of those projects that you cannot resist trying even though they are quite demanding. The pattern may get a bit difficult to follow, but if you read the instructions carefully, there won’t be any problems. You can work with as many colors you’d like or you can work with only two colors, it is up to your preference. Just make sure all the yarn is of the same type and thickness.

So, to begin, you’re going to chain multiples of ten and add two more chain stitches. Each set of ten chain stitches will create one square of the first row of the blanket. Ideally, you should make a small sample so that you can see how many stitches you will actually need.

If you’re making a baby blanket, you would need around 130-140 + 2 chain stitches to begin. Then, you’re going to make the triangle that comes at the corner of the item. To do this, you’re going to insert your hook in the back loop and pull up a loop and then pull the yarn through both those loops. Then, you’re going to pull up a loop from the second or the edge loop you pulled up earlier and pull up another from the back loop of the next chain.

Finish the row by pulling through two loops twice. In the next row, pull up loop from the front post of the stitch, from the edge loop and add one more from the back loop of the next chain stitch. You will repeat this until you have seven loops on your hook. So, each time, you pull up loops from all the stitches you’ve worked and add one more from the back loop of the next chain stitch. And once you pulled up the loops, you finish the row by pulling the yarn through two loops until you are left with one loop on the hook.

Once you’re done with this triangle and you will be when you have seven loops on your hook, you need to bind off. You will do this by inserting the hook through the front post, pulling the yarn through it and then through the loop on the hook. This will enable the access to the following section of the chain.The last binding off will be through the back loop of the chain from which you pulled out the seventh loop.

For the second and every other square in this row, you’re going to do the following: You’re going to pull up six loops from the back loops of your chain. This will give you a total of seven loops on your hook. Finish the row by pulling through two loops until you have only one loop on your hook. For the next row, you’re going to pull up loops from the front posts of the stitches you just did.Stop once you have six loops on your hook because the seventh loop on your hook will be pulled up from the back loop of the next chain and then you will finish the row by pulling the yarn through two loops until you have only one on your hook.

As you probably figured out yourself you will finish each row by pulling the yarn through two loops until you have only one loop on your hook. You’re going to work five rows in total. So, keep an eye for that. You can count the number of vertical posts which equals number of rows done. Once you finish the fifth row, you’re going to bind off. The last bind off will be done in the last chain that was picked up. The loop that you’re left with is the first one of your next square.

You will repeat this for each set of ten chain stitches across the row. When you reach the end, you will need to make one more triangle. When you’re done with your squares, you should have six more chain stitches left. You’re going to pull up loops from the back loops of those stitches and work your way back. Then, you’re going to pull up six loops, leaving out the last stitch and finish the row. Then, pick up five loops, then four, three, two and finally one loop. You finish all of these rows in the same manner.

Once you pick up the last loop, pull the yarn through those two loops and fasten off the yarn. Join the new color yarn and start a row of squares using that color. For the second row of squares, you’re going to join the second color at the top of the beginning triangle. You’re going to make a slipknot and pull it through the first bind off of the right triangle.

Then, you’re going to pull up six loops on the hook and your seventh will be the last bind off stitch of the triangle. For every next row, you’re going to pick up six loops and the seventh will be the edge of the square from the previous row of squares. Once you have done five rows, you’re going to bind off.The last bind off will be placed in the corner of the square from the previous row. Repeat it all across. In this row of squares there will be no half-squares/triangles, so you will do the same thing all across the row. When you finish the last square, bind off and fasten off the yarn. The last bind off will be in the top corner of the left triangle. Then, you’re going to join a new color, or you can join the first color, whatever you choose.

You’re going to join the new color in the same stitch you joined the second one. Here, you’re going to make another triangle. You will do the same you did in the first row, only that now you continue to the work that is done. So, first, you’re going to chain one and work a sc stitch in the same stitch. Then pick up a loop from the sc stitch and another one from the next join with the square from the second row. Work your way back.

Then pick up four loops, and continue increasing until you have seven loops on your hook. This is when you’re going to finish the triangle by binding off and move to the next square. You’re going to work the squares just like you did in the previous row of squares. When you reach the last part, which is another triangle, you’re going to repeat what you did in the first row.You’re going to pick up seven loops and finish them. Then you’re going to pick up six loops and finish the row. And you’re going to decrease the number of loops gradually one by one until you are left with only one. You’re going to fasten off the yarn.

Then, you’re going to join new color or the second one if you choose to make it in two colors and you’re going to repeat the second row of squares.Basically, you’re going to repeat second and third row of squares over and over again until your piece reaches the desired length. You can fill up the edges so that they are nice and straight, but I think that this blanket of ours, as it is, with zigzag at the top and the bottom, is wonderful.

Chapter 6 – Gorgeous Tunisian Bag

This pattern is really simple. Anyone with basic crochet skills can make it. And everyone will be in disbelief that it is something you made yourself. It is really beautiful and you can make it using any colors you’d like.

You’re going to need t-shirt yarn and hook that is a bit bigger than required. To begin, you’re going to chain ten. Then, you’re going to pull up loops starting from the second chain from the hook. You will have a total of ten loops on the hook. Finish the row by pulling through one loop and then through two loops until you have only one loop on the hook. For the second and every other row, you will work in the front vertical posts. You will pull up loops and the last one will be below the two loops created by pulling the yarn through one loop.

Finish the same way you did the first row. You will complete a total of 31 rows. Fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. Then, using different color yarns make three more of the same pieces which you will connect into a bag. First, you’re going to make the edges of each of the rectangular pieces. You will take different color yarn and work single crochet stitches all around the rectangular piece.

You will work three sc stitches in the corner stitches. Repeat this for all four rectangular pieces. Fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. Then, you can start assembling the bag. You will place them as shown in the picture and using your tapestry needle, you’re going to connect them in a way that you like. You can connect them so that the V shapes are visible or you can hide the V shapes, it is up to you.

Start connecting the x part of the bottom of the bag and then connect the sides. Once you finish connecting the sides, you can work on the edges once more. You will take the same color of yarn that you did the edges before and work another row of sc stitches around the top of the bag.

You will work two sc stitches in the corners and the rest will be just sc stitches. Then add the handles and you’re done! It is very simple to make, but looks very stylish and modern. Enjoy it!

Chapter 7 – Lovely Glasses Case

Everyone has a pair of glasses that are way too expensive to afford scratches on them. Why not give them scratch free case that will keep them safe in your bag? This pattern is quite simple and you can make it in no time. By now, you have mastered Tunisian crochet skills and you can do this project easily.

You can once again use yarn type and yarn color to your preference. Just don’t use the chunky yarn type. I mean you can use that type of yarn with Tunisian crochet, but for this particular project, it wouldn’t be a good choice. The best would be to use DK cotton yarn, but you can use acrylic or a blend too.

To begin, you’re going to chain 20 stitches. This is for one side only. If you need wider case, chain more stitches. Pick up loops from the back loop of the chain and work the reverse pass as you would normally. You pull the yarn through one loop and then through two until you have only one loop on the hook.

You will do the simple Tunisian stitch all the time, meaning that you will pull up the loops from the vertical front posts and work the reverse pass as described. The difference and what makes this project special is the way you will transition to the next color. So, using your first color, you will work first three rows. Then, you’re going to pull up loops using that first color, but, you’re going to work the reverse pass using the next color.

This will give your work some kind of a gradient transition from one color to the other. You will join the new color right when you were supposed to pull through only one loop. This is where the reverse pass begins, so it is logical that you introduce a new color there. Then, using your second color, you’re going to work two rows and pick up loops for the third one. There, you will join the third color and work two rows.

In the third row, you’re going to pull up loops using this color and finish the row using the first color. You will repeat this pattern until the case reaches the desired length. At the end, you’re going to work a couple of rows more of the base color, which is your first color.

Once you finish that, you’re going to bind off. You will bind off like you did previously. You will insert the hook in the vertical post and pull the yarn through and through the loop on the hook. You will repeat this until you finish binding off the piece. Remember, you need to make one more for the back of the case. When you finish the other piece, you will sew them together using a tapestry needle. You will sew first one long side, then one short and finally the other long side.

Then, you will need to sew the button and work on the strap for closing the case. You can either make the strap right on the case or make it separately and sew it on later. Either way, just chain whatever number of chains seems appropriate for the strap length. Pick up loops from the chain, work reverse pass and repeat once or twice more. When you finish, chain six and slip stitch to the other corner of the short side to make a loop for the button.

Sew it in the middle of the inner back side of the case, making sure that it reaches the button you sewed on. Or you can sew the strap and adjust the button accordingly. Whatever works best for you.

You can make this case for your phone. It doesn’t have to be a case for glasses. Just chain and measure the width of your phone. It is a lovely little project that will have adorable outcome. Why not use it for different purposes? Good luck!

Conclusion

What are your thought on the Tunisian crochet? Is it too difficult? When I was first learning it, I was a bit intimidated, but after a project or two, you will get more confidence and the projects will keep on coming. The more you practice the better you get. It is the law of life, right?

I hope that you enjoyed the book and that you successfully finished all of the projects that were included in the book. I also hope that you were able to learn something new from this book and that you will make some of these projects multiple times.

Once you get the hang of it, you can adjust them according to your preferences and needs. It is all about creating and making something that you and your loved ones will love and enjoy having. I wish you numerous successful crochet projects in the future.

Happy crocheting!

Crochet Stitches: Instructional Guide on Crochet Stitches

Introduction

The primary motive why people go into beekeeping is because of the honey harvest. If however, this is your motive, then you should understand that the bees are even more important than the honey itself. This is because we will have no honey harvest at all without the bees.

Welcome to the basics of crochet! Here, in this book, you will get an insight in all of the things you need to know about the hobby of crochet. The book gives detailed explanations and instructions, as well as images of all the steps you need to know to become successful crocheter. So, no matter if you are just a beginner or you have some experience in crochet, you will learn some new things from this book and you will definitely improve your crochet skills once you go through this book and practice all the presented steps.

Having a skill like this one is very valuable because it helps relieve the stress, you will relax and create something and the best side effect of crochet is that you will have gorgeous finished products that you can use or you can gift them to your friends and family or someone in need. There are no possible negative outcomes, so there is no reason for you not to try to learn how to crochet.

In this book, you will first learn how to do the most basic stitches and then you will move forward to the more complex, but still doable stitches. The basic stitches are basic because they are the most commonly used one and using only those stitches can lead to extraordinary resulting products. However, there are times when the patterns require some other kinds of stitches.

Therefore, we have presented some of the most commonly used special stitches, like shell stitches, puff stitch, star stitch, V stitches, etc. You will learn how easy it is to crochet almost any of these stitches and incorporate them in your existing patterns. There are also many advices along the way on how to get crocheting easier for you.

Also, you will find some tips and tricks that you would probably learn over the course of years of crocheting, but it is way better when someone tells you their mistakes in advance so that you don’t make them.

I hope that you will find crochet very satisfying because of all the relaxation and the outcome it gives. Also, I hope that once you learn and acquire the skills, you will use them throughout your life because skills like these don’t disappear, with years, you just feel the urge to learn more things like these because they help you cope with so many things in your life that the experience itself is priceless.

I wish you all happy crocheting!

Chapter 1 – Basic Crochet Stitches

Now that you have the tools and some ideas for crochet projects and you may have found some patterns to try out, you may come across many things that you don’t understand. There are some steps to the pattern that you are not familiar with and that’s okay. You will learn them, here and now. Let’s first learn the basics of crochet.

Making a Slipknot

To start almost any crochet or knitting project, you will need to make a slipknot. You will need to follow several very easy steps. First, you will take the yarn and choose where you want the slipknot to be placed. Some patterns require leaving a very long tail, because of casting on stitches or maybe because you may need it to sew together some pieces, etc.You should definitely check the pattern to see how long the tail should be.

So, once you decide that, you will make a loop with your right-hand yarn that is attached to the yarn ball on top of the tail part of the yarn. You will hold the loop between your index finger and your thumb of your left hand and take the yarn with your right hand and put it through the loop creating another loop that was pulled through the first one. Lastly, you will hold the knot and pull the second loop until it tightens the knot. This way, you have made a slipknot that is counted as the first stitch in knitting.

You can tighten it once you insert a needle through the loop by pulling the tail. Another way to do this is by taking the yarn and wrapping it around your index finger twice. Then you will take the lower loop and pull it over the upper loop. Now, all you have to do is to take the lower loop (that used to be the upper) and place it on your needle. Tighten the slipknot once you insert the needle by pulling either sides of the yarn.

Chain Stitch (CH)

Now that you have made a slipknot, you will need to chain some stitches. The process is very easy, but you need to be relaxed and not to pull the yarn too tight, because it will only become more difficult for you to work the stitches. However, you don’t want to loosen the yarn too much because your work will lose the structure. Keep it tight, but not too tight. You’ll understand once you get started. You can practice by chaining hundreds of stitches, it’s not that hard, nor time consuming as one would think.

So, to make a chain stitch, you will first need to make a slipknot and then, holding your crochet hook with a slipknot in your right hand, you will take the yarn using the hook, not from your tail, but from the rest of the yarn ball and pull it through the loop. You will repeat this as many times the pattern calls for. As I said, it is very easy and basic.

Single Crochet Stitch (SC)

Once you have your chain, you can start working different stitches into the chain. One of the basic stitches is single crochet stitch. It is also very easy to do, just follow the instructions.

To make this stitch, you will insert the hook into the center of the following working chain and take the yarn using your hook (the process known as yarn over or YO) and pull the yarn through the chain stitch. This way, you will have two loops on your hook. Next, you will yarn over and pull the yarn through both of the loops, creating single crochet stitch. Repeat these steps as many times your pattern calls for.

Double Crochet Stitch (DC)

To make the double crochet stitch, you need to yarn over and then insert the hook into the center of the following working chain and yarn over again. Then, you will pull the yarn through the chain stitch. You will have three loops on your hook.  You will yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops, leaving only two loops on your hook. Then, you will yarn over and pull through both of the loops, creating a double crochet stitch. You will repeat these steps as many times it is required in your pattern.

Half-double Crochet Stitch (HDC)

To make this stitch, you need to yarn over and insert the hook into the center of the following working chain stitch and yarn over again. Next, you will pull the yarn through the chain stitch, which will result in having three loops on your hook. Next, you will yarn over and pull the yarn through all three loops, creating one half-double crochet stitch. Of course, you will repeat these steps as many times it is necessary.

Triple Crochet Stitch (TC)

To make this stitch, you will first yarn over two times. Then, you will insert the hook into the center of the following working chain stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through the chain stitch. You will have four loops on your hook. Next, you will yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops, leaving three loops in total on the hook

Then, you will yarn over and pull through the next two loops, leaving two loops on the hook. And finally, you will yarn over once more and pull the yarn through the both of the loops, creating a triple crochet stitch or a treble. You will repeat these steps as many times is necessary to complete the pattern.

If you followed the instructions carefully, you probably have succeeded in creating the stitches. However, that is just a beginning. Those stitches are just the basics, the ones that will be helpful in your later work. But, there are many more that you will find to be very exciting and fun to make. And you will learn them here. Continue reading and creating…

Chapter 2 – Various Crochet Stitches

Many patterns will call for stitches other than the basic single, double, half-double or triple crochet. You will find in many pattern instructions different abbreviations and different stitches that are necessary to make. Here are some of the many crochet stitches you may learn on your crochet journey.

Shell Stitch

When it comes to the shell stitch, there are many variations and the pattern will usually give instructions on how to make that exact shell stitch, but if you are feeling really creative and want to create something on your own and would like to use shell stitch, but you don’t know how to do it, here’s how!

To create the shell stitch, you will make multiple chains of six stitches or if you want to use the stitch as an edging, you will count in sixes for the number of shells you will make and you will add one more chain. The first two chains from the hook will count as one double crochet (dc). Then, you will work five dc into the third chain

The set of five dc actually creates the shell effect. To secure the first shell, you will skip two chain stitches and work a single crochet (sc) into the chain stitch after. So, to complete the row, you will repeat the following: skip two stitches, work five dc into the third stitch, skip two stitches, and work a sc into the sixth stitch. You will repeat this until the end of the row, ending with a sc. If you work only one row of sc, it would make a wonderful edging, but you can also work in multiple rows and create something bigger, like a blanket or a pillow case.

Treble Shell Stitch

This one is very similar to the previous one, only that the shells are much bigger and bolder. It can also be used for borders or crocheted in rows for some other purposes. To create this stitch, you will work in series of eight stitches for each shell and you are going to add three more stitches.

So, in the first row, you will work a half-double crochet stitch (hdc) into the third chain from the hook. And then you will repeat the following for every shell you will make: skip three chain stitches and work seven triple crochet stitches (tc) in the fourth chain stitch. Then, you will skip the following three stitches and work an hdc stitch into the eighth chain stitch. You will repeat this as many times is required.

For the second row, you will chain four and turn your work. The chain four will count as the first tc in this row. You will work three more tc into the same stitch to create half of the shell. Then, you will work a hdc stitch into the center of the shell from the previous row.Next, you will work seven tc into the next hdc from the previous row.

You will repeat this until the end of the row, i.e. you will crochet a dc in the center of a shell form the previous row and a shell of seven tc into the hdc stitch from the previous row.When you reach the end of the row, you will work a hdc into the last shell and work four tc into the last hdc from the previous row to create another half of the shell.

In the third row, you will chain two and turn your work. Then, you will work a hdc in the first stitch. Then, you will repeat the following: Work seven tc into the next hdc and a hdc into the center of the shell. Then, you will finish the row by working seven tc into the last hdc stitch and a hdc into the chain from the beginning of the previous round. Now, to make this a pattern, you will repeat the second and the third row until you reach the desired length.

Lace Shell Stitch

Another variation of shell stitch that can be used for many different things is this one. It is nice and airy and it will look adorable on anything. You will need series of eight stitches, plus three more. So, if you are starting off with a chain, chain multiples of eight stitches and add three more. If you are changing your pattern into shell stitches, then count the stitches in multiples of eight. To make this stitch, you will need to repeat the following for each of the shells: one tc, chain one, one tc, chain one, one tc, chain one, one tc. All of these are worked into the same stitch to create the shell effect. So, to make shell pattern, you will chain in multiples of eight, plus three more stitches.

Then, you will crochet a hdc stitch into the third chain from the hook. Then, you will skip three chains and work the lace shell into the fourth stitch. Then, you will skip the following three chain stitches and work a hdc stitch into the eighth chain stitch. You will repeat this all across the row. In the second row, you will chain four and turn your work. The chain will count as one tc. You will work one more tc into the same stitch, chain one and work another tc into the same stitch.

Then, you will repeat working hdc stitches in the center of the shells from the previous row and you will work shells into hdc stitches from the previous row.When you reach the end of the row, you will crochet a hdc into the center of the last shell and then work one tc, chain one and then work two more tc into the same stitch. In the third row, you will chain two and turn your work. You will crochet a hdc into the first stitch. And then, you will repeat what you did in the previous row, i.e. you will work lace shells into the hdc stitches and hdc stitches into the center of each lace shell from the previous row.

You will end the row with a lace shell in the last hdc and work a hdc stitch into the chain from the beginning of the previous row. You will repeat the second and the third row until you reach the desired length.

Puff Stitch

This stitch is the one that looks great but feels even better. Of course, there are lots of variations of the stitch, but whatever you make, it will look gorgeous. The pattern is perfect for blankets and scarves, but you are free to use it for whatever your crocheting hands lead you to.

To make a simple puff stitch, you will work incomplete hdc stitches. This means that you will yarn over, insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull the yarn through the stitch and instead of completing the stitch by pulling the yarn through all three loops; you will yarn over again and insert the hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull the yarn through the stitch.

You will do this once more, so that you will have seven loops of yarn on your hook. Then you will carefully yarn over and pull the yarn through all seven loops. To secure the stitch, you will need to chain one. To make a pattern out of puff stitch, you will need to chain multiples of two and add four more stitches. In the first row, you will work a puff stitch into the fourth chain from the hook. Then, you will chain one and skip the next chain stitch. Then, you will repeat the following pattern until the end of the row: puff stitch, chain one, and skip the following chain stitch. You should finish the row with a puff stitch.

Then, you will chain three and turn your work. Next, you will work a puff stitch in each chain one space and chain one in between the stitches. You will do this across the row, ending the row with a puff stitch in the chain from the beginning of the previous row. You will repeat this process until you reach the desired length.

Basic V Stitch

The V stitch is a very basic stitch that has an amazing texture and is very easy and quick to make. It basically consists of two dc stitches, separated by a chain stitch.

To make a pattern out of the V stitch, you will need to chain multiples of three and add seven more stitches. To make a V stitch, you need to work one dc stitch, one chain stitch, and one more dc stitch into the same chain stitch. So, after you crochet the foundation chain, you will work a dc stitch into the fourth chain stitch from the hook. The three chains will count as the first dc in the row and one chain as a separation. So, to continue, you will chain one and skip the next chain.

Then, you will work one dc in the next chain stitch, chain one and another dc into the same chain and skip the next two chains. You will repeat this until you reach the end of the row. When you reach the end of the row, you will chain one, skip the next two chain stitches and work one dc in each of the following two chain stitches. Then, you will chain three and turn your work.

The chain will count as the first dc in the row. Then you will work a dc into the next dc stitch. Next, you will chain one and work one V stitch into each of the V stitches from the previous row. Then, you will chain one, skip the next chain stitch and work one dc stitch into each of the last two dc stitches.You will repeat the second row until you reach the desired length.

V Stitch Bricks

This stitch is a blend between a V stitch and granny square pattern. It is done in rows, like V stitch would generally be done; the only difference is that it is done in the spaces between the Vs, and not on top of each other.

So, to make a pattern using this combination, you will chain in multiples of four plus nine more stitches. First, you will work a dc stitch into the fourth chain stitch from the hook. Then, you will repeat the following: chain one, skip the following three chain stitches, work a V stitch in the fourth chain stitch. You will repeat this until you reach the end of the row. Then, you will chain one, skip three chains, and work one dc into each of the last two chain stitches.

In the second row, you will chain two and turn. Then, you will work dc stitch into the next dc, chain three and skip the first chain and the first V stitch. Then, you will work V stitches in the spaces between the V stitches from the previous row and chain one between the V stitches. You will repeat this until the end of the row. Then, you will crochet one more V stitch, chain three, skip the next V stitch, work one dc in the next dc and one dc in the chain from the beginning of the previous row.

In the third row, you will chain two and turn around the work. Then, you will work a dc in the next dc, chain one and work a V stitch in the following space. Then, you will repeat the following: chain one, crochet a V stitch in the space between the V stitches from the previous row. You will do this until you reach the end of the row. When you reach the end, you will chain one and work a dc stitch into the next dc and one dc in the chain from the beginning of the row. To continue, you will repeat the second and the third row until your piece reaches the desired length.

Moss Stitch

This stitch is also known as granite stitch. It is very easy to do, as it requires you to know only the chain stitch and the single crochet stitch.

To begin, you will need to crochet an odd number of chain stitches. You can place a marker in the first chain stitch from the hook, just to keep track of where you need to work your stitches. Once you get the hang of it, you can stop using the marker. So, having placed the marker, you can continue with the work. You will crochet a sc stitch into the third chain from the hook. Then, you will repeat the following sequence: chain one, skip the following chain, work a sc stitch into the next chain stitch. Repeat until the end of the row.

Chain one and turn your work. In the second row, you will work sc stitches into each of the chain one spaces and separate them by chain one. You will repeat this until the end of the row, where you will work a sc stitch into the chain stitch where you have placed the marker, removing it before crocheting the stitch. Then, you will chain one and turn your work. For all the remaining rows, you will repeat the same as in the second row, only that you will crochet your last sc into the chain from the previous row. You will repeat this until your piece reaches the desired length.

Easy Mesh Stitch

This stitch is also very easy to do. It requires only the knowledge of basic stitches, but the results are amazing.

To begin, you will need to crochet an odd number of chain stitches. In the first row, you will crochet a sc stitch into the third chain stitch from the hook. Then, you will repeat the following sequence: chain one, skip the following chain, sc into the next chain stitch. You will repeat this until the end of the row. Then, you will chain one and turn. In the second row, you will crochet a sc into the first sc from the previous row and skip the firs chain stitch.

Then, you will repeat the following: sc in each of the following sc stitches from the previous row, separating them with a chain one and skipping the chains from the previous row. End this row with a sc stitch into the last sc stitch. Then, you will chain one and turn your work. Repeat the second row until the piece reaches the desired length.

Star Stitch

This stitch has many other names, but the most commonly used is this one. It is a wonderful looking stitch that isn’t too difficult to do. It has a thick texture and it looks adorable.

To make this pattern, you need to crochet an odd number of chain stitches. You will then insert the hook into the second chain stitch and pull the yarn through the stitch. Do not finish the sc stitch, but insert the hook into the next chain stitch and pull the yarn through the stitch. Do this until you have six loops on your hook.

Then, you will yarn over and pull the yarn through all six loops. To finish the first star, you need to chain one. Then, you will make the second star. You will insert the hook into the ‘eye’ you just made with the chain one and pull the yarn though, leaving two loops on the hook. Then, you will insert the hook between the last two points of the first star and pull the yarn through.

You will have three loops now. Then, you will insert the hook in the same place you did for the last spike of your first star and pull the yarn through. Then, you will insert the hook into the next chain and pull the loop through and do that for the following chain stitch too.Once you have six loops on your hook, you will finish the second star by yarn over and pulling the yarn through all six loops and chain one to finish the second star.

Repeat these steps for the rest of the stars in the row and finish it with a hdc stitch. Then, you will work a row of hdc stitches. You will do this by chain two, and work two hdc stitches into each ‘eye’ of the star. At the end of the row, work a hdc into the last stitch. The next row will be star row, which will begin with chain three and working the unfinished stitches from the second chain. Once you have six loops on your hook, you will finish the star. Continue the pattern until your piece reaches the desired length.

Chapter 3 – Tips and Tricks for Easier Crocheting

There are many helpful tips and tricks one can learn over the years. These are the ones I would like to share with you. Turn your skeins into balls of yarn – This way, your yarn will not tangle easily and you will have more control over the tension. Place the yarn properly - If your yarn is placed in the right position, it will less unlikely unravel and get tangled. You can also keep your yarn in a bag or a bowl of some kind.

Choose the right hook – If you are a beginner, you may have difficulties in choosing the right hook. Choose the hook according to your yarn and the pattern you are following. Do not change hooks in the middle of your work – This will result in very sloppy and ugly looking end product. Go back and fix it – If you realize that you have made a mistake earlier, unravel the yarn and crochet from that point on. It’s not a big deal.

Have crochet friends – These will, like knitting friends, help you learn and prosper, plus, you can hang out and crochet together. Experiment freely – Don’t be afraid to experiment. Change colors, patterns, yarns and hooks and enjoy the process. The results are amazing. Consistency is the key – Be consistent in your projects. If you are using one size of a hook, keep it. If you are using one technique, use it throughout. Do not change those major things because you may mess up the entire project.

Conclusion

So, you have reached the end of this short, but very informative book. I hope that you have benefited from this book and that you have learned many things you otherwise wouldn’t. You had the opportunity to learn both the most basic and the more special, but still commonly used stitches, as well as so many tips and tricks that will help you crochet easier.

The good thing about these stitches is that I have provided a way for you to incorporate them into your existing patters, either as edgings or inside the pattern, you could all several rows of this pattern if the number of stitches is fitting the needs of the stitch pattern. There are also instructions how to make samples or something even bigger, like an afghan or some clothing items.

The best benefit you could have from this book is to try to create your own patterns. You have learned how many stitches each of the special stitches need, so that you can adjust the existing patterns or make your own. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if you would, using this book, create completely new, revolutionary patterns that would be widely used and copied? I think that would be amazing, especially for a beginner to have such success.

But, no matter what, I hope that you have had success in following the instructions presented here and that you will continue crocheting in the future. I wish you all many successful crocheted projects in the future!

Crochet Rugs:

Modern Crochet Rugs For Your House That You Can Crochet Yourself Easy!

Introduction

I guess you were looking for some new projects to make your living space more beautiful. The projects you will find inside this e-book are definitely the ones that will improve and give your house a look of a home. You know, any house can be a home if you give it your touch. The rugs that came out of your own hands using your skills and creativity are exactly what your house needs.

As you are probably aware, you can make practically everything using a crochet hook and some yarn. Why not make a rug? Some of the patterns are very, very simple and you could probably make them in matter of minutes or hours if you are not that skillful. Others are a bit more challenging, but if you are following the instructions that are written here, you will have no problems at all in making whatever projects you choose.

The instructions are beginner friendly since there are no abbreviations and everything is clear. You will know exactly where to work each of your stitches and chains. There is also a lot of repetition, just like with many other crochet/knitting patterns, so, all you have to do is follow the instructions and you’ll be good to go. What is amazing about these is that you can make one or two for your friends or family and give them as a gift for moving in or for some other occasion. I’m sure everyone will love and appreciate the care and the effort that is put in these.

You will invest some time and money but you will get a wonderful gift for the people you love and care about. And they will 100% love the present. That’s all what matters, right? You can choose whatever yarn you prefer, but the best would be something that is tightly spun, so that it doesn’t get ruined fast, or you can use t-shirt yarn of different thickness.

I think t-shirt yarn is perfect for such projects, but you can try and make some out of wool. Of course, you should use the right size hook according to the thickness of your yarn. There are also some tips in the patterns, so I hope you’ll succeed in making these.

Happy crocheting!

Chapter 1 – Simple Rectangular Crochet Rug

This pattern is absolutely gorgeous and you can work with any yarn, hook size you want. Of course, the color choice is also yours. So, if you are one of those people that like to choose every detail, this project might be for you. You can make it as big or as small as you’d like. There are no strict rules for making most of these.

So, to start, you will chain multiples of three and add four more chain stitches. In this case chain eighteen and add four more. These four additional chains will count as one dc and a chain of separation. Work one dc in the fifth chain from the hook. Work a dc stitch in the chain stitch after the next one. Chain one and work another in the same space. You will skip the following chain and work another V stitch in the next chain. A V stitch is actually two dc stitches in the same place, separated by a chain one. You will continue repeating this until the end of the row.

When you reach the end, you will chain two and work two V stitches in the last chain. Chain two and work another V stitch in the same space. Then, you will work V stitches in all the chain stitches where you worked V stitches on the other side of the chain. Finish the round with chain two for corner and two V stitches at the shorter side.

Chain two and slip stitch to the top of the chain from the beginning of the round. Change the color and chain four. Three will count as a dc stitch and one to separate the stitches. Work another dc stitch in the same chain space.

From now on, you will work V stitches in the chain one spaces, i.e. each new V stitch will be on top of the V stitches from before. When you get to the corner, you will work one V stitch in the chain two space, then you will chain two and work another V stitch in the same space. And continue all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch.

Change the color and work V stitches all around. You will basically do the same for each following round. Chain four, work another dc in the same space. Work V stitches in each V stitch from the previous round. Work two V stitches separated by chain two for each corner and that’s it! It is very simple. Change colors as you wish and you’ll get it done! You can crochet it as big as you want. Just add more rounds and that’s it. When you’re done, just fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. Enjoy your new crochet rug!

Chapter 2 – Upcycled T-shirt Rug

This pattern is also very simple and easy to do. All you need is a couple of old t-shirts that you would throw in the garbage anyway. Why not use them to make something else instead? So, to make your t-shirt yarn, you will cut the t-shirts into stripes of 2 to 3 cm in width. Then, you will make holes at each end of each stripe.

You will connect the stripes by pulling one end of one stripe through the hole of another and then pull the other end of the stripe through the end you pulled through the other stripe. Pull the stripes to make them more yarn like.  You can also cut the t-shirts in spiral so that there aren’t as much of those joins. Or you can buy such yarn. Of course, you will need a larger size of a crochet hook to fit the thickness of the yarn.

To start, you will chain as many stitches as you want your rug to be wide. Then, chain one more and work a sc stitch in the second stitch from the hook. Continue working sc stitches in all chain stitches. When you finish the row, you will turn around and chain one. Work sc stitches all across the row.

You will repeat this row until your piece reaches the desired length. When you finish the piece, fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. To make the fringe across the short sides of the rug, you will cut the yarn into 10 to 12 cm stripes. You will fold one in half, pull the loop part through a loop at the end of the piece and pull the ends through the loop. Repeat all across the shorter sides of the rug. And that’s it, simple, right?

Chapter 3 – Spiral Crochet Rug

This pattern might be a bit more difficult, but it is still very easy and beginner friendly. It does look like it is difficult to do, but once you get to learn the pattern that will be repeated over and over again, you’ll see that it is simple. As with the previous patterns, you can use whichever yarn you want and the crochet hook that fits the yarn, of course. The size will depend on the thickness of the yarn and the size of the hook, but it is all up to you.

To begin, you will make a magic ring, chain three that will count as a dc and then work 11 more dc stitches in the ring. If you don’t know how to make a magic ring, you can find some tutorials or you can chain three and work 11 dc stitches in the first chain you made and slip stitch into the last chain stitch you made when you finish the round.

The three chains will count as first dc stitch. For the second round, you will chain three and repeat the following pattern: work a dc stitch, chain one and another dc stitch in the same stitch and one dc in the following stitch. Slip stitch to the top of the chain. You will have 18 dc stitches and 6 chains at the end of the round. For the third round, you will chain three and repeat the following pattern: work two dc stitches in the next stitch, two dc stitches in the chain one space, chain two, skip the next stitch and work a dc in the next stitch.

In all of these rounds, your chain three will count as the last one dc in one stitch so that the last stitch you need to work is the one you need to skip, so, that’s what you do. You will skip the last stitch and slip stitch in the chain three. If you want, you can put stitch markers in your chains so that you can keep track where to increase. In your fourth round, you will slip stitch into the next stitch and then chain three. You will then repeat the following pattern: work a dc stitch in the following two stitches and two dc stitches in the next stitch, then work two dc stitches in the chain two space, then chain two, skip the next stitch and work a dc in the next one.

Finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round. For the fifth round, you will slip stitch into the next stitch and chain three. Then, you will repeat the following sequence: work a dc in each of the following four stitches, then two dc in the fifth, work two dc stitches in the chain two space, chain two, skip the following stitch and work a dc in the next one.

Finish the round with a slip stitch to the top of the chain three. By the end of this round, you will have 66 stitches, i.e. 54 dc stitches and 6 chain two. In the sixth round, you will sip stitch into the next stitch and chain three. Then, you will repeat the following sequence: work a dc stitch in each of the next four stitches, chain one, skip the next stitch, work a dc in the next stitch, two dc stitches in the next one, two dc in the chain two space, chain two, skip the next stitch and work a dc stitch in the next one.

Repeat this all around and finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round. In the seventh round, you will again slip stitch into the next stitch and chain three. Then, you will repeat the following: work a dc stitch in each of the following three stitches, work a dc stitch in the chain one space, chain one and kip the next stitch, work a dc stitch in each of the next three stitches, two dc stitches in the following one, two in the chain two space, chain two and skip the next stitch, work a dc stitch in the next one.

Finish the round with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain three. At the end of this round, you will have 72 dc stitches, 6 chain two, 6 chain one, which is 90 in total. For the eighth round, you will slip stitch into the next stitch and chain three. Then, you will repeat the following pattern: work a dc stitch in each of the following three stitches, one dc stitch in the chain one space, chain one and skip the next stitch, then work a dc stitch in each of the following five stitches, two in the next one, and two in the chain two space.

Then you will chain two and skip the next stitch, and work a dc stitch in the next one. Finish the round with a slip stitch to the top of the chain three. In the ninth round, you will slip stitch into the next stitch and chain three. Then, you will repeat the following pattern: work a dc stitch in each of the following three stitches, one dc in the chain one space, chain one and skip the next stitch.

Then work a dc stitch in each of the following five stitches, chain one and skip the next stitch. Then work a dc stitch in the next stitch, two dc stitches in the next one, two in the chain two space, chain two and skip the next stitch, and finally work a dc in the next stitch. End the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three. By the end of this round, you will have a total of 114 stitches, 90 dc stitches, six chain two, and 12 chain one.

For the tenth round, you will again slip stitch into the next stitch and chain three. Then repeat the following: work a dc stitch in each of the following three stitches, and one in the chain one space, then chain one and skip the next stitch. Then, you will repeat dc in the next five stitches (the fifth dc will be done in the chain one space), chain one and skip next stitch as many times as needed until there are only four stitches left before the next chain two space. You will then work dc in the next three stitches, two dc in the next one and two in the chain two space.

Then, you will chain two, skip the next stitch and work one dc in the next one. Finish the round with a slip stitch to the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round.  For the eleventh round, you will slip stitch into the next stitch and chain three. Then, repeat the following pattern: work a dc stitch in the next three stitches, one dc in the chain one space, chain one and skip the next stitch and then repeat dc in the next five stitches, chain one and skip the next stitch as many time is necessary, up until there are only seven stitches left before the next chain two space.

Then, you will work a dc stitch in each of the next five stitches, two dc in the next one, two in the chain two space. Then, you will chain two and skip the next stitch and work one dc in the next one. Repeat all around and finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three.

For the twelfth round, you will again slip stitch into the next stitch and chain three. Then, you will repeat the following: work a dc stitch in the following three stitches, one in the chain one space, then chain one and skip the next stitch and then repeat one dc in next five stitches, chain one and skip the next stitch until there are three stitches left before the chain two space.

You will work a dc in the next stitch, two dc stitches in the following one, two in the chain two space. Then, you will chain two and skip the next stitch and work a dc in the next one. Repeat all around and finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three. By the end of this round, you will have a total of 150 stitches, i.e. 120 dc stitches, 6 chain two, and 18 chain one. To continue, you will repeat rounds ten to twelve, adding a new chain one space in rounds that are multiples of three, i.e. 12, 15, 18, etc.

The general rule is that you have five dc stitches between each chain one space, and either five, seven or nine dc stitches between the last chain one space and the chain two space. You can continue crocheting as many rounds you’d like, until your rug gets the perfect size you’d like it to have. Good luck!

Chapter 4 – Doily Crochet Rug

This pattern also might seem a bit more difficult, but in fact, it is really simple. Just follow the instructions and you’ll see.

To begin, make a magic ring and chain three that will count as one dc. Work ten more dc stitches into the ring. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three. For the second round, you will chain three that will count as a dc and chain two more stitches. Then repeat one dc stitch, two chains all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the third chain. Then, for the third round, you will chain three as a dc and another three and work a dc in the same place.

Chain two and work another V stitch in the next dc stitch, i.e. work a dc stitch, chain three and another dc in the same place. Separate V stitches by chain two. Finish with a slip stitch into the third chain. For the fourth round, you will chain three and work two dc stitches in the V stitch chain space.

Chain two and work another three dc in the same chain space. Continue working three dc, chain two and three more dc stitches in each of the V stitches. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the third chain. For the sixth round, you will work V stitches (one dc, chain two, one dc) in the spaces between the ‘petals’. Then, you will chain two and work a sc stitch in the chain two space, chain two and work another V stitch in the following space between dc clusters. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the third chain of the first V stitch of the round.

For the eighth round, you will work a sc (a chain one will substitute sc stitch at the beginning of the round) stitch in the V stitch chain space, chain eight and work a sc in the next V stitch. You will repeat this all around. Finish with a slip stitch into the chain one from the beginning of the round.

For the seventh round, chain one and work another nine sc stitches in the first loop. Work 10 sc stitches in each of the following 10 loops. For the eighth round, you will chain three that will count as a dc and chain three more. Work another dc in the same place. Chain three and work a V stitch in the fifth stitch, chain three and work a V stitch between the loops. Continue working this way all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the third chain of your first V stitch. For the ninth round, you will chain three that will count as a dc and three more. Work a dc in the same place.

This will be your first V stitch for this round. Then, you will work a cluster of three dc, chain three and three dc in the V stitches that are in the middle of the loop/petal. And then, a V stitch in the V stitches between the petals. You will repeat this all around. Finish with a slip stitch into the third chain of your first V stitch.For the tenth round, you will chain six and work another dc in the same V stitch. Then, you will chain one and work a cluster of three dc, chain three, three dc in the chain three of the cluster from the previous round.

Then, you will chain one and work a V stitch in the following V stitch. You will repeat this all around. Basically, the round pattern is the same; the only difference is that you chain one between the cluster and the V stitch. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the third chain of the first V stitch. For the eleventh round, you will do the same, only that you will chain two between the V stitches and the clusters.

For the final, 12th round, you will chain three that will count as a dc and chain two more. Work a dc stitch into the same V stitch. Then, you will work two dc stitches into each of the dc stitch from the previous round and three hdc stitches in the chain spaces. Work V stitches in all the V stitches from the previous round. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the third chain of the first V stitch and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends and you’re done! Gorgeous, isn’t it?

Chapter 5 – Gorgeous Squared Rug

This pattern is actually for a motif that you can make in batches and join them together to make a rug. That’s what we did here. It is not too difficult, but you are going to need at least two colors of t-shirt yarn to make it more appealing. You can make it in one color though, but it won’t look that stunning, that’s all. The color choice is on you, whatever colors you prefer, whatever colors fit in your interior, the room you’re planning to put it, it’s all up to you.

So, to start, you will take the first color and chain four and then join the first and the last chain with a slip stitch to form a ring. For the first round, you will chain three that will count as a dc stitch and work two more dc stitches into the ring. Then, you will chain three and work the sequence: three dc stitches, chain three, three more times. To finish, join with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round.

For the second round, you will chain two and work two dc stitches together. Then, you will chain four, work a sc stitch in the next chain three space and chain four again.Then, you will repeat the following sequence all around: work three dc stitches together, chain four, work a sc in the next chain three space, chain four. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the second chain from the beginning of the round.

Fasten off the first yarn and join the new color, preferably a contrasted one. For the third round, you will chain three that will count as a dc in the first chain four space and work 4 more dc stitches in the same space. Then, you will chain three, work five dc stitches in the next chain four space, chain one, work five dc stitches in the next chain four space. You will repeat this all around. Finish with a slip stitch into the first dc. Then, you will fasten off the second color and join the third one or you can use the first color if you want to work with two colors only.

For the fourth round, you will chain three in any chain one space and work two more dc stitches in the same space. Then, you will repeat the following: chain two and skip two dc stitches, work a sc in the next dc stitch, chain two and skip the next two dc stitches, work three dc, chain three, three dc all in the next chain three space.

Then chain two and skip the next two dc stitches, work a sc in the next stitch, chain two and skip two. Repeat this all around, working three dc stitches in the chain one space. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round. Then slip stitch into the next dc stitch. For the fifth round, you will chain four that will count as one dc and a chain one. Then, you will work the following in the same stitch: one dc, one chain, one dc, one chain, one dc.

Then, you will repeat the following sequence: chain two, work a sc in the next stitch, chain three, and then work three dc, chain three, three dc all in the next chain three space. Then, you will chain three, work a sc in the next sc stitch, chain two and skip one dc and then work one dc, one chain three times and one more dc stitch all in the next dc stitch. You will repeat this sequence all around, omitting the one dc, one chain part in the last repeat, since you’ve done it in the beginning of the round.

Finish the round with a slip stitch into the third chain of the chain four from the beginning. Slip stitch into the next space for the following round. For the sixth round, you will chain four that will count as one dc and one chain.

Then, you will work one more dc in the same chain one space, chain one and work one dc, one chain two times in the next chain one space. Next, you will repeat the following sequence: one dc, one chain, one dc in the next chain one space, work a sc in the next sc stitch, chain six, work a sc in the next chain three space, chain three and then work three dc, chain three two times in the following chain three space.

Then, you will work a sc in the next chain three space, chain six, work a sc in the next sc stitch, skip the following chain two space, then work one dc one chain two times in the next two chain one spaces. Repeat the sequence all around, omitting the one dc, one chain in the last repeat. Finish the round with a slip stitch and fasten off the yarn. Weave in all the ends and work the same motif several times more.

You can join them as you go or you can join them later when you have all the motifs ready. You can make them all in same color combinations and order or you can combine different colors and color orders, whatever suits you. When you connect them all, you can do the border or you can leave it the way it is. Though, I would prefer to work at least a sc all around, just to make it all come together.

Conclusion

So, we’ve come to the end of this small but sweet book. I hope you succeeded in making these wonderful rugs. As you’ve probably noticed, the patterns are written from the simplest to a bit more difficult, so that you could progress in your crochet skills. The projects aren’t too difficult at all, you only need to follow the instructions carefully and it will be a piece of cake, I promise. If you ever needed something to feel your house a bit more like home, then these projects are the perfect excuse for buying new yarn and hooks and get started.

These projects will definitely keep you busy, but not for too long, because, let’s be honest, you won’t be making huge carpets, but only small rugs and with bulky yarn or even better, t-shirt yarn, these come out pretty fast. So, the good thing is that you will be making these fast. But, the bad thing is that you will need to find some more yarn and some more projects to complete! However, if you are anything like the creative people I know, you will be making something else in no time. Who has time to sit around and do nothing? There are plenty of projects to complete! Let’s go!

As I was writing this book, it came to my mind, what if I would try making each of the patterns I have for doilies and blankets using t-shirt yarn, would I be making rugs? I guess I need to try to be sure, but I’m pretty sure that those would be wonderful projects too. Have you tried any of those experiments? Would you? I think that whatever one wants to do and has the willingness and desire, they will also find a way to do so. However, if one does not want to do something, they will also always find a way to escape from doing so, find an excuse. I love taking charge, so I will definitely be making more of these. I hope you will too. At least as a gift for someone you care about.

Amigurumi Crochet:

Awesome Amigurumi Projects You Can Make for Your Kids

Introduction

As you probably know by now, amigurumis are very fun to work on. You have these very specific patterns and you see how the toy is created in front of your eyes. There’s something very satisfying in the process. However, as much as you would enjoy the process of making them, your kids will enjoy playing with them even more. Please find a kid that doesn’t like toys. There isn’t any, right?

They love toys, especially those that are suitable for their age. They love playing with various things, but as parents, we know that we can’t give them just anything to play with. We have to be careful so that it is safe for kids to play. With amigurumis, you don’t have to worry, they are perfectly safe and your kid should be perfectly safe playing with them

These patterns are quite nice and useful, but some of them are the cutest things I have seen in a long time. Just check out the seal and koala and you’ll know what I’m talking about. I hope you will enjoy crocheting these wonderful toys as much as I did creating this book for you.

Happy crocheting!

Chapter 1 – Poliwag Pokemon Amigurumi

If your kid likes Pokémon, they will love this Poliwag amigurumi toy. You can make custom Pokémon toys for your kids, isn’t that amazing? However, if your kid doesn’t like Pokémon or doesn’t know who they are, you can still make this adorable toy and present it as an adorable little hamster or lemming or whatever small animal you can think of. It is really lovely and irresistible.

To start, take the blue yarn and either make a magic ring and work six single crochet (sc) stitches into the ring, or chain two and work six sc stitches into the first chain you made. Either way, you will finish the round by a slip stitch into the chain from the beginning of the round. For the second round, you will chain one and work an increase in all of the stitches. This means that you will work two sc stitches in each sc stitch from the previous round. Finish the round with a slip stitch.

In the third round, you will chain one and work the following pattern all around: you will work one sc in one stitch and two sc stitches in the next stitch. Finish with a slip stitch. In the fourth round, you will chain one and work one sc stitch in each of the next two stitches and two sc stitches in the third stitch. Repeat this six times. Finish the round with a slip stitch.

In the fifth round, you will chain one and work one sc stitch in three stitches and two sc stitches in the fourth one. Repeat this five more times, six in total. Finish the round with a slip stitch. In the next six rounds, i.e. from round six to eleven, you will chain one and work sc stitches all around, one in each of the 30 stitches. Finish the rounds with a slip stitch.

Then, you will start decreasing. In the 12th round, you will chain one and work the following pattern: crochet three sc stitches, one in each of the following three stitches and then decrease by working two stitches together. Repeat this five more times. Finish the round with a slip stitch.

In the 13th round, you will chain one and work a sc stitch in each of the following two stitches and then work two together. Repeat this five more times and finish with a slip stitch. Now would be the perfect time to stuff your toy. Then, in the 14th round, you will chain one and work one sc stitch, one decrease. You will repeat this five more times and finish the round with a slip stitch. In the 15th round, you will chain one and work six decreases. Add more stuffing if it’s necessary. Finish the round with a slip stitch.

Fasten off the yarn. Close the hole using a tapestry needle and the tail part of the yarn. Then, we move on to making the belly. You will use white yarn for this part. Again, you can either make a magic ring and work six sc stitches, or chain two and work six sc stitches in the first chain. Finish the round with a slip stitch. In the second round, you will chain one and work six increases, i.e. you will work two sc stitches in each stitch. Finish the round with a slip stitch. In the third round, you will chain one and work one sc and one increase six times. Finish the round with a slip stitch.

In the fourth round, you will chain one and work two sc stitches and one increase. Repeat this five more times and finish the round with a slip stitch. Fasten off the yarn leaving a long tail.  Then, using black yarn and a tapestry needle, you will embroider the swirl on the white part you just made. Then, using the same needle, you will thread the tail of the white piece and use it to sew the belly onto the body.

Next, we will be making the feet for our lovely toy. Using blue yarn, you will chain four and work one sc in the second chain from the hook. Work a sc stitch in the next chain stitch and three in the last one. Work one sc stitch in each of the next two chain stitches and two in the last one. Finish the round with a slip stitch. In the second round, you will chain one and work ten sc stitches all around. Finish with a slip stitch. In the third round, you will chain one and work a sc stitch in next two stitches, work a decrease three times and work a sc stitch in each of the next two stitches.

Finish the round with a slip stitch. Fasten off the yarn leaving a long tail. Make one more. Once you have both feet finished, you will sew them onto the body. Then, you will embroider the mouth using pink yarn. Then, to make the eyes, using black yarn, you will chain two and work four sc stitches in the first chain. Finish the round with a slip stitch. Fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail. Repeat once more for the other eye. Sew the eyes on the body using a tapestry needle and the tail. While you’re sewing the eyes, you can embroider a tiny line on the mouth to give it more dimension.

Then, using white yarn, you will embroider a bit of shine in the pupils and on one side of the eye, again, to give it dimension. Do the same for the other eye, only on opposite sides.  Finally, you’re going to make the tail. Using white yarn, you will chain 11. Then, you’re going to work a sc stitch in the second chain from the hook and in the next two chain stitches. Then, you will work half-double crochet (hdc) stitch in the next two chain stitches.

Next, you will work a double crochet (dc) stitch in the next four stitches. Work five dc stitches in the next stitch and one dc in each of the following four stitches. Work a hdc stitch in next two stitches and sc stitch in following two stitches. Then, you will work two sc stitches in the next stitch and finish the round with a slip stitch. Fasten off the yarn leaving a long tail. Then, using black yarn, you will embroider a straight line through the middle of the tail. Attach the tail to the body. Weave in ends and you’re done! Cute, isn’t it?

Chapter 2 – Amigurumi Puzzle Ball

Toys like this one are extremely helpful for your child because they learn and perfect their sensory skills. Your child will enjoy throwing the ball, but at the same time, they can play with it by disassembling it and putting it back together. It is quite challenging for children. Plus, they won’t break anything if they throw it inside the house because it is quite lightweight.

For this project, you will need two or three colors of yarn, crochet hook, stitch marker and scissors. It isn’t much difficult, so don’t hesitate to try making it. To start, you will make a magic ring and work three sc stitches into the ring. Then, you will tighten the ring and join with a slip stitch. Place a marker so that you know where the beginning is.

In the second round, you will work increases in all of the stitches. You will have six stitches by the end of the round. Finish the round with a slip stitch. In the third round, you will chain one and work one more sc stitch in the same space. Then alternate one sc in one stitch and an increase in the following stitch. In the following round, you will work two sc stitches and increase.

In the fifth round, you will work three sc stitches and an increase and so on. Each new round, you will work one more sc stitch between the increases until you have eight sc stitches and an increase. Each round will be finished with a slip stitch and each new round will start with chain one, just like any other amigurumi project.

Now, you can also do this in spirals and then, you will need the marker even more to know where your round begins/ends. If you decide to work in spirals, you will not finish the rounds with a slip stitch, nor you will start a new round with a chain one, but you will remove the marker and work an increase in that stitch. And then continue working the pattern for that round.

You will place the marker in the first stitch of that increase. Once you finish your round where you work eight sc stitches and an increase, you will finish this part. Fasten off the yarn, weave it in and leave it inside the triangular shape. You will need twelve of these, so you will repeat this eleven more times. Then, you’re going to work on the outer sides of the ball and then, you’ll be able to assemble the ball.

To make this part, you will need to chain two and work two sc stitches in the first chain, which is your second chain stitch from the hook. Then, you will chain one and turn your work. Work two sc stitches, one in each stitch. Then, you will chain one and turn your work. You will work two increases, chain one and turn your work. You will then work four sc stitches. Then, you will chain one and work one increase, two sc stitches and one increase at the end of the row. Then, you will chain one and work six sc stitches. You will chain one and again work six sc stitches. Repeat twice more.

Then, you will chain one and work one decrease, two sc stitches and one more decrease. Chain one and work four sc stitches. Chain one and work two decreases. Chain one and work two sc stitches. Chain one and work one decrease. This is one section, and we need four more in this part. You will do this by repeating the pattern you just did. You will not fasten off the yarn or cut it; you will chain two and work an increase in the second chain from the hook. Chain one and work two sc stitches. Repeat all the steps you did previously.

You need to have four diamond shapes connected together for one part of the ball. You will make three sets of four diamond shapes. When you finish one set, you can either finish the part using that same color, or you can use a different color to join the pieces and make it more colorful. Either way, you will work sc stitches around one side of the diamond shaped stripe and one side of the triangles. You will insert the hook through both one loop of the diamond and one of the triangle and work sc stitches all around. When you start closing the triangles, you will stuff your triangles with stuffing. You will have 15 sc stitches at each side of the triangle.

When you finish all of the four triangles, you will not fasten off the yarn just yet. You will connect the ends so that they form a circle. You will connect them using slip stitches and then fasten off the yarn. If you’d like, you can use a tapestry needle and sew it a little bit better. Then weave in the ends. Do the same thing for the other two circles. Once you finish all three circles, the ball is ready to assemble and play. Have fun!

Chapter 3 – Cutest Baby Seal Amigurumi

If your kid is into small animals, they will absolutely love this one. However, if your kid is a bit older, you can make this amigurumi as a keychain for them. It is the cutest project you’ll ever make.

To start, you will chain two and work six sc stitches in the second chain stitch from the hook. Finish the round with a slip stitch. In the second round, you will chain one and work six increases and finish the round with a slip stitch. In the third round, you will chain one, and work one sc stitch and one increase. You will alternate these six times and finish the round with a slip stitch. Each round will begin with chain one and end with a slip stitch, no need to emphasize each time.

In the fourth round, you will alternate two sc stitches and an increase six times. In the next four rounds, i.e. from round 5 to 8, you will work sc stitches in all of the stitches, no increases. In the ninth round, you will chain one, work six sc stitches and one decrease. You will repeat six sc and a decrease two more times.

In the tenth round, you will work five sc stitches and a decrease three times. In the 11th round, you will work four sc stitches and a decrease three times. Before you start the next round, you should insert the stuffing. Of course, you’re going to add some at the end, but it is easier to insert the most of the stuffing now. In the 12th round, you will work sc stitches all around. In the 13th round, you will work three sc stitches and a decrease three times. In the 14th round, you will work all 12 sc stitches. You can stuff the toy at any point now or you can stuff it at the end before you close it off.

In the 15th round, you will work two sc stitches and a decrease in the next one three times. You should stuff the remaining fibers because you’re going to close the hole now. In the 16th round, you will work three decreases and right after that you’re going to work three sc stitches together. To make the tail or the hind flipper, you’re going to chain four, work three double crochet (dc) stitches in the first chain stitch, i.e. in the fourth chain from the hook and chain three and slip stitch into the same chain you did dc stitches in. then, you’re going to work a sc in the middle of the tail base and repeat the same for the other part of the tail.

This means that you’re going to chain four, work three dc stitches in the fourth chain from the hook and chain three and slip stitch into the sc stitch you did previously. Then, you’re going to fasten off the yarn and weave it inside the body. Next, you’re going to make the mouth. Using light blue color yarn, you’re going to chain three and work a sc in the second chain from the hook. Then, work three sc stitches in the next chain which will turn your piece around.

Then, work two sc stitches in the next chain and slip stitch to the starting stitch. This way, you’re going to get an oval shape which is perfect. Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew it on the body. Find an appropriate place and sew it on sing a tapestry needle and the tail. Then, use a black embroidery thread and embroider the mouth. Don’t cut the thread but continue embroidering the eyes too.

Then, use the light pink yarn to embroider the cheeks. Next, you’re going to make the front flippers. Using white yarn, you’re going to chain five and work a dc stitch into the fourth chain from the hook. Work another dc stitch in the next chain stitch and fasten off the yarn leaving a tail for sewing. Then make another one and sew them onto the body. Once you’ve attached the flippers onto the body, you’re done! Cuteness overload!

Chapter 4 – Koala Bear Amigurumi

Who doesn’t like koalas? They are absolutely adorable! Let’s make one! For this project, you will need gray and white yarn, black thread for embroidery, crochet hook, scissors, marker, eyes, some accessory like a bow or a piece of fabric to tie around its neck.

To start, you will make a magic ring and work six sc stitches into the ring, all using gray yarn. Place a marker into the sixth sc stitch because you’re going to work in spirals. You can finish and start each new round, but this might be a better way for such projects. In the second round, you will work six increases, which will double the number of stitches and you’ll end up having twelve stitches at the end of this round. Always move your marker to the last stitch in that round. In the third round, you’re going to work one sc and one increase all around.

In the fourth round, you will work two sc stitches and one increase all around. In the fifth round, you’re going to work three sc stitches and one increase all around. The next seven rounds, you’re going to work sc in all of the stitches, no increases.

In the 13th round, you’re going to work three sc stitches and one decrease. Repeat this all around. In the 14th round, you’re going to work two sc stitches and a decrease all around. It is now a good time to insert the stuffing. Then, in the 15th round, you’re going to work one sc and once decrease all around. Add some more stuffing.

In the 16th round, you will work six decreases. Then, you’re going to fasten off the yarn and using a tapestry needle, you’re going to close the hole with the tail you left when you were fastening off the yarn. Weave in the ends. Next, you’re going to make the legs. You will start by making a magic ring and working eight sc stitches into the ring. In the second round, you’re going to work three sc and an increase two times. In the next two rounds, i.e. third and fourth round, you will work all sc stitches, no increases needed.

After you finish fourth round, you will fasten off the yarn and make another piece just like this one. There’s no need to fasten off the second leg because, you’ll just continue to work around both legs. Then, you can make the arms. You will start by making a magic ring and working six sc stitches into the ring. Then, you’re going to work five rounds of just six sc stitches, no increases at all.

When you finish the fifth round, you will fasten off the yarn. Make two arms, of course. Then, you will start working on the body. You will attach the other leg to the first one by working the first stitch through the stitch on the other leg. Then, you’re going to continue working sc stitches all around both legs.

In the next round, you’re going to work six sc stitches and a decrease, then eight sc stitches and a decrease and another four sc stitches. In the seventh round, you’re going to work sc stitches all around. Then, in the next round, you’re going to work five sc stitches and a decrease, eight sc stitches and a decrease and another three sc stitches.

At this point you can add some stuffing into the legs and lower part of the body. Then work one round of sc stitches. In the next round, you’re going to work four sc stitches and a decrease, eight sc stitches and a decrease and another two sc stitches. Then, you’re going to work two rounds of sc stitches. Add some more stuffing. Then, in the following round, you’re going to work three sc stitches and add an arm. You will do this by inserting the hook through two stitches of the arm and also through the next stitch that will be worked.

Then work a sc stitch through those stitches. You will do the same for the next two stitches. Then, work five sc stitches and attach the other arm in the same manner you attached the first arm. Then work another three sc stitches to finish the round. Then work a round of sc stitches. Next, you’re going to make the ears. To begin, you need to make a magic ring and work six sc stitches into the ring.

In the second round, you’re going to work six increases. In the third round, you’re going to work two sc stitches and an increase all around. In the fourth and fifth round, you’re going to work sc stitches all around. Then, in the sixth round, you’re going to work two sc stitches and a decrease all around. Then, you’re going to connect the sides by flattening the ear and working sc stitches through two stitches. This will make it a lot easier to attach to the head.

Then, for the inside of the ear, you’re going to take the white yarn and make a magic ring and work four sc stitches into the ring. In the second round, you’re going to work four increases. And you’re done. Fasten off the yarn. You can use a brush to fluff the insides of the ear, to make it seem a bit more realistic. Then, you can either glue the insides of the ears or you can leave a bit longer tail and sew them onto the ears. Of course, you will need to make two ears. Then, you will attach the head onto the body. If you feel like you should stuff the body a bit more, do it, because it is your last chance. Sew the head to the body and then attach the ears to the head.

Then add the eyes. You can also embroider the eyes if that’s what you prefer. Then take the black thread and embroider square-like nose. Once you finish all that, you can add some decorative accessories and you’re done! They are just adorable, right?

Chapter 5 – Baby Beach Ball Amigurumi

Regardless whether your kid is a baby or a toddler or a bit older, they will love playing with a ball. Why not make one that is safe for them and your household items? With this ball, they will less likely break anything around the house and the fun is still there. You will need several colors of yarn for this project.

You will make the ball in parts/stripes that will later on be connected together. To start, you will make a slipknot and chain two. You will work a sc in the second chain from the hook and another sc in the slipknot loop. Then, you’re going to chain one and turn your work around. Then, you’re going to work one sc in the next stitch and an increase in the next one.

Then, you’re going to turn your work and chain one or you can chain and turn, whatever you prefer. Then, you’re going to work one sc stitch, one increase and one sc stitch. Next, you’re going to turn your work and chain one. You will work two sc stitches, an increase and another sc stitch. Then, you will turn and chain one.

Then, you will work two sc stitches, and increase and another two sc stitches. Turn your work and chain one. Then, you will work three sc stitches, an increase and two more sc stitches. Then after turning your work and chaining one, you will work three sc stitches, one increase and three more sc stitches. In the following row, you will work sc stitches all across the row. In the next row, you will work four sc stitches, an increase and three more sc stitches. Of course, each new row begins with turning your work and a chain one.

In the following row, you will work sc stitches in all of the stitches. Then, in the following row, you will work four sc stitches, an increase and four more sc stitches. Work sc stitches all across the following row. In the following row, you will work four sc stitches, one increase and five more sc stitches. Next row will be sc stitches. So, the pattern is one row with an increase in the middle and the next one is without increases. Thus, the following row will be five sc stitches, an increase, five more sc stitches and the one after is just sc stitches, no increasing.

In the next row, you will work five sc stitches, an increase, another six sc stitches. The row after is without increases. The following row will be six sc stitches, an increase, and another six sc stitches. Work another row of sc stitches. Then, the next row will be six sc stitches, an increase and seven more sc stitches. Work a row of sc stitches. Then, in the next row, you will work seven sc stitches, an increase and seven more sc stitches. Work a row of sc stitches.

In the following row, you will work seven sc stitches, an increase and another eight sc stitches. Then again work a row without increases. In the next row, you’re going to work eight sc stitches, an increase and eight more sc stitches. Then work a row without increases. Next, you will work eight sc stitches, an increase and nine more sc stitches and a row without increases. Then, you will work nine sc stitches, an increase and another nine sc stitches and a row without increases. Now, you will reverse the process. You will work nine sc stitches, a decrease and another nine stitches, then a row without decreases.

Then, you will work eight sc stitches, a decrease and nine more sc stitches. You will continue decreasing gradually until you have ten stitches. You will then work four sc stitches, one decrease and another four sc stitches. Then, you will no longer work the rows without decreases. You will decrease every row in the middle. So, the next row will be three sc stitches, a decrease, four more sc stitches. You will continue decreasing until you’re left with only one stitch.

You will then fasten off the yarn leaving a pretty long tail and make five more of these. You will sew all of these together. You can combine whichever colors suit you and your kid. When you’re almost done sewing all six parts of the ball, you will insert the stuffing. Close the ball completely. Then, you will make the circles that go on top and bottom of the ball. You will take yarn you’d like and chain three.

Then, you will join the beginning and ending chain with a slip stitch to make a ring. You will then work six sc stitches into the ring. In the next round, you’re going to work six increases, one in each stitch. Then, in the next round, you’re going to work one sc stitch, one increase all around. In the following round, you’re going to work two sc stitches and an increase all around. You will then fasten off the yarn leaving a long tail. Make two of these circles and sew them on top and bottom of the ball. And you’re done! Great fun!

Conclusion

I hope you loved the book as much as I did. And I hope you had fun making all of those projects. As you probably noticed, anyone can make anything if they put an effort in it. You have to work and you’ll see the results. Maybe not right away, but the results will be there, sooner or later.

The same thing applies to crochet projects. If you try and work hard, you will succeed. The instructions are pretty clear and straight-forward and anyone can follow them. You just need to be focused and you’ll get it. If you’re a bit more advanced, I challenge you to change the patterns a bit. Make something out of a base, be creative and playful. Don’t always do as told, it is fun. Crochet is fun, just try it! I wish you a lot of successful crochet projects!

Happy crocheting!

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Crochet Kitchen Necessities:

All the Little Things You Need in Your Kitchen

Introduction

Any kitchen in the world needs things like potholders, towels, scrubbies, coasters, placemats, etc. The good news is here; you can make these yourself. Why wouldn’t you choose 100 % cotton materials (yarn) and the designs and colors you like and think are stylish and suitable for your home and kitchen.

The best thing about do it yourself and handmade projects is that you can choose what to make, when, how, using which materials, colors, designs and you can arrange all that so that they look perfect in your home. Perfect, right? Another great thing about the projects like these is that you can modify them as you like.

Well, if you are just beginning crocheting, you may feel intimidated and don’t want to experiment. But, if you do have some experience in crochet, you can easily adjust the watermelon coaster into citrus ones. As a matter of fact, the process will look almost the same; the only difference is in the details at the end. Instead of embroidering watermelon seeds, you can embroider citrus segments with slip stitch.

The ideas are endless, you just need some inspiration. And that’s what you’ll get plenty of here, in this book. Now, if you are not into cooking or you don’t have guests that often, you can make these and give them as a gift on almost any occasion, because everyone will appreciate a good kitchen set. Regardless of what it may consist of.

However, if you do like hosting parties to your friends and family, you may want to make plenty of coasters like these, or placemats, mug sets, etc. it is the perfect opportunity to make something and to present it to your friends and family.

Let’s admit it; those people are the toughest critics ever. If they don’t like something, they will tell us. And if they do and you really enjoy making these, why not give them as gifts to your guests or sell them. As I said, the opportunities are endless.

Anyways, I really hope that you will have fun making these items and especially that you’re going to enjoy using them for a long, long time. I wish you happy crocheting!

Chapter 1 – Crochet Watermelon Coasters

These are my number one summer choice. They are so vibrant and joyful and even if the summer is over, they have that power to bring it back any time of the year. These are pretty simple to make and you will definitely love how they look on your summer table.

For this project, you will need yarn in three colors, red/pink for the middle, white and green yarn, crochet hook of an appropriate size and tapestry needle. To start, you’re going to take the red or pink yarn and make a magic circle using that yarn. Then, you are going to work 12 half-double crochet (hdc) stitches into the ring. To finish the round, you’re going to tighten the ring and slip stitch into the top of the first hdc stitch.

In the second round, you’re going to chain one and work a hdc stitch in the same space. Then, you’re going to work two hdc stitches in each stitch all around. Finish with a slip stitch. In the third round, you will chain one and work one hdc stitch in the same space. Then continue working one hdc and one increase.

An increase is typically understood as two stitches worked in one stitch. So, in this case, you will work one hdc in one stitch and two hdc stitches in the next one. You will repeat this all around and finish the round with a slip stitch. You will fasten off the first color and join the next one, which is white.

Using white yarn, you’re going to chain one and work one single crochet (sc) stitch in the same space. Then, you’re going to work one sc stitch in each of the next two stitches and then a sc increase in the next one. You will repeat this all around and finish the round with a slip stitch. You will then fasten off the second color and join the third one, which is green. Using this color, you will chain one and work sc stitches all around the item. You will finish the round with a slip stitch. Then, you can fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends using a tapestry needle.

However, you can cut the yarn and weave it so that you cannot notice where the piece finishes. You will do this using a tapestry needle. You will thread the needle and pull the thread through the beginning chain and back through the same loop. Finish by weaving in the end to prevent it from unraveling. To finish the coaster, you will take the tapestry needle and black yarn and embroider five to six seed like shapes in the second round you did. And that’s it! Summer vibes!

Chapter 2 – Elegant Crochet Mug Set

Here we have a set for your mug. This elegant and absolutely adorable mug set consists of a mug cozy and a mug rug. You can make these for your cups or you can make them as gifts for your friends and family. Everyone will love them, undoubtedly.

First, you will make the mug rug. You will make a slipknot and chain 16 stitches. Then, you’re going to turn your chain and work 15 sc stitches into the back loops of the chain. Of course, this means that you’re going to skip the first back loop and continue from the second loop from the hook. Then, you’re going to chain one, turn your work and work 15 sc stitches. You will repeat this second row until you have 15 rows in total. When you finish 15 rows, you will cut the yarn and weave in the ends. Now, you’re going to work on the edging of the rug.

Using a different color yarn, you’re going to make a slipknot and work a sc stitch. Then, you’re going to chain one, skip a stitch and work a sc stitch in the next stitch. You will continue working this way all around. This means that you will chain one and skip one stitch and work a sc stitch into the next one.

When you get to the corner, you’re going to work a sc stitch, chain one and work another sc stitch into the same space. Continue working chain one, skip one stitch and sc in the next one all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the first sc stitch. Change color and work the next round in the same manner you did this one. The only difference being that you work sc stitches in the chain one spaces and chain one and skip the sc stitches.

This way of crocheting is called the seed stitch. Work two more rows of seed stitch, changing colors. However, use your base color as the finishing color for this rug. When you finish the fourth round of seed stitches, fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. Next, you’re going to make the mug cozy. For this mug, I needed to chain 31, but you should measure your mug, just in case it is different in size. Three of 31 stitches are for height. So measure 28 stitches around your mug. If your mug is of different shape or size, please adjust the pattern according to your mug.

If your mug is a bit wider and of same width from top to bottom, then you won’t increase at each end, but you will chain a certain number of stitches and work that same number of stitches all across the work. Having cleared that out, let’s continue. So, you will work 28 double crochet (dc) stitches in the back loops of your chain. You will skip the first three loops because that counts as one dc stitch.Then, you will chain three and turn your work. Next, you will work one more dc stitch into the same space you did your chain three. Work dc stitch into each of the stitches across. When you get to the end of the row, you will work two dc stitches into the last stitch.

Then, you will chain three and turn. Again, increase by working one more dc stitch into the same space where you chained three. Work dc stitches all across and increase in the last stitch.Work your first five rows this way, increasing at the beginning and at the end of the row. When you finish the fifth row, you will work one more, but without increasing. So, you will chain three, turn your work, work all the dc stitches and finish with just one dc stitch in the last stitch. Now, you’re going to work the edging.

Without fastening off, you’re going to work three sc stitches around the dc stitch you just did. Then, work two sc stitches around each of the dc stitches down the side. Work three sc stitches in the corner. Then, work one sc stitch into each of the stitches from the starting chain.

Work two sc stitches around the next dc stitch and then chain 20 stitches to create the first button loop. This also depends on the width of your mug, but you can move the button even if the loop is a bit longer than it should be. Then, work another sc stitch in the same space to finish the corner. Then work two sc stitches around each of the dc stitches. When you reach the last row, you will chain 17 to make the second button loop. Then, you will work three sc stitches into the corner and work one sc stitch all across until you finish the round.

Finish the round with a slip stitch and fasten off the yarn, weave in the ends. Then, take a different color yarn and pull up a loop between the first two rows. Then, take your hook and insert it between next two stitches. Pull up a loop from there and pull it through the loop that’s already on your hook. Do this from one end to the other. Make two more such stripes using same colors of yarn that you used for your mug rug. Then, all you need to do is to sew your buttons and weave in any ends that need weaving. And that’s it; your mug now has a cozy and a rug! Lovely, isn’t it?

Chapter 3 – Wonderful Dishcloth/Scrubby

Every kitchen needs these, lots and lots of these. You can use them in so many ways. You can make them either using regular 100% cotton yarn or you can use yarns that are specially made for knitting and crocheting scrubbies. The second type of yarn is used here, but you can also use cotton.

To start, you need to make a magic ring and chain three. Then, you’re going to work 13 dc stitches into the ring, so that you have 14 dc stitches in total. Tighten the ring and slip stitch into the third chain. In the second round, you’re going to chain four; three will count as a dc stitch and one chain for separation. You will continue working according to this pattern, one dc, and one chain stitch all around.

Finish with a chain one slip stitched into the third chain from the beginning of the round. Fasten off the yarn. Join in a new color of yarn in the space between the dc posts. You will chain two and work two more unfinished dc stitches. You will do these by yarning over, inserting the hook in the chain one space, pulling up a loop, and pulling the yarn through two loops. Then, leave the remaining loop on the hook, until you make another one of those.Then finish the stitch by pulling the yarn through all the loops.

Chain two and work three dc stitches together in the next chain one space. Continue working this way all around. To finish the round, you’re going to chain two and slip stitch into the first cluster or petal you did. Fasten off the yarn. Then, you will join new color of yarn in the space between the petals, i.e. in the chain two space. You will chain three and work another three dc stitches in the same chain space.

Continue working four dc stitches in each of the chain two spaces all around. Next, you’re going to join the second color once again and chain three. Then, work two more dc stitches in each of the next two stitches. Then, work an increase in the following stitch. So, the pattern for this round is three dc stitches, one dc increase. Work the pattern all around the work and slip stitch into the top of the chain three you did at the beginning of the round. Then, you will chain three and work dc stitches all around. Finish with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three. In the next round, you will chain three and work three more dc stitches.

Then, you’re going to skip the fifth stitch and work another four dc stitches, one in each of the next four stitches. Skip the fifth one and work another four. Continue this way all around. In the next round, you’re going to work three chains, two dc, skip one stitch, three dc, skip one and continue that way all around.Finish with a slip stitch. In the next round, you’re going to chain three and work one dc, skip one stitch, work two dc stitches, skip one, etc. continue working the pattern until you finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three.

In the next round, you’re going to chain three, skip one stitch, work one dc, skip the next stitch and repeat all around. Then, you’re going to fasten off the yarn, leaving a long tail. Then, using a tapestry needle, you’re going to close the hole and tie the knot. Then take the thread to one side where you want your hanging loop to be. Using a crochet hook, chain fifteen and attach the end of the chain to the side of the scrubby. Weave in the ends and you’re done! It is absolutely adorable! And very useful!

Chapter 4 – Crochet Camomile Potholder

There are so many useful items you can make for your kitchen. One of those are definitely potholders. You don’t want to ruin your furniture or table cloths, right? These lovely potholders will definitely help you out. You can also use them if you want to move a pot from the stove or if you need to stir and hold the pot while doing so. As I already said, these are very useful and a must-have for any household.

You will need yarn in two colors, preferably one of them is white, the other one is yellow, but you can use any other color if you’d like. For this item, white and yellow/orange was used. To begin, you will take your yellow yarn and make a slipknot and chain six. Then, you will slip stitch the end of the chain to the beginning to form a ring. Then, you’re going to chain three and work 11 dc stitches into the ring. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of chain three from beginning of the round.

In the second round, you’re going to chain one and work one more sc stitch into the same space. You will continue working increases in all of the stitches, meaning that you’re going to work two sc stitches in each dc stitch. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the chain. Then, you’re going to chain one and work a round of one increase, one sc stitch all around. In the next round, you’re going to work two sc stitches, one increase all around.

In the fifth round, you’re going to work three sc stitches and an increase all around. Of course, each round will begin with chain one and finish with a slip stitch into the chain one you did at the beginning of the round. You may want to use a stitch marker or a different color yarn to know where to begin and where to end a round. That is, if you find it difficult to track where your rounds begin and end.

You can make this center piece as little or as large as you want to. Here, there are seven rounds in the center and in each new round, you increase the distance of increases by one. So, in the sixth round, you will work four sc stitches and an increase. And finally, in the seventh round, you’re going to work five sc stitches and an increase.

Then, you’re going to change color to white and chain three. Then, you’re going to work another dc stitch into the same space, chain one and work two more dc stitches into the same space. Then, you’re going to skip six stitches and work the pattern of two dc stitches, chain one and another two dc stitches in the same space. Work this pattern all around. Finish with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three.

In the next round, you can slip stitch to move to the chain space in the V shape and chain three. Then, you’re going to work two more dc stitches, chain two and work three dc stitches in the same chain space. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three.

In the next round, you will again slip stitch to move to the chain space and chain three. Then, work another three dc stitches in the same space, chain two and work four more dc stitches in the same space. Repeat the pattern all around. In the next round, you will chain three and work another four dc stitches, chain three and work another five dc stitches in the same space.

You will repeat this five dc, chain three, five dc stitches all around the work. In the final round, you’re going to chain three and work eleven more dc stitches. Continue working twelve dc stitches in each chain space around. You will then fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. Then, you’re going to take your first color and join it at the top of one of the petals. Chain one and work sc stitches until you reach the place where two petals join.

Then, you’re going to work chain one and one sc stitch until you get to the center part. Then, you’re going to work in the same manner up the petal. Then, you’re going to work sc stitches all around the petal and work the pattern between the petals. When you finish, you can make the hanger loop by chaining 15 stitches. Then, you will fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. And there you have your very own, handmade, crocheted chamomile potholder.

Chapter 5 – Chevron Kitchen Towel

One of those things that you must have in your kitchen are towels. Why wouldn’t you make them yourself? These are not too difficult to make, but they sure make a great impression and are quite useful to have around in the kitchen.

You will need some cotton yarn and crochet hook of an appropriate size, of course. To begin, you will need to chain 51. Then, you will skip the first three chains from the hook and work in the fourth one. You will work one dc in the fourth chain from the hook. Then, you’re going to work one dc stitch into each of the following three chain stitches.

Next, you will work two decreases by working two dc stitches together twice. Then, work one dc stitch into each of the following three chain stitches and work two dc stitches in the next stitch. Then, you will be following a pattern: two dc stitches in the next stitch, one in each of the next three stitches, work two decreases, one dc stitch in each of the next three stitches, one increase in the next stitch. You will repeat the pattern three times. You will have a total of 48 stitches by the end of this row. Turn your work and chain one.

In the second row, you will chain one that will not count as a stitch. Then, you’re going to work two sc stitches in the same stitch space as your chain one, one sc stitch in each of the next three stitches, work two decreases, one sc stitch in each of the next three stitches, and an increase in the next one.

Then, you will repeat the following sequence three times: one increase, three sc stitches, one in each stitch, two decreases, three sc stitches, and one increase. Join the next color at the end of this row. Fasten off the previous color and turn your work. You will have48 stitches throughout the chevron part of the pattern.

In the third row, you’re going to chain three which will count as a stitch and work a dc stitch in the same stitch you chained three. Then, work one dc stitch in each of the next three stitches, two decreases, one dc stitch in each of the next three stitches, one increase. Then, you will repeat the following sequence three times: one increase, three dc stitches (one in each of the next three stitches), two decreases, three dc stitches, and one increase.

You will then repeat the second and the third row alternately changing colors. Repeat the pattern until you have 12 stripes, which are in fact 24 rows. Then, you will do the following: in the 25th row, you will straighten the row. You will do this by chain one, and work a sc stitch in the same stitch space as your chain one. Work one sc stitch in the next three stitches.

Then, you will repeat the following pattern: one hdc stitch, one dc, one dc, one hdc, three sc stitches (one in each of the next three stitches), skip the next two stitches, work three sc stitches. Repeat this pattern three times. Then, work one hdc, one dc, one dc, one hdc and four sc in last four stitches. Join a new color while finishing your last stitch. By the end of this row, you will have 42 stitches.

In the 26th row, you will chain one and work one more sc stitch in the same stitch. Then, you will work one sc decrease and then repeat working one sc, one decrease until you reach the end of the row. By the end of this row, you will have 28 stitches. In the next three rows, i.e. from the 27th till the 29th row, you will repeat 26th row. By the end of the 29th row, you will have nine stitches in total.

In the next five rows, i.e. from 30th till 34th row, you will chain one and work one sc stitch in the same stitch. Then, you will work one sc stitch in each stitch across the row. In the 35th row, you will chain one and work one more sc stitch in the same stitch. Then, you will work a decrease, one sc stitch, a decrease, one sc stitch, a decrease. By the end of this row, you will have six stitches. In the 36th row, you will chain one and work one sc stitch in the same stitch. Work one sc, one decrease and two more sc stitches.

Then, in the 37th row, you will chain one, and work one more sc stitch in the same stitch and work sc stitches in each of the five stitches. You will repeat this last row until your work measures 15 cm or 6 inches from where you last changed colors. Of course, you can make it longer if you need to; just repeat this row as many times is necessary. Then, to make a button hole, you will chain one and work another sc stitch in the same stitch.

Then you will work one sc, chain two and skip one stitch and work two sc stitches. In the next row, you will chain one and work a sc stitch in the same space. Then, you will skip the next stitch, work three sc stitches in the chain two loop, skip one stitch and work a sc stitch in the last one. For the last row, you will chain one, skip one stitch, work five dc stitches, skip one stitch and slip stitch into the last stitch. You will then fasten off the yarn. To make it more professional looking, you can work a slip stitch around the top part to make the edges a bit smoother. Also, weave in the ends and add a button to your towel. I think these are quite fun and lovely looking, aren’t they?

Chapter 6 – Crochet Spring Placemat

In case you were wondering if you could also make some placemats, the answer is: Yes, yes, you can! These are adorable and the best thing is that they are done in no time.

To begin, you will chain 73 stitches. Then, you will work dc stitches in all of the 70 chain stitches. Skip the first three because they will count as a stitch. You will continue working dc stitches until you are done with 37 rows. You can then fasten off the yarn. Then, you will do the edging. It is very simple.

You will repeat the following pattern over and over again: 5 dc stitches into the same stitch, skip one stitch, one sc stitch, skip one stitch, five dc stitches in the next stitch, etc. when you get to the corner, you will finish one cluster of five dc stitches, skip one stitch, then in the corner stitch you will work one dc, one treble crochet (tc) and one more dc stitch and then, you will skip one stitch and work a cluster of five dc stitches.

Then, you will make the flower. You will make a slipknot and chain eight. You will then slip stitch the end of the chain to the beginning chain to make a ring. Then, you will chain two and work 17 dc stitches into the ring and finish the round with a slip stitch. Then, you will chain six, skip three stitches and work a sc stitch. You will repeat this five more times.

For the petals, you will work three dc stitches, one chain, and another three dc stitches in the same space. Then, you will work one sc stitch and repeat the same for every petal. For the cutest swirls, you just need to chain 40 stitches and then sew the flower and the swirls onto the placemat. Very easy, right?

Conclusion

So, we’ve come to the end of this short, but very productive and useful journey. I like to think this way of every new project I do. Every new project is a journey that I am going on and I do my best to enjoy and remove any stress from it. I suggest everyone to do the same. The reason for doing so is that you will get stress free time in any part of the day you decide to enjoy creating and making something.

It might be very useful for you and for your family. You will relieve yourself from stress and anxiety and your family will get a new you. Plus, you will get interesting, useful and gorgeous items made with your hands. It’s a win-win situation, if you ask me.

I challenge you to create some patterns of your own. Use your imagination and try to create or at least recreate someone else’s ideas. It is not that hard, trust me. The feeling I get when I finish projects like these is the most intense, satisfying happiness to have finished something that someone will enjoy having. It doesn’t have to be ma, nor my family, nor my friends.

I can give something as a gift to someone, yet still fell the happiness that someone will get a good use of that item. And that’s what makes me happy and satisfied. I hope that you will continue working with my or someone else’s patterns and continue creating and making because it really helps clear the mind. I wish you happy crocheting future!

Crochet Borders: Learn to Make Awesome Crochet Borders for Different Edgings

Introduction

Anyone that does crochet and knitting knows how big of a difference one border can make. It can transform one simple item to a completely different, elaborate, most beautiful crocheted item one may own. Just like a few decorative pillows add a tremendous difference to a dull-looking sofa, a beautiful border transforms any crocheted piece in the same manner. It looks better, more rounded-up, finished.

I don’t know about other crocheters, but I look at a piece that doesn’t have a border and I’m thinking ‘that’s not finished yet’. I love making nice borders on almost anything. In fact, even if I don’t make a proper border, I at least make a round of single crochet or double crochet stitches so that it gets a nice and even finish. If you don’t want some elaborate borders, you can actually work a round of single crochet stitches followed by a round of double crochet stitches that are worked in the back loops of the single crochet stitches. It makes a great edging and you can add some tassels on the corners to make it more decorative.

Another tip that I would love to give you before you even start going through this book is to make borders for some clothing items. You can do this separately. Chain as many stitches you can fit around your sleeves or wherever you want to attach the border. And then, you can work a round of sc stitches. Then, you can work any type of borders you see here, in this book. It will be easier for you to work a border separately and when you finish and weave in the ends, you can just simply take a needle and thread and sew it onto the piece of clothing you wish. If you are more experienced in crochet, you can attach it immediately by working a sc stitch around the fabric or every once in a while, whatever you prefer.

Whatever you choose, you will notice that a piece of work is not the same with and without a border. Sometimes you have a pattern for a blanket but you hate the border. Here’s the perfect chance to change it. Just pick a pattern and work it into your existing patterns. Improvise! It’s fun!

Happy crocheting!

Chapter 1 – Moss Stitch Border

This is an elegant and easy way to round up your project. This border will look great on almost any project. It is very easy to do and works up quite fast. As you can see, it looks very simple, but classy and elegant. Let’s make it!

For this border, you don’t have to worry about the number of stitches. It is better if you have an odd number of stitches, but it will work on any number of stitches. You have to know just the basics, joining new color, single crochet stitch (sc), and slip stitch and you’re good.  However, even though you don’t have to worry about the number of stitches, you should still have nice and even edges of your base. So, you should work one round of sc stitches, just to make sure you have nice and even edges before you start with your moss stitch border. So, if you’re working on a square or rectangular shape, you should start from a corner.

Join the yarn there and chain three, and then work a sc stitch in the same corner. Then, you will continue working sc stitches all across the side. When you get to the corner, you will work one sc stitch, chain two and work another sc stitch in the same space and continue in the same way all around your piece. When you get to the end of the round, you will finish with a slip stitch to the first chain and then slip stitch into the chain two space. Then, you will chain one and work another sc stitch in the same space, chain two and work one more sc stitch in the same space. Then, you will chain one and skip the next stitch and work a sc stitch in the stitch after that one. You will work this way all around the piece, i.e. you will work a sc stitch, chain one and skip one and work a sc stitch in the stitch after the skipped one.

If you have an odd number of stitches on a side, you should finish the side with one sc stitch worked and one stitch that should be skipped. Then, you will work one chain and one sc stitch in the corner space. And then you will chain two and work another sc stitch in the same space, like you would normally do in a corner. However, if you have an even number of stitches on one side, you will end up working a sc stitch in the last stitch before the corner space. Then, you will have no stitches that could be skipped before the corner. But, you need not worry. You can just chain one and work a sc stitch into the corner space, like you normally would.

It might look different than the rest of the corners, but still, it is a way to compensate for that one missing stitch. You will finish the round like you did the previous one, i.e. you will slip stitch into the first stitch and then slip stitch into the corner space. Then, you will work another round of moss stitch. You will start the new round with chain one and a sc stitch into the corner space. Then, you will chain two and work a sc stitch into the same space.  Then, you will work the same way you did in the previous round, only that you will work sc stitches in the chain one spaces and work chain one and skip the sc stitches.

This way, you don’t have to think about it, just work sc stitches into the chain one spaces and chain one between the sc stitches and that’s it. You can crochet as many rounds you’d like. You will end and begin each new round in the same way you did these earlier. For bigger projects, like blankets, you may want to work ten to eleven rounds and finish the edge with a round of sc stitches all around. In this last round, you will work one sc stitch in the sc stitch space and one in chain one space. And that’s it, nice and elegant way to finish your project.

Chapter 2 – Wave Border

This border is quite interesting looking and again, you can use it for almost any project. It is not too difficult to work and it gives a great contrast if the base of your project has no texture and lays flat. The pattern gives this border a bit of texture and it fits almost any project.

This pattern works in multiples of four stitches. Ideally, if you’re working in a square or rectangular shape, you should be having multiples of four on each side of your piece. However, you may work this pattern even if there’s missing a stitch or two. To start, you’re going to join the yarn at one corner of your piece. You will chain three that will count as one double crochet stitch (dc) and work another dc stitch in the corner space.

Then, you will work two more dc stitches, one in each of the next two stitches. Then, you’re going to chain four and turn your work so that you face the back of your work. Then, you’re going to slip stitch into the top of the chain three you did at the beginning. Turn your work again, so that you see the front of your work. Then, work seven dc stitches in the chain four space.

These seven dc stitches will create the fan/wave effect that looks so good in this pattern. Then, you’re going to work on your next wave. You’re going to work four dc stitches, one in each of the next four stitches. Then, you’re going to chain four, but instead of slip stitching it to the first stitch, you’re going to turn around your work and insert the hook through the space between the clusters of four dc stitches and through the chain four space. Then, you’re going work a slip stitch and chain one to secure the stitches. Turn your work again and work seven dc stitches into the chain four space. You will continue working this way all around your work.

If you are missing a stitch, you can add one at the corner by working two dc stitches into the last stitch and two more in the corner space. As for the corner, you can just work your waves like you normally would. Work two dc stitches into the corner and two in the stitches after, chain four and you can slip stitch like you normally would. However, if you feel like it is pulling your work to the inside, you can insert the hook around the first dc stitch of that cluster and slip stitch there.  See what works best for you. Work the waves all around until you get to the last one. Finish the last wave and slip stitch it into the first stitch, i.e. chain three from the beginning of the round.

Then, you’re going to insert your hook through the first stitch of your first wave and turn your work around. Then, insert your hook like you normally would, through the hole between the clusters and though the chain four space and work a slip stitch through all the loops. You can then pull the yarn tight and fasten it off. Weave in the ends and you’re done!

Chapter 3 – Lacy Border

This border and the type of borders like this one are perfect for blankets and afghans, especially for baby blankets. It is absolutely gorgeous and it will look great on any baby blanket. You will use the same size of a hook you used for the base of your work and most probably the same yarn to match the work.

To begin, you will work a row of sc stitches around your blanket. At the corners, you will work one sc stitch, one chain and one more sc stitch in the same space. You will finish the round with a slip stitch into the first chain one.  Then, you’re going to chain three that will count as a dc stitch and work dc stitches all around your work. This will enable us space to put the ribbon in. when you get to the corner, you will work one dc stitch, chain one and work another dc stitch. You will finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the first dc stitch, not chain three. You should preferably have 10 stitches left before you reach the corner.

In case you don’t you can slip stitch until you do. Then, you’re going to chain three and work two more dc stitches in the same space. You will then chain one and work another three dc stitches in the same space. Then, you’re going to skip two stitches and work a dc stitch in the third one. You’re going to skip another two stitches and in the third ne, you’re going to make another fan. You’re going to work three dc stitches, chain one and another three dc stitches in the same stitch.

Then, you’re going to skip another two stitches and work a dc stitch in the last stitch before the corner. In the corner space, you’re going to work a fan, i.e. you’re going to work three dc stitches, chain one and another three dc stitches. Then, you’re going to work a dc stitch in the following stitch, skip two stitches and work a fan in the third one. Repeat this pattern all around the work. Now, if you happen to have one stitch less before you get to the corner, don’t worry, you can fix it. When you get to the corner you should finish a fan and have three stitches left before the corner space. You will skip two and work a dc stitch into the third stitch.

Now, if you have only two left, don’t worry. You will unravel the last fan and the dc post before it. You will work the dc post in the second, not the third stitch and then proceed like everything is perfect. An opposite situation is if you have one stitch extra. You get to the corner and after you finish the last fan, you have four stitches left. That’s okay too. Just work the dc post in the fourth stitch and that’s it.

This row will be completed by a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the row. In the next round, you’re going to slip stitch until you get to the center of the first fan, i.e. chain one space. There, you will chain three and work another two dc stitches, chain one and work three more dc stitches in the same space. Then, you’re going to work a front post dc stitch around the dc stitch.

You will do this by inserting the hook around the dc post and pulling up a loop from there and work a dc stitch. You will repeat working fans in chain one spaces of the fans from the previous round and front post stitches around dc posts from the previous round. When you get to the corner, you’re going to work a front post dc stitch around the first dc stitch and work four dc stitches, chain one and another four dc stitches in the same chain one space of the corner.

This way, you will increase the size and the border won’t pull the blanket inside. Again, you will work a front post dc stitch around the fourth dc stitch of the corner from the previous round. Continue working fans and front post dc stitches all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch to the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round.

In the fifth round, you’re going to slip stitch until you get to the chain one space. There, you will chain three and work two more dc stitches, chain one and work another three dc stitches. You will repeat everything like you did in the previous round. When you get to the corner, you will increase the number of dc stitches by two. This means that you will work five dc stitches, chain one and another five dc stitches in the same chain space.Continue working around your piece. You will finish the round with a slip stitch to the top of your chain three from the beginning of the round.

Then, you can continue working as many rows as you’d like, just make sure that you increase the number of stitches at the corners. In case you want to finish, like here, you will chain three and work a sc stitch in the next stitch, chain three and work a sc stitch in the next stitch.Then, you will chain three and work a sc stitch in the chain space, chain three and work another sc stitch in the chain space. You will then chain three and work a sc stitch in the next stitch, chain three and another sc in the next stitch. You will work around each shell or fan this way.

When you get to the dc post, you will work a front post sc stitch around that stitch. It will give it a nice and frilly look and it is gorgeous. Now, you only need to pull the ribbon through the second round where you did all dc stitches all around. You will do this using a tapestry needle. Tie a knot and a bow at every corner and sew on one more bow on top of it for a more beautiful look.

Chapter 4 – Shell Border

There are so many variations on this topic. There are bigger shells, smaller, lacier, less lacy, etc. I will give you two of those variations to choose from. One is smaller and thicker, and the other is a bit larger and lacier.

Let’s start with the first one. It is best for both of these borders to flatten and straighten out the edges by working sc stitches all around the work. Then, you will chain one and work one sc stitch in the same space. Then, you’re going to skip one stitch and work five sc stitches in the second stitch. Then, skip one stitch and work one sc stitch in the next one.

Repeat the pattern all around. Don’t worry if there isn’t a shell at each corner. Just work your best and you will most probably be the only one that notices the differences and possible mistakes. You can also skip two stitches each time you make a shell or you need to start a shell. This way you will get a bit wider shells, but also you will have a smaller number of shells overall. Anyway, it is all according to your preference.

The other way is again to work a round of sc stitches. Then, you’re going to work chains of three and slip stitch them into every second stitch. When you finish this round, you will chain four and work seven treble crochet (tc) stitches and chain one between them. You will work those stitches in the first chain three loop.Then, you’re going to skip the next loop and slip stitch or work a sc stitch into the next loop.

Then, skip the next chain loop and work another shell in the following one. Work this way all around and end the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain four that you did at the beginning of the round. Then, you’re going to work chains of three and slip stitch them into each stitch to give the shells the frilly effect you see on this border. Once you finish the round, slip stitch into the beginning and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends and you’re done!

Chapter 5 – Lovely Wavy Border

This type of borders can again be used in a number of ways. You can decide yourself for which project to use this border. It is nice and elegant. You can use it for scarves, blankets, table runners, like in the photo, etc.

To begin, you will need to have straight sides. In the case of this table runner, you would first chain between the flower motifs to create the edging on which to work and then work a round of dc stitches. When you get to the corner, you will work five dc stitches into the corner. Finish the round by working dc stitches all around. Then, you will chain three and work two more dc stitches, one in each of the following two stitches. Then, you will skip one stitch and chain one and work three dc stitches.

You will repeat this for the entire round, i.e. you will work a cluster of three dc stitches followed by chain one and skip one stitch. When you get to the corner, you will chain three instead of chain one and continue. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round.

In the next round, you will work dc stitches all around. You will work seven dc stitches into each corner where you chained three earlier. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round.  Then, in the next round, you will work two dc stitches together (one of them will be chain three), chain five and skip five stitches and work two dc stitches together. You will continue working this way all around. You will finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round.

In the next round, you will slip stitch into the chain space and chain three. Work one more dc stitch there and chain five. You will then work two dc stitches in the same chain five space, only separated from the first two and then skip the two dc together and work two more dc stitches in the next chain space. Continue working this way all around, i.e. chain five and work four dc stitches, two on each side of the two dc together. Finish the round with two dc stitches and a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round.

In the next round, you will slip stitch into the chain five space. There, you will chain three and work four more dc stitches in the same chain space. Then, you’re going to work a picot stitch. This stitch is basically chain three and slip stitch into the first of the three chain stitches. Then, you’re going to work five more dc stitches into the same chain space you did five dc stitches before. You will repeat this for all of the chain five spaces, skipping all the dc stitches you did in the previous round. When you get to the corner, you will work seven dc stitches, a picot stitch and another seven dc stitches.

The previous two rounds didn’t make any differences with respect to the execution of the corners. You needed to do as with the rest of the rounds. When you finish the round of waves or shells, you need to slip stitch into the top of the chain three and fasten off the yarn. You will then weave in the ends and you’re done decorating your piece. What you may add is ribbon if you’re working on a baby blanket, just to make it even cuter.

Chapter 6 – Pom Pom Edging

This edging is perfect for afghans, blankets, washcloths, even some pieces of clothing that you think need some edging around the sleeves or somewhere else. You can basically use it for anything and it is simple but effective. It really adds a different look to the item.

To begin, you will join the yarn at any place you want. Then, you will chain six and return to the third chain to work half of the pom pom. You will work three dc stitches together in that chain stitch. You will do that in the following way: yarn over, insert your hook into the third chain and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull the yarn through two loops, leaving two loops on the hook. Repeat the process two more times. Once you have four loops on the hook, i.e. three unfinished dc stitches, you will yarn over and pull through all of the loops.

Then, you will chain three again and return to the first of the three chains and work another three unfinished dc stitches there. You will finish them in the same way you did the first part. Fold the two parts of the puff and slip stitch into the bottom of the first part of the puff. Then, you will chain three and work a sc stitch separating the two chains but not too much. Repeat the pattern all around your work and you have a simple and fun edging that suits everything.

Chapter 7 – Lovely Lace Border

Again, this is one of those patterns of borders that you can use for whatever project you want. You can either make it on its own and sew onto some piece of clothing or work it directly onto the item you were crocheting, whatever suits your needs.

For this border, you will need to have multiples of 16 stitches and add two more stitches. So, if you’re making this border to sew onto something, you will chain multiples of 16 and add two more chain stitches that will count as a sc stitch. If you’re working on a blanket, for example, you will count the stitches so that you have multiples of 16 and you will add one chain when you start a row of sc stitches, which is the next step.

So, for the first round, you will work a round or a row of sc stitches. If you’re working in rows, you will turn your work and chain five. You will skip one stitch and work a sc in the second stitch. Then, you’re going to chain five, skip three stitches and work a sc stitch in the fourth stitch. You will continue doing this all across. Then, when you get to the end, you will chain three and work a dc stitch in the last stitch. In the next row, you will chain one and work a sc stitch in the same space. You will then chain five and work a sc stitch in the middle of next chain five space.

Then, you’re going to work eight dc stitches in the next chain five loop and a sc stitch in the following loop. You will then chain five and work a sc stitch in the next loop. Then, you will chain five and work a sc stitch in the next loop. Then, you will work eight dc stitches in the next loop and continue working this way all across. Finish the row with a chain five and a sc stitch in the last loop. Then, you will turn your work and begin the fourth round with chain five and a sc stitch in the first loop. You will then work dc stitches in each of the dc stitch from the previous round and separate them with chain one.

So, you will work one dc stitch, one chain, one dc, one chain, etc. When you finish that, you will work a sc stitch in the next loop. Then, you will chain five and work a sc stitch in the next loop. You will then again work one dc, one chain in dc stitches from previous round. Continue repeating this pattern all across. Finish the row with a sc after the fan.  Then, you will chain two and work a dc stitch in the sc stitch from before that is places on the edge. You will then turn your work and chain one and work a sc stitch in the dc stitch. You will then work three dc stitches together.

Then, you will chain three and slip stitch into the first chain to make a picot stitch. Then, chain two and work three dc stitches together in the next chain one space. You will work this way all around the fan. Then, you will work a sc stitch in the chain five loop and continue working the next fan. You will again work three dc stitches together, a picot stitch and chain two in each chain one space. Work this way across and finish the row with a sc stitch into the last loop. Then, you only need to fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. Cutest border ever, right?

Conclusion

Now that you have seen and maybe worked some of the patterns, I hope that you found them useful and that you maybe got inspired to create some of your own. I would encourage you to try and change some parts of the patterns to create something completely new and unseen.  That’s how many creations come to life, right? Someone somewhere decides to change things up a bit and creates something that the entire world loves. Why wouldn’t that someone be you?

The best thing in my opinion is that you can use these patterns for almost any project. It is a good beginners/classic collection of borders that you can use over and over again. Regardless of what your crochet project is, you can choose at least one pattern that would suit your project. From that point of view, it is a great investment, isn’t it? I hope that you enjoy the patterns and that you found them useful and fun to work.

Even if you don’t have much experience in crochet, there are still ways to make your projects look like a professional had made them. You probably noticed the tips I gave you to compensate for number of stitches in many patterns. All you need to do is improvise. I wish you lots of successful crochet projects!

Crochet:

Kaleidoscope Projects: Shapes, Colours, Textures and Patterns To Inspire and Admire!

Introduction

In case you were looking for a short e-book with some interesting and colorful projects that you can make quickly, search no more. Here it is! Here, in this book, you will find fun, creative ways to decorate your home and maybe life. You know what I mean. When you see colors around you, you feel happier, and when you feel happier, your life is better. It is just a sequence of dominos that will eventually move to bigger and happier moments in life. So, if you were looking for such projects, here they are.

These projects are perfect for people who have lots and lots of yarn scraps and have no idea what to do with it. Here are some of the ideas for how to use your scraps of yarn, but also, I’d like to inspire and challenge you to create some patterns on your own. It is really not that hard, especially if you have some previous experience with crocheting in rounds. Just combine colors with patterns. See what works and what not and I’m sure that you will make some extraordinary pieces.

However, if you don’t have much spare yarn, there’s a perfect excuse to buy some more, right? You can never have enough of yarn. That’s what everyone that knits and crochets knows. Apart from that, these patterns are quite simple and easy to work and almost everyone can make these items.

Even if you are a beginner, the patterns are written in a simple and easy to understand manner. There aren’t any difficult abbreviations that you may misunderstand. Everything is clear and simple. I hope that you will enjoy these projects and that you will come back to this book many times in the future because these projects are just one of those that you can make at any age, for practically everyone. These would make wonderful gifts too.

Happy crocheting everyone!

Chapter 1 – Granny Kaleidoscope Blanket

This blanket is somewhat simple if you just look at it, but there is a twist to it. It is definitely not a usual piece of granny square blanket. Especially if you are using contrasting colors to make it more interesting.

To begin, you will need to work six rounds of granny square pattern. In its essence, granny squares are made by working clusters of three double crochet (dc) stitches separated by chain two. Some people like to chain just one stitch between the clusters, so that the granny square looks a bit tighter, which is why we’re going to work that way in this project.

However, if you prefer to chain two between the clusters, just change every chain one into chain two and you’re good. So, you will chain six and slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring. Then, you’re going to chain three and work two more dc stitches. Then, you’re going to chain two to form a corner and work another granny square cluster. Repeat the sequence chain two and granny clusters two more times.

So, when you finish your fourth cluster, you will chain two and slip stitch into the third chain from the beginning of the round. Then, you’re going to start your second round by chain three that will count as one dc and chain one more as a separation between the clusters.

You need to work one dc cluster into the chain two space and you’re going to chain two for the corner and work one more dc cluster in the same chain two space. You will continue working this way all around. You will finish the round with one full cluster, chain two and two more dc stitches in the same, last chain two space. You have already one dc stitch, which is your chain three from the beginning of the round.

So, you will then slip stitch into the third chain of the four you’ve done at the beginning of the round. Then, you’re going to fasten off the yarn and join in a different color yarn. You can join the new color at any chain space. If you join it at the side of the square, you will chain three and work two more dc stitches in the same space. Then, you will chain one and work a corner.

In this pattern, you always increase the size of the piece by working a corner. The corner is done in the following way: one granny cluster, chain two, one more cluster in the same space. Then, you chain one and work a cluster in the next chain space. Finish the round with chain one slip stitched in the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round.

You will work one more round using this color and fasten off the yarn and join a new color. Then, you will work two more rows of the next color. This is basically how you’re going to change colors, i.e. every two rows. Then, we come to the fun part. When you’ve completed six rows of the granny square pattern, you will fasten off the yarn. Take a completely new color of yarn and you will find the middle chain space on one side of your granny square.

You’re going to join your new color at the beginning of the cluster that was done before that middle chain space. You’re going to chain one and work a sc stitch into the same space. Then, you’re going to work a corner into the middle chain space. So, you’re going to work a dc cluster, chain two and another dc cluster, all in the same chain space. Then, you’re going to slip stitch into the third dc stitch of the cluster that is next to the chain space you’ve worked in.

Next, you’re going to chain two and work a sc stitch in the middle stitch of the next cluster, which is third stitch from the one you’ve worked. Then, you will turn your work and work two more dc stitches in the space between the cluster and the granny square. This way, you will create a first cluster for this round. Then, you’re going to chain one and work a cluster in the corner chain space.

You’re going to chain two again to form a corner and work another cluster in the same space. Then, you’re going to chain one and work a dc cluster in the space where you worked a sc stitch when you joined the yarn. Then, you’re going to slip stitch into the third stitch from the stitch you’ve worked in, which is the middle stitch of the next cluster, and fasten off the yarn.

Then, you will join in a new color three stitches to the right, which is the last worked stitch of the corner cluster and you’re going to work a sc stitch. You will work three dc stitches into the space where you’ve finished your previous color. Then, you will chain one and work a dc cluster in the chain space. Then, you’re going to chain one and work a corner into the chain two space.

Then, you’re going to chain one and work a cluster in the following chain space, chain one and work a cluster in the space at the end of the triangle. And to finish the row, you’re going to slip stitch into the first stitch of the corner cluster. Then, you’re going to chain three and turn your work. You’re going to work two more dc stitches into the same space.

Then, chain one and work the usual granny square pattern. You will work the corner as you did previously. When you get to the end of the row, you’re going to work a dc cluster into the space between the triangle and the base granny square. Then, you’re going to chain one and fasten off the yarn. Next, you need to do the other three sides of the granny square, just like this one. To connect the triangles, you’re going to slip stitch every triangle into the third chain of the chain three of the fourth round.

You’re going to connect every triangle to its left neighbor. Do not bother connecting it to the corner yet. We’re going to handle it in a minute. Join in a new color at any corner you want and chain three. Work another two dc stitches, chain two to form a corner and work another dc cluster. Continue working granny pattern all around.

When you get to the connection between the triangles, you’re going to work, not only through the loop that connects the triangles, but also through the corner of the base granny square. Then, you just continue to work the regular granny square pattern through this one and the following round. Then, you will fasten off the yarn and join a new color at the middle. In fact, you’re going to find the middle chain space and move three stitches to the right and join the new color.

Chain one and work a sc stitch in the same space. Then, work a corner in the chain space and basically repeat all that you’ve done previously. The important thing is to stop once you reach the corner clusters and to connect the triangles as you did previously. You can play with this pattern and work this way to whatever size you want or you can make several smaller ones and connect them later, whatever you prefer. Awesome, isn’t it?

Chapter 2 – Crochet Mandala Kaleidoscope

This pattern can be used in so many ways. You can use it as a potholder, as an appliqué or as a décor in your room. You can make it as colorful as you want and the best thing about it is that it does not lay flat. It has some parts that are sticking out a bit, so that it gives a bit of a 3D effect. If you want to follow the pattern as it was done in the photo, you should use five different colors of yarn.

To begin, you will need to make a magic ring and chain three. Then, you’re going to work eleven more dc stitches into the ring. To finish the round, you’re going to tighten the magic ring and slip stitch into the top of the chain three you did at the beginning of the round. You’re going to fasten off the yarn and take a different color of yarn. You’re going to join the yarn in any space between the dc stitches and chain one.

Then, you’re going to work a single crochet (sc) stitch in the same space and chain two. Then, you’re going to work a sc stitch in the next space between the dc stitches.Repeat the pattern all around. To finish the round, you’re going to chain two and slip stitch into the first sc stitch you did

Then, you’re going to fasten off the yarn and join in the next color. You can join the new color in any of the chain two spaces, it doesn’t matter. You will chain three and work two more unfinished dc stitches in the same chain two space. You will then finish them so that they are three dc stitches worked together.

Then, you will chain three and work the next three dc stitches together in the next chain loop. Repeat this all around. To finish the round, you will chain three and slip stitch into the top of the first three dc together. You will then fasten off the yarn and change colors. Join in the new color in any of the chain spaces and chain three. Then, you’re going to work four more dc stitches in the same space. Continue working five dc stitches in each of the chain spaces around your piece.

Finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round. Fasten off the yarn. Then, you will work a round of V stitches around this last round. You will make a slipknot and pull it through one of the spaces between the dc stitches. Then, you will insert the hook in the space between the next two dc stitches and pull up a loop and pull it through the loop on the hook. You will do this all around.

To finish this decorative round, you will work the last dc stitch and pull up and through another loop and then pull it on the other, back side and fasten it off there. Then, you will add a new color and chain five. Three of the chains count as a dc and the other two are there for separation. Then, you will skip one stitch and work a dc stitch in the stitch after and repeat this all around. Finish the round with chain two slip stitched into the third chain of the five you made at the beginning of the round.

Then, you will fasten off the yarn and join in a new one in any of the stitches that were skipped. You will do this by folding towards yourself the round you just did and you will repeat the same what you did with your last color, only that you will work in the skipped stitches and skip the ones that were done in the previous round.

Then, you will join a new color. You will join it in the loops. So, you need to hold both loops and tie a knot and start from there. Chain three and work two more dc stitches in the same loop. It is important that you work through both loops all around. Then, you will move to the next loop and work three dc stitches and continue this way all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the top of the chain three from the beginning of the round and fasten off the yarn.

Then, you will join a new color. You will join it in between the sets of three dc stitches and you will need to make a knot, just to make it more secure. Then, you will work one chain and one sc stitch into the same space. Then, you will chain four and work a sc stitch in the next space between the sets of dc stitches. Work this way all around and finish with a slip stitch into the first sc stitch of this round.

Then, you won’t fasten off the yarn, but you will work one more round using the same color. Then, you will work the following sequence: one half-double crochet (hdc) stitch, three dc stitches and one more hdc stitch. You will work the sequence in each of the chain loops you did in the previous round. Repeat it all around the piece.

Finish the round with a slip stitch into the first hdc stitch and fasten off the yarn. Then, you will join a new color at the top of one ‘petal’, that is in the middle stitch. You will then chain five and work a sc stitch in the middle of the next ‘petal’. Work this way all around the work.

Finish the round with a slip stitch into the same stitch you’ve joined the yarn and then work the following sequence in the first chain five loop: one sc stitch, one hdc stitch, three dc stitches, one hdc stitch and one sc stitch. Repeat the sequence for each and every chain five loop. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the first sc stitch and fasten off the yarn.

Then, you will join a new color in between the petals you just did. You will chain five very loose chain stitches and work a sc stitch in the middle dc stitch of the next set of three stitches you did a couple of rounds ago. Then, you will again chain five loose stitches and work a sc stitch in the sc stitch after two petals you did in the previous round. Then, you will chain five and skip one set of three and work a sc stitch in the middle dc stitch of the next set of three dc stitches.

This will form a heart shape all around the work, or one may see it as some sort of popping petals. Work this way all around and finish the round with a slip stitch into the first chain you did. Fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. What a lovely piece, isn’t it?

Chapter 3 – Kaleidoscope Coasters

This pattern is very simple but it is absolutely adorable. The colors and the pattern make it look so good. See it for yourself.

You will first make a magic ring using the first color. Then, you will chain one that won’t count as a stitch and then work 12 sc stitches in the magic ring. You will then tighten the ring and slip stitch to the first sc stitch and fasten off the yarn. In the second round, you will join the second color of yarn to any stitch you’d like and chain two, which will count as a hdc stitch.Then, you will work another hdc stitch in the same space, chain one and skip one stitch and work two hdc stitches in the next stitch. Then, you will chain one, skip one stitch and again work two hdc stitches in the next one.

Repeat this all around. You will finish the round with a slip stitch into the second chain from the beginning of the round and fasten off the second yarn. In the third round, you will join the third color into any chain one space and you will chain two. Then, you will work a spike dc stitch in the sc stitch from the first round. Then, work a hdc stitch, chain two and repeat the following pattern: hdc stitch, spike dc stitch, hdc stitch, all in the next chain two space and then chain two. Repeat this pattern all around, join with a slip stitch and fasten off the yarn.

In the fourth round, you will join the fourth color into any chain two space and chain three. Then, you will work a spike dc stitch in between the two dc stitches from the second round, work a dc stitch in the same space and chain three. Then, you will repeat the following pattern all around: one dc stitch, one spice dc, one dc stitch, all done in the next chain two space and then chain three. Finish the round with a slip stitch and fasten off the yarn

In the fifth round, you will join the fifth round into any chain three space. Then, you will work the following in the same chain three space: chain three, one dc stitch, one spike dc into the center dc of the three dc set from the third round and work two more dc stitches. Then, you will chain three and work the following all around: two dc stitches, one spike dc and two more dc stitches, all in one chain three space and then chain three. Repeat this all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch and fasten off the yarn.

In the sixth round, you will join the second yarn into the first dc stitch from the set of five dc stitches from the fifth round. Then, you will chain three and work four dc stitches, one in each of the following four stitches. Then, you will repeat the following pattern all around: chain four and work five dc stitches, one in each of the five dc stitches from the previous round. Finish the round with a slip stitch and fasten off the yarn.

In the seventh round, you will join the fourth yarn into the first dc stitch of the five dc stitches from the previous round and you will chain two. Then, you will work hdc stitches in the next four stitches and chain two. Work a spike dc stitch in the center of the three dc set from the fourth round and chain two. Then, you will repeat the following pattern: five hdc stitches, chain two, spike dc stitch, chain two. Repeat this pattern all around, finish the round with a slip stitch and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends and you’re done! Pretty gorgeous, don’t you think?

Chapter 4 – Kaleidoscope Crochet Shawl

One of the things I feel is a must-have at almost any point in your life is definitely a nice, warm shawl. It comes in handy at any time of the year. Even if you’re experiencing heat throughout the day, nights can be quite chilly so it is perfect to get nice and warm.

This pattern is quite easy to work and anyone can do it. It is beginner friendly. So, to begin, you will make a magic ring and work eight sc stitches into the ring. Then, you will tighten the ring and slip stitch into the first sc stitch you did. Then, for the second round, you will chain five, three chains will count as a dc and the other two are for separation.

Then, you will work one dc stitch in the next stitch and chain two. Continue working this way all around. Finish the round with chain two slip stitched into the third chain of the five you made at the beginning of the round. You will then fasten off the yarn and join in a different color. You will join the new color in any chain two space.

You will then chain four that will count as one treble crochet (tc) stitch and work three more trebles in the same space. Then, you’re going to chain three and work another set of four tc stitches in the next chain two space. You will then chain five and work another set of four tc stitches. So, you will work sets of four tc stitches and alternate chain three and chain five between them. This will create the square shape of the motif.

When you create the second motif, you will connect them as you go, i.e. you will connect them using the chain three and chain five spaces. It is quite easy; you can just pull the chain three or five through the chain space and continue working the round. When you finish with as many squares as you want, you can work a border, like the one you see in the picture. It is just a whole lot of chains and you’re done!

Chapter 5 – Kaleidoscope Crochet Pillowcase

This pillowcase pattern is so gorgeous that you’ll definitely want to make one. It is very easy to make and you can choose whatever colors you like.

To begin, you will chain four and work a slip stitch into the first chain to make a ring. Or, you can make a magic ring, whatever you prefer. Then, you will chain four, one chain will count as a sc stitch and the other three will be for the chain loop.

Then, you will work a sc stitch into the ring and continue working chain three and sc stitch five more times so that you are left with six chain loops. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the first chain of the round and fasten off the yarn. Next, you will join the new color in any of the chain loops. You will chain six for the first loop.

The first chain will count as a sc stitch. Then, you will work a sc stitch into the following chain loop and continue working five chains and a sc stitch all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the first chain you made in this round. Then, you will chain one and work six more sc stitches into the first loop. Continue working seven sc stitches in each chain five loop. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the first chain.

Then, you will fasten off the yarn and join the new color in the same place. You will then chain two, skip one stitch and work a sc stitch in the next one, and do this all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch. Then, in the next round, you will chain four and work a sc stitch in the sc stitch from the previous round. Then, chain five and work a sc stitch in the following one, chain three and work a sc stitch in the one after.

So, this is what you will do for every petal, i.e. you will make three loops, two smaller loops on the sides and one bigger in the middle. Finish the round with a slip stitch and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends. Make dozens of these and connect them as you go. Choose different colors and the pattern will turn out even more beautiful than it is.

Chapter 6 – Kaleidoscope Flower Potholder

This is a simple yet gorgeous pattern for a potholder. I am sure that almost everyone will like it.

To begin, you will chain five and slip stitch to make a ring. Then, you will chain four and work three more tc stitches. Then, you will chain five and work another set of four tc stitches, repeat this two more times. You are supposed to have four sets of four tc stitches. Finish the round with chain five slip stitched into the fourth chain from the beginning of the round.

Fasten off the yarn. Then, you will join in a new color in the chain five loop and you will chain three. Then, you will work as many dc stitches you can fit. I’d recommend somewhere between eight and ten, but if you’re using a thinner yarn than the previous one, you might fit more than ten. Finish the round with a slip stitch and fasten off the yarn. Make four more of these.

Then, take a different color and join at the space between the petals. Work sc stitch in every stitch around two petals. Then, you will take another piece and join at the same space between the petals. Again work around the two petals. Continue doing this until you form a circle with the five pieces.

Then move to the inner side and work sc stitches around that side too. When you finish, fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. Then, you will take a needle and a thread and start sewing the pieces together. So, you will take one side of one petal and the adjacent side of the following petal and sew them together along the lower line of the dc stitches.

Then, move to the other side of one of those petals and take the adjacent side of the following petal and do the same as you did for the previous one. As you can see, it is very simple, but one doesn’t see that at first glance. Connect all the petals and you have the most beautiful kaleidoscope potholder.

Conclusion

So, we’ve come to the end of this short but sweet book. I hope you like it and that you will enjoy working on these projects. As you were able to see, these projects are not difficult, but they will give you maximum pleasure and joy while you’re working on their completion.

These projects are fun, colorful and really useful regardless whether you’re making them for yourself or someone you care about. Each and every project that is written in this book is useful in its own manner, but you can alter them to make something else.

You can always try to improvise and create something completely new. Let’s take the first pattern, the granny square blanket. You can take the idea and work from the lightest color, i.e. white, through, say, blue and move to the darker shades all the way to black color. Imagine the contrast and the illusion it could make using just different colors in any of these projects.

The ideas are endless; you just have to set free your imagination. Give freedom to your ideas and your imagination and you can succeed in making whatever you wish for.

I wish you lots of successful crochet projects. Happy crocheting!

Bavarian Crochet:

Trendy Bavarian Projects With Easy and Clear Instructions

Introduction

So, you’ve decided to learn how to work Bavarian crochet? Welcome to a short, but helpful book that will show you how to successfully crochet in Bavarian stitches. Patterns including Bavarian stitch may seem intimidating, but in fact, once you learn them, you will have no trouble working this type of crochet stitches on any project.  Depending on how you look at these, you will see circles or squares. However, these are in fact squares that consist of four clusters of four stitches that are separated by chain one on each corner.

So, basically it is a slightly alternated granny square. That is how one complete square looks like. But, there is a secret to it how to make one. It is not as simple as a granny square beginning. Each one of these are actually made triangle by triangle. In other words, you first crochet one half of the square and then the other. You will see that later on, when we start with the actual project patterns. When it comes to the squares that are worked on corners of your piece, you won’t make half of the square because it wouldn’t fit as naturally.But, instead, you will work only one fourth, i.e. one cluster of the entire square in the first round and then, in the second round, you will work the remaining three fourths to complete the square.

What else is important is that you can combine any colors of yarn as long as they are of similar thickness and that you work with a corresponding size of a hook. Ideally, you should use the yarns of the same type and thickness, so that the only difference is the color, but, you may use even a bit different and you won’t mess up the project.Also, when it comes to the color combinations, you don’t have to use the same color for two rounds, you can crochet halves in different colors.

It really depends on what you find that works best for you and your project. Personally, I think that the best effect is accomplished by working both rounds in one color and then changing it to another color. However, you can also work these in one color and that looks great too.

I haven’t tried working these stitch patterns with gradient yarns, but I think it would definitely be gorgeous.So, again, it all depends on what you like most. That is why you need to practice and work several different combination samples and see what you prefer.  I will share more tips and tricks in the project patterns along the way, so, let’s start with our projects! Happy crocheting y’all!

Chapter 1 – Bavarian Crochet Blanket

This is the most basic and the most widespread pattern you will probably see and recognize that it was made using this type of stitch. Even though it may be considered as a classic, it is very beautiful and breathtaking. You will see it yourself once you start working on this project.

To begin, you will need to make a slipknot and chain five stitches. Then, you’re going to join the last chain stitch with the first one by a slip stitch and that will be the center of your blanket or an afghan. Then, you will chain one and work a single crochet (sc) stitch. Then, you will chain five and work four unfinished treble crochet (tc) stitches into the ring.

This would mean that you will yarn over twice and pull up the yarn through the ring, and then pull the yarn through two loops twice, so that you are left with two loops on your hook, i.e. one from before and one from the unfinished tc stitch. Work three more of these so that you have five loops on your hook and then you will take your yarn and pull it through all five loops on your hook.

Then, you will chain five and work a sc stitch into the ring. You will repeat this three more times, so that you have four clusters of four tc stitches, rounded with chains of five stitches. You will finish the round with a slip stitch into the first sc stitch you did in this round.

For the second round, you will chain one and work a sc stitch into the same space. Then, you will chain two and find the stitch where you did the trebles together. In that same stitch, you are going to work the rest of your clusters. So, you will first work four trebles into that stitch, chain one and work another cluster of four tc stitches, chain one and work one more cluster of tc stitches. This way, you will have finished one square and you need to work three more to finish this round.

Then, you will chain two and work a sc stitch into the sc stitch between the clusters. Then, you will begin finishing the second square. You will chain two and, just like you did previously, find the stitch where you did the trebles together and in that same stitch, you are going to work your clusters of four tc stitches separated by a chain one. You will, again, work three clusters and finish the square with chain two and a sc stitch in the sc stitch you did in the previous round. Finish the other two squares in the same manner. You will finish the round with chain two and a slip stitch into the sc stitch you did at the beginning of the round.

Then, you will fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends so that you don’t have problems with them later on.  Then, you will join the new color. You will take your piece and examine one of the squares. If you pull the clusters apart, you will notice easier where each starts and ends. You will join the new color after the second cluster, i.e. you will start the new round after the first cluster you did in the second round. So, you will join your new color there. You can choose whichever method or technique of joining new yarn color you prefer and you are going to work a sc stitch in the same space.

Then, you will chain five and you will work your first cluster. This part actually resembles the first round you did, but in this case, you will be working around the posts from back. This means that you will yarn over twice, like you would normally, but, you are going to insert your hook through the loop where you joined yarn, but from back and then around the first post and to the back again through the space between the first and the second post.

Then, yarn over and pull up a loop and finish the stitch until you have two loops on your hook. You will stop there because you will work the trebles together, just like you did in the first round. Work the other three tc stitches in the same manner. When you do the unfinished tc stitches, you will have five loops on your hook. You will then pull the yarn through all five loops and chain five.

Then, you will work a sc stitch in the chain one space right after the cluster you just did. Then, you come to the sides of your work. There, you will fill up the halves of the squares. You will do that by working eight tc stitches together. But, first, you will chain five and then yarn over twice, insert your hook around the first post, but from the back on the right side to the front and then to the back again on the left side of the post.

Then, work your unfinished tc stitch, leaving two loops on the hook. Continue working other three stitches on this side. When you get to the middle part, you will just skip all that and continue working on the other side in the same manner you did the right side. Once you are done with eight unfinished tc stitches, you should have nine loops on your hook.

You will then yarn over and pull through all of the nine loops and chain five. Then, you will work a sc stitch in the chain one space. This way, you have finished half of the square that is on the side of your work. Then, you get to the corner part, again, and you will work only one cluster. So, you will chain five and work four tc stitches together. Again, you will be working around the posts, just like you did before.

Then, you will chain five and work a sc stitch in the chain one space. Next, you are going to work half of the square. You will do this by chain five, followed by working eight tc stitches together and finish with chain five and a sc stitch in the chain one space. Then, you will work the third corner, etc. Work your way all around the piece.

So, you will finish your last half of the square for this round with a chain five and instead of working a sc stitch as you normally do, you will finish the round with a slip stitch you did at the beginning of the round. For the next round, you will chain one and work a sc stitch in the same space. Then, you will finish the remaining clusters of the squares.

First, you have a corner square. There, you need to work three clusters. So, you will find the stitch where you did four tc stitches together and in that stitch, you will work four tc stitches, chain one, work four tc stitches, chain one and repeat once more the cluster of four tc stitches. Then, you will work a sc stitch in the sc stitch from the previous round.

Then, you will finish the half of the square. You will do this by working a cluster of four tc stitches, chain one and work another cluster of four tc stitches. Then, you need to work a sc stitch in the sc stitch from the previous round. Continue finishing squares all around your piece. Finish the round with a slip stitch in the sc stitch from the beginning of the round. Fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends.

Of course, you can leave the ends and weave them in at the end, but I think it is much easier and practical if you do it after you have finished each color. It will take off the amount of work that needs to be done once you finish your afghan or blanket, whatever you choose to make. Then, just like you did with the previous color, you will join the new color at the second cluster of any corner. You will find the first cluster you did in the previous round and right after that one, in the chain one space, you will join your new color.

You will start from there and work one cluster only for the corner.  Then, you will work one half of the square in the triangular space, sc stitch, work another one in the next triangular space and work a corner. It is really simple if you can remember that in the first round of any color, you will work one cluster of four tc stitches together in all of the corners and on the sides, you will work eight tc stitches together, which forms half of the squares.

Of course, in this round, you will work from the back, around the posts and back again to pull up loops for each stitch. The next round is, of course, finishing those squares.So, in the corner ones, you need to work three more clusters separated by chain one and in the middle ones, you need to work two more clusters separated by chain one in each square.

To continue, you will follow this pattern I already explained and it is basically just a pattern that will be repeated all around in each new color you join. The pattern is really beautiful and once you get the hang of it, you will be ready to create wonderful items.

Chapter 2 – Bavarian Crochet Pillowcase

This chapter here is just to give you guidelines on how you can achieve something different than a blanket or an afghan using the same pattern you did. Using this pattern here you can get a really beautiful, textured, unique pillowcase that will be a great accent décor in your living room or bedroom.

Of course, you can make it as big or as small you want to. You can also use whatever colors you prefer as long as they match your interior design. As you may have noticed, you will be doing the pattern you did for the afghan until you have four color changes. This is for 12” size pillow. If you want bigger, just change colors once or twice or as many times you’d like. For a pillow case, you need to make two identical pieces of crochet work. Or, you can work sc or double crochet (dc) stitches in the back side of the pillowcase.

Though, I prefer that both sides are the same. That way, you will have no trouble rotating the pillow each time someone leaves it the wrong way. Once you have your two pieces, you will lay them on top of each other so that they face wrong sides to each other. Then, take the color you worked with earlier and join it through both layers. Chain one and work sc stitches all around.

When you have finished three sides of your pillow case, you will insert the pillow into the case and then finish the fourth side of the case. When you get to the end, you will fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends. It is really a simple and easy to do project that you can finish in no time. Especially if you have mastered Bavarian stitch in the previous project.

Chapter 3 – Bavarian Crochet Potholders

Now these are just the ones everyone and I mean everyone needs to have in their kitchen. These potholders which can serve as dishcloths are just the perfect items for every kitchen. They are so stylish and wonderful. And, they’re quite simple to make. Just follow the instructions.

So, first, we’re going to learn how to make a rectangular one. It is similar to the ones you’ve already done, but, the beginning part is a bit different. So, first, you will make a slipknot and chain 15 stitches. Then, you will yarn over and work three tc stitches into the fourth chain stitch from the hook. This will total in four tc stitches. Then, you will chain one and work another cluster of four tc stitches in the same stitch space. Then, you will skip three chain stitches and work a sc stitch into the fourth chain stitch.

You will then skip three chain stitches and work a cluster of four tc stitches in the fourth chain stitch. Chain one and work another cluster of tc stitches in the same space. Then, you are just going to work a slip stitch into the last chain stitch, or the first one you did at the beginning of your work. Next, you will turn your work and in the same chain stitch you did the last two clusters, you are going to work two more clusters of tc stitches separated by chain one.

Then, you will skip three stitches and work a sc stitch in the fourth one. Skip another three stitches and work two clusters of tc stitches in the fourth one and separate them with chain one. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the last chain stitch and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends to make it easier later.

For the second round, you will choose a different color and join it at the middle, right at one of the ends of the beginning chain. Then, you will chain one and work a sc stitch in the same space. You will then chain five and work a cluster of unfinished tc stitches, just like you would normally do for a corner square. Of course, these stitches are back post stitches, just like in any other Bavarian crochet project.

Then, you will chain five again and work a sc stitch in the chain one space. Next, you get to the V shape that you are going to fill in while working in this round. You will do this by working two clusters of four tc stitches all together. So, you will chain five, gather loops from one cluster, and continue to gather loops from the other, so that in the end you will have nine loops on the hook. You will pull the yarn through all nine loops and chain five.

Then, you will work a sc stitch in the chain one space. Then, you will work another corner, just like you did at the beginning of this round. And then, you will work another corner. This is the difference between the square one and this one. In the square shaped Bavarian, you work four corners and finish them in the next round.

Here, you have one middle square that is done on the longer side of the rectangle. It doesn’t complicate the process if you already know how to work Bavarian crochet. I hope that after the first two projects, you feel confident enough to try this one too. So, basically, from now on, you just continue working around like you would normally.

You just track when you need to work a corner and when you need to fill in the V shapes. So, in the first round of a new color, you work one cluster of four tc stitches together and in the second round you will finish the other three clusters, all worked in the joining stitch of the first cluster. And when it comes to the middle squares, you first work two clusters all together and in the second round; you finish by working another two clusters in the stitch where you joined all nine loops.

Of course, you will separate the clusters in the second round with chain one and in between the square segments, you will be working sc stitches in the chain one space or in the second round, you will work them in the previous sc stitches. I hope you understood the explanation. If not, just recollect memories from the first two projects of this book and it will be much clear.

Second, we will learn how to work Bavarian triangle potholder. Basically, you will be working in the same manner as you did previously, but, again, the beginning itself is a bit different. First, you will make a slipknot and chain four. You will join the last chain to the first one with a slip stitch. Then, you will chain one and work a sc stitch into the ring.

Then, you will chain four and work four tc stitches together. Chain four and work a sc stitch into the ring. Repeat this two more times, so that you have three clusters of four tc stitches worked together. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the first sc stitch you did at the beginning of the round.

Then, you will work three clusters of four tc stitches into the join of the first tc cluster. You will separate the clusters with chain one. When you finish the first square, you will work a sc stitch into the sc stitch from previous round and work the second and the third square. As I already said, it is really simple if you know the basics of Bavarian crochet. When you finish the round, you will join in with the slip stitch and fasten off the yarn. Weave in the ends.

Join in the new color. You will join new color on any side of the triangle as long as you join it in the chain space after the second cluster that is made on that square. So, you will join the new color there and you’re going to chain one and work a sc stitch in the same space. Then, you will chain four and work a corner cluster. Finish the cluster with chain four and a sc stitch in the chain space.

Next, you are going to work half of the square. You will do it just like in any other Bavarian crochet project. You will chain four, work eight unfinished tc stitches around the back post and then pull the yarn through all nine loops. Finish the segment with chain four and a sc stitch in the chain one space. Then, work the corner cluster.

You will continue this way all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the sc stitch you did at the beginning of the round. For the second round of this color, you’re going to finish the squares. As you did previously, you’re going to work three clusters of tc stitches separated by chain one on the corners and two clusters of tc stitches separated by chain one on the halves of the squares. Finish the round, fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends.

Finally, for the third round, you’re going to join the next color and work around in two rounds, just like you normally would. Work the corners and the inner halves and in the second round of the third color, you are going to finish the squares. And that’s it! Pretty straightforward, isn’t it?

Chapter 4 – Bavarian Baby Boots

Now, these don’t necessarily need to be in baby size. You can make it in any size you’d like. You will just make more increases and work a bit longer bottom part if you need a bigger size and you’ll be good.

So, for a newborn size, you will make a slipknot and chain six. Then, you will skip the first chain stitch from the hook and work sc stitch in each of the chain stitches. When you get to the last chain stitch, you will work three sc stitches into that stitch. Turn around your work and continue working sc stitches across. Finish with two sc stitches in the last chain stitch and join the first one with a slip stitch. Then, you will continue working rounds of sc stitches, with increases on the sides in the first three rounds and then you can increase every now and then.

It works best if you have your model with you to try it on while you are still crocheting. I have made several baby booties over the years that were too small or too big. For that reason, it is best if you try them on while you’re still making them. You will continue working sc stitches until you get to the joint and then you will continue working in rows, from right to left and back so that you create the opening for the leg.

You will again work back and forth until you cover the entire foot. Then, you will close the bottom part of the sock by working through both sides. You will turn the sock inside out for this part so that it won’t be visible once it is finished. You will then fasten off the yarn. Then, you will turn the sock to the right side again and join the yarn at the opening. It really doesn’t matter where. You will then chain one and work a row of sc stitches all around the opening.

Now, if you want to make a bigger size, you will chain more stitches in the beginning and you may need to make more increases if the foot is a bit chubbier or less increases if it is thinner. Also, you will need to make more rows if you are making these for a bigger size. Then, after you have finished a round of sc stitches, you will start working your Bavarian stitches.

These will work on multiples of eight stitches plus one. However, if you have less than that, you can count less for each fan. Either way, be cautious that each of those has even number of stitches. If you want, you can also count in multiples of six stitches plus one and then work double crochet (dc) stitches instead of tc stitches. That can work too.

So, provided that you do have a clear number of stitches, you will do the following: you will chain one and work a sc stitch in the same space. Then, you will skip three stitches and work a cluster of four tc stitches in the fourth stitch. Then, you will chain one and work another cluster of tc stitches in the same space. Then, you will skip three more stitches and work a sc stitch in the fourth stitch. You will repeat this pattern all around the opening.

You will finish the round with a slip stitch into the sc stitch you did at the beginning of the round. Then, you can either fasten off the yarn and change color, or you can slip stitch to the chain one space on the peak and start your second round of Bavarian stitches from there. Either way, you will chain one and work a sc stitch in the chain one space. Then, you will chain four and work eight tc stitches together.

These eight stitches are worked in the back posts. Once you pull the yarn through all nine loops, you will chain four and work a sc stitch in the chain one space. Continue repeating this pattern all around. Finish the round with a slip stitch into the sc stitch from the beginning of the round. In the next round, you will finish the squares. You will do this by working a cluster of four tc stitches in the stitch where eight stitches are joined.

Then, you will chain one and work another cluster of four tc stitches and then work a sc stitch in the sc stitch from the previous round. Continue this round in the same manner and finish with a slip stitch. For the final round, you will once again, either change color or slip stitch until you reach the chain one at the peak.From there, you will again work on filling in the triangles as you did previously. Finish the round with a slip stitch and you’re done! You can then fasten off the yarn and weave in the ends.

P.S. Don’t forget to make one more!

Conclusion

So, you’ve come to the end of this book. I hope you have read it and completed at least some of the projects. I hope that the instructions were clear enough so that you could easily understand what you need to do at each stage.

As you could probably notice there are several rules that need to be followed and you’re good to go. You need to work your first round around the posts but from back. Then, you need to work the first round all together, either one cluster at the corners or two clusters on the sides of the project. Next, you will finish the squares in the second round by completing three clusters on the corners or two on the sides of the project. And that’s basically it!

Now, I would like to encourage you to try to incorporate this stitch into your other projects. Just like it was done with the baby booties. You can have the rest of the project plain, with little to no texture at all and then a pop of texture using the Bavarian crochet technique. What I think would look amazing is a blanket that is done in a simple stitch, like moss stitch or a similar one, and then two to three color changes of Bavarian crochet.

It would round up the entire blanket and it would look amazing. You could also include it in a vest pattern so that the lower part is done using this stitch pattern. It would be a wonderful detail that adds so much to the overall look of the item.

Thank you for reading, trying out patterns and recreating the items that are presented within this book. I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did. I wish you lots of successful projects.

Happy crocheting!